# Need Some Help, Sway Ball On Hitch Is Bending



## monkeeman (Jun 27, 2008)

I have a husky hitch on my truck. I have two sway bars on both sides of it. I have no idea why, but the driver side one has cause my hich where the little ball is on it to bend up. I don't know if this has happened due to me haveing to swirve a couple of times to keep from running over someone, or what. I took a hammer and was able to beat it back down to level it out. If anyone has any ideas about this, or need more info, just let me know. Any help would be appriciated....


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

Did you try backing up with the friction sway arms attached? I've heard that this can happen.

Can you give us a little more information on what kind of vehicle (year, make, model, engine, transmission, rear axle ratio) and the make and model of your (I'm assuming) travel trailer? This would help us make a recommendation of how to proceed from here a lot better.

I've noticed this isn't your first post, but I just wanted to say "Welcome to Outbackers" anyway.


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## monkeeman (Jun 27, 2008)

Airboss said:


> Did you try backing up with the friction sway arms attached? I've heard that this can happen.
> 
> Can you give us a little more information on what kind of vehicle (year, make, model, engine, transmission, rear axle ratio) and the make and model of your (I'm assuming) travel trailer? This would help us make a recommendation of how to proceed from here a lot better.
> 
> I've noticed this isn't your first post, but I just wanted to say "Welcome to Outbackers" anyway.


No I didn't Back up with them on. I will give you all the info that I can. I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with a 6.0L diesal V8 Quad cab. That is really all I know about the truck (sorry), and I have an Outback 31RQS. Hope this helps a little. Thanks...

Oh, and thanks for the Welcome, I love this form....


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## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

You do not need to be going in reverse to bend that thing!
One







of the times I broke the sway ball off the mount was when I 
kinda got "pinned" in a gas station with a small parking lot!
I _had_ to turn _very_ tight to get out. Sheared that thing right off!
So it is very possible to bend it if you are turning too tight.

MaeJae


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

monkeeman said:


> I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with a 6.0L diesal V8 Quad cab. ... I have an Outback 31RQS.


I would think that a 31-foot trailer is way too much trailer for friction sway control. You may want to evaluate your setup and consider a dual-cam or other type of sway control.

Ed


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

I agree 100% that you need a new hitch system.

We use the Equal-i-zer Hitch and love it!


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## monkeeman (Jun 27, 2008)

LarryTheOutback said:


> I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with a 6.0L diesal V8 Quad cab. ... I have an Outback 31RQS.


I would think that a 31-foot trailer is way too much trailer for friction sway control. You may want to evaluate your setup and consider a dual-cam or other type of sway control.

Ed
[/quote]

I'm sorry, I'm kind of new at all this, what is a dual-cam. Thanks...


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

monkeeman said:


> I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with a 6.0L diesal V8 Quad cab. ... I have an Outback 31RQS.


I would think that a 31-foot trailer is way too much trailer for friction sway control. You may want to evaluate your setup and consider a dual-cam or other type of sway control.

Ed
[/quote]

I'm sorry, I'm kind of new at all this, what is a dual-cam. Thanks...
[/quote]

No need to be sorry. This is the reason I asked what you were towing. Your truck is more than capable, but your hitch setup is probably the weak link. There are two very popular WDH (weight distribution hitches) on the market that have built-in sway control. Once one of these WDH is set up properly on your rig you can forget about using those friction sway bars; which are really only good on trailers 24' and smaller. Those two popular WDHs are:

Equal-i-zer
Reese Strait Line (which includes the dual cam sway control)

Those are links to eTailers that offer the products. Manufacturer's information can easily be found through a Google search.

Hope this helps a little.


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## monkeeman (Jun 27, 2008)

Airboss said:


> I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with a 6.0L diesal V8 Quad cab. ... I have an Outback 31RQS.


I would think that a 31-foot trailer is way too much trailer for friction sway control. You may want to evaluate your setup and consider a dual-cam or other type of sway control.

Ed
[/quote]

I'm sorry, I'm kind of new at all this, what is a dual-cam. Thanks...
[/quote]

No need to be sorry. This is the reason I asked what you were towing. Your truck is more than capable, but your hitch setup is probably the weak link. There are two very popular WDH (weight distribution hitchs) on the market that have built-in sway control. Once one of these WDH is set up properly on your rig you can forget about using those friction sway bars; which are really only good on trailers 24' and smaller. Those two popular WDHs are:

Equal-i-zer
Reese Strait Line (which includes the dual cam sway control)

Those are links to eTailers that offer the products. Manufacturer's information can easily be found through a Google search.

Hope this helps a little.
[/quote]

Thanks this does help. I wish that they would have told me this when I got the camper. When I got it, it had only one sway bar on it, and then I added the other. It doesn't seem to sway much at all, but at times it does, and I don't want to keep bending it. Thanks everyone for all the info. I may try to sell the setup I have, and see if I can get something different. Thanks again...

Is one of these hitches hard to install, or should I get someone professional to do it? Also what size or pounds should I get? Sorry to ask so much...


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

Glad to help. One suggestion though...both the Equal-i-zer and Reese Strait Line offer different spring bars that support different tongue weights. Get one that is close to your actual tongue weight as (I'm told) it will improve your ride quality.

What I mean is, if your actual tongue weight (fully loaded, batteries, LP, 100% ready to camp) is 850# then your should get the 1000# bars instead of the 1200# bars. Now, I'm no expert and this is based on what others have told me. Somebody please correct me if I'm mistaken.


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

monkeeman said:


> Is one of these hitches hard to install, or should I get someone professional to do it? Also what size or pounds should I get? Sorry to ask so much...


My experience is only with the Equalizer. 
Looking at the tongue weight specs on the 31rqs, it ranges from an 2007 being 830lbs to a 2009 @ 765lbs
Does the 31rqs also carry the batteries and lp tanks up front? If so, then I would get the 1,200 lb bars.
RVwholesalers sells the Equalizer for $399.99 and free delivery to your door









It is not difficult to install. You just need to have the right tools and the patience to follow all instructions to the letter.
I installed our hitch myself with a little direction from Equalizer, PDX Doug and my husband


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## monkeeman (Jun 27, 2008)

skippershe said:


> Is one of these hitches hard to install, or should I get someone professional to do it? Also what size or pounds should I get? Sorry to ask so much...


My experience is only with the Equalizer. 
Looking at the tongue weight specs on the 31rqs, it ranges from an 2007 being 830lbs to a 2009 @ 765lbs
Does the 31rqs also carry the batteries and lp tanks up front? If so, then I would get the 1,200 lb bars.
RVwholesalers sells the Equalizer for $399.99 and free delivery to your door









It is not difficult to install. You just need to have the right tools and the patience to follow all instructions to the letter.
I installed our hitch myself with a little direction from Equalizer, PDX Doug and my husband








[/quote]

Thanks all for the info. I will see what I can do. Hate to speed all my money on the hitch, and Not be able to go camping







. Thanks again...


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

monkeeman said:


> I have a 2004 Ford F-250 with a 6.0L diesal V8 Quad cab. ... I have an Outback 31RQS.


I would think that a 31-foot trailer is way too much trailer for friction sway control. You may want to evaluate your setup and consider a dual-cam or other type of sway control.

Ed
[/quote]

I'm sorry, I'm kind of new at all this, what is a dual-cam. Thanks...
[/quote]

I would agree with all of the above and was thinking the same things. The Reese friction sway control says right on the box that it is not intended for use on trailers over 25-26' in length. With all that length to catch cross-winds and buffets by semis, if that tail starts wagging, the dog will be in trouble. The momentum from the sway in a trailer that long will be a HUGE detriment to the driver of the TV. I don't think two will make much difference. (My un-scientific, personal opinion.)

I'm not trying to scare you or chastise you, just hoping I can get you to think about making things safer for you and your loved ones. (Read the two other threads about a tragic accident and safe towing that popped up in the last 24 hours! There's a lot of good stuff there.) Your F-250 will do a great job of towing and controlling that trailer, if the connection between the two is sufficient.

I have an Equal-i-zer hitch and couldn't be more pleased with the performance of my trailer, hitch, and TV combination. (I got rid of the chain-type WD hitch and the friction sway control that the dealer set up and sold me.) I use the 1200# bars and I'd guess that the same setup would work fine for you. Got mine at RV Wholesalers for $400 - delivered to my door. They are now $450, but worth every penny: Equal-i-zer at RV Wholesalers I set mine up on the level street, in front of my house (the exact spot in my signature photo). It took me about 4 hours - tops - including a couple short test drives to evaluate and tweak.

*EDIT:* This place has the hitch for $370! Equal-i-zer at AdventureRV.net

Your F-250 sits a bit higher than my Chevy 2500, so you might need a different shank. Go here - Equal-i-zer Website and download the installation instructions. The instructions will direct you to take some measurements on tongue height and reciever height, which will tell you whether you need a shank other than the standard one. (More $$$ !)

Feel free to ask all the questions you want. That's what Outbackers is all about - a friendly community of folks sharing their experience and advice. (And remember, the only stilly question is the one you don't ask!)

Good luck,

Mike


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