# Macerator Wiring How To Connect To Battery Flojet



## daveo (Mar 23, 2008)

I recently purchased a flojet macerator pump. The pump switch has a fuse so i do not think i need to wire another, but i do need to connect to a 12v source. Near the outback21rs batteries <outside front> there is a box on the frame which state Battery hookup - (+) black (-) white and on the cover is the words bargman. Inside of that box there are about 6 or 8 screws (perhaps terminals). two of these are white and black respectively, the others are colored. I can only guess that I can indeed use this for connecting the macerator and i simply buy a round terminal connector, crimp that on the wire, slip it on the (red to black, black to white) terminals? Is this the best place to hook this up?


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

For my poop-pump, I just spliced on a 15' run of 10AWG dual conductor cable with alligator clamps on the end. When I use the pump, I just clamp it directly onto the battery. The ON/OFF switch is simply clamp it on (ON), or remove it (OFF). Works just fine that way.

Bob


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

use a $5 multi meter to test and make sure it's right power. For my pump, I just use my jump box that I carry around in the truck. That way no wires to corrode or accidentally fray and short. Just clamp on the jumper cables when you want to empty and turn the switch on. Works great, and allows me to easily switch between my front and rear tanks, and to share with friends if I need too.


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## Chuggs (Jun 8, 2010)

I think you found the trailer light wiring box...

Here's the way I wired my Flojet. I really like it!!

First, I found an open FUSE location in my WFCO distribution panel. Looking at the sticker on the panel...locations 1-9 were good for up to 20amps. Location 10 & 11 are good to 30amps... So this is where my pump will get it's power.










Then I went to West Marine..and got some 10-2 marine grade wire...and to Lowe's for a weather proof box and a 125v-30a plug & receptacle. I mounted this on the RV frame right next to the dump handles.










So, there you have it. A fused 12vdc outlet right where you need it... Just wire your Flojet Kit to the 125v30amp plug...(correct polarity is important)...and you're in business.










Hope this gives you an idea that will work out for you...


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## daveo (Mar 23, 2008)

How did you get those wires down through the belley?

Als, to mount the 12v receptricol, did you drill holes in the frame?

dave


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

* Chuggs - that looks pretty awesome, although I think I would hit up a truck supply place or marine place and get a regular 12v outlet for that so that someone doesn't accidentally plug it into a regular 110 outlet. *
I always think, what if I die and my wife has to do this alone, or what if I ask my kids to help, or a sell the thing. I want it slightly idiot proof.


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## Chuggs (Jun 8, 2010)

The Lippert frame on my Outback already had a hole in it. I'm thinking it's in case you have two grey tanks and a black tank. Mine wasn't using the third hole. I did drill two pilot holes for self tapping screws to fasten down the box.

I used a plastic snake and a fiberglass pole snake in combination to run the wire. Picked those up at Harbor Freight.

The outlet is a 30amp variety. One of the blades is turned sideways. I'll eventually paint 12VDC over it so there's no question. Unless you lie on the ground...you wouldn't even know it was there. I was looking at some of the Marine type and even thought about ordering Mini-lock type outlet NEMA ML-2 but they're only rated for 15A...which is what Boeing puts on some panels for 28v test equipement to plug into. But figured --- This is easier /// cheaper /// and it's rated for the full 30 amps that my 10-2 wire is good for.

I didn't really see anything that I liked at the Marine store. They either had trolling motor plugs, or cigarette lighter receptacles. None would adapt to a weatherproof electrical box. It was bad enough paying for the Marine grade wire...but it's the only stuff I could find easily that had insulation rated for 105 degrees c. Which is what the WFCO panel specifies for the DC circuits.

If you go to an actual Electrical Supply House...you can get them to order a NEMA L6-30 or something like that. It would be too different to plug in a regular 110v appliance into.

NOTE: There are two varieties of 30amp plug/receptacles. One for 120v and one for 240v. The horizontal blade is different side for each...so you can't actually plug a 120v appliance into the 240v outlet and vice versa... So, if you decide to use these...make sure the plug you buy for the flojet and the receptacle you buy for the RV are compatible with each other. I took them out of the package and hooked them together to make sure before checking out...


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

If there was a "Like" button like there is on Facebook. I would click it. I have a ton of those plugs laying around from a computer job I did a while back. Good call. I like it.


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## daveo (Mar 23, 2008)

I ended up simply adding alligator clips to the flojet wires and clipping to the battery. Works great. Wires fell off a few times, I need better clips but got the job done.

I also bought a 1" hose from factorydirect hoses online. 99 bucks for 75 feet of 1". Empties the tank in about 1 minute!


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