# Do Outback Warrenties Transfer?



## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

I purchased a 2007 Keystone Outback here about a month ago. I was wondering if the warranty on the roof specifically transfer's between owners. I purchased it from a private party. The reason I ask is during the buyers inspection they mentioned for maintenance I should have the roof seals re-done. It didn't look like the previous owner had done anything to maintain the seals, but I am also wondering if I need to. From my understanding the roof is covered for 15 years (I may be incorrect), and the shop wants 125/hr and roughly 6 hours to re-do the roof. Is it worth it? I don't have a shop that I can bring it into and do it myself so I am pretty much limited on having a dealer / rv shop do it.

I did do a quick search and didn't see anything come up specifically.


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## Camping Family From MI (Feb 20, 2010)

I am not sure if it is roof from the Dicor Corporation but I found the warranty information for ours 2010 at Dicor.com. Here the link to the warranty and maintenance info at Dicor.


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

The roof warranty is against defects and wear.

It does NOT cover seals, seams, or punctures caused by trees or other objects.

If you read the warranty carefully, even the 1 year "bumper to bumper" warranty does not cover sealants....


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Wash the roof and then inspect it yourself. Apply lap sealant to any questioable spots.

Cost is a hour of your time and a tube of dicor caulk.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Just like people mentioned. The issue is the dicor caulk that seals all of the screw holes where roof stuff is attached. You should check and reapply at least every year, and probably spring and fall if you leave it out all winter. It's not a hard job, but can be messy if you get the dicor on your hands or clothes.

Incidentally, they are probably quoting a new roof which you shouldn't need unless it has major damage. If you have questions, snap a couple pictures of the roof and post them and we'll do our best to give suggestions.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Nathan said:


> Just like people mentioned. The issue is the dicor caulk that seals all of the screw holes where roof stuff is attached. You should check and reapply at least every year, and probably spring and fall if you leave it out all winter. It's not a hard job, but can be messy if you get the dicor on your hands or clothes.
> 
> Incidentally, they are probably quoting a new roof which you shouldn't need unless it has major damage. If you have questions, snap a couple pictures of the roof and post them and we'll do our best to give suggestions.


Thanks all for the replies,

The only thing they would be re-doing is the caulk. It looks like over time it has chipped off in spots, so they are wanting to clean the entire roof, take off all of the old caulk and then re-do it to make sure it seals properly. The technician was saying that it looked like the 2007 didn't have the "good stuff" because where the side wall and the roof meet there is a trim piece where there is caulk. He showed me where it had dried out and just by touching it pieces of it would come off.

I would take pictures, but currently it has about an inch or two of ice with about two feet of snow on it. Main reason why I can't do it myself is I have no place to melt off the snow. Thanks again!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

At this point there is no real advantage to rush it into the shop, if you have no indications in the trailer of active or recent leaks. Wait for spring, and do it yourself and save $700.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> At this point there is no real advantage to rush it into the shop, if you have no indications in the trailer of active or recent leaks. Wait for spring, and do it yourself and save $700.


x2 ... er .... x700









You'll need either a step ladder, or can lean a standard ladder against the side. If it's that bad, you'll want to use a plastic putty knife to remove all of the loose bits. Then clean the roof with any good roof cleaner. Once it dries, open the tube of Dicor and start spreading it on. You don't need to have the precision of s surgeon. Just imagine you are putting icing on a cake over the exposed screws. Make sure you use self leveling Dicor and you should be good to go after an afternoon's worth of work.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

If you still don't feel comfortable doing this, you might think about attending an local Outbacker.com Rally. I'm sure there would be a LOT of folks there that would be happy to help you with this...might cost ya a beer or two.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

As for the warranty, I was told a couple of years ago, that all warranties on trailers are NON-transferable. Supposedly it helps keep the price of the new ones down.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

In my first trailer... I never maintained the roof and in the 7th year had a little water leakage during a heavy rainfall...

I inspected the roof after this and realized the roof seals were just dried out and I needed to re-gunk with Dicor or do something different. I ended up buying a roll of Eternabond and on a nice warm day just applied that to all the seals and edges of the roof....around the vents, etc. Wasn't that hard to apply and while I checked the roof more regularly, I never had to do anything else to the roof for the next couple of years till it sold.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Yeah, I didn't see any sign of leaking when I inspected it. Nor did the dealer, they just recommended it for maintenance. As for the Dicor I know they offer multiple products and I believe the one I'm looking for is the Lap Sealant? It seems pretty straight forward, pretty much like caulking in a bathroom from what I have seen on video's. The dealer was saying they were going to completely take off all of the old lap sealant, do you think this would be a good idea to insure that it bonds good? Or just do a nice thick bead on both sides of the corner trim piece?

While we are on the topic of sealing, the lower support for my rear slide was replaced by the previous owner. Now I haven't been able to actually look at it up close, but do I need to get some sort of seal around the lower support and the outer wall of the outback? Wondering if during break up if water will sneak in there if I don't do something about it. I have the trailer on a bit of a slope so that any run off will drain off the front at the moment.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The removal of the old sealant is only needed if it is no longer bonded to the roof. In that case use a little heat and a plastic scraper and remove the stuff that comes off easily. Then put a thick bead on the area to reseal. You can buy 15 tubes of caulk for the price of one roll of eternabond, I will keep doing the required inspections and resealing as/if needed with Dicor.


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## akjason (Jan 2, 2011)

Great info!

I appreciate all of your help and will take care of this when the horrible snow melts.

Thanks a bunch,

Jason


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