# Saga Continues



## caleb22 (Jun 13, 2005)

I bought the dual cam Reese sway control for our 2006 26rks and 2005 Expedition with tow package. I got the 1200lb system.

Above 40mph we're all over the place. I tried all of the angled adjustments and chain link combos over the past 4 weeks. Today I brought it to a dealer and they stated that the fact that I have 1200lb bars for a tongue weight of 600 may be causing the issue. They seem to think the bars aren't flexible enough to deter the sway.

We're in sad shape. Besides my 3 year old devil now it looks like we can't go to Disney in 4 weeks because we can't drive over 40mph.


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## nynethead (Sep 23, 2005)

The big sway usually means an unbalanced load. Is your fresh water tank full? the extra weight caused me a problem with extra not excessive sway when pulling my 29BHS. I have 685 lbs tounge weight and an 800/10000 reece dual cam setup installed by the dealer. The dealer had filled the fresh water when seting up the unit and I didn't know until I went camping the first time and couldn't empty the water tank to go home. I opened the valve under the unit as I drove and by the time it emptied all the bounce and sway was gone. The extra 400lbs of water up by the front of the trailer was causing the problem. Now my truck pulls the unit great.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

1200# bars may be a little heavy for your application but I'm not sure they will affect how the sway control works. I would almost be certain your tongue weight is way over 600, probably 800 or better, my 21RS tongue weight is almost 800. The printed weights in the brochures are way off the mark in most cases. I may be wrong though, with the rear kitchen there is a likely lot of weight back there, but if the trailer is designed right, which it probably is, it shouldn't matter.

Have you weighed your setup to make sure there is enough tongue weight??

Have you followed the reese instructions exactly??

It is very important that you check for equal squat on all four truck wheels. Changing ball angles, etc. without checking for equal load distribution is pointless.

If the back is squatting more, than you don't have enough weight being transferred forward. If the front squats more, you have too much weight going forward. You should not be able to easily snap the chain brackets up into position without first hooking up the truck and trailer and raising the tongue of the trailer and the rear of the truck together. If you can snap them up without raising the hitch, chances are there isn't enough tension on the bars.

Check for proper tire inflation. Switching to LT tires from the P rated tires can make a big difference. The stiffer sidewalls on the LT tires will help keep sway under control.

Good luck,

Mike


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

caleb22 said:


> They seem to think the bars aren't flexible enough to deter the sway.


OK, right off the bat, I don't think your dealer has a clue. The anti-sway - not to mention the L/D - depends on the bars being stiff. I may be wrong on this, as I do not use the dual-cam, but it dosen't sound right to me.









That being said, the other suggestions that have been made are good, but I think the time has come to take it a step further, and get the rig to a truck scale. You will want to weigh the truck without the trailer attached first. Get weights for both the front axle only, and the entire truck. You can the calculate the rear axle weight by subtracting the front from the total.

Now do the same thing again, this time with the trailer hooked up. Also weigh the entire rig (TV and TT). Using the five weights you now have, you can calculate everything you need including tounge weight and total TT weight.

You are looking for a couple of things. First, the tounge weight should equal to about 10-12% of the total trailer weight. Second, with the trailer attached, you should see both the truck axle weights increase by about the same amount. If you do not get these results, then either your hitch is not properly tuned, or your trailer loading is way off.

It is not as difficult to figure out as it sounds. It should also be noted that your rig (TV & TT) should be loaded as you would expect them to be while traveling. You may find that you have to redistribute your load a bit. Maybe even travel with different tanks either empty or full to achieve the correct balance. Once you do get everything within spec, you should tow like a dream.









Good luck, and...

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## zoomzoom8 (Nov 8, 2005)

This sounds familiar...............

Don't fret, it took me probably three days and multiple tries at different setups to get everything balanced.

I had some awful sway to start. Turns out my ball down angle was two nothes off and I needed to add one chain link when I snaped up the springbars. A half dozen hookups and tries later, the world is good again. Those wheel well's (top of the wheel well to the ground) and the front and back of the TT much match in height (or be close) when all is said and done.

Don't give up, these things are a pain to set up the very frst time. You have a great WD system and I'm sure it will be fine with some more tuning.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

I am glad you are asking questions, better safe than sorry when it comes to towing. Your TV & TT setup should allow you tow like a dream. You should not really even notice that you have a trailer behind you. (acceleration will be a bit slower and corners will have to be taken a bit wider and give yourself a bit more braking room) The TT should be stable at all speeds, empty or loaded. You may feel a pull if there is a strong x-wind.

Now regarding set-up - All of the above and make sure everything is level. Can you adjust your set-up to increase the sway control? I have a friction type system and I just turn it up a notch. Your set-up is better so you should be able to get it just right.

Good Luck

Thor


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## Crawfish (Sep 14, 2005)

Is there anyway you can take of pictures of your setup, TV and TT hitched up on level ground. That way we can see how it is set up. If we can see what you have maybe we can help more.

"*Let's Go Camping*"

Crawfish


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Dont get me wrong -- but I highly suggest -- if you haven't already -- to stop for a moment -- get the instructions out -- and go by their exact setup instructions ...

Reese has one exact way that works and 1000 that doesn't --


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## WillTy3 (Jul 20, 2004)

Does your EX have load leveling system? If so this also may be giving you a false reading on how much togue weight you actually have. 
Hope you get this figured out. We are thinking about going to Disney in May and need to get a trip report








Will


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## markvpayne (May 6, 2005)

I had a similar issue when I first took my TT on the road the first time. I install the Reese HP duel cam and discovered that while the angle of the ball was set right the dealer had set the ball about 2 1/2- 3 inches higher than it should have been.

Set the TT on level ground and get it level measure the distance from the top of the ball lock or the bottom and add the height of the ball to the measurement. That is how high the ball should be when the truck is unhitched and level.

Once i dropped the ball on my rig to match up with the trailer tows like a dream no sway even when the trucks fly by.

Good Luck


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

My gut feeling on this due to the severity is that you are serioulsly out of balance when loaded. Way too much tongue weight or way too little. I'm guessing too little. I'll assume the trailer is level or at least slightly lower in the front as needed.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

I just changed tow vehicles and went through the same stress. I got the instructions out and studied them hard for about three days. I almost had them memorized. Then I went out and did what they instructed. Wham! Truck and trailer tow like one unit, even better than with the other TV that was set up by the dealer.

PDX Doug is right. Once you understand it, it's not as hard as seems to be. Patience is essential. I think dealers make a lot of money by making it out to be really complex.

Ball height, ball angle, tire pressure (trailer too) are all important aspects to consider.

Additionally, I have a friction sway and it took about three trips for me to understand just how tight it really needs to be.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Congrats!!!!! - I am glad you got it.

Thor


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## caleb22 (Jun 13, 2005)

I'm also wondering if I'm not getting the TT low enough, that maybe I need a shank that can lower it more. My 4x4 Exp sits high in the rear.


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## zoomzoom8 (Nov 8, 2005)

caleb22 said:


> I'm also wondering if I'm not getting the TT low enough, that maybe I need a shank that can lower it more. My 4x4 Exp sits high in the rear.
> [snapback]67356[/snapback]​


If you're not at the right hitch height, you'll never get it balanced...that could very well be the issue.


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## caleb22 (Jun 13, 2005)

Thanks everyone. Just ordered a shank that appears to hold the load and give me some more room at the bottom to mount the ball. Once I get it I'll give it a try and head to the scales. I have 4 weeks to get it worked out...something to do while family is around for the holidays









I'll be like Clark and just hang my lights and work on the RV for Christmas


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## fishingmarlin (Nov 27, 2005)

Where do you live? Might be a fellow outbacker in your area that can help you out.


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## RVCarolina (Jul 31, 2004)

Caleb22, Did you get your hitch problem figured out? Just curious, does your Expedition have the self-leveling rear suspension that Willty3 asked about? I know that requires a different set-up procedure than regular suspension.
Also, I know everyone pretty much agrees that equal "squat" front and rear when adjusting the load dist hitch is proper, but it does not work well with my rig. I have to add a tad more to the back axle or it drives "squirrelly". Course, a 3/4 ton truck doesnt "squat" much with a 26RS - Maybe 1/2" to 3/4" at the wheel wells.
Let us know how it works out.
Fred


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