# Snapper Lawn Mower



## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

Way off topic but I'll try it anyway, this site never ceases to amaze me with the broad knowledge base so here it goes.

I just acquired an older (15+ years) snapper hand mower with a B&S Quiet Easy Start mower, no other info about the motor I can find yet but it's a top pull not a rear if that helps. I'm having a really hard time starting the engine, I've done all the obvious, cleaning the carb replacing the spark plug air filter and have it narrowed down to the bolt that holds the air filter down. If I remove the air filter and bolt it will start first pull every time. If I leave the filter housing and filter off the motor and just put in the bolt that holds down the filter on the carb it will not start, it's the bolt between the butterfly. Is there a blocked fuel passage I'm not seeing, what is that long bolt actually stopping, the butterfly moves normally with the bolt in place. Once it's warmed up with the filter off I can put the filter on and it will run but it takes about 5 minutes to warm up.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Bill.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Air leak.
The mower is prolly breathing through that hole when the bolt is removed.
check gaskets where carb mounts.
This is strictly a SWAG.


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

From another website



> Well your not getting enough fuel metering through the jet. When you take the air filter screw out completly fuel is being drawn directly from the tank, by passing the metering circuit. Also check the intake manifold (tube) make sure it is tight where it bolts to the cylinder head and that the gasket is in place, check and make sure you have a rubber "O-Ring" in the carburetor where it mounts onto the intake tube.


Makes since but what the heck is a metering circuit, silly questions I know but I'll keep everyone posted because I know somewhere, sometime there will be another person with a lawn mower question and veterans of the site will be able to help









Bill.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

2500Ram said:


> From another website
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I dunno, over my head there. kinda sounds like they're saying you're just bypassing the jets when the bolt is removed.
At any rate, it's a carb problem.


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## Sluggo54 (Jun 15, 2005)

Katrina said:


> From another website
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I dunno, over my head there. kinda sounds like they're saying you're just bypassing the jets when the bolt is removed.
At any rate, it's a carb problem.
[/quote]

Check the o-ring mentioned, and any gaskets. If necessary, goop'em up with Indian Head sealer. Once you have the critter sealed up, it should start ok. Make sure the main jet isn't blocked - check it VERY gently; it's super easy to unintentionally enlarge the jet. If possible, use carb cleaner and compressed air to blow it out.

Sluggo


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

Sluggo54 said:


> Check the o-ring mentioned, and any gaskets. If necessary, goop'em up with Indian Head sealer. Once you have the critter sealed up, it should start ok. Make sure the main jet isn't blocked - check it VERY gently; it's super easy to unintentionally enlarge the jet. If possible, use carb cleaner and compressed air to blow it out.
> 
> Sluggo


Ok, indian head sealer, can you please put that in english for a *******, is that like RTV gasket sealer? I'm going to pull off the carb tomorrow and blow out the jet. I've already soaked the carb with carb cleaner several times. I'm thinking the jet/s are plugged from varnished fuel. What would break up varnished fuel? Would a penetrating oil like PB blaster work or something more like a lacquer thinner? Air compressor is not a problem.

Thanks again.

Bill.


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## prevish gang (Mar 19, 2006)

2500Ram said:


> Check the o-ring mentioned, and any gaskets. If necessary, goop'em up with Indian Head sealer. Once you have the critter sealed up, it should start ok. Make sure the main jet isn't blocked - check it VERY gently; it's super easy to unintentionally enlarge the jet. If possible, use carb cleaner and compressed air to blow it out.
> 
> Sluggo


Ok, indian head sealer, can you please put that in english for a *******, is that like RTV gasket sealer? I'm going to pull off the carb tomorrow and blow out the jet. I've already soaked the carb with carb cleaner several times. I'm thinking the jet/s are plugged from varnished fuel. What would break up varnished fuel? Would a penetrating oil like PB blaster work or something more like a lacquer thinner? Air compressor is not a problem.

Thanks again.

Bill.
[/quote]Darlene's hubby here. Engines with that much age on them tend to have a weak spark and 
tend to run erratic. A hot spark will sometimes correct little problems with fuel mixture. Coils are cheap"around $30" and easy to install. remove starter recoil cover "usually 3 to 4 bolts" and the coil has 2 bolts and a wire to disconnect. The restriction of the air filter'"even with new filter"will allow more fuel to enter engine and spark is not hot enough to light it off. Not exactly knowing what youhave that is just my theory. If this turns out not to be the prob. the ccoil is good investment, it will make the mower start with just the slightest of pull. Good Luck!


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## out4fun (Aug 22, 2006)

Hi bill
this is a carb problem. if the fuel was varnished a psssage (metering circuit) might be plugged. you can remove the carb carfully take out the jet blow carb cleaner through all the passages then run a piece of tag wire (thin wire like that in a baggy tie) in the passeges and jet ,shoot more carb cleaner in blow all the passages out with a compressor. rubber o rings can be lubed with vasilene. clean all gasket surfaces good. dont use sealer sealer will brake down with the fuel and cause leaks. clean flat surfaces will seal good with the gasket and no sealer. this will help ya get started , with some carb adjustment.

Angelo


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

prevish gang said:


> Darlene's hubby here. Engines with that much age on them tend to have a weak spark and
> tend to run erratic. A hot spark will sometimes correct little problems with fuel mixture. Coils are cheap"around $30" and easy to install. remove starter recoil cover "usually 3 to 4 bolts" and the coil has 2 bolts and a wire to disconnect. The restriction of the air filter'"even with new filter"will allow more fuel to enter engine and spark is not hot enough to light it off. Not exactly knowing what youhave that is just my theory. If this turns out not to be the prob. the ccoil is good investment, it will make the mower start with just the slightest of pull. Good Luck!


The problem isn't with the air filter, it's the screw holding the air filter on the carb that threads into the gas tank. When the screw only is in, no filter, it will not start, if I remove the screw it will fire first pull every time because it's getting it's fuel from the gas tank into the carb from the threaded filter holder just below the butterfly.

Thanks everyone and I knew there was more than one shade-tree mechanic in the bunch. I'll pull the carb hopefully tomorrow and post the results after I blow the jets clean if I can find a chemical to breakdown the varnish.

Bill.


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

Seems I have seen this before. Is this the carb that sits on the top of the gas tank (actually fixed to the gas tank)? It's been so long ago that I'm not sure what I did to correct the problem.

As already mentioned, plugged/dirty carbs are the culprit most times, especially when playing with the air cleaner seems to help. But another common problem is weak spark which can result from a number of causes....coil, points, condenser, spark plug wire, spark plug, etc. But a *very * common cause of a weak spark on many B&S engines is that the flywheel has shifted due to the blade strking a rock, root, etc. Due to its weight and inertia, the flwheel distorts the soft flywheel key and the timing goes several degrees out of time. On magneto ignitions, this is enough to casue a weak spark. A little weak and the engine runs poorly, more out of time and the engine won't run at all. Part costs maybe a buck. This might be the cause, even though it does sound like a fuel problem. Good luck.

Bill


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## mswalt (Sep 14, 2004)

> I just acquired an older (15+ years) snapper hand mower


One wonders why you'd go to so much trouble with a 15-year old mower?









Well, not "one," but me.

Mark


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

cookie9933 said:


> But a *very * common cause of a weak spark on many B&S engines is that the flywheel has shifted due to the blade strking a rock, root, etc. Due to its weight and inertia, the flwheel distorts the soft flywheel key and the timing goes several degrees out of time. On magneto ignitions, this is enough to casue a weak spark.


Darn, you beat me to it! I was going to suggest a shifted flywheel also. I used to have a mower that would do that all the time (had a lot of rocks and roots in the yard to hit). Needless to say, I kept a supply of those little sheer keys handy. Got pretty good at taking that mower apart and replacing them too.

Bob


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

mswalt said:


> > I just acquired an older (15+ years) snapper hand mower
> 
> 
> One wonders why you'd go to so much trouble with a 15-year old mower?
> ...


Well it's a long story but it's been in the family for years and there's almost a legacy around this thing. Many a brew has been drank trying to get this thing started in the past and now it's mine, good or bad. All and all it's in good shape and the 6 speed trans is in great shape and once started it runs fine. I'm willing to put in my winter off season camping time into a rebuild but I'm not putting in much money. If it runs come spring I'll use it if not I'll just store it and pass it on to little man in another 15 years









Thanks everyone.

Bill.


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