# Winterizing with compressed air



## Conrich (Oct 6, 2004)

Just traded in a keystone Cougar 245 for a Outback 28frls. Started camping 3 years ago but moved up to the Outback because we wanted more room especially when we're with the grandchildren. On the Cougar I winterized with RV antifreeze pulling off the suction side of the pump. The water pump on the Outback is in a confining space so I thought I'd try using compressed air instead. Read about using the city water connection but not alot of detail about how to do it. Anyone winterize this way that can give me advice? How do I know I've blown out the water completely?
Great site! Looking forward to being part of the Outback community.


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

I to have a 28F RLS. I decided not to use the compressed air method mostly because I'm lazy and my air compressor is at the house and rv is in storage. Anyway, I have opted to modify my pump with the kit from Campers World. http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/in...c=SRCH&tcode=37

When I install the kit this weekend, I'm going to put velcro on the panels that go to the pump and the water heater by-pass valve. It will take a while this winter to get things squared away, but the following winters ought to be much easier.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

I put on a antifreeze kit. I will only use that method. It's too cold around here for rolling the dice with the compressed air method. I've seen too many burst hoses/fittings in my camping days. There is good info on the OUTBACKERS FAQ on the main page, and in the manual.


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## j1mfrog (Jun 6, 2004)

I was going to winterize with compressed air last year but changed my mind after hearing of some incidents people have had. It really difficult to get the lines blown dry with compressed air.

I did my own little unscientific test. First I blew out all the lines with compressed air until no water was coming out of the faucets. Then I ran RV antifreeze through all the lines watching how much clear water came out before the pink. It was a lot. More than I was comfortable with. Maybe it was only a gallon, it's hard to tell because I didn't catch it. Either way, it was definitely enough to freeze and burst those small nylon water lines, I was pretty sure of that.

Only antifreeze for me from now on.


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

Our dealer put on a winterizing course for new owners. One thing they stressed was that for the cost of a few dollars worth of antifreeze (2 gallons is enough for most trailers), you get the best insurance against frozen pipes.

I do blow mine out before adding the antifreeze. I think it ensures as much water is removed as possible??

Conrich, you can purchase a simple adapter for the city water connection which has a standard tire valve on it. Makes it easy to use any compressor to blow out the lines.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

After you run the anti-freeze through the system, don't forget to go outside to the city water connection, pull out the screen, and poke the something in there to release the water that's trapped in there. If there is pressure, push until you see anti-freeze, then install screen.

(and don't forget the outside shower!)


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## chipb43 (Mar 22, 2004)

Anyone have a link to an add-on winterization kit that is sold online?


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

Here ya go.... http://www.campingworld.com/browse/categor...ID=186&subOf=13


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

Humm and I was thinking of going to the air compressor this year to avoid the nasty taste in the water lines at the end of the year. Maybe I can run the stuff through and then blow most of it out. You guys didn't help me go shopping for an air compressor you know


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

I sanitize the water system each spring. We don't drink the water from the water system anyway. I drag a water cooler with ice water in it, and have another jug for making coffee. I couldn't drink most campground water...it's horrible.

I've never noticed any smell/traces of antifreeze left in the system while washing/showering. I flush it out really good.


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

Hey Y-Guy, if you need to justify the air compressor to the boss (we all know who that is!), you just have to mention that it is for the trailer! I find it amazing how lenient the powers to be are when it comes to "trailer stuff."

Oh, and you can easily justify it for things such as winterizing, maintaining tire pressure, taking the wheels on and off to check the brakes and bearings, etc. I find its way cool to talk air tools with your buddies!


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Compressed air anyone? I can do everyone's trailer all at once, we can make it a winterizing rally


















MIke


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

Yeap! That's a good sized compressor alright. What's that put out? About 7cfm? more? Put's my little compressor to shame. I can only get about 3 cfm. Have to run my air tools in 15 minute spurts.


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

Holy Guacamole Mike! But I must say you appear to be off your rocker!


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Yes, I am slightly off my rocker,lol.

I keep throwing that thing in the dumpster and my brother keeps digging it out saying he's going to fix it.

vdub,

That's a Quincy compressor, stands about 5 1/2 feet tall, 20 hp, 3 phase, puts out about 60-70cfm @ 100psi. It pulls 275 amps on start up







. We mostly use it on constant run (only draws 40 amps when idling). On constant run, it makes compressed air when called for and blows off the air thru the incoming filter system when there is no demand for air. Much less wear and tear when it runs all the time. We can run 3-4 air sanders, run the finishing booth, etc. with no problem.

The white hankison box on the left is a refrigerated air dryer. Incoming air is cooled so moisture condenses out and then the air is heated back up. If it didn't re heat the air, you couldn't hold onto the air tools because they get so cold.

Mike


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