# 12v. Converter Upgrade - Progressive Dynamics 9260v



## California Jim

After my lousy Parallax 7355 single stage coverter cooked my batteries down to the plates for a second time, I finally got motivated to buy a replacement converter. Many may not know that Outbacks prior to mid-2005 came stock with this lousy single stage converter, then finally changed them to the WFCO 3 stage chargers they use today.

Anyway, I got a sweeeeet deal on a brand new Progressive Dynamics 9260C with the remote pendant included for $128 delivered from Ebay. A savings of about $100 better than I found at the popular Best Converter.com. I'll post some pics after it's delivered / installed.

Thankfully after cooking my Trojan T-105's for the second time they show no sign of damage or trouble. The specific gravity of the acid is all the way in the green "good" section of my tester, and last weekend's dry camping trip with heavy furnace usage for two nights was no trouble at all with power to spare.

I would and will buy Trojan batteries again even if they cost more. They are obviously built to last.


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## BoaterDan

When you say "cooked down to the plates", do you mean it boiled all the water out?

My understanding is the more truly deep-cycle a battery is, the more substantial the plates are, and all else being equal the heavy duty 6v are better than the 12v in that regard. I would imagine that's what makes them more tolerant of extreme abuse.

By the way, even Trojan clearly takes the position that such treatment will harm the longevity and performance of any battery. Of course, they all have to say that for liability/warranty reasons, and some batteries are still going to be tougher than others.


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## California Jim

Hi Dan:

The acid was evaporated off to a point about 1" below the top of the lead plates, thus exposing them. Very naughty on my part for not watching them closer







They are very substantial plates though and for the moment seem to be fine. This will be the LAST time I do this! One Trojan T-105 now costs more than the converter upgrade.


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## H2oSprayer

I'll be awaiting a full write up with photos on the conversion. I was also considering the same converter upgrade.


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## California Jim

H2oSprayer said:


> I'll be awaiting a full write up with photos on the conversion. I was also considering the same converter upgrade.


Us old timers gotta keep the 04's happy







Details to follow in this thread when done.

Just noticed that our kiddies are about the same age too. Mine are 99 and 02 model years









Jim


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## Ridgway-Rangers

I put the same converter in my 27rsds and love it. Whiole dry camping, you will notice the firts phase of charging will boost you batteries very quickly. I leave mine plugged in all the time and the batteries have never given me a problem.

Enjoy,
Brian


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## MJRey

I have an 05 trailer. Is there a way to tell what type of charger I have? I don't know where the instruction book is for the power panel. I rarely use the built in charger but it would be nice to know what I've got.


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## Nathan

Definetly need pictures. That's on the to do list for the SOB this year.


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## CamperAndy

MJRey said:


> I have an 05 trailer. Is there a way to tell what type of charger I have? I don't know where the instruction book is for the power panel. I rarely use the built in charger but it would be nice to know what I've got.


Open the cover, there should be a sticker that says WFCO on it. That would indicate you have the 3 stage converter, you would have to take the cover all the way off to see what the exact model/size you have.


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## jzero

I have a question and I hope its not too off topic, but on my '05 21rs, when I plug in to the generator to run the microwave, the converter wants to draw 5-7 amps or so to top off the batteries. this is a real problem for me as it's only a Honda 2000iu. is there a way to bypass the converter OR does the one you installed have a "bypass" function? anyone know what I'm saying?


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## Nathan

jzero said:


> I have a question and I hope its not too off topic, but on my '05 21rs, when I plug in to the generator to run the microwave, the converter wants to draw 5-7 amps or so to top off the batteries. this is a real problem for me as it's only a Honda 2000iu. is there a way to bypass the converter OR does the one you installed have a "bypass" function? anyone know what I'm saying?


I beleive one of the breakers powers the converter. Turn that one off and you should be set.


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## CamperAndy

Nathan said:


> I have a question and I hope its not too off topic, but on my '05 21rs, when I plug in to the generator to run the microwave, the converter wants to draw 5-7 amps or so to top off the batteries. this is a real problem for me as it's only a Honda 2000iu. is there a way to bypass the converter OR does the one you installed have a "bypass" function? anyone know what I'm saying?


I beleive one of the breakers powers the converter. Turn that one off and you should be set.
[/quote]

Or pull the 40 amp fuses.


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## California Jim

Ridgway-Rangers said:


> Definetly need pictures. That's on the to do list for the SOB this year.


Gotcha covered. I'll be snappin' like crazy as I do it


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## BoaterDan

California Jim said:


> Music to my ears Brian


The new stock ones even have a fan on them they're pumping so much amperage. I imagine that one does too?? You can hear the fan rather clearly, and it is comforting to literally _hear_ it pumping the juice and then notice the fan has shut off.


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## California Jim

Yeah, I believe most if not all have fans and this is usually an item of contempt or concern. The fan is often too loud and folks don't like hearing it, or hear it and think something may be wrong. I have heard that the fans in the WFCO's are on the loud side.

I believe the fan in the Progressive Dynamics unit has a variable speed and will spin according to the load or temperature detected. Either way is fine with me. I don't mind the fan sound in my current model. Just want to stop torturing my batteries


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## MJRey

jzero said:


> I have a question and I hope its not too off topic, but on my '05 21rs, when I plug in to the generator to run the microwave, the converter wants to draw 5-7 amps or so to top off the batteries. this is a real problem for me as it's only a Honda 2000iu. is there a way to bypass the converter OR does the one you installed have a "bypass" function? anyone know what I'm saying?


On my trailer the bottom circuit breaker in the panel controls the 12V charger. When I want to turn off the charger I just open the cover and turn off the breaker. It's very easy to do and reduces the load when I'm only using one generator.


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## California Jim

Well if a picture is worth 1000 words then I have 35,000 before even adding descriptions







Here is a step by step of the install for anyone interested.

2004 model year Parallax 7355 converter / charger









Parallax !

















Old unit info









Inside of old unit. Time to get started.









remove 4 #T10 Torx screws to get the panel cover off. Sheesh, I gotta clean that thing when I'm finished.









Here is what you have inside after the panel is removed.









Remove two sheet metal screws to remove 120 volt power center cover









All the guts now exposed. Time for surgery!









Remove the two hex head screws on each side of the green 30 amp fuses to access the 12v power panel. Also unscrew the nut holding the blue + power wire from the old converter.









Tilt the panel forward and you can release the negative white converter cable from the rear lug.


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## California Jim

With the two 12 volt wires disconnected you can now unplug the black and white 120 volt wires from the front of the converter, unscrew the 4 sheet metal screws, and pull out the old converter.









Ever wonder what's behind/under that old thing? Now you know. The whole trailer both 12 volt and 120 volt is tied into the singular ground bus that you can see there. The ground comes from the trailer frame to here and then on to the 120 volt section of the power center. All the white wires you see are the ground side of the 12 volt circuits. The positives run to the individual fuses.









There's a new sheriff in town !









Don't know why, but for some reason the converter breaker is shared between two circuits. They wired them together with a wire nut.







I chose to leave it alone.









To get the old converter housing open you will need to drill out the 5 rivets around the perimeter.









Top removed after drilling rivets.









The old unit is simply unscrewed from the bottom and lifted out. You will also need to drill out the spot welds holding that little internal wall so you can remove it too.









Insert the new unit where you want it to go. I chose to place it slightly off center to the left so that the 25 amp fuses on the right of new unit are more easily accessible. Mark the top right corner of the unit on the back of the box to measure on the next step.









Use the lines you made on the box to measure the dead center of where the charge wizard pendant plugs in the back of the unit. Measure twice and drill once! A 1/2" hole was perfect.


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## California Jim

If you drilled carefully....









Bullseye !

















With the rear hole lined up to the charge wizard port, mark, center punch and drill the three holes provided for mounting the new unit. I chose to use self drilling tek screws to secure the unit, and will install them later.









This gets into a gray area. You can reattach the entire top panel if you want. At the very least you need to attach the front of it because it contains the top screws to hold the cover in place. I decided that since the new unit is already self contained and covered, it would be better ventilated if I left it open. So I cut the front section off just behind the forward rivet holes that can be used to screw it back onto the box.









My sawzall with a fresh blade made quick work of the panel.









You will also need to cut a slot out as shown so that it doesn't hit the 120 volt cord from the converter when you slide it back in. Take the trimmed piece back to the power center and slide it in place to make a mark on each side of the 120v power cord opening. Cut the lines, bend metal tab 90 degrees, and then cut it off. I carefully filed all the edges smooth after cutting.









Back to our job site. The new converter has a ground wire hookup on the left side. To accommodate this, install a new ground wire from the ground block and pull it out to get it ready.









At this point I have installed two new 8 GA 12 volt wires, crimped on a circle terminal connector on the black 12 volt hot wire, cut the 120 volt plug off and stripped the jacket to expose the wires, connected the ground wire from the ground block, and plugged in the charge wizard pendant.









Pull the 120 volt wires from the converter through the hole under that section of the power center. Connecting them is easy enough: white to the neutral bus bar, green to the ground bus bar, black hot to the breaker.









Because I used tek screws to fasten the unit to the box, I soon discovered that the box wouldn't slide back in because they were hitting. You may want to use bolts and nuts instead. But...


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## California Jim

The antidote was my Dremmel tool loaded with a cut-off wheel. My 9 YO daughter really enjoyed the "pretty sparks!" Problem solved and the unit slides in freely.









At this point I will re-attach my trimmed down lid with two tek screws. Now you can see why the big slot was cut out to go around the 120 volt power cord. Carefully slide the new unit into place. Once in, the holes on the right hand side will line up and you can pull the 12 volt wires through to the 12v panel. Again, the original 10 guage wires were replaced with 8 guage. They just seemed too thin for the new 60 amp converter. My camper has 6 guage wires running from the panel to the batteries so 10 seemed ridiculous to feed them. Connect the white wire back to the rear of the panel, and the new ring terminal I crimped on the hot wire allows it to go back under the nut on the top of the panel.









All back together. Oh yeah, the charge wizard pendant! I almost forgot to mention it. As you can see I drilled a hole in the adjacent panel and mounted it there. It comes with a nice long cord and was easy to plug in the back before sliding the unit into place. Notice that there is plenty of room around the unit for air circulation, and with the top cut off the old box it's wide open to allow the heat to rise out and away. Also with the heat sink and fan of the new unit mounted forward, it lines up perfectly with the vented louvers in the cover for good breathability.









Plenty of room to see and access the three 25 amp fuses on the right side.









Powered up and in boost mode. All checked out well. I manually put the unit in regular mode and measured 13.7 volts too. All is well.









TA DA!


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## Scottyfish

Thanks for the pics Jim! The visuals certainly help tie the whole story/procedure together.


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## Calvin&Hobbes

NICELY done, sir! The peace of mind that should bring is imeasurable. Make a note to update us on it's performance this season...(also, if you dont mind me asking, what was the cost for the unit?...)


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## GarethsDad

Calvin&Hobbes said:


> NICELY done, sir! The peace of mind that should bring is imeasurable. Make a note to update us on it's performance this season...(also, if you dont mind me asking, what was the cost for the unit?...)


(Anyway, I got a sweeeeet deal on a brand new Progressive Dynamics 9260C with the remote pendant included for $128 delivered from Ebay.) James


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## CamperAndy

Nice write up but got to make a label to cover the old PPC tag.


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## Nathan

Great Details!!!









My cover is brown, so perhaps you ccould make a trip to Michigan and repeat the procedure?








I mean just in case the color of the door changes something....


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## H2oSprayer

Thanks for the write-up Jim. I have added this to my "Hope to do" list for this year.


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## battalionchief3

Glad I got a 3 stage converter, that was a lot of work. Im no electrician either and I would probally need some help with that job. Good job!!!


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## Nathan

Ok, I just ordered one off E-bay. I think I have a different Parallax model, but it looks like with enough tools you can make it work!









Thanks again for the detailed writeup!


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## California Jim

Good luck Nathan









It really was not hard at all, and is more of a fabrication project than an electrical one. I'm sure you'll be fine.


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## GarethsDad

I'd like to say thanks to California Jim. I followed his lead and replaced the single stage converter with a PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS INTELI POWER converter with pendant. James


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## California Jim

Cool deal James. I hope your install went well


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## GarethsDad

I moved the panel meters that I installed by the lower front bunk to where they should have been all along. Now I don't have to drop the bunk to see the voltage. James


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## California Jim

Looks great James, Nice Work!

Jim


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## Nathan

I just completed this mod. It was every bit as easy as jim described, and his comments made the install seamless. THANKS JIM!!!


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## California Jim

Way to go Nathan! Glad it all went well.

I'm looking forward to charging the batteries faster this summer when we dry camp and run the generator for a re-charge. Also, that PDI is quiet as a mouse.

Enjoy


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## Steelhead

I also did this conversion some time back. As California Jim mentioned, I too was surprised that there were two wires sharing the breaker for the converter.
The breaker is labeled REC/CON. I'm sure the CON is the converter, but what does the REC stand for? Anyone? Anyway, I really like the Progressive Dynamics converter. yes it is quiet.

Thanks,

Dallas


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## GarethsDad

Steelhead said:


> I also did this conversion some time back. As California Jim mentioned, I too was surprised that there were two wires sharing the breaker for the converter.
> The breaker is labeled REC/CON. I'm sure the CON is the converter, but what does the REC stand for? Anyone? Anyway, I really like the Progressive Dynamics converter. yes it is quiet.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dallas


When I changed mine I traced that second wire back to two RECeptacles. These were not GFI protected. I used a plug in transmitter and a battery receiver. James


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## Steelhead

Thanks for the reply. That makes sense now, Rec would stand for receptacles I reckon. Still seems a little strange that they would double up on a breaker that way. I guess there was just no more room in the panel for an additional separate breaker.
Thanks for the info.

Dallas


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## Bob2ride

California Jim said:


> After my lousy Parallax 7355 single stage coverter cooked my batteries down to the plates for a second time, I finally got motivated to buy a replacement converter. Many may not know that Outbacks prior to mid-2005 came stock with this lousy single stage converter, then finally changed them to the WFCO 3 stage chargers they use today.


Jim;
Do you have any pics of the installation? I have to replace my converter on my 2005 21RS this weekend. I have the progressive converter you mentioned but it sure looks different from the one in there. Are you in Southern CA ny any chance?

Bob


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## Bob2ride

converter, then finally changed them to the WFCO 3 stage chargers they use today.

[/quote]
Jim;
Do you have any pics of the installation? ...
Bob
[/quote]
Holly cow, I'm a little slow. Jim has pictures and then some. Looks like it's more than I need on a 21RS but I'm gonna have a look anyway.

Bob


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## Insomniak

Bob2ride said:


> converter, then finally changed them to the WFCO 3 stage chargers they use today.


Jim;
Do you have any pics of the installation?  ...
Bob
[/quote]
Holly cow, I'm a little slow. Jim has pictures and then some. Looks like it's more than I need on a 21RS but I'm gonna have a look anyway.

Bob
[/quote]
You may not need to remove the guts of the old converter if you have enough room behind the AC\DC panel. For my latest replacement, I just disconnected the WFCO converter wires and mounted the PD9260 to the floor behind the panel. I cut off the plug end of the power wire to the converter, ran it to the breaker panel, then ran new white and black DC wires from the panel back to the converter. Only about a 30 minute project and the PD9260 is virtually silent even when the fan is running. The remote pendant is great also when you want to bump up the voltage to charge your batteries faster, or just have brighter interior lights for a while.


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## fuji

GarethsDad said:


> I'd like to say thanks to California Jim. I followed his lead and replaced the single stage converter with a PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS INTELI POWER converter with pendant. James


Saw this forum and thaought what a great article. Just go simular converter for fathers day gift and cant't wait to get this installed. Will use this forum as my guide line.
Thanks for the forum and details.


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## fuji

Thank-you Jim! Just finished installing my Progressive Dynamics 9270. Your detailed instructions made the install fun and no problems. The photos and tips were the best. Thanks again!

Kyle
Fuji Base Camp


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## California Jim

Wow. I'm so pleased to see that this old thread is still valuable and being used. Nice to hear of your successful installations!

Still lurking........Jim


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## California Jim

Bob2ride said:


> After my lousy Parallax 7355 single stage coverter cooked my batteries down to the plates for a second time, I finally got motivated to buy a replacement converter. Many may not know that Outbacks prior to mid-2005 came stock with this lousy single stage converter, then finally changed them to the WFCO 3 stage chargers they use today.


Jim;
Do you have any pics of the installation? I have to replace my converter on my 2005 21RS this weekend. I have the progressive converter you mentioned but it sure looks different from the one in there. Are you in Southern CA ny any chance?

Bob
[/quote]

Hi Bob,

Sorry I missed your post. Hopefully your install is finished and working well for you now. I am indeed in SoCal and very close to Long Beach. If you ever need some help just send me a message here.

Jim


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