# 2017 F250 Fx4 Towing Setup



## raddad73 (May 20, 2017)

I just purchased a 2017 F250 to pull my 328RL which has a 1000# hitch weight. Im wondering if there are others with similar TV and if they can describe their towing experience. My TV is all stock but I think the rear end seems a little soft. is this normal or do I have something setup wrong? Have you changed your shocks or added AirBags or helper springs...

thank you for your advice.


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## Dave-Gray (Jul 9, 2012)

With a trailer that size, you may need a weight distribution system. Even if you added air bags, that won't solve the weight reduction on the front axle. What does your truck's and trailer's owner's manuals say? The cargo distribution in the trailer makes a difference too. You need to ensure the tongue weight is near 10% but not less.


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## raddad73 (May 20, 2017)

I have a WD hitch, my truck is level but I do think i need to drop my hitch about 1 inch... but I dont know if that will solve the feeling of softness in the rear. I should be testing the lowering of the hitch in the next two weeks. I will report my findings.


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## Todd&Regan (Jul 1, 2010)

What's the weight rating of your hitch spring bars?


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## raddad73 (May 20, 2017)

My spring bars are rated to 1200# its a husky WD


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## Parrothead (Jul 17, 2015)

Have you had a chance to measure your actual (real-world) tongue weight? That may be the issue.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Raddad73, describe "soft in the rear". Are you talking bounce, sway? I originally started with a Husky. I did not have it long. I ended up with a Blue Ox and eventually sold it to a friend.

328RL has about a 10500lb GVWR. Your F250 is barely challenged weight wise both tongue and trailer weight. With E rated tires you should have minimal movement at the rear axles, however being a bumper pull and nearly 38' long sway action is going to be greatly magnified.

The Husky WDH I had did not have sway mitigation. I do not know what model you have, or if any Husky Brands offer sway mitigation, but the model i had years ago was thier best and provided nothing to stop sway.

IF you do NOT have a sway mitigation system on that hitch, as the saying goes, the tail is going to wag the dog. Not as bad on an F250, but certainly you'd feel it and this is probably the root of your problem.

The add-on anti-sway bars are useless for a camper of that length. You should be looking a Reese Dual Cam, Blue Ox, or you could go crazy expensive but top of the line Hensley. But you definately want a hitch with integral sway mitigation / control.

We are into the camping season and there are hitches that were bought and used one time to bring a unit to a seasonal site. People not longer need them and post them up for sale. You could check Craigslist or other online "Yard-Sale" sites to find a bargain. I paid just over 400.00 at the time for mine in 2007. I sold it in 2011. It is still being used by a friend today. this weekend in fact. A quick check shows they are selling for about $615 from the manufacturer.

https://www.blueoxtowbars.com/categories/Blue_Ox_Sway_Pro_3500_lb_Hitches,1357

Hope this helps you.


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## raddad73 (May 20, 2017)

Thank you for all of the advise, it is very helpful. I do have a Husky WD system with Sway Control. The 2017 F250 also has built in sway control as it will independently break each wheel to control sway. I am not having any issues with sway. What I am felling may just be normal as I am new to this. The back end of my TV just feels very heavy (and it is). I think it should feel a little more stiff. I do believe my ball height is a bit too high so I will be lowering it about 1 1/2 inches to get a bit more tongue weight to address minor bounce. I will also try a little more tilt on the head hoping this will stiffen the ride a bit.

The helper springs seem interesting, how will they affect my day to day ride.

Thanks again... I appreciate everyone's advise and experience.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Raddad73, Have you measured front and rear bumper to ground before and after hitching up?

If not, and since it is not sway that seems to be the issue, there are only a couple of options left. Certainly, before modifying a new truck, you should check your adjustments.

1. Hitch Head Height

2. Hitch Head Angle

3. WD Bar Tension

4. WD Bar Angle

If you are familiar with this than I apologize. for the sake of helping some one else that might read this.... I will continue!

Select a level place to do this. A local parking lot is probably ideal.

Choose a point and measure the distance with a tape measure from your front bumper to the ground. Record this number.

Choose a point and measure the distance with a tape measure from your rear bumper to the ground. Record this number.

Level your trailer.

Measure the distance from your trailer hitch to the ground. Record this number.

Back your truck to the trailer and view how high the ball is in reference to the trailer hitch. The top of the ball should be 3-4" above the trailer tongue as a starting point.

If it is not. Adjust your hitch head height as best as possible.

Connect your tow vehicle to the trailer. Do Not engage your WDH.

Measure the Distance from the coupled hitch to the ground. Record this number

From the point you selected earlier, measure the distance with a tape measure from your front bumper to the ground. Record this number.

From the point you selected earlier, measure the distance with a tape measure from your rear bumper to the ground. Record this number.

Substract your connected bumper measurements from your disconnected bumper measuremeants. you'll have a number for the front and back.

What you are trying to achieve with the Weight Distibution Hitch is to create a fairly equal drop, front and back.

Engage your Weight Distribution Hitch.

From the point you selected earlier, measure the distance with a tape measure from your front bumper to the ground. Record this number.

From the point you selected earlier, measure the distance with a tape measure from your rear bumper to the ground. Record this number.

Substract your connected bumper measurements from your disconnected bumper measuremeants. you'll have a number for the front and back.

A properly adjusted WDH will create a fairly equal drop, front and back.

If the nose of the truck rises when the hitch is connected, not enough weight is being shifted forward by the hitch.

Either tighten up an additional link of chain or disconnect and adjust the hitch head angle downward. this will change the center of weight more forward.

Measure again to check how the change in force has effected your vehicle stance. Make minor adjustments to hitch head angle and or WD Bar tension to achieve a fairly level stance. You may find the trailer nose a bit higher than level. I believe it is more desireable to be a touch nose high, than nose low.

Your rear end now has additional upward force on it, the weight of the tongue has been effectively moved towoard your rear axle and also has caused the nose to be forced more downward. This ensures good contact with the road up front. The hitch is locked into your rear and tight, removing excess spring.

Below is a poorly adjusted hitch. This set up will bounce, steering will be sketchy, and pretty much your guarranteed to end up with grey hairs, white knuckles and need a change of shorts.



Check this thread out from a while ago. I still believe he needs another link to tension the WDH properly. Other than that, he is set pretty well.

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=49337


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## raddad73 (May 20, 2017)

egreg57, thank you .. I have actually gone through this but will be also be looking over everything again. the interesting thing, at least to me, is that the level of the trailer and the level of the A frame are different. When the trailer sits level the A-frame is pointed up slightly. in my opinion the A-frame should be level when hitched...

I will also post pictures of my measurements.

I really do appreciate everyone's input on this. I think I have the correct TV for the Trailer. I just have something setup incorrectly or its just normal..

thanks again.


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