# No Dc Power To Fridge



## marks (Nov 20, 2006)

Hi All.

Getting ready to leave tomorrow, help. Had the recall done and now the fridge won't turn on.

The on/off switch above the fridge does nothing. I have battery power and connected to shore power. I downloaded the manual from a previous post and performed some test using my multimeter. Here is what I've found so far:

1) Verified AC power exist at the plug on the outside panel.
2) DC voltage reads 13.65 or so at the Main Terminal Block below the lower circuit board.
3) From the main terminal block, a red wire goes to the right and terminates at the metal cylinder. From the cylinder, another red wire goes to J4 (heater) on the lower circuit board. Verified J4 has current.
5) Checked both fuses and confirmed continuity.
6) Manual stated I should have DC current at P1 (orange +, red -). No current exist.
7) I do see there exist a J1 labeled Batt. Nothing connected to it.

Should something be connected to J1?

Regards,

mark


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Here's a link to troubleshooting an rv fridge, hopefully this will help.

fridge troubleshooting

mike


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Hi Mark,

Maybe the sensor on the (fridge's) exhaust stack? My tech showed this to me. First time I've ever seen or heard about it. If you remove one of the wires from the spade connector at the sensor, you will see a small reset button on the end of the sensor. Push it. Then reconnect the wire and try again.

If the sensor reset has been tripped, the fridge will not run. It's job is to cut power to the fridge board and shut it down if the sensor detects that a fire has started. There was already one on mine, so the tech kept the one from recall kit. But he was the one who showed it to me. (Said he's made more than a buck or two just by pushing that little button!)

(Did your tech check to see if the fridge would light and run after doing the recall work? Mine did, and everything ran fine. I even started it and let it run for a day, just to make sure. If your's lit and ran, and you can verify that, then something changed since the work was done.)

If the above suggestion doesn't work, then let me ask some questions about things you may have overlooked:

> Is your trailer sitting fairly level?

> Is the "Mode" switch set to "Auto"? (If mode is set to "Gas," gas must be turned on & 12V available - and it won't run on electric, then.)

> Check the AC breakers (the main feeds everything).

> Check the Automotive-type 12V fuse inside the fuse panel.

> Check the glass fuse on the fridge board (access from outside).

If that doesn't do it, then someone else may have more insight.

Hope I've helped.

Mike


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## Calvin&Hobbes (May 24, 2006)

I may be wrong, but the RV fridge in the Outbacks (at least on our RQS) only runs on AC or LP. No DC. I've read the manual, and the RQS's fridge is a dual control, not a triple. 
On edit, disregard my post- I didn't follow your question... Now I understand what you're asking...


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## marks (Nov 20, 2006)

Scoutr2 said:


> Hi Mark,
> 
> Maybe the sensor on the (fridge's) exhaust stack? My tech showed this to me. First time I've ever seen or heard about it. If you remove one of the wires from the spade connector at the sensor, you will see a small reset button on the end of the sensor. Push it. Then reconnect the wire and try again.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the additonal areas to check, Mike.

I believe I reset the sensor - no luck.

Is your trailer sitting fairly level?
> The trailer is close to Level.

Is the "Mode" switch set to "Auto"? (If mode is set to "Gas," gas must be turned on & 12V available - and it won't run on electric, then.)
> I verified the mode switch is auto.

Check the AC breakers (the main feeds everything). 
> Breakers all reset and working fine.

Check the Automotive-type 12V fuse inside the fuse panel.
> Checked and verified 15A fuses.

Check the glass fuse on the fridge board (access from outside).
> Glass fuses look fine and tested continuity.

If anyone has their Outback at home, can you open the outside panel and look at the lower circuit board. Across the bottom the the board, there should be connections marked J1 to J10. Does anyone have a red wire going to J1 and nothing on J3?

If I take the red wire off J3 and place it on J1, the on/off switch lights up along with the auto. J3 is marked heater while I have no wire on J1.

mark


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## Lady Di (Oct 28, 2005)

Just looking at the wiring diagram, you need the thermocouple to make the thing work.

How far out of the way is the dealer? Is he close enough to have him take a quick peek, since they messed it up.


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi Mark, I just went out and looked at my refrige. You must have a different circuit board then mine because I do not have a terminal J1 or J9, where they should be there is empty space between the terminals and they were never installed. In any case looking at the old wiring diagram that was inside the compartment and comparing it with the new wiring diagram there are minor changes. It looks like all they did was to remove the 12 volt + from terminal J4 and the main 2 lug block. They start at the 2 lug main 12 volt block and use a red wire through the manual reset cutout switch then to a fuseable link and back to terminal J4. This is a new series circuit to replace the old direct wire to terminal J4. All other wires should be the same as they were before and should not have been messed with. When you jump through the circuit with your VOM make sure you have the 12 volt - on the 2 lug terminal for the - side, then check for 12 volts+ at the manual reset. Check both sides to make sure the 12 volts is getting through. then check for 12 volts+ at J4. If you have power to J4 and your VOM's 12 volt - lead is still on the 2 lug 12 volt- side then that circuit is made and should work. One last check would be to check power from J4(12+) to J10(12-), again if you have power the circuit should work. It sounds like you have already done this by your other posts but I thought I would go through it again. I am sorry to say this but if you have power to those terminals through the cutout circuit you may have a bad board. Did it work before you took it in for the recall service? Kirk


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Calvin&Hobbes said:


> I may be wrong, but the RV fridge in the Outbacks (at least on our RQS) only runs on AC or LP. No DC. I've read the manual, and the RQS's fridge is a dual control, not a triple.
> On edit, disregard my post- I didn't follow your question... Now I understand what you're asking...


12 vdc is required to operate the control board for both AC and Propane operation.


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