# Chevy Silverado Crew Cab & Ob 301Bq/312Bh



## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Newb here, so easy with me. I tried the FAQs, but it takes me to a dead/broken link. I have been lurking on here for a few hours last night (actually had to convince myself to give it a break at 2 A.M last night) and this morning, trying to arrive at what I think I already have come to conclude. I currently have a 2005 Silverado Crew Cab w/ 5.3L & 3.73 gears, 5'8 bed. We are considereing the OB312BH and might possibly consider the OB301BQ after the local dealer gets it in. Has/is anyone currently running this combination, and if so please give input/experiences? I would also like to know if anyone is towing with a 2005 or newer 2500HD w/ 6.0L & 3.73 gears as well, STD bed (6') 153" WB. I am in the midwest (St. Louis, MO)and new to all of this, and both vehicles are 2WD. My 1500 Silverado is only at about 41,000 miles and I would hate to part with it to buy the 2500 if the 1500 is up for the task. Right now, I have just located a 2500 that seems to be reasonably priced, and am debating on whether to pursue it. I would love to hear about either of the 2 TTs as well. Thanks.


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## Duanesz (Jul 10, 2009)

Someone will chime in soon. Just from the first impression it will be a bit much for a 1/2ton. What are the exact weights on the camper with tongue weight too.

Duane


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Basically, all I have is the OB brochure that gives the shipping weights. They are 6990 lbs. for the 301BQ, and 7440 for the 312BH. Hitch weights are 630 for the 301 and 720 for the 312, and the carrying capacities are 1210 and 1560 respectively. 301 is 33'6" and the 312 is 35'5". They both have 50 gallon holding tanks and 60 lb. propane. Grey water tanks are 60 gallon and blacks are 30 gallon each.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

The Silverado 1500 powertrain will struggle, and most likely will die an early death with either of those trailers. They both weigh over 7000# dry weight, and that does not include propane, battery, awning, hitch and associated gear. And then there is your camping gear in the trailer. I'm not sure what the GVWR of your truck is, but your tongue weight will probably exceed 900# - pushing 1000# by the time you load your trailer and add a battery and full propane tanks. Then add your gear in the bed, people, and your truck may be overweight by then.

Then there is the problem of the soft 1/2-ton truck suspension trying to control 30' 0r 33' of trailer - the tail wagging the dog. While everything might appear OK when driving down a flat stretch of highway on a calm day, things can get scary with 25-30 mph crosswinds, heavy rain, and the idiots out there that cause you to have to make emergency maneuvers from time to time.

PAy no attention to what the salesman is saying. And I bet he's telling you that your truck will easily pull either unit. But his job is to sell you a trailer. Yours is to make a sensible decision. You are wise to seek input here. It sounds like you already know the answer, but are hoping someone will tell you it's OK. In my opinion, it is not.

I had a 2003 Suburban 1500 when we bought our 29BHS. The 29BHS is similar to the trailers you are looking at, but ours is a little lighter and shorter. After four short "white knuckle" trips (nothing more than 150 miles RT), I traded for our current 2500HD Crew Cab. Towing is now pleasureable. With the Equal-i-zer hitch, I hardly know it's back there.

I know you'd like either of those trailers, but they are too much for your truck to tow reliably and safely.

That's just my experienced opinion. Others may disagree. In the end, only you can decide how much you want to push your 1/2-ton pickup.

Mike


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Scoutr2 said:


> .....
> Then there is the problem of the soft 1/2-ton truck suspension trying to control 30' 0r 33' of trailer - the tail wagging the dog. While everything might appear OK when driving down a flat stretch of highway on a calm day, things can get scary with 25-30 mph crosswinds, heavy rain, and the idiots out there that cause you to have to make emergency maneuvers from time to time.
> 
> PAy no attention to what the salesman is saying. And I bet he's telling you that your truck will easily pull either unit. But his job is to sell you a trailer. Yours is to make a sensible decision. You are wise to seek input here. It sounds like you already know the answer, but are hoping someone will tell you it's OK. In my opinion, it is not.
> .....


A big X2 here.


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## Duanesz (Jul 10, 2009)

Scoutr2 said:


> The Silverado 1500 powertrain will struggle, and most likely will die an early death with either of those trailers. They both weigh over 7000# dry weight, and that does not include propane, battery, awning, hitch and associated gear. And then there is your camping gear in the trailer. I'm not sure what the GVWR of your truck is, but your tongue weight will probably exceed 900# - pushing 1000# by the time you load your trailer and add a battery and full propane tanks. Then add your gear in the bed, people, and your truck may be overweight by then.
> 
> Then there is the problem of the soft 1/2-ton truck suspension trying to control 30' 0r 33' of trailer - the tail wagging the dog. While everything might appear OK when driving down a flat stretch of highway on a calm day, things can get scary with 25-30 mph crosswinds, heavy rain, and the idiots out there that cause you to have to make emergency maneuvers from time to time.
> 
> ...


Kind of what I was thinking. You need to find out what the payload cap of your truck is. If its 1500lbs and the fully loaded tongue wt of 900lbs that would only leave you 600lbs. This is what proves it to me. Thats alot of trailer over 30ft long. They have these half tons that will pull lots of weight but cant handle payloads as well as 3/4 or 1 ton.

Good luck with your decision if your going to upgrade the truck anyway go for it. If your stuck in your current truck for a while then you might need to look at smaller units.

What are you going to do with this camper lots of traveling or just taking it to local campgrounds within 50mi of your home? There was a good thread on the towing section a while ago with a lady who was towing with a durango and was on the edge of her weight limits. Some people made some good suggestions to make her towing a better experience. I think she even stated that she would have been better off picking the smaller trailer.

Duane


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Maybe some 301 and 312 owners can post acutal weights. I'm betting the tonge is closer to 1200 lbs loaded, ready to camp....


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Thanks Mike, I definitely don't just want someone to just tell me it's OK, but I don't want to do overkill either. I have tried to digest a lot over the past couple of days, so now I am just trying to clear a few things up. We will probably just be doing short runs, but a wind gust or speeding trucker doesn't care whether you encounter it 5 miles from the house or 500 miles from the house. If I have to consider a 3/4 ton truck then, I want to be looking for the right one. The one I've found has the 3.73 setup in it, and it seems somewhere on here I got mixed opinions of the 3.73 vs the 4.10 set up. I see you have the 4:10 gears. Have you any experience with the 2500HD with the 3.73 gears? We may decide to set out on a lengthy trek, I just want to make sure that whatever we pick will be a good combination. Thanks again, I've got way more time than money.


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## dhdb (Dec 14, 2009)

I have a 301BQ and tow it with an '04 2500 Ram (4:10). When we brought it home from the dealer, you couldn't tell it was behind us. After we loaded it up with gear, big difference. I have not had my set-up weighed, hopefully sometime soon. IMHO I couldn't imagine pulling the 301 with a 1500. Too much TT for a 1500.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

dhdb, are you saying that the big difference with the loaded 301BQ is an issue for even the 2500, or just using that as an example that you went from not noticing the trailer to definintely noticing the difference that your gear makes? I know some people don't realize how much weight they add with gear after they load their truck and their trailer. I was pretty much already at the having to step up to a bigger truck or settling for a smaller trailer (not)! My concern now is whether the 4.10s are a definite must have or not. Who knows the terrain we will decide to embark on, so if I need to consider gearing more, I'd rather do it now. I know bad a** boys drive bad a** toys, but I want to be able to get the truck in the garage, so I don't want to overdo it with the truck, not the 3.73 vs. 4.10 changes whether or not it will fit in the garage. I just want to go forward hunting for the right truck. Again, thanks all.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Current truck is paid for, Mike (anybody looking for a daily driver? We would probably be doing mostly weekend getaways with an occaisional longer journey. I don't want to upgrade trucks and then find myself limited with where we can go, so that's where I'm a little confused on whether the 4.10s are a must or if the 3.73s will suffice with a 3/4 ton and either of these trailers. I would say that the trailer would be for the long haul. 2 of my boys are 5 & 7 now, and the other 2 are grown and would probably only tag along here and there, so either trailer should fit us well for quite some time. Truck would be my regular driver, though obviously not much, the '05 only has about 41,000 miles on it.


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## deanintemp (Apr 3, 2007)

We have a 2005 Suburban 1500 (5.3L V8) pulling our 2005 26RS. While this rig pulls our trailer fine and very controlled, I probably wouldn't want to pull anything bigger and/or heavier. Fully loaded we are at 6,800# and 780# tongue weight. I would put that at the "comfortable" limit of any 1/2 ton truck...just my opinion.


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## rsm7 (Aug 8, 2009)

If you buy a 2500 (which you should) you will be good with either rear end. The 4.10 is better for towing the 3.73 maybe a little better around town. You dont drive it much so 4.10 would be my choice but you can tackle any road or hill with a 3.73 too. You dont always get what you want when shopping used. While you are looking dont rule out a diesel if you come across a deal.


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

well, i would not want to pull my 301BQ with a 150/1500 series truck. fully loaded, i am about 8200lbs on my trailer, and that is ready to dry camp, with the fresh water tank full. grey and black of course empty. tongue weight dry brand new with 60lbs. of propane was right on the factory specs of 700lbs. but loaded i am a little over 1000lbs. with a 150/1500 series truck, you will not be happy with the towing experience, and you will not have enough payload to carry all the other stuff you might / will need with a family.

when i was shopping for our upgrade to this trailer, we had a 1500 RAM HEMI with 3.92 gears pulling a jayco jayfeather EXP 26L hybrid. we knew we wanted to upgrade to a full hardside, and i wanted to find one that the dodge could pull. when we saw the 301BQ, we knew that was the trailer for us (and i think when you see it, you will like the layout and the way it rewards you and the kids over the 312BH). i briefly contemplated stripping down the dodge, taking the cap off, not carrying firewood or a genset, etc, basically turning it into a driving gas can with just the family. but i quickly changed that theory, as the dodge would just get beat to all hell, and i would be miserable with the towing experience and lack of payload for our gear. the math was at the wall, and i hadn't even gone anywhere or done a mod yet.

there is no reason why the dealer should not let you hook your truck up to either trailer and take it for a test tow. tell them you want to see how it feels. it is done all the time.....


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## Duanesz (Jul 10, 2009)

I dont think with the limited miles you drive the 4.10 would cost you that much in fuel on a daily basis. The 4.10 would be worth its weight in gold when towing. That being said if you can find a truck with 4.10s then go for it.

I see your current truck is 2wd so if you get another truck will it be 2wd also? If so then if you find a truck that has 3.73 gears you could try it out. I would venture to guess switching to 4.10s would be around 500 bucks on a 2wd.

Duane


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## CautiousCamper (Jun 27, 2006)

I am pretty sure you will be beyond your ~7000 lbs GVWR of the truck with only a few things in it( people included). I also believe you will exceed the recommended GCVW for truck and trailer. It's not a matter of whether the truck can pull the trailer. Technically, lots of trucks can pull based on horsepower - some not as well as better equipped ones. It's a matter of exceeding towing and weight ratings recommendations from truck manufacturers. You can argue they are too conservative but I would say to follow the guidelines to ensure you don't beat your truck to death and at the same time maintain a degree of safety - for yourself as well as others.


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## wolverine (Mar 5, 2009)

I just traded my 99 Suburban for a 2007 Silverado Crew Cab 1500HD, which is a 2500HD truck with lighter springs. It has the same frame and drive train as the 2500HD. My truck has 3.73 gears and it pulls my trailer (21RS @ 6,000 lbs) easy, but if I was going to get a trailer as big as the one you are looking at, I would go for 4.10 gears or a diesel. I get 12.5 mpg around town and I get 8.5 mpg towing. One of the biggest things that I noticed different from my suburban to my 1500HD is the brakes. This truck will stop in half the distance.


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

I have to agree with what everyone else is saying although, you do have another option - go for a smaller trailer. That is the route we took when we posted a very similar question many years ago right here in this forum and received answers very similar to the ones that you are getting. We had a 1/2 ton Ford F150 and wanted a 31' Outback 28RSDS. Truck was paid for. We also though to ourselves, "hmm, we might find that this RV thing may actually be the pits so let's get started with a lower monetary commitment". Of course that notion went away the first night we stayed in it.







Come to find out, we haven't regretted the smaller trailer in fact, it has worked in our favor considering where we go and what we do when camping. A couple years later, when Ford started doing employee pricing deals, we jumped on a 3/4 ton Superduty and sold our F150. Haven't regretted that decision either









I will say that now that we have 3 kids, it does get cozy with all of us in there but that is primarily due to the 23RS not having a side slide. If we had a choice, we would find a 31' (preferably shorter) mid or low profile 5'er with quad bunks and a side-aisle bath. When an RV mfg. makes one like that, we will buy it. A 5'er like that would help a great deal with the space issue but even at 31', that would be the biggest thing we would feel comfortable towing considering the places we go camping. But then again, we did not buy the camper to spend time in it. We go camping to go hiking, fishing, swimming and to experience the outdoors. We do not go "resorting" except when we go to Outbacker Rallies that are held at that type of place







.

-CC


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

I have been doing some more searching on another site, and what I am hearing is that the newer 6 speed tranny (2007 up)and the 3.73s that are in the 2009 that I looked at, are better than past set ups. The tranny seems to find the gear and not hunt for it as much. There's even talk of better fuel economy than in the 4 speed models. There is also the electronic brake control and the ability to manually shift the 6 speed in the '09 2500HD. Has anyone had any dealings with this newer setup. I have searched locally, for 2010 models and Chevy.com turns up none within 150 miles of me and only (2) 2011 models. Basically, they're hard to find right now, and I guess it's model year change time at Chevy.


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## Justman (Jul 22, 2006)

Like others, I don't think a 1/2 ton would handle either of those trailers. Looks like you're in the market for a new truck! If you wind up getting a new vehicle, I would suggest a 3/4 ton diesel. If you get a diesel, you'll be fine with either a 3.73 or 4.10. If you get a gasser, suggest you go with the 4.10 rear end.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

The 3:73 rear end will get you better gas mileage than the 4:10, but it will take you longer to get up to speed and you will drive slowly up steep and/or long grades. I have a 2007 Classic 2500HD pickup with the 6.0L engine. My 4-speed HD transmission is really closer to 8-speed, with the torque converter lockup clutch. My best fuel economy comes when I can keep the torque converter locked up, but if I encounter a grade that's long enough or steep enough, the clutch unlocks and I go to converter drive. Engine RPM goes up a couple hundred, but the tranny stays in OD. Occasionally, I downshift to 3rd. The 3:73 gearing would cause you to downshift quite frequently to 3rd, or 2nd, on steeper grades.

That said - highway economy with the 4:10s, without towing, is a whopping 14 mpg. With the trailer in tow, we averaged 8.5 mpg on our 2500 mile RT to the Black Hills - Rushmore area. But I must add that we've taken the trailer on three trips of 2000+ miles, and we always make a 600 mile RT to Wisconsin Dells every summer. I can enjoy driving, knowing that I have the suspension and the power to handle the load. I still have to keep in mind that I'm commanding a 50' long 6-ton rig down the road, but I don't have to fight it.

Your scenario sounds like us - taking 6 to 8 weekend trips and a long vacation each year - maybe a 4-5 day trip too. I don't drive far to work (12 mile round trip), but I still picked up a 2003 Malibu as a daily driver (and my 15 year old DD starts driver's ed this fall). So I have the truck when I need it, but the smaller older car for day to day stuff.

The diesel/Allison would be nice, but add another $5-6K used prices and $8K new. I couldn't justify the expense. (But I wish I had one!) The 2500HD Silverado would be ideal for you. Rear end gearing is your decision.

That is just my $.02. You'll be investing just a few more $$, so do what seems right for you. It was within my means but may not be comfortable for you. And it has to be right for your family, too. There are a lot of things to consider. The only thing I can do is give a little friendly advice, based on my experiences.

Good luck. Hope you find the right rig!

Mike


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## Bob in Virginia (Jul 15, 2010)

Looking up the towing capacity in TrailerLife.com, the 2wd 5.3l 3.73 is rated at 7700 lbs. While it is below the dry weight for the trailer, you will easily go over that once loaded, even minimally. Changing gears to 4.10 may help with pulling, the manufacturer still rates it at 7700 with the 4.10.

I am pulling a 301BQ with a Silverado 2500 HD diesel. There is no way I would try pulling with a 1500 for very long. While in optimal conditions, it may be ok, the load would decrease your vehicle life considerably, and if you had an emergency stop or something else come up, I don't think you would be a happy camper.

I love my 301QB, great floorplan and well made, as long as you have the right rig to tow it.


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## K. Smith (May 25, 2009)

Pretty obvious choice, as others have stated. Get a 3/4 ton truck (preferably a diesel) or get a smaller trailer. I have the same truck and it doesn't tow our 27RSDS worth a crap. Oh, it's fine on flat land. Keep the speed over 65 or 70 and you can take hills okay, but that makes for white knuckle (and dangerous) driving because the sway increases. Give it a big hill, or follow a slow poke on a two lane road and it will barely creep up. And it seemed to get weaker the more I tried to tow with it.

Anyway, that's my $.02

Kevin


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Convinced that the 1500 I have isn't the workhorse for the task. Drove an '07 F250 with the 6.0 diesel today. Felt good and powerful, but the salesman warned me that the 6.0 is the least desired diesel in the fords. Looking for a GMC/Chevy 2500HD with the duramax. Does anyone have either of these in the '07 or newer with the factory trailer brake controller and electronic manual gear shift? Is the brake controller as good as an after market one?


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

srwsr said:


> Convinced that the 1500 I have isn't the workhorse for the task. Drove an '07 F250 with the 6.0 diesel today. Felt good and powerful, but the salesman warned me that the 6.0 is the least desired diesel in the fords. Looking for a GMC/Chevy 2500HD with the duramax. Does anyone have either of these in the '07 or newer with the factory trailer brake controller and electronic manual gear shift? Is the brake controller as good as an after market one?


The '06 and '07 years for the 6.0L Ford PowerStroke Diesel were the best years for that engine. It is powerful and if you are diligent on normal maintenance it should do very well. Diesels generally require more costly normal maintenance. I have a '06 Ford PSD. I pay around $90 for an oil change at a rural dealer.

The integrated factory brake controller is always desired over aftermarket brake controllers (at least in the Fords, and I assume in GM's as well). The integrated controllers brake the trailer when you brake. Aftermarket controllers rely on inertia sensors to sense braking..and apply the trailer brakes.

If you get a gasser, I think the 4.10's would definitely be helpful to better the towing experience; but not a deal breaker if you find the right truck. If you find a diesel, the 3.73 would be just fine. In fact, I think you'll likely not see a 4.10 in a diesel unless it was customized, or a dually.


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## pocman (Apr 9, 2010)

luverofpeanuts said:


> Convinced that the 1500 I have isn't the workhorse for the task. Drove an '07 F250 with the 6.0 diesel today. Felt good and powerful, but the salesman warned me that the 6.0 is the least desired diesel in the fords. Looking for a GMC/Chevy 2500HD with the duramax. Does anyone have either of these in the '07 or newer with the factory trailer brake controller and electronic manual gear shift? Is the brake controller as good as an after market one?


The '06 and '07 years for the 6.0L Ford PowerStroke Diesel were the best years for that engine. It is powerful and if you are diligent on normal maintenance it should do very well. Diesels generally require more costly normal maintenance. I have a '06 Ford PSD. I pay around $90 for an oil change at a rural dealer.

The integrated factory brake controller is always desired over aftermarket brake controllers (at least in the Fords, and I assume in GM's as well). The integrated controllers brake the trailer when you brake. Aftermarket controllers rely on inertia sensors to sense braking..and apply the trailer brakes.

If you get a gasser, I think the 4.10's would definitely be helpful to better the towing experience; but not a deal breaker if you find the right truck. If you find a diesel, the 3.73 would be just fine. In fact, I think you'll likely not see a 4.10 in a diesel unless it was customized, or a dually.
[/quote]

I have a 301BQ and tow it with an 2010 F150 with max tow package 5.4 3.73. I just returned from a 1500kms trip with the camper from Gros Morne National Park area of Newfoundland (for anyone who knows this area), it is very hilly. I averaged 11.6mpg towing this trailer. Coming home today I encountered 50-60 km crosswinds and maintained 90kms/hr no problem. I have an Equalizer hitch on the truck, which helps. I do not travel with fresh water in the tank, always fill up at the park. We are a family of 3, I keep meaning to get the truck and trailer weighed, there is a weigh scale just up the highway from where I live. This combo works well for me.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

pocman said:


> I have a 301BQ and tow it with an 2010 F150 with max tow package 5.4 3.73. I just returned from a 1500kms trip with the camper from Gros Morne National Park area of Newfoundland (for anyone who knows this area), it is very hilly. I averaged 11.6mpg towing this trailer. Coming home today I encountered 50-60 km crosswinds and maintained 90kms/hr no problem. I have an Equalizer hitch on the truck, which helps. I do not travel with fresh water in the tank, always fill up at the park. We are a family of 3, I keep meaning to get the truck and trailer weighed, there is a weigh scale just up the highway from where I live. This combo works well for me.


What cab configuration is your F150? Stock or does it have some mods? Regular cab and extended cab F150's will have more payload room. If you have the crew cab then you are likely very close if not over when loaded up. Again, those are just numbers though...what matters is how it performs...and it sounds like it performs good for you.


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## pocman (Apr 9, 2010)

luverofpeanuts said:


> I have a 301BQ and tow it with an 2010 F150 with max tow package 5.4 3.73. I just returned from a 1500kms trip with the camper from Gros Morne National Park area of Newfoundland (for anyone who knows this area), it is very hilly. I averaged 11.6mpg towing this trailer. Coming home today I encountered 50-60 km crosswinds and maintained 90kms/hr no problem. I have an Equalizer hitch on the truck, which helps. I do not travel with fresh water in the tank, always fill up at the park. We are a family of 3, I keep meaning to get the truck and trailer weighed, there is a weigh scale just up the highway from where I live. This combo works well for me.


What cab configuration is your F150? Stock or does it have some mods? Regular cab and extended cab F150's will have more payload room. If you have the crew cab then you are likely very close if not over when loaded up. Again, those are just numbers though...what matters is how it performs...and it sounds like it performs good for you.
[/quote]

Mine is the crew cab version, 7700lbs gvwr......


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## Ish (Jun 15, 2010)

pocman said:


> I have a 301BQ and tow it with an 2010 F150 with max tow package 5.4 3.73. I just returned from a 1500kms trip with the camper from Gros Morne National Park area of Newfoundland (for anyone who knows this area), it is very hilly. I averaged 11.6mpg towing this trailer. Coming home today I encountered 50-60 km crosswinds and maintained 90kms/hr no problem. I have an Equalizer hitch on the truck, which helps. I do not travel with fresh water in the tank, always fill up at the park. We are a family of 3, I keep meaning to get the truck and trailer weighed, there is a weigh scale just up the highway from where I live. This combo works well for me.


Is that kilometers per gallon or miles per gallon? Sounds like I have the exact same truck and I can't average over 10 mpg with a 250rs when I'm pushing 60 - 65mph.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Ish said:


> I have a 301BQ and tow it with an 2010 F150 with max tow package 5.4 3.73. I just returned from a 1500kms trip with the camper from Gros Morne National Park area of Newfoundland (for anyone who knows this area), it is very hilly. I averaged 11.6mpg towing this trailer. Coming home today I encountered 50-60 km crosswinds and maintained 90kms/hr no problem. I have an Equalizer hitch on the truck, which helps. I do not travel with fresh water in the tank, always fill up at the park. We are a family of 3, I keep meaning to get the truck and trailer weighed, there is a weigh scale just up the highway from where I live. This combo works well for me.


Is that kilometers per gallon or miles per gallon? Sounds like I have the exact same truck and I can't average over 10 mpg with a 250rs when I'm pushing 60 - 65mph.
[/quote]
Or is it miles per Imperial gallon? that would be 9.66 mpg (US gal)


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## joeymac (Aug 19, 2010)

I have a Ford F-150 Crew Cab 5.4L 4WD and a 3.73 rear end, and OB 312bh. It does struggle some going up hills, I don&#146;t try to pass anyone, but does fine with handling. I have a dual cam WDH which makes a big difference, compared to the friction sway I had at first. Just took a 12 hr RT vacation, and had no issues. Make sure you have LT tires, cause if you have passenger tires your really going to hate it. 
I will say that the majority of our trips are only 2-3 hrs away, and we go camping about 8 times a year. We don&#146;t do any cross country trips, I would recommend going to a 3/4 ton if that is your intentions. I will also say that at some point in the next year or so we are going to upgrade to a 250. (Almost have the 150 paid off) I am always on the wife about packing smart, and loading the camper properly, because i am very conscious of the weight issue. We are very close to the limit of this truck. That is why I want to go to a 250. Would like a diesel, however, I don&#146;t want the period maintenance expenses that follows a diesel. Plus the wife drives the truck around town, kids to school etc. and I like the mpg we get from a gas truck. (16-19 mpg's)

Just my 2 cents.


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## pocman (Apr 9, 2010)

joeymac said:


> I have a Ford F-150 Crew Cab 5.4L 4WD and a 3.73 rear end. It does struggle some going up hills, I don't try to pass anyone, but does fine with handling. I have a dual cam WDH which makes a big difference, compared to the friction sway I had at first. Just took a 12 hr RT vacation, and had no issues. Make sure you have LT tires, cause if you have passenger tires your really going to hate it.
> I will say that the majority of our trips are only 2-3 hrs away, and we go camping about 8 times a year. We don't do any cross country trips, I would recommend going to a 3/4 ton if that is your intentions. I will also say that at some point in the next year or so we are going to upgrade to a 250. (Almost have the 150 paid off) I am always on the wife about packing smart, and loading the camper properly, because i am very conscious of the weight issue. We are very close to the limit of this truck. That is why I want to go to a 250. Would like a diesel, however, I don't want the period maintenance expenses that follows a diesel. Plus the wife drives the truck around town, kids to school etc. and I like the mpg we get from a gas truck. (16-19 mpg's)
> 
> Just my 2 cents.


Well said Joeymac. This pretty much sums up my experience with my truck and trailer a well. We camp from mid May to 1st week in Sept, maybe get out about 8-10 times if lucky. Nathan, you were right about my numbers, I averaged 9.8 US MPG, traveling at about 60mph. Total distance was 897.26 miles and 91.81 gallons.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Thanks to all that have chimed in, and not to get off subject, but how necessary is 4 wheel drive? We are not planning any off road type activities, but I found a diesel that is 2 wheel drive.


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## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

srwsr said:


> Thanks to all that have chimed in, and not to get off subject, but how necessary is 4 wheel drive? We are not planning any off road type activities, but I found a diesel that is 2 wheel drive.


Unless you have to worry about snow, all four wheel drive does for you on a 3/4 ton is get you more stuck in a situation you should never have been in in the first place







Don't ask me how I know


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

TexanThompsons said:


> Thanks to all that have chimed in, and not to get off subject, but how necessary is 4 wheel drive? We are not planning any off road type activities, but I found a diesel that is 2 wheel drive.


Unless you have to worry about snow, all four wheel drive does for you on a 3/4 ton is get you more stuck in a situation you should never have been in in the first place







Don't ask me how I know








[/quote]
Uhh, that can apply for snow too...









Remember that truck 4wd's aren't like the AWD systems on cars and SUV's.... You should not drive in 4WD on dry pavement. When in 4WD, the tires are mechanically locked, but the fronts are turning slightly faster than the rears. Therefore, something has to slip and the only thing that can do so without doing mechanical damage is the tires. This is why you shouldn't run 4WD on a surface where you have good traction...

If you are not going to be in the snow or sand, I'd go with 2wd with a limited slip rear end. Especially with the weight of the trailer on the back, that is all you will ever need. However, if you are going to be commuting in a snowy climate, I'd highly recommend the 4wd. Diesel's have so much torque that it's too easy to get them spinning and then you'll wish you had 4WD...


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## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

Nathan said:


> Thanks to all that have chimed in, and not to get off subject, but how necessary is 4 wheel drive? We are not planning any off road type activities, but I found a diesel that is 2 wheel drive.


Unless you have to worry about snow, all four wheel drive does for you on a 3/4 ton is get you more stuck in a situation you should never have been in in the first place







Don't ask me how I know








[/quote]
Uhh, that can apply for snow too...









Remember that truck 4wd's aren't like the AWD systems on cars and SUV's.... You should not drive in 4WD on dry pavement. When in 4WD, the tires are mechanically locked, but the fronts are turning slightly faster than the rears. Therefore, something has to slip and the only thing that can do so without doing mechanical damage is the tires. This is why you shouldn't run 4WD on a surface where you have good traction...

If you are not going to be in the snow or sand, I'd go with 2wd with a limited slip rear end. Especially with the weight of the trailer on the back, that is all you will ever need. However, if you are going to be commuting in a snowy climate, I'd highly recommend the 4wd. Diesel's have so much torque that it's too easy to get them spinning and then you'll wish you had 4WD...
[/quote]

Ya, my point was that unless you have alot of snow, no reason for 4x4. I have it because I use my excursion at the deer lease. I'm often having to take clients out to our land for hunting and I'm finding its working out much better than my crew cab was.

Oh, and ditto on all the nerdy, er, I mean technical stuff Nathan said


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

Nathan said:


> When in 4WD, the tires are mechanically locked, but the fronts are turning slightly faster than the rears. Therefore, something has to slip and the only thing that can do so without doing mechanical damage is the tires.


This can get dizzy-ing to think about if you really want to figure out 4WD..... The way I've come to understand it, In most pickup truck 4WD, when you put the truck in 4WD, the transfer case locks the front and rear drive train together. The differentials in the drivetrains re the important things to look at.

An open differential, even when in 4WD, that means if one wheel is spinning or off the ground, the other wheel won't do anything to drive you forward. This is usually "good enough" unless you are in demanding applications that need the advantages of a limited slip differential or even a full locking differential, where a spinning wheel won't cause the drivetrain to be useless...but will still move the other wheel.

In the rear, most stock trucks will have an open differential, or a limited slip differential. The limited slip is definitely desirable in 2WD and 4WD vehicles, and not too uncommon. The front is almost always an open differential.

Do you need 4WD or not? That all depends on your applications...but I think it's nice to have when you need it.... especially if you DON'T have a limited slip rear. We camped at a group campsite a couple of months ago where there wasn't really a parking pad. Instead, it was an open area. I had loads of problems maneuvering the trailer into a parking spot because the ground was grass that was damp/wet. I had to use 4WD, and still was afraid of getting into situation where I was more or less stuck because my wheels were spinning. I do not have a limited slip rear, but hope to upgrade sometime in the next year or so.


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

Nearly 12mpg towing in an F150??? Nathan - did you guys start selling diesel F150's in Canada???









-CC


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## Ish (Jun 15, 2010)

collinsfam_tx said:


> Nearly 12mpg towing in an F150??? Nathan - did you guys start selling diesel F150's in Canada???
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I think we reconciled that to be while drinking an imperial stout


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## Wayne-o (Oct 14, 2009)

I'm towing an OB 312BH with a 2009 GMC Sierra 2500 HD Diesel. 5 kids, a dog and 1200 lbs of camping "necessities" go everywhere. Just got back from a 2 week, 5 stop trip that included New Hampshire, Maine, New Brunswick Canada, Vermont and Pennsylvania. Over 1500 miles, no worries. I don't recall the rear end gearing but the 2500 HD with an Allison 6 speed does well. I really like the oil burner, but it is tricky getting diesel on some of the country roads. Planning to add an extended range tank, probably should have gotten it before the last trip but then again, it's good to want.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

OK, drove from St. Louis to LaGrange, KY yesterday. Traded the 05 for an 08 Chevy 2500HD Duramax. 1 step closer & a whole lot more confident. Went by the local RV dealer today & seen the familiar salesman. Showed him the HD to let him know I was serious & hadn't fallen off the path. Waited for him to express how eager he was to deal with me, after they sold 60 units at the show that was here last weekend, and then let him know that I was less than 100 miles from Holman RV when I picked up the truck, and that they are not shy about expressing the fact that they are wholesalers. I told him to check them out so that he could see that he was priced well over what they show as the MSRP (THOUSANDSSSSS), and that I could have it delivered for +/- $600 or spend 2-3 hundred $$$ in DIESEL and go pick it up myself.

On another note, and I will search to keep this from getting too far off topic, but on the return trip with the new HD, I filled up before leaving Kentucky, and the fuel range showed more than enough to make it home. About 60 miles from home, the fuel gauge was buried past E, and the range had fallen to where it would only say "low fuel". The truck was showing that we had burned about 18 gallons of fuel and were averaging about 15 miles per gallon. Trip odometer said we had driven about 230 miles from last fill up, which was about right. So, if you do the math, there is about a 40 mile or 2.5 gallon difference. I pulled in and filled her up, and she took a little over 17 gallons of fuel, in what's supposed to be a 26 gallon tank. This morning I called the service department at the local dealer to question this and had the VIN ran to check the build sheet to verify actual fuel tank size, which is 26 gallon. The dealer said that diesel foams, so this could have led to the pump shutting off prior to being completely filled. The guy I talked to also said that the fuel sending unit is probably set to show empty when there is still about 6 gallons left in the tank. When I got out today, I also refilled the tank and it took about the same amount of gas that the truck showed I had burned since the fill up on the way home. Is this common? Are there any more Duramax or diesel guys that can clue me in, otherwise I'm taking it to the dealer for them to look into it? I'm tempted to fill a 5 gallon can, and then set out to run it out of gas after it shows empty, and see how long it takes to run out.


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

srwsr said:


> OK, drove from St. Louis to LaGrange, KY yesterday. Traded the 05 for an 08 Chevy 2500HD Duramax. 1 step closer & a whole lot more confident. Went by the local RV dealer today & seen the familiar salesman. Showed him the HD to let him know I was serious & hadn't fallen off the path. Waited for him to express how eager he was to deal with me, after they sold 60 units at the show that was here last weekend, and then let him know that I was less than 100 miles from Holman RV when I picked up the truck, and that they are not shy about expressing the fact that they are wholesalers. I told him to check them out so that he could see that he was priced well over what they show as the MSRP (THOUSANDSSSSS), and that I could have it delivered for +/- $600 or spend 2-3 hundred $$$ in DIESEL and go pick it up myself.
> 
> On another note, and I will search to keep this from getting too far off topic, but on the return trip with the new HD, I filled up before leaving Kentucky, and the fuel range showed more than enough to make it home. About 60 miles from home, the fuel gauge was buried past E, and the range had fallen to where it would only say "low fuel". The truck was showing that we had burned about 18 gallons of fuel and were averaging about 15 miles per gallon. Trip odometer said we had driven about 230 miles from last fill up, which was about right. So, if you do the math, there is about a 40 mile or 2.5 gallon difference. I pulled in and filled her up, and she took a little over 17 gallons of fuel, in what's supposed to be a 26 gallon tank. This morning I called the service department at the local dealer to question this and had the VIN ran to check the build sheet to verify actual fuel tank size, which is 26 gallon. The dealer said that diesel foams, so this could have led to the pump shutting off prior to being completely filled. The guy I talked to also said that the fuel sending unit is probably set to show empty when there is still about 6 gallons left in the tank. When I got out today, I also refilled the tank and it took about the same amount of gas that the truck showed I had burned since the fill up on the way home. Is this common? Are there any more Duramax or diesel guys that can clue me in, otherwise I'm taking it to the dealer for them to look into it? I'm tempted to fill a 5 gallon can, and then set out to run it out of gas after it shows empty, and see how long it takes to run out.


My 2008 silverado (its a gasser though) will show the fuel gage flat on E with the dummy light on and take 22.5 gallons on a 26 gallon tank. It has some wiggle room. There is "some" truth to the foaming. With one of our Ford diesel duallys at work, the pump will kick off because of the foaming. If you wait about 20-30 seconds and then start filling again really really slow (as slow as you can go), I can get another 3 - 3.5 gallons in, but the fuel gage shows full whether I add the extra in or not. Try it and see just how much more you can get in. With as far as yours is off though, it sounds like something is wrong with the sender maybe.


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## Bob in Virginia (Jul 15, 2010)

I am pulling a 301BQ with a Silverado 2500 HD diesel with 3.73. No problems with the 3.73, but with the duramax I have a lot more torque than you would have with a gasser. Looking at just the weight, I wouldn't want to try it with a 1500, both from a control and also a braking point. The 3/4 ton truck has much larger brakes plus the engine braking really helps when running down hills. I have 4WD and while I don't have to use it often, it is nice to know that I have it available, in addition to the locking diff.

Just like you have found out, the fuel gauge is really just for reference. It isn't a good idea to run the tank down too far as it will suck crap off of the bottom, which you don't want. I try to fill up when I hit 1/4 tank, which runs around 15-16 gals. I recently didn't get to fill up until it hit E and only took 20 gals, all with a 26 gallon tank. You might look at Dieselplace.com as an excellent resource for info about your truck.


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## rsm7 (Aug 8, 2009)

I had a 2007 gasser GMC and it was the same way. When it showed E I could only pump 21-22 gallons in a 26 gallon tank. GM leaves you a cushion. Now my new F250...no cushion. I ran it close to E and it started sputtering on a small grade in a parking lot. I'm not sure about GM but as a rule you do not want to run a diesel engine out of fuel. As someone already stated there is usually crap on the bottom of the tank. But also, diesels can be difficult to re-prime and may require a service visit. Congrats on the new truck, do we get pics? As for the trailer my pick would be the 301 because the bedroom is bigger and closer to the bathroom. In our 300BH with the front island bed there is very little room to change clothes. The bathroom is all the way to the back and is also small. So when camping with guests or kids you have no where to change and have to walk back and forth from front to back, passing your guests, while trying to shower. Sounds stupid but we would prefer the bath next to our bedroom with enough space to lay out clothes and change. With the 312 you're giving the kids their privacy and closer to the bath while you get what basically amounts to a curtain and no room to stand. If I'm paying the bill I get the privacy, extra space, and closer to the bath while the kids get a curtain LOL. Of course the 312 has an outside kitchen but that means nothing to me as I could care less. We dislike the bedroom/bathroom so much on the 300 that we just bought a new rear kitchen Springdale with a large connected bathroom (its an "empty nester" model LOL) http://keystone-springdale.com/index.php?page=floorplans&coast=east&model=293RKSSR When we bought last time we debated between the 300 and the 301 (the 312 wasnt out yet) and if we would have chose the 301 we probably would not be buying another new one now.


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

On the fueling note. My gassers usually takes about 26-28 to fill it from the time the light comes on. My old diesel truck I ran into the foam issue before. Depends on the station and how fast it pumps. I have owned at least 3 GM vehicles and they all have had fuel gauge issues. I do not reccomend running a diesel out of fuel though. It's very hard on the fuel pumps and injector pumps.

After fueling give it a minute or two to settle and then see if anymore goes in. I had my old truck setup so I could fill with the bigger nozzle that rigs use and it would actually foam out since it went in so fast.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Trying to figure out how to upload pics. Until then, hopefully this link works for seeing the truck.
http://cid-85f7a300b9bd05cb.photos.live.com/self.aspx/RV/IMAG0237.jpg


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

srwsr said:


> OK, drove from St. Louis to LaGrange, KY yesterday. Traded the 05 for an 08 Chevy 2500HD Duramax. 1 step closer & a whole lot more confident. Went by the local RV dealer today & seen the familiar salesman. Showed him the HD to let him know I was serious & hadn't fallen off the path. Waited for him to express how eager he was to deal with me, after they sold 60 units at the show that was here last weekend, and then let him know that I was less than 100 miles from Holman RV when I picked up the truck, and that they are not shy about expressing the fact that they are wholesalers. I told him to check them out so that he could see that he was priced well over what they show as the MSRP (THOUSANDSSSSS), and that I could have it delivered for +/- $600 or spend 2-3 hundred $$$ in DIESEL and go pick it up myself.
> 
> On another note, and I will search to keep this from getting too far off topic, but on the return trip with the new HD, I filled up before leaving Kentucky, and the fuel range showed more than enough to make it home. About 60 miles from home, the fuel gauge was buried past E, and the range had fallen to where it would only say "low fuel". The truck was showing that we had burned about 18 gallons of fuel and were averaging about 15 miles per gallon. Trip odometer said we had driven about 230 miles from last fill up, which was about right. So, if you do the math, there is about a 40 mile or 2.5 gallon difference. I pulled in and filled her up, and she took a little over 17 gallons of fuel, in what's supposed to be a 26 gallon tank. This morning I called the service department at the local dealer to question this and had the VIN ran to check the build sheet to verify actual fuel tank size, which is 26 gallon. The dealer said that diesel foams, so this could have led to the pump shutting off prior to being completely filled. The guy I talked to also said that the fuel sending unit is probably set to show empty when there is still about 6 gallons left in the tank. When I got out today, I also refilled the tank and it took about the same amount of gas that the truck showed I had burned since the fill up on the way home. Is this common? Are there any more Duramax or diesel guys that can clue me in, otherwise I'm taking it to the dealer for them to look into it? I'm tempted to fill a 5 gallon can, and then set out to run it out of gas after it shows empty, and see how long it takes to run out.


On my duramax, I always fill till I can see fuel in the filler neck. That usually means about 2-3 gallons after the nozzle shuts off. When the low fuel light comes on it usually will take about 22 gallons to fill it up, most I've put in it is 24 gallons, so there is at least 2 gallons after the light comes on, more likely about 4. However, if I just filled till the nozzle shuts off, especially if it wasn't set for the slowest setting, I'd bet I'd see the low fuel light at about 18-19 gallons. Oe more thing, the low fuel light can be triggered as you start or stop as you near empty or go up/down a hill. More than once, the low fuel light has come on, and if I shut it down then restart, the light will be off and I've gone another 10-15 miles or so before it came on again.


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Don't want to keep this off topic, but since I got a few of you all's attention, here's the update. Dropped the truck off at the dealer last night, and they fixed it, or at least they say they have, time will tell. They replaced the fuel sending unit, said it was working the gauge, but when compared to a new one, there were some different readings, possibly something shorted in the old one. When I dropped it off, the computer said that I had used 8+ gallons of gas since last fill-up, and could travel another 146 miles. I believe the hand was around 1/2 tank. When I picked it up, it said I could travel about 210 miles and the hand was around 2/3 full. It was covered under the Certified GM warranty, so I have no clue as to the cost of the repair. I will see where the gauge is and what the computer says when I start to get the low fuel warnings.


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## heron (May 13, 2010)

[quote name='srwsr' date='24 January 2011 - 07:56 PM' timestamp='1295917017' post='402493']
Don't want to keep this off topic, but since I got a few of you all's attention, here's the update. Dropped the truck off at the dealer last night, and they fixed it, or at least they say they have, time will tell. They replaced the fuel sending unit, said it was working the gauge, but when compared to a new one, there were some different readings, possibly something shorted in the old one. When I dropped it off, the computer said that I had used 8+ gallons of gas since last fill-up, and could travel another 146 miles. I believe the hand was around 1/2 tank. dWhen I picked it up, it said I could travel about 210 miles an sod the hand was around 2/3 full. It was covered under the Certified GM warranty, so I have no clue as to the cost of the repair. I will see where the gauge is and what the computer says when I start to get the low fuel warnings.he 
ru

[/quoty
he5 
Glad you went with the HD. Half ton from any maker is too small for that TT IMHO.
Go to duramaxforum or dieselplace to learn about your truck. I never let my fuel get low at all. MPG towing my 312 is 12-14 hand calculated. Lots depends on truck and modifications. I've neverneeded 4wd in the 5 years I've had my truck. I don't use the computer. 
Pulls the camper like it's not back there. Have fun!


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Just wanted to update everyone. I'll have to get up to speed on posting pics. Here's my post from another thread:

After a short wait for the slide covers to come in, we took delivery Friday. I went ahead and had the hardwired surge guard added while we waited on the slide covers. Much to my surprise, and quite a welcomed one, ours came with a 24" LCD TV which I wasn't aware was part of the 10th Anniversary package (http://keystone-outb...age=anniversary). Must have been part of the "and more". For the curious, we ended up paying about $1100 more than what Holman quoted, but take into consideration the price to have it delivered or the 6-7 hour each way trip, missed work, fuel and other expenses, I'd say we payed $400-$500 more to buy local. I'm cool with that.

So, the DW and I finish up the business end and head out to the shop where the tech is finishing up the hitch install. He gets done and we go over a few things and out the door they send us. He guides me out of the garage bay and salutes. The DW utters "you nervous", as I approach the parking lot exit. I pause (NERVOUS AS HELL, this is literally a virgin experience......never pulled anything but my 5x8 utility trailer. Let's not even talk about backing that little thing.), and respond "No, just considering my route......" and off we went. HOLY MOTHER OF JESUS, this thing is BEHEMOTH!!!!! Thank goodness for this forum. There is no way imagineable that I can see the 05 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab that I had, hooking up to this BEAST. Every move was indeed calculated on the less than 5 mile trek home. I was immediately a believer in the Duramax rig. As I approach the subdivision, I'm debating which of the 2 entrances to take (which direction to approach my driveway from). When I arrive at home, my truck driver buddy (backing coach) hasn't arrived so I just pull over in front of the house, DW has already bailed to retrieve the 2 boys from neighbor (I actually ended up having to call her later to get here to return). In no time at all, my other neighbor (who has been entertained by me with the 5x8 utility trailer, on several occaisions) shows up with a sheepish grin. We chat for a few, and he helps me get in the driveway. Did I mention that my driveway is sloped? Let me first thank all of you, because I can't imagine this not being disastrous otherwise. Turns out the 3500 lb. Barker, Lynx levelers, and BAL X-Chocks were the right prescription, I think I'll be get a 2nd set of the Lynx's. Without traumatizing any of you with the exact proceedings, let's just say that I now KNOW to get the trailer leveled then chocked, and re-support the cams with the hanger plate and chains to hold them up and out of the way after removing the bars. I didn't have any trouble getting the tension off of the bars, even with the truck not being straight in line with the trailer. Luckily DW didn't witness any of this (was still at neighbors retrieving boys, hadn't given her the all clear yet). Looking back, I know what I did wrong and the experience should be good enough reminder for me to never make the same mistakes. It actually has made me totally confident (not to be confused with foolishly over confident) in the hitching/unhitching process. I'll be going out getting some practice in the driving seat with my truck driver friend, so I'll be getting more practice hitching and unhitching as well as backing. After the whole fiasco I called for the DW and kids. A couple of friends and family had showed up by now, a few pizzas and beers were put away and we called it a night. The only mishap was the glass for the light over the dinette table......the dealer is getting us a new one. I definitely will have to upgrade the mirrors on the TV. I've been debating between some CIPAs http://www.etrailer....sion-10501.aspx, K-Source http://www.ksource.org/Towing2.htm, and the far more expensive OEM ones. Anyone with input on the CIPAs or K-Source?

Saturday was pretty much "move in" day. Thanks to all of you, I'm pretty sure that we are pretty well set up. Trip after trip with bag upon bag, from the house to the trailer would sum it up. When I think about it, all the dealer gave us was the el cheapo sewer hose and a regulator. Thought it should've been more than that.......will look into.

Hopefully, it won't offend anyone that I'm going to repost this in another thread or two that I've posted replies in, as a courtesy update.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Glad to hear it all went relatively well. It will get a lot easier to tow once you get used to it. Any lesson you learn that doesn't cost too much money and doesn't hurt anyone is ok in my mind!


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## Kevin K (Jan 31, 2011)

I use the CIPA mirrors on my GMC Duramax. They hold well and don't vibrate to bad. We just picked up our new 312 yesterday. It is big. My old trailer was a 26' It must have been a short 26 and this a long 31' The truck handled it like a champ but it was only 5 miles from the dealer home. As srwsr wrote, it took a few tries to get it just right in the drive. I bet we will both be "experts" by the end of the summer.

There was lots to do today. Noticed the black water rinse on the curb side of the trailer. That is an odd place to put it. Also, there are two dump pipes. The 10' drain the dealer gave me won't cut it. Oh well, I'll eventually get it just the way I want it.

Should be a great summer. Happy camping!


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## LaydBack (Aug 22, 2010)

Kevin K said:


> I use the CIPA mirrors on my GMC Duramax. They hold well and don't vibrate to bad. We just picked up our new 312 yesterday. It is big. My old trailer was a 26' It must have been a short 26 and this a long 31' The truck handled it like a champ but it was only 5 miles from the dealer home. As srwsr wrote, it took a few tries to get it just right in the drive. I bet we will both be "experts" by the end of the summer.
> 
> There was lots to do today. Noticed the black water rinse on the curb side of the trailer. That is an odd place to put it. Also, there are two dump pipes. The 10' drain the dealer gave me won't cut it. Oh well, I'll eventually get it just the way I want it.
> 
> Should be a great summer. Happy camping!


Thanks for the input.....was pretty much sold on the CIPAs until I saw this 



. Now, debating again. I did get out on the road with it today with my trucker friend, and did well, but definitely plan to purchase something ASAP.


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

congrats on the new truck and trailer. glad it is all coming together.


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