# Leaking Freshwater Tank



## oshawa5 (Jan 16, 2004)

Has anyone had a problem with their freshwater tank leaking? Came home from a trip last weekend and found water dripping on the door side toward the back tire. I dropped the bottom enclosure and could not for the life of me find the leak. I filled the fresh water tank full and it leaked steady. I think it is coming from somewhere near the top of the tank but can not get to it. I was camping in April and we did get snow. I tried to keep the trailer as warm as possible to avoid any problems but this leak may be a result of that. I am taking it to the dealership to have a look but at $90.00 an hour it could be a pricey repair. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.


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## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

This is just me, but if I had the bottom cover off enough to access the fresh water tank, I think I would go ahead and drain it and try to get it out myself. That would be the major cost at the dealer. Once out, you can examine for the leak and if need be, take it to the dealer for repair or replacement. 
David


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Sounds like the vent has come loose. As beachbum said since you already have the bottom off, just drain it and drop the tank.


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

My guess would also be the vent/overfill tube has separated from the tank. UNLESS, the tank leaks when it is NOT completely full, then you'll need to look elsewhere. Check the drain valve; my belly pan only had a small hole cut for the drain valve, so it is possible that the threads are leaking and it's not dripping out the hole cut for some reason.


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## outbackgeorgia (Jan 28, 2004)

Not that simple on a 21RS.
Mine had to be replaced under warranty (screws too long) and the crossmember had to be cut to drop the tank.
Maybe the newer ones are different.

Dave


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## Lady Di (Oct 28, 2005)

Dave,

That sounds like an ugly and costly fix.


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## outbackgeorgia (Jan 28, 2004)

Lady Di,
It was under warranty, but took two weeks at the dealer.
I believe they install the tanks from the top before the floor is installed.
I did look at the re-installed crossmember and it IS ugly, but secure.
No problems since then (2 years ago)

Dave


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## 1stTimeAround (Sep 22, 2004)

My fresh tank was leaking due to a screws being installed to hold the underbelly in place being drilled INTO the tank. My leak was in the exact same place as you indicate yours, by the rear door just inside the stairs.

I was out of warranty, had an authorized repair facility break it down, send pics to Keystone and they covered it on their dime.

Very pleased!!

Jason


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

Last weekend I discovered by tank is CRACKED near the drain on the bottom!
















I noticed some water dripping from the underbelly last year but couldn't find the source. This year I looked from the fill side by dropping about 5 underbelly screws and looking up in there. There was a very obvious trickle of water coming from the general area of the drain. Dug away that foam hole sealer stuff and water was spurting out (at full tank) through the crack.

I always drain my freshwater tank, so there's zero chance this was a freezing problem. The tank was defective IMO. But I'm way out of warranty. I have to check my extended warranty (yeah I was sucked in).

Two things right now I'm thinking about. I'm expecting there is no way to patch this, especially given its location. I just can't imagine getting good enough hold even using some kind of epoxy by just applying to the outside. Everyone agree with that?

The other thing is I can't find a replacement for this thing anywhere online. It looks like I'd have to go to the dealer to get an OEM tank, which is no doubt going to be very costly, even assuming it's possible for me to do the labor myself.

So, for now it's camping with water hookups only until I figure this out.

Any thoughts or condolences would be greatly appreciated.









Oh, one more thing... last year I noticed that there's a lot of underbelly space available. If I end up having to replace that thing on my own, I'm thinking of maybe putting in something two 40 or 50 gallon tanks linked together, if I can figure out how to mount them.

How would that be for a mod?


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

Hello, is there anybody out there...

Anyone have experience with this product?
http://www.eternabond.com/install/tank.htm

Found a site that said epoxy won't adhere well to the polyethylene tank, but this stuff does the trick.

I just don't know if it will work given the location of my crack.

My other thought is if the crack is around the connection for the drain, which is on the bottom of a lowered "dip" in the tank... I might be able to cut that whole thing out and then screw a new bottom on that section with lots of screws and lots of silicon (or this tape). I would mount the new drain connection to this new "plate".

Thoughts?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

To repair a crack in these tanks you use heat. Drill a small hole at the ends of the crack to stop the stress rise then use a soldering iron to melt the crack/joint back together.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Like Andy said.

There are places who do plastic welding.. Body shops, and prolly rv dealers. Its not an uncommon thing these days.. Most quality body men have a plastic welder in there toolbox.

Carey


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

Uh... I would think there is a world of difference between "welding" a plastic body panel as a first step of an auto body repair and fixing a stress crack where there will still be stress and the pressure from 2 feet of water.

A soldering iron!? You really think that would hold?

I don't mean to be a smarty pants, it just doesn't seem right to me that you'd be able to repair this kind of crack that way.

Do you have specific experience with this kind of thing? I'd be happy to be wrong considering the cost and labor of replacing the tank if it came to that.

But, there would still be the problem of the underbelly cover. I would have to completely remove the thing in order to drive it to the repair shop. That would be a lot of work, if even possible (probably have to remove the gas lines, for example).

Has anyone just cut out a section of the underbelly and put it back up with duct tape or something?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Yes I have repaired this type of plastic, yes it will be a major PITA but the cost of repairing yourself verse getting a new tank is huge. The tank should be removed but could be repaired in place.

The stress crack must be stopped that is why you drill the relief hole at the ends. You can do the repair with a glass sculpting torch or even a propane torch but a soldering iron gives you much more control. You should also identify why it cracked. My tank when full really hung low so I added a brace to take some of the load off of the straps holding the tank up.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

BoaterDan said:


> Yes I have repaired this type of plastic, yes it will be a major PITA but the cost of repairing yourself verse getting a new tank is huge. The tank should be removed but could be repaired in place.
> 
> The stress crack must be stopped that is why you drill the relief hole at the ends. You can do the repair with a glass sculpting torch or even a propane torch but a soldering iron gives you much more control. You should also identify why it cracked. My tank when full really hung low so I added a brace to take some of the load off of the straps holding the tank up.


Andy a brace sounds like a new mod my roo needs.. Thanks.. Good idea! Mine hangs low also.

Carey

If the link works, here is my buddies kit..

click for plastic welder

Carey


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## outdrs1 (Apr 22, 2005)

There is a kit to fix this. Link----->http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/21326.htm

Made the link active.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

outdrs1 said:


> There is a kit to fix this. Link----->http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/21326.htm
> 
> Made the link active.


Yes, I found that as well. However, another source said epoxy doesn't hold very well on polyethylene. The link posted above was described as the preferred do-it-yourself approach for poly tanks.

About the welding - learn something new every day.









I see I can just buy the welder for $160. That may be the cheapest and easiest way to get-r-done. Plus, according to the manufacturer, "you will have learned the skills necessary to do highly-profitable plastic repairs."









I wonder if there are places I could rent the welder and just buy the rods.


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## outdrs1 (Apr 22, 2005)

I do plastic repair for a living on automotive bumpers and interior parts. Have also repaired Coleman boats, plus kayaks and canoes. The welding method works well, but some of the epoxy repair products are a little stronger from what I have seen on automotive parts. I have a welder with all of the different rods, and use it on the boats and on long and large cracks, splits. You can buy a welder from Urethane Supply.Urethane Supply 
Also you can get some real strong epoxy repair products from a bodyshop supply house. The best ones are from Sem, 3M, Lord Fusor, Norton. Most are for use on any type of plastic.
I have used the repair kit that I mentioned in a previous post above, and it works well on plastic holding tanks. I hope this helps a little more.


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

When I had the bottom cover off to install the quickie flush I noted how the tanks were installed on my 26RS. The fresh tank looked like it was dropped in from the top and fit tightly between two of the cross members. A flange on the top of the tank rests on the cross members and it looked like the only way to remove the tank was to cut out a cross member and drop the tank. To reinstall it would require welding/bolting the crossmember back in place. It looks like an extremely difficult job and not one I would ever want to undertake or worse yet pay for.

Good Luck,


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## Karen & Jim (Jun 19, 2007)

We have only had our 2004 21ft Outback for a few months and have used it 3 times - the first time after we filled the fresh water everything was fine. But the 2nd & 3rd time we lost about 1/3 of our water. Could there be a leak between the filler hose and the top of the tank - or does it sound like a crack in the top of the tank. If so - anyone have any idea how to fix this.

Thanks!


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## Karen & Jim (Jun 19, 2007)

1stTimeAround said:


> My fresh tank was leaking due to a screws being installed to hold the underbelly in place being drilled INTO the tank. My leak was in the exact same place as you indicate yours, by the rear door just inside the stairs.
> 
> I was out of warranty, had an authorized repair facility break it down, send pics to Keystone and they covered it on their dime.
> 
> ...


How did you get Keystone to cover it - just with pictures? We seem to have the same thing - but we purchased ours used and it is not warranteed - but when Jim dropped the bottom - the screws were rusted - it has been leaking a very long time. I called the dealer asking if they were sure they tested the tank - they apparently pressurized it - but I doubt it - that leak would have showed up. So - our plan is for Jim to repair it - thanks to everyones ideas - but I would love to have Keystone cover to cost! Please advise your technique!
Thanks!
Karen


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