# Winterizing/ Air Compressor



## mom30075 (Jun 6, 2005)

I'm tired of winterizing. I've done it 3 times, will probably do it 3 more times before Spring due to winter trips.
I live in Atlanta, GA area so we typically only go below freezing at night and then warm up during the day. Many days we don't even hit freezing.

I currently bypass the water heater and winterize w/ Antifreeze. In the Outback manual there was listed an option to blow out the pipes w/o using antifreeze.

I don't have an air compressor and don't need one for anything else. However it seems this might be easier since we go out so often during the winter. Is there a small compressor, not too expensive for use just for winterizing. Hate to spend alot of money on something I only use for winterizing. I do have a small 12v car compressor for tires, but i understand you are not suppose to use those?? I understand the amount of pressure is important???

Feedback appreciated.


----------



## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

I blew out mine before I put in the anti-freeze and used a small pancake compressor that I got at a clearnance store a couple of years ago. There is a adapter that screws onto the city water connection that has a tire stem on it. I set the compressor not to go over 40 psi and had my father in law open each water spigot starting with the one the farthest away from the city water connection. It took about 15 mins to do the whole camper that way.

The compressor can be bought for less than $100 if you look around and catch them on sale.

I don't know if it would be enough of winterizing for you area or not.

Gary


----------



## GlenninTexas (Aug 11, 2004)

I bought a couple of air compressors for Christmans presents at Ace Hardware for $59.00 apiece. They were 1 gallon resoviour pancake style, capable of over a 100 psi. Runs an 110v ac. I also saw them advertised at Tractor Supply and Home Depot.

This would probably be perfect for you.

Regards, Glenn


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Air compressors as a means to winterize will take just as long as pumping a gallon of pink stuff into the lines.

That said I always blow out the lines before I pump in the antifreeze.

Considering your location, I lived in Rex (near Stockbridge) for 10 years, I know that it does get cold enough to freeze but it does not typically stay cold enough for long enough to really do damage.

As an alternate to blowing out the lines you can do the reverse. Suck them out. Do you have a shop vac?? If you do then you can do the following.

Disconnect the city water connection down stream of the water pump. This allows easy air intake into the plumbing. Then go to each faucet and hold the hose over the spigot and open the valves. You will still need to have the HWH in bypass and the drain plug removed to drain the HWH and when you are done vacuuming out the water system. Remove the low point drains and you are as dry or drier then just blowing out the line.

Using a shop vac also prevent the introduction of oil or other contamination from the air compressor.


----------



## mom30075 (Jun 6, 2005)

Thanks for the feedback. If it won't save me any time then maybe i'll stick to the pink stuff. I'll check at Ace and Home Depot.

Now that I think about it, the biggest pain is draining the hot water heater (getting the plug out)


----------



## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

I winter camp also and I blow out my lines - compressor from Sears for under 100 dollars. I made my own adapter from a hose and an airgun - just pull the trigger. I plan to make one that will reach into the TT so I'll be able to do the job myself. Currently DW stands outside and pulls the trigger while I open faucets. Takes under ten minutes.


----------



## h2oman (Nov 17, 2005)

What's all this winterizing stuf????????????


----------



## Steelhead (Nov 14, 2005)

[
Now that I think about it, the biggest pain is draining the hot water heater (getting the plug out)
[snapback]77196[/snapback]​[/quote]

May I suggest that you replace the drain plug in you hot water heater with an auto radiator type pet cock drain vavle. you can get one at most auto supply stores. you may have to use a reducing bushing (pipe fitting) to get the valve to fit the water heater threads. Then you can just open the pet cock drain and the pressure relief valve to drain the heater. quick and easy with no more wear and tear on the pipe threads at the water heater drain. just be sure to use brass fittings to do the job.

sunny

Dallas


----------



## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

h2oman...thats Ghosty s line









Just what we need, another one in warm climate all year









John


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> As an alternate to blowing out the lines you can do the reverse. Suck them out. Do you have a shop vac?? If you do then you can do the following.
> 
> Disconnect the city water connection down stream of the water pump. This allows easy air intake into the plumbing. Then go to each faucet and hold the hose over the spigot and open the valves. You will still need to have the HWH in bypass and the drain plug removed to drain the HWH and when you are done vacuuming out the water system. Remove the low point drains and you are as dry or drier then just blowing out the line.
> 
> ...


Interesting concept Andy!









I had not heard that one before. We should probably be clear that you would want to use a Wet/Dry shop vac for this operation!









Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Interesting I never heard of that one Andy

Don


----------



## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

h2oman said:


> What's all this winterizing stuf????????????
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Actually winterization for us is having to close the windows at night when it drops below 65...


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

PDX_Doug said:


> CamperAndy said:
> 
> 
> > As an alternate to blowing out the lines you can do the reverse. Suck them out. Do you have a shop vac?? If you do then you can do the following.
> ...


Always looking for alternatives. He said he did not want to buy a compressor just for this but he may have a shop vac and it will work. I used this to clean out some conduit that was plugged and I did not have a fish tape to push it clear or a compressor to blow it out.

Also you don't need to worry about blowing any fittings apart.


----------



## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

I have done that to a copper line in my house to get water out so I can solder, never gave it a thought to use it on the camper. Definitly another option









John


----------



## h2oman (Nov 17, 2005)

I couldn't wear my sandals this morning because it was so cold.


----------



## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Last winter I was to lazy to get the air hose out 
So I used a hand pump for a bike cycle tire
Don't take to long with it but it did the job

Don


----------



## nascarcamper (Jan 27, 2005)

I blow mine out before I use the antifreeze. I don't think you'll get it all out with the air compressor or shop vac. Most will come out but the rest will pool up in a low point somewhere and knowing Keystone that's not where the low point drain is.


----------



## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

tdvffjohn said:


> h2oman...thats Ghosty s line
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Don't worry, in July, they will be asking "How do I 'summerize' my camper to keep the roof and all plastic contents from melting"


----------



## Huskytracks (Apr 18, 2005)

> Thanks for the feedback. If it won't save me any time then maybe i'll stick to the pink stuff. I'll check at Ace and Home Depot.
> 
> Now that I think about it, the biggest pain is draining the hot water heater (getting the plug out)


Mine came with a spring loaded drain valve, mabe you can buy one at your local dealer and retrofit.


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

All this air compressor/shop vac talk has got me thinking the "pink stuff" is soooo easy.

Oregon has mild winters, so I don't have to worry as much as you guys in the colder parts of the country.


----------



## jscotb (Apr 10, 2004)

Why put antifreeze in if you have just blown out all the water with air? You have to have enought collect to expand the line 2-3 times its normal size to bust it. A little sitting in the lines will not do this.


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

jscotb said:


> Why put antifreeze in if you have just blown out all the water with air? You have to have enought collect to expand the line 2-3 times its normal size to bust it. A little sitting in the lines will not do this.
> [snapback]80938[/snapback]​


It is not the PEX tubing that is going to break but the connectors. They can not take the expansion.


----------



## Sasha (Apr 13, 2004)

I actually blow mine out before winterizing, basically to get the water out of the city water connection. I installed a water pump converter to pump the antifreeze after having to winterize for the third time, and was SO glad that I did. Took less then 2 gallons and was done in less then 10 minutes. After having several connections break last winter, I now take no chances.


----------



## nascarcamper (Jan 27, 2005)

Bottom line the pink stuff is cheap insurance and it doesn't take long to do it.


----------



## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

Huskytracks said:


> Mine came with a spring loaded drain valve, mabe you can buy one at your local dealer and retrofit.
> [snapback]77387[/snapback]​


Are you sure that isn't the spring loaded PT (pressure-temperature) valve you're talking about? If you have a spring loaded drain valve, you have the only Outback so equipped. The PT valve is located at the top of the water heater and the drain plug is at the bottom. Opening the PT valve will not drain the tank.

Unless you know for certain that you do have the arrangement you mentioned, if I were you I'd get out my owner's manual and look at my water heater again. I hope you are correct and you don't have a frozen water heater.









Typically, Outbacks are built with a white nylon-plastic drain plug having a hex head. I myself have worked at fitting some sort of valve. Because of close quarters, the only thing I got to fit is a (previously-mentioned) brass petcock that are used to drain automotive radiators.

Bill


----------



## luv2rv (Jun 21, 2004)

I actually use a small compressor for tire inflation with the adapter that screws onto the water connection. Let a bit of pressure build then Open one tap at a time and let it run until its just air blowing then move on to the next faucet. Avoid going beyond 40psi or you may blow something apart.

Ensure that you have drained and bypassed your hot water heater or you'll be waiting awhile for the pressure to build.

I also usually add pink to all drains to push out water.

Takes 15mins and your done.

Wayne


----------

