# Leveling Question



## SlowerLower (Oct 26, 2010)

As a new owner of a 301BQ, I am having trouble leveling the camper. My normal procedure is to park the camper level (using blocks as needed) and then run down the leveling jacks and then extend the slides. What is happening with this unit is that the extension of the two slides is causing the camper to tilt even with the jacks down making the once level camper unlevel. Next, we play a little game of running the slides back in, retorquing the jacks, running the slides back out, rechecking level...lather, rinse, repeat.

IMHO the solution would seem to revolve around the leveling jacks. The jacks are not sinking into the dirt, yet the camper noticably tilts towards the slides upon extension. Is this a case of inadquate or weak leveling jacks? Or, is it a case of me being too cautious about re-torquing the jacks post extension? Or, is there an issue with the jacks being too extended and not providing enough support (even though there appears to be plenty of run room left in the jack screw). Or am I just doing something wrong here? Does this unit need additional leveling jacks installed?

Clearly, physics is playing a big role with the extension of two super slides on the same side, but I just don't want to twist the camper frame to try to bring the thing back into level.

Has anyone else had this issue? Do anyone have any ideas? My cranking arm would appreciate some relief.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Yep...everyone with the 301BQ has that issue.

You will quickly learn how to get the trailer where you want it, with just enough tilt to the non-slide side, so that when you do open the slides, the trailer will then become level.	Just figure out how much it is gong to tip (same about 99% of the time based on soliding ground) and you'll have this down in a few more trips.

Hope you enjoy the 301BQ...we LOVE ours. I have a big list of mods I have done to our 301BQ....feel feel to check them out by clicking on the link below my picture.


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

SlowerLower said:


> As a new owner of a 301BQ, I am having trouble leveling the camper. My normal procedure is to park the camper level (using blocks as needed) and then run down the leveling jacks and then extend the slides. What is happening with this unit is that the extension of the two slides is causing the camper to tilt even with the jacks down making the once level camper unlevel. Next, we play a little game of running the slides back in, retorquing the jacks, running the slides back out, rechecking level...lather, rinse, repeat.
> 
> IMHO the solution would seem to revolve around the leveling jacks. The jacks are not sinking into the dirt, yet the camper noticably tilts towards the slides upon extension. Is this a case of inadquate or weak leveling jacks? Or, is it a case of me being too cautious about re-torquing the jacks post extension? Or, is there an issue with the jacks being too extended and not providing enough support (even though there appears to be plenty of run room left in the jack screw). Or am I just doing something wrong here? Does this unit need additional leveling jacks installed?
> 
> ...


I have a 312BH and it has the same slide configuration and I noticed the same thing. I thought I just screwed up the 1st time. The 2nd time I leveled it I got pretty close, but don't have it quite hit on the head yet. I will probably mess around with some lynx leveler stacks under the left jacks and see if it helps with the scissors not extended as far also.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

SlowerLower said:


> Has anyone else had this issue? Do anyone have any ideas? My cranking arm would appreciate some relief.


I'm pretty sure the first you should do is stop trying to level the unit with the stabilizing jacks. They are not like big motorhomes that have true leveling jacks. The scissor jacks on the four corners of your unit are only meant to be very snug and eliminate shaking of the camper during use. They are not meant to bear the weight of the camper, even though they seem very strong.

Every time you park and level the camper, you'll get better at it. You'll learn how much off level you have to be in order to be level when your slideout comes out. What we did was put leveling indicators on the trailer after it was completely level with the slide out. What kind of blocks are you using to level with? Lynx type leveling blocks really help by allowing you to adjust by 1" increments. I've have two sets of 10 blocks that I use for leveling and stabilizer jack pads.

Also, i think the suspension for these units is really nice. It makes towing great...but I think it does influence the ease with which the unit rocks and leans....even when leveled and stabilized.


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## SlowerLower (Oct 26, 2010)

luverofpeanuts said:


> Has anyone else had this issue? Do anyone have any ideas? My cranking arm would appreciate some relief.


I'm pretty sure the first you should do is stop trying to level the unit with the stabilizing jacks. They are not like big motorhomes that have true leveling jacks. The scissor jacks on the four corners of your unit are only meant to be very snug and eliminate shaking of the camper during use. They are not meant to bear the weight of the camper, even though they seem very strong.

Every time you park and level the camper, you'll get better at it. You'll learn how much off level you have to be in order to be level when your slideout comes out. What we did was put leveling indicators on the trailer after it was completely level with the slide out. What kind of blocks are you using to level with? Lynx type leveling blocks really help by allowing you to adjust by 1" increments. I've have two sets of 10 blocks that I use for leveling and stabilizer jack pads.

Also, i think the suspension for these units is really nice. It makes towing great...but I think it does influence the ease with which the unit rocks and leans....even when leveled and stabilized.
[/quote]

Thank you all for your advice here.

Yes, you are quite correct about trying to using the 4 corner stabilizers to level the unit. I have been using 2x8 boards under the left wheels to get the camper into the ball park, but what you have highlighted is that I need to consider getting some thinner material (something other than 1.5 inch)...like these Lynx blocks that are only an inch. This might get me closer to target and with a little more experience, better able to hit the target without so much exercise. I will also take your advice and get some higher quality (better calibrated) leveling bubbles.

So, from everyone's comments here, it appears that blocks are almost always needed for this camper. True?


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

SlowerLower said:


> So, from everyone's comments here, it appears that blocks are almost always needed for this camper. True?


Speaking for myself, but I think most have the same experience, .... yes you will always use some type of leveling blocks to level your camper (any camper really, unless it has truly built in leveling jacks, which i generally only on larger motorhomes). It is a rare campground that we visit that is level and requires no blocking. If you visit the very best RV resort campgrounds that have paved pads and full hook ups... often those are nice and level to begin with ;-)

it makes sense that if you're using 2x8's that you'd have difficulty leveling. I think what I found is that opening the slide generally will cause about 3/4" to 1" lean... trying to account for that would be awkward with 1.5" thick boards.

When we are parking we first get the camper positioned on the pad about where we want it.... then I pull straight forward a couple of feet. My wife takes out a couple of lynx leveling blocks and positions one behind each wheel on the side needing to be raised. I back up on to them. Check height. If I need more height...then she takes more leveling blocks, this time two blocks each, and adds them again right behind each wheel and I back up ("another step up" so to speak), so now each wheel is on two blocks. I repeat this until it's level. Once it's at the right height...I may add a second set of blocks at the leveling height so that I have each wheel of the camper sitting across a length of two leveling blocks. Depending on the pad.. sometimes having each wheel on only one column of lynx blocks makes me nervous. btw.. sorry if my descriptions are hard to follow. rereading this makes me think it may sound confusing... If it doesn't make sense, let me know..I can try to find a picture of our camper on the blocks so my ramblings are easier to follow.

Once it's level, I crank down the stabilizer blocks. Now, FYI... I installed my little outside stick on leveling indicators after I had stablized, put slides out, and checked the level. I put the slides back in before putting the leveling indicators on... so that I just level it to the indicator...and the "offset for slide" is built in. Once stabilizers are down, and slides are out...i do recheck level with a yardstick length level inside the camper on the kitchen floor (middle), the dining table (in the slide), and on the stove top (right next to the fridge). If I have all of these spots close to spot on level, then I'm good to go, and I can open a cold beverage. I allow myself about 1/4th of a bubble to be off...if I'm having difficulty. No use in being too anal about leveling... life is too short ;-)

Good luck!


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## bka4tcu (Aug 18, 2010)

I have found that on "level" ground, according to my level indicators, one lynx block on the slide side will make the trailer level when the slides go out. I had a lot of movement, probably due to the suspension, as well. I started using BAL "X" chocks on both sides of the trailer and added the BAL stabilizer arms which made a big difference. I hope our "stability" will improve as we use the trailer and get more practice.


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## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

bka4tcu said:


> I have found that on "level" ground, according to my level indicators, one lynx block on the slide side will make the trailer level when the slides go out. I had a lot of movement, probably due to the suspension, as well. I started using BAL "X" chocks on both sides of the trailer and added the BAL stabilizer arms which made a big difference. I hope our "stability" will improve as we use the trailer and get more practice.


X2


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

Thanks for the tips. I have been having trouble with it as well, plus the generic levelers I installed move around (not helpful at all). I wasn't sure I wanted to spend all the money on the BAL stuff, so I made home made 4x4 wheel chocks and added the $49.99 ratchet strap stabilizer to the rear bumper. Talk about huge difference!!

I still couldn't quite get level until I read this post. From now on I will throw out the lynx blocks first. I will also use the more expensive levelers and install with slides out and level as mentioned above. Thank guys!!


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## dhdb (Dec 14, 2009)

When you park your Tt on a site, make sure your curb-side is 2" lower than the drivers side. Extend stabilizers, extend slides, then retighten the curb-side stabilizers. Done! You will quickly learn how to set this up. Have fun.


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## SlowerLower (Oct 26, 2010)

I appreciate all the great replies. Here's my analysis...which seems to agree with your replies.

The trailer sags when the slides are extended because the weight transfers to the slide side axel causing the suspension to compress and the trailer to lean. If we should not be using the stabilizers to lift the trailer, then the trailer must be level with the slides out, before putting down the stabilizers. Thus, the blocks would almost always required, assuming the pad site is nearly level to start with. The stabilizers go down last.

If you drop the stabilizers before extending the slides (and have not pre-tipped the camper with blocks), the weight shift now become carried by the front and rear corner stabilizers (which now become essentially levelers) and seems to lead to stress on the frame.

Has anyone considered adding an additional stabilizer jack(s) near the slide side wheels? I see the BAL jacks are rated for 5000 lbs. With potentially four jacks on the slide side it should be well supported along the frame minimizing any potential twisting or bowing and you would not need blocks at a reasonable level site.

Naturally, Keystone will not take a stance on this...so I pose this to the group for comment.

PS...With regard to previous comments, I have always used the BAL chocks in my wheels and I love them dearly.
PPS...Indeed, blocks would be cheaper, but not as elegant.


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