# 2004 23RS Water Heater Blowing Fuses



## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

We just took our new 23RS out for its maiden voyage and all went well except that the water heater blows the 12V /15 Amp fuse the instant you try to use electric heat. Anyone else have a problem with that? If so what fixed it?

Obviously somthing is shorted to ground in the control circuit and some time with the schematic and an ohm meter will no doubt fix the problem but why "search" for the short if there is a known cure









Thanks!!


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Had the exact opposite problem, worked on electric but tripped the fuse on gas. Turned out there was a short in the wiring. Once it was fixed, no problems. Sounds like you are on track thinking it is a short somewhere. Keep us posted.

Mike


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## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

FIXED!!! What I found was this... The factory had wired the electric water heater switch with 12 Volts on one side and ground on the other... needless to say, this will blow a fuse in a heartbeat (less actually).

Found that the wire which should have been on the switch had been crimped into another connector (along with 2 other wires) and attached to the red "lock-out" lamp. Cut off both of the connectors in question and put the wires back as they should have been (boo hiss for Keystone quality control) and guess what? Thats right campers...hot water and no blown fuses!!

If you are having a problem like this with a new unit, and your local dealer is not an option, shoot me an e-mail and I wil give you the technical details of what to look at. Of couse, as with every other bit of advice on the board.... use at your own risk!

Steve


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Steve
Thanks for the heads up. I don't think I've ever turned it on electric yet!


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Good catch Steve. You are obviously an experienced "techie" to be able to run it down with the ohmeter. I have one of those things and spend half the time figuring out where to set the dial


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## fixjet (Jan 19, 2004)

I had a different wiring problem with the water heater. I would get a shock from the water when draining the tank any time I was plugged into 110v. Even with the 110 main pulled. I traced it to the water heater connections. Just jammed into the junction box and the ground wire not hooked up. I can now drain the water without getting zapped.


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## mjwencl (Feb 25, 2004)

I got a Water Heater Electric issue with my 2004 25RS-S. The Electric blows a 15 AMP fuse when enabled. Never tried it out at the dealer DPI. So far it turns out the 12V enable from the monitor panel switch is wired to an In-Wall wire that is grounded, pinch shorted, or other. Everything else works thus far. Water Pump works, Water Gas Heat works, NO Water Electric Heat.

I have the wire nuts removed and taped the wires that cause the short until I can have it looked at further by the dealer. Would be nice to have the wiring schematic diagrams that are used for this unit.

I guess if the Keystone people knew what they were doing, they'd use crimp terminals instead of wire nuts to connect electric circuits. I hope the problem can be resolved without tearing the camper apart!!!









Not getting much satisfaction yet ... but soon will see what the customer sat is from the dealer and Keystone.


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## Kenstand (Mar 25, 2004)

Mike, I had the same problem with the water heater blowing fuses on my 25RS-S. I took it back to the dealer and everything is fine now. They didn't go into any detail... just said it was a wiring problem.

Good luck with your unit... hope it is fixed and on the road soon.


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

mjwencl,

Just curious as to why you think wire nuts are bad? I think it makes it easier for us to correct the mistakes that have been made in the factory.









It does bring up a question though. Does the coach wiring fall under the NEC, or is it considered automotive wiring? Any electricians out there want to try to answer this one?









Tim


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## mjwencl (Feb 25, 2004)

I prefer the use of crimp terminals when you are dealing with stranded wire. When you use solid wire, like in home 120V AC circuits, then, wire nuts are OK provided the nut has an internal metal holder. I actually prefer soldering my connections and covering with heat shrink tubing for a more permanent connection. Wire nuts fall into the connector catagory. And connector means "Malfunction Junction".









My opinion and experience, of course.


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi Guy's,I agree wire nuts have their place but anywhere there is vibration they will come loose. Crimping or soldering is the way to go. Like Mike I have been replacing wire nuts with crimps when ever I find them. Kirk


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

I like the solder/heat shrink idea. I just haven't had the opportunity or need to modify any of the wiring.....yet









Tim


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## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

For those of you who asked, I have added two pictures to the photo gallery that should make the wiring problem more clear. Have a look!!

If I can help any more just ask!

Steve


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

It's official...my water heater doesn't work in electric mode. I tried resetting, but nothing. Power is getting to the switch, but it doesn't heat up. Any suggestions?

Another one for the service dept. I guess.


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## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

Jolly,

Remember that the voltage going to the switch is just the 12VDC control vontage to signal the water heater to use electric. The actual heating element runs on 115VAC so you must have the camper plugged in to shore power to get it to work on electric (I'm sure you already know that but like a poster earlier said, start with the easy stuff first).

Here are my sugestions....

If you know about electricity (or can get a friend)

-- Make sure that the 12 VCD signal is making it to the weater heater to signal it to heat via electric 
-- Make sure that 115VAC is present at the water heater

Well, there you have my advice...worth what you paid for it 









Steve


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## mjwencl (Feb 25, 2004)

My enable wire for the Water Heater Electric at the water heater side was wired to the DSI Fault light at the panel monitor. This is not right. I fixed it.

The 12V Water Heater Electric enable switch from the monitor panel was wired to the DSI Fault wire on the Water Heater side. This is not right. I fixed it.

The orange / white zipcord style wire from the water heater side is making contact with chassis ground for both wires. That is not right either, and I assume it's pinched somewhere up above as it routes through the ceiling somehow (guessing by the direction the wire enters the wall). This is not right. Dealer had to route a new wire.

More investigation required to find the short to ground or find a new route for another 18AWG wire.


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## mjwencl (Feb 25, 2004)

Dealer confirmed my findings and had to run a new wire from the monitor panel down the wall through the tub access panel hole into the underbelly and string it back to the water heater hole in the floor and connect it to the enable electric on the water heater. Fixed.

Other cosmetic repairs completed too.

Let's Go Camping! WHA HOOOOO!


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Glad you got it fixed, gotta have hot water







Sounds like the same problem mine had when we first got it.

Mike


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## The SMiths In De (Mar 10, 2004)

For the record, Had an issue with the Hot water heater last time out.
Whether a spider or something else clogged the line or it turned faulty on me after 4 uses, I don't know., but I had a fire in the housing
. 
I hit the swich inside and walked outside to make sure it was fired up, and boy was it fired up. Luckily I had the hose already hooked up to the dual connection and was able to squirt immediatley but it had already did its damage. I also had the door already open to the exterior of the hot water heater, With a closed exterior door, I think it would have been much worse. I know its vented but....

Needless to say the wires are fried and I think there is a circuit board of some sort there that is fried also and after speaking with Jim Calabrese at Atwood a vendor I assume for the hot water heater ( I told the dealer and this guy called us), he said it was an act of god and to submit it under my insurance as it wouldn't be covered under warranty on my 3 month old 25RSS.

I have always been extremely diligant after I light the hot water heater with this camper as well as my others to go out and check it after it is lit to make sure it is lit and the gas is not building up. This why the door was already open.

This is my first expereince with a back flash fire of this nature.
I personally thought there would be a quicker shut off to the gas before it built up like that. My 7 & 6 yr were sitting right there at the dinette and asked what the flash was, I told them it was just my flashlight as not to scare them.

The good news, The electric still worked so we had hot water the weekend, the bad news is , heading away for 6 days on Monday and haven't been able to get anyone to fix it.

I still have an issue with the vendor telling me I was basically on my own.I will deal with them, the haven't seen the wrath of Smith yet!

As far as rating my outback,







It still get thumbs up!







These things happen.
Can't wait to go away....


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Glad everyone was ok, and that the Outback is still usable. As a professional firefighter, I must caution you to make sure everyone is out of the trailer until you are positive the fire is out, and that it didn't spread anywhere unseen.

Hopefully, this will never happen again. Thanks for sharing the experience with everyone so that we can all be on the lookout for this in the future.

Tim


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Glad you are all ok.

Tim...well said. As usual.


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## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

Glad you are all safe and the trailer is OK. Can you update us on what the folks at Atwood or Outback said/did for you on this?









Steve


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