# Equalizer Adjustments



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

I just got done installing a new equalizer hitch. I followed the manufacturers instructions and was surprised that my WD was pretty close. I have a Dodge RAM 2500 and my before WD measuremts TV alone were 40-3/4" - Rear & 40.5" - Front. After WD I measured 40" - Rear & 40.5" - Front.

We took it out for a run and the TV seemed to be "bouncy"

If I adjust the hitch lower then the TT will definitely sit lower on the ball.

Is adjusting the link plates (set a factory recommeded -hole 5) or putting another washer (I have 5 already) on the hitch something that would help this?

Thanks,

Rick


----------



## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Hi Rick,

I found that adjusting the equal-i-zer perfectly according to the instructions made for a really bad ride with our truck. With our old 1/2 ton truck unless it was set up perfect, the ride was bad but with the 3/4 ton it doesn't seem as critical. I lowered the "L" brackets by one hole and the ride was much better.

I have all 6 washers in the hitch head and can't remember which hole the "L" bracket was in. Whatever one it was in to make the truck squat equally I lowered it one hole and it was perfect, good sway control and a decent ride.

Mike


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Thanks Mike, I am in the process of adding another washer and will adjust the L bracket - I will let you know how that works.


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

I added another washer. Adjusting the L brackets put the measurement way off.

More suggestions?


----------



## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Don't get too caught up in getting the measurements right, try it after adjusting and see if it rides better. I think mine are off but the ride is good and it squeals like crazy going around turns which means there is a lot of tension on the bars and I'm getting good sway control.

Mike


----------



## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

7 washers (had 6 before) did the trick for me. I left the L-brackets right at the same spot they were with on my 1/2 ton.

-CC


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Its not so much the adjustment that I am worried about, but, the ride. I put another washer on - and - will try another washer. I just need to get the ride a bit more smother. It seems to still be jerky and bouncy.

I think part of it may be where I have my head to my shank bolted in. I don't know if the RAM 2500 sits higher than the 1500, but, I have my shank pointing down and fastened inside the top holes. Also, when tightning the head assembly with the washers - are you supposed to lift the head such that the washers push against the inside - or - just leave it tilt and tighten?

My equalizer bars are tight and on some turns I get a loud snap - not sure what this is, but, there is no damage.

Would really like to get this finished tomorrow!

Rick


----------



## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

The loud pop is harmless, actually a good thing because it indicates you have a lot of tension on the bars.

There should be a bolt on the bottom of the head that you tighten to push the pin with the washers against the top.

The truck and trailer should be level while hooked up.

Mike


----------



## mike (Dec 17, 2006)

In a follow up to this question, we recently did the axel flip and the dealer, who i feel is pretty good and always spends extra time with me, related that after the tt is loaded the level should be withing normal. The tt was a little high but the tt was unloaded does this make sense? Maybe I should post this on a seperate thread


----------



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

I had the same issue with my Chevy 2500HD - ride was bouncy when adjusted perfectly. I raised the L-brackets one notch (1") and what a world of difference. The ride is now smooth - no "porpoising." Raising the L-brackets threw more weight to the front axle and now both the front and the rear squatted the same amount. My trailer rides about 3/4" lower at the ball than in the rear - and your trailer is almost identical in length and weight to mine.

I tried putting washers in and taking washers out - but raising the L-brackets did the trick.

(BTW - what bars do you have. Mine are the 1200# bars. Lighter bars will be a bit more springy, because given the same load, they will flex more.)

Mike


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

So I re-measured from the ground to the top of the trailer coupler - with the TT leveled and came up with 24." I guestimated that my tongue weight was about 600# which, according to progress, equates to a 3/4 rise. I ended up moved the hitch head down a hole and when I re-measured it was right on.

I took it out for a run and it seemed better. However, later while flushing out my system I filled the fresh water tank and left it full and went out for another run. This time it was jumpy? However, the steering was steady and not all over the road.

Since I don't really know my exact tongue weight and the trailer is not loaded I am going to wait until it is to see it makes a difference. The 250RS dry weight is around 5600# and adding the propane etc, I figured around 600#. My max weight is 7500 which I don't think I will ever get to, so, I rounded to around 600# for tongue weight. I really need to get to a scale.

I can try adjusting the L brackets and see if that makes a difference. I have to be careful because the difference between the front vs back is a 1/4" (fronts higher).

The big test will be getting if off these backroads and on a highway.

Question - what is the purpose of the washers? which BTW I have 6 on.


----------



## dunn4 (Feb 16, 2008)

I went through this same scenario and e-mailed back and forth with Equalizer (who was very responsive). Equalizer guy said that adding a washer is equal to raising/lowering the L-bracket. I tried the bracket adjustments and found it to be horrible for porpoising down the road. Since I don't have the right tools for adding a washer, I asked the dealer to add a washer while in for warranty work. I left the L-brackets in the five slot and have six washers now. The measurements are within 1/4 inch and we have the best ride I have had towing since buying the OB last year.

I had to get use to that loud popping and squeal and but have not noticed any additional wear on the bars or L-pins than was already showing. I have been told by more than the dealer that the noise and wear is normal. The ride is much better since the adjustment. I don't think there is a magic setting that works for all tow vehicles or trailers, it just seems to be a hit/miss and feel thing.

Another factor is weight, which varies depending on how long and where we are going. Sometimes the bikes go and sometime not, clothing for a longer trip, groceries bought before heading to a location without good stores, dutch oven, wood, etc. I like to think that most of the time that kind of weight equals out and doesn't seem to make much difference.

I would like to try a Hensley Arrow or Pro-ride hitch(?) one day. I understand they are the best. Good luck.


----------



## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

The purpose of the washers is to angle the hitch head down (back). Doing that causes the spring bars to angle down more as well. So, on any given setup, the father you angle back the hitch head, the more tension will be on the bars when you put them onto the L-brackets.

I should have noted before that our dealer setup our Equalizer. It was setup about right according to the instructions. However, after our pull home (and some scary sway), I raised the L-brackets one notch. That solved that problem. For our F250, I left the L-brackets where they were and just added a washer. The ride in our SuperDuty is great. No complaints from anyone - DW, Mom, kids included. Of course, the ride in our SuperDuty is great anyways!!!









-CC


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I suggest you wait until you are loaded for camping before you invest too much time in the set up. This goes for ANY brand of weight distribution hitch.


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

CamperAndy said:


> I suggest you wait until you are loaded for camping before you invest too much time in the set up. This goes for ANY brand of weight distribution hitch.


Thanks - after thinking about the adjustments, measurements, etc. there is not much more to adjust. I think it best to wait also. I also am looking into getting the TT to a scale to make some measurements after loading. There are few places here in Lancaster County that I can call.


----------



## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

Quick question - we pulled our new 310BHS home this past weekend and I after breaking in the trailer at a beautiful lake in central Texas, my hitch began making a VERY loud groaning sound during turns. I also noticed that my TV steering wheel was out of "true" for a while. I inspected my hitch, and there was some pretty good wear on the right distrbution arm socket that is attached to the hitch (sorry if I'm using the wrong terminology).

I'm assuming this is not normal as the other side does not do this. I know I n ed to adjust the height of the bars because my TV is squatting in the rear (gotta love the rv dealerships).

Any thoughts? Should I call equalizer?


----------



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

TexanThompsons said:


> Quick question - we pulled our new 310BHS home this past weekend and I after breaking in the trailer at a beautiful lake in central Texas, my hitch began making a VERY loud groaning sound during turns. I also noticed that my TV steering wheel was out of "true" for a while. I inspected my hitch, and there was some pretty good wear on the right distrbution arm socket that is attached to the hitch (sorry if I'm using the wrong terminology).
> 
> I'm assuming this is not normal as the other side does not do this. I know I n ed to adjust the height of the bars because my TV is squatting in the rear (gotta love the rv dealerships).
> 
> Any thoughts? Should I call equalizer?


Go to the Equal-i-zer web site and download the installation instructions, then start from square one. Most dealers don't do a very good job of setting up WD hitches. To do it right takes time - and time is money - so they just want to get you out the door and off their lot. After that, you are on your own.

It will be a good experience for you to do this, because you will become very intimate with your WD hitch and will understand how the hitch works, what adjustments to make and how they affect your towing experience. You can never know enough about this stuff.

Here's the link: Equal-i-zer Installation

Hope this helps.

Mike


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

TexanThompsons said:


> Quick question - we pulled our new 310BHS home this past weekend and I after breaking in the trailer at a beautiful lake in central Texas, my hitch began making a VERY loud groaning sound during turns. I also noticed that my TV steering wheel was out of "true" for a while. I inspected my hitch, and there was some pretty good wear on the right distrbution arm socket that is attached to the hitch (sorry if I'm using the wrong terminology).
> 
> I'm assuming this is not normal as the other side does not do this. I know I n ed to adjust the height of the bars because my TV is squatting in the rear (gotta love the rv dealerships).
> 
> Any thoughts? Should I call equalizer?


I have the same groaning sound and when I called Keystone they said it was normal with TT's. I would be curious to see what Progress (equalizer) says the problem is. I don't have any excessive where, but, the TT moans and groans on turns. I get lots of looks pulling into campgrounds.

I didn't notice any issue with steering, but, I am noticing with the addition of more weight in the trailer that I will most likely need to adjust it again.

Let us know what equalizer tells you.

Rick


----------



## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Ours does the same thing. I use a little silicone spray to quiet them down, the silicone doesn't impact the sway control of the hitch. There is a lot of pressure on the L brackets from the bars pressing down on them. The noise you hear when turning is the bars sliding across the L brackets. It's normal and a good thing, it tells you there is a lot of pressure on the bars which means the bars are doing their job.

Mike


----------



## john7349 (Jan 13, 2008)

When I purchased our 21RS last year and drove off the dealers lot, I heard a loud bang and metal to metal gringing sounds as I turned corners..







Kind of un-nerving at first, but I remembered hearing about this at Outbackers. Since then, I like to hear some noise. This lets me know things are working as they should.


----------



## N7OQ (Jun 10, 2006)

I have a can of silicone spray and quites it a little but while camping one time I forgot the silicone and tried cooking spray called Pam and it quited it all the way no noise in any turns and no sway also.


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

From Equalizer Web site

http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index....96&parent=4

DescriptionThe NEW Sway Bracket Jacket was designed to quiet the ride and reduce wear on the L-brackets. Injection molded from high density polyethelene plastic (HDPE). Each package contains two (2) SBJ's, one for each L-bracket. 
*ATTENTION:* Utilizing lubrication on the Equal-i-zer L-Bracket, in the form of the Sway Bracket Jacket or any grease type lubricant, will likely lessen or decrease your sway control by a small degree. Steel on steel is the highest level of friction, steel on lubricated steel second, and steel on plastic third (but also the cleanest). The hitch head can be lubricated, as per the instructions, with no detriment to sway control.


----------



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Oregon_Camper said:


> From Equalizer Web site
> 
> http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index....96&parent=4
> 
> ...


And I can vouch for the Sway Bracket Jackets. I field-tested a pair for one of their engineers last season, and they work great. There were a few reports of the first generation of the SBJs disintegrating, but mine never did. (And I had a pair of the 1st gen. that I bought and used the season before.) The SBJs really quiet the hitch, and I didn't notice any degredation in the sway control.

They are worth the price, if you don't like the noise.

Mike


----------



## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

Thanks for the input. As I've been reading (on this thread and on the equalizer website) that the focus is on the L brackets. My issue is where the WD bar is pinned into the actual hitch on the TV. I will take some pictures tonight and upload them. That socket the bar is pinned to is scraping hard against the hitch and is rubbing off the metal on both the socket and the hitch. I'm assuming this isn't the "desired" setup. My biggest worry is that it is affecting the alignment on my TV (a 2008 Chevy duramax long wheel base). That truck should not be that affected by that trailer.

Thanks for the input.

Oh, and we LOVE the trailer. With 3 kiddos it definitely did the trick and even held up in 50 mph gusts during a storm our 2nd night in it.


----------



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

TexanThompsons said:


> Thanks for the input. As I've been reading (on this thread and on the equalizer website) that the focus is on the L brackets. My issue is where the WD bar is pinned into the actual hitch on the TV. I will take some pictures tonight and upload them. That socket the bar is pinned to is scraping hard against the hitch and is rubbing off the metal on both the socket and the hitch. I'm assuming this isn't the "desired" setup. My biggest worry is that it is affecting the alignment on my TV (a 2008 Chevy duramax long wheel base). That truck should not be that affected by that trailer.


Earlier in this thread, I posted a link to the Equal-i-zer website - specifically the page for downloading the installation and operation instructions (if you didn't get them with the hitch, or if you cannot locate them). In those instructions, it directs you to lube those socket joints and gives you the torque spec for the bolts (and all other bolts, as well). You need to lube the top and bottom surfaces of the sockets, to reduce premature wear. I know it sounds funny, seeing as how friction there helps with the sway, but I keep them lubed and the hitch performs wonderfully.

I also put a thin coat of lube (grease) on the friction surfaces of the L-brackets and the ball, too. My hitch is mostly quiet, with no groaning or popping noises. But I do clean those lubed surfaces with a dry shop towel after use, to get dirt and grit off, and then re-apply a thin coat of lube to all surfaces again the next time I tow.

The more you tow, the more you'll learn - as the rest of us have. But keep those questions coming. That's what this website is about - Outbackers helping Outbackers.

Also - if you have not already done so - I'd recommend that you invest in a good torque wrench, extension, and sockets for all the bolts on your hitch - and a socket for your wheel lug nuts. I have a small plastic tool box in the pass-thru storage compartment to keep all the extra pins, lube, sockets, wrenches and socket extension for that stuff. I also keep a clip-board there with all the torque specs listed and a check-sheet for making sure all the details have been addressed before we leave on a trip and when we leave the campground (like disconnecting the sewer hose and lowering the TV antenna).

Just my (experienced) $.02.

Mike


----------



## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

OK, so I read the installation guide (the RV dealer did not supply me with one) and sure enough, the setup measurements are off. There is too much weight on the back of my TV. Looks like this weekend I get to play Dr. on my hitch.

Thanks for the insight guys/gals!


----------



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

When I first bought the equalizer hitch and installed it - I tried to put the sway bar in the hitch and move it. It was very stiff. After a few tries, I managed to pull it out a bit and used some white lithium grease on both the top and bottom working the sway bar back and forth. I still get the noise, but, don't have any excessive wear.


----------



## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

TexanThompsons said:


> OK, so I read the installation guide (the RV dealer did not supply me with one) and sure enough, the setup measurements are off. There is too much weight on the back of my TV. Looks like this weekend I get to play Dr. on my hitch.
> 
> Thanks for the insight guys/gals!


It's really not too difficult to adjust it. Since you already have it installed, you have some baseline measurements to start with. Find a level spot where you can hitch and unhitch the trailer a few times.

Draw a picture of your truck and trailer, then write down the following:

> Height of trailer frame just behind the hitch
> Height of the trailer frame at the rear (ahead of the bumper)
> The holes you are using on the hitch head shank
> The holes you are using on the L-brackets 
> The number of washers (spacers) that angle the head down
> The height of your truck's wheel wells before any tongue weight is put on the ball (unhitched)
> The height of your truck's wheel wells after the trailer is on the ball (hitched)

Then start making adjustments to:

1. Shank height - level the trailer on the ball - this keeps the trailer's weight spread evenly over the front and rear tires. If you cannot get it level (by adjusting the shank height), then err on the side of "tongue-low." My trailer is 3/4" lower in front than in the rear. (Keeping the trailer weight evenly distributed on all four tires decreases your chances of overloading the front or rear tires.) Note that when you get step 2 complete, it will most likely cause your trailer tongue to sit a little higher, which is another good reason to adjust on the "tongue-low" side of level.

2. Get nearly the same "squat" on the truck's front wheel wells as the rear (keeping your truck level and evenly distributing the weight. Angling the head down more (add washers) or raising the L-brackets on the trailer frame will throw more weight forward - which sounds like what you need to do. (Your installation instructions say that you're OK with up to a 3/4" difference between the two. I think mine came out 1/2" - lower in the rear.)

_Another thing to consider is to try and determine if the hitch head bolts were over-torqued at the dealer. If the bolts are stretched from over torquing them, they aren't recommended for further use. Not sure what grade they are, but you might want to get a new set of bolts, nuts and washers._

Hope these tips help. I got mine set up properly - including removing the previous hitch from the dealer - in a little over four hours (counting a beer break or two). At least your dealer sold you a good hitch to begin with! (I paid $500 for WD hitch, friction sway control, and labor on the one from the dealer. Then I paid another $400 for the Equal-i-zer hitch the next year. Best $400 I ever spent!

Mike


----------

