# Tundra/husky Wight Distribution/25rss



## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

I just moved up to a 5.7 l dbl cab tundra (from a v8 4 runner) and was attempting to setup my husky weight distribution hitch. Simple bar and chain setup. Trailer is a 25 rss, and I tow dry most of the time. The instructions state to set the ball height 1/16 above the hitch height for every 100 lbs of hitch weight. This would put the ball about .25-.5 above the hitch. I could not find a position on the ball reciever close to that. I was either .5" low or 1" or so high. I figured the 1" hight was better, does this sound right? I also used (with the 4 runner) to have 6 links between the bar and the trailer, now I have 5 (which is the minimun) and the back squats about 1" more than the front. Looks good, but it seems strange I have to go to the minimum links. Is this becuase my ball starts out so much higher than the hitch? Any suggestions?

I'm going to tow with the husky a few more times, but I'm pretty close to just ordering a equalizer brand hitch.


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

We also just recently upgraded from a 4Runner to a 2009 Tundra CrewMax 4x4, and have a Husky WD hitch. Initially, the only thing I have done is lower the ball mount by one bolt hole position, because the Tundra was a little higher. I am still running it with 5 links, as I did before with the 4Runner. I did measure before and after, when hitching up, and I am pushing the back down more than the front. BUT....both yours and my Outback don't have enough tongue weight to really get too excited about. As a matter of fact, based on our first towing experience with the Tundra, I believe I could probably get away with removing the weight bars altogether. But it you want to get more weight to the front, you will have to change the ball mount angle to a more downward setting. With these type of hitches, it all about the angle between the TV and the trailer. By raising the hitch, you will get less transfer of weight, and have to adjust the angle accordingly. And if you lower the hitch, it will be the opposite. You didn't mention how much you moved the hitch up or down from the original 4Runner setup. I will probably tinker with mine before the next outing, and lower the angle a little and try it again. But again, given the size of our respective trailers and their relatively low tongue weight, the adjustment isn't that critical, and as long as you get some of the weight transferred to the front, you are probably OK.
At least that is my $.02 worth, and others may disagree.

Bob


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## folsom_five (Jan 10, 2008)

If I had the choice of .5" low or 1" high, I would choose the .5" low. You do not want to be towing with the front of the trailer higher than the rear, that can lead to a greater tendancy to sway. Where ever you end up setting your ball height, just make sure your trailer is sitting level or slightly nose down.


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## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

folsom_five said:


> If I had the choice of .5" low or 1" high, I would choose the .5" low. You do not want to be towing with the front of the trailer higher than the rear, that can lead to a greater tendancy to sway. Where ever you end up setting your ball height, just make sure your trailer is sitting level or slightly nose down.


Trailer is level as can be. The 1" high I was refering to is when they are un hitched, and the trailer is set to be level with the ground. Once I put the trialer on the truck and attach the bars, the trailer is level again, the back of the truck squats an inch or so, and the front of the truck is in the same position as unloaded.

I have not tried adjusting the tilt, as I do not have any additional washers, I'll have to go get some more to try that. I'm not sure how much it dropped from the 4 runner. When it was on the 4 runner, the reciver was turned so it pointed up, and the hitch was at the lowest setting. Now it's turned so the reciver points down, and it's in the middle or so (at home so I can't see it now).


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

That is a good point folsom_five mentioned. Above all, make sure when you are done, the trailer rides level. Not just from a sway/handling aspect, but also the unequal stresses it can put on the trailer suspension, tires, and brakes, when not level. But sounds like you already have the leveling situation in control.









Bob


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## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

W4DRR said:


> That is a good point folsom_five mentioned. Above all, make sure when you are done, the trailer rides level. Not just from a sway/handling aspect, but also the unequal stresses it can put on the trailer suspension, tires, and brakes, when not level. But sounds like you already have the leveling situation in control.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Bob. When you attach the bars, are they relatively level? Did you adjust the hitch tilt so they were level, are do they angle upwards? Mine are pretty level at 6 links, but angle up at 5, do I need adjust the hitch angle?

Probably overthinking this thing......


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## wolfwood (Sep 19, 2005)

*ckibbe & W4DRR,* I can't help you with the hitch thing - we have a Hensley - but I can CONGRATULATE you both on your moves from the 4R to the Tundra. We made exactly the same move (had a 25rss at the time) and WE WERE THRILLED!!!! The Tundra didn't even know the 25rss was back there (it hardly recognizes the 28krs, now). You are going to LOVE the towing experience - GOOD ON YOU!!!


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

ckibbe said:


> That is a good point folsom_five mentioned. Above all, make sure when you are done, the trailer rides level. Not just from a sway/handling aspect, but also the unequal stresses it can put on the trailer suspension, tires, and brakes, when not level. But sounds like you already have the leveling situation in control.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Bob. When you attach the bars, are they relatively level? Did you adjust the hitch tilt so they were level, are do they angle upwards? Mine are pretty level at 6 links, but angle up at 5, do I need adjust the hitch angle?

Probably overthinking this thing......
[/quote]

Mine angles upward on 5 links. Yes, the manual indicates the bars should be level, but the number of links pretty much determines that (chain is not adjustable). They recommend at least 5 links; any fewer and things could break in a tight turn. Once you decide on how many links, then adjusting the head angle will increase or decrease the amount of weight transfer. The number of links and the head angle are interacting adjustments. In other words, different combinations of angle and links will achieve the same amount of transfer. Bottom line: If your trailer is sitting level, and you are achieving some amount of weight transfer to the front (but not more than the rear), and you have 5 or more links, you are fine.
And something else to think about...
Most instructions for WD hitches say to set for equal drop on the front as on the rear, and this will achieve equal weight distribution. But with my 4Runner, the front suspension was stiffer than the rear, so I didn't go for equal drop. I haven't verified this with the new Tundra yet. A crude way to measure this, while unhitched simply sit on the rear of your truck and measure the drop, and then sit on the front end and measure the drop. The ratio of the measured drops will then tell you how to divide the drop between front and rear with the trailer hitched. Of course, if you are gravitationally challenged, such as myself, then you will be putting a significant amount of weight on the front and rear, to make the test more accurate. If you are not, then get a couple of friends to help....preferrably fat ones.









Bob


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## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

W4DRR said:


> That is a good point folsom_five mentioned. Above all, make sure when you are done, the trailer rides level. Not just from a sway/handling aspect, but also the unequal stresses it can put on the trailer suspension, tires, and brakes, when not level. But sounds like you already have the leveling situation in control.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks, Bob. When you attach the bars, are they relatively level? Did you adjust the hitch tilt so they were level, are do they angle upwards? Mine are pretty level at 6 links, but angle up at 5, do I need adjust the hitch angle?

Probably overthinking this thing......
[/quote]

Mine angles upward on 5 links. Yes, the manual indicates the bars should be level, but the number of links pretty much determines that (chain is not adjustable). They recommend at least 5 links; any fewer and things could break in a tight turn. Once you decide on how many links, then adjusting the head angle will increase or decrease the amount of weight transfer. The number of links and the head angle are interacting adjustments. In other words, different combinations of angle and links will achieve the same amount of transfer. Bottom line: If your trailer is sitting level, and you are achieving some amount of weight transfer to the front (but not more than the rear), and you have 5 or more links, you are fine.
And something else to think about...
Most instructions for WD hitches say to set for equal drop on the front as on the rear, and this will achieve equal weight distribution. But with my 4Runner, the front suspension was stiffer than the rear, so I didn't go for equal drop. I haven't verified this with the new Tundra yet. A crude way to measure this, while unhitched simply sit on the rear of your truck and measure the drop, and then sit on the front end and measure the drop. The ratio of the measured drops will then tell you how to divide the drop between front and rear with the trailer hitched. Of course, if you are gravitationally challenged, such as myself, then you will be putting a significant amount of weight on the front and rear, to make the test more accurate. If you are not, then get a couple of friends to help....preferrably fat ones.









Bob
[/quote]

Thanks very much for all your help. One last question (maybe), are you including the link that is attached to the lift bracket in the 5?


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

wolfwood said:


> *ckibbe & W4DRR,* I can't help you with the hitch thing - we have a Hensley - but I can CONGRATULATE you both on your moves from the 4R to the Tundra. We made exactly the same move (had a 25rss at the time) and WE WERE THRILLED!!!! The Tundra didn't even know the 25rss was back there (it hardly recognizes the 28krs, now). You are going to LOVE the towing experience - GOOD ON YOU!!!


We went camping just last weekend for the first time with the Tundra. Yes, the towing experience is vastly improved. We towed at our usual "reasonable and prudent" 60-65 MPH, and we didn't notice near as much of that "tail-wagging-the-dog" motion we used to. Admittedly, we were pushing the envelope with the 4Runner, but it had served us well as a tow vehicle for the last 5 years. If you notice on our signature line, we have relocated from relatively flat Georgia to a little more hilly locale. That was a big factor in upgrading. Plus, I just plain liked the looks of the new, second gen Tundras.









Bob


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

ckibbe said:


> Thanks very much for all your help. One last question (maybe), are you including the link that is attached to the lift bracket in the 5?


Yes, the link that attaches to the bracket on the frame would be #5.

Bob


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## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

For anyone interested, towed a short (30 miles each way) trip last weekend...first one with the new tundra. Very impressed, much better towing experience than the 4-runner. Will be making a 3 hour pull (each way) in two weeks. Most of it on Interstate 10 and 12 in Louisiana, which have to be two of the busiest Interstates around. That will be the real test of this setup.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Before anyone takes off the WD bars, you should do a couple things:

1. Weigh the acutal TW with everything loaded.
2. Check the hitch to see what the load carrying rating is (I'll bet it's lower than the OB's TW







).

IF you make it to this point, get the setup weighed to make sure you aren't significantly unloading the front axle. Also make sure the rear axle weight is within range.

Now IF all those are ok, consider how sway is being controlled.









Ok, now put the wdh bars back on and go camping!!!


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## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

Nathan said:


> Before anyone takes off the WD bars, you should do a couple things:
> 
> 1. Weigh the acutal TW with everything loaded.
> 2. Check the hitch to see what the load carrying rating is (I'll bet it's lower than the OB's TW
> ...


Que'? I have always and will always tow with the wdh and sway bars installed.


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

ckibbe said:


> Before anyone takes off the WD bars, you should do a couple things:
> 
> 1. Weigh the acutal TW with everything loaded.
> 2. Check the hitch to see what the load carrying rating is (I'll bet it's lower than the OB's TW
> ...


Que'? I have always and will always tow with the wdh and sway bars installed.
[/quote]

Definitely a good idea.
I hope my previous statement wasn't misinterpreted to mean it would be a good thing to do away completely with the WD bars. I was only stating that both our trailers do not have a lot of tongue weight, and we could get away with towing without the bars, but it wouldn't be the best or safest thing to do.

Bob


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## ckibbe (Dec 17, 2008)

Another question for you Tundra towers. My tundra is a 09 double cab with the TRD package. Tires are the BF Goodrich Rugged Trails. Door says 33 psi, tire says 44 psi. What do you run? I have put 40, but am curious as to others ideas....


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