# Rear Bed Slide Out Brackets Pulling Out From Back Of 02' 26Rs



## Dan Matthews (Mar 20, 2010)

Just wonder if anyone has an idea of what is structurally behind the brackets/spring clips that hold the support bars to the rear of the camper for the rear bed slide out on a 2002 26RS. My passengers side has 2 Phillips head 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts that are working themselves out when the bed is slid out, tighten only draws the screws in but you can clearly tell they are not grabbing any structural framing inside.

The driver side appears to have replacement hex head carriage bolts that look to be 5/16". I just bought this TT used and I am reluctant to take the drivers side out in fear of losing the integrity that they have currently.

I would like to try just upsizing the fasteners to 5/16 but I am concerned about the length...How thick is the wall in this area? Did they add any extra aluminum studs local to the brackets? Should I go in on a good angle? If I egg out these holes to much I believe the could be a disaster!

Does anyone know of how the framing is done back there? Would Keystone know? I know of a way to permanently fix the issue if I could attach to all the wall studding across the back: I would take a piece of 1/2" x 3" x 94" aluminum plate attach 2 - 5/16" self taping screws through clearance holes in the plate into all the wall studding. Then locate the brackets for the support bars and transfer the holes, drill and tap the aluminum and bolt up with socket head cap screws. This is the mechanical design engineer in me wanting to over kill the solution. I hope others have simply replaced the original fasteners with larger ones and this will be a done deal.

Any help would be appreciated!


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## Just Add Dirt (May 5, 2009)

Dan Matthews said:


> Just wonder if anyone has an idea of what is structurally behind the brackets/spring clips that hold the support bars to the rear of the camper for the rear bed slide out on a 2002 26RS. My passengers side has 2 Phillips head 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts that are working themselves out when the bed is slid out, tighten only draws the screws in but you can clearly tell they are not grabbing any structural framing inside.
> 
> The driver side appears to have replacement hex head carriage bolts that look to be 5/16". I just bought this TT used and I am reluctant to take the drivers side out in fear of losing the integrity that they have currently.
> 
> ...


Wecome to the site Dave!!

There are a lot of posts on this site about this problem: put "rear side problem" into the search box and you'll have a months' worth of reading...
On a lighter note.. We're have a Rally in PA June 17th -21st so far about 30 families, might get some helpful ideas there, about the rear slide issue. if you want to join us click on this link: NE Rally
Eric


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

There is not a lot to bolt to on those walls. They are 1.25 thick and there could have been wood blocks place in the wall for support but I would plan on using through bolts with fender washers and cap nuts to take the old holes in the wall out of the equation.


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## Scottps (Jan 21, 2010)

Are you talking about the ones that hold the two sliding rails that the rear slide out rolls on or the two on the sides that hold the rear slide in?


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## crunchman12002 (Jul 26, 2009)

Dan Matthews said:


> Just wonder if anyone has an idea of what is structurally behind the brackets/spring clips that hold the support bars to the rear of the camper for the rear bed slide out on a 2002 26RS. My passengers side has 2 Phillips head 1/4" x 1" carriage bolts that are working themselves out when the bed is slid out, tighten only draws the screws in but you can clearly tell they are not grabbing any structural framing inside.
> 
> The driver side appears to have replacement hex head carriage bolts that look to be 5/16". I just bought this TT used and I am reluctant to take the drivers side out in fear of losing the integrity that they have currently.
> 
> ...


On my 2005 25RSS... The trailer part has wood blocks, the slide part has steel threaded inserts that grab only fiberglass. Behind those are aluminum studs.
Solution? Slide out box, go for the through bolt method...
trailer part, use larger lag bolts.
crunchman


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## Ryan Ellis (Jan 7, 2008)

I had one bolt head break off after it loosened.

The original fasteners are galvanized Lag bolts into an Aluminum Cross Beam. I had to upsize to a 5/16 Lag to get any bite, but I could never get the replacement tight.

I've since replaced all the bolts with through bolts and fender washers inside. I think I used 2.5" long bolts. The bolt inserts from the inside, though a fender bolt, through the paneling inside, the aluminum beam, the outside skin, and into the bracket. I put the nut on the outside so the inside would be cleaner.

On mine, the bolt heads are behind the sofa and dinette seat, and even unpainted they're not noticeable.

Thats my solution to this problem.

Ryan 
Jacksonville, FL


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## Dan Matthews (Mar 20, 2010)

Thanks all for the quick reply's! I will probably attempt the larger carriage screws first with a back up plan for thru bolting! I may even make up a couple of 1/4 plates for the thru bolting to distribute the load better instead of just washers. Thanks again!

I'll let you all know how this works out!

Dan


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Dan Matthews said:


> Thanks all for the quick reply's! I will probably attempt the larger carriage screws first with a back up plan for thru bolting! I may even make up a couple of 1/4 plates for the thru bolting to distribute the load better instead of just washers. Thanks again!
> 
> I'll let you all know how this works out!
> 
> Dan


Do not forget the pictures!


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## Dan Matthews (Mar 20, 2010)

On another note, does anyone know why the welded D-rings/shackles that are on the end of the support bars are different side to side? One looks to be welded at ~ 10 degrees from horizontal and the other is 30-40?

They both seem to work equally well on either side. I haven't looked real close at this so I may be missing the obvious.

Thanks Dan


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## crunchman12002 (Jul 26, 2009)

Dan Matthews said:


> On another note, does anyone know why the welded D-rings/shackles that are on the end of the support bars are different side to side? One looks to be welded at ~ 10 degrees from horizontal and the other is 30-40?
> 
> They both seem to work equally well on either side. I haven't looked real close at this so I may be missing the obvious.
> 
> Thanks Dan


Make sure you use the right bar. One is marked with a "R" to indicate the right side. The R will be stamped on the silver part of the bar on the upper bar.
crunchman


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## Dan Matthews (Mar 20, 2010)

I added 2 - 5/16" x 1.5" long galvanized lages and its holding well so far. We are headed out Memorial Day Weekend so we shall see how it holds up.


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