# Equalizer Hitch, Or Not?



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Just trying to get some experienced advice here.

Our dealer set us up (and everyone else that buys from them) with a Robin Hitch, 1000# bars, and a Reese friction sway control.

We have a 29BHS and I pull with a 2003 1500 Suburban (5.3 L with 3:73 axle ratio). Total trailer weight is at 6000# (including gear) and tongue weight is about 900#. During the PDI, our dealership directed me through the routine of hitching/unhitching. The guy that did our PDI said for our setup, we needed to let four chain links dangle. After loading all our gear and driving the 70 miles back to the dealership for some warranty work (replaced the pump), I told the the service tech that the front end of the TV seemed light. He looked it over and told me to hitch up one link further (5 links dangling). This seemed to help out the light front end feel, but the sway and wiggle are still there.

We are within our weight limits for the TV (although we must upgrade to a 2500 HD TV before we tackle the Rockies).

I notice some wiggle and sway with a cross-wind, and semis induce some sway, as well. But I have to disconnect the Reese when backing in a site (or my driveway). Due to the flat angle of the sway control, I'm afraid that too sharp of a turn will bend the bar.

Also, I hear a lot of loud clunking back there during turns. (And yes, I've applied grease to the bar's pivot points, top and bottom). The 1000# WD bars are noticeably bowed and the tips are slightly above the bottom edge of the tongue frame. Is this correct? It seems to me that this setup is strained somewhat.

I'm considering an Equalizer hitch (which has the WD and sway all in one setup) with 1200# bars. Can anyone with similar experiences weigh in on this? I don't have much to compare with.

Thanks a ton!

Mike

PS: Another Outbacker who got his unit at the same place has similar questions - so you will be helping both of us!


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## Lazybonz(aka Bill) (Sep 23, 2006)

HI
After my recent experiences with a 1/2 ton Dodge, and a Equal-izer hitch on my 26 RKS, I would not have anything other than the Equalizer!








And yup, I am betting before very long, you be moving up to a 3/4 ton truck too. My half tonner worked, but barely!
Bill


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Yup, I'd step up to a EqualiZer hitch if it were me.
I'd also replace the GM receiver on your burb.
Thats where some of the bounce and funny stuff with the front end comes from.
Do a search on "Receiver" on here and you'll find a few threads discussing this.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Katrina said:


> I'd also replace the GM receiver on your burb.
> Thats where some of the bounce and funny stuff with the front end comes from.
> Do a search on "Receiver" on here and you'll find a few threads discussing this.


Thanks for the replies so far!

My Suburban is 2WD and did not come from the factory with a hitch. The dealer added an aftermarket hitch (Putnam, Class IV, 12,000# w/WD), and at my insistance, a transmission oil cooler, up front (they swore up and down that I did not need one).

My Coleman Bayside pop-up weighed about 3100#, loaded - but nowhere near the tongue weight (only 280#). I hardly knew it was back there. I do realize, however, that this 6000#, 30' 8" trailer is NOTHING like my pop-up.

The Equalizer is sounding like a better option. But what weight bars? 1000# or 1200# bars? I'm thinking better to under-utilize the heavier bars than overload the lighter ones. What say you folks?

Mike


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Scoutr2 said:


> I'd also replace the GM receiver on your burb.
> Thats where some of the bounce and funny stuff with the front end comes from.
> Do a search on "Receiver" on here and you'll find a few threads discussing this.


Thanks for the replies so far!

My Suburban is 2WD and did not come from the factory with a hitch. The dealer added an aftermarket hitch (Putnam, Class IV, 12,000# w/WD), and at my insistance, a transmission oil cooler, up front (they swore up and down that I did not need one).

My Coleman Bayside pop-up weighed about 3100#, loaded - but nowhere near the tongue weight (only 280#). I hardly knew it was back there. I do realize, however, that this 6000#, 30' 8" trailer is NOTHING like my pop-up.

The Equalizer is sounding like a better option. But what weight bars? 1000# or 1200# bars? I'm thinking better to under-utilize the heavier bars than overload the lighter ones. What say you folks?

Mike
[/quote]

Go with the 1200 bound bars.
It will tow very well once properly setup.
Be advised though that the EqualiZer is going to make lots of noise too.


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## Camping Fan (Dec 18, 2005)

Scoutr2 said:


> Just trying to get some experienced advice here.
> 
> Our dealer set us up (and everyone else that buys from them) with a Robin Hitch, 1000# bars, and a Reese friction sway control.
> 
> ...


For a trailer that size, the friction sway bar is basically useless. I really don't understand why so many dealers send customers buying 25'+ trailers out the door with that set-up, but they do.







The friction sway bar doesn't prevent sway from happening, it TRIES to stop it after it's already started. With a trailer the size and weight of the 29BHS, that friction bar is going to have an awful hard time trying to stop the momentum of all the weight if it really starts swaying on you.









I would recommend you get either the Reese Dual Cam set-up or the Equalizer, with 1,200 lb. bars, instead of your current system. Both combine WD and sway control, and both try to actually prevent sway from starting. Also, with either one you can back up the trailer without having to unhook anything first. You will notice some noise from the hitch area on turns with both systems, that's normal.

The other option to look at would be the Hensley Arrow, truly the "top of the line" in WD and sway control. The one drawback of the Hensley is the price, but those who use it swear by it.


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

maybe http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12533


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

ditto on the Equalizer 1,200 lb bars








$399.99 at RVwholesalers.com. includes free shipping


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

skippershe said:


> ditto on the Equalizer 1,200 lb bars
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I visited the rvwholesalers web site and cannot find 1200# round bars, nor can I find them on other stes, either. Also, the round bars use a chain setup, and looks a lot like my current setup.

The rvwholesalers website has the 1200# square bars - no chains - built in sway control for $399.99. Is this what I want? (And I know there is going to be differing opinions here.)

Sorry to ask so many questions, but this subject seems to be a quagmire.


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## Lady Di (Oct 28, 2005)

Equalizer is not round bars, you want the 1200 # square bars, no chains, $399.00.

they work great.


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## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

I have the same rig, almost. We have an Equal-I-zer hitch with 1200lb bars. I have not used any other hitch, so I can not offer any comparisons, but thing the Equal-i-zer does a great job.

When installing the Equal-i-zer, you use a number of washers to set the angle of the hitch head. The angle of the hitch head and height of the â€˜L-bracketsâ€™ are used to adjust the amount of weigh distribution. My dealer started me off with 4 ea washers. I could not get the squat out of the rear of my â€˜burb. I added three more (seven total). This helped a good bit.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Mike,

The Equal-i-zer hitch is a really nice setup. I think you would be very pleased with it. The sway problems you are having all come down to the use of a friction sway control. They just do not work very well. Now, granted, the Equal-i-zer sway control is friction as well, but you are talking four friction surfaces now instead of one, and that makes a world of difference.

As far as noise is concerned, the Equal-i-zer is very noisy until you learn to grease everything up. Now mine hardly makes a peep! And I get *NO* sway.









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Mike,
My dealership set my 06 27RSDS up with the friction sway bar, and then when I upgraded to an 07 31RQS, left the same equalizer bars and friction sway. According to REESE, the manufacturer of the sway bar, it is not to be used on TTs over 26'. I saw it on the box in a dealership. My 31RQS has been all over the road, at times, and scared the begeezes out of me, last trip. It's in the shop, now. NO WAY am I leaving that lot without the Equalizer hitch.........hope they're reading!!!








Darlene


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## drose (Jul 26, 2005)

I had the same set up you have except mine was Husky with a single friction. Got the Equalizer from rvwholesalers and the best $399 I ever spent. Sold my Husky back to my dealer for $250.


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

Someone wrote to Progress Mfg. about noise issues on the Equal-i-zer hitch and also asked them about the teflon pads for the L-brackets. This is their response:
Question:
I am still having some noise issues, especially during turning. Do you 
reccomend lubricating the L-Brackets? Will this affect the sway control in any 
way?

Answer:
First of all, it should be noted that just about every weight distribution 
and sway control hitch makes some amount of noise due to the high amounts of 
pressure and weight. Most people are not bothered by it, and say "That's how I 
know my hitch is working!" The Equal-i-zer is a friction-based hitch utilizing 
four positive friction areas to eliminate trailer sway: the rotational 
friction of the Arm Sockets pivoting during turns, and the linear friction of the 
Spring Arms sliding on the L-Brackets during turns. These surfaces are 
metal-on-metal, so it will naturally make some noise. It is normal for your hitch to 
make some noise. However, there are some things that can be done to reduce 
the noise

New hitches should be allowed a break-in period, which involves more noise 
than usual. Looking back in our emails, it appears that you started towing with 
your Equal-i-zer Hitch in May of this year. How long it takes a hitch to 
"break in" depends on the weights you are towing, how often you tow, how far you 
tow, and how frequently you make turns (as opposed to mostly straight driving 
on an interstate). The sockets will wear a rotational path under the Hitch 
Head as they rotate during turns. This may produce some small metal shavings 
(which is normal) until the sockets and head seat together in a smooth, shiny 
rotational path. After this break-in period, the noise should be reduced. 
During this time and throughout the life of your hitch, it is good to lubricate 
the Hitch Head on the friction areas that contact each other, as described in 
the Maintenance section of your Installation Instructions. It not only helps to 
reduce the noise and flush out the metal shavings, but is essential to 
prolonging the life of your hitch. These two points of the 4-Point Sway Control are 
the most powerful for stopping sway, and also make more noise than the other 
two points (the L-Brackets).

Lubricating the friction surfaces on the L-Brackets and Spring Arms is 
optional to reduce some noise, but is not necessary for the proper function of the 
hitch. As you make turns, the grease will spread up and down these arms as 
they slide through the brackets. Not only does this make it messier when 
handling and storing the Spring Arms, this will also become a concern over time as 
the grease begins to collect dirt and road grit. If these areas are not 
regularly cleaned, the build-up of dirt may cause some binding, as well as increased 
noise and wear. If you choose to lubricate the L-Brackets, then you should 
plan to clean them off regularly to prevent dirt from collecting.

For lubricating the Hitch Head, we recommend using our Equal-i-zer Socket 
Lube (4 oz. squeeze bottle, part # 91-00-4200), sold for $8.29 plus shipping. It 
is similar to axle or bearing grease (both work fine as substitutes), but it 
is a higher-grade blend that cleans up much easier. You can order this 
directly from us by phone, through our new Online Store 
(http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/), or request it through your local dealer. Avoid using spray-on 
lubrications or anything of thin consistency, as the won't hold up very long. 
Lubricating the hitch will not effectively work against the metal-on-metal 
friction that your hitch utilizes for eliminating trailer sway.

We do have some accessory items (also not necessary for the function of the 
hitch) to help quiet the hitch in a much cleaner way. We may have a few sets 
of our older Noise-Reduction Padded L-Bracket, sold for $36.00 each plus 
shipping ($72.00 for a pair). These padded L-Brackets have a high-density 
Polyethylene pad assembled to the base of the L-Bracket. You can also purchase just 
the Noise Reduction Pads if we still have some available, but this will require 
that you have two holes drilled in the vertical side of each L-Bracket to 
install the pads. Each pad costs $11.47 plus shipping ($22.94 for a pair), and 
comes with two bolts and two Nyloc nuts for fastening the pads to the L-Brackets.

These Noise Reduction Pads are being phased out for a redesigned and more 
cost-effective version called the Sway Bracket Jackets, which will be available 
in the second week of January. This new version is also made of high-density 
polyethylene, but it requires no fasteners or drilling in the L-Brackets. 
Instead, the Sway Bracket Jacket can quickly and easily be attached and removed 
from the L-Brackets. For both the old and new version, the Spring Arm will rest 
and slide on this plastic pad. Because of the materials properties of 
rubbing steel on plastic, both the old and the new pads will reduce the noise. 
However, it also reduces the friction, resulting in less sway control. If 
reducing the noise is more important than complete sway control, then this option 
would help provide what you are looking for.

It should be noted that you may hear one or two "bang" or "pop" sounds during 
slow turns. This comes from the bars shifting side-to-side as you turn. 
They will shift until contacting either the side of the L-Bracket or the L-Pin 
that secures the bars to the brackets, depending on which way you are turning. 
This is a normal sound for the hitch, and should not cause concern.

I hope this information has been helpful. Please let me know how I can 
further assist you.

Thanks,

Josh Jones
Progress Mfg Inc.
Customer Support
1-800-478-5578
[email protected]


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Wow, that's some answer









I wonder how well the sway bracket jackets will hold up?

Might have to order some of their grease just to see how good it is









Dawn


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