# Weighed My Truck Today



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Weighed my truck ONLY (too lazy to hook up trailer before Spring Rally on Wed). With full fuel, WD hitch and bars in the back, me and DW. Pretty close to travel set up. Here is the result: Steer axle 4400 lbs; Drive Axle 3340. Total Weight 7740 lbs. If I add a generous 360 lbs for 2 Golden Retrievers and 2 additional passengers, I get a GVW of 8100. MFR GVWR is 9200. this leaves me with a disappointing 1100 lbs of tongue weight for the trailer. Is that correct?? So, I pull a 28krs, max weight is 7600lbs. Multiply by 12% and tongue weight should be about 912 lbs. Total GVW is up to 9012lbs. Does not exceed the mfr GVWR, but does not leave much safety margin either. Combined weight rating is 22000lbs, and I am at 15700, so there is some of room there. I will weigh the trailer and truck together on Wed. I have a question or 2 for the experts ( and non-experts if you want to reply). 1) How do you get the trailer tongue weight using CAT scales? Do you unhook, level the trailer and get steer axle (tongue) and drive axle (rear axles); do you unhook WD bars and subtract the unweighted rear axle? 2) Do the numbers above look right and did I use the right formulas? I am a little disappointed that I am so close to GVWR. Why am I maxxing out the weight capacity of this vehicle. All vehilce info is in my signature. Thanks in advance for your ideas!!
david


----------



## dmbcfd (Sep 8, 2004)

The most accurate method is to weigh the actual truck and trailer. You may find that the trailer is heavier than you thought.

I would hitch up the trailer and weight distribution bars as you would normally. I would fill the tanks to whatever level you expect to travel with, and then load cargo into the trailer as you would for a camping trip. Then go back to the scales and weigh the front truck axle, then both truck axles, then the rear truck axle. You can compare these values to the previous numbers to see how the trailer changes them. After weighing the truck, pull forward and get both trailer axles on the scales with the truck off, but not unhitched. Let the rear bumper overhang the scales to be ready for the last step. Adding all the axles together will give you your actual gross combined weight.

You should make sure the trailer is not overloaded. The easiest way is to remove the weight distribution bars and unhitch the trailer. Now with the tongue jack and both axles on the scales, you'll have the actual trailer weight.

If the scales are like the one I use, you can get the whole rig on at once, but you may have to make more moves, hookup and unhook more to get individual axles.

Good luck,

Steve


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Something is wrong with somebody's scales. My '06 Silverado CC 2500HD with Duramax/Allison weighed 7220 wi 3/4 tank of gas, myself and my son, (4300 front, 2920 Rear) . Puts it at about 6900 empty, that weight was taken back in January.

I also weighed my truck today with the 5'er attached and came up with a GVW of 8540 on the 2 axles of the truck. , 4140 Front, 4400 rear. So it would seem I'm getting consistent weights.

Calculated tongue was 1320.

Think you should try again as your about 400 lbs overweight on the rear axle from my weigh-ins.

I wouldn't worry about weighing the trailer alone on the scales. Your always pulling it so don't see how weighing the trailer alone is relevant.

To calculate tongue weight make sure the trailer axles are on the same weight pad. Then you should have seperate weight pads for the front and rear axle. Take the tongue weight from the difference of the truck axles before the trailer and after the trailer.


----------



## Crawfish (Sep 14, 2005)

Same here Mike. I weight my truck several months ago and it weighted 7200lbs.

Leon


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Crawfish said:


> Same here Mike. I weight my truck several months ago and it weighted 7200lbs.
> 
> Leon


Well, I did have the WD bars and hitch in the back. They weigh 96 lbs (52 for hitch and 22 each for the bars). Also, I have a camper shell (couple hundred lbs) and a tool box with junk...I mean stuff in it, probably 100-150lbs. That gets me close to you all.
NJMikeC, 
If you don't weigh the trailer alone, how do you know how much it weighs by itself? About weighing it,
when both trailer axles are on one pad , I will have separate pads for front and rear axles of the truck, right? 
then I take the difference of rear axle between trailer and no trailer to get the tongue weight. Is that right? Do I do this with the WD bars connected or not?
Thanks for the help!!
david


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

You already know what the truck weighs. Now, bring the trailer to the scales, with the truck loaded the same as when you weighed it last, and the trailer loaded for camping.

step 1: weigh the truck, if your using a scale with several small pads, you can do each axle separately. The increase will give you the tongue wgt.

ex. when weighed alone the truck weighs 7000 (for easy of math), and the with the trailer hitched, the truck weighs 7600, then your tongue wgt is 600#.

step 2: pull the truck forward to get the trailer axles on the scale. Now with all 4 axles...this is the total combined weight.

step 3: pull the truck off the scales, but leave the trailer axles on the pad...this will give you the axle wgt. of the trailer.

step 4: add the step 3 wgt to the tongue wgt from step 1. This is total trailer wgt.

Ex:

step 1: tongue wgt is 600#

step 2: combined wgt is 14000#

step 3: TT axle wgt is 5400#

step 4: 5400+600=6000#

This is oversimplified, and if you want to determine each axles wgt, then obviously you would need to weigh each axle separately, but my local scale has only a single pad, and is at the local stone yard, so this is the way I do it.

Tim


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

hatcityhosehauler said:


> You already know what the truck weighs. Now, bring the trailer to the scales, with the truck loaded the same as when you weighed it last, and the trailer loaded for camping.
> 
> step 1: weigh the truck, if your using a scale with several small pads, you can do each axle separately. The increase will give you the tongue wgt.
> 
> ...


Tim,
Thanks for the explanation. simplified is what I need. the CAT scales have 3 or 4 pads so I can get TV and TT all on at one time and get axle weights for each. Then just follow your steps. Is the tongue weight really just the difference between truck weight with and without the trailer?? I think I can follow your steps. If it is that easy, no wonder the weighmaster looked at me like I was nuts when I asked if I could unhook, weigh, hook up, move, unhook,etc... there's that Ford commericial again!!
david








http://www.catscale.com/howtoweigh.cfm


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Yep.

There are five points where the weight of your Outback is transferred to the ground...each of the wheels, and the tongue. If your tongue is connected to the truck, then that wgt is being transferred to the truck, and then to the ground through the 4 wheels of the truck.

Good luck.

Tim


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Beachbum,

Tim got you all straightened up. And sure you can weigh the trailer but it was never a concern for me because the only water I ever carry is 5 gallons or so for potty stops. I suppose if you would travel with one or all tanks full then it would be interesting to get the trailer weight.

I give you full credit for weighing though. Always good to see somebody going through that as it gives you a lot of insight. For instance you now realize the limitations of a 3/4 Ton Diesel. The Motor trans combination is about a 500 pound weight penalty and that certainly creates a limitation as to the size of the 5'er you could pull. Also tells you how much firewood, generators, etc you can take.

BTW your not going to break GVWR with only the Kargaroo with one bike in it. Throw another bike in the back of the truck and that is a different matter.


----------



## dougdogs (Jul 31, 2004)

I think I see a mistake in your first post. Did you just add your front and rear axle weights to get that total 7740 number??

I have never seen a total weight equal, the same as each axle added, before.


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

dougdogs said:


> I think I see a mistake in your first post. Did you just add your front and rear axle weights to get that total 7740 number??
> 
> I have never seen a total weight equal, the same as each axle added, before.


dougdogs,
Here is what the weight certificate says: Steer Axle-4400lbs; Drive Axle-3340lbs; Trailer Axle-00 lbs. (did not have trailer with me) Gross Weight-7740 lbs. Is there another way to calculate the gross wt of only the vehicle?

NJMikeC,
We just carry beach toys, chairs, boards, bicycles, firewood, shade etc. No gasoline toys. So, I am really expecting to be OK on trailer weight. We camp "primitive" a lot, so I do keep fresh water full (50gals). About 400lbs, right? I do want to know what I am pulling and the combined weight. Also, I will be able to tell how much other junk I can load, as you pointed out. Once the weights start getting above 5k, I think it is necessary to weigh just so I know what I am pulling. I pull an 18ft center console boat some and I am not really as concerned about that, but I do have the weight calculations figured. I pulled p-u's for the last 13-14 years and never paid attention. Although the last one, a Niagara, required a brake controller, I never calculated the weights. DW has seen me working on this for the last day or so and thinks the truck might not be big enough. You phrased it nicely; big enough, but does have limits. Can't imagine pulling this with a 1500 (although with the right set-up, the mfr says it can be done!!)
Thanks again everybody for the help. I will post the trailer weight Wed night from the Spring Rally in Va Beach. It will take me longer to drive to the scale than it will to get to the CG. But hey, I could use the practice..Camping season is here!!
david


----------



## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

I am not a sworn officer of the weight police, but I am glad to hear you are hitting the scales with your rig. After a trip to the scales early last year, I gained some valuable info and found a few things I needed to address.

When I weighed the Burb and OB last year, the CAT scales that we used had at least 4 pads (maybe more). Steer Axle on #1, Drive axle on #2. Trailer axles on #3, got the weight. I then pulled forward, dropped the OB and weighed the Burb alone.

(Steer + drive) on pass 1 â€" (Steer + Drive) on pass 2 = tongue weight

The difference on the individual axles between the 2 passes lets you know how much weight is being distributed by your hitch.

I found that when hitched, I was not getting any additional weight to the front axle (I was actually taking weight off of the front axle when hitched







). Even with the poorly adjusted hitch, I did not exceed the rear axle rating but it was close. I also found a very low tongue weight percentage - which explained why I had a sway problem the time I towed with full Black and Grey tanks







.

I adjusted the Equal-i-zer hitch by adding 3 more washers to change the hitch head angle and began to pack with as much weight forward as I could. I was close to the GVWR on the Burb, so I didnâ€™t want to use much water in the fresh tank to add tongue weight.

I plan to roll through the same CAT scale this week on the way to VA Beach.


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Humpty said:


> I am not a sworn officer of the weight police, but I am glad to hear you are hitting the scales with your rig. After a trip to the scales early last year, I gained some valuable info and found a few things I needed to address.
> 
> When I weighed the Burb and OB last year, the CAT scales that we used had at least 4 pads (maybe more). Steer Axle on #1, Drive axle on #2. Trailer axles on #3, got the weight. I then pulled forward, dropped the OB and weighed the Burb alone.
> 
> ...


Hey Humpty,
Thanks for "weighing in" on this. We will be neighbors at the spring Rally. We live in Currituck, so the CG is close to us. I will go to the scale first (in Suffolk) and bring the info with me. When we pulled the unit home from Lakeshore, I was impressed with handling. We went to Cape Hatteras weekend before last and although not bad, the handling was a little sketchy. Not white knuckle, but I knew the trailer was loaded. The scales (and good guidance) will clear some things up for me.
david


----------



## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

David:

I will hit the scales on the way and we can compare numbers. If you have the time, get a front, rear and trailer axles when hooked, then drop the trailer and get a front and rear on the truck alone. If the scales have multiple pads, it is pretty quick and easy (especially if you have a power tongue jack).

I am not sure exactly what your truck should weigh alone, but I would not be surprised to learn that you didn't have a lot of 'payload' available. Crew cab, 4x4 and diesel options eat a lot of your payload capacity.

See ya Thursday night!

Chris


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Humpty said:


> David:
> 
> I will hit the scales on the way and we can compare numbers. If you have the time, get a front, rear and trailer axles when hooked, then drop the trailer and get a front and rear on the truck alone. If the scales have multiple pads, it is pretty quick and easy (especially if you have a power tongue jack).
> 
> ...


OK I can do that. They charge a buck for a re-weigh, which I'll do on the truck. We were able to get away on Wed, so we'll be there when you arrive on Thurs. I wanted to get there early so no one would gawk when I backed in.. but alas, they are all pull thru in Super Site area. So much for the entertainment. lol
david


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

I thought I'd write this while we wait for the snow to stop at the Spring Rally in VA Beach. Can you believe it!!
Anyway, results from the scales:
First weigh with the trailer attached Steer Axle--4140
Drive Axle---4840
Trailer Axle-- 6940
Gross Wt----15920

second Weigh, with no trailer Steer Axle--4420
Drive Axle-- 3520
Gross Weight-- 7940 
It looks like GVW of TV (w/trlr) is 8980; tongue wt is 1040

So it looks like steer axle is -180lbs and rear axle is +1330. So WD system is not working. With help from Humpty and Rubrhammer, here's what we did. Measured---raised hitch ball to as close as possible to trailer hitch. It was about 2" low. Up one hole on hitch shank. Raised L-brackets 2 holes. They were in 4th from top and now are 6th from top. Hooked up and re-measured. No Load on front was measured at 37 1/2"; rear was 391/4". With load, front was 37" and rear was 39". WD bars look very slightly angles up toward rear of trailer and there is some curve, indicated some load. The whole thing just looks and hooks up differently than the before set up. Can't wait to try it out. I am expecting a positive difference in the handling. I will weigh on the way home tomorrow and hopefully see the numbers showing some wieght on the front.
Hope it stops snowing soon!!
david


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Just so surprised at your weights. They are the same as my 32' 5'er, guess I pack lightly. IF you follow the equalizer directions then your hitch ball can actually even stand to be a little higher then the trailer hitch. As it was with the ball too low then for sure you couldn't even load the bars so I believe you didn't have any weight transfer. With weight transfer you will also bring a little weight on to the trailer axle hence off the truck.


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

So here are the numbers with the ball moved up, even with trailer hitch. One more hole puts it about 2" above hitch and the trailer is high at the tongue.
without trailer ---Steer axle----4380
Drive Axle-- 3440
Gross wt-- -- 7820

With trailer ---Steer Axle--4340
----Drive Axle- 4440 
Trailer Axle-- 6800
Gross (Combined?)-15580.
I have no idea where all the weight is coming from. We have no motorcycles, no ATV no gas powered stuff. Just camping gear..couple of stoves, shade, bicycles, trailer stuff. Nothing unusual, to my way of thinking. Anyway, still negative on the front end. Next step will be to flip the shank and get the ball higher by one hole. At least with the last set up, I could see some load on the bars.
I am open to ideas (but, not the Hensley idea at this point).
The Spring Rally in VA Beach was great, even with the snow. Pictures forthcoming!!
david


----------



## tuckerroo (Mar 29, 2007)

That makes me a little bit concerned about my truck pulling my 28KRS. I've got a 2005 Chevy 2500 HD ext cab. 4wd with 6.0L Gasser. I've got 2 ATVs that I am going to be hauling. A Yamaha Kodiak 450 (550lbs) in the cargo area and a Kawasaki Prairie 650 (660 lbs) in the bed of the truck. I am hoping that I wil not be overloading my truck. Guess that I will have go get everything loaded and find some where to weigh it. Anyone wlse trying to haul 2 ATVs with a GM 3/4 ton truck?


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Tuckerroo,

You will definetely have to weight but you also may just make it. The 3/4 Ton diesels come with a 500 lb weight penalty due to the Diesel and Allison. It's going to be close!

Get the truck weighted with a full load of people fuel and ATV and see where you are at . Then use BeachBum's tongue weight or even a little more. BTW ,I think you are quoting dry weight for the ATV's. Each will likely top 600lbs.

You guys weighing the Roos are doing a great service to other Roo owners. They look to be a different beast for sure.

Mike C


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

tuckerroo said:


> That makes me a little bit concerned about my truck pulling my 28KRS. I've got a 2005 Chevy 2500 HD ext cab. 4wd with 6.0L Gasser. I've got 2 ATVs that I am going to be hauling. A Yamaha Kodiak 450 (550lbs) in the cargo area and a Kawasaki Prairie 650 (660 lbs) in the bed of the truck. I am hoping that I wil not be overloading my truck. Guess that I will have go get everything loaded and find some where to weigh it. Anyone wlse trying to haul 2 ATVs with a GM 3/4 ton truck?


Hey Tuckerroo, 
My truck has GVWR of 9200 lbs. It is diesel with the Allison trans, so as stated, there is a weight penalty there. I have a camper shell (200lbs), had the 2 golden rets (80lbs ea) and the truck box with tools etc (150lbs.) With full load of fuel and travel ready, with the tongue wt (1040), I am at 8980 lbs. Couple hundred lbs under GVWR. I cannot figure how, with no gas toys, I am overweight on the trailer. the front is designed to carry up to 1000lbs. that does not leave mcuh room for any other gear. I guess the people that carry HD's (800lbs) carry nothing else. Looks like I'm going to weigh everything I have loaded.
david


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Beachbum, it looks like your still taking weight off the front axle with the WD setup. You might need to increase the hitch head angle some more, so that the tongue wgt is distributed equally to the front and rear axles of the truck.

Tim


----------



## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

Wow â€" I canâ€™t believe that you are still taking weight off the Front Axle







. Your adjusted hitch setup â€˜lookedâ€™ perfect.

Tim is right â€" Hitch Head Angle is the adjustment to make. You need to add a couple more washers to the hitch head. (I should have given you a few of my extras). You can also adjust the L-Bracket height again, but others here have posted that nothing really helped until they added more washers to the head.

If that doesnâ€™t work, I would consider changing out the OEM receiver hitch for a Putnam Class V hitch.

A question I have for other Equal-i-zer owners is â€" how many washers are you using?? I am using 5 now (7 with the Burb), beachbum has 6.


----------



## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

Still not transferring any weight to the front axle. Would try adjusting the hitch head angle a little more too.

Something to keep in the back of your mind is that the OEM round tube hitch does a poor job of transferring weight to the front of the truck frame because it flexes a bit when you load the spring bars.

I hate to send you over the the dark side forum (RVnet.com) but there is a lot of good information concerning the OEM hitch failing and or performing poorly when subjected to the normal stresses found in a WD hitch system like you are using on your 28KRS.

I installed a Putnam XDR Class V on my truck because od the problems found with the OEM hitch and heavier tongue weight trailers. Should be able to get a Putnam hitch for less than $150.00 delivered to your door. http://www.performancecenter.com/ Took me about 20-30 minutes without a floor jack or a lift to install.

Map Guy


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Feel like I'm beating a dead horse, but here goes...
Actually, with the new set up I did add weight, but not enough, as everyone observed. Still light by 40lbs in the front. However, the axles are almost evenly weighted. Does that make a difference??
How many washers can I add safely? I have 6 now and I'm not really sure how many the pin can hold.
Regarding the TV... GVW is OK at 8980lbs travel ready. Rear axle rating is 6090, so I'm OK there. Tongue weight is rated for 1500lbs with WD (does it have to be working??lol), I'm at 1040 lbs, so OK there. GCWR is 22000 and I'm at 15,600 +/- Tow capacity is 12,000 (limited by hitch) minus 20% safety margin puts load at 9600lbs, and I am OK there. So the TV looks OK except for the weight transfer. I could tell a difference witht the front being light by ONLY 40lbs as opposed to the -180 I had before. I'll try the extra washers. Where can I get them?? Are the "hardened" ones special? Next I will e-mail Equal-i-zer and see what they suggest. What about the hitch height? Will ball being above the TT hitch coupler make any difference? Do others just hook up and go and not pay attention to this stuff??

On to the TT which appears to be overloaded by 300 lbs +/-. I took everything out of the front garage and weighed it. 810 lbs. 20 trips, Harley owners do it in one trip!! Below recommended weight for that area. Below the 1200lbs stated GCC in the trailer, which is different from the brochure. Brochure says GVWR 7600;Dry wt 5685, carrying capacity 1915. But, the sticker in the TT says (and this is the one that counts), GVWR 7635; UVW(unloaded veh wt)-5960. leaves a carrying capacity of 1675, which is 240lbs less than lit. Of that 1675, they subtract 50 lbs fresh water (415), 1 propane (60lbs), leaving a 1200 lb carrying capacity. We all know that there are 2 propane bottles, minus another 60; I have 2 6V batts, minus 50lbs. So now, we are down to 1090pounds for the garage area. I have no clue how you could put 1000lbs in the garage area and not make this unit overweight. Since it is set up this way, it is probably not a major issue. I carry the fresh water, so some people could trade that for other weight. I will try to travel with other tanks empty. So that will help.
Anyway, the numbers are beginning to make some sense to me now. I have heard about the factory hitch being crappy. I'm thinking the numbers are good enough for now. thanks everyone for your input and ideas!!
david


----------



## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

David -
Great work here to figure out your individual setup. Other 28KRS owners will benefit from your work!
Most, except here at OB.com, would not go to this effort to "know" if all their weight factors are within spec. 
Knowing all this gives you understanding of the weakness / strengths of your combination.

Map Guy


----------



## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

I suspect that most just 'hook up and go'. Your set up looked right on based on the measurements you took.

As for the washers, yes they are hardened so they are different from a common washer. I got a hand full from my dealer. They install a bunch of these hitches, so they have a bunch laying around. PM me your address, and I will send you a few.

I do not think ball height will do anything to transfer more weight. If I were you, I might try 1 or 2 more washers, but not really be too concerned. You are well under your weight ratings.

Were you in the truck when the attendant got the weight? The reason I ask is because at teh scale, I had to get out of the truck and jump to press the call button. If you were standing on the front scale for one weight and off the scale for the other, you could be changing the numbers (my weight would have more effect







)


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Humpty said:


> I suspect that most just 'hook up and go'. Your set up looked right on based on the measurements you took.
> 
> As for the washers, yes they are hardened so they are different from a common washer. I got a hand full from my dealer. They install a bunch of these hitches, so they have a bunch laying around. PM me your address, and I will send you a few.
> 
> ...


 Yes, I would hop back in the truck after I pushed the button. Tried to be consistent with each weigh. BUT....I did notice when I got home....that one L-bracket.....was ......one hole lower than the other. I cannot believe my QC guys did not catch that. One of us is named Gilligan. Do you think that will help me avoid buying a new hitch?? Nah, I did not think so. It will probably balance out that other 40 lbs, so the front axle is most likely the same weight as when not hooked up. the other thought I had was to just remove those two bolts that connect the factory hitch to the bumper. Just kidding!!
At least the TV is not maxxed out!!
david


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Man, I hope this thread is at the end.
So, here's the new info...Tec/salesman at a RV dealer I went to looking for "hardend washers" talked with me some about the set up problems. I told him the weights and the measurements and he said things sounded fine to him. Drives good/tows good, so go for it. "Overanalyzing" was the word he used a couple of times. Obsessing is the word DW has used.
Called Equalizer Co. and spoke to tech Josh about the set-up. He got all the relevent info and said I was "close" that I needed a couple more washers. He says that rather than looking at the axle weights, they focus more on compression or "squat" measurements. They should be more or less equal in front and rear. The difference between front and rear should remain constant i.e.-front height 37", rear height 39". 2" difference should remain the same when TT is hooked up. Makes sense. ALSO, he said the only way to get accurate tongue weight , is to disconnect trailer and weigh only the tongue. When hooked to hitch, there is 1/3 weight transfer back to the trailer axles. That impacts my current tongue weight calculations and it appears they are low. Tongue weight is probably closer to 1200lbs, according to Josh, and he uses the fact that L-brackets are on highest setting and hitch head is almost as far back as possible. That makes sense..if you have maxxed out 1200lbs settings, you probably have 1200lbs on it.
The upshot of all of this is that this model trailer looks good on paper and may be designed to carry 1000lbs in front cargo area, but you will max out a 12K hitch on just the tongue weight. I don't see how a Harley owner will be able to move some of the load to the back.
So, do I go back to the scales and get the REAL tongue weight? This is probably not worth a special trip. I will get washers, re-do the hitch head, re-measure and then maybe go the the scales to see where things are. PIA But, better safe than sorry!!!
david


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

I for one don't believe that you could get equal sit in height. The tongue pushes down on the rear of the trailer frame and the rear axle acts as a fulcrum and pulls the front end up. The only way to get the same sit in height would be to provide a completely equal and opposite force. If you had that force the tongue weight would be zero!

Stick with your weights they are more accurate then sit in height. Add the washers and I would happen to think you are good to go. There is also the possibility that the GM factory receiver is just too loose and is not allowing the weight transfer to happen. Highlander96, Katrina and others found this out. I'm starting to think the latter and change that before you change your hitch. Equalizer is a very simple, solid hitch.

I also do not think your obsessive. Right is right and you will fell it when it is! I wouldn't bother getting just the tongue weight. Switch out that receiver.


----------



## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Agree with mike.. Sounds like you are doing all that is mechanically possible.. And yep, 1200 lb tongue sounds about right..

As far as being obesive... It your rig and knowone else's.. You can be as obsesive as you like! Dealers/Mfr's always tell you this.. If the roles are reversed, they would be right in your shoes.. You are doing the right thing.

Carey


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

I feel this thread coming to an end!!! Yeah...I say this because, after reading on the dark side about the stock receiver on GMC's, I am pretty well convinced that is now the main problem with my set up. Even Josh, the Equalizer tech mentioned that some GMC stock receivers did a poor job of transferring weight. the round tubes are not rigid enough and the two bolts right in the center pretty well anchor it to the rear bumper. Looks like that has been done to mitigate the broken weld problems these receivers have. Anyway, a good beefy class 5 hitch seems the way to go.
I have ordered a Putnam XDR Class V hitch. $165.00 (includes shipping), no drill install. Heck, we spend that much on paper plates and stuff. So this should solve the set up problem. Everything else in within specs. I bet if I weigh the trailer by itself, it will also be within specified weight. I did not know the WD system transferred weight to the trailer axles as well. Hopefully the next time this post hears from me will be when I weigh again (later in the season). But for now, I am comfortable towing with the current set up and it will be better with the new receiver. So, once again, you Outbackers have given me a bunch of good ideas and suggestions. Thanks for going through this process with me and helping me out. (If this stuff doesn't work, it's all your fault!!lol)
Time to go camping!!!!
david


----------



## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

David,
You have done a great job analizing the set up and are by no means going overboard. It was fun working on the setup with you and Chris and it really did look good when you hooked up to go. Your decision to up grade your hitch is IMHO a good move and should help to get the transfer you are looking for. pop those 2 washers in and hit the scales on your way out for your next trip and I think you'll be a " happy camper".
Bob


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

New hitch, Putnam Class V XDR, scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Can't wait!!! Have the tools all lined up, jack and stands ready so I can make the swap single hand (no help available). Electrical bracket painted and ready to install. Somebody alrady has posted a good set of pics so you all know what the stuff looks like, right? Should I go to the beach camping or to the scales this weekend?? 
david


----------



## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

beachbum said:


> New hitch, Putnam Class V XDR, scheduled for delivery tomorrow. Can't wait!!! Have the tools all lined up, jack and stands ready so I can make the swap single hand (no help available). Electrical bracket painted and ready to install. Somebody alrady has posted a good set of pics so you all know what the stuff looks like, right? Should I go to the beach camping or to the scales this weekend??
> david


Thats not much choice....The Beach!

Map Guy


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Installed the new hitch today. Some observations: this new Class V is noticeably bigger and heavier than stock hitch. The steel is thicker and the length along the frame rail is about 6 inches longer than the stock hitch. That alone should provide more leverage for weight transfer to the front axle. You do have to remove the spare tire to mount this hitch. Once the spare is out of the way, it takes about 15 minutes to bolt up the new hitch. I attached the electrical bracket to bottom of bumper. The wire bundle is routed over the hitch with plenty of room. I can't wait to try it out. Trying to talk DW in to a weekend beach trip. Short 70 mile trip should be a good trial run. Next will be a trip to the scales to see if this solves the weight transfer problem.
I now understand why the factory hitch essentially limits the tow capacity to 12000 lbs and why they recommend not going above 1200lbs of tongue weight. with a properly sized WD system and if all other weights are within specs, then the factory hitch becomes the weak point in the set up. Again, this swap should take care of that. Thanks to everyone for your input and help.
david


----------



## brenda (Jan 3, 2007)

Wow, what a read!! We too are in the same boat as you. We have a 3/4 ton chevy 6.0 gasser and the 28 krs. We are going to use the cargo for a harley and another harley in the back of the truck. geez,now you all got me freaking out.. But we too ordered that putman hitch, h ow did you get yours so soon? we ordered last week and we are still waiting,, we too got the class V for 165 delivered,,(even though its not delivered yet).. I hope that the hitch will help with all this. We went with the 28krs just for the purpose of hauling a harley.. I am def. showing this thread to my dh..I hope we will be ok..


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

brenda,
With the gasser, you will have 400 lbs weight capacity I don't have with the diesel. that is weight in the TV. In my opinion, the gross vehicle weight of the TV is one number not to be exceeded. Also, the combined weight of truck and trailer is the other number not to exceed. Those number will be hard to exceed with a 2500 truck and the 28krs. Several people have observed that, even with a diesel, those umbers are hard to exceed. You should be OK with the gasser. Also, with the kargoroos, they are designed to carry weight in the forward compartment, thus it will have a high tongue weight. Even with 50 gals of fresh water in the rear of the trailer, tongue weight will be heavy. It is important that the hitch set up be capable of 1) safely carrying the heavy tongue weight and 2) efficiently transferring some of that weight to the front axle. the factory GM hitch does not do either of those well, in my opinion. that is the main reason for me changing hitches. In the overall scheme of things, this is a relatively cheap fix to get the hitch set up properly tuned or to the point that it can be tuned. Lots of reading and information digested in that past couple of weeks on this issue. the last step (hopefully) will be to visit the scales again and make the final adjustments. I'm glad this generated some interest. I live in tourist area and see people all the time towing stuff down the road that I know is not safe and the owners have no clue about the weights they are towing. I would just rather know. We spent a lot of money on these toys, I would like to use them properly. 
david


----------



## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

well said, David. I have seen combos that scare the heck out of me. If you hit the scales, at least you know what you have to work with - good or bad


----------

