# De-winterizing



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Spring is finally here and in a few short weeks we will be making our maiden voyage in the 250RS. Since this our first TT, I am really not sure where to start with getting it ready to go. I remember someone (maybe during the PDI) mentioning about being careful with a bypass valve..and flushing?

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rick


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## swanny (Oct 31, 2007)

if it were me i'd keep the bypass closed *if it was winterized with it closed*. drain all the pink stuff and the flush out the system with water. after i had all water i would open the bypass and fill the hot WH and pull the drain plug, drain and replace. refill rinse, sanitize and then freshen with baking soda and water. don't really know how long to let each stage sit before going to the next. please, if i'm wrong correct me so i can change my procedure.


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## MNoutbackers (Jan 30, 2009)

swanny said:


> if it were me i'd keep the bypass closed *if it was winterized with it closed*. drain all the pink stuff and the flush out the system with water. after i had all water i would open the bypass and fill the hot WH and pull the drain plug, drain and replace. refill rinse, sanitize and then freshen with baking soda and water. don't really know how long to let each stage sit before going to the next. please, if i'm wrong correct me so i can change my procedure.


I just read this somewhere, could have been here or another RV site, can't remember as I have been reading alot on dewinterizing also. This is our first TT also. So you will see that we have asked alot of questions, lol.

This is what I found and we are going to do it this weekend;

Use 1/2 cup bleach per 15 gallons. After you drain all the antifreeze, fill up the freshwater tank and add bleach. Open all faucets and run water until you smell bleach. Let sit overnight. Drain and flush. Fill up fresh tank again and add 1/2 cup baking soda per 15 gallons. Let this sit overnight. Drain and flush and should be ready to go.

Last fall when we winterized, we couldn't access the bypass valve. We now have found that it is behind a panel and will have to cut an access hole in this panel before next fall. So we filled the water heater with antifreeze, so will have to flush this as well.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I would hook up to shore water and flush everything really well first, drain everything. Then sanitize.


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

Here is the million dollar question on sanitizing the tank and lines, do you plan to drink the tap water? If not, your trailer is new just flush the lines with city water, fill and dump the fresh water tank and call it good.

We take bottled water to drink and use tank water to cook/shower with. Yes you need to sanitize the freshwater tank/lines ~once a year, but new, It's your choice, nothing but your time as I'm sure you have bleach at the house, don't use the summer breeze scented type stuff. I also wouldn't put bleach water in the water heater as that is harder to get all the water out of if you decide to sanitize.

The best way I've found to flush the water heater is to lift the relief valve with city water running filling the tank and have the low point drain open, open the release valve on the heater when the low point drain starts to flow water. It has been stated on here that lifting the relief valve is a big no no on any water heater, but I'm going on 4 seasons with dozens flushes and zero issues, maybe I'm lucky.

One last tidbit, if you get foamy water out of your tap water, normally hot, there is still antifreeze in the lines. Don't worry about it, it's non toxic and goes away with a few days or camping trips.

Enjoy the new trailer.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

swanny said:


> if it were me i'd keep the bypass closed *if it was winterized with it closed*. drain all the pink stuff and the flush out the system with water. after i had all water i would open the bypass and fill the hot WH and pull the drain plug, drain and replace. refill rinse, sanitize and then freshen with baking soda and water. don't really know how long to let each stage sit before going to the next. please, if i'm wrong correct me so i can change my procedure.


I am not sure if it was closed or not - I understand the concept of a "bypass" - but - what I don't understand is how it applies to the TT - and to which - hot water heater or water pump? Just a quick explanation would help a lot!


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

I'll try to describe it. The bypass simply connects the incoming water line to the heater to the outgoing hot water line. turn the knob one way and water goes through the heater. Turn it the other way and the heater is blocked off and the water goes through the bypass.

As for accessing it, there's usually screws you can remove on a panel to get to it, but it will be just behind the water heater. Definetly flush the whole system well (no pink and no foam) before sanitizing..









For timing, I don't do the overnight thing. I figure a couple hours should be enough. Oh, and be cafeful about adding bleach to the fresh water tank, sometimes it doesn't pour in real well and you could ruin your pants or shoes in a big hurry!


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Been watching the temps - for the past few days its been quite cold at night - want to wait until the temps bottom out in the 40's. Here in SE PA - looks like were heading there now. We're coming up on our maiden voyage end of April - can't wait!


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