# Reese Dual Cam Install Advice



## kfcflores (Jan 6, 2013)

Hey guys, newbie here and have a few questions on the reese dual cam install.
First off, here are my specs.
TV 2007 Chevy Tahoe Ltz
TT 2006 Outback 27RSDS
Trailer at scales weighed to go was 6000lbs.

I bought the trailer used and it came with a eaz lift wd system. 1000lb round click in bars. I towed it home from dealer fine, but knew I wanted to add some sway control so added a single friction bar style system.

Other twist to my situation is that I went in on the trailer with my brother. His TV is Chevy avalanche, but his receiver is lower than mine so the hitch head wouldnt work on his truck. Searched craigsist and found a draw tite head with 750lb round click in bars.

Went on maiden trip last week and I towed set up to campsite. No problems, felt pretty straight and sturdy behind. Granted it was mostly flat on a not too windy california day. My brother towed rig back and also said it felt good.

Well when my brother dropped off the trailer at storage, he noticed the sway bar install plate on trailer was partially ripped out of frame. See picture. He said he remembers hearing a big "BANG" when he got off freeway. So needless to say that is out.

I wanted to install the reese dual cam system anyway after reading good reviews on it and that I probably needed more for a close to 30 foot trailer being towed by a short wheelbase suv. So I bought a reese dual cam 26002 system. The new silver one (off ebay, good price). I know there are a lot of threads on installs out there, but any pointers to do it right would be appreciated.

I will probably be doing install next week, I also have barker electric power jack on the way.

Couple key questions I have are about threading the bolts in first. So after I drill the holes, should i drill in the bolts to get them started. I did this with the friction bar and it seemed like it almost stripped them. How much torque do I actually need. Do I need a special torque wrench. Also any tips on distances, i see 18, 18.5, 19? What is it. Also we will be using the 750 lbs bar my brother got because those ones have the cam bend, the 1000 lbs bars are straight. Will those be ok? Also, are the cams going to have to be adjusted everytime depending on what tow vehicle we are using. I know lots of questions, but I want to do this right. Thanks again.

Kevin


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

kfcflores said:


> Couple key questions I have are about threading the bolts in first. So after I drill the holes, should i drill in the bolts to get them started. I did this with the friction bar and it seemed like it almost stripped them. How much torque do I actually need. Do I need a special torque wrench. Also any tips on distances, i see 18, 18.5, 19? What is it. Also we will be using the 750 lbs bar my brother got because those ones have the cam bend, the 1000 lbs bars are straight. Will those be ok? Also, are the cams going to have to be adjusted everytime depending on what tow vehicle we are using. I know lots of questions, but I want to do this right. Thanks again.
> 
> Kevin


Best advice is once you get the new hitch, read the instructions and follow them. If you have specific questions about the instructions then we can help with that.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

The Reese Dual Cam instructions say that the pivot bolt on the cam arm should be about 18" from the center of the hitch ball socket. You may need to move the cam arm bracket and/or the snap-up bracket to get everything situated, but the bottom line is that the chains on the snap-up brackets should be perfectly vertical when you're hitched for towing, and the indents on the spring bars should be centered on the cam. The cam arms have a threaded shank so you can do quite a bit of adjusting to fine-tune. There's a set screw and jam nut on the inside of the cam arm bracket that allows you to position it just right before drilling holes. Use a center punch and drill with progressively larger bits to a hole size of 17/32", then install the cap screws and torque to 85 ft-lb. The cap screws only go through the outer a-frame wall, so you don't need to drill through the entire frame. Just make sure to not overtighten the cap screws or you'll strip the holes. Pretty simple install.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Insomniak said:


> The Reese Dual Cam instructions say that the pivot bolt on the cam arm should be about 18" from the center of the hitch ball socket. You may need to move the cam arm bracket and/or the snap-up bracket to get everything situated, but the bottom line is that the chains on the snap-up brackets should be perfectly vertical when you're hitched for towing, and the indents on the spring bars should be centered on the cam. The cam arms have a threaded shank so you can do quite a bit of adjusting to fine-tune. There's a set screw and jam nut on the inside of the cam arm bracket that allows you to position it just right before drilling holes. Use a center punch and drill with progressively larger bits to a hole size of 17/32", then install the cap screws and torque to 85 ft-lb. The cap screws only go through the outer a-frame wall, so you don't need to drill through the entire frame. Just make sure to not overtighten the cap screws or you'll strip the holes. Pretty simple install.


The picture above is with the bracket in the alternative installation direction. You may have to also do it this way as the VIN plate on the drivers side could be in the way.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

You will more than likely have to adjust the hitch from vehicle to vehicle. I saw the install of mine at the dealer, and the tech drilled the frame, and I guess the bolts are self tapping. He just ran them right into the holes he drilled with his air wrench. I have a thread on here from when I was getting mine dialed in. It might be good for you to read thru it. The Reese is an awesome system when properly installed. One of the keys to the system working is to get some flex in your bars.

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=33130&view=&hl=flying


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

CamperAndy said:


> The Reese Dual Cam instructions say that the pivot bolt on the cam arm should be about 18" from the center of the hitch ball socket. You may need to move the cam arm bracket and/or the snap-up bracket to get everything situated, but the bottom line is that the chains on the snap-up brackets should be perfectly vertical when you're hitched for towing, and the indents on the spring bars should be centered on the cam. The cam arms have a threaded shank so you can do quite a bit of adjusting to fine-tune. There's a set screw and jam nut on the inside of the cam arm bracket that allows you to position it just right before drilling holes. Use a center punch and drill with progressively larger bits to a hole size of 17/32", then install the cap screws and torque to 85 ft-lb. The cap screws only go through the outer a-frame wall, so you don't need to drill through the entire frame. Just make sure to not overtighten the cap screws or you'll strip the holes. Pretty simple install.


The picture above is with the bracket in the alternative installation direction. You may have to also do it this way as the VIN plate on the drivers side could be in the way.
[/quote]
Exactly. The usual installation for that particular bracket would be on the driver's side (this is on the passenger side), with the pivot bolt closer to the snap-up bracket, rather than away from it. I left these pieces with the dealer so they could install the anti-sway stuff along with the Maxx Fan and slide toppers prior to delivery. Despite my instructions to the technician, he either didn't listen, didn't read the instructions, or didn't know his right from his left. Either way, the difference is minimal and can be made up with the adjustible shank on the cam arm.


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## kfcflores (Jan 6, 2013)

Thanks for all your advice guys. The pieces should be here next week so I can do the install on saturday before I watch my niners win the SB on sunday. Do you think 750lb bars will be fine with my setup?


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## Joe/GA (Aug 14, 2009)

When I had my Outback, I insisted the dealer give me the dual cam system. I had heard so much good about it and I wanted a good towing experience. Of course, they installed it wrong!







When I noticed that the camper wasn't level and the sway was excessive, I got the installation instructions and went to work. I followed the instructions to the letter. It was easy. The dealer's install wasn't even close.







After I completed the install, I took it for a ride and was very pleased. It is a great hitch. However, my 30RLS could have used 1200 pound bars instead of the 1000 pound bars that the dealer ordered for me. Good luck and measure 3 or 4 times before drilling holes!


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

kfcflores said:


> Thanks for all your advice guys. The pieces should be here next week so I can do the install on saturday before I watch my niners win the SB on sunday. Do you think 750lb bars will be fine with my setup?


You gave an overall weight above for the loaded trailer, but not an actual tongue weight. The bars should be sized to the actual tongue weight, and I'd say having 1/2 ton tow vehicles would lend me to think that the 750 lb bars might work well if your tongue weight and TV suspension is enough to get them to flex. Might not have to be 750 lbs with a softer suspension. At least you already have the 750lb. bars, so if you have to do trial and error, its not like you wasted $ on that set.


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## kfcflores (Jan 6, 2013)

*****UPDATE*****
Ok everyboby. Did a few installs today. First one was a barker power tounge jack. Super easy install and awesome modification.

Then I was on to the Reese dual cam install. That was a little tricky finding the exact way and place to mount due to vin plate and trailer configuriation, but got both sides at the 18inch suggested spot. Drilled the holes (tough), and torqued down nuts and bolts.

So here is my dilema.

I was using 1000lb round bars before and had the chains set at 5 links under tension which distributed the weight well. 
The bars I have now are 750lbs. Am using those ones, because they have the curve I need for indents to sit in, the 1000lb ones are flat. So Reese suggests at least 5 chains under tension, but that doesn't transfer enough weight. And I don't see how it would considering the hangar brackets are equal to about 2-3 links. So can I go to 3 or 4 links under pressure? Do I need to get heavier bars? Any help would be nice.

And of course the measurements are different between my brothers truck and mine so we will have to adjust the cams every time, but I'm not that concerned about that. I won't be towing every weekend.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

kfcflores said:


> *****UPDATE*****
> Ok everyboby. Did a few installs today. First one was a barker power tounge jack. Super easy install and awesome modification.
> 
> Then I was on to the Reese dual cam install. That was a little tricky finding the exact way and place to mount due to vin plate and trailer configuriation, but got both sides at the 18inch suggested spot. Drilled the holes (tough), and torqued down nuts and bolts.
> ...


I sent you a PM. 5 links is where you want to be and head tilt and ball height ought to allow this.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

kfcflores said:


> *****UPDATE*****
> Ok everyboby. Did a few installs today. First one was a barker power tounge jack. Super easy install and awesome modification.
> 
> Then I was on to the Reese dual cam install. That was a little tricky finding the exact way and place to mount due to vin plate and trailer configuriation, but got both sides at the 18inch suggested spot. Drilled the holes (tough), and torqued down nuts and bolts.
> ...


Be careful aboout to few links with the Dual Cam. When the bars slide up and over the cam in turns, and you have to few links free, the bar can hit the cam. Then you have the classic immovable object an irresitable force. Something has to give, and it usually ends up being a broken/or twisted cam or bolts ripped out or the snap up bracket being bent. The fewer the links the easier to bind. So whenever you are done with setup, have someone watch carefull as you turn sharp as possible and measure bar to cam clearance. Then repeat in a sharp backup turn. Repeat in both directions. Make sure you have at least 1/8 clearance because on a uphill or downhill off camber turn the clearance issue is even worse.

Generally if you stay with 5 links or more you are ok.

it does sound like you may need heavier bars or more tilt on the head.


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## Joe/GA (Aug 14, 2009)

KTMRacer said:


> *****UPDATE*****
> Ok everyboby. Did a few installs today. First one was a barker power tounge jack. Super easy install and awesome modification.
> 
> Then I was on to the Reese dual cam install. That was a little tricky finding the exact way and place to mount due to vin plate and trailer configuriation, but got both sides at the 18inch suggested spot. Drilled the holes (tough), and torqued down nuts and bolts.
> ...


Be careful aboout to few links with the Dual Cam. When the bars slide up and over the cam in turns, and you have to few links free, the bar can hit the cam. Then you have the classic immovable object an irresitable force. Something has to give, and it usually ends up being a broken/or twisted cam or bolts ripped out or the snap up bracket being bent. The fewer the links the easier to bind. So whenever you are done with setup, have someone watch carefull as you turn sharp as possible and measure bar to cam clearance. Then repeat in a sharp backup turn. Repeat in both directions. Make sure you have at least 1/8 clearance because on a uphill or downhill off camber turn the clearance issue is even worse.

Generally if you stay with 5 links or more you are ok.

it does sound like you may need heavier bars or more tilt on the head.
[/quote]

When I had my Outback, I had the same problem. I needed 1200 pound bars and only had 1000 pound bars, but I got close enough by using 4 links. I had the hitch head tilted as far as it would go. So, as stated, I made sure I had enough clearance with 4 links and that is how I always hooked it up after that. That doesn't mean it will work for you, so be careful.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

One point on the number of links. It is dependant on frame height. Five is correct for all the Outbacks and yes this is an Outback forum but if someone reading this has a taller frame then they will need more links and if they have a shorter frame they can use less.

To the OP, to use this hitch on two different trucks is not an easy thing to do if they have different hitch receiver heights and suspension characteristics. You will need to change the head angle for each truck and that will be a major pain. Also the 750 pound bars may be too small if they are visibly bowing when set to give the correct weight distribution. It would be better to try and buy a shank and head for each truck, they then can be set for the correct angle. The bars, cams and snap up brackets stay with the trailer.


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## kfcflores (Jan 6, 2013)

CamperAndy said:


> One point on the number of links. It is dependant on frame height. Five is correct for all the Outbacks and yes this is an Outback forum but if someone reading this has a taller frame then they will need more links and if they have a shorter frame they can use less.
> 
> To the OP, to use this hitch on two different trucks is not an easy thing to do if they have different hitch receiver heights and suspension characteristics. You will need to change the head angle for each truck and that will be a major pain. Also the 750 pound bars may be too small if they are visibly bowing when set to give the correct weight distribution. It would be better to try and buy a shank and head for each truck, they then can be set for the correct angle. The bars, cams and snap up brackets stay with the trailer.


Camper Andy,
We do have two separate heads and shanks. There is no way we could use the same one. I am going to try 4 links and see if that works. A lot of suggestions are with ball height and tilt. To try and distribute more weight do I need ball higher and tilt toward trailer? That seems to be suggestions. Hopefully 4 links will work because I will have to take receiver to shop to have adjusted. I don't have wrenches for that. 
Another quick question, some install videos show when doing cam adjustment to loosen yoke and do test run. Some turns and then straight line. Then tighten. The instructions just say center on indent and tighten. How crucial is test drive. They will need to be adjusted each time I tow or my brother tows. The bars don't match up exactly same way. Close not not exact


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

kfcflores said:


> One point on the number of links. It is dependant on frame height. Five is correct for all the Outbacks and yes this is an Outback forum but if someone reading this has a taller frame then they will need more links and if they have a shorter frame they can use less.
> 
> To the OP, to use this hitch on two different trucks is not an easy thing to do if they have different hitch receiver heights and suspension characteristics. You will need to change the head angler for each truck and that will be a major pain. Also the 750 pound bars may be too small if they are visibly bowing when set to give the correct weight distribution. It would be better to try and buy a shank and head for each truck, they then can be set for the correct angle. The bars, cams and snap up brackets stay with the trailer.


Camper Andy,
We do have two separate heads and shanks. There is no way we could use the same one. I am going to try 4 links and see if that works. A lot of suggestions are with ball height and tilt. To try and distribute more weight do I need ball higher and tilt toward trailer? That seems to be suggestions. Hopefully 4 links will work because I will have to take receiver to shop to have adjusted. I don't have wrenches for that. 
Another quick question, some install videos show when doing cam adjustment to loosen yoke and do test run. Some turns and then straight line. Then tighten. The instructions just say center on indent and tighten. How crucial is test drive. They will need to be adjusted each time I tow or my brother tows. The bars don't match up exactly same way. Close not not exact
[/quote]
I think the little drive is important. When I was doing mine, I'd go to the church lot down the street and make the adjustments. When you say you're not transferring enough weight, are you seeing the flex in the bars? Pics would definitely help.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

kfcflores said:


> One point on the number of links. It is dependant on frame height. Five is correct for all the Outbacks and yes this is an Outback forum but if someone reading this has a taller frame then they will need more links and if they have a shorter frame they can use less.
> 
> To the OP, to use this hitch on two different trucks is not an easy thing to do if they have different hitch receiver heights and suspension characteristics. You will need to change the head angle for each truck and that will be a major pain. Also the 750 pound bars may be too small if they are visibly bowing when set to give the correct weight distribution. It would be better to try and buy a shank and head for each truck, they then can be set for the correct angle. The bars, cams and snap up brackets stay with the trailer.


Camper Andy,
We do have two separate heads and shanks. There is no way we could use the same one. I am going to try 4 links and see if that works. A lot of suggestions are with ball height and tilt. To try and distribute more weight do I need ball higher and tilt toward trailer? That seems to be suggestions. Hopefully 4 links will work because I will have to take receiver to shop to have adjusted. I don't have wrenches for that. 
Another quick question, some install videos show when doing cam adjustment to loosen yoke and do test run. Some turns and then straight line. Then tighten. The instructions just say center on indent and tighten. How crucial is test drive. They will need to be adjusted each time I tow or my brother tows. The bars don't match up exactly same way. Close not not exact
[/quote]

with outbacks and other trailers with the coupler on the top of the frame one thing to do is to use a ball with a 1" rise. Get one that will take the weight, those designed for goosenecks will. I have one with a 25,000lb rating. This will do two things. Give you slightly more tilt angle since the pivot point is 1" higher. And second, give you an additional link for the same tension.

To give more tension you want the head to tilt more towards the ground. Not necessarily higher, because in the end you want the TV and trailer to be "level".

And yes, you will likely need to adjust the cams with each vehicle. The "test drive" as in the instructions is one way, and a good way to get proper settings. You can get close, or at least I did by hooking up as straight as I could and adjusting, but I was still off slightly. And it is pretty important to get them set right for the system to work well.


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