# Blew Out The City Water Check Valve



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

While working on sanitizing my fresh water system, I tried to backflush the city water line by pushing the little button behind the inlet screen while the pump was running (that may have been the problem







). Now I need to replace it, and quick. I know this topic has been on here before, but any advice would be much appreciated.

Do I need to replace the entire water connection panel on the outside?

Just the city hose fitting itself?

What is involved in doing whatever need to be done?

In other words, any words of wisdom that will allow me to fix this with maximum efficency would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance, and...

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Doug talk to Steve(huntr70) 
I believe he had to work on his too
I think he had to just take it apart and then put the check valve back in place
I think!!!!

Don


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

I would take it apart and try to refigure it.

You can use the pump in the meantime by putting a hose plug in the city water connection and just use the water tank.

good luck


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

I believe Mike(camping479) had the same problem. You might be able to take it apart and fix it.

You should be able to get just the valve if you do need to replace it thought, or at least just the "city water" side of the of the page.

Good luck.

Tim


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Happened to me, twice, but let's not go there









If you remove the panel from the trailer you can work on it. If I remember right, remove the screen from the outside and press the plastic pin out the back with a screwdriver, it will pop out, there is an "O" ring behind it that gets knocked out of it's seat, just reseat it, re-assemble and you'll be back in business.

Mike


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## OutbackPM (Sep 14, 2005)

camping479 said:


> Happened to me, twice, but let's not go there
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 Last year when I was winterizing I did the same thing and followed camping 479 instruction that he left in a thread (I keep a hard copy in my trailer file) and it is not that difficult to do. Removing and reasealing the plastic holder that has the city and tank filler is the longest part of the job.

Good luck

Edit, I found what I used fromcamping 479

Here's how you do it;

Remove the outside water inlet panel that has the water connection etc. on it. Mine has enough slack in the lines that I could get it out enough to get the hose clamps off. Try and save the sticky tape around the perimeter of the panel, it helps keep the water out.

Next remove the screen on the city water inlet and unscrew the plastic fitting on the back of the brass valve itself.

Behind the screen is a little plastic pin with a retaining ring and a spring behind it. Set the whole thing down and press down on the plastic pin so the plastic retainer pops off, save the retainer and spring. Now you can remove the pin from the back. It looks kind of like a golf tee, the o-ring will probably still be inside the valve, remove it and it will slip back over the widest part of the pin in the little groove. It doesn't seat on there very tight.

That o-ring is the part that gets knocked loose when there is pressure from the trailer side of the valve. It's meant to only have pressure from the street side of the valve. Re-assembly is the same as taking it apart, insert the plastic pin part making sure the ring stays put and then put the spring back in the other side and snap the retainer back on.

Then hook up the plumbing, re-install the panel and caulk around it with silicone.

It's not very complicated, just keep track of the parts and how you take it apart.

Regarding the low point drains, you open them to drain most of the water out of the system before pumping in the antifreeze.

Wolfwood,

The rv antifreeze is supposed to be non toxic but I still wouldn't let the dogs get at it. I rinse it away with the garden hose.

Mike


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Thanks a million, you guys!








What would we do without this place?

I will tear that bad boy apart as soon as I get home tonight.

A related question... I know that people have successfully used the 'button' in the check valve to back flush that line. What is the trick? Pump turned off? Most of the pressure released from the system?









Thanks again!

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

I tried that with most of the pressure off and it came apart on me. It should work if you release all of the pressure out of the system.

Mike


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Awesome info.

Thanks. I know I would have done the same thing.

Thor


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

Ha! Same thing happened to me while at the conference last week. Turned on the pump and water started spewing out the city connection -- check valve was inop. Solution -- went to local hardware store, bought a 50 cent plug and screwed it in. Problem solved. Since the check valves seem to be problematic, I'll probably keep my plug as a permanent solution.


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## Hokie (Jul 10, 2006)

Doug,

You have already gotten alot of advice, but I thought I would add this. I had the same problem on my previous trailer and wrote up this procedure to help people out on a previous group. I know it is not the same, but the insides should be very similar. I hope it helps.

City Water CheckValve Repair

Good Luck! -Sam


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Thanks Sam!








The pictures really help to understand how this thing works! Priceless!

vdub,
Not a bad idea having an emergency backup.









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

Doug, if you do replace it..... The whole unit, i.e., fresh and city, unit has to come off. It's about 6x4 inches and has about 8 screws holding it on. I have had mine off once. When I put it back on, I DID NOT use silicon to reseal it. Figuring I would have it off many times, I opted for plumbers putty instead. The seal is just as good and it's a whole lot easier to get off the next time.


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Hokie said:


> Doug,
> 
> You have already gotten alot of advice, but I thought I would add this. I had the same problem on my previous trailer and wrote up this procedure to help people out on a previous group. I know it is not the same, but the insides should be very similar. I hope it helps.
> 
> ...


Nice information there Sam








Will come in handy

Don


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## nascarcamper (Jan 27, 2005)

I had it happen too and all I did was remove the hose from the inside of the tt and everything came right out the back. Put the o-ring back on and was back in business in less than 5 minutes.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Well, I got the panel off this evening, and 'rebuilt' the check valve. What a breeze!
While it is off, I removed the line from the city water connection to the 'T', and submerged it in a chlorine bleach/water solution for four hours (I'm thinking it's pretty clean now!)

In the AM, I will put it all back together. vdub, I agree, plumbers putty is what I plan to use as well.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Doug

I am glad you got your system repaired.

Thor


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

I found out about this check valve during one of my first winterizations.
It has been the subject of a few threads in the past.
Glad you got it fixed...and the thread will help others to come.


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Doug glad to hear you got it apart and fixed up
Now you are set to go









Don


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