# Anode Rod For The Atwood Water Heater



## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

I see these Anode rods to absorb the hard water and extend the life of the water heater. So i assume you pull out the plastic plug and screw in the anode rod and your done? I saw at camping world they have them with the drain built in but their reviews so they were junk. Mine is the Atwood type. Are these worth buying and how long do they last? IF they are so wonderful why not put them in at the factory, i guess that would make too much sense. Thanks.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Not needed for the Aluminum hot water tank. The anode has to be of a less noble metal and you would need to get a magnesium rod so if you get one make sure it is for an aluminum tank and not a steel tank.


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

I see. My TT is an 07 so its aluminimum not steel. Need a Mag type of rod. I assume older ones were steel?


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

I have an '04, and it has an Aluminum tank. I think all the Outbacks use an Aluminum tank.

Tim


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

Other manufacturers use other brands of water heaters that have steel tanks.

My last TT had the anode rod.

Steve


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

Mine is an '05, and there is no anode rod.
My old faithful Coleman pop-up had one though. Used to replace it at least every other year.

Bob


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Are they really required? If you get hard water scaling, can you not just flush some CLR thru it?

Thor


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

Atwood says they aren't needed. But I don't think there would be any harm in putting a magnesium rod in there just in case. As for CLR, I don't know if it is safe on aluminum, which is what the tank is lined with.

Bob


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Water Heater Data from the Library

The Atwood water heater tank is constructed of a core of high strength aluminum. The interior of the tank consists of a 15% thickness of type 7072 aluminum (pure aluminum and zinc) that is fused to the core during the rolling process. This material protects the tank from the affects of heavy metals and salts found in waters throughout the country. It is anodic to these heavy metals and acts much like an anode in a steel glass lined tank except it will last much longer.

There is also no need to replace an anode on a yearly basis.

The aluminum tank is the anode and the metals in the water serve as the cathode. Consequently, the aluminum gradually sacrifices itself and aluminum particles are carried away with the water flow.

A white scaly material (aluminum oxide) often is formed around the points where the heaviest action is taking place and heat accelerates the process. Severity of the problem varies considerably in different locales depending on the metal and mineral content of the water. White deposits inside the water heater tank are usually from water impurities that have settled out.

Periodic flushing of the water heater tank under pressure is recommended to slow down this process.

Hydrogen sulfide can result when the protective cladding on the interior of the tank is doing itsâ€™ job by preventing corrosion and therefore premature tank failure. The electro galvanic action of the cladding material releases hydrogen from the water. If sulfur or any of itsâ€™ combinations are present in the water the two will combine and produce hydrogen sulfide. This compound produces the â€œrotten egg odorâ€. Hydrogen sulfide can also be present in your fresh water supply. It is the product of the decay of animal matter and as little as one mg/liter can cause a perceptible odor. Smell the water before starting the flushing procedure. If your fresh water has the rotten egg odor, you will need to find another source of fresh water before flushing and refilling the entire water storage system.


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Thanks for the tech breakdown. I guess i dont need one but i will be picking up some extra plastic plugs just in case. Thanks


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