# Brake Adjustment & Break Away Switch



## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

Always wanting to learn more and to make sure things are maintained correctly.

I have a 2011 25RS Outback. One of my spring time checks is the brakes of course. To test I drive slowly down the road and then activate them manually with the trailer controller from the truck, That way I see if they stop the trailer/truck by themselves.

When doing this, are they supposed to "lock" when put on full, or just brake hard to slow it down. If they are supposed to lock, are there brake adjustments on the brakes?

Also, I have never tested the break away switch. What is the best way to test this to know it will work correctly when needed in the emergency it was meant for.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Do you mean 2011 250RS? I am not sure what state you live in, but, in PA, we are required yearly to get a state inspection for our (over 3000lbs). As part of that inspection, the brakes, along with the break away switch are checked on the Outback. During the inspection this year, we had to have the break away switch replaced (we have a 2009 Outback 250RS).

As far as the brake controller, which one do you have? We have a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy Brake Controler. Per the instruction manual, here is how I adjusted the brake controller:

To adjust the power, connect trailer to the tow vehicle and with the engine running hold the manual knob full left and set power knob to 6.0. Then, drive the tow vehicle and trailer on a dry,level surface at 25 mph and fully apply the manual knob. If the trailer brakes lock up, turn the power down. If the braking was not sufficient, turn the power up. Repeat the step above until the power has been set to just below wheel lock up.


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## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

rdvholtwood said:


> Do you mean 2011 250RS? I am not sure what state you live in, but, in PA, we are required yearly to get a state inspection for our (over 3000lbs). As part of that inspection, the brakes, along with the break away switch are checked on the Outback. During the inspection this year, we had to have the break away switch replaced (we have a 2009 Outback 250RS).
> 
> As far as the brake controller, which one do you have? We have a Tekonsha P3 Prodigy Brake Controler. Per the instruction manual, here is how I adjusted the brake controller:
> 
> To adjust the power, connect trailer to the tow vehicle and with the engine running hold the manual knob full left and set power knob to 6.0. Then, drive the tow vehicle and trailer on a dry,level surface at 25 mph and fully apply the manual knob. If the trailer brakes lock up, turn the power down. If the braking was not sufficient, turn the power up. Repeat the step above until the power has been set to just below wheel lock up.


YEs that's what I meant, I always forget the 0. I live in Canada, so no inspections here that I know of. I have never gotten a trailer inspected in 15 years of camping.

My brake controller is what comes with the truck towing package, a Chevy Avalanche. It has the manual slider and the + and - buttons at the bottom. Im assuming those are the same as the power knob on yours.

Ill have to try the adjustment, I know I adjusted it when we first got the setup. Thanks for the tip, Ill try it tomorrow at hook up


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Hello Spidey...Do you still have any of your manufacturer literature that would have come with your trailer? It would help in determining what brakes you have. Some have an auto adjusting feature with them, while others you have to manually adjust at the back of the drum with a brake adjustment tool. As you indicated that you are "always wanting to learn more", be sure to check out this PDF from Dexter, all about trailer brakes. As far as "locking up on full power", I would suggest against that. Skidding tires don't help much with trying to stop in an emergency situation...think; anti-lock brakes.


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## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

H2oSprayer said:


> Hello Spidey...Do you still have any of your manufacturer literature that would have come with your trailer? It would help in determining what brakes you have. Some have an auto adjusting feature with them, while others you have to manually adjust at the back of the drum with a brake adjustment tool. As you indicated that you are "always wanting to learn more", be sure to check out this PDF from Dexter, all about trailer brakes. As far as "locking up on full power", I would suggest against that. Skidding tires don't help much with trying to stop in an emergency situation...think; anti-lock brakes.


Thanks. And yes reading more locking up would be bad at 60 mph, and something that I should of realized. I will read up on that PDF and see what I can find. As well as my manual, I have read it front to back, but that was a few years ago, a refresher is in order.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The lock up point of the brakes are used as a reference point and should not be set to lock up at any speed on clean dry pavement.

My trailer when fully loaded will not lock up on pavement but could when completely empty. If you want to test individual wheels you need two people (second person watching wheel action) and use a gravel road. When you drive at 5 to 10 miles per hours (simulating pulling to a stop sign) activate the bakes manually and they should lock or at least skid some. If not then they need adjustment or cleaning/replacement of the magnets. There are many factors that affect the brakes performance.

The break away switch is easy. When on the gravel road and stopped, pull the pin and try to pull forward and all four brakes should be locked. If you have a DC current meter you can also check the current draw to each brake. Be warned that your brakes will heat up as long as the pin is pulled and will kill the batter fast so plug it back in promptly.


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## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

CamperAndy said:


> The lock up point of the brakes are used as a reference point and should not be set to lock up at any speed on clean dry pavement.
> 
> My trailer when fully loaded will not lock up on pavement but could when completely empty. If you want to test individual wheels you need two people (second person watching wheel action) and use a gravel road. When you drive at 5 to 10 miles per hours (simulating pulling to a stop sign) activate the bakes manually and they should lock or at least skid some. If not then they need adjustment or cleaning/replacement of the magnets. There are many factors that affect the brakes performance.
> 
> The break away switch is easy. When on the gravel road and stopped, pull the pin and try to pull forward and all four brakes should be locked. If you have a DC current meter you can also check the current draw to each brake. Be warned that your brakes will heat up as long as the pin is pulled and will kill the batter fast so plug it back in promptly.


Thanks. I increased the brake gain on the truck control from 3.5 to 5 and it stops a lot better now.

I never did test the break away switch. But I like your idea about the gravel. The Current meter I would have no idea how to do that


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## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

Well did my first test of the break away switch when moving the trailer. I replaced the standard wire with this new Fastaway product and to do that had to remove the plastic plug anyway.

It seemed to work, did it on gravel and while the wheels did turn slightly, it was really hard to make them move with the truck. So Im assuming that it works, as when I put the pin back, they moved freely. I also made sure the trailer wasnt plugged into the truck as well.

Im sure sure if they are supposed to be 100% locked when the pin is pulled or not. I would think that would be worse than a solid pressure of slowing down.

Anyway, if you are looking for a small handy mod try this curly line. Cost is under $10, and love the fact it doesn't drag on the ground anymore


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