# Satellite Install Instructions



## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

This is how I installed a satellite system and bypassed the antenna booster on our Outback 26rs.

Tools required
Standard socket set
Standard wrenches
Drill and bits from 1/16 to 3/8
Screwdrivers Phillips and regular
Side cutters
Coax cable stripper not necessary but very handy
Coax cable crimper not necessary but very handy
Small hand saw, keyhole type
Your favorite beverage, youâ€™re going to be in the trailer for a few hours.

Parts I used for the install
10 standard type F coax connectors
3 female to female F connectors
Approximately 100â€™ of coax cable
Satellite splitter

I started out by making a 70â€™ cable to attach to the satellite; you never know where there will be a tree or something blocking your southern view so I wanted to have plenty of cable to move the satellite. I then setup the tv and satellite receiver in the door so it was easier for me to tone out the dish for the first time.









Once everything worked I unplugged the wire from the receiver and plugged it into the trailers cable input. Next is to remove the main cable face plate from the ceiling, 2 screws like a standard wall plate. There is plenty of slack in the lines at this end.









I marked all 3 cable wires Left Middle and Right and removed them from the plate/amplifier. On the back of the plate it is labeled what is what, Left was labeled 2nd room, middle was labeled cable in, right was labeled antenna in. We want the middle wire or the cable feed coming from outside. I had setup my tv and sat receiver and made a jumper wire to connect to the main cable in to the receiver just to test the connections. Save yourself some time and just redo all the twist on connectors now they were all very loose. The connector on the outside had worked itself loose and wasnâ€™t making any connection and I wasnâ€™t getting any signal in the trailer so off comes the plate and this is what I found.








The screw on connector literally fell to the ground as I removed the plate. There was no slack at this end, cleaned up the wire and screwed the connector back on. A quick test to make sure everything works








and the plate is reinstalled. I need to re caulk the plate.









Back inside I wanted to share the sat with the bunkhouse and wanted to test the cables so I used a female connector and plugged the main cable in to the bunkhouse out.









Next itâ€™s time to start drilling for the new receptacles on the plate, in my setup I needed 3 new receptacles. I started drilling with a 1/16â€ bit and gradually ended up with a 3/8â€ hole.








Finished









Here are the pictures of everything wired up.


















The jumper wire looks short but itâ€™s really 8â€. So to summarize those last 2 pictures and why we have to do this, you can not use the amplified signal for your satellite even though you havenâ€™t turned on the antenna something about cable running at a lower frequency, Iâ€™m no expert but the existing wiring didnâ€™t work. So I moved the existing cable in wire to the faceplate, that is whatâ€™s going to the receiver. The jumper connects on the back of the faceplate back to the original cable in slot middle. If I ever want to use the antenna I simply use a short jumper from the new sat in to jumper and everything is back to stock and you would use the existing white coax connector to your tv. The bunkhouse was disconnected from the amplifier entirely; it will not work with the antenna, and placed on the faceplate so I could run a second feed from the receiver to control the bunkhouse tv, both tvâ€™s are watching the same channel.


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

Here you can see the splitter on the back of the sat receiver. Make sure you get a satellite splitter, not a standard UHF VHF FM splitter.









With everything tested and working itâ€™s time to reattach the faceplate. I had to make the hole larger to accommodate the new cables but the ceiling material was very easy to cut.









The 2 wires are sat in bunkhouse out.

Done for today, I still need to mount the receiver and hope for a LCD but thatâ€™s the install. Total time of about 3.5 hours with a run to Radio Shack.


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Totally cool ...

The 23RS should be even simplier since I only use one jack ....

thx for your great explanation ...

I will give this a shot in a couple of weeks after some business trips ...


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## SoCalOutback (Dec 18, 2005)

2500Ram,

Fantastic Job!

If you want to use the antenna signal on the same coax as the satellite you can use what is called a diplexer. You can get them at radio shack but I prefer this brand.

http://sonorastore.com/460.html

You would use one to combine the satellite input with the antenna input(post amp). You then use one at each of the receivers to split the sat signal to the receiver and the antenna signal to the TV.



2500Ram said:


> Here you can see the splitter on the back of the sat receiver. Make sure you get a satellite splitter, not a standard UHF VHF FM splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

2500Ram

Outstanding Job!!!!!! 3.5hrs to mod the Outback another 3.5hrs to explain it to Outbackers.com.







Your pics and directions are awesome.









Thor


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## pjb2cool (Apr 8, 2004)

Wow, what an awesome explaination-pics are incredible. I feel like I can do this mod-and we don't even have satellite!!! Great jod...


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

I feel sorry for the dial up guys...but WOW!! Great work and awesome job documenting all the steps for us.


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## Kyoutbacker (Apr 26, 2006)

I did it a little differently (easier). My cable from the outside connector was white and on the center connector on the circuit board. My cable to set 2 (in the back area of outback) was black in color and on right side of circuit board (they are labled on the inside cover). I disconected the white cable and the black cable from circuit board and connected both together and placed up into ceiling. This connects the outside cable input connection to my back set and allows me to use the outside connector to hook up the my sat receiver (or catv).
The input from the roof antenna (grey) I left on the connector it was currently connected to on the circuit board. I then reattached the unit to ceiling. This allows me to use the "set 1" cable connector on the front shelf to still use the amplified outside roof antenna system (which we rarely use in our area due to the mountains).
No fuss, no mess, no drilling, no extra parts except a male/male F connector. 30 minute mod done.
A side note - gilligan was working here on cable connections, None of the f connections were screwed onto cable.


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## fredykes (Jun 24, 2006)

Kyoutbacker said:


> I did it a little differently (easier). My cable from the outside connector was white and on the center connector on the circuit board. My cable to set 2 (in the back area of outback) was black in color and on right side of circuit board (they are labled on the inside cover). I disconected the white cable and the black cable from circuit board and connected both together and placed up into ceiling. This connects the outside cable input connection to my back set and allows me to use the outside connector to hook up the my sat receiver (or catv).
> The input from the roof antenna (grey) I left on the connector it was currently connected to on the circuit board. I then reattached the unit to ceiling. This allows me to use the "set 1" cable connector on the front shelf to still use the amplified outside roof antenna system (which we rarely use in our area due to the mountains).
> No fuss, no mess, no drilling, no extra parts except a male/male F connector. 30 minute mod done.
> A side note - gilligan was working here on cable connections, None of the f connections were screwed onto cable.


Thanks for your detailed response,

Fredykes


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