# Equal-I-Zer Hitch - Model Variations?



## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

So, yesterday I purchased our new to us 2007 Keystone Outback 21RS. What came with the trailer was a 1000lb / 10000lb Equal-i-zer hitch. Now I had a dealer do an inspection of the trailer and verify my brake controller was working. When they pulled the weight distribution hitch out of the trailer they instantly started telling me how this one is junk, and that I should look into a 600 / 6000 or 800 / 8000 equal-i-zer hitch. The one they pulled out was covered up with cloth etc so they could really only see the receiver end of it.

Now when I brought it home and took off the cloth that was wrapped around it, it stated 1000 / 10000 Equal-i-zer hitch. Were these guys blowing smoke up my you know what trying to get me to purchase a new setup from them? They said the one I had was difficult to use. It looks almost identical to the one that is on the manufacturers website. If need be I can snap a few pictures, but I'm heading out in a few.

Were there different model variations of the Equalizer? Should I consider getting a different one if we decide to do long road trips? Currently pulled it without weight distribution and barely felt it behind my truck, had semi's beside me and running opposite directions when I towed it to it's winter home. My gut is saying save the money and this spring just configure that one and call it good. Your thoughts?


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

akjason said:


> So, yesterday I purchased our new to us 2007 Keystone Outback 21RS. What came with the trailer was a 1000lb / 10000lb Equal-i-zer hitch. Now I had a dealer do an inspection of the trailer and verify my brake controller was working. When they pulled the weight distribution hitch out of the trailer they instantly started telling me how this one is junk, and that I should look into a 600 / 6000 or 800 / 8000 equal-i-zer hitch. The one they pulled out was covered up with cloth etc so they could really only see the receiver end of it.
> 
> Now when I brought it home and took off the cloth that was wrapped around it, it stated 1000 / 10000 Equal-i-zer hitch. Were these guys blowing smoke up my you know what trying to get me to purchase a new setup from them? They said the one I had was difficult to use. It looks almost identical to the one that is on the manufacturers website. If need be I can snap a few pictures, but I'm heading out in a few.
> 
> Were there different model variations of the Equalizer? Should I consider getting a different one if we decide to do long road trips? Currently pulled it without weight distribution and barely felt it behind my truck, had semi's beside me and running opposite directions when I towed it to it's winter home. My gut is saying save the money and this spring just configure that one and call it good. Your thoughts?


Configure the one you have. It is overkill for that trailer, but it will work. If they were trying to sell you another Equalizer hitch, they were going to sell you the same thing in a lower weight rating. You probably could get away with the 600/6000 but you can make do with the 1000/10000.

I cannot comment on how to set that particular hitch up as I use the Reese Dual Cam in a 1200/12000 setup. Both the Equalizer and Reese are great setups that are cost efficient.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

outback loft said:


> So, yesterday I purchased our new to us 2007 Keystone Outback 21RS. What came with the trailer was a 1000lb / 10000lb Equal-i-zer hitch. Now I had a dealer do an inspection of the trailer and verify my brake controller was working. When they pulled the weight distribution hitch out of the trailer they instantly started telling me how this one is junk, and that I should look into a 600 / 6000 or 800 / 8000 equal-i-zer hitch. The one they pulled out was covered up with cloth etc so they could really only see the receiver end of it.
> 
> Now when I brought it home and took off the cloth that was wrapped around it, it stated 1000 / 10000 Equal-i-zer hitch. Were these guys blowing smoke up my you know what trying to get me to purchase a new setup from them? They said the one I had was difficult to use. It looks almost identical to the one that is on the manufacturers website. If need be I can snap a few pictures, but I'm heading out in a few.
> 
> Were there different model variations of the Equalizer? Should I consider getting a different one if we decide to do long road trips? Currently pulled it without weight distribution and barely felt it behind my truck, had semi's beside me and running opposite directions when I towed it to it's winter home. My gut is saying save the money and this spring just configure that one and call it good. Your thoughts?


Configure the one you have. It is overkill for that trailer, but it will work. If they were trying to sell you another Equalizer hitch, they were going to sell you the same thing in a lower weight rating. You probably could get away with the 600/6000 but you can make do with the 1000/10000.

I cannot comment on how to set that particular hitch up as I use the Reese Dual Cam in a 1200/12000 setup. Both the Equalizer and Reese are great setups that are cost efficient.
[/quote]
Thanks for the follow-up!

I was thinking that it was just the weight differences, I figured the 1000/10000 setup was over kill and would tighten up the ride a bit more. But it's paid for and came with the trailer so couldn't figure out why they would want me to spend 500 bucks on a new setup if I had a perfectly good one. They were talking about it as if it wasn't the Equal-i-zer hitch. So I just didn't know if there was issues with models from say three to four years ago.


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

Well it is the weight differences that are different. The 21rs isn't that heavy and the 1000/10000 will do fine.

I have a set of 600 pound bars that I had used for my 27L when I first got it and they worked, but they were maxed out. I stepped up to the 1200 pound bars because I got them from a friend who had an extra set.


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## W5CI (Apr 21, 2009)

The 1000/10000 hitch that you have will be fine, there is two different versions of the Equalzer hitches, one is a 4 point the other is a 2 point that gives weight dist only, the differ is in the way that the load bars hook to the receiver hitch. the 4 point has pins that secure the weight bars, the 2 point bars just roll into the hitch. I didnt know the difference myself until i bought a new 4 point system and saw what i had ver what i had previously. Good luck with your New Outback, the Hitch you have will work just fine.


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## Dub (Dec 8, 2008)

You're fine as the hitch is designed for up to 1000/10000. I use the 12K version. If it ever breaks when you are out on the road, good luck getting any support from Equalizer aka Progress Manufacturing. My experience with them makes me want to switch to Reese ASAP.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Dub said:


> You're fine as the hitch is designed for up to 1000/10000. I use the 12K version. If it ever breaks when you are out on the road, good luck getting any support from Equalizer aka Progress Manufacturing. My experience with them makes me want to switch to Reese ASAP.


Good to know, it does state that it is a 4-point sway system. I'll keep my 2 5/16 ball and receiver in the trailer in case the weight distribution hitch ever goes out. Kinda upset me because it was late and the only place I could get a ball + receiver for the outback charged me about 80 bucks. I could have just slapped that Equalizer on and called it good. Live and learn I suppose. Thanks again for the help guys, i'll wait till spring then play with it.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

I have the 1000/10000 Equalizer, and am totally happy with it. It's simple to hook up each time we travel, and there aren't any backing restrictions.

You can download the manual from the manufacturers website from this link Manuals

Take the time to follow the setup instructions, and you'll be good to go.


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## john7349 (Jan 13, 2008)

If the hitch says "4-point sway control", then you have the true "Equal-i-zer" brand. IMHO, the 1000lb bars are perfect for your 21RS. Consider the Salesman greedy...


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

The Equal-i-zer you have will work fine, but might provide a little stiffer ride. On the up side, though, you will not have to raise the trailer tongue very high to get the bars off the L-brackets. Installation is fairly easy, if you have a decent set of tools. You should use a torque wrench to achieve sufficient torque on all the bolts and nuts without stretching or overly tensioning some.

For installation instructions, download them here: Equal-i-zer Hitch Installation Instructions

You'll need a level area to do the installation (a hard surface - maybe a school parking lot on a weekend). I removed my old hitch and installed our Equal-i-zer in about 4 hours, right in front of my house (same place it's sitting in my signature photo below). And I took my time. It took a couple short trips to make the final adjustments, but now the Outback tows like a dream!

Just one tip - when done setting up, your trailer should sit level, but seldom is it perfect. To correct that, you must raise or lower the ball on the shank. If you must have your trailer a little out-of-level from front to rear, "tongue low" is better than "tongue high."

Just follow the instructions and check everything twice. Let us know how it turns out.









Mike


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Scoutr2 said:


> The Equal-i-zer you have will work fine, but might provide a little stiffer ride. On the up side, though, you will not have to raise the trailer tongue very high to get the bars off the L-brackets. Installation is fairly easy, if you have a decent set of tools. You should use a torque wrench to achieve sufficient torque on all the bolts and nuts without stretching or overly tensioning some.
> 
> For installation instructions, download them here: Equal-i-zer Hitch Installation Instructions
> 
> ...


Thank you for the great information! Currently it is parked for the winter, and is sitting for the next few months. However our first trip is already booked for the Russian River up here for Memorial Weekend. Thinking April i'll get it out of storage and get the hitch set up for the truck. After it's configured for your truck how hard is it to hook up after that? Just a matter of putting it on the hitch and then slapping the bars up to the trailer?


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

akjason said:


> After it's configured for your truck how hard is it to hook up after that? Just a matter of putting it on the hitch and then slapping the bars up to the trailer?


It's quite simple to hook up for each outing. As you said, just put it on the hitch and then "slap on" the bars. They install with a pin at the head end, and an "L" bracket and clip at the trailer end.

An electric tongue jack makes the job a breeze. Just lock the coupler, then raise the tongue until you can slide the bars into place. No straining and no need to use the pry bar.

The easy hookup was what sold me on the equalizer, over other brands.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

duggy said:


> After it's configured for your truck how hard is it to hook up after that? Just a matter of putting it on the hitch and then slapping the bars up to the trailer?


It's quite simple to hook up for each outing. As you said, just put it on the hitch and then "slap on" the bars. They install with a pin at the head end, and an "L" bracket and clip at the trailer end.

An electric tongue jack makes the job a breeze. Just lock the coupler, then raise the tongue until you can slide the bars into place. No straining and no need to use the pry bar.

The easy hookup was what sold me on the equalizer, over other brands.
[/quote]

X2. I got an electric tongue jack and I just raise the whole trailer tongue and truck rear until the bars come up enough to easily slide them on the L-brackets. Then I put on the L-pin clips (to capture the bars) and lower the tongue until the jack is all the way up. When unhitching, just reverse the process. Easy as pie! No sweating! No cussin'! No straining on levers.

Mike


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

I have the same set up you do. Equalizer 1000/1000 and a 2008 21RS. With my Barker VIP3000 power jack I can't imagine a better combination.


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## gonewild (Mar 13, 2009)

Dub said:


> You're fine as the hitch is designed for up to 1000/10000. I use the 12K version. If it ever breaks when you are out on the road, good luck getting any support from Equalizer aka Progress Manufacturing. My experience with them makes me want to switch to Reese ASAP.


I am not posting this to create an argument, but feel that I must share my experience with Equalizer. Last summer, I bent the L-bracket holding the load bar while backing up a hill at a severe angle (probably my fault). I called Equalizer and explained my situation that I was no where close to home. They asked where I was traveling to next and overnighted the parts to the next campground *FREE OF CHARGE*! That is what I consider good product support.

I also wanted to note that I have the 10,000lb version with the 1000lb bars with a 210Rs and it works fine. The 210Rs' tongue weight is much greater than the posted dry weight when loaded for a summer long trip (two propane tanks, dual batteries, bikes, barbeque, clothes, food, ....)

Good Luck!


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## Dub (Dec 8, 2008)

gonewild said:


> You're fine as the hitch is designed for up to 1000/10000. I use the 12K version. If it ever breaks when you are out on the road, good luck getting any support from Equalizer aka Progress Manufacturing. My experience with them makes me want to switch to Reese ASAP.


I am not posting this to create an argument, but feel that I must share my experience with Equalizer. Last summer, I bent the L-bracket holding the load bar while backing up a hill at a severe angle (probably my fault). I called Equalizer and explained my situation that I was no where close to home. They asked where I was traveling to next and overnighted the parts to the next campground *FREE OF CHARGE*! That is what I consider good product support.

I also wanted to note that I have the 10,000lb version with the 1000lb bars with a 210Rs and it works fine. The 210Rs' tongue weight is much greater than the posted dry weight when loaded for a summer long trip (two propane tanks, dual batteries, bikes, barbeque, clothes, food, ....)

Good Luck!
[/quote]

Mine was the exact opposite. 500 miles from home I called them up after the same bracket snapped. They agreed to replace it but made me pay shipping so I paid 2nd day air since I was going to be there a week. It didn't show up, called and found out that Dan at Progress accidentally shipped it to my home address when he specifically knew I was on vacation, not at home, and gave him the CG address. After arguing with me he shipped another via ground which did not get to me, I had to drive 3 hours to the nearest RV dealer that sold Equalizer and then 3 hours back on my vacation to get it fixed. I promised Dan I would tell everyone about my experience for not overnighting the part to me when they admitted they screwed up. I feel like he stole a day of my vacation from me. That is what I call extremely crappy customer support. If you search the web for more broken equalizer stories you'll see that my situation is the norm and yours is the exception. One guy had his entire hitch twist off and they said they'd send a replacement and it never showed up.


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## gonewild (Mar 13, 2009)

I guess it all depends on who answers the phone when you call























Like I said,"I did not post my experience to argue." Neither did I attempt to contradict other's experiences, I just wanted to share my own. Whether my experience was the norm or exception, I was satisfied.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

UPDATE : Hey guys I didn't want to start a new topic but I have come into a question.

I recently took out the hitch and decided to use PB Blaster to clean it up and grease needed locations, however I noticed something. My shank coming off of the hitch is not adjustable. It only appears to have two holes on it for the two bolts that hold on the receiver ball. Below is a picture of what is being shown off of a youtube video on proper install / adjustments. My shank does not look like this, there is no upwards or downwards play. Will this hitch still work without that adjustment?


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

It sounds like you may not have the original Equalizer shank. Can you post a picture of what you have? Unless it fits properly, is rated high enough, and sets the ball at the right height, you will have to get the proper shank. I know they can be bought separately.


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## Dub (Dec 8, 2008)

My shank looks like the one in the video...the extra holes allow for you to adjust it up and down based on the amount of weight distribution and push on your suspension. Without the holes you may not be able to adjust it correctly but there may be a chance you have the right height.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Dub said:


> My shank looks like the one in the video...the extra holes allow for you to adjust it up and down based on the amount of weight distribution and push on your suspension. Without the holes you may not be able to adjust it correctly but there may be a chance you have the right height.


Well, I took the trailer out of my parents location and pulled it over to my storage unit. However I did put in the weight distribution hitch and actually when I put the bars on and locked everything up visually it looked like there was zero sag in my truck. My father was watching as I put the bars on and instantly it looked like the trailer and truck were perfectly level. So maybe I might have got lucky and the previous owner was towing the outback with a half ton F150...?

I'll snap a picture of it when I go to the storage yard today, luckily the storage place is two blocks from my house rather than 30 minutes way now.

Thanks for the info guys, i'll take measurements when I hitch up next time to verify I have proper weight distribution. But when I hooked it up to my other standard hitch my rear dropped about 3-4" and with the Equal-i-zer it brought it up nicely.

Thanks again guys! Always a great source of info!

Jason


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

akjason said:


> My shank looks like the one in the video...the extra holes allow for you to adjust it up and down based on the amount of weight distribution and push on your suspension. Without the holes you may not be able to adjust it correctly but there may be a chance you have the right height.


Well, I took the trailer out of my parents location and pulled it over to my storage unit. However I did put in the weight distribution hitch and actually when I put the bars on and locked everything up visually it looked like there was zero sag in my truck. My father was watching as I put the bars on and instantly it looked like the trailer and truck were perfectly level. So maybe I might have got lucky and the previous owner was towing the outback with a half ton F150...?

I'll snap a picture of it when I go to the storage yard today, luckily the storage place is two blocks from my house rather than 30 minutes way now.

Thanks for the info guys, i'll take measurements when I hitch up next time to verify I have proper weight distribution. But when I hooked it up to my other standard hitch my rear dropped about 3-4" and with the Equal-i-zer it brought it up nicely.

New question though, while towing the trailer I did notice with my windows rolled down a burning rubber smell in my truck. When I rolled up the windows the smell went away, I wasn't sure if this was normal. Breaks were not locked up, didn't know if this was some sort of transfer case venting under load or something that I normally wouldn't smell while not towing. Any info would be appreciated, I did search here along with rv.net and google with very few results. I did order up a ScanGauge, which i'll configure to monitor Transmission temp, and whatever else for towing.

Thanks again guys! Always a great source of info!

Jason
[/quote]


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

gonewild said:


> I guess it all depends on who answers the phone when you call
> 
> 
> 
> ...


X2 -- I'm on my second Equal-I-Zer hitch and have always had positive experiences when contacting them with questions or help. Hopefully, the person who provided the poor support will learn to do a better job.


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## Dub (Dec 8, 2008)

akjason said:


> I guess it all depends on who answers the phone when you call
> 
> 
> 
> ...


X2 -- I'm on my second Equal-I-Zer hitch and have always had positive experiences when contacting them with questions or help. Hopefully, the person who provided the poor support will learn to do a better job.
[/quote]

Dan was the CSR, with all the stink I've made about the issue online I'm sure he's been in trouble for it and being retrained, but nevertheless after charging me shipping and admitting their screwup they never did anything to make it right, no calls, no emails, nothing and that bugs me even more about their product support. I saved all the emails from him too where he admits it was his/their screwup but offers no help. If I can steer a few people away from buying their product it will have been worth it.


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## Dub (Dec 8, 2008)

Meant to attach this photo of the bent bracket. Holman installed mine and they are factory trained. Progress Manufacturing's first excuse was that it was installed wrong, I told them that they'd better go back to the dealers they've factory trained and retest them. This was after it had been towed to Michigan and Florida once...poor product, poorer customer service.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

This is the picture of the hitch below, kinda bad pic's they were taken with the my iphone. Also have you guys had a burning rubber smell while towing? I smelt it with my window down sitting in traffic, didn't know if this is normal while towing. No brakes were engaged or rubbing, exhaust pipe doesn't come near the spare tire etc. I believe it was coming from my truck under the engine bay.


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## Dub (Dec 8, 2008)

When the WDH is hooked up, it's not pushing down too far on your suspension and the wheels are rubbing...maybe you have oversized tires? Trailer brakes will smoke pretty fast if one is locked on, you'll know it within a few miles.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Dub said:


> When the WDH is hooked up, it's not pushing down too far on your suspension and the wheels are rubbing...maybe you have oversized tires? Trailer brakes will smoke pretty fast if one is locked on, you'll know it within a few miles.


Well, I towed it to the storage unit with my normal hitch since I needed longer chains with the WDH. I have standard size tires, just Bridgestone Dual AT Revo Range E tires. I didn't hear / see any tires locked up. I contacted the dealer I purchased the truck from, they are thinking it's my rear differential venting. I went ahead tonight and drained the fluid and swapped it out with Royal Purple Synthetic. Prior owner (I purchased used 8 months ago) had towed a trailer with it before me. The differential fluid was black, new stuff is nice and purple. I did notice that the smell seemed pretty familiar to the "burning rubber" smell I had from earlier.

The technician was also telling me that for trucks that tow he would recommend swapping the differential fluid once a year just as a maintenance. Otherwise, I ordered up a ScanGuage which will be here in a week or so to monitor my Transmission temps. I plan on hooking up the WDH tomorrow and taking the trailer out for a little drive to see if I can pin point the smell. I would think my truck could handle it perfectly fine since it has the tow package, transmission cooler, oil cooler, 3.73 rear end etc.

Ugh! There are a ton of 2005-2006 F250 6.0, crew cab, XLT's for about 26k up here.. if only that engine didn't have issues I would trade this thing in and get a real towing truck and call it good!


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