# How Do You Keep Your Cabinet Doors Closed?



## brenda

When we got our roo home last Saturday, we went in and the closet and pantry doors were open..We shut them and noticed that there is hardly any resistance to hold them in,, the hardware is not tight so it does not keep the doors closed.. Anyone else have this problem? thanks for any pointers..


----------



## WillTy3

I used heavy duty velcro and it keep them shut.

Will


----------



## mikej997

I had this same problem and finally figured out that the cheap hinges were bent. This actually was causing the door to spring open and inch or two. When driving, any little bump and the door just popped open. I took the doors off and was able to bend the hinge back just with my hands. Pretty light duty stuff.







I may replace them as even after fix, you must be careful. If you open door too far... bent again! After fix, the doors stay shut during travel.


----------



## Scrib

It sounds like the locks (brown plastic ball & socket) are not alligned properly. You might try loosening the screws on the "socket" and pulling it out further towards the door-side of the cabinet, so the "ball" will fit further into it.


----------



## Hokie

Many people have done many different mods for this one. You should be able to find pictures and other posts on the subject.

My method was to cut small sections of 1/2" pvc pipe that were slightly longer than the cabinet width. I take each section and set it in front of the pantry slide-out drawers. Since they are longer than the cabinet width, the fit in at a diagonal, preventing the drawer from sliding out and hitting the door. When we arrive, we simply lift the pieces of pipe out and set them along side the drawer out of the way.


----------



## FraTra

brenda,

I had the same problem. I have the little brown barrel latches. I was talking to the tech that's been working on my OB and he came up with an idea to replace the screws that attach the piece to the door with screws that are a little larger. It makes the piece expand a little making more resistance. Cheap easy fix. You will also need to block the sliding pantry drawers during travel. There are several things others have done, I like the little tension rods from Camping World placed in front of the drawers.

Frank


----------



## GoVols

Two lengths of PVC pipe that sit between the sliding drawers and the cabinet door frame on the pantry. The pipe is slightly narrower than the inside of the cabinet but wider than the door frame. The pipe sits to the side of the slide drawer when not in use and does not interfere with the sliding action.


----------



## skippershe

I used a box of Pop Tarts before I converted over to a tension rod


----------



## Oregon_Camper

We use a cedar shakes. Simply place them under the drawer and push them in until they are tight.

It is the drawer that is push your cabinet door open. Secure the drawer and your problem is solved.


----------



## huntr70

Hi Brenda,

I got some of these from Lowe's and replaced all the catches in the trailer. They are not expensive, and solved the problem.










Steve


----------



## wolfwood

huntr70 said:


> Hi Brenda,
> 
> I got some of these from Lowe's and replaced all the catches in the trailer. They are not expensive, and solved the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steve


I LIKE!!!

I also use the box of foil (which is going with us anyway) in front of one drawer (which seems to be a particular culprit) to keep it from sliding in transit.


----------



## Rubrhammer

I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
Bob


----------



## Oregon_Camper

Rubrhammer said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


That has got to be the first time I've heard they were too tight.


----------



## watervalleykampers

Rubrhammer said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


Our cabinet latches are also very tight. I do plan to put something in front of the sliding shelves in the pantry, though, just to be on the safe side. The only latch that isn't tight is the one in the medicine cabinet. I can definitely see it coming open in transit & I'll probably have to do something about it.


----------



## brenda

watervalleykampers said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


Our cabinet latches are also very tight. I do plan to put something in front of the sliding shelves in the pantry, though, just to be on the safe side. The only latch that isn't tight is the one in the medicine cabinet. I can definitely see it coming open in transit & I'll probably have to do something about it.
[/quote]
Brenda's DH here and I'm sorry, but for the money we all have spent for our units, Keystone should be the one replacing or modifying the door and draw strikes!! After the money we spend on them, we need to mod them to get them to work properly????? NOT!!!!!! Now if a mod is something that can make life easier for something that's alrready a good design, then I'm all for it, but to fix something that should work at least like it should in the first place, no!! 
I will check the hinges on ours before taking the unit back to the dealer. I mean we spend 19 - 25 K on our units, they should work the way the were intended to work. 
I'm a wrencher from way back and I'm always looking for a better way to build a mouse trap, but QC at the factory and the dealer should catch these things ( and we should've caught it too) before selling or delivering the unit!! 
It's really no big deal for me to fix it, but I simply should'nt have too!!

Sorry, just venting a little, it just seems these days that the American consumer is continually getting ripped off! And I think it's because we let them get away with it, by fixing it ourselves. 
If we have trouble with drawer latches, doors, whatever, then we need to let keystone know about it. Maybe they don't know there's a problem with them. Recalls are generated by complaints and problems that the dealer reports. 
This is the first RV we've owned (and we've had several) that has had a problem with the doors and drawers not staying closed. The thing that really worries me, is that the unit was empty! There is no way the drawers will stay closed loaded! 
Will contact the dealer this week and will let you know what I find out. I just hate to have to tow it back to the dealer for a door strike kit, and most likely ill do the home Depot thing, but will be sure to let the dealer know that there is a problem with the Barrel Latches







.

Bill


----------



## huntr70

brenda said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


Our cabinet latches are also very tight. I do plan to put something in front of the sliding shelves in the pantry, though, just to be on the safe side. The only latch that isn't tight is the one in the medicine cabinet. I can definitely see it coming open in transit & I'll probably have to do something about it.
[/quote]
Brenda's DH here and I'm sorry, but for the money we all have spent for our units, Keystone should be the one replacing or modifying the door and draw strikes!! After the money we spend on them, we need to mod them to get them to work properly????? NOT!!!!!! Now if a mod is something that can make life easier for something that's alrready a good design, then I'm all for it, but to fix something that should work at least like it should in the first place, no!! 
I will check the hinges on ours before taking the unit back to the dealer. I mean we spend 19 - 25 K on our units, they should work the way the were intended to work. 
I'm a wrencher for way back and I'm always looking for a better way to build a mouse trap, but QC at the factory and the dealer should catch these things ( and we should've caught it too) before selling or delivering the unit!! 
It's really no big deal for me to fix it, but I simply should'nt have too!!

Sorry, just venting a little, it just seems these days that the American consumer is continually getting ripped off! And I think it's because we let them get away with it, by fixing it ourselves. 
If we have trouble with drawer latches, doors, whatever, then we need to let keystone know about it. Maybe they don't know there's a problem with them. Recalls are generated by complaints and problems that the dealer reports. 
This is the first RV we've owned (and we've had several) that has had a problem with the doors and drawers not staying closed. The thing that really worries me, is that the unit was empty! There is no way the drawers will stay closed loaded! 
Will contact the dealer this week and will let you know what I find out. I just hate to have to tow it back to the dealer for a door strike kit, and most likely ill do the home Depot thing, but will be sure to let the dealer know that there is a problem with the Barrel Larches







.

Bill
[/quote]
I agree with you 100%.........the problem with catching something like door latches is how would you test it??

I guess you could tow it around at the factory, but even when they deliver them, the transport driver is the first one in the unit. I'm sure they close everything that happened to open on the way, as they are liable for damages to the units.

The dealers, other than test towing the unit, would have no way of knowing. Should they work?? Yes. I'm sure they would work if they are tweaked a little. I just figured if I had to mess with screws anyway, I would replace all mine. I think about $15 covered every latch and then some.

You are right though, for the money spent, there should be no issues. Just remember, it is a house on wheels. I have issues with my house that cost a whole lot more, and it isn't on wheels!!

Get on the phone with Chris, he'll make it right.

Steve


----------



## Swany

brenda said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


Our cabinet latches are also very tight. I do plan to put something in front of the sliding shelves in the pantry, though, just to be on the safe side. The only latch that isn't tight is the one in the medicine cabinet. I can definitely see it coming open in transit & I'll probably have to do something about it.
[/quote]
Brenda's DH here and I'm sorry, but for the money we all have spent for our units, Keystone should be the one replacing or modifying the door and draw strikes!! After the money we spend on them, we need to mod them to get them to work properly????? NOT!!!!!! Now if a mod is something that can make life easier for something that's alrready a good design, then I'm all for it, but to fix something that should work at least like it should in the first place, no!! 
I will check the hinges on ours before taking the unit back to the dealer. I mean we spend 19 - 25 K on our units, they should work the way the were intended to work. 
I'm a wrencher from way back and I'm always looking for a better way to build a mouse trap, but QC at the factory and the dealer should catch these things ( and we should've caught it too) before selling or delivering the unit!! 
It's really no big deal for me to fix it, but I simply should'nt have too!!

Sorry, just venting a little, it just seems these days that the American consumer is continually getting ripped off! And I think it's because we let them get away with it, by fixing it ourselves. 
If we have trouble with drawer latches, doors, whatever, then we need to let keystone know about it. Maybe they don't know there's a problem with them. Recalls are generated by complaints and problems that the dealer reports. 
This is the first RV we've owned (and we've had several) that has had a problem with the doors and drawers not staying closed. The thing that really worries me, is that the unit was empty! There is no way the drawers will stay closed loaded! 
Will contact the dealer this week and will let you know what I find out. I just hate to have to tow it back to the dealer for a door strike kit, and most likely ill do the home Depot thing, but will be sure to let the dealer know that there is a problem with the Barrel Latches







.

Bill
[/quote]

Amen Bro!


----------



## Mtn.Mike

When I bought my new trailer we noticed that all of the doors didn't close properly. This was brought to the attention of the tech who did the PDI and they agreed that the doors should close better than they do and they will "fix" them.
I also agree that this is something that should be caught in the QC area before the trailer ever left the factory.
If all it takes is very light pressure and the door opens obviously they aren't functioning properly.

Mike


----------



## wicandthing

Oregon_Camper said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


That has got to be the first time I've heard they were too tight.








[/quote]

Our cabinet door underneath the stove is so tight that the DW can't open it. I have to get down on my knees and use both hands to. The rest are too easy..... go figure.


----------



## kargorooOutbacker

We are using some door stops from Home Depot.
Two per drawer on top of a Non-Slip Line It, and problem solved.


----------



## skippershe

watervalleykampers said:


> I on the other hand have to occasionally soap our latches so that the DW can pull the doors and drawers open. I thought she was going to rip the entire cabinet off the wall one time.LOL
> Bob


 The only latch that isn't tight is the one in the medicine cabinet. I can definitely see it coming open in transit & I'll probably have to do something about it.
[/quote]
While trying to tighten the latch inside the medicine cabinet door, My DH accidentally broke the latch completely off







I used a piece of 3M locking velcro and it works much better than the latch ever did









Brenda's DH has made the best point...we shouldn't have to do a mod on something that should have been designed to work in the first place


----------



## countrygirl

Hey Dawn when you had your OB worked on recently did the take off and reinstall your upside down swoosh??? How come QC did not catch an upside down decal?


----------



## skippershe

countrygirl said:


> Hey Dawn when you had your OB worked on recently did the take off and reinstall your upside down swoosh??? How come QC did not catch an upside down decal?


Hiya countrygirl,
yes, the swoosh was corrected...the decal fell off anyway, so they just replaced it...looks good as new!


----------



## countrygirl

Hi Dawn...glad they took care of it for ya.


----------



## brenda

Hey all,
I emailed Keystone about the door latch problem last week! TO my surprize, they actully called me today!! On a Holiday no less!!! Anyway, the guy said that the problem could be that the latches just aren't lined up correctly. I will attempt to readjust later this afternoon.
It's good to know that there are companies out there that will answer customer questions and address concerns. Get's back to my point from a previous post. We gotta let em know what's going on. If enough of us email or call them about a problem, I honestly think they'll address the issue. 
Will post up if I can adjust the barrels enough to get them to secure properly. 
If they don't I did buy the Home Depot fix yesterday ( if all else fails) They were only 83 cents a set.









Bill And Brenda


----------



## skippershe

Hi Brenda,

Very cool that Keystone called back so soon...We'll be waiting for a full report


----------



## Scoutr2

Hi Brenda









I'm positive that the sliding drawers in your pantry are bumping that door open. Here's how I stopped this from happening on ours:










These bolts stay up while you're camping, but lock in place easily when you are ready to roll.

Here's what you need:
> A couple of brass barrel-bolts from the hardware store
> A couple pieces of short 1X2, about 2" long each (with some leftover stain from another project)
> About four screws (from beneath the shelf and up, into the 1X2)

This fix is a little more involved than some of the previous, but they lock and unlock in a second!

Hope this helps you (or someone else),
Mike


----------



## Lady Di

DH cut two peices of wood that I just wedge in front. Works fabulously!


----------



## tripphammer

Hi folks! I found a great solution







. But since my TT is in getting an axle flip, I couldn't get a pic







. But here's the info: Safety 1st, Ultra Secure, Cabinet and Drawer Latches. Spring Loaded for extra durability and they fold down for periods of non-use (like when at the campsite). They come in a 4-pack and the item number is 48303 and the UPC number is 052181483035. They are available at LOWE'S... not agent orange (just had to add the editorial since I'm working as the Kitchen Design Instructor at the Lowe's here in Helena, MT for another 40 days). When I go in tomorrow morning I try to get a more detailed location in the store for you. These are truly a great item for keeping the doors AND drawers closed while in transit.
Take Care,
Tripp


----------



## 2500Ram

wicandthing said:


> [Our cabinet door underneath the stove is so tight that the DW can't open it. I have to get down on my knees and use both hands to. The rest are too easy..... go figure.


Same for us. My solution believe it or not was to spray some PAM cooking spray on the barrel, I used a paper towel behind to catch the over spray. We were camping and didn't have any other lubricant at the time but couldn't get the door open unless I was on my knees and pulling with all I had. This has worked well for 2 years now on only one application.

Worth a try









Bill.


----------



## brenda

TrippHammer said:


> Hi folks! I found a great solution
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But since my TT is in getting an axle flip, I couldn't get a pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But here's the info: Safety 1st, Ultra Secure, Cabinet and Drawer Latches. Spring Loaded for extra durability and they fold down for periods of non-use (like when at the campsite). They come in a 4-pack and the item number is 48303 and the UPC number is 052181483035. They are available at LOWE'S... not agent orange (just had to add the editorial since I'm working as the Kitchen Design Instructor at the Lowe's here in Helena, MT for another 40 days). When I go in tomorrow morning I try to get a more detailed location in the store for you. These are truly a great item for keeping the doors AND drawers closed while in transit.
> Take Care,
> Tripp


excellent idea, I just looked these up on the net and they are about 3$ for a 4 pack and look easy enough..thanks


----------



## egregg57

Scrib said:


> It sounds like the locks (brown plastic ball & socket) are not alligned properly. You might try loosening the screws on the "socket" and pulling it out further towards the door-side of the cabinet, so the "ball" will fit further into it.


 We had some of that! and also the reverse! the doors were very hard to open! So we used a minute amount of vaseline on the ball and the doors that were tight work very nicely. The two that popped open were from the recessed female side as far as i can tell just loosened the screws and shifted the reciever out a bit and Viola! Easy way to check if that's the problem. If that doesn't get it then maybe I would mess with hinges and such.

Eric


----------

