# New Outback, Ac Not Cooling A Lot



## ak6143 (Jun 21, 2017)

Hi all. I just upgraded my 2013 Keystone Passport ultralight to a 2017 Outback 325BH. Im noticing that the AC is on and working and cold air is coming out of the vents however its not really cooling the camper like Im used to. It is 87deg here in Indiana today. What I am guess is the issue (and Im looking for your thoughts) is this new one is 50amp vs my old 30amp. Currently its plugged into my garage outlet (20 or 30amp outlet Im guessing). Im using my old adapter to plug 30amp into a normal 110 plug and then my 50amp pigtail into that to plug the camper in. So Im hoping the issue may just be not enough juice to get it running at optimal power.

Ive already got an electrician scheduled to come out to put in a 50amp plug and a 50amp breaker.

Any thoughts?

Thanks a lot

Adam


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## ST8-E (Jul 7, 2016)

Two things...

I have read that the ducting that connects to the vents is poorly taped and lets a lot of cold air out into the roof area, so take your vents off and check that area for gaps.

Also heard the plenum area has gaps. The area where the actual AC until goes between the roof.

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## ST8-E (Jul 7, 2016)

...


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## 325BH (May 10, 2016)

I have a 325BH. 1 ac isn't enough. I bought mine with two and ended up installing a 3rd in order to keep the BH cool.

The 325BH is 37'6" long. The ac unit favors the front due to location. The BH is far away and the ducts are about worthless.

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## deepvee16 (Jan 27, 2014)

I'm not an expert on how or why, but I've read that it's damaging to the compressor motor when operated with inadequate power. I may have read about it on this forum.

Good luck, and enjoy the new trailer.


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## ST8-E (Jul 7, 2016)

deepvee16 said:


> I'm not an expert on how or why, but I've read that it's damaging to the compressor motor when operated with inadequate power. I may have read about it on this forum.
> Good luck, and enjoy the new trailer.


I was going to preach about NOT running the A/C unit on 110v...but the OP said he was in the process of installing a 50a hookup at his house...so I figured he at least acknowledged it probably wasn't a good idea...


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## ak6143 (Jun 21, 2017)

Thx for the info. Im just curious whats the big difference with this config vs my passport 3220BH. The 3220 was a BH set up, only 1 AC and was inly about a foot shorter in overall length than this 335bh and we never really had issues stayijg cool. It was a 30amp trailer. I dont recall hiw bif the AC was but I gotta believe it was the same or smaller as what I have now.


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## Dropthejackstands (Jun 25, 2017)

We have a 328FL and I had a 2nd A/C added to the bedroom because one just isn't enough in an RV this size. There was only one duct in the bedroom which supplied minimal airflow and sleeping at night was not enjoyable unless we left the door open for air to flow in from the kitchen area. Plus, the main A/C ran almost non-stop. Now with the 2nd unit the main cuts on and off, taking a break and is able to keep up with the desired temp setting which I feel will lead to longer service life. Money well spent.


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## 325BH (May 10, 2016)

ST8-E said:


> deepvee16 said:
> 
> 
> > I'm not an expert on how or why, but I've read that it's damaging to the compressor motor when operated with inadequate power. I may have read about it on this forum.
> ...


The air conditioner, along with every other shore power device, runs only on 110 (120 actually) volts.

The 30 amp and 50 amp shore power connections are 120 volts. (The 50 amp is actually both 120 and 240 volts, however campers only use 120.)

I assume you are confusing the 15 or 20 amp receptacle with the term "110".

Running a camper air conditioner on a 20 amp receptacle is completely fine as long as you don't introduce voltage drop due to using to long of an extension cord that is not big (proper gauge) enough. A 15 amp receptacle would be cutting it close for a 15,000 BTU air conditioner.

A 15,000 BTU camper air conditioner draws between 13 and 15 amps... and is on a 20 amp breaker.

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## Thumper (May 19, 2014)

I would recommend a second A/C for your trailer. It's a big trailer and with temps close to 90 one is not enough. I have two on my trailer and made a big difference. The duct work is useless. But check for gaps around the plenum.


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

One thing that we have found to really help out with only having one 15k BTU unit on our 312 was to all clear plexiglas to the screen door. It help with keeping the warm humid air out while letting the light in and keeping the cool air in the camper. That, along with adding bubble pack insulation to the large picture window in the back has help tremendously.


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## ak6143 (Jun 21, 2017)

Thanks for all the replies. So far we have been pretty good. I think a large part of the problem was after having the windows open to try and air out the new camper smell it took forever to catch up after closing everything. I also had a 50amp receptacle added to the house which helped when at home I think. Actually the vent in the bathroom is freezing cold so I ordered some new vents that can be closed however they were much too small for the openings of my vents so back to the drawing board there.


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## GovGeek (Jun 28, 2016)

I had to seal up every duct while replacing all the vents. They were all leaking into the attic. The AC unit was even loose and not fully secured. I now have a free standing ac to help keep things cool.

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