# Add Shocks To Your Outback



## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

To all,
After reading the axle flip / roo riser thread .... I remembered that Monroe makes shock kits for trailers. These seemed to be a better thought out system than the Dexter or Al-Ko kits. I will be adding to my future Outback because we travel alot of dirt / gravel roads on our camping trips.

Monroe Shock Kits Page

Happy trails!

Map Guy


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## shake1969 (Sep 21, 2004)

This looks very interesting.

Nice find.


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Wonder if that would help with the "jiggling" when you walk in the OB!!







If so, sure could have used it at Topsail, last year, when "cuz" was doing her restless leg syndrome thing on the 27RSDS rear slide!!








Darlene


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

I can't tell from the information on the page from your link, but if mounting the shocks requires drilling through the frame, I'd be a little skittish. It looks like there is a shock for each wheel, so that would be two holes drilled through both sides of either frame rail. The frame would be weakened at each shock mounting and the trailer weight would then be somewhat transferred to the mounting hole.

Do you have access to installation instructions or photos? Have you seen these on a trailer?

It's a good idea, though!

Mike


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## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

Scoutr2 said:


> I can't tell from the information on the page from your link, but if mounting the shocks requires drilling through the frame, I'd be a little skittish. It looks like there is a shock for each wheel, so that would be two holes drilled through both sides of either frame rail. The frame would be weakened at each shock mounting and the trailer weight would then be somewhat transferred to the mounting hole.
> 
> Do you have access to installation instructions or photos? Have you seen these on a trailer?
> 
> ...


Mike, 
Found installation PDF files at these links:

Page 1 

Page 2

Understand your concern about drilling through frame... I am not an metallurgist or engineer but IMHO drilling two 1/2" holes in the frame per side shouldn't be a big deal especially if deburred properly. The Dexter and Al-Ko shock kits pretty much require you weld to the frame for installation and then use a real wimpy/small shock. If concerned about drilling the upper shock mount could be welded intead of bolted though...

The real plus to the Monroe setup is easier install and a real shock that doesn't hang down from the lower mount point very much.

Just trying to get the info out to people on their options for shocks.

Edit- The shocks if installed properly don't hold the trailer up - the leaf springs still carry the load as before.

Marc


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## jnlswain (Apr 7, 2006)

Marc, looks intriguing. Do you have any idea of the cost?

John


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

interesting
Nice link









Don


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## rms0726ea (Aug 9, 2006)

*I'de like to consider this mod. Wonder how much of a difference it makes while towing. Anyone here do any shock mods before? Sounds like a good thing*


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## N7OQ (Jun 10, 2006)

I wondered way it didn't have shocks in the first place, I will have to look into doing this mod.


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## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

jnlswain said:


> Marc, looks intriguing. Do you have any idea of the cost?
> 
> John


John,
Check this link for an online source. There are other sources on the 'net too!

Shock Warehouse

Marc


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## Northern Wind (Nov 21, 2006)

This is a mod that I will add this year for sure. My last rig had shocks and it took the bounce out of the unit on rough roads and certainly the side to side rocking on a curvy road. I spoke with a mechanic about drilling the holes and he said as long as you filled them with a sleeve and bolt that you do not jeopardize the structural integrity.
I watched an episode of I think it was RV TV and they did a slalom course with a fiver and the wheels actually came off the ground they felt this would be prevented or at least decreased with the addition of shocks.
Steve


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## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

From my past truck/heavy equipment repair experience - I would keep the holes drilled in the lower or upper 1/3 of the frame web. Stay out of the middle 1/3 if possible. Make sure you deburr (stress relieve) both entrance and exit points of each hole drilled. Deburring minimizes the risk of a stress fracture forming from the drilled hole.

Map Guy


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## jeff28rsds (Jul 16, 2005)

As for the frame drilling concerns, what about a 1/8 plate or two top & bottom to sandwich it all tghr. Looking forward to it as well. We'll need pics when done. Boy I cannot wait to get my baby outta jail.


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## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

You don't have to wory about the holes. The web on a beam is plays a very minor role in the atrength of the beam. A beams strenght is more a factor of how far apart the top and bottom flanges are. If it really bothers you, between the spring perches put the holes above center and make them a snug fit on the bolt. The bolt material will fill the hole and be in compression same as web would have been.
I had to take a strength of materials class for my apprenticeship and it almost fried my brain at the time, but I did learn a lot.
That sounds like a great mod. Thanks for posting it.
Bob


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