# Quickie Flush: 1, Me: 0



## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Well, after what sounded like a straightforward modification, it has turned into a frustrating dilemma. I am attempting to install the Quickie Flush on our 2004 28BHS. I laid out all of the contents of the QF package, got out all of the tools that I thought I would need for the job, removed the rear jacks, and popped off the belly cover. Just like all of the other pictures that I have seen, my belly cover was littered with all kinds of construction debris, so that was not a shocker. What was however, was when I grabbed for my angle drill to punch a hole into the side of the black tank, the drill wouldnâ€™t fit into the space between the tank and the frame rail. I only have approx 4 inches between the frame and the tank. I looked at the other side and that has only about 2 inches. The front and rear of the tank have rails that go across from side to side which look like they provide a hanging point for the tank. My question is, how do I drill a hole into the side of the tank to install the QF. I have seen where one of our fellow members cut an access hatch into the belly cover and installed his QF to the front of the tank. As I cant mount the QF on the back of the tank as it should be, I at least want it on the side. I will keep the hatch / front of the tank idea in mind as a last resort however. Any suggestions?

Chris


----------



## campmg (Dec 24, 2005)

Why don't trailers come with these installed? Seems like a cheap item to add that would bring a lot of good will and easier to do when it's being constructed.


----------



## BlueWedge (Sep 11, 2005)

I think others have cut a hole/square in the support to allow drilling a hole. Afterwards they have patched/reenforced the cut in the support rail. ( there are photos in the gallery of this ) Others have moved the flusher to either end. Seems every model is different as far as access to the tanks.

They really do need to be installed from the factory or at least there should be an access hole in the supports so they could be installed without pulling a Gilligan.


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Installed mine in the back of the tank and drilled small hole through metal support for the piping.

good luck


----------



## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

keeper18 said:


> Many people have cut a hole in the crossmember with a holesaw to access the tank for a quickie flush, myself included.
> 
> Randy


Are you refering to the rear crossmember? Something like a 2 or 2 1/2 inch hole saw? Did you reenforce the crossmember after you were done?


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

I used a dremel tool with a flexible shaft drive, and a cutting bit. It took a while, and it wasn't pretty, but it worked, and then mounted the drill bit in the same drive shaft to drill the holes.

As far as driving the screws, I just took my time with a short handle screw driver.

Of course this year, I went and drilled an access hole to pass the hose through in the frame rail, and thought to myself, "self, if I'd done that last year when I installed this thing, it would have been a lot easier." That being said, I would go that route.

Tim


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Chris,

As the others have said, you may need to cut/drill through a cross member to gain access to the side of the tank. I would not do this in the main front to rear frame members as it will void your warranty, but if you cut through the web (vertical portion) of a cross member, and not the flange (horizontal portion) you should be fine from a structural aspect. In any case, be sure to paint any exposed surfaces with a good rust inhibiting paint after cutting.

Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Thanks for all of the qiuck feedback. I am going to go back out, drop the belly cover and look into cutting a hole in the web section of the rear crossmember. I'm not sure if there is enough room to just drill the 1 1/8 inch hole through the web and tank and fit the QF between the web and tank for install, or if I will have to put a hole in the web that is large enough for the QF to pass through. I will be sure to reenforce the web if I have to drill the require 3" hole to pass the QF through.


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Chris,

You are going to need to drill a hole at least big enough to pass the entire QuickieFlush through. There are those pesky mounting screws to get in as well! Plus, that will give yo a little extra room to work.









Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## arbee (Feb 3, 2005)

I ended up mounting mine in the side of tank closest to the dump handles.

The access was very tight and I did not have a right angle drill. What I did was find a socket (something like a 13/16 socket) whose outside diameter was about right. I put this on a ratchet and heated the crap out of it with a MAP torch. I then fed this to the side of the tank and pressed it right in making a nice hole. I had to sand the edges to remove some "burrs" but otherwise this worked well. Then I put the QFlush in place and marked the holes with something sharp. Then I took an appropriate sized nail, locked it in vices grips and heated the crap out of it. Then I punched the holes for the screws. I used hex screws and a small wrench to tighen.

It worked but it was a pain in the butt. I really didn't think of just cutting a big hole in the cross member.

Getting the belly off was a bigger pain for me due to the gas lines. I had to disconnect the gas lines and pull them out to get the belly down enough to work. Did anyone else have this problem?

Even with a quickie flush I still think the Outback is a pain to dump.


----------



## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Thanks again to all that responded so quickly. I am happy to report that as I am typing, the silicone is curing and another mod is almost in the books. I drilled a 3â€ hole in the web of the rear tank support crossmember. That gave me enough room to maneuver QF into place. The crossmember is 5 1/2 inches tall and in the shape of a Z with 1â€™ extending to the front on the top and 1â€™ extending to the rear on the bottom. My question is (I know another darn question) would that crossmember be okay like it is or should I reinforce where I put the 3â€ hole?

Chris


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

H2oSprayer said:


> My question is (I know another darn question) would that crossmember be okay like it is or should I reinforce where I put the 3â€ hole?


Chris,

Being a 'Z' section, that is an interesting question. If it were an 'I' or 'C' section, I know you would be fine. I would guess you would be OK, but I think if it were me, I would reinforce it (just to be safe).









Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

You did that much, grab a scrap of steel and a stick welder and stick it to it. Dont forget the paint so it wont rust.


----------



## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Piece of sheet metal same or a little heavier, larger than the hole and a few self drillingscrews.


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

H2oSprayer said:


> I drilled a 3â€ hole in the web of the rear tank support crossmember. Chris


Bummer, sorry to hear you had to go through so much trouble. With the potential weight of about 30 gallons of water, I would definately consider reinforcing the weakened cross-member.

As an FYI to any other member that may be reading this for a future install, you can get into some very tight areas with a Dremmel tool loaded with a 90 degree chuck. Then just use one of those roto-zip bits. Cuts like butter.


----------



## OVTT (Mar 31, 2006)

For the amount of time that you folks have invested into these installs and still have had to mount them in a less than desirable location (according to the instructions) and cutting away structural material it seems that I would be able to use the "wand" down the toilet 100 times before it would start saving me time. My other concern is that after the install is done I have listened to several complaints of the thing just falling apart all together. Am I the only one with this reasoning?


----------



## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

The wand would be great IF you have a straight shot into the black tank. From what i have read here most cant. Mine can in the 29BHS. I can look right down inside so i have a wand.


----------



## jodynbarry (Aug 22, 2005)

H2oSprayer said:


> For the amount of time that you folks have invested into these installs and still have had to mount them in a less than desirable location (according to the instructions) and cutting away structural material it seems that I would be able to use the "wand" down the toilet 100 times before it would start saving me time. My other concern is that after the install is done I have listened to several complaints of the thing just falling apart all together. Am I the only one with this reasoning?


Randy, I didn't want to drag a hose in the rig and after the install it works great but it depends on what you like.


----------



## sircarryalot (Jun 23, 2005)

I removed the cross member that holds your black tank in place when I did mine. Just make sure your tank is empty.

Strikey Mikey



campmg said:


> Why don't trailers come with these installed? Seems like a cheap item to add that would bring a lot of good will and easier to do when it's being constructed.


I was so happy when the new Cougar 5er we just bought had it installed from the factory. I think Keystone is starting to get the hint.

Strikey Mikey


----------



## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

I agree - Quickie Flush should be a standard feature on the Outbacks. Installing one is the best mod I have done. The dealer will install one for you as well. They should charge no more than 1.5hrs of labour.

Thor


----------



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

OVTT said:


> For the amount of time that you folks have invested into these installs and still have had to mount them in a less than desirable location (according to the instructions) and cutting away structural material it seems that I would be able to use the "wand" down the toilet 100 times before it would start saving me time. My other concern is that after the install is done I have listened to several complaints of the thing just falling apart all together. Am I the only one with this reasoning?


I use a "Flush King". 
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/in...22&src=SRQB
(Read the reviews for confirmation of this products usefullness)

Cost me about $35 bucks and has always worked as advertised. Per cleaning, it is a little more involved than a "Quickie Flush" but clean tank(s) is what you get in the end either way. The great thing is there are no tools, labor, metal or design work needed to use this simple little product.


----------



## stapless (Feb 20, 2005)

hatcityhosehauler said:


> I used a dremel tool with a flexible shaft drive, and a cutting bit. It took a while, and it wasn't pretty, but it worked, and then mounted the drill bit in the same drive shaft to drill the holes.
> 
> As far as driving the screws, I just took my time with a short handle screw driver.
> 
> ...


i used this mtechnique as well. worked well. i also have an '04 28 BHS. I had the same reaction when i dropped the underbelly. i mounted mine to the curb side of the black tank outlet valve. i'm considering putting one on the driver side as well, but haven't really had the time yet.

scott


----------



## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

I also agree it should be standard item
But I also had to puch a hole in my frame to mout it

Don


----------



## merlotman (Dec 28, 2004)

Some years ago I purchased a very compact right angle attachment for a 3/8-1/2 inch drill. Using this with my cordless drill and a hole saw bit I was able to get between the valve side of the tank and the beam to cut the hole. Everything went smoothly until I withdrew the bit and it fell into the tank. I had not tightened the chuck enough!







Putting in the Quickie Flush was a one man job but getting the bit out of the tank required the DW's help and a strong magnet on a long, flexible wand. Installation glitches aside, I'm sure glad I did the mod myself. Our dealer wanted $150!


----------

