# Modification To-Do Lost - Thoughts Welcome



## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Pick up the 240urs on Thursday. Won't start mods for a month or two, as I'm finishing up a VW off frame restoration, and I've only got access to a shop for another month or two - my friend's moving to Florida *sigh*. Working full time to get that done.

But once the camper's in and my time's my own, ere's the mod list:

First, install the Trimetric battery monitor to start getting a history of amperage usage, so I can plan the solar panel system. Once we've been out for a month so so, I'll have a good idea of my storage and panel requirements. Then I can do the install.

Design and construct a brace for the slide out bed, as well as extend the mattress about 8" so we can sleep N/S in the unit. Construct covers for the windows on either side of the bed which will permit the windows to be open but vision blocked so the fantastic fan can pull air through while we're sleeping. Perhaps a heavier curtain separating the sleeping area, for when ones awake and one's asleep; and we don't need the airflow.

Remove dinette or partial removal. Add table and chairs which permit viewing through the window while eating.

Replace couch with one better for my back - not so soft.

Storm door between living area and garage. Due to allergies, we like keeping the living area as clean of irritants as possible. Occasionally one needs to take sanctuary inside, with the AC running for a day or two.

Install racks for recumbent bikes in garage, after removing lower bunk.

Screen for garage door opening. Possibly adjustable legs turn ramp into a porch; screened in if possible.

Move house batteries - AGMs - inside. Install disconnect switch to separate batteries from house when not in use. Solar will keep batteries topped off when not in use (I use this system in our current rig).

Remove TV. We don't hit the wilderness to watch TV. Install back up camera.

If needed, run 20 amp circuit for designated recharge station. The one I installed in our current rig can recharge two phones and two iPads simultaneously. Also the PowerPoint for backup camera which doubles as security camera (the backup camera currently is mounted over the rear door).

Perhaps construct a storage shelf over the tow bar - I have an old hitch carrier which would weld right in place, and could carry firewood and other 'dirty' items we don't want inside.

Replace bulbs with LED lights.

Washer/dryer install will have to wait until I can talk DW into it... that will be the last project.


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

And I'd REALLY like automatic self leveling jacks. Not sure I can justify the expense to DW however lol


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Can anyone tell me what's under the fridge in a 240urs? My minds in overdrive and won't let me wait until Thursday to look...


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## Tourdfox (Oct 4, 2012)

RFalcon said:


> Pick up the 240urs on Thursday. Won't start mods for a month or two, as I'm finishing up a VW off frame restoration, and I've only got access to a shop for another month or two - my friend's moving to Florida *sigh*. Working full time to get that done.
> 
> But once the camper's in and my time's my own, ere's the mod list:
> 
> ...


We had a very extensive job done moving the batteries inside. Room for 4-6 volts and a little storage. Flush mounted to the floor with a really nice checkerplate box. There is pictures on here somewhere under modifications on a 280 RS. Done in 2015 0r so


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Nice job on the battery box! I'd like to mount the batteries nearer the fridge/pantry as that's where the panel leads will come down, and I want to keep all the cable runs as short as possible for efficiency sake. Again, I need to actually look inside the unit to see what I can do. Not as concerned about off-gassing with AGMs.

If anyone's interested, here's a link to a detailed solar install I documented on our current rig for another forum:

http://www.cheaprvliving.com/forums/Thread-Documenting-my-solar-install?highlight=Solar+install

Good read, I think, for anyone contemplating doing a solar install...


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## JDStremel3 (Sep 18, 2012)

RFalcon said:


> Pick up the 240urs on Thursday. Won't start mods for a month or two, as I'm finishing up a VW off frame restoration, and I've only got access to a shop for another month or two - my friend's moving to Florida *sigh*. Working full time to get that done.
> But once the camper's in and my time's my own, ere's the mod list:
> First, install the Trimetric battery monitor to start getting a history of amperage usage, so I can plan the solar panel system. Once we've been out for a month so so, I'll have a good idea of my storage and panel requirements. Then I can do the install.
> Design and construct a brace for the slide out bed, as well as extend the mattress about 8" so we can sleep N/S in the unit. Construct covers for the windows on either side of the bed which will permit the windows to be open but vision blocked so the fantastic fan can pull air through while we're sleeping. Perhaps a heavier curtain separating the sleeping area, for when ones awake and one's asleep; and we don't need the airflow.
> ...


Question, you're removing the TV because you don't hit the wilderness to watch TV but considering on installing a designated 20amp charge station for iPads and phones? That's one beefy charge station, most electronics only pull maybe 1-3amps. I only keep the tv so when we just do a quick weekend trip somewhere we can watch a movie if we want to. But I agree with you when you go camping in the wilderness you shouldn't be watching TV, go outside and do something!


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

JDStremel3 said:


> RFalcon said:
> 
> 
> > Pick up the 240urs on Thursday. Won't start mods for a month or two, as I'm finishing up a VW off frame restoration, and I've only got access to a shop for another month or two - my friend's moving to Florida *sigh*. Working full time to get that done.
> ...


I installed a four point recharge station in our current rig - 20 amp circuit, and each point has a 3 amp inline fuse. Two phones and two iPads will pull about 8 amps total. The backup/security camera also plugs in there, as well as a rechargeable flashlight. Not sure how many amps they pull, but neither exceeds the inline fuses. I could change it to a 10 amp circuit by installing a 10 amp fuse, but I had a 20 amp lying around. I could change the inline fuses to 5 amps, but I had 3 amp laying around. The wire IIRC was good for 30 amps. It was just easier to add a circuit than tap into an existing one somewhere, after trying to track the circuit to make sure I wasn't going to overload it. It's not really that beefy. Just saw no reason to place unnecessary limitations since all the circuit components would handle over 20 amps. Never know what else I may wish to plug in...


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

We picked up the unit and spent the weekend in it. We decided to keep the dinette and couch - there is a sufficient feeling of space with them intact, and the couch isn't as uncomfortable as I originally thought - especially if I use the dinette seat as a foot rest *grin*. There are no empty spaces in the electric box to run additional circuits for anything, but there are many more outlets in the Outback than in our truck camper, so it's not an issue. Need to make some type of platform near the bed for laying phones and ipads at night - the king size mattress takes up the entire slideout. The unit's already equipped with LED lights. So my original list has shortened.

Look for places inside to install house batteries, cutoff switch, and shunt for battery monitor, which will be conducive to a short cable run from panels and charge controller - perhaps under the couch, if I run the cables from the panel down the fridge vent, though I'll have to make an access panel. I think there might be space near the water heater. Won't know until I open it up.

Just an update, if anyone's interested in this stuff...


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## BACK2GAS (Sep 9, 2016)

As the owner of the same model I'm very interested in your solar project. I'm completely new to trailers/ RV's etc. My wife and I have been using the trailer since we got it in October of last year however and we love it. Just got back from Yosemite yesterday actually. Cleaned it up before taking back to the storage lot, test fitted my Ducati Multistrada and it fit perfectly so it'll be coming with us next month for sure. I mounted a large metal shelf made by "Stromberg Carlson" above the battery area for a generator.

I would also like to use the ramp as a porch or something and screen in at least the doorway. I'll be interested to see what you come with for a back up camera because I can use all the help I can get when backing up!


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

The backup camera is fairly simple: we have a YADA digital wireless setup (about $130) for the receiver. We used it on a truck camper, but other users have indicated it works on a 28' camper as well. The actual camera online because it could be hardwired into the lighting system, or plugged into a 12v powerpoint. The camera can be mounted to the bumper, or we attached it higher up on the camper, which gave a better view, and we used it as a 'mirror' while driving as well. May need to be careful hardwiring in it so it gets power constantly, not just when the backup lights are on. We didnt screw the camera into the camper, but used double backed tape, then lap sealed it. Held up for five years with no indication it would ever fail. I wonder if I can sync another camera, hooked onto my truck, to make it easier to line up the hitch. I suppose as long as only one camera at a time were powered, it would work.

https://www.amazon.com/Yada-Digital-Wireless-Backup-Monitor/dp/B007AAUTG8


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

I saved the 250AH 6v batteries from the truck camper to use for the battery array in the Outback, since they were new. Just spent two weeks in the PNW (camperless) so I haven't had time to investigate placement. It would be easier to mount them in the garage area, as I'm thinking about 3 270 watt panels over the garage. That should support another pair of 6v batteries. Probably don't need that much, but ... lol. Maybe just run the wiring through the roof and lap seal well, just as they do for antenna cables. But I still have to finish up another project before I start on solar. So still time for planning.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

BACK2GAS said:


> As the owner of the same model I'm very interested in your solar project. I'm completely new to trailers/ RV's etc. My wife and I have been using the trailer since we got it in October of last year however and we love it. Just got back from Yosemite yesterday actually. Cleaned it up before taking back to the storage lot, test fitted my Ducati Multistrada and it fit perfectly so it'll be coming with us next month for sure. I mounted a large metal shelf made by "Stromberg Carlson" above the battery area for a generator.
> 
> I would also like to use the ramp as a porch or something and screen in at least the doorway. I'll be interested to see what you come with for a back up camera because I can use all the help I can get when backing up!


I just installed this Furrion Camera on my trailer 2 weeks ago and used it for the first time over Memorial Day Weekend. Install was a SNAP! Just popped out one marker light and tapped into that power source. Now the camera has power whenever I hookup the trailer....perfect. The vision field is incredible. I had zero dropped signal from the back of my 37' 5th wheel to the cab of my F-350. Doesn't get any better than that!

This is really the best camera/monitor I could fine. Did a LOT of research before I bought it.

Link to Amazon


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

BACK2GAS said:


> As the owner of the same model I'm very interested in your solar project. I'm completely new to trailers/ RV's etc. My wife and I have been using the trailer since we got it in October of last year however and we love it. Just got back from Yosemite yesterday actually. Cleaned it up before taking back to the storage lot, test fitted my Ducati Multistrada and it fit perfectly so it'll be coming with us next month for sure. I mounted a large metal shelf made by "Stromberg Carlson" above the battery area for a generator.
> 
> I would also like to use the ramp as a porch or something and screen in at least the doorway. I'll be interested to see what you come with for a back up camera because I can use all the help I can get when backing up!


Ok...for your solar question, that will take a LOT more planning. Think about where you camp and if it has direct sunlight or would a portable solution be better for you. I have 4 panels on roof, but I'm thinking about adding a portable solution for those days where my trailer just isn't getting enough direct sunlight.

Here is the layout of my system. I've been at this a while, but it will give you some ideas to think about. Like..do you ever want to install an inverter to have 110v while dry camping?

Note...you can click on the link in my signature to jump to my web site (and blog) to find all these items documented. I'm happy to keep posting them here, because Outbackers.com is AWESOME!!


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Oregon_Camper has put up a detailed layout, and he also addressed one consideration I like to bring up: do you really need 110v in your camper? When planning, bear in mind there's a conversion cost of about 10% when running power through an inverter. So every amp you pull out of an inverter is pulling 1.1 amps from the battery. We don't use one, which eliminates the AC and microwave for our boondocking. If AC becomes a must, we find shorepower. More often, though, we just travel to areas of the country where AC isn't necessary during the current season; but not everyone has that option.

OC (pardon the abbreviation) also makes an excellent point about planning your system. There are three basic considerations for system size: daily usage amount (amps), storage battery size (amp hours), and recharging capability (panel wattage). You should consider each in that order. Below is a general guide I use to estimate system size:

A trimetric battery monitor or similar device installed now can give you an accurate idea of your power usage on a daily basis; or you can estimate using any number of worksheets found online. Estimate high.

Once you have a daily usage in mind, consider how many days you'd like to be out with no charging available (your solar panels aren't going to work in the rain, and provide limited power on overcast days, so you should plan for several days of bad weather). I plan for four days. So your battery array should hold up for - in my opinion - four days of usage. You decide whats right for you. Also keep in mind you shouldn't run your batteries below 50%, so whatever you determine your four day amp usage to be, double that figure for the size of your battery array (in amp-hours).

Finally comes recharging capability. This gets complicated until you figure out how a three stage charger works, but this is just a general guideline, so we'll ignore that for now. Lets keep it simple. A 100 watt panel is generally rated somewhere around 7 amps an hour (in perfect lighting conditions only). In reality, figure no more than 5. (My 400 watt panel kit came with a charge controller only rated at 360 watts. When I queried the manufacturer, they advised a 400 watt system will not create more than 340 watts. So the charge controller was appropriately rated.) Now you estimate how many hours of clear sunlight you'll get a day. This will vary on region of the country. We travel nationwide, so I used a 3 hour estimate. So I estimate 15 amps of recharging, per day, from a 100 watt panel (5 amps x 3 hours). *See caveat below.

So when I determined the system in the link I posted above, I estimated 25 amps of power usage a day (we're minimalists). I wanted four days of time on station without recharging, which would be 100 amps. Double that, for storage purposes, and I acquired a 200+ amphour battery array. Now I had to replace that 25 amps of daily usage using the three hour time frame I've allotted myself, so I'd need 8+ amps per hour of charging. If 100 watts of panels puts out - in perfect lighting conditions - 5amps, I'd need (2) 100 watt panels. I actually went with four because that's what I could fit on my truck camper, and there wasn't any reason NOT to use 4. I believe in overkill. We've never run out of power, and rarely ran our batteries below 85% over a stormy patch of two days.

*Caveat - Again, this merely for planning purposes. Whatever your panels are producing, the charge controller determines the amount of amps going into your battery. It's not a constant rate. It will rarely be 5 amps per 100 watts of panel. (Research 3 stage chargers). We planned for three hours of good light, but the panels will still charge even in overcast lighting - just not as much. We may not get 3 hours of good light on an overcast day, but the panels will still put out SOME charge - always enough for our purposes. We also use more than 25 amps per day, but we charge electronics, for example, during the daylight, when the panels produce more amperage than the batteries are taking in. If the panels are creating 20 amps, and the batteries are only taking in 1 or 2 amps (for various reasons), that extra power is wasted. Might as well use it. Our system, for our usage, makes us energy independent. No matter the conditions or the time we've spent on station, we've never gotten our batteries down to 50%. No generator. Start with the battery monitor and figure out your usage before you commit any more money to the system.

But we've got a new camper, so we start over doing our estimating. Our TC had .2 amps of phantom power draw (powers sensors and other small draws); the Outback probably has a larger phantom draw.

Lastly, in regards to OC's post, your camper already has a converter system, for converting 120v to 12v., distributing power in the camper, and charging your batteries from shore power. It might not be the most efficient system, but it works. Trying to figure all that out at once is a distraction for someone new to electrical systems (forgive me if I'm assuming wrongly). For now, worry about the panels, the charge controller, the batteries, and the wiring for those. You can update the camper's built in system later, if needed.

When I get around to the installation this summer, I'll post photos of the build.


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Received a a black mesh tarp, of the type used in sports facilities, today; an 6x8 tarp, which blocks 70% s light, was $22. The actual dimensions are supposed to be 9" shorter, so 63" x 87". We're taking the camper out for a long weekend, so I'll Velcro it in place and see what we have. If the industrial strength adhesive on the Velcro doesn't take to the mesh, I'll have to add stitching. But we'll see what happens.


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Just for info, the storm door idea didn't pan out. Bought one at Menards, which was going to need trimmed 3" at the bottom, so it was a wood core door. Too heavy for the wall frame. Might still look around for a thinner paneled aluminum construction, but not sure I can trim the bottom successfully. Mobile home doors would work, but too expensive. Might try hollow core closet doors, which would be doable. Just want a tight enough fit to help keep allergy inducing stuff out of the cabin area.


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