# Roof Maintenance



## simpson (Jul 23, 2007)

This may be a dumb question, but I am browsing while at work looking for info on cleaning the 26RS for the winter. I am planning on giving it a good bath before winterizing, but was curious if we can walk on the roof? I am guessing no - but I haven't really been up there to look at it as I have only owned if for a few months.

I am still unsure about winterizing, but will be browsing this site for info. Any hints?


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## campmg (Dec 24, 2005)

They say you can't but most here will walk on the roof. Be careful and try to step on the supports. Some will use a little plywood to stand / sit on to help distribute their weight. They sell roof cleaning and conditioning products but I haven't used any yet. I just wash it with the basic rv soap but will probably do it soon since it's not 110 degrees here anymore.


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## bill_pfaff (Mar 11, 2005)

It's a danged if you do and danged if you don't situation.

I get up there once a year (end of season) to wash everything, wax the A/C cover, and put roof protector on the roof (made by ProtectAll). I know they say you don't need to clean or put anything on the rubber but I sleep better at night when I do.

We also cover the TT in the winter so I need to get up there to put on and take off the cover.

As stated earlier, I try to find the braces to walk on but have missed a number of times and it isn't a warm and fuzzy feeling.

Of course if I don't do anything then I feel like I'm not taking care of business up there.

Like I said, danged if you do and danged if you don't. Guess it goes to what you are comfortable with.


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

I dont walk on mine but im a big dude. If your a buck o'5, go for it. Just be carefull. I wash the roof with a roof cleaner in the shade, let it dry and inspect all the seams and seals. Reseal it with Dicor sealent. I also use a UV protectant a few times a year. I cover with an ADCO cover when im done but that wont be till Jan 08.


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## fspieg (Jul 31, 2006)

I go down both sides on an extension ladder using a commercial heavy rag mop I bought at Sam's club just for this. Works great to get around the air conditioner and all of the other obstacle's. Generally I use a 50/50 mix of simple green in a tank sprayer. I let it dry for a day or two and inspect the Dicor and spray on Protectall roof protector. Like others said it just makes me feel better and if a leak occurs at least I can say it wasn't because I didn't try.

Rick


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## Ralph & Brenda Miller (May 1, 2007)

simpson said:


> This may be a dumb question, but I am browsing while at work looking for info on cleaning the 26RS for the winter. I am planning on giving it a good bath before winterizing, but was curious if we can walk on the roof? I am guessing no - but I haven't really been up there to look at it as I have only owned if for a few months.
> 
> I am still unsure about winterizing, but will be browsing this site for info. Any hints?


I have a 2003 26RS, and I winterize pretty throughly. Last year while waxing the refrigerator vent & the Maxx Air cover over the bathroom vent, I was even using a piece of plywood and I heard noises that I didn't like (but no leaks this summer), so I would advise staying away from the refrigerator vent/ bathroom vent/ shower bubble area at least. It will save you a lot of headaches in the future. I still haven't figured out how to attch files, so if you send me your e-mail address, I will send you the winterizing list (that I made up) that I use, as well as a general winterizing list.

Ralph Miller ([email protected])


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## simpson (Jul 23, 2007)

Thanks for the replys. I am a pretty big guy myself (6'4" and 200#) so I stayed off the rood. I got an extension handle and scrub brush and it cleaned up pretty well. I also used a power washer on it so I think I got it pretty good. 
Ralph - you have mail!


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Hey, could you guiys post the winterizing list when you get a minute. It would be good to compare to and make sure i have not forgotten anything.
Thanks!


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Sayonara said:


> Hey, could you guiys post the winterizing list when you get a minute. It would be good to compare to and make sure i have not forgotten anything.
> Thanks!


Here's what I do, in central Illinois.

> Dump and thoroughly rinse GRAY and BLACK tanks. Get out all the yucky stuff (hot water loosens a LOT of grease and other stuff)

> Thoroughly drain GRAY and BLACK tanks, then close dump valves

> Remove caps from both low-point drain lines and open fresh water tank drain valve

> Open all faucets in the trailer - including the outside faucets

> Put water heater bypass valve in BYPASS mode (I have one valve that turns 90 degrees)

> Remove hot water heater drain plug (outside) and open pop-off valve, to speed draining (but close it when done)

_(I leave the drain plug out all winter - and I store the plug in the kitchen sink, It's easy to find next spring!)_

> When fresh water tank is drained, turn on pump for 10 seconds, then OFF (clears water from suction tube)

> Remove suction tube (fitting) from pump inlet and replace with 6' long "winterizing" suction tube (I made)

> Put other end of winterizing suction tube into gallon jug of RV antifreeze (pink)

> Close all faucets and replace low point drain caps

> Turn on pump

> Open the HOT faucet, furthest away from the pump until nothing but PINK flows out.

_(I try to capture - with a small bucket - and recycle as much of the antifreeze as possible. That way, I can get by with less than 2 gallons.)_

> Turn on the COLD at the same place until PINK flows out (let some go in the trap, to winterize it, also)

_(Watch that you don't suck the jug dry. Recycle what you can. 2 Gallons should do you, but buy 3, just in case. You'll use it next year if not this year.)_

> Open HOT, then COLD at the faucets next furthest away from the pump, etc, until all faucets have flowed PINK

_(dont forget the toilet and the outside faucets)_

> Go to city water hookup - remove screened seal - push IN the check valve until PINK flows (don't stand in front of it!)

> Turn pump OFF, then open faucets briefly to dissapate pressure

> Pour remaining recycled PINK down all drains and and toilet (need some in BLACK tank and a little in the toilet bowl)

> Open dump valves and collect PINK (and whatever else) in bucket. Dispose of properly.

_(I flush mine, because the PINK stuff is non-toxic, but I don't know if it would cause problems in a septic tank)_

> Leave Gray and Black dump valves OPEN all winter - end cap OFF outflow tube

*EDIT* > Disconnect winterizing suction tube from pump inlet and replace freshwater tank suction tube to pump inlet - tighten.

_(Check this for leaks next spring, just to be sure that it isn't dripping)_

> Remove all foodstuffs, canned (they freeze) and otherwise (they attract critters)

> Remove batteries from smoke and carbon monoxide detectors

> Remove any other items that could feeze and break (don't forget spare flashlight batteries, flashlights, etc)

> Move trailer to permanent winter storage spot, then remove trailer battery(ies) and keep warm and charged through the winter

> I cover tires year round. Also, put wooden boards beneath tires if on concrete or limestone/gravel to protect rubber

> Open roof vents, if you have the Max-Aire vents. (The trailer will smell springtime fresh next spring.)

> Prop open fridge doors

> Lock 'er up, go home, crack open a beverage, and sit down to plan out next year's adventures!

If you have any in-line filters or accumulator/surge tank, you'll need to isolate them and drain, also. But those will be different from install to install.

Hey Outbackers. Did I forget anything?

Mike

(PS: I'm gonna print this off when I get done posting, so I'll have my checklist in a few weeks!)


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Thats Great ~ Thanks !!! Im thinking if there is anything I could add. other than opening the beverage at the begining too...


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## simpson (Jul 23, 2007)

Thanks for the info. I do have 1 question though - why mention:
Leave Gray and Black dump valves OPEN all winter - end cap OFF outflow tube

Why do you want to leave that open? I also got a winterizing checklist e-mailed to me and it mentions to open the fresh water tank plug and leave it out. Why do we want to leave this open? All other open areas are to be taped off, but we leave these open?


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## simpson (Jul 23, 2007)

This was the checklist sent to me:
Camper Winterization

•	Drain as much water (from tanks & lines) as possible
•	If you "blow" out the water 40psi max (do this before adding the anti-freeze)
•	Remove cap from water heater (lower left)
•	Drain water out of and close lower drain valves (gray & black water)
•	Turn by-pass valves (to open by-pass)
•	Connect line (or install a bypass) so pump "siphons" antifreeze. Turn pump on (to pump RV anti-freeze (pink))
•	Open each spigot (one at a time until pink flows out) (hot & cold water/ shower/ toilet/ outside shower)
•	Pour about 1 cup of anti-freeze down the toilet for the lower drain valves (black & gray)
•	Flush the toilet. The liquid in the toilet bowl should be pink (anti-freeze). Do this after dumping the anti-freeze down the toilet
•	Don't forget the auxiliary shower
•	Remove the shower hoses
•	Tape off all openings (heater, refrigerator vents etc.)
•	Place baking soda box in refrigerator (don't close refrigerator/ freezer completely to avoid them smelling)
•	Remove perishables (shampoo, liquid soaps, liquid cleaners, batteries, Aqua-Chem, etc.)
•	Set some mice traps
•	When finished, open fresh water tank plug and leave it out
•	Charge battery (charge monthly whether removing or not, but, removing is preferred)


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

simpson said:


> Thanks for the info. I do have 1 question though - why mention:
> Leave Gray and Black dump valves OPEN all winter - end cap OFF outflow tube
> 
> Why do you want to leave that open? I also got a winterizing checklist e-mailed to me and it mentions to open the fresh water tank plug and leave it out. Why do we want to leave this open? All other open areas are to be taped off, but we leave these open?


I leave the dump valves open and the outflow end cap off just in case there is any water still lurking that could freeze and break the plastic. I'm never sure that all water is gone, since I cannot see it. I operate on the old adage, "Better safe than sorry." It can't hurt anything.

I leave the freshwater tank valve open (and if you have a plug, leave it out) for much the same reasons. Especiall, since I don't put any antifreeze in the freshwater tank, I want to make sure that it dries out (evaporation) and that no water can freeze and break anything.

Just my way of doing things.

Mike

NOTE: I went back and added a step to reconnect the freshwater suction tube to the pump inlet. Oops!


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

I would suggest leaving the tank valves open and the end cap off is an invitation for varmits to take up residence during the off season! Just like the hot water heater, there is plenty of expansion room in the tanks (if they are emptied) that forming ice should not be a problem. Same would go for the fresh water tank.


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## fspieg (Jul 31, 2006)

GoVols said:


> I would suggest leaving the tank valves open and the end cap off is an invitation for varmint's to take up residence during the off season! Just like the hot water heater, there is plenty of expansion room in the tanks (if they are emptied) that forming ice should not be a problem. Same would go for the fresh water tank.


Agree!!
If you feel it is a must to leave the cap off of the drain I would suggest putting a piece of fiberglass screen wire over it and retain with a wire tie. Also I put a piece of fiberglass screen behind the refrigerator access panel and duct tape over the holes in the bumper end caps. I leave the trailer plugged in all winter so these things have power http://www.victorpest.com/store/product.as...HMH35UGXJ2F3573. I may be a little paranoid about mice but if you have ever seen the damage they can do you know why.

Rick


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