# Winterizing



## joesova (Apr 25, 2008)

This will be my first year winterizing my 23rs. Could someone share their routine and offer some advice on what to do.


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

Last winter I started with emptying the fresh water tank. I then used a air compressor to blow out the lines, then I added a winterizing kit to the water pump. After turning the water heater to bypass I pumped in two gallons of rv antifreeze into the water supply piping opening each fixture until the antifreeze comes out of the faucet on the hot and cold side. Don't forget to check the outside sink or shower (if your tt has them). You can pull out the battery if your in a freezing climate. Turn off the lp tanks and turn off the shore power. James


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## john7349 (Jan 13, 2008)

Speaking of winterizing, this is my first year also. I just want to know if a couple of inches of grey water and/or black water in the holding tanks would be OK during a freezing spell?







Comments?


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

john7349 said:


> Speaking of winterizing, this is my first year also. I just want to know if a couple of inches of grey water and/or black water in the holding tanks would be OK during a freezing spell?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That would depend on how cold it gets and for how long. Say it gos down to 30 at night for 4 hours you might be ok but if it went to -10 for 4 hours you would have a split tank. James


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

IMO, Don't risk it. A split tank would not be a lot of fun









My procedure is fist to drain everything (open all low point drains and fresh water tank drain). Next, blow out the lines with some compressed air (keep the pressure fairly low







). Now switch the WH bypass to bypass and leave the plug on the WH out. Now, with your low point drains closed, pump in the pink using a winterizing kit. This should fill your pump and all lines with the pink antifreeze (except for the WH). Run each faucet to ensure it is flowing pink (don't forget the toilet and outdoor kitchen). What goes down the drain should winterize the traps and tanks (assuming they were well drained). Dump a little pink into the fresh water tank in case it isn't completely empty. Any extra pink can just get dumped down the drains as added insurance. An OB shouldn't require more than 2 gallons.

After completing the water system, remove the batts, turn off propane/elect if applicable. Prop refrigerater open. I also add some dehumidifier packs to keep things dry. Check the roof for any resealing that needs to be done. Lock it up and come back after the winter's hibernation.


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

In theory, after you blow out the lines with air that there wouldn't be a need for the pink stuff in the lines?

I drain everything, blow out the lines and then put the pink stuff in the drains of the sinks and in the toilet bowl.
I keep the TT plugged in year round and if it gets too cold I have a small heater on a timer that runs for 4 hours a day, usually around sunrise, which is the coldest part of the day. I also keep dry-z-air in the TT as well.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

jasonrebecca said:


> In theory, after you blow out the lines with air that there wouldn't be a need for the pink stuff in the lines?


I think in the PNW, blowing out the lines is enough. If I was living in Michigan, where is gets REALLY REALLY cold, I'd prob do both.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

I'd agree. In the 30's, I'd blow out the lines. When it hits Zero, I like knowing that I have some pink in there.


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## Zymurgist (Apr 2, 2007)

Also if you have a tornado or quickie flush don't forget to blow out that water line as well.


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

Ah yes, the great white north!
Yeah, I put the pink stuff in the lines last year and tasted it for a couple of trips, so no more pink stuff for me.


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## OregonCampin (Mar 9, 2007)

Oregon_Camper said:


> In theory, after you blow out the lines with air that there wouldn't be a need for the pink stuff in the lines?


I think in the PNW, blowing out the lines is enough. If I was living in Michigan, where is gets REALLY REALLY cold, I'd prob do both.
[/quote]

X2.

We drain from the low point drains and then blow all the lines out with air. We do add a little pink stuff to the black & grey tanks to help protect those. We keep a space heater inside during the colder months with the cabinets open. If it is going to be REALLY cold for multiple days, we will run the OB heater to keep the underbelly above freezing.

Our problem is we use our trailer all winter so pulling the pink stuff through every couple weeks and then rinsing would be a pain.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

OREGONCAMPIN said:


> .....
> Our problem is we use our trailer all winter so pulling the pink stuff through every couple weeks and then rinsing would be a pain.


Ok, you all can stop rubbing it in!









I'll be winterizing next weekend...


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

I thought of a couple more things: 

Drain the water heater completely and leave the plug out. The tank will dry completely after a few days. Exercise the pressure relief valve (and again in the spring). Keeping the tank open all winter lets it air out and helps keep it "sweet." (I keep the plug in the kitchen sink - where I'll be sure to find it next spring!)
Don't forget to winterize the outdoor sink. Run pink stuff through those faucets, too. This one's easy to forget.
And after filling all lines, traps, etc. with pink stuff, open all the faucets. Even the pink stuff expands and forms slushy crystals, if it gets cold enough. Make sure it has some room to expand.
Remove all sheets, blankets, pillows, etc. Don't leave any more nesting material inside than you have to. Don't make it inviting to the little furry four-leggeds. Stuff steel wool in the power-cord door, and every other place that you think a mouse could enter. (We stuff all the linens, towels, etc. into plastic garbage bags and store them in our basement storage room for the winter.)
And remove all canned goods and foodstuffs that could attract critters that go scrounging for food in the cold months. (This gives you a chance to rotate out those cans of veggies, baked beans, etc. so they don't expire before you open them.)
Buy a box of regular "Bounce" dryer sheets and put one in every drawer, cabinet, corner, beds, etc. Mice don't like the strong scent - and hey, your trailer will smell GREAT next spring! (Original Scent Bounce - not April Fresh, or any other kind - they don't work.)
Buy or make a winterizing suction tube so that the pump can suck antifreeze directly from the jug, which ensures that the pump is filled with pink stuff, too. And while the pump is running and sucking up pink stuff, be sure to push IN the check valve on the city water connection, outside. Remove the screen and hold the button IN until pink stuff sprays out. Be sure to stand off to the side! (This one will bite you next spring if you forget!)
Put wooden boards beneath your tires when you finally park it for the winter. I've been told that concrete or gravel speed up dry rot and the boards insulate the tires from those cold surfaces. (Don't know if that's true or not, but we've had good luck with Duro tires on three different trailers in 11 years.) Cover the tires, also. The sun shining on them every day will also speed up the deterioration of the rubber. (I keep 'em covered year round.)
We've done all this for 11 years (including with our pop-ups) and we've never had a problem in the spring with leaks or broken lines. No critters.

Our dealership has some neat videos with tips on this. Here's the link: Pontiac RV Service

The video on winterizing is about 10 minutes long, but worth watching if you haven't done it before - or even if you have.

Hope this helps!

Mike


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## OregonCampin (Mar 9, 2007)

Nathan said:


> .....
> Our problem is we use our trailer all winter so pulling the pink stuff through every couple weeks and then rinsing would be a pain.


Ok, you all can stop rubbing it in!









I'll be winterizing next weekend...








[/quote]

You have been invited to the Pacific Northwest many times... skip the winterization and head west!









Oh - and you do have to be just a little crazy to camp here all winter.... it rains (and rains) a lot and it can get pretty chilly over night - nothing like waking up to every thing coated in ice and looking at the temp realizing it is 21 degrees... and did I mention the rain????


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

OREGONCAMPIN said:


> Oh - and you do have to be just a little crazy to camp here all winter.... it rains (and rains) a lot and it can get pretty chilly over night - nothing like waking up to every thing coated in ice and looking at the temp realizing it is 21 degrees... and did I mention the rain????


...and when the "rain" stops and it is just 'sprinkles" we head out riding in the mud...


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## OregonCampin (Mar 9, 2007)

Oregon_Camper said:


> ...and when the "rain" stops and it is just 'sprinkles" we head out riding in the mud...


Or the wet sand, which is where we spend most of our time riding in the winter....


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## Joe 30450 (Oct 13, 2008)

Thank you Scoutr2

The video of pontiac RV is good.

I got a question, probably sounds stupid but I dont want to broke anything.

The 2 lines outside with a cap , just beside the valve of the fresh water tank,. I tried to pull of the cap but there is a resistance. I dont want to broke it.

Is there a special thing to do to pull of the 2 caps (i mean push, screw or unscrew)

Thanks


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Joe 30450 said:


> Thank you Scoutr2
> 
> The video of pontiac RV is good.
> 
> ...


I think you are refering to the "Low Point Drain Lines." Those caps should unscrew. I had to use a pair of channel-lock pliers on them the first time, but I only tighten by hand now, and they don't leak. I have not winterized yet, as there may still be one more opportunity to go camping - depending on my schedule and the weather. But just in case, I drained the hot water heater, removed those caps that you refer to, and then opened up every hot and cold faucet on the trailer. That will drain all the lines, through those low point drains.

In theory, that should ensure that I won't get any damage due to a cold snap. The lines are open and pretty much drained. (I keep the caps and the water heater plug in the kitchen sink, where I'll be sure to find them when needed.) Any water that may remain has plenty of room to expand without damaging anything.

Not sure of the location of your low point drain lines - mine are beside the gas connection for the outside stove. Perhaps someone with your model of trailer can confirm my suspicions - but there are only a couple lines that stick out below the underbelly - and that should be them.

Hope this clears that up.

Mike


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## Beaner242 (Jun 25, 2007)

Don't forget to leave the stabilizer jacks up in case you have a tire go flat.


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