# Setting Up Reese Dual Cam On '05 25Rs



## Moose (May 1, 2013)

I purchased a Reese Dual Cam WD/Anti-Sway hitch for my 2005 25RS and I'm in the process of installing it.

There is a piece of angle iron welded crossways on the trailer frame that is a support for the propane bottles. It is in the exact area where the frame plate on the Reese setup
needs to be installed (this is the piece that holds the cam arm). The instructions call for a 19 3/8" distance between the center of the coupler and the cam pivot. Because of this
piece of angle iron, I can get distances of 18 1/4" (standard setup) or 20 1/2" (alternate setup).
The rep from etrailer.com instructed me to go with the 18 1/4" distance, but I thought I'd post on here to get other opinions.

Also, the VIN plate of the trailer is right where I need to install the Reese frame plate on the left hand side. Any suggestions on what to do there?
Can it be pried off and re-attached somewhere else?

Many thanks!

SF


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

Moose said:


> I purchased a Reese Dual Cam WD/Anti-Sway hitch for my 2005 25RS and I'm in the process of installing it.
> 
> There is a piece of angle iron welded crossways on the trailer frame that is a support for the propane bottles. It is in the exact area where the frame plate on the Reese setup
> needs to be installed (this is the piece that holds the cam arm). The instructions call for a 19 3/8" distance between the center of the coupler and the cam pivot. Because of this
> ...


Having done dual cam setups, BEFORE you drill any holes, mount the brackets to frame with C clamps in the approximate location called for. then with the trailer on the ball and the bars w/o tension, put the snap up brackets on the frame. then put the bars on the cam, and on the snap up bracket w/o tension and then adjust the bracket so that the arm is midway on the threads. Now check to see if it is in the way of the angle iron. If so, see if adjusting the threads on the cam arm will get you out of trouble. If not, try the alternate setup. You may very likely find that the mounting location is different than the numbers Reese gives. It can vary a fair amount depending on coupler location (top or bottom of a frame), Ball height, etc. Once you've done this to find a good starting point, then follow the rest of the directions to complete the setup. Don't drill holes till your satisfied with the trial setup.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

On the VIN plate, grind off one rivet then rotate the plate so it does not interfere with the dual cam mounting. Then when you are all done get a hammer set rivet of the correct size and drill a hole to resecure. Then install the rivet and hammer the center pin in to set it. I would not move it too far from the factory installed location.


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## Moose (May 1, 2013)

Thanks for the ideas you guys. I'm currently held up by locating the right tools (need a huge end wrench!), but I'll definitely follow these suggestions.

SF


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## Red Beard (Feb 13, 2010)

Go to your local Lowes and pick up a large adjustable wrench and combination wrench. 
With those wrenches and tape measure along with the instructions (go to the Reese web site and print them) you can adjust the hitch. 
The vin plate is simple fix - drill out the rivets, apply some paint over the holes, relocate to a suitable location, drill holes and pop-rivet to secure. 
After you get the hitch adjusted - I always encourage people loosen everything up then spray all the bolt threads with brake cleaner, apply a few drops of blue Loc-tite re-assemble and tighten everything down. 
The hitch ball always gets a copious amount of blue or red Loc-tite. 
The Loc-tite is assurance that things stay where they should&#8230;one less thing to stress about. 
BTW- if you need some extra muscle to tighten everything up use a cheater bar. This is simply a length of pipe that will fit over your wrench and allow you to use leverage over pure strength. (Lowes - black pipe section 3-4 foot long piece&#8230;if space is available longer is always better). I have yet to find a bolt that I can't loosen/tighten with a cheater bar of appropriate length. 
If memory serves Reese calls for something like 350ftlbs to tighten the hitch head&#8230;if you don't have a torque wrench, apply the cheater bar, use the turn of the nut method- tighten the nut tight and then turn ¼ turn more. Before everyone jumps me&#8230;this WILL tighten the bolts to more than the require torque (unless you are some 65 lb pansy, in that case you're going to need a really long piece or pipe and you likely won't be able to lift it). 
The Reese is great hitch&#8230;just needs to be set up properly, it will take a few test tows and some tweaking&#8230;take your wrenches and pipe log a few miles and pull over at rest area etc. to make adjustments. It will be well worth it! 
Keep in mind your 250 has the fresh water tank behind the axle, when full it really take a bunch of weight off the tongue and can get things squirrely. 
I also recommend the Prodigy P3, I have used the analog (timed braking controller) the cheap ones like $35.00. The Prodigy (digital) is worth every penny and even more!! After installing I can't be more impressed. The way it applies the brakes in all conditions is great, no jerking in the city or slow speeds, applies proportional to your speed, brake pressure, and adjusts for your going uphill or downhill.

Good luck and safe towing.


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## Moose (May 1, 2013)

Thanks for all of the tips Red Beard.

I am finding that the only wrench that will work to get that nut on is an end wrench...and it's a bit of an odd size (1 13/16).
Due to the design of the Reese hitch, there is a "collar" around the ball shank that the nut screws onto, so there isn't enough room to get a crescent or pipe wrench on.
Also, there is a protrusion about 2 1/2 inches below the ball shank, so I also cannot use a typical socket.
From what I can see, an end wrench (either box or open) is the only thing that will work.
I've tried Lowe's, Home Depot, Tractor Supply and Harbor Freight with no luck.
I'm also loathe to spend $100+ on a nice version of the wrench since I think I'll only use it once.

I'll figure it out, but it has put a hurdle in my plans to get this hitch installed for the time being.

BTW, I use a Prodigy P3...I don't really have experience with another model as this is my first, but I agree that it is really nice and easy to use.

SF


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Moose said:


> Thanks for all of the tips Red Beard.
> 
> I am finding that the only wrench that will work to get that nut on is an end wrench...and it's a bit of an odd size (1 13/16).
> Due to the design of the Reese hitch, there is a "collar" around the ball shank that the nut screws onto, so there isn't enough room to get a crescent or pipe wrench on.
> ...


Most places that sell Reese hitches and balls also sell the wrench for putting the nut on the bottom of the ball and most sell for less than $20.

E-trailer has them for less than $15 Ball wrench


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## Moose (May 1, 2013)

CamperAndy said:


> Thanks for all of the tips Red Beard.
> 
> I am finding that the only wrench that will work to get that nut on is an end wrench...and it's a bit of an odd size (1 13/16).
> Due to the design of the Reese hitch, there is a "collar" around the ball shank that the nut screws onto, so there isn't enough room to get a crescent or pipe wrench on.
> ...


Most places that sell Reese hitches and balls also sell the wrench for putting the nut on the bottom of the ball and most sell for less than $20.

E-trailer has them for less than $15 Ball wrench
[/quote]

Hey Andy - I just got off the phone with etrailer. They do not carry an end wrench that fits that nut!

SF


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## Red Beard (Feb 13, 2010)

I know our Lowes carries the ball wrench. It isn't with all the other tools it is in the isle with the hitches/trailer stuff.(remember the employee's generally don't know jack) 
I have one of those wrenches and LARGE adjustable&#8230;between the 2 and a cheater bar I was able to adjust everything on the hitch. 
I keep those wrenches in the camper, I have loaned them out a CG to those needing to adjust hitches. 
Good luck!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Sounds like you have the 1 1/4" shank on the ball and this should take a 1 7/8" wrench. I am surprised etrailer does not carry this.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

I went to my local trailer supply store and said "can you tighten this for me" and they said "sure". Done.


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## Moose (May 1, 2013)

I was just about to head down that route Insomniak.

I have a friend who owns a bridge repair business and as Spicoli from Fast Times at Ridgemont High would say, he has an ultimate set of tools.
The Curt ball I ordered has a couple of shoulders on it. We were able to tighten both the nut and turn the ball itself with some large wrenches today.

Problem solved! I am going to include this info in my review of the Strait Line hitch on etrailer when I get around to writing it.

SF


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