# Hey Battery Geeks...



## Traveling Tek

I want to upgrade my outbacks power. I have one excide 12v deep cycle on it right now and it's garbage. Can't even get through one night with the furnace. I already made the mistake of leaving the camper plugged into my van overnight and it trashed the battery in my van (replaced it with an Optima yellow top). I have read a lot on different setups, but I know that a couple of you on here actually run solar and batteries and such and could tell me exactly what to get and where to get them. I want to do at least 2 6volt batteries, and some solar to charge them. I can install myself if I have too, but I could also just drive to your house and have you help me so I don't ruin anything. ;-)

What should I get?


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## hautevue

I think your decision depends on how much dry camping you do, and for how long each time, and do you have a genset, etc.

We seldom dry camp more than occasionally overnight, but did it for four days at Glacier. I have two 12v batts, and with minimal use of interior lights (and the sun doesn't set until ~8:30 - 8:45 at Glacier in July), we got through the 4 days without problems. But the furnace only ran for maybe an hour or two, total, in the middle of each night. No genset, either. No kids, so no television or dvd playing, and that helps.

If you really boondock it, then you probably want two 6volt batts. If you're beyond the end of the road and want to stay a week, and have kids who love that video, you'll need significant reserve power, good solar panels, and maybe a genset, too.

As for solar recharging, most posts say you should get at least about 100 watts of power and they suggest that the el cheapos that put out 25 - 40 watts are basically useless. It takes 25 - 40 watts of power to push those electrons through the wires and into the batteries, so you really have no significant charging. But 100 - 200 watt solar panels and controller are not cheap.


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## thefulminator

_*This sounds like a job for Oregon_Camper*_

He is going to tell you among other things to set up with (2) 6 volt golf cart batteries.


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## KTMRacer

Traveling Tek said:


> I want to upgrade my outbacks power. I have one excide 12v deep cycle on it right now and it's garbage. Can't even get through one night with the furnace. I already made the mistake of leaving the camper plugged into my van overnight and it trashed the battery in my van (replaced it with an Optima yellow top). I have read a lot on different setups, but I know that a couple of you on here actually run solar and batteries and such and could tell me exactly what to get and where to get them. I want to do at least 2 6volt batteries, and some solar to charge them. I can install myself if I have too, but I could also just drive to your house and have you help me so I don't ruin anything. ;-)
> 
> What should I get?


I'd also recomend dual 6V's, flooded cells (the ones you can add water to) Trojan is kinda the reference standard but there are other good ones available. My persoal preference is a pair of Trojan T-145's (240AH for a 20hr rating, 190AH for a 5hr rating). Given how much you use the trailer, hooked to shore power or not, the 6v are usually more tolerant of abuse, give more run time and last a long time. 6-10 years isn't uncommon if you take reasonable care of them. True 12V deep discharge aren't a bad choice either but few companies make a real 12V deep discharge only. If it says "starting" or gives CCA (cold cranking amps), it isn't a dedicated deep discharge battery. With a pair of Trojan T145's (240AH) and LED interior lights, we can easily go 6 days in the summer, 3+ when the furnace runs at night only. Getting 1 day w/o power and running the furnace should not be a problem with a set of 6V. They should drop right into place on your existing battery tray on the tongue, although you will need a taller plastic battery box.

One thing to remember is that battery AH capacity decreases rapidly as the temp goes down. at 32F, AH is about 70% of what it is at room temp, by 0F, it' closer to 50% IIRC.

Don't have any info for you on solar.


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## ED_RN

Need to replace my batteries also. Not ready to go to 6V and usually have at least one gen with me. Who makes a true deep cycle 12v battery.


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## Oregon_Camper

First off, you need to ask yourself how much "dry camping" will you do each year? Of those nights...how many nights/days in a row will you be camping? Finally, of those locations where you will be dry camping, will the Outback have enough sunlight directly on it to make the solar worthwhile?

I actually bought solar panels last year and ended up returning them. I had great ideas (from Nathan!!) on how to mount them on my 301BQ and all the great intentions of saving the planet with solar power. Then I started to map out the locations I go...and as it turns out, they are beautiful locations, but that mean TALL/BIG tress and not a lot of direct sunlight. Yes, solar will work without direct sunlight, but the calculations show a huge improvement with direct sun (not to mention rotating them to optimize that even more)

So, back to where I started, but I have a plan! I have a nice Coleman 1850 generator that does a nice job of a charging the Outback, but it won't run the AC...which is fine with me...think I've only had my AC on 2 times. I bring the generator on trips that are >5 days. The places we go are remote, so while there are other campers around, then are not right on top of us....say 1000 feet away?	I have no problems firing up the gen around 1-2pm on the 5th day and letting it run for 4hrs. While it is not as quite as a Honda, I paid $200 for it almost 10 years ago from a guy that freaked out over Y2K.	The thing starts EVERY time on the first pull!!!

I really wonder why your battery won't make it one night? What is on that requires that much power? We drop the heater to around 55 at night, as everyone is snug in their beds and I don't need to keep the trailer warmer than that. Get up in the morning to start coffee...let dog out...I raise it to around 65. Kids can wear a sweatshirt for a bit if they are still cold. We've done it this way since the pop-up days....works great for us. Now, if we are fancy pants camping in the winter with power, we let the fireplace run all the time....nice!

If you answered the question above with only a few nights dry camping (in a row) then I would not suggest the solar route.

If you are going to go for 4-6 days of dry camping, then some 2x6v's Trojan batteries (145's) is the way to go.

If you are going >6 nights of dry camping in a row...then possible solar (if you have the direct sunlight I was talking about above) or a small...low cost generator.

You can also consider replacing the light bulbs with LED's. This will go a LONG way in helping you reduce power consumption. Keep kids from plugging in an inverter to charge stuff.	I think we camp to the extreme of most of the folks here...I bring my cell phone...but there is hardly ever coverage...no laptops...no gameboys...no TV (that is actually removed in the summer. The kids bring their iPods, but i think that is it for electronics. Again, this is how we've always done it...we're camping and the kids play outside the trailer...at night we're around the campfire or playing a card/board game inside if it is raining. I love battleship...remember that game? fun!!....kids hound us to always play Monopoly. For us it is about family time...kids playing gameboys...watching TV...etc, just isn't about family time. Not trying to preach the evil of electronics....because back at home, we are LOADED with them. I just like having an escape from that world when we camp. (Whew..sorry, kinda got on my soap box there)


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## KTMRacer

ED_RN said:


> Need to replace my batteries also. Not ready to go to 6V and usually have at least one gen with me. Who makes a true deep cycle 12v battery.


Trojan

here is a link http://www.trojanbattery.com/Products/GolfCart.aspx scroll down and select T-1275 it's the highest capacity 12V deep cycle I've seen (20 Hr rate is 150AH) . They also have a group 27 or group 31 true deep cycle listed


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## CdnOutback

You should not drain the battery on your vehicle when you are plugged into the vehicle. You should have the starting battery isolated from the trailer charging circuit. Otherwise it will not charge the trailer battery or batteries properly while driving.


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## CamperAndy

CdnOutback said:


> You should not drain the battery on your vehicle when you are plugged into the vehicle. You should have the starting battery isolated from the trailer charging circuit. Otherwise it will not charge the trailer battery or batteries properly while driving.


This depends on the TV, some have isolation relays when the key is turned off, others do not. Check your owners manual.


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## KTMRacer

CamperAndy said:


> You should not drain the battery on your vehicle when you are plugged into the vehicle. You should have the starting battery isolated from the trailer charging circuit. Otherwise it will not charge the trailer battery or batteries properly while driving.


This depends on the TV, some have isolation relays when the key is turned off, others do not. Check your owners manual.
[/quote]

many GM products DON'T have isolation relays on trailer line. Power is applied to the trailer connector even with the ignition key off. Leave the trailer hooke up and guess what... trailer batteries charged with ignition running, but truck battery discharged when camping!!

I wired a 12V HD relay into my silverado to isolate the truck batteries.


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## Oregon_Camper

KTMRacer said:


> I wired a 12V HD relay into my silverado to isolate the truck batteries.


...I just unplug mine.


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## KTMRacer

Oregon_Camper said:


> I wired a 12V HD relay into my silverado to isolate the truck batteries.


...I just unplug mine.








[/quote]
I do also when I remember, butI have a bad habit of forgetting to unplug, so that's why I put a relay in mine!


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## luverofpeanuts

I second the recommendation to switch to LED lights. Having even one normal incandescent 12v bulb takes a fair amount of juice. I lasted from Saturday night to Tuesday morning with my new 12v Interstate group 24 that came with my Sydney. That was with minimal LED light usage and minimal water pump usage... the only only other notable draw is the refrigerator (even when on propane).

If you're dry camping alot the solar options can sure be attractive if you put the money into it. However, for not much more (possibly less!) you can abuy one inverter style generator that can run the A/C, or two small ones that can be put together, or just one small one if you don't want to run the A/C. They're definitely quiet enough, IMHO, to run for an hour to charge up the battery... with the bonus of being able run some A/C only appliances, if needed.

I enjoy learning more about these options.. good topic always.


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## Traveling Tek

Ok, haven't read all the posts yet, but I will respond really quick with some answers.

We usually only dry camp or boondock one night at a time, a weekend tops. We do have a generator, but I hate to run it in a Walmart parking lot. I have the battery that came with my trailer, so it's just a generic 12v deep cycle and it can only run the furnace (lets say 20F outside) for about 4 hours before it's shot. Generally we pull in, sleep, get up shower and leave. So I am not asking for a ton of power, just not wanting to run a generator all night to stay warm. 

We don't generally watch TV while we are boondocking (we do have a 12v TV/DVD if we want to). We do run some lights, but usually not a lot. I think I may have damaged my battery the 2nd week I had it by completely killing it while boondocking for a weekend. So now it's feeling useless. As I stated earlier I even ruined the battery in my van by leaving it plugged in and running the furnace. It killed the battery on the trailer and the van. I would like to know more about this relay thing to protect my GM van from destroying my new $250 battery.

After reading thru I don't think I need solar as we charge while driving, and usually only boon dock while traveling from one city to the next (anyone who reads our blog knows we move every week). We stay for extended periods in campgrounds just cause we like to unhitch the trailer and go explore and you can't really leave a trailer at Walmart for the day (or can you?).

Will I need anything different beside the 2 Trojan 145's? I won't need a new charger or anything like that will I?


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## luverofpeanuts

Traveling Tek said:


> We usually only dry camp or boondock one night at a time, a weekend tops. We do have a generator, but I hate to run it in a Walmart parking lot. I have the battery that came with my trailer, so it's just a generic 12v deep cycle and it can only run the furnace (lets say 20F outside) for about 4 hours before it's shot. Generally we pull in, sleep, get up shower and leave. So I am not asking for a ton of power, just not wanting to run a generator all night to stay warm.


If I were you, I'd be real tempted to simply change your existing battery to a bigger, good quality group 31 sized 12v... that should do you for a night or even weekend for the type of use you describe.

You could even borrow a a friends battery if they're not using, to see if the battery makes a difference.


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## CamperAndy

T145's would be way over kill for your application as you describe the situation. T105's would be more then big enough and save you a lot of coin.


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## Oregon_Camper

Agree with Andy...didn't know your "boondocking" situation when I said 145's. I might even recommend 2 12v's in your situation. They will cost less then 2x6v's (normally)

If you do decide on 6v's...they are wired a bit differently.


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## willingtonpaul

the T145' are bigger than a standard 12V battery, correct ? they will not fit in a standard size battery box ?

and Oregon_ Camper, you and i have the same 301BQ. did you do any modifications to your battery tray to handle the roughly 140lbs of battery with two T145's ? i am thinking i want to go to two T145's, throw a little solar in the mix, and call it a day.....


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## Traveling Tek

luverofpeanuts said:


> We usually only dry camp or boondock one night at a time, a weekend tops. We do have a generator, but I hate to run it in a Walmart parking lot. I have the battery that came with my trailer, so it's just a generic 12v deep cycle and it can only run the furnace (lets say 20F outside) for about 4 hours before it's shot. Generally we pull in, sleep, get up shower and leave. So I am not asking for a ton of power, just not wanting to run a generator all night to stay warm.


If I were you, I'd be real tempted to simply change your existing battery to a bigger, good quality group 31 sized 12v... that should do you for a night or even weekend for the type of use you describe.

You could even borrow a a friends battery if they're not using, to see if the battery makes a difference.

[/quote]

Why would you go that route over 2 6v's? What are the advantages?


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## luverofpeanuts

Traveling Tek said:


> If I were you, I'd be real tempted to simply change your existing battery to a bigger, good quality group 31 sized 12v... that should do you for a night or even weekend for the type of use you describe.
> 
> You could even borrow a a friends battery if they're not using, to see if the battery makes a difference.


Why would you go that route over 2 6v's? What are the advantages?
[/quote]

Well, for the type of 1 or 2 night stays, if you are relatively careful with your power consumption, I think a larger 12v would have enough juice to last you. So, it's much cheaper, less weight, and less hassle than moving to a 2-6v battery setup. Certainly the 2 6v setup will likely have more amp hours... but it just seems to me that unless you are pushing the limits of good 12v consistently, why bother? Personally, I suspect your existing 12v is not working like it should for you. Maybe it's a poor performing battery, or maybe there is another drain on the system. You should be able to last a night... even two, in the manner of use you describe.

When the "factory" battery on my old camper was getting weaker, I demoted it to back up battery and lugged it along as emergency backup. I went to a group 31 battery and saw a pretty good bump battery performance. Age and size of the old battery were a factor in that comparison.

For the most part, I was thinking of simplicity. I like the idea of a 6 volt setup, but we don't dry camp enough to warrant the hassle and expense. I might switch to it someday... just can't really justify it now.


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## Oregon_Camper

willingtonpaul said:


> the T145' are bigger than a standard 12V battery, correct ? they will not fit in a standard size battery box ?
> 
> and Oregon_ Camper, you and i have the same 301BQ. did you do any modifications to your battery tray to handle the roughly 140lbs of battery with two T145's ? i am thinking i want to go to two T145's, throw a little solar in the mix, and call it a day.....


Lakeshore installed the batteries and the box when I bought the trailer. I started with 2x6'v as I knew that was the setup I wanted and then I never had to deal with a lower end factory battery.

Call an RV dealer and tell them what you want...they will know where to get the correct box to hold 6 volt batteries.

I still think you are wasting money on solar...you don't dry camp long enough warrant the expense...IMHO of course.

I'd say, bag the idea of solar and replace the light bulbs with LED's and you'll be MUCH happier.


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## Nathan

luverofpeanuts said:


> If I were you, I'd be real tempted to simply change your existing battery to a bigger, good quality group 31 sized 12v... that should do you for a night or even weekend for the type of use you describe.
> 
> You could even borrow a a friends battery if they're not using, to see if the battery makes a difference.


Why would you go that route over 2 6v's? What are the advantages?
[/quote]

Well, for the type of 1 or 2 night stays, if you are relatively careful with your power consumption, I think a larger 12v would have enough juice to last you. So, it's much cheaper, less weight, and less hassle than moving to a 2-6v battery setup. Certainly the 2 6v setup will likely have more amp hours... but it just seems to me that unless you are pushing the limits of good 12v consistently, why bother? Personally, I suspect your existing 12v is not working like it should for you. Maybe it's a poor performing battery, or maybe there is another drain on the system. You should be able to last a night... even two, in the manner of use you describe.

When the "factory" battery on my old camper was getting weaker, I demoted it to back up battery and lugged it along as emergency backup. I went to a group 31 battery and saw a pretty good bump battery performance. Age and size of the old battery were a factor in that comparison.

For the most part, I was thinking of simplicity. I like the idea of a 6 volt setup, but we don't dry camp enough to warrant the hassle and expense. I might switch to it someday... just can't really justify it now.
[/quote]
I'm voting for this route. A group 31 12V batt will be more than sufficient for your use. It also takes a bigger battery box.... If you like to leave the lights on while people read, etc, then get some LED's as that will greatly reduce the draw. We ran with a Group 24 12V batt last summer. I think we got 3 days with very minimal solar charging more than offset by the fantastic fan running during the day...


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## Traveling Tek

Hrrmmm... Cost isn't really a factor, and we would probably dry camp more if we had more juice. So I think I will most likely go with the two 6volt batteries, although at 72 pounds a piece I would be worried about the tongue weight. I don't think I will bother with solar for right now, although I do like that idea of being self contained. I may do that later on.

When the Zombie Apocalypse happens and there's no gas for the genny it would be nice to see to load my shot gun.







LOL!


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## willingtonpaul

it seems to me that the T145's are about $100 more for the pair over the T105's. so that is short money for the extra capacity.


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## KTMRacer

Traveling Tek said:


> Ok, haven't read all the posts yet, but I will respond really quick with some answers.
> 
> We usually only dry camp or boondock one night at a time, a weekend tops. We do have a generator, but I hate to run it in a Walmart parking lot. I have the battery that came with my trailer, so it's just a generic 12v deep cycle and it can only run the furnace (lets say 20F outside) for about 4 hours before it's shot. Generally we pull in, sleep, get up shower and leave. So I am not asking for a ton of power, just not wanting to run a generator all night to stay warm.
> 
> We don't generally watch TV while we are boondocking (we do have a 12v TV/DVD if we want to). We do run some lights, but usually not a lot. I think I may have damaged my battery the 2nd week I had it by completely killing it while boondocking for a weekend. So now it's feeling useless. As I stated earlier I even ruined the battery in my van by leaving it plugged in and running the furnace. It killed the battery on the trailer and the van. I would like to know more about this relay thing to protect my GM van from destroying my new $250 battery.
> 
> After reading thru I don't think I need solar as we charge while driving, and usually only boon dock while traveling from one city to the next (anyone who reads our blog knows we move every week). We stay for extended periods in campgrounds just cause we like to unhitch the trailer and go explore and you can't really leave a trailer at Walmart for the day (or can you?).
> 
> Will I need anything different beside the 2 Trojan 145's? I won't need a new charger or anything like that will I?


nope, charger will work just fine. Given what you want to do, either dual trojan T-145s or a REAL 12V deep discharge only group 31 (Trojan makes one rated at 150AH) should do you just fine. Generally, the dual trojan 6V will last 6-10 years with good care, so in the long run may be less expensive than the common 12V marine/starting batteries often used. Don't have any idea on the cost of the Trojan 12V or it's expected life. IMHO I stay away from any battery that lists CCA (cold cranking amps) that means they used thinner plates and somewhat different plate chemistry to make it useable as a starting battery, which works against it's life as a deep discharge battery.

As to the relay. Most RV stores sell a battery relay used by many mfg that is a cylindrical case, bare metal maybe 1.5" dia, 2" long. Two large studs for the switched line, two smaller studs for the 12V relay coil and ground. $<20IIRC, rated at something like 50A or more. What I did is under the hood cut the 12v always hot wire feeding the 7 pin connector and ran it through the relay. Then I found a wire in the fusebox that was HOT only in the ignition RUN position and used that to switch on the relay, and then grounded the other side of the relay coil. That way the only time the TV battery charges the trailer battery is when the engine is running.


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## Traveling Tek

Awesome, thanks. I am going to have to get a relay and get that done.

I am not sure what group 31 batteries are. I am a battery noob.


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## luverofpeanuts

Traveling Tek said:


> I am not sure what group 31 batteries are. I am a battery noob.


Have you checked this out? Great for Newbs and Old Hacks alike! It's a good read.

http://www.marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm


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## wolverine

I switched to 2 6 volt batteries last year and I only dry camp a couple of times a year, but it happens to be cold out when I do. I went with the Sam's Club 6 volt batteries, which cost around $70 each. I figure I could buy 2 sets of these for the cost of 1 set of Trojan's. So far they have worked great for me.


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## outback loft

Group size 31 batteries are a large battery. I am actually running a large bank of these along the sides of my trailer underneath the skirting. I needed to go the route of 12 volt batteries since I have 14 of them right now. Two are on the tongue and 6 on each side of the trailer. I only need this many to be able to run the a/c otherwise two of these batteries will last me around a week a piece. I currently have a few battery selector switches installed, one selects the bank on either side of the trailer, and the other selects between the two batteries up front.


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## Traveling Tek

Going out today to check costs of new batteries. So far from what I see online, it's almost same price to got group 31 or two 6 volts and two 6's would give me better power and life.


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## hautevue

Outbackloft says he has 12 Group 31 batts so he can run the a/c. Wow.

Group 31 batteries weigh around 63 pounds each. 12 of them is 756 pounds. That's a significant percentage of the total cargo carrying capacity of a lot of TTs.

Wow. 750 pounds of batteries.


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## Traveling Tek

hautevue said:


> Outbackloft says he has 12 Group 31 batts so he can run the a/c. Wow.
> 
> Group 31 batteries weigh around 63 pounds each. 12 of them is 756 pounds. That's a significant percentage of the total cargo carrying capacity of a lot of TTs.
> 
> Wow. 750 pounds of batteries.


Could have sworn he told me he actually had 14 of them.  But yeah, asked him about it and he said he can feel the extra weight.


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## outback loft

hautevue said:


> Outbackloft says he has 12 Group 31 batts so he can run the a/c. Wow.
> 
> Group 31 batteries weigh around 63 pounds each. 12 of them is 756 pounds. That's a significant percentage of the total cargo carrying capacity of a lot of TTs.
> 
> Wow. 750 pounds of batteries.


Well I wish the group size 31's I have weighed 63 pounds each. They are actually 80 a piece, and I do actually have 14 of them, 6 on either side of the trailer and 2 on the tongue. I had to upgrade to heavier axles because of this. I was actually over my cargo capacity once I added the last two. When the batteries start to lose their capacity I will go back to just the two batteries on the tongue. It is a nice little trick to be able to have the a/c running without a generator or power hookup. I only ran the a/c this year maybe three nights, and then a handful of times to show people that it was possible, other than that I don't really need it.


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## KTMRacer

Traveling Tek said:


> Going out today to check costs of new batteries. So far from what I see online, it's almost same price to got group 31 or two 6 volts and two 6's would give me better power and life.


probably way more 6V sold for golf carts and RV's than 12V deep discharge group 31's, so economy of scale comes into play. Also more competition in the marketplace. I'm sure you won't be disapointed with 6V's, probably end up adicted to the extra power!


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## Traveling Tek

Ok, well trying to find the 6 volts golf cart batteries appears to be an awful chore. I hit hit up like 3 places and called 2 that advertised Trojans on their websites, but no one had any in stock. I was told Sams Club has some cheaper ones, but I don't have a membership. I have one other place near here to try (I am currently in Baton Rouge, LA) that I saw on google maps. Maybe I will get lucky.


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## CamperAndy

Costco has 6 vdc batteries from Johnson Controls. That is what I have and they work fine.


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## BoaterDan

Did you check places like Cabella's, Gander Mtn. etc? I know they carry several deep cycles of various group sizes, but I don't remember if I saw 6v there.

If you really end up being unable to find them, two 12v deep cycle will run the furnace for a night. They're probably a bit cheaper. The twin 6v is a better solution, but twin 12v is an adequate option for your particular needs.


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## KTMRacer

Traveling Tek said:


> Ok, well trying to find the 6 volts golf cart batteries appears to be an awful chore. I hit hit up like 3 places and called 2 that advertised Trojans on their websites, but no one had any in stock. I was told Sams Club has some cheaper ones, but I don't have a membership. I have one other place near here to try (I am currently in Baton Rouge, LA) that I saw on google maps. Maybe I will get lucky.


try calling any place that sells or services golf carts, or even a golf course. I'd bet they have them! Also most any RV sales place with service will have 6Vs in stock, maybe more expensive than sam's etc. Baton Rouge is big enough that you should be able to find some at a reasonable price.


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## thefulminator

Call a local golf course and ask them where they buy the batteries for their carts.


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## Traveling Tek

Thanks for the tips guys. I will give that a shot.


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## Nathan

Campingworld sells 6V's too.


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## CdnOutback

Call the Interstate Battery distributor... He will have them for sure. I believe you said you were in Baton Rouge?

http://corporate.interstatebatteries.com/www/distributors/greater_baton_rouge/default.asp

Robert Dillard is a really good guy. He has been the distributor there for about 15 years. Before that he worked in the head office.

Len


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## gonewild

In which states do BJ's and Costco carry 6v batteries?







I have been looking all over the northeast with no success. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I will be going across country again this summer, so location should not be a problem. Just for reference, I live in NY.

Thanks....


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## KTMRacer

gonewild said:


> In which states do BJ's and Costco carry 6v batteries?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been looking all over the northeast with no success. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I will be going across country again this summer, so location should not be a problem. Just for reference, I live in NY.
> 
> Thanks....


At least for Costco, I think it's hit and miss. The Costco closest to us doesn't carry 6V batteries, but one a few miles further away does.


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## TwoElkhounds

gonewild said:


> In which states do BJ's and Costco carry 6v batteries?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been looking all over the northeast with no success. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I will be going across country again this summer, so location should not be a problem. Just for reference, I live in NY.
> 
> Thanks....


Not sure where in New York you live? The Costco in Albany has 6Volt batteries, I was just down looking at them a few days ago. I am going to go check out BJ's this weekend and see what they have.

Once I decide what to get, I will need to find somebody with a membership that I can take with me to buy them.









DAN


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## gonewild

TwoElkhounds said:


> In which states do BJ's and Costco carry 6v batteries?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been looking all over the northeast with no success. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I will be going across country again this summer, so location should not be a problem. Just for reference, I live in NY.
> 
> Thanks....


Not sure where in New York you live? The Costco in Albany has 6Volt batteries, I was just down looking at them a few days ago. I am going to go check out BJ's this weekend and see what they have.

Once I decide what to get, I will need to find somebody with a membership that I can take with me to buy them.









DAN
[/quote]

Dan,

I live on Long Island, but pass through Albany each time I visit my sister in Burlington, VT. I will be passing through on my return trip Tuesday 2/23. Where in Albany is the Costco? If timing works out you are welcome to use my membership.. It will most likely be late afternoon/early evening.

Floyd


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## TwoElkhounds

gonewild said:


> In which states do BJ's and Costco carry 6v batteries?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been looking all over the northeast with no success. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I will be going across country again this summer, so location should not be a problem. Just for reference, I live in NY.
> 
> Thanks....


Not sure where in New York you live? The Costco in Albany has 6Volt batteries, I was just down looking at them a few days ago. I am going to go check out BJ's this weekend and see what they have.

Once I decide what to get, I will need to find somebody with a membership that I can take with me to buy them.









DAN
[/quote]

Dan,

I live on Long Island, but pass through Albany each time I visit my sister in Burlington, VT. I will be passing through on my return trip Tuesday 2/23. Where in Albany is the Costco? If timing works out you are welcome to use my membership.. It will most likely be late afternoon/early evening.

Floyd
[/quote]

Sorry, I meant to say Sam's Club. I used to live in the Northwest where we had Costco's, now I am in the habit of calling all of these places Costco and I can't seem to break it!

The Sam's club is in Latham, exit 6 off of I87 (Northway). They have 6 volt batteries priced at around $70. I am gearing up to go buy a couple myself. I don't have a membership to Sam's Club, but I think it might pay to go get one just for the batteries.

DAN


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## TwoElkhounds

outback loft said:


> Group size 31 batteries are a large battery. I am actually running a large bank of these along the sides of my trailer underneath the skirting. I needed to go the route of 12 volt batteries since I have 14 of them right now. Two are on the tongue and 6 on each side of the trailer. I only need this many to be able to run the a/c otherwise two of these batteries will last me around a week a piece. I currently have a few battery selector switches installed, one selects the bank on either side of the trailer, and the other selects between the two batteries up front.


Do you have any pictures on how you mounted the batteries behind the trailer skirts? I am thinking of going with four 6 volts to increase the AHr of my battery bank. I have been burning through Group 27 12 volt batteries, every pair I have purchased have not lasted more than a couple years. The end of last season, my batteries would only last a few hours before I neeed to recharge. Sucks to have to always pull out the generator.

We do a ton a dry camping and are hard on the batteries. I am thinking two 6 Volt batteries on the tongue and maybe two more mounted behind the trailer skirts? Of course wired to provide 12V. Thoughts?

DAN


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## Traveling Tek

I am in Florida and a place up the road has Trojan T-105 for $99 each and Deka GC25 for $129 each. From doing a quick search it looks like the GC25 is equiv to a T-125, but weighs just a touch more.

GC25, 488 Min @25Amps, 132 Min @75Amps, 235Ah @20Amps, 67 Lbs

Has anyone used these batteries before? Should I hold out for the slightly more powerful and heavier T-145's?


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## Nathan

I'd think the 125 equivalent is plenty. I'm currently running the interstate equivalent and am very happy with the performance. It didn't sound like you were looking for a week of dry camping, plus the difference of 235 to 265 AH is small compared with the jump from an 85AH (or whatever your base battery was rated at....)








Acutally, then even the T105 at 225 AH is a big step forward.


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## Traveling Tek

Thanks. I picked them up. Will get them hooked up tomorrow. Should I get a new charger? My next step will be solar panels.


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## Nathan

Traveling Tek said:


> Thanks. I picked them up. Will get them hooked up tomorrow. Should I get a new charger? My next step will be solar panels.


I'd leave the standard charger in the trailer. That will do a decent job. Regarding solar panels, I just bought a new charge controller that is a MPPT. My understanding is the base charge controllers don't do a good job, the PWM charge controllers do better, but the MPPT is the latest way to maximize the energy that you put into the batteries. We'll see if I notice the difference this summer.


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## Traveling Tek

Sounds like greek to me. 

BTW these batteries are doing the trick. Furnace ran all night and the indicator still says 2/3 full. Nice!

How often should I check water levels in these batteries?


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## Nathan

Traveling Tek said:


> Sounds like greek to me.
> 
> BTW these batteries are doing the trick. Furnace ran all night and the indicator still says 2/3 full. Nice!
> 
> How often should I check water levels in these batteries?


I typically check once a month during the summer just to make sure. They shouldn't lose too much.


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## KTMRacer

Traveling Tek said:


> Thanks. I picked them up. Will get them hooked up tomorrow. Should I get a new charger? My next step will be solar panels.


From your description of use, I'd stay with the WFCO unit that is in your trailer. They are known for doing a good job of not overcharging the battery and are quite and reasonably reliable. The only drawback to the WFCO is that it seldom goes into boost mode, but since you seldom boondock and usually end up with someplace to get shore power afterwards, needing 12+ hours to recharge vs. 2-3 shouldn't be an issue for you. If the original unit ever fails, simply replace the guts with a Progressive dynamics retrofit unit.

I'd check water every few weeks to start with, and if no water loss is noticed, go to once a month or more. The reason for every few weeks is that you are basically a "full timer" and you may need water more often than many of us "part timers" do. When we have been hooked to shore power for a week or more I haven't used water, so you should be ok. Exposing plates to air is a big No No, easy way to shorten battery life, and it should be easy for you to check water level.


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## Traveling Tek

Heres my post on the battery update.

http://travelingtek....attery-upgrade/

And thanks for the updates on how to use them.  You guys rock.


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## gonewild

Hey guys, I understand how DC and AC systems work and I recently purchased 2 6v batteries. I know that the onboard charger will work fine, but will the built in battery meter work with the increased capacity?

Thanks,

Floyd


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## CamperAndy

gonewild said:


> Hey guys, I understand how DC and AC systems work and I recently purchased 2 6v batteries. I know that the onboard charger will work fine, but will the built in battery meter work with the increased capacity?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Floyd


The meter works on the voltage level of the battery system, not on the amperage available. You can only ever use it as a rough guide.


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## BoaterDan

ED_RN said:


> Need to replace my batteries also. Not ready to go to 6V and usually have at least one gen with me. Who makes a true deep cycle 12v battery.


Lot's of people make 12v deep cycle. (True deep cycle, not hybrid crap still rated in CCA.)

Walmart sells a 12v deep cycle that is most likely adequate for your needs.


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