# Has Anyone Used The Hughes Autoformer



## WWH (May 7, 2010)

I am in the process of converting from 30 amp to 50 amp service since adding the second ac unit and I am considering adding one of these http://www.autoformers.com/. The park we were in over Memorial day weekend had some low voltage issues due to very high demand and this sounds like it could proect our appliances.

Does anyone have one and what has your experience been?

Thanks


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## HodgePodge (Apr 29, 2005)

We have the 30amp version and love it. We bought it a year and half ago and it really helps. I have rarely stayed at a campground where the voltage doesn't drop at some point when everyone starts turning on their A/C. Our unit was the one that they released at the end of 2008 (RV430 model). It has no indicator lights on it, but it has three stages of boost instead of two.


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## WWH (May 7, 2010)

Hodgepodge:

Did you hard wire it in and if so where did you put it?

Thanks for your feedback!


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## HodgePodge (Apr 29, 2005)

I didn't hardwire it. I just lock it to the electric utility pole and I have a plastic cover that goes over it to both hide it from sight and keep any rain off of the unit. It would be nice to hard wire it but there isn't any unused space inside my trailer. They are also very sketchy about the requirement for the compartment that you mount it in to be ventilated. They don't give any specifics on how much ventilation is required and I thought it best not to try the old trial and error method of finding out.


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## chuck&gail (Mar 8, 2010)

We love our 30 amp Hughes autoformer, had it for many years. We end up using it in about 20% of the CGs we visit. It works great. We chain ours and lock to power pole. Cover with plastic bag if it will rain.


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## Tangooutback (Apr 16, 2010)

I read through the ad on Hughes autoformer and am rather puzzled by its methodology. The gadget is supposed to save appliance when voltage drops by boosting voltage. However, the power need is defined by P = VI where V= voltage and I= current (amps). When V drops, current would drop as well. Compensating for V alone does not boost P to what the particular appliance is rated at in term of P (watts). The ad also does not specify how fast it boosts V. If response time is not fast enough, damage is done...especially with compressor motor...it does not help.


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## WWH (May 7, 2010)

Thank you all for your input.

I can't tell from their ad but do they shut down when the voltage is too low or do they continue to try to boost it?


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## NobleEagle (Jul 8, 2006)

WWH said:


> Hodgepodge:
> 
> Did you hard wire it in and if so where did you put it?
> 
> Thanks for your feedback!


My link

My Autoformer Install


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## Gilligan (Aug 25, 2006)

Tangooutback said:


> I read through the ad on Hughes autoformer and am rather puzzled by its methodology. The gadget is supposed to save appliance when voltage drops by boosting voltage. However, the power need is defined by P = VI where V= voltage and I= current (amps). When V drops, current would drop as well. Compensating for V alone does not boost P to what the particular appliance is rated at in term of P (watts). The ad also does not specify how fast it boosts V. If response time is not fast enough, damage is done...especially with compressor motor...it does not help.


The faster an electric motor turns, the _LESS_ current it draws. If the voltage isn't high enough to get the motor up to speed, it will draw more current, and potentially burn up.
This is also true for anything with a switching power supply, such as the converter. Resistive loads, such as lights, do follow the I = E/R rule (lower voltage = lower current).
Y'all didn't know I was so smart, did you?









Gilligan


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## Tangooutback (Apr 16, 2010)

Gilligan said:


> I read through the ad on Hughes autoformer and am rather puzzled by its methodology. The gadget is supposed to save appliance when voltage drops by boosting voltage. However, the power need is defined by P = VI where V= voltage and I= current (amps). When V drops, current would drop as well. Compensating for V alone does not boost P to what the particular appliance is rated at in term of P (watts). The ad also does not specify how fast it boosts V. If response time is not fast enough, damage is done...especially with compressor motor...it does not help.


The faster an electric motor turns, the _LESS_ current it draws. If the voltage isn't high enough to get the motor up to speed, it will draw more current, and potentially burn up.
This is also true for anything with a switching power supply, such as the converter. Resistive loads, such as lights, do follow the I = E/R rule (lower voltage = lower current).
Y'all didn't know I was so smart, did you?









Gilligan








[/quote]

That is true only with compressor/motor inrush current, which last less than half a minute. Once stabilized current draw stays constant. Current is not proportional to motor speed. In another word it does not mean the higher the speed, the lower the current. 
Take the 13,500 BTU roof top a/c for an example. I measured mine and in-rush current at start was 29 amps, which last for about 15 seconds before dropping to 13.5 amps. It stays 13.5 amps until temperature drops to set level and compressor shuts off.

At one time the a/c had a leak and had barely 10 psi of freon, the current draw was 21 amps and it stayed on for about one minute before the Yamaha 2400 shut down due to overdraw. If an autoformer was installed I doubt boosting voltage would have done any good to both generator and compressor.

Once the leak was fixed and freon was charged up to 50 psi, the compressor purred at 13 amps after the initial in-rush was over.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

And the plane on the conveyer will definitely fly!!


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## WWH (May 7, 2010)

Thanks for the link NobleEagle!

Looks Good!


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