# Caulking Of Tub



## Madden6 (Oct 17, 2004)

Once again I need to look to my camper friends for advice








The caulking on our tub needs to be replaced. Actually the original stuff just came peeling off so my DH tried this tub and shower caulk and that too just came off








Has anyone had to do this before??? Could you recommend a brand?
The location is where the wall meets the tub, all the way around.

On a lighter note, we have had a great time camping this year and I am very sad to see the summmer go







We only have one other trip planned.
Never did upgrade this year, we put in a pool instead!


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

We used a brand that Home Depot carries -- something like Silicone II -- its flexible and has worked fine... as long as it is flexible and does not dry out thats your main concern...


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Ghosty said:


> We used a brand that Home Depot carries -- something like Silicone II -- its flexible and has worked fine... as long as it is flexible and does not dry out thats your main concern...


Same stuff I use. Works well and does not dry out.

Thor


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## Madden6 (Oct 17, 2004)

I knew you guys would come through for me!! 
THANKS AGAIN!!!!!


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## Just_a_Jake (Aug 23, 2007)

When you do caulk the tub you need to do something 1st.

Fill the tub up with as much water as possible to weight the tub. What this does is brings the tub down to its lowest point. Then caulk the tub, let it dry and let the water out.

If you dont do it this way you risk the seems pulling apart when you stand in the tub to shower.

Does this make sense?


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## NobleEagle (Jul 8, 2006)

Just_a_Jake said:


> When you do caulk the tub you need to do something 1st.
> 
> Fill the tub up with as much water as possible to weight the tub. What this does is brings the tub down to its lowest point. Then caulk the tub, let it dry and let the water out.
> 
> ...


Although there should be some flexibility in the floor for weight, I would think there shouldn't be enough to tear the flexible silicone caulk that should have enough play for condensation in the first place. Also, if I am not mistaken, the manuals say not to caulk the tub/wall as to let air get between the two and let it vent. The tub surround goes up the wall enough that there shouldn't be any chance of water damage. Just my 2¢.


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## Just_a_Jake (Aug 23, 2007)

NobleEagle said:


> Also, if I am not mistaken, the manuals say not to caulk the tub/wall as to let air get between the two and let it vent. The tub surround goes up the wall enough that there shouldn't be any chance of water damage. Just my 2¢.


Oh if thats the case then I wouldnt caulk at all either. I was referncing the proper way to do it on regular home tub and figured the technique would carry over to an RV.


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## wolfwood (Sep 19, 2005)

NobleEagle said:


> ...... the manuals say not to caulk the tub/wall as to let air get between the two and let it vent. The tub surround goes up the wall enough that there shouldn't be any chance of water damage. Just my 2¢.


EXACTLY my thinking....I was on my way back to the beginning to see what I had missed. Leave the bottom UN-caulked so any moisture accumulation between walls & tub surround will dry. The tub lip is high enough to protect against splashing-in from underneath.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

wolfwood said:


> ...... the manuals say not to caulk the tub/wall as to let air get between the two and let it vent. The tub surround goes up the wall enough that there shouldn't be any chance of water damage. Just my 2¢.


EXACTLY my thinking....I was on my way back to the beginning to see what I had missed. Leave the bottom UN-caulked so any moisture accumulation between walls & tub surround will dry. The tub lip is high enough to protect against splashing-in from underneath.
[/quote]

I'm with Wolfie on this one. Our Service Advisor, during our PDI, specifically pointed out the gap between the surround panels and the tub and made sure we understood that we should NOT caulk this gap. He told us that the tub has a lip that goes up several inches above and behind the bottom of the tub-surround panels and that if moisture gets inside, there is no way for it to drain and dry out. Caulking this gap could retain the moisture and eventually cause damage to the wall material and would probably provide a good place for mold to start growing.

He said we could caulk the top, to prevent water from running down behind the surround panels, but he would just leave it alone - and that is what he does with his trailer. (Now there's a novel approach - a Service Advisor who speaks from personal experience!)

Others here have acknowledged that they were told the same thing by their dealers, as well. So ours remains as it was when we took delivery - no caulking. Besides, the only time we use the shower is on the few occasions that we have electric-only hookups and if the campground does not have clean shower facilities. If we're paying for the use of showers, then I'm gonna use them. (Our state parks reduce the per night fee from $15 to $13 when they close down and winterize the buildings with the showers/flush toilets.)

Just my $.02.

Mike


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## freefaller25 (Mar 19, 2006)

GE Silicone II Gutter & Flashing Clear will not come off as easily. Green label with gold band at the top (10 performance rating with plastic/ABS/PVC). 100% sealed = no water in so no need to dry. The plastic anchors also need to be caulked to prevent weeping. Pick up a finishing tool to shape the Silicone for a nice look. I guess we're ok with the poised risk of trapped moisture to prevent the every shower occurrence of water on the floor. We use the shower every time we camp.

Tony


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Your adhesion will only be as good as the prep-work. Use some lacquer thinner to clean the area first. A little on the corner of a clean terry cloth will do fine.


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## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

Just_a_Jake said:


> When you do caulk the tub you need to do something 1st.
> 
> Fill the tub up with as much water as possible to weight the tub. What this does is brings the tub down to its lowest point. Then caulk the tub, let it dry and let the water out.
> 
> ...


I'm guessing if I stand inside the tub when I elect to do the caulking, that'll be more than enough weight.









I'm also guessing that a silicone-based caulking compound would contract and expand as necessary. But your point is well taken!


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## Reverie (Aug 9, 2004)

Typically I defer to the experts but not on this one. I followed the advice and didn't caulk my tub surround. In July I spent $500 fixing the damage caused by moisture rotting my floor, ALL OF WHICH EMANATED FROM THE TUB! If you have the misfortune, as I did, to have to remove the tub surround, you will see that the surround sits in front of to top lip of the tub. When my tub was installed at the factory it had a good sized hole in the corner which someone had the foresight to caulk before they installed the surround. Well, the caulk fell off. Every single time the tub was used water would spill onto he floor, in an area you can't see. Since we tend to all take baths and showers in the trailer, we have been marinating our floor in water for several years. Finally the floor just gave up and we discovered we had a "little" soft spot. When I investigated the problem I discovered an area approximately five by four feet destroyed with about the same amount of square footage damaged. It took two weeks and lots of sweat and money to fix this problem.

If you use a high quality caulk and clean the surfaces thoroughly before you apply it, you should have a watertight seal that doesn't break. What little moisture you might accummulate inside the wall would pale in comparison to what I witnessed. This problem also induced a problem into my electrical system, resulting in compromised wiring where the shore power is joined to the trailer wiring.

If you think I sound mad, just think; I have had six weeks to get over it. Believe me, the air was filled with expletives and blue anger when I found it... and that was just from the wife.

Reverie


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## Just_a_Jake (Aug 23, 2007)

raynardo said:


> When you do caulk the tub you need to do something 1st.
> 
> Fill the tub up with as much water as possible to weight the tub. What this does is brings the tub down to its lowest point. Then caulk the tub, let it dry and let the water out.
> 
> ...


I'm guessing if I stand inside the tub when I elect to do the caulking, that'll be more than enough weight.









I'm also guessing that a silicone-based caulking compound would contract and expand as necessary. But your point is well taken!
[/quote]You can certainly stand in there if you want but you'll be there for a long time. It takes about 24hrs for it to cure. I am sure you dont want to do that besides you got camping to do.

Like others have said if the owners manual says not to seal the gap then dont do it, though Reveries post above is kinda scary, thanks for the heads up. Here a good refernce for a home tub. Same principles apply.
Recaulking a tub


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## Madden6 (Oct 17, 2004)

Ok I read everyones imput and I am a bit confused.......If there was chaulk there to begin with, why wouldn't I rechaulk the tub???








I like the idea of filling the tub first too, that makes sense!


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

FYI, its caulk (no h).


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Well, Reverie's reply has me thinking that perhaps caulking might be the way to go after all. If water causes damage in either situation, I'd lean towards caulking for the prevention aspect. I have not had the tub and surround panels apart, so Outbacker experience wins out over dealer advice any day, in my book.

Plus, caulking only makes sense (as I thought, before our PDI). But as others have posted earlier in this thread, if you caulk the gap at the bottom of the surround panels, also caulk the seams, the top edge (so splashed water cannot seep behind the panels), and where ever water might be able to seep in behind. That would include the faucet handles and spigot, too. (Remove the trim rings and caulk the openings for the handles.)

I'm not so proud that I cannot bow to those who've "been there - done that." Thanks Reverie, for the insight. (Ain't this site GREAT!)

Mike


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## Madden6 (Oct 17, 2004)

THanks for the spell check








I am typing so fast with my little one at my feet I don;t go back and read what I wrote


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Reverie said:


> Typically I defer to the experts but not on this one. I followed the advice and didn't caulk my tub surround. In July I spent $500 fixing the damage caused by moisture rotting my floor, ALL OF WHICH EMANATED FROM THE TUB! If you have the misfortune, as I did, to have to remove the tub surround, you will see that the surround sits in front of to top lip of the tub. When my tub was installed at the factory it had a good sized hole in the corner which someone had the foresight to caulk before they installed the surround. Well, the caulk fell off. Every single time the tub was used water would spill onto he floor, in an area you can't see. Since we tend to all take baths and showers in the trailer, we have been marinating our floor in water for several years. Finally the floor just gave up and we discovered we had a "little" soft spot. When I investigated the problem I discovered an area approximately five by four feet destroyed with about the same amount of square footage damaged. It took two weeks and lots of sweat and money to fix this problem.
> 
> If you use a high quality caulk and clean the surfaces thoroughly before you apply it, you should have a watertight seal that doesn't break. What little moisture you might accummulate inside the wall would pale in comparison to what I witnessed. This problem also induced a problem into my electrical system, resulting in compromised wiring where the shore power is joined to the trailer wiring.
> 
> ...


I agree 10000%...

The manaul and the dealers are wrong...

caulk the bottom -- leave the top open for installation ....

don't caulk and water seeps through and ruins everything...


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## RizFam (Feb 25, 2006)

I agree as well. When my DH replaced our tub he caulked everything extremely well around the new tub.


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## BeachHut (Aug 1, 2007)

We have large gaps at the top of the tub surround and the wall all the way around. I think it would be too much to caulk. Its almost like the surround is way too big for the area. Is this normal? Seems like its just asking for a huge problem similar to reverie's.

Anyone else have large gaps?

Gwen


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## jaystermeister1 (Apr 18, 2007)

I just did the upgrade to my shower to the pleated curtains and had to re-caulk the whole shower area. I didn't know much about it so I asked the home depot guy expert "what kind of caulk should I get?" He kinda laughed when I said that but then reccommended a brand from the store that is mold resistent. I also bought a tool to spread the silicone so it was nice and neat. Still waiting for everything to dry so I can test it out.


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## RizFam (Feb 25, 2006)

When we re-did our tub, I bought Phenoseal Translucent Vinyl Adhesive Caulk, mildew resistant, fast drying, indoor/outdoor use. My DH caulked the entire tub surround top & bottom.


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## Paul and Amy (Jul 8, 2007)

Reverie said:


> Typically I defer to the experts but not on this one. I followed the advice and didn't caulk my tub surround. In July I spent $500 fixing the damage caused by moisture rotting my floor, ALL OF WHICH EMANATED FROM THE TUB! If you have the misfortune, as I did, to have to remove the tub surround, you will see that the surround sits in front of to top lip of the tub. When my tub was installed at the factory it had a good sized hole in the corner which someone had the foresight to caulk before they installed the surround. Well, the caulk fell off. Every single time the tub was used water would spill onto he floor, in an area you can't see. Since we tend to all take baths and showers in the trailer, we have been marinating our floor in water for several years. Finally the floor just gave up and we discovered we had a "little" soft spot. When I investigated the problem I discovered an area approximately five by four feet destroyed with about the same amount of square footage damaged. It took two weeks and lots of sweat and money to fix this problem.
> 
> If you use a high quality caulk and clean the surfaces thoroughly before you apply it, you should have a watertight seal that doesn't break. What little moisture you might accummulate inside the wall would pale in comparison to what I witnessed. This problem also induced a problem into my electrical system, resulting in compromised wiring where the shore power is joined to the trailer wiring.
> 
> ...


 Reverie, I was reading the previous posts, and hoping that you would answer to this. There is nothing like past experience when it comes to a specific problem.


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