# Inverter Electrical Outlets



## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

We do alot of dry camping and use an inverter to run things like the TV, DVD player, computer, etc. We have a 25RSS and I installed the inverter in the cabinet under the stove since it was right next to the DC converter. This minimizes the DC cable run to about 12 inches. Below is the inverter installation:

Inverter installed under stove.









The inverter connection to the DC converter.









I use a modified bin to cover the inverter and protect it from stuff falling on it in the cabinet. The bin is has a mesh construction to allow ventilation of the inverter.


















I eventually got sick of running extension cords to the inverter every time I wanted to use the computer or the TV. So I decided to install some inverter outlets in areas were we could use them. I used a black outlet to signify power is from the inverter. I expanded the existing outlet box in the kitchen and added an inverter outlet. I also powered one of the outlets on the exterior of the trailer from the inverter (not shown). These were pretty easy to install since the cable runs were inside the cabinets and I had great access.









I also wanted an outlet in the bunk area for the kids TV and DVD player. A bit tougher to get inverter power over to this end of the trailer. The only place I could really install the power outlet was on the exterior wall. Not easy to get power to this location since you are now outside the cabinets and have no access. Here is the location.









To get power to the outlet, I ran the power cord inside the cabinets and through the fridge compartment. This got me to the cabinet wall right next to the outlet, six inches away!! To get the wire to the outlet box, I drilled a hole inside the cabinet in the wall and used a hack saw blade and fishing tape to cut a channel in the insulation. Tough to explain, maybe this picture will help. The diagonal wire in the picture is the fish tape I used to cut the channel in the insulation to allow access to the outlet box..









Here is the installed outlet.









WOOHOO!!! No more extension cords for me!!

DAN


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

Having the separate outlets for the inverter is a nice thing. I have mine wired in to most of the outlets in the trailer. I have the Xantrex pro1000 which has an automatic transfer switch. I leave it on all the time, and when I switch from generator to battery nothing shuts off. The only things I don't have running off the inverter are the refrigerator, the a/c and the gfi outlets. I do however have the microwave hooked into it and it is nice to be able to use that at times.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

outback loft said:


> Having the separate outlets for the inverter is a nice thing. I have mine wired in to most of the outlets in the trailer. I have the Xantrex pro1000 which has an automatic transfer switch. I leave it on all the time, and when I switch from generator to battery nothing shuts off. The only things I don't have running off the inverter are the refrigerator, the a/c and the gfi outlets. I do however have the microwave hooked into it and it is nice to be able to use that at times.


Transfer switch would be nice!! I went for the poor man's version!!







A few hours or work and a a few feet of cable!!

Curious, I assume the inverter is always driving the outlets, even when you have a power connection? So it is almost like a UPS system?

DAN


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## Dan Borer (Feb 6, 2009)

We do some dry camping too and I have given thought as to how to get inverter power to my outlets too. While I haven't purchased the desired inverter yet, I did do a dry run to test my theory with my 750 watt inverter. What I came up with powers all of the outlets where one would usually plug in the TV, DVR or other entertainment device but not the outlets for high power devices such as the water heater, microwave or A/C.

I don't have my trailer here so I may not have all the details correct since I am doing this from memory, but if you open up your electrical panel you will find your AC breakers. In looking at the labels on the breakers you'll find one for the A/C, one for the water heater, one for the microwave, one for the recept/con and possibly one more. The one that drew my interest is the one labelled 'recept/con' for recepticals and converter. I pull out the converter and pull the cover off to access the breakers from the back side and find two wires on the output side of the 'recept/con' breaker, one to the converter and one to the recepticals. I remove the line to the recepticals and tighten the screw to secure the line to the converter.

Next step was to tap the inverter input lines to the 12V lines into the electrical panel for power to the inverter. I connect the inverter output neutral to the neutral block behind the converter cover and the hot to the previously disconnected line for the recepticals. Flip on the inverter switch and power is now flowing to all the recepticals throughout the trailer that were controlled by the 'recept/con' breaker. The high current circuits with their own breakers are still without current.

I then plug in the shore power to power up the high current circuits, including the converter. With the inverter off the recepticals are dead because they have been removed from the circuit. Flip on the inverter and everything is powered up. The inverter is now has indefinite run time because it is running off the batteries that are being charged by the converter/charger.

Next step for me is to get an appropriate inverter and permanently hard-wire everything to provide proper circuit protection.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Dan Borer said:


> We do some dry camping too and I have given thought as to how to get inverter power to my outlets too. While I haven't purchased the desired inverter yet, I did do a dry run to test my theory with my 750 watt inverter. What I came up with powers all of the outlets where one would usually plug in the TV, DVR or other entertainment device but not the outlets for high power devices such as the water heater, microwave or A/C.
> 
> I don't have my trailer here so I may not have all the details correct since I am doing this from memory, but if you open up your electrical panel you will find your AC breakers. In looking at the labels on the breakers you'll find one for the A/C, one for the water heater, one for the microwave, one for the recept/con and possibly one more. The one that drew my interest is the one labelled 'recept/con' for recepticals and converter. I pull out the converter and pull the cover off to access the breakers from the back side and find two wires on the output side of the 'recept/con' breaker, one to the converter and one to the recepticals. I remove the line to the recepticals and tighten the screw to secure the line to the converter.
> 
> ...


The issue is that you will need a transfer switch or a very large inverter to make what you describe work. A very large inverter (3000W) is required to be able to power the outlets when you need to run things like the coffee maker, ceramic heaters, vacuum cleaners, etc, even when you have a land line connection. This is the reason I used separate outlets, to provide power to the electronics while on the battery and still have a reasonable inverter that costs a couple hundred bucks.

DAN


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## Calvin&Hobbes (May 24, 2006)

Once again Dan, you've managed to tackle a mod I have been wanting to do for awhile. We too need a dedicated line for running small electronics while dry camping in Nickerson. Did you just run from the plug(where it plugs into the inveterter), to the outlet and then hard wire into the outlet box? I'm figureing two locations for us- the entertaiment center, and then in the kids bunk room....


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Calvin&Hobbes said:


> Once again Dan, you've managed to tackle a mod I have been wanting to do for awhile. We too need a dedicated line for running small electronics while dry camping in Nickerson. Did you just run from the plug(where it plugs into the inveterter), to the outlet and then hard wire into the outlet box? I'm figureing two locations for us- the entertaiment center, and then in the kids bunk room....


Hi Kevin,

I used replacement power cords with the three prong plug. You can purchase them at Home Depot or Lowes. They come in various lengths, I just picked the length that suited the distance I needed to run. I plugged the cords into the inverter and ran the cord to the outlet and connected. You can see the plugs in the inverter in first picture. Since the cords are basically accessible in the cabinets, I did not feel there was a need to run Romex (standard house wire).

DAN


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## Dan Borer (Feb 6, 2009)

[/quote]

The issue is that you will need a transfer switch or a very large inverter to make what you describe work. A very large inverter (3000W) is required to be able to power the outlets when you need to run things like the coffee maker, ceramic heaters, vacuum cleaners, etc, even when you have a land line connection. This is the reason I used separate outlets, to provide power to the electronics while on the battery and still have a reasonable inverter that costs a couple hundred bucks.

DAN
[/quote]

Actually, we use a small Mr Coffee that draws 600 watts when dry camping. The big Mr. Coffee only requires 900 watts by the way. If we need the vacuum we can plug it into the GFI circuit in the bathroom (but only when on gen or shore power). We don't use a ceramic heater when dry camping since an extra blanket and cuddling seem to keep us warm enough. A solar panel helps to extend our dry camping times and the generator gives an extra boost as necessary. I plan to get a 1500 watt inverter to keep the price reasonable too.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Dan Borer said:


> Actually, we use a small Mr Coffee that draws 600 watts when dry camping. The big Mr. Coffee only requires 900 watts by the way. If we need the vacuum we can plug it into the GFI circuit in the bathroom (but only when on gen or shore power). We don't use a ceramic heater when dry camping since an extra blanket and cuddling seem to keep us warm enough. A solar panel helps to extend our dry camping times and the generator gives an extra boost as necessary. I plan to get a 1500 watt inverter to keep the price reasonable too.


Sounds like you thought it through and your solution will fit your needs. We do a combination of dry and hookup camping. We like to use the ceramic heaters when we have hookups since it saves propane. Your comment about the coffee maker is valid, ours is about 900 Watts, real close to the 1000W limit on our inverter. It works, but the overload warning lights start flashing when the coffee maker is plugged in!!!

DAN


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

The solar panels are a big help for keeping the batteries charged. Even with my use of the inverter, I hardly have to run the generator. I think last season I ran the generator for a total of maybe 8 hours, and that was for air conditioning one day. Other than that I haven't needed the generator much since I have covered a good portion of my roof in solar panels.


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

outback loft said:


> The solar panels are a big help for keeping the batteries charged. Even with my use of the inverter, I hardly have to run the generator. I think last season I ran the generator for a total of maybe 8 hours, and that was for air conditioning one day. Other than that I haven't needed the generator much since I have covered a good portion of my roof in solar panels.


Just make sure that if you are using Trojan 6 volts in series, the manufacturer states that they need to be charged at a rate of 14.88V with preferable 5 Amp in order to get the battery fully charged ... allot of solar chargers are not set for that voltage ad needs to be adjusted accordingly, otherwise you may only be getting 80% or less out of your batteries.


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

Ghosty said:


> The solar panels are a big help for keeping the batteries charged. Even with my use of the inverter, I hardly have to run the generator. I think last season I ran the generator for a total of maybe 8 hours, and that was for air conditioning one day. Other than that I haven't needed the generator much since I have covered a good portion of my roof in solar panels.


Just make sure that if you are using Trojan 6 volts in series, the manufacturer states that they need to be charged at a rate of 14.88V with preferable 5 Amp in order to get the battery fully charged ... allot of solar chargers are not set for that voltage ad needs to be adjusted accordingly, otherwise you may only be getting 80% or less out of your batteries.
[/quote]

The Xantrex Pro inverter will actually standby with a minimal draw on the battery. I actually left it on once before I had the solar hooked up and I came back a week later to the batteries low, but not dead. I have resisted the switch to dual 6 volts, and am using a bank of three batteries right now. I have two group size 31 deep cycles and a group size 31 AGM battery. I use the AGM when I am plugged in or running the generator, and the two deep cycles will keep me powered indefinitely as long as I get a site that isn't shaded. I can actually power the inverter directly off the solar panels during the day and can disconnect the batteries from the system after they are charged. When my deep cycle batteries take a dive I will then make the switch to dual 6 volts, but until then I am doing fine with the 12 volts. The batteries will be topped off in the first hour of sunlight in the morning and reach 13.5 volts and the solar charger will shut off then.


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