# Solar Install



## Nathan

The install is on a Rockwood, but was nearly identical to my previous OB install....
(Sorry for the camera shake in some pictures... I was using my cell phone)

Here's the converter under the Refrigerator:









2 screws to remove the cover, then 4 more to remove the converter (it pulls straight out):









What else is under there:









Put all supplies on the roof, then climb up carefully since it isn't a walk on roof...

















Screw panels on one at a time using Dicor under and over the screws









I choose to make a little air dam out of Dicor on the leading edge of the panels (not sure if this is needed but figured it would keep wind from blowing under them)


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## Nathan

Make sure wires run under panels or are otherwise held down (Dicor here)









Remove refrigerator vent top (4 screws)









Cut a small hole in the mesh screen to allow wire to run down into compartment (Here my wires join into 1 to make fishing them down easier)









Replace vent cover and re-dicor screws.

Drill hole in floor of refrigerator compartment and run wire down into trailer. *IMPORTANT:* Caulk hole after running wire so propane couldn't enter trailer if fridge malfunctioned









Mount charge controller and connect positive wire to open fuse slot









Connect negative wire from charge controller to neutral bus on floor behind converter









Might as well install an inverter while you have everything apart.








(connect it to another open fuse slot)









Install 2 appropriately sized fuses and re-install converter and converter cover









Ok, you are done. Elapsed time ~3 hours.


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## luverofpeanuts

very cool. What solar panels and charge controller did you use?


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## Nathan

This one: Sunforce 60W

It's not a high end system, but works for what we need it to do.


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## Oregon_Camper

Thanks for the info. Did you find a stud on the roof to mount the front screws into or did to you just screw into the roofing?

I have everything at home for this but still have 5 more days of vacation in Hawaii.







. My installation pictures and notes will be posted when I complete this.


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## Nathan

I just screwed into the underlayment. That held the last set.

BTW, thanks for rubbing it in about Hawaii.


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## willingtonpaul

i am in the beginning stages of learning about solar options. electrical is my weakest skillset around the house and camper. but i think that having a solar option on the trailer is a direction i want to go to limit genset use, so please bear with me on the first round of questions....

you are using this setup to top up your batteries, right ? this size setup is not really enough to run much off the inverter, right ? like could you run a TV off the inverter, or would it just drain the batteries down quickly even in good sunlight ? are you using a better battery than the standard one that comes with our trailers (group 27, right ?) ?

thanks for taking the time to reply.


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## Dan Borer

Paul et al,

I installed a single 60 watt panel plus a controller on my 29RLS and a pair of 6 volt Costco batteries. I run a 400 watt inverter to power both the Legend LCD tv that came with the trailer and my DirecTV receiver. My system keeps my batteries fully charged at all times while stored and when we are dry camping we don't worry about how much television we watch. A 60 watt system has the ability to generate about 3.8 amps per hour. In sunny SoCal that puts about 30 to 35 amps (or more) of charge back into the batteries per day. So far I haven't had an issue running short on power on the up to 4 day trips we take. I'm sure I'm using more power each day than the solar can put back in but the 6 volt batteries seem to be up to the task.


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## Tangooutback

I have a few questions:

1) Does the controller have a sensor to stop battery charging once it is full?

2) How long is the expected life cycle of this 60W panel?

3) Any periodic maintenance required on solar panel? cleaning? buffing? conditioning?

4) If you store your TT for a few months, once your battery is charged up, where does the generated power go? any harmful effect on the panel if generated power has no where to go to?


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## Dan Borer

To answer your questions:

1) Yes, it limits charge current and voltage to safe levels. There is an adjustment on my controller to select the battery type, thus the charge regimen used.

2) These panels generally are warranted to produce up to 80% of their rated power for 25 years.

3) I just clean the glass top surface when I wash the trailer. A coating of dust or worse just lowers the output of the panel.

4) From what I understand these panels will put out up to their rated power if there is an outlet for it, such as a device or the controller. They don't generate more power than what is being consumed at the moment, up to their rated power. No moving parts, noise or anything to wear out.

I've had my system installed for just over a year and it was the best $300 I have spent for accessories. My friends have to fire up a generator to recharge every other day or so while my genset has nothing better to do than sit in the bed to keep my truck from blowing away.


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## Nathan

A good solar panel will be warrantied for 25 years. I think these amorphous panels are more like 10-15yr life expectancy. They aren't the type where silicone crystals are grown and then sliced and wired together. Rather it is a coating applied to glass, so I understand they have a shorter life expectancy. They also have a lower efficiency, so you'll see them in lower power applications. However, they are cheaper, and for a RV, I figure they are good for as long as I'll keep it....


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## Nathan

Dan Borer said:


> I've had my system installed for just over a year and it was the best $300 I have spent for accessories. My friends have to fire up a generator to recharge every other day or so while my genset has nothing better to do than sit in the bed to keep my truck from blowing away.


I love to watch the rangers at the National parks. The last trip was with the big 5'er, but he rolled his eyes looking at the rig and then proceeded to start in about generator rules. I politely interrupted him and said that we didn't have a gasoline generator, but were solar powered. That brought a smile to his face and a simple, but every so meaningful "Thank you."

As for our experience on charging, we usually head for shade, so we have limited charging. However, I've never drained the battery with the solar (it did get lower in Yellowstone when we ran the furnace each night). I previously ran 2 6V's but want to keep weights down on the new unit so I'm going to try one group 24 with the solar supplementing. I switched to LED lights and we won't need the heat this year since we'll be in the Smokies as opposed to the Rockies....


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## 2500Ram

Very nice install and if I may ask a few more questions as I have a 45w single panel ready for install that I've been playing with for about the last 2 weeks. I plan on 2 or 3 more panels down the road but for now this panel seems to be doing a great job. 
I have 2 6v gel batteries and one monster 12v gel 220ah I'm playing with. A small inverter 75w 150w surge to run my tv's dvd and sat receiver and a 2000w for the coffee pot and microwave (sparing use on this one).

Have you actually checked the amp output from the controller to the battery with your panels flat vs at a 45* angle pointing toward the sun? Reason I ask is in my playing with my panel, my "normal" charge rate is ~2.2-2.5 amp at a 45* angle. Same sun same location only the panel laying flat I only get a .9 amp charge (this is with evening sun). My voltage is still the same ~13.9vdc into the controller in both positions. Now obviously during high noon sun I "should" be getting full output from the controller but just an observation for morning and evening sun.

Second question. in your install you "connect positive wire to open fuse slot" and "Connect negative wire from charge controller to neutral bus on floor behind converter"

Would there be any benefit to running wire all the way to the battery/s vs. using the existing wire fuse slot, (if there is one on my trailer, I've got to look)

In a few weeks I'm going for a week long trip and don't want to run the Gen if I can get away with it. I've been kicking around mounting the panel vs making a stand for this trip.

Thanks.


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## Up State NY Camper

Wow, nice job Nathan.


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## MJRey

With my single 80 watt Kyocera panel mounted flat on my roof the best I have ever seen for power output is 3.2 amps. It's usually in the 2.5 to 2.8 range during the day. My panel is over 5 years old but I'd be curious to know what others are seeing. It's surprising to me when I see a 60 watt panel putting out much more than my system. I'm wondering if I need to adjust my mounting to improve the panels effectiveness.


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## Nathan

2500Ram said:


> Very nice install and if I may ask a few more questions as I have a 45w single panel ready for install that I've been playing with for about the last 2 weeks. I plan on 2 or 3 more panels down the road but for now this panel seems to be doing a great job.
> I have 2 6v gel batteries and one monster 12v gel 220ah I'm playing with. A small inverter 75w 150w surge to run my tv's dvd and sat receiver and a 2000w for the coffee pot and microwave (sparing use on this one).
> 
> Have you actually checked the amp output from the controller to the battery with your panels flat vs at a 45* angle pointing toward the sun? Reason I ask is in my playing with my panel, my "normal" charge rate is ~2.2-2.5 amp at a 45* angle. Same sun same location only the panel laying flat I only get a .9 amp charge (this is with evening sun). My voltage is still the same ~13.9vdc into the controller in both positions. Now obviously during high noon sun I "should" be getting full output from the controller but just an observation for morning and evening sun.
> 
> Second question. in your install you "connect positive wire to open fuse slot" and "Connect negative wire from charge controller to neutral bus on floor behind converter"
> 
> Would there be any benefit to running wire all the way to the battery/s vs. using the existing wire fuse slot, (if there is one on my trailer, I've got to look)
> 
> In a few weeks I'm going for a week long trip and don't want to run the Gen if I can get away with it. I've been kicking around mounting the panel vs making a stand for this trip.
> 
> Thanks.


Haven't checked the amps, but you will get more with a direct sun pointing.

I don't see a big benefit to one connection vs the other. Prehaps someone else wants to comment. I did it because it was easier....


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## Dan Borer

I haven't put a meter to my system so I cannot vouch for the actual charge rate. I just stated what the panel is rated at and I understand that it may not put out that much under anything less than ideal conditions.

As for ease of connection, I dropped the wire down the refer vent and tapped into the electrical system at the 12 volt lugs for the refrigerator connection. I put a fuse in the line before the connection for protection. I elected to use this connection method only because I am using a relatively low output panel. I wouldn't use this method with any more current than my system produces. This worked for years on the old trailer and it works well on the Outback too.


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## 2500Ram

Dan Borer said:


> I haven't put a meter to my system so I cannot vouch for the actual charge rate. I just stated what the panel is rated at and I understand that it may not put out that much under anything less than ideal conditions.
> 
> As for ease of connection, I dropped the wire down the refer vent and tapped into the electrical system at the 12 volt lugs for the refrigerator connection. I put a fuse in the line before the connection for protection. I elected to use this connection method only because I am using a relatively low output panel. I wouldn't use this method with any more current than my system produces. This worked for years on the old trailer and it works well on the Outback too.


That was my next question as I have some 6 or 8 gage wire in the fuse panel that connects to the battery, (at least positive, ground goes to frame) Why did you put in a fuse before the main lugs in the dc panel? Are you using a controller in your setup or going from solar panel to battery?

Sorry if this a hijack Nathan, I'll start a new post if you want.

Thanks again.


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## Nathan

2500Ram said:


> I haven't put a meter to my system so I cannot vouch for the actual charge rate. I just stated what the panel is rated at and I understand that it may not put out that much under anything less than ideal conditions.
> 
> As for ease of connection, I dropped the wire down the refer vent and tapped into the electrical system at the 12 volt lugs for the refrigerator connection. I put a fuse in the line before the connection for protection. I elected to use this connection method only because I am using a relatively low output panel. I wouldn't use this method with any more current than my system produces. This worked for years on the old trailer and it works well on the Outback too.


That was my next question as I have some 6 or 8 gage wire in the fuse panel that connects to the battery, (at least positive, ground goes to frame) Why did you put in a fuse before the main lugs in the dc panel? Are you using a controller in your setup or going from solar panel to battery?

Sorry if this a hijack Nathan, I'll start a new post if you want.

Thanks again.
[/quote]
Not at all. I see a new thread was started, but hijack away. I need to get to camping now anyway!!!


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## chadman64

Just wanted to say thanks for this write-up on installing a solar panel. I just put in a single 100w panel on my 21RS and, following these instructions, I can honestly say the project went better than planned. That never happens! Can't wait to check it out this summer and moving to 6volt AGM batteries next year.

chadman64


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