# Dometic Fridge Didn't Swith Over Correctly



## Spaulding (Jul 26, 2007)

We went camping this past weekend (first time in awhile) to our permanent site. when we got there, we noticed a bad smell inside the camper. At first, we thought it was the black tank, from getting so hot, perhaps it just had a smell. We then opened the freezer and fridge and found out where the smell was coming from. Everything was spoiled. The fridge was off, the check light was on. I am assuming what happend was that power went out at some point, the fridge switched to gas, and then the gas ran out. My questions are these:
1) shouldn't the fridge have switched back to AC when the power came back on??
2) is there a way to tell if the fridge is really running on gas or AC?
3) what would you recommend to get rid of a NASTY smell from the freezer. Chicken that went bad does not smell good!!!!

Thanks!


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

If you had the fridge set to "Auto" and "ON", then it should have switched back to electric when the power came back on, unless a voltage spike fried a fuse or tripped a breaker when the power was interrupted or when it came back on.

I leave the one switch set to AUTO and then all I have to do is turn the fridge to ON (when in storage) and the pilot light ignites on its own (when the gas tank is full and the valve open). When I plug the trailer into 110V AC, it will switch over to electric automatically. And when I unplug the trailer, it switches back to gas.

If your 12V fuses and AC breakers are all OK, then it could be a small glass-type fuse on the fridge control board, or you could have a problem. But check all these things before taking it to a dealer, lest they charge you a fee to show this to you. (Your batteries must also be hooked up and charged for any 12V appliance to work, too - even if connected to shore power.)

Hope this is the problem and nothing is wrong. (Don't feel too bad if it is this simple. There are a lot of things to keep track of in an RV. You wouldn't be the first!)

Also - those refrigerator odor eaters (Arm & Hammer Baking Soda) that use a suction cup, or a box of A&H BS will get rid of your odors. We keep one in the fridge all the time, because onions and other foods can stink it up pretty good, too. And we always prop open the fridge doors while the trailer is in storage. It always smells fresh when we use it the next time.

Mike


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## Spaulding (Jul 26, 2007)

Thanks for the reply. I assume when you ask about the 12V fuses and AC breaker, are you talking about the ones that are altogether with the converter and such? On the 31rqs, it's right under the entertainment stand. And for the glass type fuse on the control board, is that the one that is accessible outside? If so, I checked the interior ones that are all together, and we had no breakers tripped. The outside breaker was fine. I have not checked the glass type fuse, because I couldn't get to it. Wasn't sure how to remove the panel on it, and it was night, so I just let it go.

I should also say, that the fridge is working, just not sure if it is gas or AC. Not sure how to tell...

Thanks!
Terry


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Spaulding said:


> Thanks for the reply. I assume when you ask about the 12V fuses and AC breaker, are you talking about the ones that are altogether with the converter and such? On the 31rqs, it's right under the entertainment stand. And for the glass type fuse on the control board, is that the one that is accessible outside? If so, I checked the interior ones that are all together, and we had no breakers tripped. The outside breaker was fine. I have not checked the glass type fuse, because I couldn't get to it. Wasn't sure how to remove the panel on it, and it was night, so I just let it go.
> 
> I should also say, that the fridge is working, just not sure if it is gas or AC. Not sure how to tell...
> 
> ...


There is a glass-type fuse on the control board. Mine is easily accessible from the outside by removing the louvered panel. Take it out and make sure that the filament is still intact. If that fuse is gone, the fridge can't ignite the flame.

As for being able to tell if it is on gas or electric - you should be able to see a slight "glow" from the small flame (pilot light size flame), especially at night, if the frifge is operating on gas. There is probably a little round door that slides over a hole, at the base of the chimney. Take note as to how much space is allowed for air to enter the flame chamber and be sure to slide it back into the same position when you are done looking. That door helps keep the draft down so the flame burns properly and helps it stay lit when traveling and/or when there is a lot of wind.

Also, when I start my fridge prior to a camping trip, the fridge operates on gas, as I do not have any shore power where my trailer is stored. When I turn the fridge ON, I stick my head out the door and I can hear the "snap, snap" sound of the ignitor and then a little "pop" sound when the flame ignites. If it doesn't ignite, I'll soon hear the snapping sound as it tries again.

If you have a gas problem, it will try to light three times before it gives up (a safety measure). If that happens, turn the fridge OFF and wait 5+ minutes before trying again. While you are waiting, light the stove, just to be sure that you have the gas lines purged of any air. (Your fridge won't run on air, so purging the gas line will help the frustration factor when trying to light the fridge flame.)

Hope these little tips help.

(PS: Be sure that your battery is hooked up and the disconnect is CONNECTED (if you have a disconnect). I assume it is, because I don't think it would work on DC even if you are plugged into shore power. Hope someone can confirm this, but to the best of my knowledge, if your battery is disconnected, none of the 12V DC stuff will work - even with shore power.)

Mike


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