# Hot Water Heater Drain Plug Replacement



## dutchman (Sep 14, 2004)

Unless it's just another senior moment, I seem to remember a thread from awhile back about replacing the plastic drain plug in the hot wter heater with a valve. After almost amputating my finger yesterday, I figure this might be a good thing to do.

Does anyone else remember that thread and could you lead me to it?

Thanks.

Jim


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

I remember the post Jim, but I am not finding it with Search. Seems like it was just in the last month or so. It may have been embedded in a thread of another subject.









In any case, yes, it can be done.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Scrib (Jun 28, 2005)

I didn't turn it up, either - did find this though:
http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...61&hl=brass


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

I remember reading recently that someone discovered the plug is 22mm if that helps.


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

I replaced mine, I used a 1/2" brass nipple inserted into the drain hole, connected a 1/2 FIP x 1/2 FIP 10" braided steel flex hose to that and on the other hose end connected a 1/2" MIP brass hose bibb. The hose system lays underneath the gas valve and burner tube and when you need to drain it, open the heater door, pull out the hose and open the valve, which also gets the water outside of the heater casing.

If I remember:
brass nipple = $2.25
hose = $3
valve = $4.50

Works for me anyways.

kevin


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

hurricaneplumber said:


> I replaced mine, I used a 1/2" brass nipple inserted into the drain hole, connected a 1/2 FIP x 1/2 FIP 10" braided steel flex hose to that and on the other hose end connected a 1/2" MIP brass hose bibb. The hose system lays underneath the gas valve and burner tube and when you need to drain it, open the heater door, pull out the hose and open the valve, which also gets the water outside of the heater casing.
> 
> If I remember:
> brass nipple = $2.25
> ...


I may be completely wrong but I thought putting a brass fitting in the drain hole would cause a reaction with the metal the tank is made out of and cause it to corrode







. I'm able to get at mine with a socket on an extension pretty easily.

Mike


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Mike, I read your comments and decided to research further, I believe that you are correct my friend! I assumed the tank is steel, it is coated with aluminum on the inside which eliminates the need for a anode rod. So the aluminum and brass is a bad combo for sure.

thanks for the heads up I will be re-evaluating

kevin


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

hurricaneplumber said:


> Mike, I read your comments and decided to research further, I believe that you are correct my friend! I assumed the tank is steel, but in reality it is steel coated with aluminum on the inside which eliminates the need for a anode rod. So the aluminum and brass is a bad combo for sure.
> 
> thanks for the heads up I will be re-evaluating
> 
> kevin


I was just going to ask about the anode. In my old Coleman pop-up, the anode and drain plug were the same thing. So Kevin, you are saying in these units there is no seperate sacrificial anode?

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

ATWOOD CLAD TANK
The Atwood water heater tank is constructed 15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum This material protects the tank from the anodic to these heavy metals and acts There is also no need to replace an anode Flushing the tank on a regular basis has and adding to the useful life of the tank.

WATER HEATER TANK CORROSION
The aluminum tank is the anode and the water serve as the cathode. Consequently, the aluminum gradually sacrifices itself and aluminum particles away with the water flow.

A white scaly material (aluminum oxide) often is formed around the points where the heaviest ac tion is
heat accelerates the process. Severity of the problem varies considerably in different locales depending
mineral content of the water. White deposits inside the water heater tank are usually from water impurities
settled out.

Periodic flushing of the water heater tank under pressure is recommended to slow down this process.
instructions see your owners manual or contact Atwood for a copy of our recommended procedure.

Which means I have created my own problem with my drain, I will be fixing this weekend. I had been trying to find a 1/2" plastic nipple and looked everywhere to no avail so I went brass without thinking the galvanic corrosion thing. Which is really strange because at work I take that into account, go figure, why on my own things I don't think the same.

On mine the gas piping is right in front of the drain, so a socket is not possible, even a wrench is a challenge, I took it all apart just to do what I did, The reason I wanted a drain valve.

kevin


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

I don't suppose wrapping the threads in Teflon tape would totally insulate to two materials, but it might really reduce the galvanic 'action'. Just a thought.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Kevin, just switch to a PVC SCH-80 nipple instead. I'm not positive it will withstand the heat, but suspect it will. Heck, the factory plug is plastic too









ON EDIT: I really like your idea so if it works let us know so I can do it too


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

California Jim said:


> Kevin, just switch to a PVC SCH-80 nipple instead. I'm not positive it will withstand the heat, but suspect it will. Heck, the factory plug is plastic too
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm with Jim. And hey, if it dosen't work... better you than me!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## OutbackPM (Sep 14, 2005)

If you drain the tank after each camping trip (I now do mine to save some tongue weight) then you will eliminate the galvanic reaction while not in use. How fast would it corrode while just camping? I know that depends on the water but if someone has some experience form other heaters that are on 365 days a year then that would give you an idea. I fitted one recently and applied Teflon tape (per Doug's question above) to both threads so hopefully I wont get into trouble too soon.


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

I put my plug in "finger-tight" and have never had a problem with it falling out or leaking. It makes life a lot more pleasant if you don't have to get a wrench on it.


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## dutchman (Sep 14, 2004)

Here's an excerpt frpm Atwood's response:

"We only recommend using the plastic plug that comes stock with the unit. We
do not offer any type of valve for it. "

Guess that answers it. Thanks for all the responses.

Jim


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Jim,

funny thing is, Atwood told me that brass is "the only other acceptable material" to install in the drain.

I have since changed mine to plastic and it works rather nice, the hose gets the water out of the heater box.

kevin


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## Hokie (Jul 10, 2006)

Here is how I did it on my previous trailer. It was an Atwood water heater so I am guessing it would be similar. The knob on the ball valve needs to be shortened to allow it to turn. This idea came from a guy on another forum that I quickly snatched up.

-Sam


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Hokie said:


> Here is how I did it on my previous trailer. It was an Atwood water heater so I am guessing it would be similar. The knob on the ball valve needs to be shortened to allow it to turn. This idea came from a guy on another forum that I quickly snatched up.
> 
> -Sam


Looks pretty good









Don


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

That looks like a pretty good solution, Sam.








Any issues with heat from the burner?

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Hokie (Jul 10, 2006)

PDX_Doug said:


> That looks like a pretty good solution, Sam. thumbright
> Any issues with heat from the burner?
> 
> Happy Trails,
> Doug


No - the burrner for this water heater was far to the right of the compartment with the vent near the top. I will need to access the Outback's when I get it.

-Sam


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

My 28FRLS has a different hot water heater, too. My drain is just above and slightly to the left of some electrical connections. I want to reroute the drain so it doesn't splash on the electrical connections -- can't imagine having water on the connections is a good thing. However, I won't put a tap on, but instead will put on a simple cap -- I'm too impatient for a tap as it slows the water down by about 50%. At the same time, I'm going to put an "L" piece on the fresh drain and carry it out the back of the bumper for easier access. I'm getting way to old (and lazy) to be crawling under the 5.


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## shaela21 (Aug 16, 2005)

This looks like a great mod to do, since I have also nearly sliced a finger trying to get the plug out. What size nipple did you use in the hole? Thanks for the idea.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Hokie said:


> Here is how I did it on my previous trailer. It was an Atwood water heater so I am guessing it would be similar. The knob on the ball valve needs to be shortened to allow it to turn. This idea came from a guy on another forum that I quickly snatched up.
> 
> -Sam


Nice work. That must really help out.


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Hokie said:


> That looks like a pretty good solution, Sam.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No - the burrner for this water heater was far to the right of the compartment with the vent near the top. I will need to access the Outback's when I get it.

-Sam
[/quote]

That's great Sam








Might just have to make a trip to the hardware store for some parts

Don


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

This is the one I ended up going with, works great so far.


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## willie226 (Apr 4, 2006)

hurricaneplumber
Looks good !!!! I like that idea
Thanks
Willie


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

HP....that is indeed an AWESOME solution.

Keystone should make that a standard.


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