# Entry Doors Binding



## Bearhog (Feb 10, 2011)

Morning All. I did all the searches I could think of and could not find exactly what I was looking for.

I have a '11 250RS purchased new from the dealer less than four months ago. During the PDI, we noted issues with the entry doors striking/binding the frames upon opening and closing. Under warranty, the doors and frames were replaced which did not do a whole lot to solve the problem. I've since had the unit back in a second time for adjustment of the doors. This helped a little more but did not solve the problem completely. The most consistent issue is with the front entry door on the top left side of the frame. The odd thing is, I can remove the gas cylinder that opens and holds the door and the issue/binding goes away. The rear is just hard to open and close. You have to slam the door reasonably hard to close it and give it a little push inward to get it to unlatch.

All that said anyone out there with this same issue? I still have plenty of time to get it repaired under warranty and the issue is well documented with the dealer, I'm just tired of my unit sitting in the repair lot rather than a camp site

Thanks for any advice

Ernie


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Try adding a little white grease to the latch. I've do this 1-2 times per year and it REALLY helps.


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## clarkely (Sep 15, 2008)

Bearhog said:


> Morning All. I did all the searches I could think of and could not find exactly what I was looking for.
> 
> I have a '11 250RS purchased new from the dealer less than four months ago. During the PDI, we noted issues with the entry doors striking/binding the frames upon opening and closing. Under warranty, the doors and frames were replaced which did not do a whole lot to solve the problem. I've since had the unit back in a second time for adjustment of the doors. This helped a little more but did not solve the problem completely. The most consistent issue is with the front entry door on the top left side of the frame. The odd thing is, I can remove the gas cylinder that opens and holds the door and the issue/binding goes away. The rear is just hard to open and close. You have to slam the door reasonably hard to close it and give it a little push inward to get it to unlatch.
> 
> ...


Angle of gas closer may be forcing teh door to bind if closer is up it is always pulling the door up........ and always putting an extending pressure on the hinges


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## Bearhog (Feb 10, 2011)

You are right on the money about the pressure from the gas cylinder. I have taken it off and it seemed to relieve the binding to almost nothing. I'm contemplating leaving the cylinder off and installing a door stop. The only type of stop/holder I found that would seem to work is a "right angle" model. The door has to be held at almost a perfect 90 degrees from the camper wall due to the proximity to the awning arm.


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

I think that the gas closers have been causing issues on a few trailers, not just Outbacks. If it is not perfectly installed it will cause all kinds of issues. I contemplated doing it to mine, but I opted to install a series of springs on the doors so that they close on their own.


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## GlenninTexas (Aug 11, 2004)

My first thought was you have been cranking the stablizer foot down too hard and torquing the frame, but I imagine that would be the first thing the dealer would think of. Sounds like perhaps your undercarriage frame is warped since you have trouble with both doors.

Good luck, Glenn


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Try adding a little white grease to the latch. I've do this 1-2 times per year and it REALLY helps.


x2!. if the latch isn't greased, you'll think the door is binding but in reality, the friction between the latch and striker is high enough to make you need to pull to get the door to close. Just a dab of grease will make a huge improvement. I usually put a very light dab of grease on mine when we are loading up the trailer.


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## Bearhog (Feb 10, 2011)

KTMRacer said:


> Try adding a little white grease to the latch. I've do this 1-2 times per year and it REALLY helps.


x2!. if the latch isn't greased, you'll think the door is binding but in reality, the friction between the latch and striker is high enough to make you need to pull to get the door to close. Just a dab of grease will make a huge improvement. I usually put a very light dab of grease on mine when we are loading up the trailer.
[/quote]
Will absolutly add the grease. However, my door is striking the frame before it even begins to engage the latch. I guess I'm going back to the dealer, again.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Can you post a couple of pictures of the door closer/opener. Can you read what pressure (load rating) is on the cylinder?


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

My screen doors on our 250RS rubbed the frame when we got the trailer. The outer doors were fine. If it's just the screen door portion, they have a couple inches of projection on the hinges. It was quite easy to bend them a little in the right direction, to get the necessary clearance.

I just took a quick look at our trailer, and the outer doors have minimum 1/4" clearance on all sides. If your outer doors are rubbing, I think you're looking at a trip to the dealer.


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## Jim P (Nov 10, 2009)

I noticed last weekend that the bracket for my gas shock was coming away from where it was mounted to the trailer body. I wish I had taken pictures of the poor installation before I fixed it. The two screws on the top part of the bracket were stripped and coming out of the body, the third screw was put in at a 45 degree angle and rusting real bad. I don't think the repair is going to last, too much pressure from the shock. I also noticed that one of the screws on the door frame was broken, and you could still see what was left of the screw in the hole attached to the body.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

I think I'm becoming more convinced that one of my first mods on our new 301BQ will be to disconnect the gas strut from the door and throw it in the trash.


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## Bearhog (Feb 10, 2011)

I may try and get some pix tonight. That is if we don't have more thunderstorms in GA!

Outback Loft was correct on the alignment. I just remembered that before the first adjustment and door replacement, the gas cylinder had actually rubbed a groove in the top of the entry door.

I think I've decided on dumping the cylinder and going back to the traditional method


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Insomniak said:


> I think I'm becoming more convinced that one of my first mods on our new 301BQ will be to disconnect the gas strut from the door and throw it in the trash.


I'd hold off on that...ours works great! Never had any issues and it is awesome walking up to the Outback with a beer in one hand...open the latch with other hand and the door opens for you. Also great for when you are loading the trailer at home. I wish I had one on the back door.

....then again, if you remove yours, you can send it to me.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

Our gas shock works great now, but first I had to remount it. Gilligan had broken one screw off, then moved over and tried again. The shock was rubbing on the top of the door. Rather than move the bracket again, I took it off and bent it a little, until it cleared the door. I also removed the broken screw and filled both unused holes with silicone.


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

Bearhog said:


> Morning All. I did all the searches I could think of and could not find exactly what I was looking for.
> 
> I have a '11 250RS purchased new from the dealer less than four months ago. During the PDI, we noted issues with the entry doors striking/binding the frames upon opening and closing. Under warranty, the doors and frames were replaced which did not do a whole lot to solve the problem. I've since had the unit back in a second time for adjustment of the doors. This helped a little more but did not solve the problem completely. The most consistent issue is with the front entry door on the top left side of the frame. The odd thing is, I can remove the gas cylinder that opens and holds the door and the issue/binding goes away. The rear is just hard to open and close. You have to slam the door reasonably hard to close it and give it a little push inward to get it to unlatch.
> 
> ...


I didn't read all the replies, so this may have been answered. I had the same problem. I replaced the gas strut with a new one and the problem went away. The old one was hyper extended or something like that. Its working fine now, but before I replaced it hit so hard you could barely close it.

I tried using it without, but the door would fly back against the awning and stress the hinges. The back door doesn't have that issue since it can go flat against the trailer.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Oregon_Camper said:


> I think I'm becoming more convinced that one of my first mods on our new 301BQ will be to disconnect the gas strut from the door and throw it in the trash.


I'd hold off on that...ours works great! Never had any issues and it is awesome walking up to the Outback with a beer in one hand...open the latch with other hand and the door opens for you. Also great for when you are loading the trailer at home. I wish I had one on the back door.

....then again, if you remove yours, you can send it to me.








[/quote]
Ok, this is serious now - I hadn't considered the implications these struts may have on the possible spillage of frosty adult beverages


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