# Axle Flip



## garyb1st (Dec 6, 2007)

Need help.

As a newbie, I'm not sure this is the right place to ask, but I'm looking for an independent rv repair, axle or welding shop in the So Cal area that will do an axle flip on my 28KRS.

If any So Cal Outbackers have had the lift done at an independent shop, I'd appreciate the names and any suggestions you might have. Campers World wants about $700.00. That seems a bit excessive based on what I've been reading.

If I can't get it done relatively quickly, I'll need to rent space at a storage facility since I am unable to back it into the space next to my driveway and don't want to leave it on the street.

Thanks,

Gary


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

garyb1st said:


> Need help.
> 
> As a newbie, I'm not sure this is the right place to ask, but I'm looking for an independent rv repair, axle or welding shop in the So Cal area that will do an axle flip on my 28KRS.
> 
> ...


Do you know anyone with a truck that is lower that yours....or can you lower the hitch on your rig somehow (temp of course)

Reason I ask, is if you can get the front end lower, you'll raise the rear end....hopefully giving you enough space to back the trailer into your spot along side your house. Then you won't be so rushed to find a shop that can do the axle flip....and save $$$$ on temp RV storage fees.


----------



## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Do you know anyone with a truck that is lower that yours....or can you lower the hitch on your rig somehow (temp of course)
> 
> Reason I ask, is if you can get the front end lower, you'll raise the rear end....hopefully giving you enough space to back the trailer into your spot along side your house. Then you won't be so rushed to find a shop that can do the axle flip....and save $$$$ on temp RV storage fees.


Jim,

Gary mentioned in another thread that it is the front end that is bottoming out because of the steep incline of his driveway


----------



## garyb1st (Dec 6, 2007)

Do you know anyone with a truck that is lower that yours....or can you lower the hitch on your rig somehow (temp of course)

Reason I ask, is if you can get the front end lower, you'll raise the rear end....hopefully giving you enough space to back the trailer into your spot along side your house. Then you won't be so rushed to find a shop that can do the axle flip....and save $$$$ on temp RV storage fees.
[/quote]

The weight distributing bars were still on the hitch when I tried to back it in the first time. I know when they're in place, the hitch goes up and the rear of the trailer down. So by taking them off I should get more clearance in the rear. But then I lose some at the hitch. Not sure the trade off helps but it's worth a try. Also I'd rather bottom out at the hitch than the rear jacks. I'll remove them and try again tomorrow. Another thing I will try is backing in at a 45 degree angle.


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

garyb1st said:


> The weight distributing bars were still on the hitch when I tried to back it in the first time. I know when they're in place, the hitch goes up and the rear of the trailer down. So by taking them off I should get more clearance in the rear. But then I lose some at the hitch. Not sure the trade off helps but it's worth a try. Also I'd rather bottom out at the hitch than the rear jacks. I'll remove them and try again tomorrow. Another thing I will try is backing in at a 45 degree angle.


Yep...removing the bars might be just the trick you need. Keep us posted.


----------



## Acadia Hiker (May 29, 2007)

OK, question I've been asking myself since I started hanging out here. What the *heck *is an axle flip???


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Acadia Hiker said:


> OK, question I've been asking myself since I started hanging out here. What the *heck *is an axle flip???


Flipping RV travel trailer axles means mounting the axle or axles under the springs as opposed to over the springs. This raises the trailer about 7 inches. It's often done for more ground clearance. But also, these days, pickup trucks are sometimes higher than they used to be years ago so flipping the axle is also done when someone with an older trailer gets a new truck. Thus allowing the trailer to tow level again.

The process basically involves unbolting one end of each spring, unbolting the axle and removing the axle from the springs. The springs are reinstalled.

Two new axle perches are welded to the top of the axle counter to the old perches. The axle is then bolted under the spring.

The above is done for each axle.


----------



## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

Acadia Hiker said:


> OK, question I've been asking myself since I started hanging out here. What the *heck *is an axle flip???


Instead of the spring pack riding underneath the axle, it is moved to the top of the axle, thereby lifting the entire trailer up by that amount. Make sense?


----------



## Acadia Hiker (May 29, 2007)

Crystal clear! Thanks all!


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Acadia Hiker said:


> Crystal clear! Thanks all!


No problem...


----------



## garyb1st (Dec 6, 2007)

I thought I'd update you on my progress as slow as it's been. Actually, I've had a couple of quotes on the flip. The dealer estimated about $400 to $450. Much less than I anticipated. An independent thought maybe $300 to $350.00. So, either way the price isn't too bad. But a new concern has arisen.

When I went out to measure the distance between the coach and the street before reinstalling the equalizing bars, I discovered that the drivers side of the trailer is 1 1/2 to 2 inches higher than the passenger side. That concerned me and I called the service department at the dealer. After consulting with the manager of the body shop, where they fixed the hitch (that's another story), the service guy advised that the body shop manager told him that after they repaired the hitch, the trailer was within 1/4 of being square. Both sides were about the same distance from the ground. A quarter inch I can live with. One and a half concerns me. So I measure and measure. Then I check the tires.

While all four tires are the same size, the DOT numbers are slightly different. Two tires were manufactured the 42nd week of 2007. One the 43rd week and the other does not have a date. So I don't know if some of the tires were replaced before I picked up the trailer or it came from Keystone that way. What puzzles me is the difference in the diameter of the tires. The tires on the passenger side of the trailer are an inch smaller in diameter than the driver side. I took out my tire gage expecting the one side to be low on air. All tires were within 4 or 5 pounds of 50 PSI. So even though two of the tires looked like they had lost air, they were fine.

Long story short on the hitch. The DW, noticed a dent in the side of the hitch before we picked it up. I didn't give it enough attention before we signed the paper but after took a longer look. The side of the hitch had a significant dent in the steel. The hitch must be constructed out of 1/4 steel and it had a small dent pushed in about an inch wide and 1/4 inch deep. It takes a lot of force to do that. My concern was that something struck the trailer and pushed it sideways. The body shop guy said the only thing that could do that was a fork lift that jacked while parking the trailer. Kinda makes sense since the fork lift truck would have been hitched to the trailer and when it jacked the trailer likely wouldn't have moved. But a sharp point on the fork lift truck could cause the dent. I'm wasn't sure what to do but told the dealer I wanted a letter stating the hitch was damaged and repaired and if we have any problems related to the hitch damage, they'll pay for the repair. I wasn't thrilled with the hand written letter with a signature that no one could make out, but in the heat of the moment, we just wanted the trailer and agreed to the deal. Anyway, I don't think the hitch is connected to the height problem but I'm taking it back tomorrow for them to look at the side to side height difference. Not sure if I'll have them do the flip while it's there since I'm a bit concerned with the aerodynamics of the trailer after the hitch. An extra six inches seems quite extreme. Then I saw an Airstream video touting their stability of their units compared to box trailers that sway almost to the point of rolling over during an emergency lane change. So maybe for now, I just store it.

I've found a place where I can store it for only $70.00 monthly. Month to month with a $70.00 deposit. Only 30 minutes from the house. That's a lot less than I expected and since we'll probably be on the road in another two months possibly leading to an attempt at full timing, I may just forget about parking it at the house. What I really need to do is redo the driveway which is quite old and lifted about 4 to 5 inches by the roots of a rather large tree.

If anyone wants info on the storage facility let me know. It 's relatively new and not yet paved. But they have space for 1400 trailers and will have a dump station and wash rack when completed. I've seen storage for as much as $150 in the L.A. area so I was quite pleased to find it. Also, it's in a relatively obscure area.


----------

