# Flimsy Bottom Skirting, Weld Small Braces To Frame?



## slman (Jan 21, 2012)

My bottom skirting is cracked from wind stress, no frame to skirting braces for long runs of the plastic? skirting.
I plan to weld some thin but ample supports and use metal roofing screws to beef up a poor design, any other ideas or fixes by great owners i found on this site?

Also, before I arc weld, the main beams I surmise are steel, not aluminum, and also for some strange ideas in my head....will disconnect the battery cables so no strange power surges won't fry the electronic brains in my trailer controls.


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## Joe/GA (Aug 14, 2009)

Welcome slman! I don't know of anyone else welding braces for skirting, but you might want to perform a search. Good idea about disconnecting battery cables. I would also position your welder ground cable close to where you are welding so the current path is minimal. Post pics when you are done!


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

I think I'd avoid welding anything directly to the trailer. I don't know what year of trailer you have, but my 2011 has a steel frame with steel cross members. The bottom rib of the members is a thin 1/8 inch. Self drilling screws wind in quite easily with a power driver. You may need access for repairs, and it would be much easier to remove the supports, if they were screwed on. Also be very careful where you screw in. There are three plastic tanks that are supported by the cross members. If you wind a screw in there, you will have big problems.

Be careful!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

To reinforce the skirting use 3/4" aluminum angle screwed to the lip of the skirt. I would not weld to the frame but that is up to you. Post pictures of the finished product.


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## slman (Jan 21, 2012)

CamperAndy said:


> To reinforce the skirting use 3/4" aluminum angle screwed to the lip of the skirt. I would not weld to the frame but that is up to you. Post pictures of the finished product.


Thank you all, I will weld and fabricate an 'arm' brace and use as we called 'zinger' stainless steel screws (self tapping) to hold the brace I made into place.
That Idea of running 3/4 Aluminum Angle all along the bottom,THEN attaching my brace to it,.. is a good idea.
Arc welding produces alot of heat, One of those low amp. harbor freight wire welders would be more idea if I was to weld to the 1/8 inch 'I' main beam. I also will start a back side repair of the cracked plastic skirting with ABS glue and fiberglass mess screen repair. Pouring rain in Oregon and being temp. one armed recently have made me a bit wimpy to crawl around in the gravel, but will post pics of project when I really get into it.

By the way, love my tall steel RV cover, as it makes the worry factor of leaks, just about zero, of course till we snowbird in a Spring Arizona Monsoon when I retire next year. I will deal with a good scrub and 'Dicor' caulking when things are warmer and dryer (and more able)
So much to do on a used somewhat neglected trailer, but paying 10k for a 2007 Outback has it's price. A bit of handy work for the next year is necessary to make it leak and bed rail falling from the ceiling free. This trailer we just purchased was previously owned by a Marine Stationed in the Hot Dry of A Nevada Military Base, So not exposed to much rain, but the brutal sun on the roof is why it will get treatment this warm spring.
You folks are great!


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

I picked up some stock aluminum strips from Lowes and some self tappers. I installed them in 4 different locations that were lacking support and I am good to go. I can't see where welding is necessary. The lower skirting isn't there to provide strength, just cosmetic. It is a shame though that Keystone didn't take the 10 minutes I did to add $1 worth of material to keep the skirting from flapping in the breeze. 
Steve


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## slman (Jan 21, 2012)

therink said:


> I picked up some stock aluminum strips from Lowes and some self tappers. I installed them in 4 different locations that were lacking support and I am good to go. I can't see where welding is necessary. The lower skirting isn't there to provide strength, just cosmetic. It is a shame though that Keystone didn't take the 10 minutes I did to add $1 worth of material to keep the skirting from flapping in the breeze.
> Steve


A bit not proud of the 5" split on the skirt, but will try steves' idea first and see if that'll do it.

thank you much


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

I've had thought on this myself. My original idea was to take 1/2" or 3/4" EMT conduit of the right length to stretch across the frame from side to side to make braces. The concept was to take my hand sledge and smash each end flat. I would then remove the screws that attach the liner every few feet, drill holes to match in the conduit and install the conduit up against the frame with the liner screws. the tubular cross section of the conduit should make it strong enough to hold up the liner


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## Trucker Lou (Nov 27, 2011)

slman said:


> I picked up some stock aluminum strips from Lowes and some self tappers. I installed them in 4 different locations that were lacking support and I am good to go. I can't see where welding is necessary. The lower skirting isn't there to provide strength, just cosmetic. It is a shame though that Keystone didn't take the 10 minutes I did to add $1 worth of material to keep the skirting from flapping in the breeze.
> Steve


A bit not proud of the 5" split on the skirt, but will try steves' idea first and see if that'll do it.

thank you much
[/quote]
slman, I had similar problem made braces 1/8x1/2 alum strips bent and twisted between outriggers&bottom of skirt. drill tiny hole at end of skirt split and pop rivet a doubler panel behind the crack area.----Lou---


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## slman (Jan 21, 2012)

Trucker Lou said:


> I picked up some stock aluminum strips from Lowes and some self tappers. I installed them in 4 different locations that were lacking support and I am good to go. I can't see where welding is necessary. The lower skirting isn't there to provide strength, just cosmetic. It is a shame though that Keystone didn't take the 10 minutes I did to add $1 worth of material to keep the skirting from flapping in the breeze.
> Steve


A bit not proud of the 5" split on the skirt, but will try steves' idea first and see if that'll do it.

thank you much
[/quote]
slman, I had similar problem made braces 1/8x1/2 alum strips bent and twisted between outriggers&bottom of skirt. drill tiny hole at end of skirt split and pop rivet a doubler panel behind the crack area.----Lou---
[/quote]


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## slman (Jan 21, 2012)

eight foot length of aluminum ''L'' stick beefed up the flimsy siding bottom, and made a 'strut' bracket, but broke 3 drill bits trying to pilot drill into side of my Outback Main Frame Member, to attach the strut. Will be shopping for a super hard bit.
These frame beams are made of some hard steel, even broke hardened 'zinger screws', ....as hard as spring steel


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