# 30" Scissor Jacks



## NAturedog2 (Jan 29, 2007)

I have read here where people replaced their jacks with 30" scissor jacks, from what I remember people said camping world is where they got them. I can't find them at my camping world only the 24" ones are there. Because I did the axle flip I think the 30" would work better for me. So anyone know where to get them and what the best brand is?

Russ


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## FLYakman (Jan 26, 2006)

Don't know about the best brands but I Googled 30" scissor jacks and a bunch came up. Did you try doing that?


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

E bay had a bunch of them. Cheap too. I need to replace mine since I did the flip too. The old ones are really stretching it to hit the ground.


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## NAturedog2 (Jan 29, 2007)

battalionchief3 said:


> E bay had a bunch of them. Cheap too. I need to replace mine since I did the flip too. The old ones are really stretching it to hit the ground.


Yea I wondered how the quality of them were. and if anyone had bought them.


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

If the current jacks that you have are fine, another solution is to get a 4x6 or 6x6 from your local building supply. You can then cut it into 12" lengths and have blocks that work for stabilizers, tongue jack, and wheel chocks. I have had on more than one occasion where I was only able to put down a 3/4 inch piece of wood under my stabilizers on the back and stack 3 - 6x6's under the front stabilizers to keep them from being extended too much. I have a range of thicknesses that I will carry so that I can level front to back, and side to side. Since I do work in construction I generally have scraps laying around and it is much cheaper then the plastic interlocking blocks.

The closer to the closed position the less movement you will get from the jacks. I have found that with chocks of wood in front and behind the tires, a BAL chock, and the stabilizers down, but with blocks underneath, I will get almost no movement from the trailer. (I have had people think that I have the trailer sitting on jack stands.)


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## luckylynn (Jan 9, 2007)

outback loft said:


> If the current jacks that you have are fine, another solution is to get a 4x6 or 6x6 from your local building supply. You can then cut it into 12" lengths and have blocks that work for stabilizers, tongue jack, and wheel chocks. I have had on more than one occasion where I was only able to put down a 3/4 inch piece of wood under my stabilizers on the back and stack 3 - 6x6's under the front stabilizers to keep them from being extended too much. I have a range of thicknesses that I will carry so that I can level front to back, and side to side. Since I do work in construction I generally have scraps laying around and it is much cheaper then the plastic interlocking blocks.
> 
> The closer to the closed position the less movement you will get from the jacks. I have found that with chocks of wood in front and behind the tires, a BAL chock, and the stabilizers down, but with blocks underneath, I will get almost no movement from the trailer. (I have had people think that I have the trailer sitting on jack stands.)


I have a question for all of you people that have so much stabilizer & wheel chock problems. We have owned pop-ups,a Fleetwood terry(don't ask,it was a big mistake)the Outback 23KRS and now the Tango Twist. So you see we are not strangers to campers but we have never had problems with the camper being stable with just the pads(2x2 or sg.block thingys)and something under the jacks & tonguejack to keep them from sinking in the dirt.

Could it be that we just have not traveled enough or could it be that all you * Young Folks * are running foot races( or something







) in your campers?

I keep trying to understand this problem










Thanks ....Lynn


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

luckylynn said:


> If the current jacks that you have are fine, another solution is to get a 4x6 or 6x6 from your local building supply. You can then cut it into 12" lengths and have blocks that work for stabilizers, tongue jack, and wheel chocks. I have had on more than one occasion where I was only able to put down a 3/4 inch piece of wood under my stabilizers on the back and stack 3 - 6x6's under the front stabilizers to keep them from being extended too much. I have a range of thicknesses that I will carry so that I can level front to back, and side to side. Since I do work in construction I generally have scraps laying around and it is much cheaper then the plastic interlocking blocks.
> 
> The closer to the closed position the less movement you will get from the jacks. I have found that with chocks of wood in front and behind the tires, a BAL chock, and the stabilizers down, but with blocks underneath, I will get almost no movement from the trailer. (I have had people think that I have the trailer sitting on jack stands.)


I have a question for all of you people that have so much stabilizer & wheel chock problems. We have owned pop-ups,a Fleetwood terry(don't ask,it was a big mistake)the Outback 23KRS and now the Tango Twist. So you see we are not strangers to campers but we have never had problems with the camper being stable with just the pads(2x2 or sg.block thingys)and something under the jacks & tonguejack to keep them from sinking in the dirt.

Could it be that we just have not traveled enough or could it be that all you * Young Folks * are running foot races( or something







) in your campers?

I keep trying to understand this problem









Thanks ....Lynn
[/quote]

Seeing that it is just me I usually dont have any problems with my trailer rocking or shaking. But when I do get a few friends out with me and we are all sitting upstairs, there is some movement.

I need to have larger pads for nuder my stabilizers and tongue jack because a good portion of my camping is on the beach. Not at the beach on blacktop, but *on the beach*, so the larger the pad underneath the better. Last spring I had the wind blow the sand out from underneath all of my stabilizers even with 12x12 pads underneath them.)

But in my case with having the loft model I do get a bit more movement then most trailers if I am not careful about how I set up.


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## NAturedog2 (Jan 29, 2007)

Probably get a little more "shake" with a longer model than a shorter model. Plus we have four kids. I think once we did the axle flip it got worse. Most of the time we have the stabilizers almost all the way down. I just got the wheel x-chocks an am going to try them. but with the stabilizers being so short thought it wouldn't hurt to get longer ones that were a little more stout.


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