# Water Heater Anode Rod



## jasonrebecca

I did 90% of my winterization last night as we just had our first frost and am wondering what size of a socket I need for the anode rod to drain the water heater. Luckily my 21rs came equiped with a water heater bypass so I was able to complete everything but draining the water heater.


----------



## Eagleeyes

jasonrebecca said:


> I did 90% of my winterization last night as we just had our first frost and am wondering what size of a socket I need for the anode rod to drain the water heater. Luckily my 21rs came equiped with a water heater bypass so I was able to complete everything but draining the water heater.


I believe you need a 1 1/16 deep-style socket....I have the anode rod in the heater as well, which is too bad since they used to use the rod-less heaters with only a plastic plug....

Bob


----------



## jasonrebecca

Yeah, I got confused when I read the plastic plug mod in the other HW heater thread.


----------



## Sayonara

when i drained my system (prior to bypassing the hw heater) my hw heater drained as well. i released the hw pressure valve and the water drained out the low point drain. when i removed the anode rod it was bone dry. relatively speaking. then i flipped the bypass valve.


----------



## California Jim

Hmmmm, so they are back to anode rods in the 08's. Interesting. Thanks


----------



## battalionchief3

Mine had a plastic plug but I stuck an anode rod and petcock drain in anyhow. Easy to drain but I probally dont need the rod. I just used a pair of channel-lock's to get it out. Finger spun it out the rest of the way.


----------



## fspieg

Are the heaters in the 08 model's Atwood? Atwood heaters have aluminum clad tanks and anode rods would not be effective. See last paragraph http://www.atwoodmobile.com/Products/water/elecignt.cfm


----------



## Insomniak

Our 2008 28RSDS has an Atwood water heater with no anode rod, just the same-old nylon plug.

Am I missing something.....???


----------



## FZ1dave

Ours is 1 1/16 and has the rod.

Just be sure to stand to the side when you flip the pressure release.


----------



## ALASKA PFLOCK

jasonrebecca said:


> I did 90% of my winterization last night as we just had our first frost and am wondering what size of a socket I need for the anode rod to drain the water heater. Luckily my 21rs came equiped with a water heater bypass so I was able to complete everything but draining the water heater.


jasonrebecca- Once the water is out the anode rod should be fine.


----------



## Insomniak

I've been working on our old 22 foot trailer before I take it down to Julian where it's going to spend most of its time. It has a new Suburban water heater that I put in about two years ago. This thread got me thinking I should check the anode rod in it since I had never replaced it. I ran out and bought a 1-1/8" socket, but it's too big. Ran back out and found that 1-1/16" is the ticket.

The anode rod was completely dissolved - down to the very center (that I think is a different metal). Definitely release the pressure before you pull the rod out! I thought I had, but when I pulled the rod out, I got hit with a big gush of water that was full of white sediment and junk. My pants looked like a 6 month-old had spit up all over them! I guess that's what's left of the rod?

Anyway, a good flushing and the tank is back in business. If Keystone is putting this flavor water heater in the Outback now, I would definitely follow the draining and flushing instructions, and replace that rod once a year.


----------



## malibutay

I put a new plug in with a petcock and now it has a white chaulky substance around the plug. I put some teflon tape around the threads before I put it in so whats going on. its only been in a month and only used it for a week of that. Any thoughts? Could it be corrosion? also how much should these plug be tightened?


----------



## Katrina

malibutay said:


> I put a new plug in with a petcock and now it has a white chaulky substance around the plug. I put some teflon tape around the threads before I put it in so whats going on. its only been in a month and only used it for a week of that. Any thoughts? Could it be corrosion? also how much should these plug be tightened?


That white chaulky substance is the result of the dis-similar metals causing a galvanic reaction.
I'd get that plug out of there and go back to a plastic one or it's going to weld itself to the tank and you'll never get it out.


----------



## Sayonara

2008 32 BHDS and it has the Anode Rod.


----------



## Rip

What brand of water heater?????????


----------



## Sayonara

Rip said:


> What brand of water heater?????????


Suburban


----------



## wolfwood

OK. I'm among friends. Right? And there "are no stupid questions on Outbackers". Right?

We have an '07 28KRS. We were assured that all we needed to do to winterize (in re: this subject) was remove the plastic plug from the HW Heater and drain the water then flip the by-pass. What's this "anode rod" of which you sages speak? And how do we determine if we have one? And is it contagious?









Thanks.


----------



## Sayonara

wolfwood said:


> OK. I'm among friends. Right? And there "are no stupid questions on Outbackers". Right?
> 
> We have an '07 28KRS. We were assured that all we needed to do to winterize (in re: this subject) was remove the plastic plug from the HW Heater and drain the water then flip the by-pass. What's this "anode rod" of which you sages speak? And how do we determine if we have one? And is it contagious?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Friends - YES, absolutely. But watch yourself. The Anode Rod virus is VERY contagious and those with it can not be trusted.....

If you have the plastic plug then you dont need to worry about the Anode Rod virus. Some manufacturers have a metal plug with a long rod as pictured below instead of the plastic plug. you can see the rod is removed and sitting at the bottom.


----------



## wolfwood

Sayonara said:


> OK. I'm among friends. Right? And there "are no stupid questions on Outbackers". Right?
> 
> We have an '07 28KRS. We were assured that all we needed to do to winterize (in re: this subject) was remove the plastic plug from the HW Heater and drain the water then flip the by-pass. What's this "anode rod" of which you sages speak? And how do we determine if we have one? And is it contagious?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Friends - YES, absolutely. But watch yourself. The Anode Rod virus is VERY contagious and those with it can not be trusted.....

If you have the plastic plug then you dont need to worry about the Anode Rod virus. Some manufacturers have a metal plug with a long rod as pictured below instead of the plastic plug. you can see the rod is removed and sitting at the bottom.[/quote]

Whew! Thanks. At least there's 1 thing we don't have to worry about! But now I do have to worry about all of you...I do hope it's treatable







?

Soooo...what you're really saying is that Friends Don't Let Friends Use Anode Rods?

All kidding aside - inquiring minds (mine & Kathy's, anyway) want to know - what's an Anode Rod do?


----------



## Sayonara

Heres a short snipit.....

_The heating of water within a hot water heater and the motion of the water cause tiny electrical currents to be generated within the water heater. These electrical currents start to eat away at any exposed metal. That's why water heaters have anode rods as a part of their construction. These anode rods are made of magnesium. The magnesium attracts the electrical current and corrodes more easily than the steel tank. However, if the anode rod completely dissolves, the electricity within the tank will begin to look for some other metal. That's why you need to check your anode rod periodically._


----------



## wolfwood

Sayonara said:


> Heres a short snipit.....
> 
> _The heating of water within a hot water heater and the motion of the water cause tiny electrical currents to be generated within the water heater. These electrical currents start to eat away at any exposed metal. That's why water heaters have anode rods as a part of their construction. These anode rods are made of magnesium. The magnesium attracts the electrical current and corrodes more easily than the steel tank. However, if the anode rod completely dissolves, the electricity within the tank will begin to look for some other metal. That's why you need to check your anode rod periodically._


----------



## Katrina

wolfwood said:


> Heres a short snipit.....
> 
> _The heating of water within a hot water heater and the motion of the water cause tiny electrical currents to be generated within the water heater. These electrical currents start to eat away at any exposed metal. That's why water heaters have anode rods as a part of their construction. These anode rods are made of magnesium. The magnesium attracts the electrical current and corrodes more easily than the *steel* tank. However, if the anode rod completely dissolves, the electricity within the tank will begin to look for some other metal. That's why you need to check your anode rod periodically._
































[/quote]

The key word above is steel for the tank.
You have an aluminum tank that does not need, nor does it have an anode Rod.
The drain plug in yours is plastic and if it were replaced with a steel plug, the plug would act as an anode and quickly weld itself to the tank. Some people claim you can use a brass plug and get away with it, bit I couldn't swear to that. Just stick with your plastic drain plug (I even carry a spare) and you'll be fine.
Some of the confusion appears to stem from the fact that Keystone recently switched water heater brands(08 models i think) So some new owners now have an Anode Rod. This is not a new water heater, both brands have been on the market for years (I have owned both). It's just that one has a steel tank with an Anode rod and the other has an aluminum tank without an anode rod.


----------



## wolfwood

Thanks, Jim. As Sayonara explained - we aren't susceptible to this Anode Rod Virus and we certainly have no plans to change anything. Sayonara was simply enlightening me on the purpose of an Anode Rod...when one is so afflicted


----------



## Sayonara

Katrina said:


> Just stick with your plastic drain plug (I even carry a spare) and you'll be fine.


Ditto !


----------



## Eagleeyes

wolfwood said:


> Thanks, Jim. As Sayonara explained - we aren't susceptible to this Anode Rod Virus and we certainly have no plans to change anything. Sayonara was simply enlightening me on the purpose of an Anode Rod...when one is so afflicted


When I had the 21RS, we had the plastic plug. With the new 26RKS, we've contracted the anode rod virus. Pain in the neck....
Bob


----------

