# Toyota Tundra Crewmax W/iforce 5.7



## flexdog1

I am considering stepping up from our Rockwood 2501SS (4,800 lbs dry; 25ft box; 28ft overall) which I used to pull with an Avalanche with a 5.3L V8. It did OK, but very happy to step up to the Tundra with 6spd tranny, 4:10 gears, lots of torque. Now we are considering trading the Rockwood for the NEW Outback 301BQ, which is about 7,000lbs dry and 34' long. Anyone towing an Outback with a Tundra and have any comments? On paper, I should be fine, as the Tundra is rated for 10,100 but just wondering how it will handle.


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## MJRey

That's a nice trailer but I would bet that when you're loaded up and ready to camp you'll be close to 9,000 lbs. That's still within the Tundras tow rating but make sure you're also good on the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) and Gross Combined Weight Ratings (GCWR). I've heard good reports of the Tundras towing ability but that's still a pretty large trailer and you'll need to have a good hitch setup.


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## flexdog1

Thanks MJRey - We will keep an eye on the weight. The cargo capacity of the 310BQ is only 1,210, so I hope we are not at 9,000 when we are loaded.
I am considering the Husky Centerline hitch to go with this rig....


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## MJRey

I had never heard of the Husky Centerline until you mentioned it. I looked it up and it looks like a variation the Equalizer brand design. As long as it's about the same price it should be a good hitch.


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## MJRey

I had never heard of the Husky Centerline until you mentioned it. I looked it up and it looks like a variation the Equalizer brand design. As long as it's about the same price it should be a good hitch.


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## Oregon_Camper

Hey...GREAT Outback...









Now, I'd steer away from "knock off" hitches. No reason to save a few bucks on one of the most important part of the whole towing game. Go Equalizer over the Husky Centerline.


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## W4DRR

FYI...
The CrewMax with the 5.7 comes with 4.30 gears, not 4.10.

Bob


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## Nathan

I'll give my usual posting. Even if the weights are in line, one thing you need to be thinking about is that you'll have a 35' sail behind you. A 3/4 ton suspension/chassis/brakes/powertrain does a lot better job handling driving situations with that much trailer behind you. I suspect you'll be looking for a truck upgrade shortly.


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## W4DRR

I might add, IMHO, that I wouldn't want to tow anything longer than 27-28' with a 1/2 ton, regardless of the make or model.
At least that is my $.02 worth.

Bob


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## flexdog1

Nathan...I am still cautious, because we put about 6-10k miles on the rig every year and I want to make sure we are safe and have a good driving experience. The Avalanche did OK with 28' sail behind it, and I believe the Tundra is a huge upgrade of a "truck" over the Avalanche. I didn't really worry too much about the sway, but did have some problems with the 5.3L and the 4spd tranny pulling the 5-6k lbs. We went to Yellowstone, Texas, Florida twice...it was all the Avalanche wanted. I am thinking about doing a test drive this week with the 301BQ and the Tundra. Thanks all for your contributions.
-scott


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## flexdog1

W4DRR said:


> I might add, IMHO, that I wouldn't want to tow anything longer than 27-28' with a 1/2 ton, regardless of the make or model.
> At least that is my $.02 worth.
> 
> Bob


Bob - looks like you are at Tundra owner too! I hear you.


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## Carey

Oregon_Camper said:


> Hey...GREAT Outback...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, I'd steer away from "knock off" hitches. No reason to save a few bucks on one of the most important part of the whole towing game. Go Equalizer over the Husky Centerline.


Husky isnt a knockoff company. They have a large plant in Elkhart, In. All of there products meets all federal and safety standards. They also do R&D there in Elkhart.

Reese, Husky, Curt, draw tite, etc. do offer a basic hitch that is made overseas(china). I dont know weather the centerline hitch is or not. Just takes a phone call.

Blue ox is also a stand alone company. There products are made just north of Omaha.

I use a reese pro series and I feel it blows away the equalizer hitch in every way. When I bought it nothing on it said made in china, but who knows. I do know I have given it one hell of a workout since I haul rvs for a living..

Carey


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## W4DRR

flexdog1 said:


> I might add, IMHO, that I wouldn't want to tow anything longer than 27-28' with a 1/2 ton, regardless of the make or model.
> At least that is my $.02 worth.
> 
> Bob


Bob - looks like you are at Tundra owner too! I hear you.
[/quote]

Don't get me wrong. I really like our Tundra, and it easily tows our 23RS. When it comes to towing capabilitiy it is one of the best, if not the best 1/2 ton out there. But it is a 1/2 ton nonetheless, and the laws of physics are still in force. I guess I am a little conservative when it comes to this. The Tundra will handle the trailer you are thinking about towing, but I would be very cautious, and take it slow and safe.

Bob


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## Carey

To add, the husky 25k 5er hitch is the number 1 hitch used by rv haulers. I bet that hitch has more miles on it than any other 5er hitch made..

Its one iron tough hitch.

So... Where is equalizer's 5er hitch? Yeah they dont offer one...

All of the brands except equalizer offer a full line of towing products. Yes equalizer specializes in just one hitch. Times have been tough for them, sales are way down. I hope they are still around in a year or two.

Mr. Reese started the wd hitch revolution in the 50's. The equalizer was brought about shortly after as competition. All of the other brands expanded. Equalizer didnt. Equalizer is a very small company now.

So use whatever, but as far as one w/d sway being better than someone elses, I say nope, in these times they have all been perfected to work equally. There is lots of ways to skin the w/d/sway hitch in design. In the end they all work very close to the same with there ability to control sway.

My point is its great to see you using one... As far as the brand, who cares. Any hitch including equalizer doesnt work unless the proper hitch set up has been done.

Get whatever hitch you like and spend an afternoon with its setup.. Youll be golden then.

Carey


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## Collinsfam_WY

I sure would be careful of the payload rating. The only complaint I have heard about the new Tundra's is that they dramatically increased the tow rating but the payload capacity did not increase along with it. It is very easy to surpass it once you add people, camping gear, bikes and all the other stuff along with the loaded tongue weight of the trailer. Keystone lists the tongue weight at 630lbs but it will be alot more than that after add propane and all the other "stuff" you will carry along with you.

-CC


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## flexdog1

Thanks to everyone for the great responses and interest.

I currently tow the Rockwood with a Reese Straighline Dual Cam WD hitch. It has been great and only occasionally when a big rig blows by do I get the sway and feel like I am getting "sucked in." I live in Central Indiana, and I see a great number of drivers who haul the RVs out of Northern Indiana traveling wihtout any WD or Anti-sway control. Of course they are professionals, and most of the time have a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.

Through all of the comments, I know I will be at the top of the rating for the payload of the truck and the towing ability. We have 2 kids and usually put the bikes in the back of the truck when going on our trips. So, with roughly 1300 lbs of payload (what I believe the CrewMax to be rated for) between people (500 lbs), toungue wieght (630+ propane, etc.), bikes, etc. I am there. Add to that the 8,000lb, 34' trailer and I am at the top of the rating range.

Good thing I am not a white-knuckled driver! I realize if I make this jump, I might very well be in the market for a Turbo Diesel or 3/4 Ton truck in the future.
Thanks all for the great feedback.


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## Carey

If you are getting some semi movement, you need to adjust the hitch head back at an angle more to tighten the load on the bars more.

I put my sway bars on for trailers that have rear kitchens or are around 30 feet. Yes I do tow larger ones without them when I do short runs.

Yes they are handfulls, with the feelings I get with a 1/2 towing a large trailer with no bars or a bad hitch setup.

Some of the larger 35footers are built to have good balance to add stability. Its funny, cause I have more trouble with trailers 28-34 feet than trailers 35 foot or longer.

Some of those 40 footers tow as nice as 5ers.

Carey


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## flexdog1

Colorado~DirtBikers said:


> If you are getting some semi movement, you need to adjust the hitch head back at an angle more to tighten the load on the bars more.
> 
> Carey


Carey,
What exactly do you mean with the above suggestion? I know I can adjust the angle of the hithc head (where the trailer sits on the ball) and can also go "one link tighter" on the sway bar linkage...I know this is really hard to do over email, but can you explain? This is really the only observation I have with the hitch set-up. Although going around corners in tighter campgrounds it tends to creak and pop as the bars move on the Cams.

Thanks,
-scott


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## Nathan

flexdog1 said:


> Thanks to everyone for the great responses and interest.
> 
> I currently tow the Rockwood with a Reese Straighline Dual Cam WD hitch. It has been great and only occasionally when a big rig blows by do I get the sway and feel like I am getting "sucked in." I live in Central Indiana, and I see a great number of drivers who haul the RVs out of Northern Indiana traveling wihtout any WD or Anti-sway control. Of course they are professionals, and most of the time have a 3/4 or 1 ton truck.
> 
> Through all of the comments, I know I will be at the top of the rating for the payload of the truck and the towing ability. We have 2 kids and usually put the bikes in the back of the truck when going on our trips. So, with roughly 1300 lbs of payload (what I believe the CrewMax to be rated for) between people (500 lbs), toungue wieght (630+ propane, etc.), bikes, etc. I am there. Add to that the 8,000lb, 34' trailer and I am at the top of the rating range.
> 
> Good thing I am not a white-knuckled driver! I realize if I make this jump, I might very well be in the market for a Turbo Diesel or 3/4 Ton truck in the future.
> Thanks all for the great feedback.


Ok, but plan on your tonge weight being closer to 1000 lbs. (Typically plan on 12-15% on weight)


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## Carey

The creaking is a good thing. You know your settings are tight and you have good preload on the bars. The hitch should be snapping and popping when going thru dips and around corners.

How far back is the hitch head angle right now? Like maybe what percentage is the head tilted at right now with zero standing straight up and 100 laid all the way back?

Carey


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## flexdog1

Carey,
I have to get the hitch from the trailer that is in storage. Let me do that this week and I will get back to you.
Thanks for the time and answers.
-scott


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## Carey

flexdog1 said:


> Carey,
> I have to get the hitch from the trailer that is in storage. Let me do that this week and I will get back to you.
> Thanks for the time and answers.
> -scott


Ok no problem. Just pm me or better, make a new post so we all can learn about your set up..

Take care, good chatting with ya.

Carey


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## Carey

Hey by the way.

Welcome to the forum! There are a bunch of real nice people here. You will fit right in!

Carey


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## Fellers

flexdog1,

I tow with a 08 Tundra Crewmax as well with roughly 1300+ lb payload. I originally had the Outback 23RS (~25ft in length) with a Equalizer and towed with no problems. I upgraded last year to a Outback 270 (~30ft in length) and while the Tundra has little problem towing it I do notice a bit more sway with the longer trailer. Getting the hitch dialed in was key and took some time and playing with on my first trip to get it right (brought along all the tools and stopped at the various rest stops to dial/try the different settings from the initial setup).

The setup feels pretty solid but one thing you will notice is the rear of the Tundra tends to sag with a full load. Me, the wife, and the 2 kids with the dogs and various camping supplies in the bed (smoker, wood if local, etc..) load it down and add up the weight quick. Then add the 700+ lb tongue. Its not on the bump stops or anything, but it is the first thing I noticed with the new trailer. I've tried to adjust the equalizer to load more towards the front of the TV but obviously you can only do so much (if I recall its 7 of the max 8 washers). Again the setup feels solid and I have done several long trips without feeling any control concerns.

I love the truck and use it as a daily commuter. That being said I am comtemplating going with Supersprings (had them on my previous Chevy and loved them) or airbags on the back just for a little more assistance when loading the truck so much. The Tundra will pull that trailer but you may notice more sway with the longer TT which a good hitch should help with. With a full load and all you'll probably see the rear end squat more than expected (of course that depends on your expectations)

Enjoy the new TT!

Feller


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## flexdog1

Fellers said:


> flexdog1,
> 
> I tow with a 08 Tundra Crewmax as well with roughly 1300+ lb payload. I originally had the Outback 23RS (~25ft in length) with a Equalizer and towed with no problems. I upgraded last year to a Outback 270 (~30ft in length) and while the Tundra has little problem towing it I do notice a bit more sway with the longer trailer. Getting the hitch dialed in was key and took some time and playing with on my first trip to get it right (brought along all the tools and stopped at the various rest stops to dial/try the different settings from the initial setup).
> 
> The setup feels pretty solid but one thing you will notice is the rear of the Tundra tends to sag with a full load. Me, the wife, and the 2 kids with the dogs and various camping supplies in the bed (smoker, wood if local, etc..) load it down and add up the weight quick. Then add the 700+ lb tongue. Its not on the bump stops or anything, but it is the first thing I noticed with the new trailer. I've tried to adjust the equalizer to load more towards the front of the TV but obviously you can only do so much (if I recall its 7 of the max 8 washers). Again the setup feels solid and I have done several long trips without feeling any control concerns.
> 
> I love the truck and use it as a daily commuter. That being said I am comtemplating going with Supersprings (had them on my previous Chevy and loved them) or airbags on the back just for a little more assistance when loading the truck so much. The Tundra will pull that trailer but you may notice more sway with the longer TT which a good hitch should help with. With a full load and all you'll probably see the rear end squat more than expected (of course that depends on your expectations)
> 
> Enjoy the new TT!
> 
> Feller


Feller - I popped for the 301BQ and will pick it up in the next couple weeks. I attached a picture of the set-up (done on a "test tow) without any WD or anything. I think I am going to get the airbags and inflate my tires before I tow on a long haul. Any pointers on how to "dial in" the hitch setup?
-scott


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## Fellers

[/quote]

Feller - I popped for the 301BQ and will pick it up in the next couple weeks. I attached a picture of the set-up (done on a "test tow) without any WD or anything. I think I am going to get the airbags and inflate my tires before I tow on a long haul. Any pointers on how to "dial in" the hitch setup?
-scott
[/quote]

Well I'm not to familiar with airbags... still deciding between that and Supersprings myself... but for the WD I basically just set up it per the instructions but used more washers to increase the angle. On my first real trip I would stop at rest stops and tried different ball heights settings (only 1 up/down off the initial setting). Basically I would set it and drive with it to see how it felt and did this until I felt the ball height looked good with the trailer loaded and felt good driving. Then after that I continued stopping every so often (still mostly every rest stop) would play with the height on the tension bars, adjusting the L-brakets on the trailer (I have an Equalizer hitch). I would drive between settings to see what felt most secure driving in highway traffic. Only once did I stop early to change the setting as their was too much tension in the bars and I could feel every little bump on the road back in the truck.

Yes it made for a longer trip initially, but gave me a bit more piece of mind knowing and help me feel what the different settings did to the truck and trailer while towing. I'm sure with airbags you would just add yet another setting into the mix. Also remember to do this with the trailer loaded as would normally travel... especially if you travel with the TT water tank full.

Hope that helps. Sweet looking truck and trailer!

Feller


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## Carey

Airbags will also allow you to adjust the wd bars on the go. If you add more air to the bags you will get more tension on the bars. If you drop the bags to say 5psi, your original settings will return.

I love air bags for this reason. When the wind crops up I add air till my trailer feels more secure by lifting the truck which changes the head angle and forces the bars to have more tension in them.

So having the air bags helps support your load, and allows you to play with the bar tension while on the move.

You will find that having these two new features makes air bags far superior to super springs.

I would bet that not one single person here has noticed this when running air bags..

If you got em, try it, you will feel quite a difference. Sometimes I go from my standard of say 30psi all the way to 70 to give myself more security over the trailer.

Carey


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## Carey

To add a bit more on this. I would get the truck level when hooked up with the air bags. Find the correct head angle that works along with having your truck level. Have the trailer sitting 1 inch lower in the front than the rear while having your truck level and having the correct bar tension and head angle.

Now when you get in a high wind condition or slick roads including rain. You can lift your truck by adding air which also gains you a good amount of pressure on the bars. Your trailer will be level while in these conditions. This will put your trailer in perfect balance in the bad weather.

Having a level trailer is optimum for bad weather. Having the trailer nose high is not good. Having the trailer slightly nose down will gain straight line stability while doing high speeds in good weather. Having the trailer slightly nose down in bad weather could affect trailer braking. The rear axle could skid easier than the front.

Hope this makes any since. This is what I do to get a trailer from point a to b safely in any weather condition. I use air bag pressure to change my trailer stability often.

This really works and is prolly a new way of towing to many. This is something I have learned while out here towing rv's for a living.

Carey


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## russlg

These videos might help some, I know it helped me when I set up my WD and Dual Cam setup.

Reese Weight Distributing Video

Reese Dual Cam Anti Sway Video


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## flexdog1

russlg said:


> These videos might help some, I know it helped me when I set up my WD and Dual Cam setup.
> 
> Reese Weight Distributing Video
> 
> Reese Dual Cam Anti Sway Video


Thanks Russlg! I just watched them and they are helpful!
-scott


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