# Trailer Brakes, Time To Do 'em!



## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

No camping for us this weekend, the Outback is up on some 6 ton jackstands and the wheels are off. I thought I had seen links posted here in the past on some good "how-to's" regarding doing your own brake pad replacement and the like. I realize I will need to take the drums to a shop to have them examined and possibly turned. Does anyone have handy a link or a good set of instructions they can share? Tips and tricks? I'll repack the wheel bearings too, since I'm in there. Ready to roll up my sleeves and get dirty!

Camping starts next month when the wife and kids are on summer break! Heading to the Redwoods in northern CA for a week starting on Father's Day.


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## Chuggs (Jun 8, 2010)

http://www.etrailer.com/tv.aspx?productgroup=Trailer Brakes

There are all kinds of videos...

I put trailer brakes on my Wells Cargo Trailer and used these guys...

http://www.easternmarine.com/shop/

I've heard that you can sometimes purchase the entire assembly for less money than just replacing the magnets and shoes. So, shop around. It would be a easy job to pull the hubs...clip the wires...remove 4 mounting bolts...and then reinstall a new assembly in the reverse order.

If you're pulling your hubs...I would have on-hand new bearings/races...in case they need to be replaced...and I'd always replace the rear grease seal. Repack them before putting them back on.

Etrailer has all kinds of videos from brakes and repacking wheel hubs.... Hope you find their videos of use...


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

Thanks Chuggs! Appreciate the info/links and I'll do some research on the cost of an entire assembly vs individual parts. Plus, my time is worth something too! At least I'd like to think so.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

I did my brakes last year. I went ahead and replaced the entire brakes assembly with parts from etrailer.com. It was very easy to do, basically four bolts and a couple wires. This is the only way to change trailer brakes in my opinion. I used "never adjust" brakes assemblies, which I am happy with. Took a bit to seat and wear in, but work well now.

I don't think you need to have your brake drums turned unless you have damaged them in some way. If they are damaged, I think it will be cheaper and easier just to buy new drums and recycle the old ones.

DAN


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

Thanks Dan! I'm taking a look right now and I see them in this link. What do I need to know about my trailer to choose the right ones? Looks like options with diameter and axle rating. Any suggestions on how I can tell what my 2004 26RS has? I figure I need to pull the drum off and measure one, but not sure about the axles.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

There should be a metal tag looped around the axle to give you the axle details.


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

CamperAndy said:


> There should be a metal tag looped around the axle to give you the axle details.


Thanks CamperAndy! Found the tag, not sure I would have ever noticed it.









Tag details:

Model: D35 1
Date: 225 03  (I would assume Feb 25th, 2003. We bought it new in Sept. of 2003)
SLR: 316 mm
2750 lbs (I would assume my axle rating)
AL-KO KOBER
I notice that stamped onto the drum it says: Al-KO Max dia. 10.090. Does this mean its' a 10" diameter?

Thanks again! You guys are da' bomb!


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

The new brakes are installed, cleaned, re-packed the wheel bearings and all seems good. Hooked up the truck to the trailers umbilical cord and had my wife step on the brake peddle. Well, the brakes on the trailer did not lock up the drums. I could hear an electrical hum from each drum, but the brakes did not engage enough (at all) to stop me from turning the drum by hand. Can I assume it's because I haven't adjusted them yet? The brake adjustment tool I bought is not long enough to reach the starwheel adjuster, I need to buy a longer one today. I just figured I would have had _some_ braking evident.

Also, I was doing some on-line searching and found something that said if I have a "drop spindle axle" a tool with about an 80 degree angle should be used. Do we have drop spindle axles?

The wiring was simply two green wires/unit which I soldered back to the original wires coming from the frame for each drum. It doesn't matter which wire as long as they are both connected, right?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Sounds like you just need to tighten the shoes to start. They should just drag when you spin the wheel by hand. Once you have seated the shoes you will need to readjust the shoes to bring them back to the just drag point.

The axles are not drop spindle design.

If both wires are green then no it does not matter which way you connect it.


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## wolverine (Mar 5, 2009)

Did you replace your AL-KO brakes with Dexter style brake assemblies? I found it hard to find parts for the AL-KO brakes. I replaced mine with Dexter brake assemblies and they work fine. My manual said to tighten the adjuster until the wheel is hard to turn and then back the adjuster off until the wheel will rotate 1 full turn. You will have to repeat this after the brakes are broken in.


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

CamperAndy said:


> Did you replace your AL-KO brakes with Dexter style brake assemblies? I found it hard to find parts for the AL-KO brakes. I replaced mine with Dexter brake assemblies and they work fine. My manual said to tighten the adjuster until the wheel is hard to turn and then back the adjuster off until the wheel will rotate 1 full turn. You will have to repeat this after the brakes are broken in.


Hi Wolverine, yes to the Dexter's. Thanks too for the tip. I also have a Prodigy brake controller, so I suspect I will need to 'reset' that as well.


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## dirtengineer (Jun 6, 2010)

Herbicidal said:


> The new brakes are installed, cleaned, re-packed the wheel bearings and all seems good. Hooked up the truck to the trailers umbilical cord and had my wife step on the brake peddle. Well, the brakes on the trailer did not lock up the drums. I could hear an electrical hum from each drum, but the brakes did not engage enough (at all) to stop me from turning the drum by hand. Can I assume it's because I haven't adjusted them yet? The brake adjustment tool I bought is not long enough to reach the starwheel adjuster, I need to buy a longer one today. I just figured I would have had _some_ braking evident.
> 
> Also, I was doing some on-line searching and found something that said if I have a "drop spindle axle" a tool with about an 80 degree angle should be used. Do we have drop spindle axles?
> 
> The wiring was simply two green wires/unit which I soldered back to the original wires coming from the frame for each drum. It doesn't matter which wire as long as they are both connected, right?


I have the tool specifically designed for adjusting brakes, but I usually end up using a flat head screwdriver...


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

dirtengineer said:


> I have the tool specifically designed for adjusting brakes, but I usually end up using a flat head screwdriver...


I bought a "universal" brake adjustment tool on the way home from work last night and this one was long enough on the business end (and angled enough) to reach the starwheel adjuster. All are now adjusted, with a touch of drag. Tonight I need to get the wheels back on and get her off the jack stands for some test drives and adjustment of the Prodigy brake controller. With the trailer up on jack stands, the suspension droops all the way down and the leaf spring mount and axle are in the way of using a screwdriver, at least for me. Maybe if I bent the heck out of one it would work.









Thanks everyone!


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