# Winterizing Outback 312Bh



## garrywh (Aug 18, 2014)

Hello fellow Outbackers,

I have a question I was hoping one of you senior/tech types can help me out with.

I own a 2014 Outback 312BH.

When asking my RV dealer the best way to add antifreeze to the system, he recommended since it is parked, I add antifreeze to the fresh water tank then turned on the water pump to circulate it through the system. I tried doing this (I added 30 liters (about 7 gallons) and when I turned the pump on, opened the kitchen cold water faucet, no antifreeze came out. Only water in dribs and drabs came out. No pink! The pump is definitely running. I have never used the fresh water pump so maybe I needed to prime it?

Sorry for the newbie questions, but here are some I would like to ask you all. I will go back to the dealer but maybe your answers can help me out.

1. Did I add enough antifreeze to the fresh water tank? Seems like a lot for me.

2. I tried tilting the unit trailer forwards and backwards using the electric leveler thinking maybe the intake for the pump was on one side of the fresh water tank, but same thing. No antifreeze flowing to the faucets.

3. I originally wanted to add the kit to the pump to circulate the antifreeze directly from the pump itself. This was my preferred method but dealer said it would be easier to circulate from the fresh water tank (since its parked on a seasonal site). After this weekend, I think this is really what I want to do. I attached a picture of the pump. Can someone please confirm that in the picture, the red arrow is pointing to the input to the pump?

4. How do you drain the fresh water tank? I opened a spigot under the fresh water connection but nothing came out. I suspect this is NOT how to flush out the fresh water. I would like to recover the antifreeze already in there and use it through the pump with a dedicated kit. Anyone have any pictures of where this output is? (unit is 1.5 hours away. Would like to know before I head back up this coming weekend),.

Thanks all for your feedback. It is appreciated. I do not have the unit close by, it is 1.5 hour drive away and would definately like to complete the winterization next weekend. The snow and ice will soon be here (Canada).


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

The line you show on your photo is the line shown in the diagram between the water tank and pump. If you have never used your pump it will probably just need to run a while. Open a faucet and let it run to clear air. IMHO, the advice you got was not real helpful. Install the bypass valve and suck the "pink" stuff from a gallon container.... once you get the pump working. Good luck.


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

I have a 312bh. I added a winterization kit. The "kit" basically consists of a brass 3 way valve with a hose that screws onto the tee so that you can pull antifreeze right out of the gallon jug at the water pump. I use 3 gallons of antifreeze to winterize mine. It takes about 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 gallons to purge all of the lines and then I use the remainder to pour some down each drain. I pull the low point drain caps that hang down under the camper below the water heater and open all of the water valves in the trailer to let the water drain out, and then close all of the valves and put the caps back on, pull the water heater plug to let the water drain, and then turn the water heater bypass valve. This valve is behind the panel at the front door of the camper is right next to the water heater. I start at the outdoor kitchen sink, then the bathroom faucets and toilet (be sure to remove the shower hose from the faucet and open the shower head water lever too), then do the kitchen sink.

The fresh water drain valve is about 18" back under the camper under the fresh water connections. There is a valve that you open to drain the water out of the fresh water tank. The only thing I can think of for where the fluid is going is either the pump isn't sucking the fluid from the tank (which I wouldn't personally do it that way) or perhaps you didn't isolate the hot water heater? The hot water heater holds 6 gallons and you wont get water (at least through the hot water lines) until its full and then pushes through the lines.

Take a look a those few things to start and keep asking questions if you have them. There are always people on here willing to chime in...


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## MJV (Apr 19, 2012)

Don't even fool around ! Get a by-pass kit installed. I can winterise my 210RS with 12 ltr. of anti freeze or less. (no antifreeze in water tank) , which includes pouring antifreeze in the traps afterwards. Don't forget the low point drains, the sewer flusher, the outside shower taps. and to "burp" the city water connection. Your dealer gave you real bad advise. Our dealer installs by pass kits on all trailers they sell, as well as offering customers a free winterising school in their shop. Much needed when our winters go to -40.


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## nvsteve (May 19, 2012)

I also think that was bad advice, having pink antifreeze in your fresh tank is a bad idea. Most RV sales people have no idea what they're talking about. Also you don't mention whether you closed off your water heater at the bypass valve. If you didn't, what you are doing when you turn on the pump is that you're just filling up the water heater tank with the antifreeze from your fresh water tank, that's probably why you're not getting any pressure flow to your open faucets. You want to unscrew the water heater drain plug, located outside the trailer behind the heater cover door, to drain the heater then leave that plug out. Then go inside and locate and close the water heater bypass valve, probably behind a cover under a cabinet, (on my 260FL its under the pantry). The reason you close it is because you don't want to fill the water heater tank when you winterize your lines with antifreeze.

AS others have said, install that bypass kit at the pump so you can fill lines directly from the antifreeze jug.

Personally I use the air pressure blowout method. You can buy an air valve adapter (like a tire valve) to screw into your fresh water tank connection at any RV shop. Open all your under trailer drains (two low water hoses and fresh water tank)and unscrew the water heater plug as described above, and turn heater bypass valve. After all the drains stop flowing, put the drain caps back on. Leave the water pump turned off. Now with an air compressor set to 40# max pressure, open one faucet at a time and blow compressed air into the tank for about 30 seconds. Close the faucet and move on to the next one, doing hot and cold sides. Don't forget the shower, and the toilet, and also any outside faucets. Pour a couple cups of pink antifreeze into the kitchen, bath, and shower drains, and also the toilet. now your done.


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## garrywh (Aug 18, 2014)

Thanks all for the advice. Much appreciated.

Thanks Leedek for that diagram and the validation on the suction side of the pump. It is a great help.



> "IMHO, the advice you got was not real helpful. Install the bypass valve and suck the "pink" stuff from a gallon container.... once you get the pump working. Good luck."


This was the guy at the service desk (not sales) so I assumed he was giving good advice. Evidently not.

I did close off the hot water bypass and emptied the tank. Then turned on the city water again just to make sure the valve was in the off position and not refilling the hwt. The pink did not go into the hot water tank.

I have the Polar package and the problem with it is that the underbelly is sealed so I cannot "see" the fresh water tank unless I take it apart. Which is not in the cards&#8230;

I am still unclear why when I opened the spigot under the fresh water tank the anti-freeze did not come out. I think a) maybe something blocked in the tank (highly unlikely) or







the 
fresh water intake not going into the fresh water tank? I will poke a piece of rigid wire up the spigot opening to see if anything is blocked.

I will be installing the bypass valve this weekend and getting the job done. I have an air compressor and will blow out the lines as well.

I will post here instead for advice when I need it. You folks are great!


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Did the RV dealer happen to have RV Antifreeze on "sale" when the tech told you this?







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Get the kit...it will be SOOOOO much easier next time.


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## TTNewbie (Jul 23, 2012)

Sorry for the hijack, but MJV, how on earth did you get the bypass installed on your 210rs? I tried last winter and s short of being a contortionist, I couldn't see how to make it happen. I ended up giving up and just pumping through the lines as op was told to do.


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Seems like everyone has their own take on how they prefer to winterize. I find it much easier to simply use a air compressor attached to the city inlet to blow out the lines. I will use the bypass kit that I installed at the pump to introduce a small amount of antifreeze in the pump and dump a small amount into black tank, being sure to keep an adequate amount of antifreeze on top of toilet valve so that the flapper seal will not dry out over the winter storage season. By adding antifreeze to the fresh water tank as was recommended to the OP by the dealer causes not only wasted product but also more time needed to flush, reflush and reflush after that to get the fresh water tank cleaned out and sanitized in the spring to get that pink juice taste out of the tank.

To the OP; it sounds like your unit is on a permanent site and you don't use your fresh water tank and pump an a regular basis. You said that you added approximately 7 gallons of antifreeze to the fresh water tank, yet nothing will pump out. Does anything register on the tank monitor gauge? Are you sure that the fresh water tank drain was not accidentally open when you added the antifreeze to the tank and it simply drained onto the ground when you poured it in the tank? When you run the water pump with all of the faucets closed for 30 seconds or so, does air pressure build up in the water lines?


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

When I was having troubles with my fresh water and pump in my 210RS I got busy with my trust box cutter. The 1/8" material under the sofa got cut away for easier access. I trimmed it better than it looks in this photo but it is still open under the sofa. I am too old to stand on my shoulder using both hands to undo connectors that don't disconnect easily. Hey.... it works!







The drawer on the right slides on rolls in a track. Gives me some extra storage space. Like my classy sofa support???







Please excuse our dust remodel in progress!

AS IT LOOKS TODAY!


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## TTNewbie (Jul 23, 2012)

Brilliant, Leedek! Looks like a great project to add for this winter.


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## MJV (Apr 19, 2012)

TTNewbie said:


> Sorry for the hijack, but MJV, how on earth did you get the bypass installed on your 210rs? I tried last winter and s short of being a contortionist, I couldn't see how to make it happen. I ended up giving up and just pumping through the lines as op was told to do.
> 
> Hi.
> The by pas kit was already installed by the dealer. To make access easier I re-configured the large panel under the sofa, so it just slides out. then by propping the sofa half way open I have fairly easy access to the pump, and all of that wasted storage space they had just covered up. My prop up for the sofa is similar to Ledeek's, however I trimmed and re-configured that top panel (that he had removed the piece from) so it slides out between the sofa bottom frame. I did not make a drawer, and do not have to un screw the fabric "front" to gain access to the under sofa area. By the way his dust must have spread to mine! LOL ----- MJV


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## Tourdfox (Oct 4, 2012)

here is another option for easy access.


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