# Water Coming Out City Water Connector



## WIOutbacker (Feb 12, 2006)

Hi,

I'm in the process of sanitizing my fresh water tank and water lines (Yes, I know I'm late). When I run my water pump, it's pushing water out the city water connector. Does anybody have any idea what gives?

Thank you,
John


----------



## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

Your check valve is stuck. On the inside of the TT where the city water inlet is the check valve, some are brass and others are plastic. Yours may have some crud in it. Try to run water through it with using the city water fill, this may clear it up or you can remove the check valve clean it and reinstall it. Others have pluged off the city water fill with a plug. James


----------



## prankster (Dec 20, 2007)

i had the same problem this spring.mine was of the brass type and if yours is the same there is an o ring that has probably gone for a c..p. and to boot the brass one you have to replace the whole thing you cant fix it.(cost me $40)
if yours is plastic you can just replace the valve($10) have fun it not a hard fix it was kinda fun especially if ya got some beer!!!


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Mine did this last summer. I'm a FORCE it to work kinda guy and well...I broke it off.

I simply replaced the entire insert. Yea, so I tend to fix thing with my checkbook rather than skill.


----------



## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Basically, the valve just needs resetting. This happens when there is pressure on the water system, and you push in on the valve from outside. (common during winterization procedures)

These instructions are for a normal style City Water Inlet:

1. Remove the two screws holding the metal flange around the city water fill valve on to the panel about 1/2 way.

2. Reach around and unscrew the plastic adapter screwed into the City water fill valve. Remember you're looking at it backwards - if you had x-ray vision and could see through the panel, rotate the plastic adapter clockwise to unscrew it. I needed a pliers to get it started, then it turned easily by hand.

3. Once the adapter is completely unscrewed, remove the flange screws the rest of the way and the City Water Fill valve comes out easily.

4. Look into the end where you attach your hose. You should see a small white plastic post with circular white plastic rim. The rim has two "ears" that stick out. Underneath the rim you should see a spring.

5. Turn the valve around and look at the other end. You'll see a circular white plastic disk with a small hole in it. If you look carefully, you'll see a black o-ring that is only partially on the plastic disk. That is the problem - when the "blow out" happened, the o-ring came off of this disk.

6. If your valve looks like mine, here is what to do next. With a pair of forceps (or needle-nose pliers), grab the circular white plastic rim (the one with the ears) in the middle. Don't grab the ears themselves, just grab the rim. Then, pull it straight off of the plastic post. It doesn't take much force to pull it off.

7. You'll have a white plastic donut with ears in your pliers. Set that aside. Remove the spring and set aside too.

8. Push the white plug out of the valve by pushing from the end where the hose connects.

9. Now you'll see the white disk with a groove around its circumference. You'll also have the o-ring that is loose. Roll the o-ring back into the groove.

10. Put the white disk back into the valve and hold it with a finger.

11. From the hose-connection side, put the spring over the white post. Then pickup the white plastic donut (with ears) holding it by the side with your pliers. Pliers should not touch the ears. Push it onto the post and it will snap into place. Your valve is now working!

12. To test it, wrap your lips around the end that screws into the RV and blow hard. Nothing, right? Then push the white post in and blow again. Blows right through.

13. Put the valve back into the panel and get the white plastic adapter screw started. Turn it counter-clockwise (looking at it with XRay vision). Make certain not to get it cross-threaded. It should go on smoothly. One it is well started, get the two flange screws started. Then tighten up the adapter by hand, tighten the flange screws, and then give the adapter about 1/4 turn with pliers to snug it up.

14. Turn on your pump and smile as no antifreeze comes out of the city water valve anymore! (At least, this is what happened to me.)

15. Get your label maker (or a magic marker) and add a label reading: "Remove pressure before bleeding valve!" as a reminder.


----------



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Keystone uses the cheap plastic check valves. Mine leaked the third time out. I've fiddled with it quite a bit - to no avail. I stop the dribbling by screwing a brass "Y" hose adapter into the city water fill fitting (outside), and then I shut off both ball valves on the "Y."

On my 2007 Outback, the tank-fill inlet and the city water fill fitting (with check valve) are both integrated into the same metal housing. The city water fill fitting is assembled to the housing and cannot be taken apart to clean the check valve.

Some time this summer (when school is out and the pace slows down a bit) I am going to add a second brass check valve onto the back of the existing check valve to fix the problem. This is the cheapest and easiest fix that I have determined. But when winterizing, I'll have to remove the second check valve, in order to purge water that will be trapped between the two valves and to get anti-freeze into the water line that connects to the city water fill inlet. (I must push in on the check valve from outside, with the pump ON, to get the pink stuff to flow through the line and shoot out the city water fill fitting. This won't work if there is a second check valve behind the original.)

Just my "shade-tree" $.02.

Mike


----------



## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

During winterization, I blow out the lines first and then run in antifreeze with the pump. As I have blown them out, I don't worry about filling that line with pink. Second trailer doing this and no issues to date. Just a suggestion to avoid having the valve fail


----------



## WIOutbacker (Feb 12, 2006)

Hi Everybody,

Thank you for your responses! I took the valve out but was not able to get it unstuck. I'll buy a new valve when I get to the dealer. The good news is that the only time we've ever used the water pump is during winterization and sanitation so I have a little time.

Thanks again for your help!
John


----------



## ED_RN (Jun 25, 2006)

Had the same problem, the dealer broke it replacing the hose from inlet to the pump. Now I carry a short piece of hose with a male connector on both ends. I keep a brass cap on one end. If the valve goes bad just screw in the hose and your good to go until you replace it.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

I took mine out altogethere and replaced it with a brass spring loaded check valve and a water presure regulator. Now I have better water presure, volume and if it goes south I can purchaes a new one at any hardware store. Also less to do and carry when I connect my hose to city water. Kirk


----------



## shaela21 (Aug 16, 2005)

I had the same problem, and managed to fix the check valve. Very cheap design. So I installed a ball valave between the check valve and the water pump. This way, when I am on shore water, the valve is open, and when I am using the water pump, I close the valve and this way no water can seep past the check valve, plus it will not allow antifreeze to be wasted if the check valve fails. Here is a link to the picture under the gallery:

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...si&img=7888


----------

