# Water In Bottom Of Window Frame



## ntymidtr (Feb 3, 2005)

I have a 30RLS Outback TT and noticed this w/e that I had some pooling of water in the bottom of a front bedroom window frame. It doesn't appear to be coming from the top or sides of the window as there is not moisture trail. Could this be condensation? there was about 1/4" of standing water.

It did rain off and on but not substantially. Has anyone had this problem or know if it could be moister coming in from the bottom of the window frame?

Thank you in advance!

NTYMIDTR

2005 30 RLS Outback TT


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

There should be drain or weep holes in the bottom of the window frame so any water that accumulates can drain away. Check that the holes aren't clogged up.

Mike


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

It sounds like condensation and not a leak. Was the window where the water collected on the shady side of the trailer? If condensation there are several thing that can be done but before you hear all those options it would be good to know if it is.

If you don't think it is condensation then it is time for a hose test. have the DW spray water ABOVE the window and let it run down just like rain and see if you can see where it trickles in.

Good luck and let us know what you find.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> It sounds like condensation and not a leak. Was the window where the water collected on the shady side of the trailer? If condensation there are several thing that can be done but before you hear all those options it would be good to know if it is.
> 
> If you don't think it is condensation then it is time for a hose test. have the DW spray water ABOVE the window and let it run down just like rain and see if you can see where it trickles in.
> 
> ...


Also try the A/C in dry mode. This helps with condensation. Keep a window or roof vent cracked open as well.

Thor


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## RLW7302 (Feb 27, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> ... If condensation there are several thing that can be done but before you hear all those options it would be good to know if it is.
> 
> [snapback]36877[/snapback]​


I noticed a similar accumulation of water on our last trip. I'm pretty sure it was condensation, and not a leak. So I'd be interested in hearing those options you have.

Thanks,
Roger.


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## klash (Sep 4, 2006)

ntymidtr said:


> I have a 30RLS Outback TT and noticed this w/e that I had some pooling of water in the bottom of a front bedroom window frame. It doesn't appear to be coming from the top or sides of the window as there is not moisture trail. Could this be condensation? there was about 1/4" of standing water.
> 
> It did rain off and on but not substantially. Has anyone had this problem or know if it could be moister coming in from the bottom of the window frame?
> 
> ...


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## klash (Sep 4, 2006)

I have a 2005 Outback 28FRLS, and I have experienced this with 3 of the small narrow windows in the rear of the trailer. In all cases it happened during some pretty heavy down pours. the last one was just the other day when we had a real heavy down pour here in the Pacific North-West.
The problem may or may not be due to condensation, but my problem was due to the sealant between the glass and the rubber seal leaking. I found the sealant to be virtually non existant or very dry. This water will actually leak up hill due to capillary action. so it gets into the seal on the outside, accumulates at the bottom, and then seeps down and over the bottom of the window glass and then up on the inside and slowly accumulates in the little channel on the inside of the window.
I got a large tube of acrylic sealer, you can use silicon, but the acrylic is easier to clean up. Use a putty knife (on the outside) and carefully lift the seal a bit. Insert the nozzle of the acrylic sealer tube and apply a generous amount of sealer all around the window seal. I started from the top worked around clock wise and then back up to the top. Work quickly and then using a wet rag clean up any of the residue acrylic that oozed out. Problem solved.
I am only a dumb retired Naval engineer, I simply do not understand why the window manufacturer cannot install the glass and it's rubber seal and guarantee that it won't leak in a simple rain fall. Damn, I had to keep a submarine water tight!!!!!
I might add that for those of us who spend a lot of time down south in the hot perpetual sun, might have a higher window seal failure than those that live in more moderate climes.

Bernie Klashinsky, Sidney, British Columbia, Canada


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## RizFam (Feb 25, 2006)

Hi,

I will have to agree with the others & not be too worried. I never had that happen until the temp change. Once it got cooler out I was getting it as well. Esp when I did a lot of cooking in the TT. I first noticed it at our last rally, I made a huge pot of soup inside b/c it was raining & cold. I just kept putting paper towels in the corners on the window sills to catch the water. What made it worse was that my son was drawing on the windows with his fingers & making the water run down even more







I had puddles on all of my window sills in my kitchen & dinette/living area.









Tami


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

I had the same problem. It was cool out and had the heater on. 5 people in it added to the problem im sure. The next night i left a roof vent open and it did help. I thought about getting on of these http://www.dehumidifier.ws/25_pt_.htm to help pull out the moisture. Just let it drain in the sink....


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

It sounds like condensation, but I would run the check that Andy suggested just to make sure. Were you running the furnace at all? How about the stove. Did you notice it with any other windows? When you woke up in the morning, was there condensation on the glass? These are all questions to ask. If this was the only window involved, it may be a leak, and Andy's hose test should reveal the problem.

Tim


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## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Just be glad you have a 30' Trailer. You should see how bad it gets in a 21' trailer. Even the walls sweat in places. I drove myself nuts checking the trailer each time it rained for 2 months until I convinced my self that it was condensation. It is also true that the side away from the sun will have greater condensation.


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Mark,
Eugene (ee4308) told us about "Dri-Z-Air" that is similar to DampRid crystals, but in a basket on top of a bowl that condensation collects in. MUCH better than DampRid buckets, as they will split, if too much moisture collects in them. "Dri-Z-Air" is available at Camping World, E-bay, Target, and other stores. Refills are like $2, and they REALLY work. I have one in the kitchen area and one in the bathroom of my 31 RQS. 
I, too, had problems, during cold weather, when my furnace was running, with condensation on the windows. Opening the ceiling vents (especially in the bathroom) and in the other areas help. I had MaxxAir vent covers installed, and also plan on buying a small dehumidifier, to make sure humidity is kept to a minimum. 
As someone else mentioned, the "dry mode" on the a/c really does work. Also, be sure to use your vent hood when cooking, to remove excess heat/humidity.
Take care!
Darlene


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

sgalady said:


> be sure to use your vent hood when cooking, to remove excess heat/humidity.


Nice that your trailers vent hood vents to the outside. Many of the Outbacks simply circulate the air through a filter back into the trailer. There is a mod somewhere on the forum to change the Microwave venting to the outside.

Ed


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## gone campin (Jan 29, 2006)

I think I have a bad condensation problem.

I got a game out from under my bench this past weekend while camping and it was moldy. I had to throw it away. When I went into the other bench to get the box for my crockpot to put it away, the box was wet. It wasn't the day before when I got the crockpot out. The carpet in the bench area was wet and upon further investigation so was the walls in the bench, the cushion, inside the cupboards was also wet, was this condensation? I had to empty the cabinets and the closets so the stuff would not get moldy. I really need some suggestions on how to fix this problem. All my stuff is piled up on my bed now. I never had this problem before with my other trailer so I am lost and really need advice.

The only month I usually do not camp in is January, so this will be an on going problem I guess if it is condensation from the heat. My furnace gets really hot before it shuts off and then it gets really cold in the trailer before it comes back on so the temp fluctuates. The dealer said there is nothing wrong with the furnace.

Thanks,
Linda


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Linda, 
I would say if the furnace gets it really hot before it cuts off and then lets it get really cold before it cuts on, there IS a problem with your furnace. Mine keeps is a fairly constant temp. I don't keep my whole OB as warm as the living area, and use an electric heater in that area, to conserve propane. Plus, I like to sleep in cooler temps. 
Open the cabinets, bins, and closets up and let air circulate in them. Do you have MaxxAir vent covers on top? If not, I would invest in them, so you can leave a vent cracked, and the bathroom vent fan on, as well.
You'd be surprised how much humidity can build up in a TT. I was shocked with the Dri-Z-Airs I use. Put your a/c unit on dry mode for about 24 hours, if you have a 30 amp hookup. If not, I'd invest in a small dehumidifier.
Darlene


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## gone campin (Jan 29, 2006)

sgalady said:


> Linda,
> I would say if the furnace gets it really hot before it cuts off and then lets it get really cold before it cuts on, there IS a problem with your furnace. Mine keeps is a fairly constant temp. I don't keep my whole OB as warm as the living area, and use an electric heater in that area, to conserve propane. Plus, I like to sleep in cooler temps.
> Open the cabinets, bins, and closets up and let air circulate in them. Do you have MaxxAir vent covers on top? If not, I would invest in them, so you can leave a vent cracked, and the bathroom vent fan on, as well.
> You'd be surprised how much humidity can build up in a TT. I was shocked with the Dri-Z-Airs I use. Put your a/c unit on dry mode for about 24 hours, if you have a 30 amp hookup. If not, I'd invest in a small dehumidifier.
> Darlene


Darlene,
You don't blow a breaker when you run an electric heater? I do. I complained about that as well as, the furnace, and was told; operates well under normal operating conditions. Yes I made sure that was the only thing on when I plugged the heater in and turned it on. The furnace sometimes has a 5 degree difference. The thermometer I place in the trailer shows 68 and furnace is set for 73. Furnace won't come on till it is 68 sometimes. If I turn it up to match the difference with the thermometer it won't cut off until it is so hot you think you are in the middle of the Equator. If I can't run a space heater I would never be able to run a humidifier. When the fan in the bathroom is on it doesn't even take the steam out of the bathroom, and when I have it on and a window or door open I do not feel the slightest of breezes. They said it wasn't working cause my battery was low. The trailer is plugged in when we are camping and using the fan so what does the battery have to do with that? Does your cause a slight breeze at all or remove the steam when showering?

Thanks,
Linda


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

gone campin said:


> Linda,
> I would say if the furnace gets it really hot before it cuts off and then lets it get really cold before it cuts on, there IS a problem with your furnace. Mine keeps is a fairly constant temp. I don't keep my whole OB as warm as the living area, and use an electric heater in that area, to conserve propane. Plus, I like to sleep in cooler temps.
> Open the cabinets, bins, and closets up and let air circulate in them. Do you have MaxxAir vent covers on top? If not, I would invest in them, so you can leave a vent cracked, and the bathroom vent fan on, as well.
> You'd be surprised how much humidity can build up in a TT. I was shocked with the Dri-Z-Airs I use. Put your a/c unit on dry mode for about 24 hours, if you have a 30 amp hookup. If not, I'd invest in a small dehumidifier.
> Darlene


Darlene,
You don't blow a breaker when you run an electric heater? I do. I complained about that as well as, the furnace, and was told; operates well under normal operating conditions. Yes I made sure that was the only thing on when I plugged the heater in and turned it on. The furnace sometimes has a 5 degree difference. The thermometer I place in the trailer shows 68 and furnace is set for 73. Furnace won't come on till it is 68 sometimes. If I turn it up to match the difference with the thermometer it won't cut off until it is so hot you think you are in the middle of the Equator. If I can't run a space heater I would never be able to run a humidifier. When the fan in the bathroom is on it doesn't even take the steam out of the bathroom, and when I have it on and a window or door open I do not feel the slightest of breezes. They said it wasn't working cause my battery was low. The trailer is plugged in when we are camping and using the fan so what does the battery have to do with that? Does your cause a slight breeze at all or remove the steam when showering?

Thanks,
Linda
[/quote]

Linda, First I must tell you the installed fan in the bath is really a joke and will not move much if any air. It will not create a breeze with an open window. If you want to move air you will need to upgrade to a TurboMaxx fan or a Fantastic Fan, both are great fans and really move the air quietly.

As for the furnace operation. The control thermistor for the furnace is located in the AC unit in the ceiling and if it is not correctly placed can have a major effect in the way it cycles the furnace. When you look at the AC unit the thermistor is the little yellow thing sticking out. If you do not see one or it is not actually sticking out at least 1/8" then that is most likely your problem. This can also be upgraded with a Hunter wireless thermostat that you can place in a better location to better control the temperature swings in the way the furnace operates.

Many things in the way trailers are built are compromises, some are just better executed compromises then others.


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Hi, Linda!
When I use the shower, I close the door to the bathroom, and the fan pulls air from under the bathroom door (there's about a 2-3" gap), kinda like an attic fan does with windows cracked in a home. It pretty much keeps the mirror from fogging up, etc. and the walls seem dry. 
You may need to check the battery fluid level, connections, etc., as everything in your OB runs through the inverter. My heater does heat up to a little higher than the set temp, but I've never put a thermometer in. I wondered if air was leaking in around my superslide, causing it to cool down more in the living area. Like I said, to conserve propane, during the day, I use a small portable fan-driven heater to heat the main living area. I cut the small electric heater off at night, usually, and just use the furnace. It hasn't tripped a breaker, yet, and I've had the water heater on electric and used the microwave and fridge was on, at the same time. 
Maybe some of the guys will chime in and give more info. Hope so.
Darlene


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

As for the furnace operation. The control thermistor for the furnace is located in the AC unit in the ceiling and if it is not correctly placed can have a major effect in the way it cycles the furnace. When you look at the AC unit the thermistor is the little yellow thing sticking out. If you do not see one or it is not actually sticking out at least 1/8" then that is most likely your problem. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I don't think this is right the little yellow thing sticking out is for the remote and the thermistor is up inside the AC unit on the coil on the return side !!!! This is why there is such a big swing in the Temperature when on heat it takes a lot of heat to reach up inside the AC unit to the thermistor!!! This is why I added a Hunter thermostat in my trailer!!! Now the heat is with in 1 to 2 degrees of what I set the stat at !!! This is a must mod if you want the right Temperature !!!!







THe Rip------Also now I can run the fan on low or dryer with the heat on


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Rip said:


> As for the furnace operation. The control thermistor for the furnace is located in the AC unit in the ceiling and if it is not correctly placed can have a major effect in the way it cycles the furnace. When you look at the AC unit the thermistor is the little yellow thing sticking out. If you do not see one or it is not actually sticking out at least 1/8" then that is most likely your problem. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I don't think this is right the little yellow thing sticking out is for the remote and the thermistor is up inside the AC unit on the coil on the return side !!!! This is why there is such a big swing in the Temperature when on heat it takes a lot of heat to reach up inside the AC unit to the thermistor!!! This is why I added a Hunter thermostat in my trailer!!! Now the heat is with in 1 to 2 degrees of what I set the stat at !!! This is a must mod if you want the right Temperature !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry RIP I am sure I am correct on this, the IR receiver for the remote is located behind the black circle when you look at the AC unit and the temperature sensor you see inside the unit is the coil freeze sensor to shut the compressor down but leaves the fan running to prevent ice build up on the coil. There is no air circulation into the AC unit when the furnace is operating.

The best thing to do is go to the Hunter thermostat but the installed system can work acceptably.


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