# What To Do With A Sagging Underbelly



## thefulminator

Opened up the 21RS for the first time this year and found that the glue holding the plastic underbelly to the bottom of the rear slide let loose on one side. It had pulled away on the door side from the front of the slide to about half way back. At that point there is a tear about an inch long where the still attached part is under the metal side moulding but the loose part is hanging down. I fixed it temporarily with 3M outdoor double sided tape. That's the grey stuff that doesn't like to let go of anything.

My question is, for a permanent fix, has anyone used screws to reattach the plastic? I am thinking about the washer head screws used for installing corregated plastic or metal roofs. They would be water tight. I was thinking about going around the perimeter around every foot or so and also some field fasteners in the middle. As long as I avoid the areas that the rollers use I don't think there would be a problem. The one thing I don't know is how thick the bottom of the slide out is. Is there an aluminum frame in the bottom? If so I should be able to find the frame with a stud finder and screw into it.


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## thefulminator

Come on guys. Someone has to have done some sort of repair like this.


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## Nathan

I thought the underbelly rolled in on rollers. Screws would mess that up.

I think Andy had reccomended gluing and then holding in place until the glue dries...









BTW, I was going to suggest that the best fix to a sagging belly is more exercise and less beer.


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## Chuggs

If you can get a hold of some more of the plastic...you might cut some reinforcement strips and glue them on with a good 3M product. Auto body shops might be a good source. Then with the plastic reinforced with two layers...I think those washered screws would work nicely. You just have to make sure you're not going to drill into something you don't want a hole in... Propane gas line, electrical wire, holding tank, a/c ductwork, etc...

The same stuff would make for good field repair kit too...

POM rivets might work...

Harbor Freight sells them...again auto body places might be a good supply point.

http://www.harborfreight.com/rivets-20-plastic-63mmx252m-67566.html

They're the plastic rivets used to hold things like plastic wheel well liners in position.

You just have to make sure your installation is streamlined. If you have an edge that can catch the wind going down the road...it can rip the whole shootin' match right off the bottom of the camper.


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## thefulminator

The rollers only contact on two strips about 3" wide. I am thinking that as long as I avoid those areas and don't have screws/rivets that damage the rubber seal that I should be alright.


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## jasonrebecca

First of all, I just have to poke fun for just now opening up your trailer.

Second, I think your theory of finding the aluminum framing for the Rear Slide and using those screws should work.


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## thefulminator

The kids only got out of school last week so we didn't have any trips planned before then. I called Keystone to ask them about the construction of the slide out. They said that there should be 2" square aluminum tubing in that floor but that there were some that were only plywood as well. I'll use the stud finder to see if I can locate the frame. Once I find it I like the idea of the POM rivets. May install those with some silicone caulking to be sure no water can get in.


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## john7349

On my 21RS, I believe mine has the plywood floor. I think the screws would work, but somewhat overkill. I think I would go the glue route. IMHO


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## thefulminator

The problem I see with glue is that you have to pull down the under belly far enough to get the glue between it and the bottom of the slide out. After that, you have to brace it from below to while the glue cures. Also, since the rollers contact the under belly when the slide is out and holds it in place. I am planning on doing as much of the work as I can with the slide in. There isn't much room to maneuver between the sofa and dinette.


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## Serious4play

Hate to revive an old thread but what did you finally use to fix this problem? I have the same issue except my plastic is cut in 2 pieces and has started to fall away. There is plenty of room to get in between the plastic and the wood so I thought maybe using liquid nail.


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## thefulminator

The first problem was that the underbelly had pulled out of it's molding on one side. Since the slide out sits on the rollers when extended I had to push the slide out in and work on it laying on the trailer floor from the inside. I could feel the underbelly material trying to stick back into place when I would push it up. I figured that if I could just hold it up the friction from the existing glue would keep it from slide back out of the molding. It looks to me like once the belly started to sag, it's own weight pulled it loose and out of the molding. I ended up installing some short small diameter screws on a roughly one foot grid being sure to miss the areas where the rollers would contact when sliding in or out. I laid it out so that there was a row of screws down the middle of the slide out and the last row was just inside of the moldings on both sides. No problems since then.


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## Tyvekcat

Very Professional looking fix. I will check mine next week.


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## crunchman12002

thefulminator said:


> The first problem was that the underbelly had pulled out of it's molding on one side. Since the slide out sits on the rollers when extended I had to push the slide out in and work on it laying on the trailer floor from the inside. I could feel the underbelly material trying to stick back into place when I would push it up. I figured that if I could just hold it up the friction from the existing glue would keep it from slide back out of the molding. It looks to me like once the belly started to sag, it's own weight pulled it loose and out of the molding. I ended up installing some short small diameter screws on a roughly one foot grid being sure to miss the areas where the rollers would contact when sliding in or out. I laid it out so that there was a row of screws down the middle of the slide out and the last row was just inside of the moldings on both sides. No problems since then.


thefulminator,
Just wanted to ask...Was the bottom plywood or metal studs? Did you use the same screws as posted in your first post?
Thanks in advance for your reply,
crunchman


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## thefulminator

It is a solid sheet. I think it was plywood but could have been particle board or wafer board. Since I didn't pull down the underbelly vinyl sheet I can't be sure. The upper surface under the mattress looks like plywood but might be more thin stuff for appearance. The screws I used were either pan or round head phillips head #6 and only around 1/2"-5/8" long. I can check when I get home. Think I still have the remainder of the box somewhere. I did drill pilot holes using a drill stop just to be safe and installed with a cordless drill on a low torque setting. I also put a little silicone sealant on the threads to keep them from backing out due to vibration when towing.


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## Serious4play

I know under mine it is plywood. Based on the construction of the rest of the trailer I am assuming aluminum studs under it.


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## Stance

Mine just started doing this too. I saw it for the first time when I got it out of storage this weekend. From what I can see, it looks like it's just plywood.


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## tomstacey616

Nice... mine is doing the same thing... Thanks for sharing!!!


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## Stance

Mine seemed to fix it self last week. I guess it may be temperature related since it has been ~15-20 deg cooler. Maybe it expands more than the rest of the slide and buckles? Just guessing.


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## Stance

Mine popped off again and the dealer reglued it. I hope it lasts this time.


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## rcman

thefulminator said:


> Opened up the 21RS for the first time this year and found that the glue holding the plastic underbelly to the bottom of the rear slide let loose on one side. It had pulled away on the door side from the front of the slide to about half way back. At that point there is a tear about an inch long where the still attached part is under the metal side moulding but the loose part is hanging down. I fixed it temporarily with 3M outdoor double sided tape. That's the grey stuff that doesn't like to let go of anything.
> 
> My question is, for a permanent fix, has anyone used screws to reattach the plastic? I am thinking about the washer head screws used for installing corregated plastic or metal roofs. They would be water tight. I was thinking about going around the perimeter around every foot or so and also some field fasteners in the middle. As long as I avoid the areas that the rollers use I don't think there would be a problem. The one thing I don't know is how thick the bottom of the slide out is. Is there an aluminum frame in the bottom? If so I should be able to find the frame with a stud finder and screw into it.


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## rcman

My under-belly plastic was sagging too and also it had a leak when the slide was put in. Drilled numerous small holes to find joists and let water out. Used self tapping sheet metal screws with binder heads into joists that are aluminum. Seems to be ok now. I would not use hex head screws as this may tear up the slide seals.

Dave


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## Danodog

We too had the sagging underbelly on a 2013 250RS. The tech advisor said that the inside of the rear slide flexed when his employee was on the luan ply. My wife and I never noticed it because we had the mattress and the 3 inch foam topper. He lead me to believe that this was more of a structural issue with the slide itself instead of the exterior plastic coating not being glued on correctly. He told me that the thin luan plywood with foam and another thin piece of luan was holding us up! He saw the look on my face and he said he was just as surprised when the tech showed him what is going on. I am a big dude around 300 and my wife is less than 130. I was told by the original dealer who sold me the bed, that it is rated for 1000 pounds. We are no where even close to that. I do not know if this was a defect that left the factory without the 2x4 frame or if the slides are just built that way. He did show me the plywood under the mattress. They also added a two foot strip of luan at the end of the bed to cover the plywood. It looks nicer that way if the covers aren't on the mattress.

Here is the official dealer response to the repair of the rear slide.

"_*Started repair removed bed frame and added 2x4 Frame where LOU seam ADDED 1/2 plywood to frame resecure w/liquid nails and drywall screws.*_"


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## saharding

Hi, I am a newbie on this site so I need help. I have a 23 RS rear slide that the underbelly of the slide is not sagging but has completely cracked and needs repair. What can I use? Please help out.


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## Tourdfox

crunchman12002 said:


> The first problem was that the underbelly had pulled out of it's molding on one side. Since the slide out sits on the rollers when extended I had to push the slide out in and work on it laying on the trailer floor from the inside. I could feel the underbelly material trying to stick back into place when I would push it up. I figured that if I could just hold it up the friction from the existing glue would keep it from slide back out of the molding. It looks to me like once the belly started to sag, it's own weight pulled it loose and out of the molding. I ended up installing some short small diameter screws on a roughly one foot grid being sure to miss the areas where the rollers would contact when sliding in or out. I laid it out so that there was a row of screws down the middle of the slide out and the last row was just inside of the moldings on both sides. No problems since then.


thefulminator,
Just wanted to ask...Was the bottom plywood or metal studs? Did you use the same screws as posted in your first post?
Thanks in advance for your reply,
crunchman
[/quote]

Are you planning on doing this on your new unit as preventative ,maintenance.The nice job you did has me thinking about doing just that.


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## thefulminator

I haven't even looked to see if the new trailer has the same configuration. Will take a look next time I'm at the storage lot.


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## Tourdfox

Had a real good look at the rear bed slide today.I have no signs of water getting in but i did touch up a few spots i thought could be possible in the future.I really looked closely at the underside of the bed.As Fulminator mentioned earlier on his older unit that when push up against the black plastic sheeting you could hear it try to stick back to the luan.This is also the case with the newer models.Mine is not bad but has started in a few spots.Time to get out the cordless and do a Fulminator fix before it gets worse.This is an old problem that Keystone still hasn't rectified on the newer units apparently.Come on Keystone get in the GAME.

Found the perfect screw for the fix.









[attachment=10873:IMG_4722.JPG

I ordered these same ones in black.2 days away.I noticed today the newer bed slides have 3 rollers verses 2 like in a previous picture.So the screw pattern will be a bit different.But still sags a bit just the same.Having the extra roller in the middle will definately help.I'm only screwing mine as a preventitive step.


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## spidey

I think I will be doing this, although mine is now cracked. Will do some JB weld and some stop leak spray.

When you put in the screws, did you cover them with anything so they wouldn't rub or tear the rubber seal?


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## saharding

Stupid question., What is a JB WELD?



spidey said:


> I think I will be doing this, although mine is now cracked. Will do some JB weld and some stop leak spray.
> 
> When you put in the screws, did you cover them with anything so they wouldn't rub or tear the rubber seal?


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## spidey

saharding said:


> I think I will be doing this, although mine is now cracked. Will do some JB weld and some stop leak spray.
> 
> When you put in the screws, did you cover them with anything so they wouldn't rub or tear the rubber seal?


[/quote]

Its basically a product that welds plastic together. Like a glue but different. Once its set, its good forver (at least from what I have seen)

I think using that, the Stop Seal Spray and the screws will fix what I have instead of replacing all of it. Im contacting Keystone today, not that it will help and ask why they cheaped out on this. Its an obvious issue


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## Stance

Stance said:


> Mine popped off again and the dealer reglued it. I hope it lasts this time.


Mine is coming back off again. I'm considering mechanically attaching mine too. Although, I may use shingle nails since they are so flat.


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## saharding

Mine was in so many pieces that I can not glue it back. I do not know what to put on it know. Any ideas?



Stance said:


> Mine popped off again and the dealer reglued it. I hope it lasts this time.


Mine is coming back off again. I'm considering mechanically attaching mine too. Although, I may use shingle nails since they are so flat.
[/quote]


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## thefulminator

saharding said:


> Mine popped off again and the dealer reglued it. I hope it lasts this time.


Mine is coming back off again. I'm considering mechanically attaching mine too. Although, I may use shingle nails since they are so flat.
[/quote]
[/quote]

It looks to me like you should be able to repair yours in the same way I did mine.


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## spidey

thefulminator said:


> Mine popped off again and the dealer reglued it. I hope it lasts this time.


Mine is coming back off again. I'm considering mechanically attaching mine too. Although, I may use shingle nails since they are so flat.
[/quote]
[/quote]

It looks to me like you should be able to repair yours in the same way I did mine.
[/quote]

I think yours would be the best way, and the way it should of been done from factory. While mine is in pieces it is all there, Im going to pick up the screws and other stuff this week to fix it


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## spidey

Contacted Keystone to basically a PFO response. Didnt expect much more. I told him that there are a lot of people having this issue, and he said this is the first he heard of it (obvious lie)

I told him I can provide you many people that are, but even if I did wouldnt matter. More or less this is a way to cut costs on the install, and we are left holding the bag


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## spidey

I was going to fix this then thought to maybe look for a replacement piece instead. Took a small piece of it so I had the proper width and a home reno place had some stuff called poly board. KInd of like what they use on the walls on hockey boards. $42 for a piece big enough for the whole thing. Thought it would be faster and more secure than fixing the broken stuff, and attach it correctly

Anyone use this stuff before?


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## spidey

Ok, trying this tonight and discovering something I don't like, water damage. Instead of repairing what we had, I decided to replace the plastic since it was so cracked and broke. But had to take the old plastic off. Doing this disoovered water damage at the back driver side corner, and water when I pulled the platic out. No idea how this got in here, but If I fixed what I had it would of just rotted away.

Now that everything is off, I see its just two pieces of cheap plywood. Not one solid piece either, but two.

I was thinking, since I have to replace this back piece of plywood anyway, would it be a better idea to use a solid piece of plywood thick enough to match the width of the plastic and the old plywood, and not use plastic at all. Just get some wood and stain it with a good stain. Caulk the edges where the metal is, and then not have to worry about water getting trapped again and rotting the wood. Basically replace the two pieces they have with one big thick piece.

Good idea, thinking of all my options. We go camping for 3 weeks in 5 days, and now this repair is bigger than I thought.


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## Triple R

thefulminator said:


> It is a solid sheet. I think it was plywood but could have been particle board or wafer board. Since I didn't pull down the underbelly vinyl sheet I can't be sure. The upper surface under the mattress looks like plywood but might be more thin stuff for appearance. The screws I used were either pan or round head phillips head #6 and only around 1/2"-5/8" long. I can check when I get home. Think I still have the remainder of the box somewhere. I did drill pilot holes using a drill stop just to be safe and installed with a cordless drill on a low torque setting. I also put a little silicone sealant on the threads to keep them from backing out due to vibration when towing.


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## Leedek

This is pretty close to the original belly material on my 2011 210RS. Corrogated Plastic


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## thefulminator

Leedek said:


> This is pretty close to the original belly material on my 2011 210RS. Corrogated Plastic


This stuff looks to be similar to the underbelly below the trailer frame. The material under the rear slide was a thick solid sheet with no void space or corrugations.


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## Triple R

Triple R said:


> It is a solid sheet. I think it was plywood but could have been particle board or wafer board. Since I didn't pull down the underbelly vinyl sheet I can't be sure. The upper surface under the mattress looks like plywood but might be more thin stuff for appearance. The screws I used were either pan or round head phillips head #6 and only around 1/2"-5/8" long. I can check when I get home. Think I still have the remainder of the box somewhere. I did drill pilot holes using a drill stop just to be safe and installed with a cordless drill on a low torque setting. I also put a little silicone sealant on the threads to keep them from backing out due to vibration when towing.


[/quote]


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## Triple R

Triple R said:


> It is a solid sheet. I think it was plywood but could have been particle board or wafer board. Since I didn't pull down the underbelly vinyl sheet I can't be sure. The upper surface under the mattress looks like plywood but might be more thin stuff for appearance. The screws I used were either pan or round head phillips head #6 and only around 1/2"-5/8" long. I can check when I get home. Think I still have the remainder of the box somewhere. I did drill pilot holes using a drill stop just to be safe and installed with a cordless drill on a low torque setting. I also put a little silicone sealant on the threads to keep them from backing out due to vibration when towing.


[/quote]


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## Triple R

Triple R said:


> It is a solid sheet. I think it was plywood but could have been particle board or wafer board. Since I didn't pull down the underbelly vinyl sheet I can't be sure. The upper surface under the mattress looks like plywood but might be more thin stuff for appearance. The screws I used were either pan or round head phillips head #6 and only around 1/2"-5/8" long. I can check when I get home. Think I still have the remainder of the box somewhere. I did drill pilot holes using a drill stop just to be safe and installed with a cordless drill on a low torque setting. I also put a little silicone sealant on the threads to keep them from backing out due to vibration when towing.


[/quote]


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## Triple R

We are also having the same issue with a 2015 keystone outback Terrain TRS. It is currently under a warranty but I'm afraid they will fix it the same way. Ours has buckled away from the molding on one side sue to the glue not holding. It also appears that the screws did not make contact with the plastic backing. Is it supposed to just tuck inside the molding?


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## spidey

Triple R said:


> We are also having the same issue with a 2015 keystone outback Terrain TRS. It is currently under a warranty but I'm afraid they will fix it the same way. Ours has buckled away from the molding on one side sue to the glue not holding. It also appears that the screws did not make contact with the plastic backing. Is it supposed to just tuck inside the molding?


So they are still using the same way, glue to hold, that doesn't hold because of the weight of the plastic and gravity.

It "supposed" to tuck underneath the sides so then the screws hold it, but seems like that's not happening for many with this issue.

I don't know why they don't use low profile screws and screw the plastic into the aluminum rails of the bed. But then every screw is extra cost to them, so every cut back they do saves them money to make more money.

The fix I did is way more solid, and while where the plastic basically shattered isn't plastic now but fir ply wood. And then I just caulked and stained, and screwed it secure.

I wouldn't let them fix it to the same as factory, it will just happen again. If they do, you could always screw the plastic yourself, as long as you can find the aluminum rails to screw it to


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## Fisher's Outback

I fixed my underbelly tonight with self tapping screws that are size 10 and are 1 inch long with a Phillips head. I couldn't screw into the aluminum rails because they are lined up with the rollers so I really only screwed into the wood I believe. I got 20 screws in it. Time will tell if it will hold it up in place.


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## spidey

Fisher said:


> I fixed my underbelly tonight with self tapping screws that are size 10 and are 1 inch long with a Phillips head. I couldn't screw into the aluminum rails because they are lined up with the rollers so I really only screwed into the wood I believe. I got 20 screws in it. Time will tell if it will hold it up in place.


That's the screws I used, but I got into the rails. But only the rails that aren't on the rollers. It should hold, the wood underneath is very flimsy, but should still be enough to stop gravity. Basically you did what should of been done from factory. But screws cost more than glue, so that's extra cost to them


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## Triple R

Thank you for your reply. But did you put the screws in while the slide was out? Also, it has come out of the molding on one side of it. How did you get yours to go back into the side molding?


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## Fisher's Outback

I forgot to mention I did use stainless steel screws so they won't rust..picked them up at my local farm and fleet store. Triple R it's funny you ask about it coming out because the day I went to pick it up last August it was already falling down and one side was out just a little bit out of the side Chanel. I just loosened the screws a little bit and shoved it back up in there. I did put the screws in it with the slide in the out position. Now don't you think they would of tried to fix. It at the dealership before I got there?? They had over a week to fix it cause I pretty much made the deal over the phone. It was a 3 hour drive one way so I wasn't gonna turn around and come home without it and they probably knew that. It's just frustrating when you spend that much money and you have to fix crap on it before you even use it. I did put a board on my floor jack and then another board across the bottom of the slide out and put some pressure on it before I ran the screws in. Hope this info helps everyone who is having the same problem. JOE


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## Triple R

Thanks Joe. By the way my name is Richard, and share your same feelings about the terrain. Did you put pressure on it so the glue can kind of adhere again before you placed the screws? We currently don't own floor jacks, just trying to picture how you used it. Thans again. Rich


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## Fisher's Outback

Nice to meet you Richard. Yes I wanted it back up in place before I started to screw it just so I wouldn't get a wrinkle in the black plastic underbelly material. You could actually just take a 2 by 6 and lay it up there and have someone hold it for ya and then cut a 2 by 4 a little longer than the measurement from the ground to the bottom of the slide and then slide the 2 by 4 up underneath and put pressure on it on to the 2 by 6, hard to explain but hope you know what I mean. I did noitice that the material on the bottom doesn't go far enough into the side Chanel's for the screws to even hold the material from sliding out. The black material is solely held on by the crap glue they use. UGH!!


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## Triple R

Wow. That is exactly what I found with the 2015 260 that we have. The backing is too short! And the glue sucks!! Ours is till under warrranty. I have an appointment on July 9th with Camping World. Doubt it will be a lasting fix. You seemed to have done a fine job with yours. Totally get how to use one board and prop with the other. Thanks again my friend for the great advice


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## spidey

Triple R said:


> Thank you for your reply. But did you put the screws in while the slide was out? Also, it has come out of the molding on one side of it. How did you get yours to go back into the side molding?


I did all my repairs with the slide out. I ws able to save some of the plastic on the slide out, and any cracks I sprayed with a rubber spray to seal them better. While it doesn't "look pretty" its in my opion done right and sealed a lot better. Besides its the bottom of a slide out, who cares what it looks like.

It was a real pain to repair it all is all I know, since the wood I used to replace was thicker and not as flexible as the crappy thin wood they used.


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## spidey

Fisher said:


> Nice to meet you Richard. Yes I wanted it back up in place before I started to screw it just so I wouldn't get a wrinkle in the black plastic underbelly material. You could actually just take a 2 by 6 and lay it up there and have someone hold it for ya and then cut a 2 by 4 a little longer than the measurement from the ground to the bottom of the slide and then slide the 2 by 4 up underneath and put pressure on it on to the 2 by 6, hard to explain but hope you know what I mean. I did noitice that the material on the bottom doesn't go far enough into the side Chanel's for the screws to even hold the material from sliding out. The black material is solely held on by the crap glue they use. UGH!!


I noticed that to, the black plastic doesn't go under all the metal trim. Basically a crappy design made to fail eventually. So far my fix has held up last summer and the last 2 weeks camping. I painted the wood I used a dark brown to kinda match the black plastic I was able to salvage.


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## BrvtvsBvckeye

Thanks to the suggestions here I was able to re-attach my sagging plastic with 3/4 in. Truss-Head Screws.

Wide and flat head that do not seem to snag or interfere with the rubber gasket under the bed. Since I had a bit left over from another project, I did put a touch of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive on each screw to help seal it and hopefully reduce the chance of them backing out.


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