# 250Rs Ceiling Seam & Bed Support



## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

We noticed that the ceiling seam near out bathroom has separated from the ceiling. It appears there are small tacks that hold it up and was wondering if maybe a brad nail would work?

Also, last pic shows our rear pull out bed support rail separating. I know some of put supports under the rear slide while pulled in - or have added extra support screws to the ceiling.

Looking for some suggestions.

Rick


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Rick, I've been there on the ceiling letting loose. There are three ceiling seams and couple wall seams that have the same problem in my 21RS as you show in your pictures. Ours appear to be from the countersink on the nail gun used being set too deep. The first time we had a prolonged stretch of subfreezing weather, the metal framing shrunk more than the paneling. The paneling bowed and the nails pulled through.

My fix was to shoot some liquid nails into the gaps between the paneling and frame then track in place with serated paneling nails. Its difficult to get them started without bending them. I hold them with a pair of needle nose pliers to save my fingers. I tried drilling a 1/16" pilot hole but the nails wouldn't hold anymore.

There is another thread or two that talk about this. If I remember correctly, Andy does something similar but uses a nail gun. Someone else used countersunk cabinet screws. The liquid nails is what does the trick.

As for you track, I think you are looking at replacing it. Once a crack starts in the corners like yours there isn't much chance of stopping it from continuing. I read another post where someone else had the same problem. Their replacement tracks were about a foot longer and they left the extra on.


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## bbwb (Apr 4, 2008)

Hi Rick:
I agree on the liquid nails and more nails to hold the ceiling up.
For the track, before changing the track, fabricate a "U" shaped piece of metal and install it from the top with the legs down. You can bend the sides up on the existing channel and then screw the new piece to the existing legs. This new piece will reinforce and prevent the tear from continuing. I am contemplating doing this repair as well as I have the tear started as well...been keeping an eye on my tear to see if it gets worse. I also now put a support under the bunk when the slide is in.
bbwb


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

After fixing the track using one of the suggestions already made, I would definitely start using some type of bunk support. I think the flex forces when going over bumps have to be pretty scary at times. I made a simple bunk support by carpeting a foot pad to protect the floor, then cutting a length of 2 x 2 with carpet wrapped around the top end, to snugly slip into place. I have to improve it, because sometimes after a trip, it will have fallen over. Other times it's still in place. Even though it's a tight fit, obviously the bunk bounces up enough to let it fall over. It helps me understand why the track can get damaged.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Before I attempt to repair this and/or replace these supports myself, I contacted Keystone and they had instructed me to send them pics along with my VIN#. I explained to them that my 250RS was only 2 years old and believed this shouldn't be happening. I'd be curious to see if they offer to fix it.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Rick,

Please let me know what Keystone says. I had pictures taken of mine by the dealer to send to Keystone just after my warranty was over. I haven't had any more problems since my last repair which was over a year ago. I believe that my problem originated from a cold stretch in are area were we never got above 25 degrees for about ten days. The aluminum frame contracted more than the paneling which caused the paneling to bulge and pull the nail heads through. We haven't had weather like that since.


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## Sweathog62 (Jul 28, 2005)

Hello, as for the trac issue may I suggest a metal cargo rod with ratchet found at I think lowes( or home depot) in the trailer parts section. It fits mine perfectly, close the slide put it in the horizontal position and ratchet the device up snug giving great support to the slide. As for the crack, I added a large washer and have had no additional problems. One side does not even hit a stud so I stopped wasting my time and quit worrying about it. Its been to Colorado and yellostone w no problems.

Ok, I did find it hard to remember to remove the horizontal rod and the kids did make fun of me just a bit!!! That move hurt nothing in the process except my pride......

Good luck.


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## Chris210RS (Jul 24, 2011)

rdvholtwood said:


> We noticed that the ceiling seam near out bathroom has separated from the ceiling. It appears there are small tacks that hold it up and was wondering if maybe a brad nail would work?
> 
> Also, last pic shows our rear pull out bed support rail separating. I know some of put supports under the rear slide while pulled in - or have added extra support screws to the ceiling.
> 
> ...


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## Chris210RS (Jul 24, 2011)

Same problem in my 09 210Rs. The rail split down the middle. The screws are ok and holding but the thin metal split.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Sweathog62 said:


> Hello, as for the trac issue may I suggest a metal cargo rod with ratchet found at I think lowes( or home depot) in the trailer parts section. It fits mine perfectly, close the slide put it in the horizontal position and ratchet the device up snug giving great support to the slide. As for the crack, I added a large washer and have had no additional problems. One side does not even hit a stud so I stopped wasting my time and quit worrying about it. Its been to Colorado and yellostone w no problems.
> 
> Ok, I did find it hard to remember to remove the horizontal rod and the kids did make fun of me just a bit!!! That move hurt nothing in the process except my pride......
> 
> Good luck.


Can you post a picture? Would like to see how you have this?


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

thefulminator said:


> Rick,
> 
> Please let me know what Keystone says. I had pictures taken of mine by the dealer to send to Keystone just after my warranty was over. I haven't had any more problems since my last repair which was over a year ago. I believe that my problem originated from a cold stretch in are area were we never got above 25 degrees for about ten days. The aluminum frame contracted more than the paneling which caused the paneling to bulge and pull the nail heads through. We haven't had weather like that since.


I just received an email from Keystone Customer Relations indicating that they would pay for repairs - by replacing both rails. I'm happy with that!


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Good deal. Nothing about the sagging ceiling?


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

thefulminator said:


> Good deal. Nothing about the sagging ceiling?


I took care of that per your suggestions.....


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

*Update*: Keystone provided two dealerships that I could take the 250RS to get the rails fixed. One - Gayle Kline in Mountville, PA and the other was Ben's RV in York, PA. I thought it would be better to take the OB to a dealer that sold and service OB's - that would have been Ben's RV. When I called Ben's - the first question they asked was - "Where did you buy your Outback" and I asked them if that made a differance - and they said "Yes" I told them that I bought it at the Hershey show and they told me to take it to Grumbines. They explained that all the RV's (Outbacks) at the show were sold out of Grumbines.......Not True.

We bought our 250RS from a dealer in Church, NY (Camping World) and when I tried to tell them that - they told me that I was wrong and to take it to Grumbines (Harrisburg, PA). Instead of pushing the issue, I ended the call and called Gayle Kline's Rv in Mountville. What a difference.

This dealership doesn't even carry the OB brand, but, was very professional and more than willing to help with the repair.

Sorry, but, Ben's RV in York, PA does not get my vote....


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

rdvholtwood - any idea if they will reinforce better, or just replace with like equipment? And, if so, ultimately we're all looking for something to support the bunk?

Seems this model has been around for 10 years, and it's only lately that I see the issues with the rails. Have they changed, or have I just missed it? I had watched this model for issues for the last five years while trying to get DH on board.

Also, Sweathog62, can you post a pic as to what you bought? I'm not great at building stuff, and I'd liek to see this so I know what to look for at Lowes. Right now I'm using a bunch of pillows stuffed in under the bunk on the counter and couch corners.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

sptddog - I am in the process of discussing both with Keystone and Gayle Kline RV what we can do to strengthen this up. Personally, I think the problem stems from the rough roads that I travel on. PA has some really rough roads. I think the back bunk supports would be ok - if they had something underneath to take some of the load of the ceiling. The other option would to have a stronger material used for the support brackets. If and when I meet with the dealership, I will post the outcome of what we decide to do to fix this issue.

Just recently, I have been using a 3-step aluminum step ladder underneath the bed - I have to add a 2x6 with some shims to snug it in - its crude, but, its working for me.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Rick,

You might want to show them Jasonrebeccas pic of theirs pulling away from the ceiling as well.

My link


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

thefulminator said:


> Rick,
> 
> You might want to show them Jasonrebeccas pic of theirs pulling away from the ceiling as well.
> 
> My link


Mine is not pulling away from the ceiling - the rails are splitting at the seams. I've told Keystone about our site and the problems some of us have been having - they really didn't comment. In conversations with the dealer (hopefully) I will be talking to, I will mention it.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

sptddog said:


> rdvholtwood - any idea if they will reinforce better, or just replace with like equipment? And, if so, ultimately we're all looking for something to support the bunk?
> 
> Seems this model has been around for 10 years, and it's only lately that I see the issues with the rails. Have they changed, or have I just missed it? I had watched this model for issues for the last five years while trying to get DH on board.
> 
> Also, Sweathog62, can you post a pic as to what you bought? I'm not great at building stuff, and I'd liek to see this so I know what to look for at Lowes. Right now I'm using a bunch of pillows stuffed in under the bunk on the counter and couch corners.


I see yours is a 2010 model. Is it the power slide, or the manual slide. It may just be a matter of time, but so far I haven't noticed any power slides with this problem. That said, I made a slide support for ours, just to be safe.


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

rdvholtwood said:


> rdvholtwood - any idea if they will reinforce better, or just replace with like equipment? And, if so, ultimately we're all looking for something to support the bunk?
> 
> Seems this model has been around for 10 years, and it's only lately that I see the issues with the rails. Have they changed, or have I just missed it? I had watched this model for issues for the last five years while trying to get DH on board.
> 
> Also, Sweathog62, can you post a pic as to what you bought? I'm not great at building stuff, and I'd liek to see this so I know what to look for at Lowes. Right now I'm using a bunch of pillows stuffed in under the bunk on the counter and couch corners.


I see yours is a 2010 model. Is it the power slide, or the manual slide. It may just be a matter of time, but so far I haven't noticed any power slides with this problem. That said, I made a slide support for ours, just to be safe.
[/quote]

Mine is a manual slide. Not sure if the previous owner opted for that or if it was an early 2010 and the dealer didn't give them that option. I'm not terribly handy, so I was hoping to find something I could by like the ratchet optoin above.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Had the same problem with our 2003 21RS, the rails split at the ceiling. The rails and trolleys on the slide are very light weight and aren't designed to carry much weight. I think they are there only to guide the slide in and not carry any of the weight.

I flipped my rails end for end so the split end was at the back of the trailer. I then adjusted the rollers down so they were just resting on the track when it was in so they weren't putting any pressure on the track at all. It's been like that for 3 or 4 years now without any problems. Can't speak for the newer design but that's how ours works.

Mike


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## Chris210RS (Jul 24, 2011)

I was able to order the ceiling rail for 12.00 + 15.00 shipping. Should be here next week. Anyone have any idea how to remove the split one to replace it? My screws are all still good just the split rail. I didnt pull it out yet to study it but I would imagine you would have to support the bed in some way or remove it completly. Probably in over my head. I didnt talk to Keystone customer service yet.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

If you extend the slide you should be able to remove the old track and put the new one up. When the slide's out the track isn't carrying any weight.

Mike


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