# Screwing Into The Panelling



## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

It's time to start screwing things into the wall panels. We need to attach some things to the wall panels, such as spice racks, key racks, clock, small whiteboard/corkboard. We will be adding wood strips to support wire basket drawer sliders in the bunkhouse closets.

The wall panels are pretty thin, with foam insulation behind the panels on the outside walls, and with wires running through the wall cavities.

What do you use for fasteners?

(1) Screws by themselves?
(2) Screws with anchors? What kind of anchors?
(3) Velcro stapled to the wall?
(4) Sticky tape (including 3M Command(tm) Mounting Products)?

Under what circumstances do you use each type of fastener? What's worked, what hasn't?

Thanks


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I think about it real hard to make sure I want it to go in a certain spot then I screw it in. Use screws no longer then 1" and you will be fine with all the wall panels.

Many people will tell you that it lowers the value to screw something in the wall but if it is a value adding addition and will stay when the trailer is sold then there is no loss in value.


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

We have only used 3M heavy duty velcro, but all we have hung are pictures (plastic frame and photo cover) and key hook racks. If it is not drywall (where I can fix it and then repaint it), I will not drill holes or use anchors in Outback walls. For the spicerack I would fasten that to the wood above the microwave. As far as the corkboard...do you really need it?

Randy


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

Velcro works good for light object, might also try Gorilla Glue - I've heard very positive comments from others.

I've used the Cobra Panel drillers (for hollow core doors) in the Raptor. They work well and have been holding our helmets for almost a year, no problems at all. I find them at Lowe's. If you need a pic or something let me know.


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## bill_pfaff (Mar 11, 2005)

Y-Guy,

Picks would be great as I'm not sure what you are talking about.

Thanks
Bill


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

panel-drillers here also, work great.










similar to this except not as deep.


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

I like the ones that open like a butterfly when you screw the bolt in.

That way there is support behind the paneling.

Not sure what you call them.

Steve


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Do you mean a toggle bolt, like this










I would think that the foam insulation would get in the way of the toggle operating properly.

Tim


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

I think Steve's talking about a Molly bolt.










Bill.


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

2500Ram said:


> I think Steve's talking about a Molly bolt.
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That's what I'm talking about....









I used those to put the table bracket back into the wall after it pulled out.

Thanks, Bill!!

Steve


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Oh yeah. I forgot about those....hey, this thread is starting to look like a hardware store.....I can almost hear the creak of the floor, as I stroll through the fastener aisle.....I just love old hardware stores.

Tim


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

You can also use a nylon or zinc drive-anchor like this:








If the load is light to moderate.

These are what is used on the shower surround, are very easy to install, and are not affected by insulation behind the wall.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## GlenninTexas (Aug 11, 2004)

I've used both molly bolts and the plastic splitter anchors like the ones Doug responded with. The molly's will definitly hold more. One thing to consider though is what you want to have happen should something cause whatever your hanging to get pulled out of the wall, say someone stumbles and grabs it as they fall.
A molly bolt or toggle bolt is going to tear a big chunk out of the wall, whereas the other fasteners will only leave a small hole that an be resized or repaired.

I guess it depends on what and where your hanging something.

Regards, Glenn


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> You can also use a nylon or zinc drive-anchor like this:
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These open up like a "Y" when you sink the screw in, right? ---Ed


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

LarryTheOutback said:


> PDX_Doug said:
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> > You can also use a nylon or zinc drive-anchor like this:
> ...


Yes sir.

The cool thing about drive anchors is that they are equally effective in a hollow wall and into solid lumber. The key is that the pre-bore hole diameter is critical. Oversize the hole, and you are...well...screwed!

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

PDX_Doug said:


> LarryTheOutback said:
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> > PDX_Doug said:
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## Paul_in_Ohio (Sep 29, 2004)

I use some of the same above, as well as coarse threaded screws. You drill the same size hole, but the threads are bigger and grab more. Simalar to the panel drillers, but on the screw and no anchor.

Paul


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

With all of these fasteners we need to be careful we are mounting them into a blank wall, not a stud. Meaning that you may need to fasten one end of the thing you are mounting with one mechanism, and the other with a different mechanism.


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

huntr70 said:


> I like the ones that open like a butterfly when you screw the bolt in. That way there is support behind the paneling. Not sure what you call them.
> Steve
> [snapback]92690[/snapback]​


Those are called toggle bolts. I hardly ever use them anywhere because their one big drawback is that if you take the machine screw out for any reason, the toggle part falls. I use Molly Bolts because you can take the machine screw out and the anchor stays in place. I used some Molly Bolts when I did the range hood outside vent mod, to better mount the microwave bracket.

Bill


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## Paul_in_Ohio (Sep 29, 2004)

cookie9933 said:


> huntr70 said:
> 
> 
> > I like the ones that open like a butterfly when you screw the bolt in. That way there is support behind the paneling. Not sure what you call them.
> ...


I'm of the same opinion with the toggle bolts. I have them for my railing going downstairs and every time we need to take something big through the stairwell, I have to remove the railing. So far this has happened 3 times. Pretty soon the toggle end will stay where it is out of shear volume of bolts under it.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Don't forget the void is only 1". So any anchor system or screw should be less then 1" greater then the thickness of what ever you are attaching. Some of those anchor systems require more clearance that that to be installed.


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

I like the panel drillers since you can buy ones that are less than 1 inch.

I did get from a fellow Raptor owner a schematic of our Raptor showing all the studs in the walls along with measurements. I wonder if we could get these to post on the Outbackers for the various Outback campers?


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## OutbackPM (Sep 14, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> Don't forget the void is only 1". So any anchor system or screw should be less then 1" greater then the thickness of what ever you are attaching. Some of those anchor systems require more clearance that that to be installed.
> [snapback]93135[/snapback]​


 I have noted on many occaisions the relevance of CamperAndy's comments







. The long screws and fasteners here can give you problems and unwanted damage.

I have found that using short but thick 5/8 long screws with a pre drilled holes to work very well for hooks, clocks and paper towel holders. The type of paneling we have seems to be very brittle if you don't drill it first but very strong when you get a good clean hole for the screw to hold on to







. It looks like thats all Outback did with thier hooks too. 
With any clamped jont it needs to be tight so the fasteners stay in tension and rely on the friction to hold the hook or item in place. If the hook puts the screw and hence the wall into shear then the hole will get damaged over a short time







.


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