# "reverse" Axel Flip



## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

I'm new this Forum, and was wondering if anyone could help me out with a question. Let me give you a little back ground:

We have a 2000 half ton Suburban, and last year we purchased a 2010 Outback 230RS (it carries the fresh water at the rear of the trailer, has a front cargo door that swings down, has a rear slide-out bed, is listed as having a exterior length of 27'3", and "shipping weight of #5390).

The problem is that the Outback sways quite a bit, and I can really feel the wind resistance. The trailer we had before this one was a 1996 Jayco that was 25' long , was somewhat lighter, lower, and really towed quite well. We purchased the Jayco new in 1996, towed it all over the United States, and never had any sway issues. We didn't even have to install a "friction" sway control, only weight equalizer bars. Our Outback is about a foot taller then our Jayco and I think this might be causing a problem. I've talked to several engineers I know and they told me the tailer height (ie: center of gravity) will have a large impact on how a trailer tows, and how the side loads are applied/the amount of sway that's felt. They also stated a fairly obvious fact, that the taller trailer will have more wind resistance. When we tow our Outback, we don't carry much weight in the cargo area (we purchased the trailer in this configuration so we could take our rather long tandem recumbent bicycle with us when we camp, and the bike and gear only weigh about #60), so the front area that would apply heavier tongue weight is loaded fairly lightly . When we first got our 230RS we'd fill the fresh water tank, but to try to help reduce the sway, and keep more weight forward, we've been running with the tank mostly empty and it still feels like it sways more then it should.

Now to get to what I'd like to do, and get your input on: I'd like to know if it's possible/practical to do a "Reverse" Axel Flip by putting the axels on top of the springs, instead of on the bottom? This would probably lower the trailer about 6". Or, could I use another type of axel such as a "Dura Flex"? I feel that lowering the trailer may accomplish the following items:

- Reduce the center of gravity, and reduce sway.
- Lower the trailer and reduce wind resistance.
- Reduce the height of the trailer and make it easier to level (sometimes the jacks are so extended the don't even reach the ground), and lower the rear bed slide so we call pull the bed out easier.

The Outback is really a lovely trailer, we love the floor plan, and the quality has been very high with no issues or problems...if we could only solve this one little issue I think it'd be perfect.

Thanks


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Should be no big issue but it would be a big pain to do it in your drive way. Do you want to do this yourself?


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## funbikerchick (Jun 6, 2011)

Regardless of what you do with lowering the trailer, I think you should seriously consider sway control as well for safety purposes.

I will say, I wonder why they put the water tank at the back. I have a 250RS and never travel with my fresh water full for this very reason.

I have that front cargo area too, but I don't carry bikes so I fill it pretty heavy and I am sure that helps my handling situation, but when I traveled (one time) with my fresh water tank full, I felt a bit like I was riding on a see saw.


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

Like aircraft, I suggest that you check the weight-and-balance. Fill the fresh tank, and haul off to the local truck scales. Call ahead to see when is a good time for your weigh-in, which will take maybe 20 minutes. Since you will be hitching and unhitching and moving the TT, best warn them.

Put the stuff in the TV that you normally travel with, like your kids and DW if you can get them to go along with you. Your and their weights do count. Include the motorcycle or bikes if you travel with them. Tools or luggage, or genset in the TV?

Now do all the weights of your setup. TV and TT, then the TV and TT alone, then hitch up and weigh the TT with your towing hitch all hooked up, etc., etc. 
I've even parked the TT unhitched with the wheels off the scales, and the front hitch stand on the scales. Gave me a good number for the actual hitch weight.

Compare the weights you get with the stickers on the TV and the TT. Got 12 - 15% of the TT weight on the hitch? Is the towing weight within the limits of the tow vehicle? And on and on.

That may help you identify mystery sway. When you say you don't carry much weight in the storage area at the front of the TT, and knowing that the fresh tank is in the rear (and may weigh 250 pounds or more loaded), that may be a clue--is the hitch weight 12 - 15% of the TT weight? If you do not have enough weight on the hitch, towing will be exciting and not in a fun way!

Good luck and let us know what happens.


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## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

Thanks for your input. I'd like to do the axle swap myself but I know it would be a really big heavy job. What scares me most about a modification like this is will it work, and will it be worth it. That's why I wanted to see if just maybe somebody has already done it.

I think the best approach is start at one end of the problem, and that would be to do the weight and balance like "hautevue" suggested. I have a couple of questions about the tongue weight measurements:

- Where do I go to do this? What kind of truck scale would I go to?
- Do they charge?
- What is the procedure? I understand loading the trailer...do I then weigh everything...tow vehicle and all? Do I unhitch the trailer, weight it (tongue and all)...unhook it and then weigh just the tongue? Then calculate the percentage? Is there someplace (maybe as an archive on this forum) that will spell out this procedure for me? I was actually considering a down and dirty way to simulate increasing the tongue weight. I have an old Gravely walk behind tractor that I think comes in at around #400. I was just going to drive it up the ramp, strap it down and see how it towed.

I'm not sure why they placed the water tank in the back but I think it was to help offset any heavy load that would be placed in the front "garage" area. If you had a big Harley strapped down in the garage you would probably appreciate the weight of the water in the back. Another problem with the water...if it's full it doesn't move around, but if it is half full it sloshes back and forth from side to side and you can feel it. They should have put it in center of the trailer...our old Jayco's water tank was right over the axles.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

My first thought about the practicality of the axle flip is; will there be sufficient clearance above the tires for suspension travel. You would want to do some careful measuring to make sure a tire wouldn't contact the underside of the floor when the suspension is at full travel.

As for the placement of the water tank, on the 250RS there weren't any real alternatives. The slide hardware is in the middle of the trailer, and the black and grey tanks are towards the front. On the 230RS there may have been the option of putting the tank a little farther forward, but the bottom line is tank weights are a big variable that have to be considered when loading the trailer. I also try to keep as little water as practical in the tank when we travel. Maybe you can keep some more heavy items, such as soda and beer, in the front garage, to help the balance.

I agree some sort of sway control would be a smart addition for safety, but that aside, the trailer shouldn't want to sway in the first place.


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## #40Fan (Jul 7, 2011)

Load up your truck and trailer with everything that you would normally take with you.

Cat Scales

Click on the link and find a scale close to you.

Pull on the scales with the TT and TV hooked together with the WDH bars snapped up. Have them print the weight. Unhook the WDH bars and have them print the weight. Find a spot to park the trailer, unhook it, and go to the scales one last time with just the truck. Print the weight.

You might want to do this whole thing twice. Once with the FW tank full and one without.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

In my opinion, one of the big drawbacks to the older Outbacks was that they sat too low to the ground. The axle flip to put the leaf springs on TOP of the axle has been done by some, but it's not for the faint of heart. Our 10th Anniversary edition sits about 8 inches higher than our 2008 28RSDS did and I think the pro's outweigh the con's. The black and gray tanks empty much better, it's easier to crawl under the trailer for whatever reason, and I haven't noticed any difference in towing characteristics. Maybe an investment in a good anti-sway setup is all that's needed?


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## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

Thanks for the help. A few particulars:

To "duggy": I hear you about not enough room under the trailer for the wheels to clear. What I've been told is that one of the reasons Outback went to this "new" design was so they could use the same floor/frame on all their trailers, so the floor is flat, with no wheel wells intruding into the trailer floor. Slide-out trailers and non slide-out trailers get the same frame. Good observation on what is underneath the trailer ie: tank locations. I also toyed with trying to put the water tank in the front of the trailer, but that would be a entirely different thread on this Forum. However, I did remove the spare tire from the rear of the TT (I bet it weights a hundred pounds) and just don't carry it. I've been wanting to put it in the front of the trailer. We went camping last week and saw a couple of TT's with the spare attached to the frame underneath the propane tanks. That should help increase the tongue.

To "#40 Fan": I looked up the scales on the link you provided and two of them are very close. So no problem there. However, I'm a little confused about how to figure the tongue weight. Here's the point that I'm hung-up on...If I weight the entire TV and TT hooked together with the WDB (weight distribution bars) hooked up, then I unhook the bars and do a weight check, won't I be getting the same reading? Does the scale know how much weight is on each axel?

To "Insomniak": Good info about raising your trailer, and very interesting you didn't notice a difference in the towing qualities. It would be a huge job, and I wouldn't want to do it unless I was pretty certain I would see a pretty significant benefit, and I'm beginning to feel there would not be enough benefit.

A couple more points:

I am using a "sway bar"...it's a friction type and you increase the amount of sway control by turning the lever and making the pad rub harder on the bar. What type of sway control should I be using. I looked at the "Hensley Hitch", but I've talked to several people that say they are difficult to us when hooking up you trailer, and they don't make that big of difference...also...they are very expensive. However, if I knew it was going to solve the problem the money wouldn't scare me off.

Thanks again for all your help.


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## julie (Aug 10, 2010)

Do you have a trailer brake control? This solved a lot of our sway problems, that and not filling the fresh water tank until we get closer to out destination.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Stone859 said:


> Thanks for the help. A few particulars:
> 
> To "duggy": I hear you about not enough room under the trailer for the wheels to clear. What I've been told is that one of the reasons Outback went to this "new" design was so they could use the same floor/frame on all their trailers, so the floor is flat, with no wheel wells intruding into the trailer floor. Slide-out trailers and non slide-out trailers get the same frame. Good observation on what is underneath the trailer ie: tank locations. I also toyed with trying to put the water tank in the front of the trailer, but that would be a entirely different thread on this Forum. However, I did remove the spare tire from the rear of the TT (I bet it weights a hundred pounds) and just don't carry it. I've been wanting to put it in the front of the trailer. We went camping last week and saw a couple of TT's with the spare attached to the frame underneath the propane tanks. That should help increase the tongue.
> 
> ...


The truck scales I use have three separate sections that weigh independently - yours will probably be the same. I drive the truck/trailer combo onto two of the segments so that the trailer tires are on the back section and the truck with the tongue is on the middle part. I have them weigh the entire setup, then I disconnect the truck. The tongue gets lowered onto the middle section and the trailer tires are on the back section, and they weigh both of those sections. The middle portion gives me the tongue weight and the rear section gives the weight of the rest of the trailer. Add the two together and you have the total trailer weight. Subtract the total trailer weight from the combined truck/trailer weight and you have the weight of the truck. I don't bother with the WD bars because there's usually impatient truckers waiting, and it's not that important to me to know just how much weight the bars are transferring. If the truck is level and tows well, that's good enough for me.

I think most would say that a friction sway bar is not enough for the 230RS. Look into the Equalizer or Reese Dual Cam and you'll be a much happier camper!


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## #40Fan (Jul 7, 2011)

Stone859 said:


> To "#40 Fan": I looked up the scales on the link you provided and two of them are very close. So no problem there. However, I'm a little confused about how to figure the tongue weight. Here's the point that I'm hung-up on...If I weight the entire TV and TT hooked together with the WDB (weight distribution bars) hooked up, then I unhook the bars and do a weight check, won't I be getting the same reading? Does the scale know how much weight is on each axel?


Yes, with the trailer and truck connected, with the WDH hooked and unhooked, you will have the same GCVW (Gross (total) Combined Vehicle Weight). Unhooking the WDH will give you more weights.

Doing it the way that I described will give you every weight that you will need. Two most important is trailer tongue and front truck axle. It will tell you whether you have the WDH adjusted properly too!

Come back and post the weights and we can show you what weighs what.


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## #40Fan (Jul 7, 2011)

Say for instance, your truck weighs 7000 lbs. 4000 lbs are carried by the front axle and the other 3000 lbs. by the rear. Now you hook the trailer up without the WDH and you now have 4000 lbs. on the rear axle, but only 3700 lbs. on the front. You know your tongue weight is 1000 lbs. With the WDH hooked up, you should be back to/or close to the 4000 lbs. front axle number. Too much on the front and you have your bars too tight. Too little weight back on the front, they are too loose. Removing too much weight from the front of the truck could cause poor driving just as much as not having enough tongue weight.


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## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

I just went down and checked out the CAT Scales first hand to see how they work...yes there are three sections. It cost about $10. 00 for the first measurement, and $1.00 for each additional reading.

I just want to make sure I do this right so this is what I plan on doing;

1) Put entire rig (loaded with water) on the scale with WD hooked up: front wheel on front section, rear wheels of Suburban on middle, and trailer on rear..get reading.
2) Unhook, lower tongue on center section, and weigh again.
3) Unload water and reattach WD bars. Again weigh rig like #1
4) Unhook WD bars and trailer. Place tongue on center section and get weight.

I know it'll be a pain in the butt, but I want the raw data. Once I get these numbers, I'll let you know what they are. Any suggestions?


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Stone859 said:


> I just went down and checked out the CAT Scales first hand to see how they work...yes there are three sections. It cost about $10. 00 for the first measurement, and $1.00 for each additional reading.
> 
> I just want to make sure I do this right so this is what I plan on doing;
> 
> ...


Go on a weekend or ask the scale operator what time would be best - you're gonna be there a long time. I'm not certain that the water / no water thing will tell you a whole lot compared to your dry readings. You know that the fresh water tank holds 40 gallons, or 320lb. Full, you should be transferring 12-15% or 32-48lb to the tongue and with the WD bars connected, only a fraction of that to the Suburban. I guess if you want a lot of numbers, go for it. It may be interesting to see if the rear water tank actually decreases your tongue weight significantly when full. I'm betting a good anti-sway setup will take care of any issues.


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## #40Fan (Jul 7, 2011)

There isn't a need for lowering the tongue jack. (unless you need to take some weight off of the tongue to remove the WDH bars)

If I were you....

1. Trailer and Suburban hooked together with WDH attached. Trailer full of water. Weigh.

2. Jump out and unhook WDH. Weigh.

3. Hook up the WDH and drive off of the scale.

Unload water if you want and repeat.

4. Unhook trailer completely from your Suburban and weigh it by itself.


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## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

Just got back from the scales weighing our 201O 230RS. The factory gives the "shipping" weight of #5,390, and "hitch" weight of #520. It wasn't too bad an experience, and interesting obtaining the data. The scales have three sections, I took three measurements, all were taken with water tank empty, and the trailer loaded like we would travel. The only exception was the fridge was empty (the fridge pretty much sets over the axels), and the front cargo area was loaded like we'd load it when we travel. However, I didn't bother packing our bicycle because it only weighs about #50. Here are the weights:

1) Suburban and trailer weighed on separate sections. The Suburban came in at #5,680, trailer tongue was #620, and trailer axels totaled #5,280. Total #11,580.

2) Measurement with trailer and truck hooked together and weight distribution (W/D) connected and tensioned. The truck's front axel was #2,800, rear axel #3,200, and the trailer's axels were #5,420. Total #11,420.

3) Measurement with trailer and truck hooked together but W/D disconnected. The measurements were: The truck's front axel was #2,640, rear axel #3,640, and the trailer's axels were #5,300. Total #11,580.

Now what does this mean? First, I think the Outback sales brochure weight numbers are pretty close to what I got in actuality. Secondly, if you look closely you'll notice there's a #160 discrepancy between the totals listed on 1 & 3, and what the total was on 2. I think this is because of where I was standing when the measurements were taken. I can't recall specifically (I was busy trying to get what I need to get done, done) where I was standing but I think a #160 could be added to the front axel of the second measurement (I actually weigh #180, but pretty close ). Thirdly, I don't know what to think, and would like for somebody to help try to make sense of this info.

Thanks


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Weights on two and three make sense.

With the weight distribution connected you are moving 160 pounds to the front axle compared to when the WDH is not loaded. You are also removing 440 from the rear axle when the WDH is loaded. The only measurement extra I would have asked for is the TV axles with nothing connected to see how the tongue weight was affecting things with and without WDH.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

CamperAndy said:


> Weights on two and three make sense.
> 
> With the weight distribution connected you are moving 160 pounds to the front axle compared to when the WDH is not loaded. You are also removing 440 from the rear axle when the WDH is loaded. The only measurement extra I would have asked for is the TV axles with nothing connected to see how the tongue weight was affecting things with and without WDH.


x2. it's obvious the WD hitch is transferring weight, question is Is it the appropriate amount. One thing missing from the weight measurements is the tow vehicle front axle load with and without the trailer hooked up with WD. Since you probably don't want to go back to the scales, next best thing is to measure the front ride height for 3 cases.

Case 1) with the tow vehicle empty measure from the ground to a reference point on the front fender such as the top fo the fender well.
case 2) with the tow vehicle loaded for a trip, including passengers etc. and the trailer hooked up, w/o weight distribution repeat the front ride height measurement
case 3) with the tow vehicle loaded for a trip as in case 2 and trailer hooked up WITH Wd, again measure front ride height.

Ideally, Case 3 will give you the same ride height as case 1. that means the WD hitch is transferring what most recomendations are for weight. Worst case, measurement for case 3 should be at least midway between case 1 and case 3.

My experience from helping several folks do a WD setup on Expeditions is that they THOUGHT they had bad cases of trailer sway. WRONG, WRONG, the REAL problem was not transferring enough weight to the tow vehicle front axle. That unloaded the front axle and combined with the high rear axle weight turned the tow vehicle from an understeering vehicle to an oversteering vehicle. the tail was wagging the dog and the tow vehicle wandered because as you corrected it wanted to oversteer. I suspect your 1/2 ton 'burb is going to be similar to an expedition. Once set up with the front axle back to unloaded height problem completely disappeared. One guy was ready to sell his exepedition, and after I set it up he called after going about 50 miles on a road that gave him fits and said " you saved me from buying a new truck or selling my trailer!!"

IMHO this is more of a problem on SUV's than 3/4 ton trucks because of the softer suspension causing more load transfer to the back of the tow vehicle.

My recomendation is to make sure the front end ride height is back to unloaded height and see if you still have a problem. In most cases you don't want front ride height loaded to be less than unloaded. the reasons are (a) to make sure your not overloading the front axle and (







many vehicles now have a secondary snubber of some kind as a bump stop that starts working not much below std ride height. you don't want to be compressing the snubber excessively. I think your suburban is one of the vehicles with such a snubber. I know Chevy 3/4 ton and 1 ton trucks have a heavy urethane snubber bump stop.

And lastly make sure rear ride height with WD is not higher than unloaded. Although I seriously doubt that will be the case. More likely it will be 1-2 inches below unloaded, and that's ok if the front axles is back to stock ride height.


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## JimandDeb (Apr 13, 2010)

I don't know what sway is since I got a Husky Centerline
Hitch. Does not use friction to stop any sway. They are
Fairly cheap $600 compared to other non friction anti sway
Systems. The problem with friction types is that you must
sway for them to work
Good luck

ote name='Insomniak' date='18 August 2011 - 04:12 PM' timestamp='1313701954' post='414490']


Stone859 said:


> I just went down and checked out the CAT Scales first hand to see how they work...yes there are three sections. It cost about $10. 00 for the first measurement, and $1.00 for each additional reading.
> 
> I just want to make sure I do this right so this is what I plan on doing;
> O
> ...


Go on a weekend or ask the scale operator what time would be best - you're gonna be there a long time. I'm not certain that the water / no water thing will tell you a whole lot compared to your dry readings. You know that the fresh water tank holds 40 gallons, or 320lb. Full, you should be transferring 12-15% or 32-48lb to the tongue and with the WD bars connected, only a fraction of that to the Suburban. I guess if you want a lot of numbers, go for it. It may be interesting to see if the rear water tank actually decreases your tongue weight significantly when full. I'm betting a good anti-sway setup will take care of any issues.
[/quote]


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## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

I purchased and just installed a "Equal-i-zer" hitch system. Taking the trailer and driving it 10 to 15 miles, I believe I noticed quite a difference. It hasn't made the trailer any lighter, and hasn't reduced the wind resistance, however, it appears to have reduced sway considerably. The tailer feels much more predictable, and the towing characteristics are much more stable. For instance, on the Interstate, when a large trucks now passes I can feel it but the feel is more solid, as thought the trailer and Suburban are one solid unit. Before this installation, if I was going down the road at 45 to 55 MPH and made a sudden movement with the steering wheel the trailer felt like it had a mind of its' own. Now, when I do this, I get a little movement, and can still feel the weight, but I get a solid connected feeling,. Another observation, before when I was going around a sweeping turn (entrance and exit ramp on the Interstate) the steering on the TV was very touchy but now it feels much more predictable...it doesn't feel like the trailer is pushing the back end of the Suburban arround. All in all I think this was something I needed. Thanks for the information.


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## Tangooutback (Apr 16, 2010)

I have a 2005 25RSS and my problem was exactly the other way around. The trailer sat too low to ground with little clearance. I spent $500 for parts and labor to flip the trailer axle with an axle flip kit plus an EZ Flex suspension kit. Both kits were built by Dexter. The trailer is now about six inches higher than it used to be. I have the friction sway control but never had the need to use it. The trailer is actually much better now in handling after it was raised 6" higher. I have never towed with the water tank filled up to know if that would cause any issue.

I once forgot to install the two equalizer bars to the tow hitch and I immediately noticed the sway. Once I pulled over and put the two equalizer bars on, the sway no longer existed.


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## funbikerchick (Jun 6, 2011)

duggy said:


> My first thought about the practicality of the axle flip is; will there be sufficient clearance above the tires for suspension travel. You would want to do some careful measuring to make sure a tire wouldn't contact the underside of the floor when the suspension is at full travel.
> 
> As for the placement of the water tank, on the 250RS there weren't any real alternatives. The slide hardware is in the middle of the trailer, and the black and grey tanks are towards the front. On the 230RS there may have been the option of putting the tank a little farther forward, but the bottom line is tank weights are a big variable that have to be considered when loading the trailer. I also try to keep as little water as practical in the tank when we travel. Maybe you can keep some more heavy items, such as soda and beer, in the front garage, to help the balance.
> 
> I agree some sort of sway control would be a smart addition for safety, but that aside, the trailer shouldn't want to sway in the first place.


I think a better design would have been to put the black and grey tanks at the back and the fresh at the front. This is how my Jayco was configured. For me, I am much more likely to travel with fresh than I am with dirty.

Tena


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## PITA (Jul 7, 2010)

I have the same trailer, tow it with my half ton with one stabilizer, sometimes with motorcycle up front, sometimes without. Never had sway issues, so I suspect the axle swap isn't your problem.


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## Stone859 (Aug 14, 2011)

Thanks for the reply PITA (and thanks for everyone that replied). I'm just wondering how much your motorcycle weights? I believe one of our issues is that we travel with a light load up front (a tandem recumbent bicycle that's weight is about 60# soaking wet). I'd be curious to know how your rig would feel if you towed with a full water tank and didn't pack you motorcycle. Actually, when we went to the "Equalizer" hitch, and leave the fresh water tank mostly empty, it tows fairly well. I want to try putting several hundred pounds of weight in the garage and see how it does...I really think that is what it needs. I think these things are designed to towed loaded-up.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

funbikerchick said:


> As for the placement of the water tank, on the 250RS there weren't any real alternatives. The slide hardware is in the middle of the trailer, and the black and grey tanks are towards the front. On the 230RS there may have been the option of putting the tank a little farther forward, but the bottom line is tank weights are a big variable that have to be considered when loading the trailer. I also try to keep as little water as practical in the tank when we travel. Maybe you can keep some more heavy items, such as soda and beer, in the front garage, to help the balance.


I think a better design would have been to put the black and grey tanks at the back and the fresh at the front. This is how my Jayco was configured. For me, I am much more likely to travel with fresh than I am with dirty.

Tena
[/quote]

From what I can figure, they put the tanks where they make the most sense for the layout. If the head is in the back, the black tank will be in the back. Our last TT had the tanks in the opposite order compared to our Outback, and the interior layout was basically reversed as well. I chuckle at my DW when she refers to the front of our trailer, as the back, and vice versa. She's still thinking of the last TT.


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

Stone859 said:


> I purchased and just installed a "Equal-i-zer" hitch system. Taking the trailer and driving it 10 to 15 miles, I believe I noticed quite a difference. It hasn't made the trailer any lighter, and hasn't reduced the wind resistance, however, it appears to have reduced sway considerably. The tailer feels much more predictable, and the towing characteristics are much more stable. For instance, on the Interstate, when a large trucks now passes I can feel it but the feel is more solid, as thought the trailer and Suburban are one solid unit. Before this installation, if I was going down the road at 45 to 55 MPH and made a sudden movement with the steering wheel the trailer felt like it had a mind of its' own. Now, when I do this, I get a little movement, and can still feel the weight, but I get a solid connected feeling,. Another observation, before when I was going around a sweeping turn (entrance and exit ramp on the Interstate) the steering on the TV was very touchy but now it feels much more predictable...it doesn't feel like the trailer is pushing the back end of the Suburban arround. All in all I think this was something I needed. Thanks for the information.


I realize this post is somewhat old but I thought it appropriate to comment: I purchased a "4-point Equalizer Hitch " with the purchase of my 210RS. No chains to adjust as this system is quite different from that type. I totally agree with Stone859 that the TT and TV become one with this system. I have driven over 7300 miles with this new setup. It is the best wheight distribution and anti-sway system I have ever owned. I will NOT be going back to chains. NOTE: One of the nice features with the system is that it can follow me should I purchase a larger TT. If the weight of the trailer increases all I need do is buy bigger springs for the hitch and viola... I'm ready to go.


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