# Stuck Trailer Brake



## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Went to a State campground in the Adirondacks this weekend. We get to our spot and back in and level the trailer. I have gotten into the habit of running my hands over the wheels periodically to check to see if they are hot. Boy am I glad I did this. The passenger side rear trailer tire was wicked hot, could not even keep your fingers on the lug nuts without getting burned!! I evaluated the major source of the heat as the trailer brake, not the bearing (for which I was thankful). The brake drum was extremely hot, the axle was very warm, but not hot. So, I diagnosed that I had a stuck brake.

I enjoyed the weekend and this morning before I left, I cut the wires to the affected brake so it could not operate. I still had the other three and I only had 50 miles to travel. After confirming the brake was not stuck anymore, we made the journey home, stopping periodically to make sure all was good. Rim was stone cold.

After getting home, I pulled the drum and took a look. Sure enough, I found quite a mess in there. The brake shoes are toast (literally). They have been baked and the shoes have cracks and have begun to separate from the metal. The bearing grease appears to have also been too hot and has liquified and squirted into the drum and mixed with the brake dust. A sticky mess.

I noticed some metal on metal scratches on the front shoe and the magnet bracket. A bit closer inspection and you could see the cause of the problem. The clearance between the front shoe and the bracket holding the brake magnet was not adequate and they were catching on one another. The picture below shows what was happening (I recreated the ssituation on another wheel that was clean). I have shined a flashlight on the area of interest.










Notice the point on the brake shoe catching the magnet bracket. When this happens, the brake does not release when you take your foot off the brake. The brake stays engaged until something causes the two metal parts to separate. I think it was probably intermitent, sometimes catching other times not. I also theorize that the reason the problem began is that the shoes have worn to the point where the point on the brake shoe clears the magnet bracket when the brakes are applied.

So, I clearly need new brakes. I have over 50K on the current set and I do not want to have this happen on one of the other axles. I think new shoes will prevent this from happening again. I also think I might grind that point off the new shoes to give me even more clearance.

Curious what you all think about the bearings? Should I replace them as well or would cleaning them up and replacing the grease be adequate? I looked at the bearings on the affected wheel and they look OK, no pitting or signs of overheating. I checked the wheel several times on the way home today and the wheel and axle were stone cold.

I am leaving on a trip to the Grand Canyon (about 7500 miles round trip) in ten days and do not want any issues.

DAN


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

With 50K I would just replace the bearings. Otherwise you will think about them far too much on your next big trip.

I carry an infrared red thermometer to check the hub and tire temps at every stop. A hot hub says brakes or bearing and a hot tire says it is under inflated.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Thanks for the quick reply Andy. I think I am in agreement with you, but am a little nervous about messing with the bearings before such a long trip, better the devil you know than the one you don't know!! I have never done a set of trailer bearings, but have some level of confidence I can do it. Just don't want to screw it up before we leave. Also a little nervous about leaving with new, untested set of bearings on such a long trip. I don't want any of my mistakes to appear in the middle of Kansas!!









Is it just the bearings, or is there a way to also change the races? I looked at the axle and hub and saw no way to remove the races, they appear to be integral with the axle and hub. I have heard others say they remove the races using a chisel and hammer, but I see no way of doing this on the axle I have.

Also, anyone have any tips on how to press in a rear seal for a backyard mechanic?

Thanks.

DAN


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

TwoElkhounds said:


> Thanks for the quick reply Andy. I think I am in agreement with you, but am a little nervous about messing with the bearings before such a long trip, better the devil you know than the one you don't know!! I have never done a set of trailer bearings, but have some level of confidence I can do it. Just don't want to screw it up before we leave. Also a little nervous about leaving with new, untested set of bearings on such a long trip. I don't want any of my mistakes to appear in the middle of Kansas!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'vealways been told to replace them as a set (bearings and races). e-trailer.com has a great video on how to do it yourself (they sell the parts too of course







)

edit: Here's the website for their videos. Lots of good info up there:
E-trailer videos


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

There is no inner race, the spindle is the race. Also if there is no bluing or visible physical damage to the race you actually do not need to replace it either.

As a compromise. Strip and clean the wheel bearing and race. Inspect the seal, bearing and race and if there is no obvious damage, grease it all back up and re install the bearing.

As a back up buy a bearing set and seal and put them in your emergency box for the trailer. So if you are on the side of the road in Kansas you have the parts to repair it and you do not have to go hunting.


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

X2 w/Camper-Andy. With 50K on the bearings, and the insult of excessive heat and melted bearing grease, I'd replace the bearings. They're "cheap" compared to the cost of melting a bearing, and having stuff tear apart at 50 mph in Kansas. Dorothy and Toto say "do it! 

But if not replacing them now, then Camper-Andy is right--buy replacements, take them with you, and if you need them, you have them. Then you can replace them next fall when you get back from the trip and not be in a rush...You can do the work carefully, on YOUR schedule, and take the TT out for a nice easy test drive, etc. I think I remember reading/viewing some stuff about it that you might need to rent a bearing puller, etc. My recollection is that it's not a trivial repair job but I've not done it (only ~10K on my TT).

Good luck and have fun on the trip.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> There is no inner race, the spindle is the race. Also if there is no bluing or visible physical damage to the race you actually do not need to replace it either.
> 
> As a compromise. Strip and clean the wheel bearing and race. Inspect the seal, bearing and race and if there is no obvious damage, grease it all back up and re install the bearing.
> 
> As a back up buy a bearing set and seal and put them in your emergency box for the trailer. So if you are on the side of the road in Kansas you have the parts to repair it and you do not have to go hunting.


I definitely plan on stripping and cleaning all four wheel bearings this week, that was already in the plan. Actually, it was in the plan back in April but I somehow never got around to it.







Anyhow, I assume by "inner race" you mean the races on the axle. Both the bearing races on the axle appeared to be machined on the spindle, so no way to remove any race.

I like your suggestion on having a few spare bearing parts in my tool box. I will definitely do this, along with a tube or two of bearing grease and a grease gun.

Thanks again,

DAN


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Nathan said:


> Thanks for the quick reply Andy. I think I am in agreement with you, but am a little nervous about messing with the bearings before such a long trip, better the devil you know than the one you don't know!! I have never done a set of trailer bearings, but have some level of confidence I can do it. Just don't want to screw it up before we leave. Also a little nervous about leaving with new, untested set of bearings on such a long trip. I don't want any of my mistakes to appear in the middle of Kansas!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'vealways been told to replace them as a set (bearings and races). e-trailer.com has a great video on how to do it yourself (they sell the parts too of course







)

edit: Here's the website for their videos. Lots of good info up there:
E-trailer videos
[/quote]

Thanks for the link Nathan. I watched the video and I now have complete and total confidence!!! I have every tool in my tool box that they used, hammer, screw driver, metal pipe, piece of scrap wood, and a big socket!! Does not look too bad. I will look into replacing the bearings on all four wheels and will purchase a few spares, just in case.

I was hoping to use this event to get a new trailer







, guess that has gone out the window!!







Just kidding.

DAN


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Id buy the whole brake assembly, not just shoes.

They ate real cheap around elkhart. Do some google searches for "trailer brakes elkhart in" You could prolly get em way cheaper than anywhere else.

The races are pressed in to the hub. They are real simple to knock out with a drift or even a big standard blade screw driver. I have done em with a big screwdriver and a 3lb mini sledge my whole life. Ive never knicked one. Just be a bit careful.

Id do em all now before the trip. That way no worries on the trip. They are very simple once you do one.

Carey


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Colorado~DirtBikers said:


> Id buy the whole brake assembly, not just shoes.
> 
> They ate real cheap around elkhart. Do some google searches for "trailer brakes elkhart in" You could prolly get em way cheaper than anywhere else.
> 
> ...


Hi Carey,

I agree, all new springs, magnets, shoes, and hardware. This is in the plan. Just money, isn't it!!?

Thanks,

DAN


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

No buy the whole assembly. It has 4 bolts that hold it to the axle. That way everything is new. pretty much a bolt on and your done!

Give me a sec. I will find a link for ya.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

http://www.axleinc.com/index.html

http://www.axisproducts.com/products_09.htm

Axis is a big supplier to all the rv makers in elkhart county.

If you look on there ebay(axis) link I think you need the 10 inch assemblies on page 2.

49.50 each.

You can buy complete drums with all the races already pressed in. They are around 50 bucks.

Anyway for about 100 bucks per wheel, you can have complete brand new brake assemblies and drums.

Tomorrow just call em. Tell what kind of rv you have and take a measurement of the drum, and how many lug nuts it is.

One has better prices then the other. Either will make you a package deal. I think axis has the best prices.

Carey

I edited the axis link. didnt have it right.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

etrailer has good prices too.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/Dexter/84546UC3.html

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-27.html

Etrailer has some never adjust models too.

http://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Dexter/23-468.html

Remember assemblies are sold left and right.

Etrailer has gotten big enough that they may have better prices.

Still be worth a call to the elkhart guys. They move more parts than even etrailer does.

Good Luck!

Carey


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

One more thing. I bet the elkhart guys would even pack grease in the bearings for you. That way all you got to do is bolt on brake assemblies. Hook up the wires, slide on the drums and adjust the bearings and brakes.

Then away you go.

Carey


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## Duanesz (Jul 10, 2009)

The one thing I see in the picture where the break arm hitting the shoe is the magnet must have worn down too increasing the distance it had to travel to make contact with the drum. I see where the shoe could have worn too and traveling farther to make contact with the drum. My vote is for the whole break assembly also cheap and only 4 bolts to put it on. 50,000 mi is alot for all of that springs and all. How much would two new axles and springs be complete with breaks?


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## ELSEWHERE (Sep 16, 2007)

When I stop for gas, food, nature calls, etc. I almost always feel my tire sidewalls (for underinflation) and the rims between the lug nuts (for bearing/brake problems) as soon as I stop. It doesn't tell me what tire pressures are but if I have a low tire it only takes a few pounds before it starts running warmer and if I find a hot rim I know I've got a bearing (brake) problem or a cold rim an inoperative brake. It doesn't take long before you get familiar with the temperatures based on abient temps, running speeds and if you just stopped after doing 60+ mph. It can be very informative.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Colorado~DirtBikers said:


> http://www.axleinc.com/index.html
> 
> http://www.axisproducts.com/products_09.htm
> 
> ...


Thanks for the great advice Carey. I went ahaead and purchased four complete brakes assemblies from etrailer.com, two right sets and two left sets. I got the auto adjust brake assemblies, no need to adjust the brakes, so they claim. We will see about that. I also purchased 6 complete bearing sets (2 spare sets as recommended by CamperAndy). Total cost was $297.

I am still not convinced that I will replace the bearings. I will look at them very closely when I replace the brakes on each wheel. I have the parts if i need them. I am just not able to convince myself that I would be better off with a new, untested set of bearings installed before I leave on our trip to the Grand Canyon. My gut tells me that I should stick with the proven set. Usually my gut is right.

DAN


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