# 28bhs Underside Photos



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)




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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

It sure is a nest under there isn't it. Are you going to be looming all those wires?

Tim


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## Parker Outbacker (Dec 17, 2004)

On picture #5 (I thiink) what is the wire or tube that is going between the vertical support and the top of the frame maybe?!?! Doesn't look so good. My trailer was the same way. Found lots of trash with wire connectors, splitters, etc. What happened to neat and tidey?!?


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Verrrrrrry Interesting! Thanks!


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Parker Outbacker said:


> On picture #5 (I thiink) what is the wire or tube that is going between the vertical support and the top of the frame maybe?!?!Â Doesn't look so good. [snapback]37635[/snapback]​


PO,

That is the main water feed from the pump discharge heading back towards the kitchen sink and the rest of the appliances. I get a good amount of pump vibration when running. Ideally I would love to re-route the plumbing and do it the correct way, will see how much time I have to clean it all up.

Kevin


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

hatcityhosehauler said:


> It sure is a nest under there isn't it. Are you going to be looming all those wires?
> 
> Tim
> [snapback]37615[/snapback]​


Tim,

I am thinking I will wire loom the main set of wires from the front back as far as possible. The rest, probably just a few roles of electrical tape to bundle them together and at all rub points.

There are more plumbing fittings under here than I ever thought there was, so I will be checking all of those also.

Going to be a busy weekend. (no basketball, no softball, yiippeee, I can get something done for a change)

Kevin


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

No basketball, no softball, just a relaxing weekend.









Have fun on the project,

John


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## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

Wow. Maybe out of site - out of mind is a good thing (until you have problem).


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Do you have any idea how much time is saved during the building process if you do not have to 'tie' up all the wires and hoses. The underbelly was a great idea from that stand point and aero dynamic for us.

John


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

A nice big C. World box showed up lastnight.

Lined up for this weekend, besides cleaning up the underside wires and piping..

quickie-flush install
shower door install
roof vent cover for bathroom
battery switch-finally
and fix the speaker wires.
oh and de-winterize-also finally.

Gonna be fun this weekend.

Kevin


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## camptails (Jan 18, 2005)

Hmmm......are all trailers made this way?







Why should the buyer have to remodel a new house right after moving in? This seems like verrrry sloppy manufacturing to me......It would be interesting to see what a keystone rep would say to customers at an RV show if one had those available don't you think.







How hard could it be to loom wireing and such on the line. But then back to my first statement maybe all trailers are made this way.....


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

We can't demand low prices and high quality.

If we were willing to pay more, maybe they would be able to spend more time and do a higher quality job, but I don't think we can have both.

Mike


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

camptails said:


> Hmmm......are all trailers made this way?Â
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Out of sight out of mind.









I have seen the underside of trailers that are not enclosed and the wires are a little neater but not to the standard of automotive wiring. House wiring can look just as bad when the electrician knows the area will be covered but your house does not need to roll down the road that much







.

As for price verse quality. It is quicker to just spool off an extra few feet of wire and let go at that but it is cheaper to route the wire precisely. The cost differently is the extra material verse the time to do it right. For the cost of the employees at Keystone vs the wire it may be a wash.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

I have tried to trace wires and water lines that are tucked inside the frame rails, not fun. As long as the bellypan is intact I do not see any problems with everything loose. There really isn t any way they will rub wrong that I see and if you need to trace a wire or look for a leak, its in front of you. As I said before, ease of building and aerodynamic. Just my thinking.

John


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

I don't see any problems with having the wires the way they are, there is not much tension on them, they won't move much for abrasion either.

Now the water piping, it does rub on the rails, it transmitts vibration throughout, etc. PEX piping is very durable but over many years and miles I can see a slight possiblilty for abrasion pin leak, maybe.

I am more upset over the lack of tightening the 30 amp main wire at the neutral buss bar, causing it to short and melt/burn. This is shoddy workmanship and totally unacceptable no matter how much cost you are trying to save.

I am only cleaning my underside up because I have it apart already and this way I get to know what goes where and how. I am the type that tears a new radio apart to see how it works, just to do it.

Kevin


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

I have to agree with John. If you have a electrical problem it is a lot easier to trace wires that are loose then the ones that are rapped up and you have to pull apart. If we didn't have a belly pan then I would be worried. Face it...it is the bottom of the camper...as long as it is easy to work on when and if there is a problem...who cares.

That is my thoughts,
Gary


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## JOELs28BHS (Apr 25, 2005)

I have a 2004 28 BHS, has any one else had a hard time dumping the black water tank but me? I have fought this since it was new, had it looked at by the dealer and they can't find any thing wrong. I have to have alot of water in the tank before it will get any flow, usually takes about 3 time of flushing







before it comes clean. I've tried all types of chem. add. for the tank but is still hard to dump good. I think it's because the Outback is so low to the ground (one of the reasons I like the Outbacks) it doesn't have a chance for much down hill head pressure. I am open to all suggestions, my next add on is a tank flusher of some kind. I still love my Outback!!!!


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Look at picture 6, that shows the slope of my drain pipe. If the trailer is level, when you open the black valve, you should get a huge rush of water out the pipe, after a few seconds of this is slows down more to a trickle. The characteristics of the tank being long and shallow can make it drain rather slow. To speed it up, you can lower the tongue jack.

I don't notice any draining problems.

Installing the quickie flush tomorrow, that will help "clean" the tank better. The tank will not be clean just by dumping it once, it needs to be flushed out for a good clean.

Has anyone looked for blockages at the gate valve?

Kevin


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## Jacko (Feb 14, 2005)

Great photos,
I also have a 28bhs, and I plan to do the same thing in order to install a quickie flush. Hey Kevin, was the underbelly covering difficult to remove? Is that a sealant of some kind? I want to look at the pipes, due to when I make turns I hear some serious vibration. I think it might be the pipes--not sure. Thanks for sharing your photos--I will do the same when I get mine off--the underbelly covering that is!!! Good Luck.

Jack


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## Jacko (Feb 14, 2005)

JOELs28BHS said:


> I have a 2004 28 BHS, has any one else had a hard time dumping the black water tank but me? I have fought this since it was new, had it looked at by the dealer and they can't find any thing wrong. I have to have alot of water in the tank before it will get any flow, usually takes about 3 time of flushing
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I suggest you try Calgon water softner. I tried it with the advise taken from this web-site, and it works outstanding. I will find out who posted the info and get back with you.

Jack


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Jack,

The cover is held on by lots of screw bolts, 10mm socket is needed. The left-port-LHS is the easiest die to take down. The right side has the gas line in the way.

There is a spray foam type sealant that goes around the perimeter, a simple pull and it pops free. I only dropped the cover, didn't remove it. Be careful at the brake wires at the wheels, the wire goes through the cover, I cut a slot to remove the wire.

It really is very easy taking down, putting it up is the hard part. I am going to make a 2x4 brace to push up in the middle while I put the screws back in. Multiple hands will really help. Since my camper is at my dad's house, I will bribe him to crawl underneath and help out, gonna cost me some of the fine Old Milwaukee Lights, well worth it I guess.

good luck

Kevin


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Putting up I was on a creeper with my legs underneath. I used my knees to pick up cover and put in one bolt at a time. Did it alone, was not that bad.

John


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## Jacko (Feb 14, 2005)

hurricaneplumber said:


> Jack,
> 
> The cover is held on by lots of screw bolts, 10mm socket is needed. The left-port-LHS is the easiest die to take down. The right side has the gas line in the way.
> 
> ...


thanks
Working with Dad and having a beer--it doesn't get any better--I wish I could do the same--thanks again

Jack


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## jallen58 (Oct 27, 2003)

I did mine last year and the wires were all loomed pretty well maybe mine was done by someone that really cared about their job and the customer









Jim


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## Chips (Aug 15, 2004)

When I had my Outbacks underbelly off, what I didn't like was how the wires were loose over the fresh water tank. If you feel the top of the braces on either side of the fresh water tank, you will notice that it is just the 1/8 inch metal edge. There isn't even a short 90 degree strength break at the top. I was concerned that the loose wires could possibly fray from potental movement along the metal while driving. I covered the wires with a 1/2 inch water pipe foam insulation tube (49 cents for 3 foot section ) across the top of the fresh water tank. The wires are now neater and also protected from the metal edge.


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Update....

All wires made a little neater.
Insulated pipes from rattles.
Installed quickie flush on opposite side of sensors.
Cover back up.

Built sewer hose storage tube for rear bumper.

Getting there.

Kevin


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Another mod complete, toilet riser....



















Easy and very comfortable


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Rise up too much, and I'll start hitting my head. One question, does the riser fasten to the closet flange, and then have another flange on it to mount the toilet? or does the riser just cover the hole in the floor, and you move the flange to the riser?

Tim


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Too Tall Tim,

It only raises 2.5". The existing closet flange remains, they provide a new gasket to put on the existing flange then you place the riser on top of that then another gasket and finally set the toilet and tighten bolts. Very Simple. Raises it up to about ADA toilet height.

I had a free Camping World membership and this was $25 with the dollar shipping so I thought I would try it out.

Moving the camper down to my house tomorrow night, will see how well my backing ability is going down my alleyway.

Kevin


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## Dreamtimers (Mar 7, 2005)

hurricaneplumber said:


> Update....
> 
> Built sewer hose storage tube for rear bumper.
> 
> ...


Do you have any photos of what the rear bumper looked like before/after you built the sewer tube storage? I've not seen one without this tube from the factory.

Currently I use mine to store a 7' step ladder, (that C.W. sells), inside. It makes cleaning leaves, etc. off the slide roof loads easier.

Dreamtimers


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

It looks very similar to what Mikes picture shows, except I only bungee corded mine on in case it needs to come off to get the hose out.

I can take photo tomorrow for you.

Mikes bumper MOD

Kevin


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

How much of a pain was the plumbing extension for the water to the toilet??


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Andy,

It was one of the toughest mods to date.

To connect the water line, I had to pull it up out of the floor farther and screw it to the toilet







There was about 12" spare piping below the floor. so simple.

Total installation time 15 minutes.


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