# Anode Rod, Sattelite Tv, Sealed Underbelly



## Blaezer (Mar 2, 2008)

Greetings: I am new to this forum and have 3 questions to begin with, and thanks for reading them. We have a 2007 Outback 26RLS that we tow with a 2006 Durrango SUV with a 5.7L Hemi engine.

1. I put an anode rod in my water heater as it did not have one, but I am reading here that the tank may be aluminum and not need one. Is that the case and is there any harm in having one in? Instead of changing it this season should I just put in a new plastic plug?

2. When we are not traveling with our unit, it is parked on a site in a local campground. I want to set up a sattelite dish for DIRECTV. I have 2 recceivers to use (one for the living area TV and on for the bedroom TV). I do not want to disturb the cable and antenae booster system already present so that I can use that while traveling. What might be the best way to wire for sattelite? I was considering just running the cable underneath the trailer and coming up through the floor for each connection.

3. Is there an access point in the sealed underbelly, such as to access plumbing or run my sattelite cabels?

Thanks a bunch. This is a great forum with valuable information.

Blaezer


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Blaezer said:


> Greetings: I am new to this forum and have 3 questions to begin with, and thanks for reading them. We have a 2007 Outback 26RLS that we tow with a 2006 Durrango SUV with a 5.7L Hemi engine.
> 
> 1. I put an anode rod in my water heater as it did not have one, but I am reading here that the tank may be aluminum and not need one. Is that the case and is there any harm in having one in? Instead of changing it this season should I just put in a new plastic plug?
> 
> ...


I would think you could just feed the cable right into the cable port on the side of the trailer. Then make sure the booster thing is set to cable.









As for anode rod, I have the plastic plug so I can't help you there. Sorry.


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

I use an anode plug and replace it every year -- it gets very corroded so i would say that it is working...

for satelite -- do a search -- tons of info on this site -- but you CANNOT go through the exsiting power/amplifier port -- will not work -- needs to be a direct line from dish to tuner... wiring is via the cieling not the underbelly ... all youneed to do is put a splitter in at the power/amplifier -- takes about 30 minutes and work great ...


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Hi Blaezer
















to Outbackers! 

Happy Camping,


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## Piecemaker (Nov 15, 2007)

Ghosty said:


> I use an anode plug and replace it every year -- it gets very corroded so i would say that it is working...
> 
> for satelite -- do a search -- tons of info on this site -- but you CANNOT go through the exsiting power/amplifier port -- will not work -- needs to be a direct line from dish to tuner... wiring is via the cieling not the underbelly ... all youneed to do is put a splitter in at the power/amplifier -- takes about 30 minutes and work great ...


Ghosty

It's to my understanding that you don't have to replace the anode rod every year.

My understanding is you should replace it only when there is a thin rod left.

Brian


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## Piecemaker (Nov 15, 2007)

Blaezer








Welcome to the Outbackers family.









Brian


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

For the satelite, if you don't want to drill holes and make things permanent, you can by flat coax that will slide into the window or door openings.

That is quick and easy way to bypass the booster and splitter problems.


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## Blaezer (Mar 2, 2008)

huntr70 said:


> For the satelite, if you don't want to drill holes and make things permanent, you can by flat coax that will slide into the window or door openings.
> 
> That is quick and easy way to bypass the booster and splitter problems.


Thank you all for responding. We are looking forward to visiting this forum and seeing what is happening in the Outback community. I like the idea of flat COAX. I will have to check that out.

Thanks again!
Blaezer


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## fspieg (Jul 31, 2006)

I'm surprised your trailer does not have through the wall Sat prep. http://www.rvshop.com/catalog/product_info...7c61412e4423801 When we purchased our 2007 they had several Outbacks both Sidney's and standard editions and they all had it. If your tank is an Atwood you don't need an anode. Atwood only uses aluminum tanks. http://www.atwoodmobile.com/Products/water/elecignt.cfm


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

I use a combination anode rod/petcock valve in my water heater for ease in draining the water heater tank. Much easier to open the petcock than screw out/screw in that plastic plug all the time.


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