# Rear King Bed Slide-Out



## Pbtman

Ive read quite a few posts concerning the rear slide-out room. Some negative or bad reviews involved some semi-older units, (leaking, supports, tracks, etc).
My trailer is a 2018 Outback 250URS. (Built Nov, 2017). The slide-out is the powered cable system. Other models also use this rear slide-out bedroom. What advise, experiences, problems have some of you had with these units. (Excellent. No problems at all is what I would love to hear.) I heard it okay to sleep on the bed with it in. Ive heard that it pulls the tracks loose on the ceiling and that you should never have over 50# on it. Other posts advise building supports that help hold the bed up while traveling. 
Im thoroughly confused. Any advise is greatly appreciated. This is our 1st travel trailer. We had 2 pop-ups then went right to 5th wheels. Thats when I had my 3/4 ton diesel pick up. Weve been out of rving for about 10 years. Now I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 Longhorn Edition 4x4 that does have the trailer towing option with the built-in brake controller. I did purchase a really good weight distributing anti-sway hitch. The truck pulls the trailer with no problem and power to spare.


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## Tourdfox

The rear bed slide has been excellent on our unit. Bought new in 2013. Have slept on the bed many many times in the in position. Never an issue. Cable system also. Since new i have tightened the ceiling rails once and i have put it on my annual check list. I believe they come a bit loose from travel and nothing to do with sleeping on the bed IMO. A bed support is a great preventative maintenance thing for travel and i highly recommend doing this. Has never leaked.Just be sure when you park the unit at a site that you are level or close. Don't have the bed sloped even a little towards the trailer or you could be looking for trouble if it rains. I also designed a custom topper for the bed slide. I love it. As far as the 50 lb not sure where you got that from. I'm 215 on a good day never an issue. And if memory serves i believe it's 1000 lb ??? Not that that would ever happen anyway


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## thefulminator

I also have a 2013 250RS. For several reasons I always level it with the rear end slightly low. First, all the rain water runs away from the rear slide seals. Second, rain and/or condensation from the air conditioner runs to the back of the trailer. This keeps it from dripping on me when accessing the front storage compartment or bike door. Third, it makes the bathroom door sling closed. Fourth, water from taking a shower runs towards the back of the shower in place of off the front edge of the tub and onto the floor.

From my research, the 50 pound limit on the slide in the retracted position was for the old manual rear slides that required the external support braces. I had that type on our prior trailer, a 2008 21RS and did have some rear slide out issues with it. Because of that, I questioned the weight limit on the slide when making the purchase of the 250RS. I have an e-mail from Keystone stating that the rear slide can hold 1000 pounds both extended and retracted. I've never had a problem with the rails on this trailer.


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## Pbtman

You two guys are the bomb, as the younger folks say. I do believe that the posts where I saw that it says 50# limit on the retracted room, was for an older unit with the external supports. I will find or build my own interior support. There's several posts on that.
Tourdfox. I love the topper idea. Also the leveling thing from both of you. Great, great advise. I do want a topper on my dinette slide-out, also. In addition, I've read posts on here about the tv antenna coming loose. This is something else to put on the semi and annual check list. 
I've narrowed the legs on my dinette. Really couldn't get your feet in there. I've also cut the thin board under the sofa and put a piano hinge on it to access my plumbing and heater a lot easier. I've also used the foil tape all around my connections and seams on the heater. I am going to replace the white winterizing hose under the sofa with a longer, clear hose. Next is going to be privacy curtains on the bunk beds up front. It's a grand daughter thing. (oh, also a tv for them)
Once again, thank you. You two have certainly calmed some fears.


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## Tourdfox

I forgot to mention that when i tightened the tracks. It wasn't because they were falling down loose. I just happened to check them one day and found some a little loose. By that i mean maybe a few turns with a screw driver is all. Now i just keep my eye on that area as i do all other area's that have screws. cupboard doors ect


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## thefulminator

My dealers's service guy told me long ago that there are two reasons for rear slide toppers not being available. The first is that with the manual slides, it is very easy to pull the slide out crooked and that can mess up the fabric. The second is that the fabric is so long that water will pool in the middle of it in place of running off. I have seen very wide slide outs with toppers where the owner has a doughnut type kids pool floaty inflated between the roof and the fabric to push the fabric upward and make the water run off. I haven't inquired about a rear slide topper since we purchased the 250RS with power slide out.


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## mfischer

We have a 2017 250URS built in Nov. 2016. We have had no problems with the bed or the side slide. They have been run out and in about 20 times. We slept in it 33 nights.

We took one 2000+ mile road trip with no trouble. One tv antenna bolt did come out and the other one was loose. Two screw heads broke off that hold the propane tanks on to the frame.

Over all the build quality looks to be very good. It tows good with our 2010 Ram 1500.

We bought this camper because of the big bed and all the room inside. I hope you will be as happy with yours as we are with ours.


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## Tourdfox

thefulminator said:


> My dealers's service guy told me long ago that there are two reasons for rear slide toppers not being available. The first is that with the manual slides, it is very easy to pull the slide out crooked and that can mess up the fabric. The second is that the fabric is so long that water will pool in the middle of it in place of running off. I have seen very wide slide outs with toppers where the owner has a doughnut type kids pool floaty inflated between the roof and the fabric to push the fabric upward and make the water run off. I haven't inquired about a rear slide topper since we purchased the 250RS with power slide out.


My original design for the topper did pool. Got creative with the second attempt and put a solid firm light weight core inside the awning material. 2 pockets so to speak. when i take it down it folds in half for easy storage. 0 sag now. Works awesome. I had a roll topper put on the dinette before i brought our unit home from the dealer. Wanted one on the bed slide at that time also. They wouldn't do it. For exact same reason Fulminator said above.


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## Pbtman

When the weather gets just a bit more cooperative, I'm getting my ladder out and head up on top. I guess that'll be something to keep under those bunk beds, is a ladder and broom to clean off the slides before retracting them. I know that there's a side mounted ladder that can be permanently attached to the rv since we can't attach one to the rear like most travel trailers. I just think that's kinda weird. I'd have to see one on an Outback first. I think just a step ladder would suffice. 
Speaking of antennas. My wife thought I was losing my mind when I was walking back and forth in the trailer looking up at the ceiling. "What the heck are you doing? naturally was her question. I replied, "looking for the tv antenna knob thingy, to raise it or at least turn it."
Man, this trailer is gonna be a whole learning curve for this old man.


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## Tourdfox

I keep a telescopic ladder under the bunks in Garage area.Takes up very little space. Don't believe i have ever seen a ladder on the side of any unit. Usually on the front or rear. Been wrong before. My guess is a ladder on the side would possibly make the unit over width legally ???


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## madmaxmutt

I posted what I did to the slide rails/track on my old trailer. No problems after adding fender washers to all screws and changing the last two screws to #10 from the #8 that were there originally. Pulled that trailer over 12,000 miles after that without issue. I forgot to mention the screw and nuts that the rail from widening the gap at the end. The wheel hangers tried to separate/widen the track just enough to make it look strange. Picture without the end cap is attached.








I am not even sure if the new trailer has washers or not, but if I have any issue I will be doing this again.

Key point: Do one screw at a time, remove -replace, remove - replace, remove - replace . . . .


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## thefulminator

madmaxmutt said:


> I posted what I did to the slide rails/track on my old trailer. No problems after adding fender washers to all screws and changing the last two screws to #10 from the #8 that were there originally. Pulled that trailer over 12,000 miles after that without issue. I forgot to mention the screw and nuts that the rail from widening the gap at the end. The wheel hangers tried to separate/widen the track just enough to make it look strange. Picture without the end cap is attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 2011 Surveyor hanger track with number 10 screws.jpg
> 
> I am not even sure if the new trailer has washers or not, but if I have any issue I will be doing this again.
> 
> Key point: Do one screw at a time, remove -replace, remove - replace, remove - replace . . . .


That looks like the fix I posted a few years ago.


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## madmaxmutt

thefulminator said:


> madmaxmutt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I posted what I did to the slide rails/track on my old trailer. No problems after adding fender washers to all screws and changing the last two screws to #10 from the #8 that were there originally. Pulled that trailer over 12,000 miles after that without issue. I forgot to mention the screw and nuts that the rail from widening the gap at the end. The wheel hangers tried to separate/widen the track just enough to make it look strange. Picture without the end cap is attached.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 2011 Surveyor hanger track with number 10 screws.jpg
> 
> I am not even sure if the new trailer has washers or not, but if I have any issue I will be doing this again.
> 
> Key point: Do one screw at a time, remove -replace, remove - replace, remove - replace . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> That looks like the fix I posted a few years ago.
Click to expand...

Mine was a 2011 Forest River Surveyor. The tracks are similar design. It definitely worked for me.


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## GodFather2u

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42138


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## Parrothead

Ladder...

http://www.ladder-guy.com/ladders/7-double-sided-ladder

I discovered this solution on this forum, and it's worked very well for me. Used it again today to sweep the top of the slide. This folding ladder is available from several sited.

Best part for me is it fits inside a 4"x8' square plastic fence post that I bolted on top of the rear bumper/sewer pipe stowage tube. Out of the way, accesible, secure.


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## Pbtman

Parrothead. I love that ladder and I like the storage idea. I just have to get my BAL undercarriage spare tire mount and get the spare tire and rack off of my bumper. Watched the video. Awesome. Thanks for the link. Appreciate you.


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## Parrothead

You can do this install with the bumper-mounted spare tire in place. You will need to notch the fence post/ladder storage tube for the tire mounts bolts. I haven't installed the BAL yet myself, though it is on the upgrade list.


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## Kevin and Sheri

We have a 2013 Outback 250RS. No major problems noted for the rear slide other than having to replace the gear box for the slide motor twice. My repair guy thinks the gear ratio was sufficient for the motor and slide weight. The second replacement was a higher ratio gear box. Thankful I purchased an extended warranty. Both replacements put me back only $200.


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## rwilking

Tourdfox said:


> The rear bed slide has been excellent on our unit. Bought new in 2013. Have slept on the bed many many times in the in position. Never an issue. Cable system also. Since new i have tightened the ceiling rails once and i have put it on my annual check list. I believe they come a bit loose from travel and nothing to do with sleeping on the bed IMO. A bed support is a great preventative maintenance thing for travel and i highly recommend doing this. Has never leaked.Just be sure when you park the unit at a site that you are level or close. Don't have the bed sloped even a little towards the trailer or you could be looking for trouble if it rains. I also designed a custom topper for the bed slide. I love it. As far as the 50 lb not sure where you got that from. I'm 215 on a good day never an issue. And if memory serves i believe it's 1000 lb ??? Not that that would ever happen anyway


Wondering what the slide topper is for? Insulation? We find sleeping in the rear slide is COLD.


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## Johnboy

Pbtman said:


> Ive read quite a few posts concerning the rear slide-out room. Some negative or bad reviews involved some semi-older units, (leaking, supports, tracks, etc).
> My trailer is a 2018 Outback 250URS. (Built Nov, 2017). The slide-out is the powered cable system. Other models also use this rear slide-out bedroom. What advise, experiences, problems have some of you had with these units. (Excellent. No problems at all is what I would love to hear.) I heard it okay to sleep on the bed with it in. Ive heard that it pulls the tracks loose on the ceiling and that you should never have over 50# on it. Other posts advise building supports that help hold the bed up while traveling.
> Im thoroughly confused. Any advise is greatly appreciated. This is our 1st travel trailer. We had 2 pop-ups then went right to 5th wheels. Thats when I had my 3/4 ton diesel pick up. Weve been out of rving for about 10 years. Now I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 Longhorn Edition 4x4 that does have the trailer towing option with the built-in brake controller. I did purchase a really good weight distributing anti-sway hitch. The truck pulls the trailer with no problem and power to spare.


Hi thanks fir your post.i have an outback 28krs with same slide out rails problem.does anybody know if there is steel support bar running the length of the rail or wood?wondering if I can put more screws in


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## thefulminator

Johnboy said:


> Hi thanks fir your post.i have an outback 28krs with same slide out rails problem.does anybody know if there is steel support bar running the length of the rail or wood?wondering if I can put more screws in


Are you asking about the rails mounted to the ceiling?


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## Johnboy

thefulminator said:


> Are you asking about the rails mounted to the ceiling?


Yes with the rollers


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## thefulminator

Mine developed cracks at the end fastener in the rails. I noticed it after going over some tall speed bumps in a parking lot. I extended the rear slide and removed one of the screws to see what it looked like. With the slide out, the rail isn't taking any load at the front end so taking the screw out wasn't a problem. They are square drive truss head cabinet screws. I was able to find the same screws but in zinc finish I just can't remember where. Probably Tacoma Screw or Fastenal.

After doing a bunch of searching, I found pictures of a partially completed outback with a rear slide that showed what looks like 2x6 pieces between the roof trusses at the slide rail locations that the rails are screwed to. In the stowed position, the rollers for the slide out sit between the two factory installed screws. When the slide out bounces, the rail flexes trying to go from straight to a U between the two screws. This flexing causes the cracks.

I'm a structural engineer and I work on repairs for large commercial airplanes. I see stuff like this every day at work. I drilled extra holes through the rails into the 2x6s and installed extra screws with fender washers that were the largest I could fit in the rails. The washers were thin enough to not interfere with the rollers. I also trimmed washers to fit over the end fasteners to spread the load when the rails had already cracked. With the washers in place, the rail won't flex and won't crack down the center. The load is pushed out to the flanges and away from the center of the rail. Also the load is now taken straight into the ceiling through the new screws in place of having to travel each way to get to the ceiling through the factory screws. Because of this, the rail doesn't bend anymore. I haven't had any problems since I did this repair. 

My fix.


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## Johnboy

Thankyou for the info.i am in ireland and rvs are like hens teeth here.i tried dealing with keystone and trekwood to no avail.very bad after sales


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