# Dead Microwave



## jtarby

We had our first full week of camping this past week and have a couple todo's following a week in the trailer. Most significant is that the microwave died on us on Tuesday. I went to defrost some chicken and after pressing defrost and trying to start it the keypad just went dead. No lights on the display and no beeps when buttons were pressed.

I turned the breaker off and on and it seemed to come back to life so I thought I just tripped the breaker. I made sure that the water heater was off and tried it again. This time it started to come to defrost for a fraction of a second and then went dead again. I flipped the breaker back and forth but no luck this time. I pulled the microwave out and checked the outlet for power and the outlet seems to be ok. I also took it into the house when we got back and tried it in a wall outlet, still no luck.

The microwave itself is sealed up pretty tight, clearly they don't intend you to go poking around inside. The model is CDMW12B and according to the owners manual it only has a one year warranty which also only applies to the original owner. Seeing that I bought the Outback used last fall from someone who had owned it a year I think I'm out of luck from the warranty perspective. The microwave has probably only been used a dozen times so it's possible this one was bad all along and it just took a while to die because it wasn't used too often.

Anything else to try before I go shopping? I see that CW has that model for $145. Has everyone else had good luck with theirs or should I be wary of replacing it with the same model? If other have opted for something different are there any suggestions?

Thanks


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## luckylynn

Why not just buy a cheaper one from one of the wally world or someplace like that? Would sure be cheaper and should work just as well.....at least I think it would. Some of you smart trailer wirring people might know some reason that it would not work.

Just my thoughts......luckylynn


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## Oregon_Camper

Did you try plugging it into power back at home? Just trying to make sure it is a microwave problem and not a wiring problem to the microwave.


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## jtarby

Yes, I did try it at home, still not working. Actually did that in the middle of my post the first time just so I could make sure that base was covered.

I thought about replacing it with one that was the same size that wasn't specifically designed for an RV. CW has this comment in the description "Dometic's Microwaves are specifically designed for the RV, with rugged electronics to withstand travel vibrations." I'm not sure if that's really any different than any other microwave. The microwave itself appears to be built by LG with a Dometic sticker on it.


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## NHRA Larry

Your issue sounds exactly like the issue I had with my microwave except when I removed mine and tried it in the house, it worked fine. That was also after my dealership replaced the microwave THREE times, and it still didn't work. I found the problem in the power panel where the factory never stripped the wires, but relied on the screw to break the insulation on the wire. Once I stripped (all) the wires the microwave never failed to this day.

What was really amazing is that all the wires in the panel were never stripped, but the problem only showed up in the microwave and not in any other circuit.


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## Scoutr2

There is an internal fuse at the back of the unit, but you must remove the oven's outer metal housing to access it. I believe the outer metal shell (housing) is held in place by only 4-6 screws and then the housing just slides off. You are looking for a glass fuse. You can see the filament inside. If the glass is blackened, or if the filament is separated, the fuse is blown and needs to be replaced. But then the question becomes, "What caused it to blow?"

Because your oven worked, then didn't, then did briefly, now doesn't again, it sounds like a loose connection somewhere inside (creating an "open" or a "short" circuit). Perhaps you can find it while you have the cover off (with the power unplugged, that is). But if the intermittent short or open is inside the touch-pad or other sealed components, it is not repairable by you. And they seem to have things priced just right so that buying a new oven is just a bit cheaper than the cost to repair an existing oven.

Mine died a couple times, but it worked when plugged in at home, in the kitchen. I traced mine down to loose connections in the breaker panel, at the converter.

Hope this helps. (But I'm grabbing at straws, here.)

Mike


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## jtarby

I pulled the cover and could only find one fuse, 250V 20A, it was ceramic and not clear glass so I couldn't tell from a visual inspection if it was blown or not. I checked it with an ohmeter and it appears to be good. If anyone knows of another that's hidden from view I still have the cover off.

Just a note of caution if anyone else pulls the cover off. There is a good sized capacitor in there that could ruin your afternoon.


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## Oregon_Camper

jtarby said:


> I pulled the cover and could only find one fuse, 250V 20A, it was ceramic and not clear glass so I couldn't tell from a visual inspection if it was blown or not. I checked it with an ohmeter and it appears to be good. If anyone knows of another that's hidden from view I still have the cover off.
> 
> Just a note of caution if anyone else pulls the cover off. *There is a good sized capacitor in there that could ruin your afternoon.*


LOL...thanks for the warning.


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## N7OQ

I would not recommend someone opening their Microwave and trying to fix it unless you know what you are doing. That cap could really light your life anyway like a TV it is best to replace it with a new one when it goes bad even if it is just a fuse, I have never seen where changing a microwave fuse was a permanent fix usually something else is happening and putting to much of a load on the circuit.


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## jtarby

After a week of poking around inside and plugging it in and then unplugging it again I was just about ready to order the replacement when I decided to give it one last shot... the age-old repair technique of a slap on the side of the cabinet.

Yup, you guessed it, when I plugged it in the LED came to life and the keypad was working again. I was just heading out the door to work so I didn't have a chance to actually try to heat anything up in it, but there's a hope it's still alive.

I have no idea how long it will work for, or if it will work at all and I definitely think something is loose in there, but if it works for now then I'm happy not ordering a new one yet.


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## Scoutr2

Like I said - sounds like an intermittent short or open. Consider that when you tow your Outback down the road, it endures the equivalent of a 3.5 magnitude earthquake. It's a wonder more stuff doesn't develop problems.

But DO be careful when poking around in there. As was pointed out, capacitors can store a lot of energy for longer than one would think.

I just wonder what loose connection that "slap" on the side fixed. It will probably rear its ugly head again some day.

Mike


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## Oregon_Camper

Scoutr2 said:


> Like I said - sounds like an intermittent short or open. Consider that when you tow your Outback down the road, it endures the equivalent of a 3.5 magnitude earthquake. It's a wonder more stuff doesn't develop problems.


Never thought of if that way...but I know for sure my flip out drawer (now a drawer...no longer a worthless what ever they called it) always seems to find it's way to the floor during travel. That is high on my list of things to mod.

Anyone have ideas on how to keep that drawer closed? The latch for the pantry drawers won't work, as this one would be out in the open.


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## Lmbevard

If I was to replace my Microwave in the RV I would use something like this; http://www.microwavecooking.com/RV_Microwave.htm. If you like fast food prep, a microwave/convection oven does a great job. One thing you don't really have to worry about is the exhaust fan part of the unit that's in the Outback since it doesn't connect to the outside, only recirculates the air. Good luck.


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