# Flushing The System



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Ok so I am getting ready to flush the system and have a few questions. Below are some pictures showing the incoming lines and what looks like to be a bypass valve for the HW heater. The valve looks closed to the cold water side. What I am confused about is why there is no valve on the top T in the picture? Does this mean that the pink stuff got into the HW heater? and is this bad. I could have sworn during the PDI that it was recommended that I didn't?

Here are the pics:

This looks like the bypass here - notice how the pink stuff made its way back to the top of the T to the hot water outlet.










This is the incomming line on the outflow of the pump with the T going to the hot water heater.


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

The top "T" has a one way check valve in it. To further answer your questions, no it would not be bad if the pink stuff got into the water heater other then wasting 6 gallons of the antifreeze.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

H2oSprayer said:


> The top "T" has a one way check valve in it.


So is that just backfeed from winterizing? I guess I just leave the valve in that position, flush, and when all is clear open it to the HW heater?


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

The shut off is not an actual shut off, but more a diverter. It diverts the liquid from going into the HW tank and into the vertical line (in your photo to the "T") to complete the hot water loop. You are correct with your flushing technique. Keep the shut off in it's current position until you have flushed the lines.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Your valve (on the bottom, cold water inlet to the water heater) is in the normal position not in bypass. When in bypass the valve handle point to the bypass line.


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## Compulynx (Oct 15, 2008)

CamperAndy said:


> Your valve (on the bottom, cold water inlet to the water heater) is in the normal position not in bypass. When in bypass the valve handle point to the bypass line.


+1 on what he said. It is in normal in the photo, not bypass. And there is a check valve on the top at the tank so water will not go into the heater in bypass mode. To winterize, you should have turned the valve to point to the short line, and drained the W/H completely. Then run the pink stuff just thru the lines.

You now need to drain the w/h completely, or you will take forever to get rid of the pink stuff, since it is also in the Water heater now.

Be SURE to refill the water heater before turning it on.

C


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Ok, so I am not in bypass - I found that out when I started to flush with the anode out and water came out of the HW heater. Its coming out clear so I will put the valve in bypass and continue to flush. Should I wait or put the anode in and tighten up? Nothing like learning the first time around!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Once you have flushed the line, put the anode in but just hand tight, you will want to fill and drain it a few time to help make sure all the pink is gone.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Valve is in bypass (amazing how much pressure increased) and all the pink stuff is just about gone. Putting new teflon tape on and will hand tighten. Thank you all for your help!

First, de-winterizing under my belt...


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## Compulynx (Oct 15, 2008)

Let me tell you guys how I winterize.

First, I drain the fresh water tank, then turn the pump on for about 30 seconds to be sure the water is gone.

I made an adapter to my shop vac to connect to the pressure water inlet. I put the water heater in bypass. I then put the hose on the shop vac in the blow mode. I turn it on, and go to the drain caps and remove them untill there is nothing but air coming out. I then put them back on and go to each faucet, and turn both hot and cold on until there is only air coming out. Start at the closest faucet to the water inlet going to the furthest.

I then drain the hot water heater. After that, I take the shop vac inside, and blow out each drain J-trap so no water is in them. The place the drain stoppers in to keep out tank odors.

This leaves the system dry in the lines and tanks.

This method to me does not take much more effort than pink stuff, and when I am ready to de-winterize, I just close the drains, and turn on the water. No flushing involved.

They make an air valve adapter to do it with an air hose, but the pressures are way too high unless you regulate them from an air compressor. The shop vac gives just enough air pressure to blow everything out good.....

Never had an issue with anything freezing. This method may leave a few residual drops of water in the lines, but if they did freeze, there would be ample room in the lines for expansion.

One problem I will have this winter is to figure out how I am going to drain my new accumulator.

(The reason I replace the drain caps is in this area, mud daubers will "cap" it for you if you leave them off.)

C


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Compulynx said:


> One problem I will have this winter is to figure out how I am going to drain my new accumulator.


Not a problem at all.

First - 99% of the water is pushed out by the bladder when you open the drains.

Second - Any water that turns to ice will push on the bladder before it can damage the tank.

Now if you have a tank without a bladder, bad move, then you have to take the tank out to drain it.


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## Compulynx (Oct 15, 2008)

CamperAndy said:


> One problem I will have this winter is to figure out how I am going to drain my new accumulator.


Not a problem at all.

First - 99% of the water is pushed out by the bladder when you open the drains.

Second - Any water that turns to ice will push on the bladder before it can damage the tank.

Now if you have a tank without a bladder, bad move, then you have to take the tank out to drain it.
[/quote]

Yeah, it has a bladder I can adjust the air pressure on.

Cool. That'll work. I was thinking I would have to manually drain it. Never thought about the bladder could expand.

C


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