# Mystery Solved!



## Morrowmd (Feb 22, 2005)

When we got home from our last trip I noticed water was not flowing from *any* of the hot water taps. I turned the bypass valve and voila- water flows freely again.

So I think I've got it diagnosed, something plugged up in the W/H or the connections. Last night I drained the W/H, took the supply line fitting (bottom) and outlet fitting (top) off and checked them. Everything was clear.

I then connected a short piece of garden hose to the outlet (hot water out) fitting and blew hard into it. Then I turned on the pump and after the W/H tank filled, water came out the end of the garden hose. No blockage in the W/H tank.

Great, I hooked everything back up and.......... same problem, water does not come out any of the hot water taps.

Cold water flows fine and when I bypass the W/H, the hot water taps all work again.

Anybody got any ideas? I'm stumped.

Signed,

Baffled & Bewildered


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

Well, if the water flows with the bypass on "winterize", doesn't it have to be in short section between the W/H and the bypass valve?


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

That's a good one, Morrowmd...

I keep coming back to an airlock or vacuum problem somewhere, but from what you have done I can't see how that would be.

You have seen good water flow through the heater when it is out of the loop, so it would seem fine.

You get good flow through the hot water lines when the heater is by-passed, so the main plumbing is OK.

The blockage has to either be in the tube(s) between the by-pass and the heater. Or maybe the by-pass valve itself (probably more likely). The question is, what would get in there?...

Wish I could be more help. My advice would be to hang around. I bet CamperAndy will have an idea or two. He IS the man, when it comes to this kind of problem!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## mswalt (Sep 14, 2004)

> The question is, what would get in there?


...

Pine needles?









Mark


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## Kyoutbacker (Apr 26, 2006)

When we first got our Outback, I found a small pebble in my hot water line drain tube. Luckily it did not stop up the hot water.


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## OutbackPM (Sep 14, 2005)

morrowmd

I had a similar problem when I put a winterizing kit on to the pump (on a 26RS that is under the fridge while the hot watertank is at the front under the bunk). I conncted the 3 legs of the fitting incorrectly







so it did not take anti freeze from thr bottle but would syphon back to the tank where I did not want it to go. On the bypass valve check the correct orientation and operation.

The valve should switch the flow from the supply to the tank OR the bypass. If wrong then you may turn the flow from bypass to off and the bypass and tank are now connceted (useless).

I found this out when I blew through the valve and figured the operation. Of course it was propely marked which I did not take the time to notice







.

Good luck

David


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

I m wondering if the handle is incorrectly installed by 90 degrees. Can you disconnect a hose and look.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

tdvffjohn said:


> I m wondering if the handle is incorrectly installed by 90 degrees. Can you disconnect a hose and look.
> [snapback]118957[/snapback]​


Come on! That would be about as stupid as mislabeling the gray/black water dump valves! Who would do something that idiotic?









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

So I wasn't the only one to do that David......

It took me three gallons of antifreeze to figure that it wasn't hooked up right!!!

Sounds like that might be the problem. If possible I would remove the buypass valve and see if it is installed correctly.

Gary


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## Morrowmd (Feb 22, 2005)

I'll check the bypass valve when I get home, but I'm pretty sure that isn't it. I have winterized for 3 seasons now without a problem and nothing has changed with the set up.

When I unhooked the top hose (hot water out) and attached a garden hose to it, water pumped out the end of the garden hose just fine. That leads me to believe the valve is working. The remaining short section (6") of line that feeds back into the system is clear, also. I took that piece off and inspected it.

Picture of W/H

I'm going to hook up to city water when I get home and see if a little more pressure helps.

Thanks for your responses, I'll keep you updated.

-Matt


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The cold water check valve fitting in the bottom of the tank is failed or failing closed. It does not come into play when the tank is bypassed for winterizing.

The only thing is you said you filled the HWH with the pump and the hot water outlet disconnected. So this has me confused and thus my reason for the fault may be wrong.


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## j1mfrog (Jun 6, 2004)

I just filled my drained system last night. As the water heater filled I got good air flow out the tap, then it stopped. I left it open and after a few minutes, it started flowing water. I don't know what it was, but leaving a tap open fixed it. Some kind of air binding maybe?


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## Morrowmd (Feb 22, 2005)

After checking and rechecking water lines and valves and water pressure, I finally found the answer.

I decided to open the low point drains under the TT, something I had thought about doing first but never did. *I had an air/ vapor lock in the lines!* Water now flows fine through the W/H.

I still don't understand why water flowed when the W/H bypass was turned. It seems like that should have also been blocked. That's what really threw me off.

Oh well, I'm a HAPPY CAMPER again!









Thanks for your responses.

-Matt


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## ee4308 (Aug 23, 2005)

Matt,

Glad you found the problem and got the water flowing again.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Something new to remember for the next person with the problem. Thanks for the update.

John


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Glad to hear you solved the water flow problem









Don


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

YES

Thor


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Great sluething, Matt!

Glad to here you solved the problem, and I am sure that more than one of us will benefit from that in the future!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## j1mfrog (Jun 6, 2004)

Strange, but I'm having this problem now. I'll try your solution.


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## j1mfrog (Jun 6, 2004)

Morrowmd said:


> After checking and rechecking water lines and valves and water pressure, I finally found the answer.
> 
> I decided to open the low point drains under the TT, something I had thought about doing first but never did. *I had an air/ vapor lock in the lines!* Water now flows fine through the W/H.
> 
> ...


Umm, this didn't work for me and it seems I have the same problem. Flows good with bypass, but won't flow through the water heater. Any other ideas? I've tried all of the ideas in this thread.


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## j1mfrog (Jun 6, 2004)

Found it on another post. Bad check valve. Boy there's a poor design for you. Works now thanks to Outbackers.


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I had the sme problem early this summer. It's the check valve on the outlet of the hot water tank. I removed it and fixed the problem. You will have to replace the valve or fill your hot water tank with 6 gallons of antifreeze if you winterize.


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