# Equalizer Hitch Washers



## skippershe

We need to add extra washers to our Equalizer hitch. I know they have instructions on their website, but I am unable to open PDF files









Can anyone please tell me what the max number of washers it will allow??

We have 5 on there now, but the "L" bracket is maxed out with no room for adjustment, so I'd like to add 2 or 3 more if possible.

Thanks!!


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## johnp

I don't think the pin will hold anymore than six but don't hold me to that. Thats a lot to transfer if your L brackets are maxed and you want to add up to 8 washers.

John


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## skippershe

Thanks John,

I seem to remember that it could take up to 7 washers. I also remember asking Josh at Equalizer this question...he said that they don't sell spare washers, but if I needed more of them, to get hardened (steel if I remember correctly) washers at the hardware store.

Is anyone able to go to equalizerhitch.com for me and click on Support for the installation instructions to confirm how many washers can be added?

I would really appreciate it









DH is going to attempt to loosen the bolts in just a little while...


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## Katrina

skippershe said:


> Thanks John,
> 
> I seem to remember that it could take up to 7 washers. I also remember asking Josh at Equalizer this question...he said that they don't sell spare washers, but if I needed more of them, to get hardened (steel if I remember correctly) washers at the hardware store.
> 
> Is anyone able to go to equalizerhitch.com for me and click on Support for the installation instructions to confirm how many washers can be added?
> 
> I would really appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DH is going to attempt to loosen the bolts in just a little while...


I clicked and read the instruction.
It does not say what the maximum number of washers is.


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## emsley3

Dawn,

I checked the PDF and could not find any mention of a maximum number of spacer washers. Below where the key areas in regards to the washers:

a) Place spacer rivet with five (5) spacer washers (item #3) into the 1/2" hole located at the inside top
of the hitch head channel. (figure III)

NOTE: The spacer washers are used to angle the hitch head approximately 4 to 6 degrees downward. If
the tow vehicleâ€™s receiver is not level, more or less washers may be needed to compensate for the uneven
receiver.

I too seem to remember 7 being the magic number.

Paul


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## skippershe

Hi Jim, Thanks for trying...it was so hot here today that we waited until things cooled off to attempt this...figures equalizer is closed for the evening











emsley3 said:


> Dawn,
> 
> I checked the PDF and could not find any mention of a maximum number of spacer washers. Below where the key areas in regards to the washers:
> 
> a) Place spacer rivet with five (5) spacer washers (item #3) into the 1/2" hole located at the inside top
> of the hitch head channel. (figure III)
> 
> NOTE: The spacer washers are used to angle the hitch head approximately 4 to 6 degrees downward. If
> the tow vehicleâ€™s receiver is not level, more or less washers may be needed to compensate for the uneven
> receiver.
> 
> I too seem to remember 7 being the magic number.
> 
> Paul


Thanks Paul!









Cover me! I'm going in


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## Humpty

I used 7 with my Burb, but have 6 now. I think Beachbum has 8 in his right now.

The length of post that holds the washers is the only limiting factor that I know of.


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## Scoutr2

I started out with five washers, but went to six when I tweaked the hitch. The more washers you add (or the higher you raise the L-brackets), the higher you have to lift TV and trailer tongue to get the bars on and off. If you have your L-brackets maxed out (all the way up) and are thinking of adding more washers, I'd suggest that you might want to look into the 1400# bars. They would apply more leveling torque to your hitch receiver and do a better job of leveling the TV.

I imagine that you probably have a lot of weight up front in your 'Roo, which is causing the WD problems. Adding more washers will angle the bars down more, but I'd be afraid that you will be lifting the rear wheels of your TV off the ground to get your bars on and off. A dicey situation, from a safety standpoint.

But that's just my $.02 - for what it's worth (and I'm no expert - just practical thinking, here).

Mike


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## GoVols

Unless of course, you have the factory GM hitch whereby it is virtually impossible to transfer any weight to the front.


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## skippershe

Sorry, maybe I didn't make my issue clear. The weight distribution is fine, everything is level...The problem is that it took maxing out the L bracket to get it level, so we just want to be able to have extra spaces to raise the L bracket if we need to in the future.

I am going to call equalizer right now and find out once again how many L bracket holes you gain with each washer added.

Thanks everyone for your input


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## biga

skippershe said:


> Sorry, maybe I didn't make my issue clear. The weight distribution is fine, everything is level...The problem is that it took maxing out the L bracket to get it level, so we just want to be able to have extra spaces to raise the L bracket if we need to in the future.
> 
> I am going to call equalizer right now and find out once again how many L bracket holes you gain with each washer added.
> 
> Thanks everyone for your input


I feel your pain. I am still trying to find a combination of settings to allow me to easily set up the Roo for towing with or without the bikes in the garage.

I found some washers in my stash that are about 1.5 times the thickness of the Equil-I-zer washers. Right now, I have added one, and I am about to add another (giving me the equivilent of 8 washers). It should work without a problem.

Also, if your dealer installed the hitch originally, make sure the brackets mounted to the frame are not upside down. The "loop" with the square head bolt should be towards the top of the trailer frame, not the bottom. That will give you 1"-2" of adjustment if it is incorrect. (Ask me how I know.)


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## skippershe

LOL! biga









I know all about the upside down thing








A friend of ours installed our hitch and we couldn't get the TT level for anything. After some time on the phone with Equalizer (Josh) he helped me figure out that the brackets were upside down. I now know this hitch inside and out, because I re-installed it myself (dh had just had back surgery and couldn't help me).

I just spoke with Dave Hansen at Equalizer, and he told me that one washer does equal one L bracket adjustment. He said he has seen up to 9 on a hitch before. He told me to go with 7 for now and we should be pretty good. He also thought that upgrading to the 14,000 lb set up would be overkill. We use the garage area for camping stuff like the bbq, table and chairs, generator, cooler, things like that...have never even loaded the quad or Harley.

Has anyone here actually weighed their 28krs's for the tongue weight when empty?? Keystone's website says it's 635 lbs. for the 2006. Even if we loaded the garage to it's 1,000 lb capacity, we would still be way under weight wise for the 12,000 lb Equalizer hitch setup...right??


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## kbrazielTx

Be carefull not to put so much upward pressure. I have found when I do that it rides terrible. If you want to raise the tongue then raise the head up. That way the WD is the same but the trailer is more level. Actually I find a little down in the front helps towing.

Another thing I found out is no matter what receiver you have you will never get enough weight transfered to the from tires. I guess the front suspension on the Burbs does not allow this. After tweaking the setup for months I found less is better when it comes to towing.

Hope this helps out some.

KB


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## skippershe

kbrazielTx said:


> Be carefull not to put so much upward pressure. I have found when I do that it rides terrible. If you want to raise the tongue then raise the head up. That way the WD is the same but the trailer is more level. Actually I find a little down in the front helps towing.
> 
> Another thing I found out is no matter what receiver you have you will never get enough weight transfered to the from tires. I guess the front suspension on the Burbs does not allow this. After tweaking the setup for months I found less is better when it comes to towing.
> 
> Hope this helps out some.
> 
> KB


Hi KB,

I don't want to raise the nose up, we want it just the way it is, but with some additional adjustment possibilities just in case we need it.

You're right about the Burb. The front end without being hitched to the TT is almost 2" higher than the rear, that's why it appears to be lower in the rear when hitched, cause that's just the way it is. The measurements from front to back on the burb are identical when hitched, meaning that the compression of 2" overall front to back, hitched or unhitched is the same (does that make sense?). The ride while towing is great...very level and stable.

Our first time loaded up on a trip with the new hitch, we got on the freeway and dh said that the burb felt light in the front end, so we pulled over and only having one more hole left on the L bracket, that's where it has stayed. He was and is happy with the way it's set up now...I just want more holes just in case!


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## beachbum

skippershe said:


> Be carefull not to put so much upward pressure. I have found when I do that it rides terrible. If you want to raise the tongue then raise the head up. That way the WD is the same but the trailer is more level. Actually I find a little down in the front helps towing.
> 
> Another thing I found out is no matter what receiver you have you will never get enough weight transfered to the from tires. I guess the front suspension on the Burbs does not allow this. After tweaking the setup for months I found less is better when it comes to towing.
> 
> Hope this helps out some.
> 
> KB


Hi KB,

I don't want to raise the nose up, we want it just the way it is, but with some additional adjustment possibilities just in case we need it.

You're right about the Burb. The front end without being hitched to the TT is almost 2" higher than the rear, that's why it appears to be lower in the rear when hitched, cause that's just the way it is. The measurements from front to back on the burb are identical when hitched, meaning that the compression of 2" overall front to back, hitched or unhitched is the same (does that make sense?). The ride while towing is great...very level and stable.

Our first time loaded up on a trip with the new hitch, we got on the freeway and dh said that the burb felt light in the front end, so we pulled over and only having one more hole left on the L bracket, that's where it has stayed. He was and is happy with the way it's set up now...I just want more holes just in case!
[/quote]

Here's my last post after I had switched out the factory hitch. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15521
As Humpty said, I went up to eight washers and was able to come down two holes on the L brackets. The junk I mean creature comforts we take really add up. With the 'Roo, it all goes on the tongue. Keeping the fresh water full balances some of that out. I will get my new Sherline scale next week (thanks rip) and I will be able to tell tongue weight. But for now, just count on it being heavy with the Roo.
The tongue weight when I first started the weighing thing was about 1040 lbs. that is probably under the real weight by a 100lbs or so.
david









Also, here is the thread when I first did the weigh thing
http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15000
David


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## skippershe

beachbum said:


> Here's my last post after I had switched out the factory hitch. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15521
> As Humpty said, I went up to eight washers and was able to come down two holes on the L brackets. The junk I mean creature comforts we take really add up. With the 'Roo, it all goes on the tongue. Keeping the fresh water full balances some of that out. I will get my new Sherline scale next week (thanks rip) and I will be able to tell tongue weight. But for now, just count on it being heavy with the Roo.
> The tongue weight when I first started the weighing thing was about 1040 lbs. that is probably under the real weight by a 100lbs or so.
> david
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, here is the thread when I first did the weigh thing
> http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15000
> David


David, was the 1040 lbs loaded or empty? I think we really need one of those Sherline scales...


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## beachbum

skippershe said:


> LOL! biga
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know all about the upside down thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A friend of ours installed our hitch and we couldn't get the TT level for anything. After some time on the phone with Equalizer (Josh) he helped me figure out that the brackets were upside down. I now know this hitch inside and out, because I re-installed it myself (dh had just had back surgery and couldn't help me).
> 
> I just spoke with Dave Hansen at Equalizer, and he told me that one washer does equal one L bracket adjustment. He said he has seen up to 9 on a hitch before. He told me to go with 7 for now and we should be pretty good. He also thought that upgrading to the 14,000 lb set up would be overkill. We use the garage area for camping stuff like the bbq, table and chairs, generator, cooler, things like that...have never even loaded the quad or Harley.
> 
> Has anyone here actually weighed their 28krs's for the tongue weight when empty?? Keystone's website says it's 635 lbs. for the 2006. Even if we loaded the garage to it's 1,000 lb capacity, we would still be way under weight wise for the 12,000 lb Equalizer hitch setup...right??


Keystone's weight is with 1 propane and no batteries. So right off the bat , you have to add 54lbs for additional propane and probably 50lbs for 2 6V batteries (or what you have). they also figure in the fresh water (415lbs) in weight of empty trailer (go figure) and that lowers the tongue weight because it is in the rear. Do you tow with water in grey tanks? that adds weight and a percentage goes to the tongue. So, if you load the cargo area with 1000lbs, you will probably be under the 1200lbs tongue weight that the bars handle, but not by much. It's a major problem in my opinion, when the mfr does not report weights accurately and the consumer tries to make informed decisions based on faulty info from the mfr. I moved to a class V hitch because of the heavy tongue weight of the roo. The GMC 2500 was fine in all the weights, but the hitch was close to being maxxed out, again, mainly by the tongue weight, not the overall trailer weight.
david


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## kbrazielTx

It sounds like beachbum and I have been through the same exercises. I also installed a Class V hitch after weighing our setup. The tongue weight is about 1070 loaded. I also went back a had the dealer give me 1200lb Equlizer in place of the 1000lb one they sold us. I have only traveled with water one time and I have to say it towed very well. The thing is that I do not want to get to close to the GVWR on the trailer and since we all know that tires can be an issue I travel with only a little water for those personal stops along the way.

With the Roo I would expect your tongue weight to be about 1100lbs loaded. But that depends on what you are loading. The main thing is to never load more than the max of what Keystone has on the labels in the cargo area. Believe it or not they have done the math and they know what the limits are. I know this because I spent time on the phone with them after I weighed our 28RSDS.

Good luck and safe travels. 
KB


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## beachbum

skippershe said:


> Here's my last post after I had switched out the factory hitch. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15521
> As Humpty said, I went up to eight washers and was able to come down two holes on the L brackets. The junk I mean creature comforts we take really add up. With the 'Roo, it all goes on the tongue. Keeping the fresh water full balances some of that out. I will get my new Sherline scale next week (thanks rip) and I will be able to tell tongue weight. But for now, just count on it being heavy with the Roo.
> The tongue weight when I first started the weighing thing was about 1040 lbs. that is probably under the real weight by a 100lbs or so.
> david
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, here is the thread when I first did the weigh thing
> http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15000
> David


David, was the 1040 lbs loaded or empty? I think we really need one of those Sherline scales...
[/quote]
That was loaded. I did not believe I was carrying that much junk, so I took everything out and weighed it piece by piece. About 850lbs worth of stuff. Add the regular tongue weight of the trailer and I'm at about 1400lbs. Subtract the 400 lbs fresh water and I'm at about 1000lbs. I am certain the trailer is not overweight, but my next step is to weigh trailer by itself, just to be sure. 15% of 7500lbs trailer weight(max GVWR is 7600) would be 1125lbs tongue weight. Backing in to the numbers, everything looks OK regarding tongue weight. It is at max % though, hence the need for Class V hitch, in my opinion.
david


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