# Water Lines



## kchiebert (Apr 23, 2006)

I'm wondering what the best way is to understand how the water lines/system/tanks work on the 31rqs. After HIS







foul up at not winterizing, I realized I also need to take a more active part in learning about the Outback systems.

So pretend I know nothing and tell me where to start!!

I'm a visual learner......so if anyone has photos (or linky to website) that shows what the belly of camper looks like without belly cover in place?

thanks!

~Diana Hiebert
Kansas City
31RQS


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Photos will be rare since the entire system is enclosed but the system is very basic.

The system has the following basic components.

Water tank
water pump
1/2" PEX tubing
Water heater
multiple water faucets.

There is also a shore water connection for bypassing the water tank and pump.

Now I could type a book on this subject but with the list of basic items please ask more specific questions on each. You will then get a lot of information on each part of the system.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

I've tried to attach a pix for you. The way it works is that there are 2 inlets; one for the water tank and one for the city water hook up. There is a backflow preventer inside the city water hook up to keep water from pumping out when using the water pump. There is another at the pump to keep water from flowing back into the tank. The two lines are connected together after the pump. Water enters the system either through the city water or is pumped from the tank. The water line then splits off with one leg going to all the cold water faucets and the other going to the hot water heater then the all the hot water faucets. There are also two low point drains to empty the system as well as a drain on the water tank and one on the hot water heater. There is also a bypass line between the inlet and outlet of the hot water heater that will prevent water from going into the heater when you winterize. There is another back flow preventer on the outlet of the hot water heater to keep water going only one way. Hope this helps some.


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## Calvin&Hobbes (May 24, 2006)

The water lines that run through our trailers is a bit of an anomaly. If you have an image of nice, orderly water lines, such as in your home- throw that image out the window. The plastic water lines snake in and out hidden behind walls, through openings in the floor, behind fake partitions, well you get the picture. It is a very basic system, really. the tricky areas are where the pump is located, supply from the fresh water tank and the city connection. Heck, even the "low points" aren't really the low points in some trailers, because of the way the pex tubing can buckle and create an air bubble. Nothing is ever simple it seems!


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## kchiebert (Apr 23, 2006)

Calvin&Hobbes said:


> The water lines that run through our trailers is a bit of an anomaly. If you have an image of nice, orderly water lines, such as in your home- throw that image out the window. The plastic water lines snake in and out hidden behind walls, through openings in the floor, behind fake partitions, well you get the picture. It is a very basic system, really. the tricky areas are where the pump is located, supply from the fresh water tank and the city connection. Heck, even the "low points" aren't really the low points in some trailers, because of the way the pex tubing can buckle and create an air bubble. Nothing is ever simple it seems!


Well HECK! Seems I need to be at the factory when they are building one to get my mental picture of how things are laid out







How can I find out if my "low point" is really my low point?? You all sound much more mechanically minded than me, or perhaps camp-wise. Sounds as if I could really use a set of x-ray eyes to see behind the walls and floors!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

DO not really worry if the low point is really at the low point. As long as you drain most of the water out then blow out the rest with an air compressor then if you really want to protect the system fill it with RV water system anti freeze (pink stuff) you will be more then fine. Just watch all the questions come October on how to winterize.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Lmbevard said:


> I've tried to attach a pix for you. The way it works is that there are 2 inlets; one for the water tank and one for the city water hook up. There is a backflow preventer inside the city water hook up to keep water from pumping out when using the water pump. There is another at the pump to keep water from flowing back into the tank. The two lines are connected together after the pump. Water enters the system either through the city water or is pumped from the tank. The water line then splits off with one leg going to all the cold water faucets and the other going to the hot water heater then the all the hot water faucets. There are also two low point drains to empty the system as well as a drain on the water tank and one on the hot water heater. There is also a bypass line between the inlet and outlet of the hot water heater that will prevent water from going into the heater when you winterize. There is another back flow preventer on the outlet of the hot water heater to keep water going only one way. Hope this helps some.


Larry's picture is exactly what you need to know. Unless you fail to winterize and some split, it doesn't really matter how they get to your faucet...


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## Calvin&Hobbes (May 24, 2006)

Like Andy said, dont worry too much about the low points- as long as you run some pressure through the system (either air or forcing antifreeze) the bends and twists will be taken care of. With my RQS, I can winterrize it with two gallons of antifreeze no problem- including the traps. Starting in September, there will be a plethora of questions/ hints and suggestions to winterize. The first time it's done it seems daunting- but it really isnt tough at all!


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