# Red Light Flashing In The Ac



## Ravens35

I had my RV plugged into the house, and didn't relieze the AC was on. It tripped my breaker in the house. Now there is a red light flashing inside the unit. I have disconnected the battery, and it still flashes when I hook the battery back up. Did I break the AC?

The heat still runs, but no fans running from the AC vents.


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## mountainlady56

Ravens35 said:


> I had my RV plugged into the house, and didn't relieze the AC was on. It tripped my breaker in the house. Now there is a red light flashing inside the unit. I have disconnected the battery, and it still flashes when I hook the battery back up. Did I break the AC?
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> The heat still runs, but no fans running from the AC vents.
> [snapback]124771[/snapback]​


Did you check the breaker panel under the fridge? It may have tripped, as well.
Darlene action


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## mandy1

I noticed the flashing red light up inside of my ac unit the first trip we took.
I searched the owners manual and never found an explanation on what it was and why it was flashing. I called Carrier and a tech told me that the flashing red light indicated that there was 12 volt power to the unit. This would explain why the light stops flashing when you disconnect the battery. 
If anyone else has any additional info pertaining to the flashing light I sure would be interested.
As for the fan not running, I would check the breakers in the camper first and maybe reset the remote.

Hope this helps


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## CamperAndy

To fully reset the AC you must power it down completely by removing both the AC and DC power from it. Check the AC breakers when you power back up to make sure the breaker for the AC is not tripped. The flashing red led is normal.

The batteries in the remote tend to die quickly so if you left it on then replace those and make sure to press the reset button on the back of the remote.

Last but not least make sure the AC responds with a beep when you are trying to change the settings.

If it still does not work let us know.


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## Ravens35

The breaker is not tripped. The AC is responding with a beep when I turn it on, but still no fan.

Maybe I need to have it hooked up to 30 amp power for it to run? Although it did run for a bit while it was plugges into 120 power at the house, before the breaker in the house tripped.


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## Ravens35

I plugged it back into 120 power and it did work. I shut it off right away. It looks like I got it fixed. Thanks for all the help.


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## mountainlady56

Ravens35 said:


> The breaker is not tripped. The AC is responding with a beep when I turn it on, but still no fan.
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> Maybe I need to have it hooked up to 30 amp power for it to run? Although it did run for a bit while it was plugges into 120 power at the house, before the breaker in the house tripped.
> [snapback]124826[/snapback]​


Yep.......the a/c is the one thing you're not supposed to run without 30 amp power.
Darlene action


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## Doxie-Doglover

This is for Andy, the Outback Wizard: when I was dry camping the remote was not on, positive, 100% it was not on. For 2 nights the furnace kicked on when it was cold outside. So, I assumed it must have a setting that tells it to come on automatically when certain temp. Anyway, I reached up the unit on the ceiling and turned it off manually. It quit kicking on after that and from then on I could use the remote, and the unit would shut off when I turned remote off. What was that all about Trailer God?








(ps) will get that thing on LB sent...


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## CamperAndy

Doxie-Doglover said:


> This is for Andy, the Outback Wizard: when I was dry camping the remote was not on, positive, 100% it was not on. For 2 nights the furnace kicked on when it was cold outside. So, I assumed it must have a setting that tells it to come on automatically when certain temp. Anyway, I reached up the unit on the ceiling and turned it off manually. It quit kicking on after that and from then on I could use the remote, and the unit would shut off when I turned remote off. What was that all about Trailer God?
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I had to put my feet up as it was starting to get deep in here.









The remote can be turned off but if the furnace did not respond with a corresponding beep then it does not know you really wanted to turn it off. Also if you had happened to have pressed Emergency heat then the furnace would have set it self to 63 degrees.

This is a trick to save battery life on the remote. Turn it on to set the furnace or AC to the setting you want then cover up the IR transmitter and turn the remote off. The furnace or AC will continue to respond to the last setting even if the remote is turned off.


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## Doxie-Doglover

CamperAndy said:


> Doxie-Doglover said:
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> This is for Andy, the Outback Wizard: when I was dry camping the remote was not on, positive, 100% it was not on.Â For 2 nights the furnace kicked on when it was cold outside. So, I assumed it must have a setting that tells it to come on automatically when certain temp. Anyway, I reached up the unit on the ceiling and turned it off manually. It quit kicking on after that and from then on I could use the remote, and the unit would shut off when I turned remote off. What was that all about Trailer God?Â
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> The remote can be turned off but if the furnace did not respond with a corresponding beep then it does not know you really wanted to turn it off. Also if you had happened to have pressed Emergency heat then the furnace would have set it self to 63 degrees.
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> This is a trick to save battery life on the remote. Turn it on to set the furnace or AC to the setting you want then cover up the IR transmitter and turn the remote off. The furnace or AC will continue to respond to the last setting even if the remote is turned off.
> [snapback]124907[/snapback]​
Click to expand...

thanks TGA! (Traile God Andy)


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## rtavi

Our first trip I saw the blinking red light and tried to figure out what it was for. Called the dealer and finally found someone who said it just meant there was power. Now I may be foolish but wouldn't it have occured to to designer of the system that a green led would have been more logical ? To most people a blinking red light signals a problem and green means ok.


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## CJ999

rtavi said:


> Our first trip I saw the blinking red light and tried to figure out what it wasÂ for.Â Called the dealer and finally found someone who said it just meant there was power.Â Now I may be foolish but wouldn't it have occured to to designer of the system that a green led would have been more logical ?Â To most people a blinking red light signals a problem and greed means ok.
> [snapback]129791[/snapback]​


The lyric frm one of my favorite songs comes to mind when I think of the designer of the A/C system: "I'd love to spit some beech-nut in that dude's eye."

I might have bought an Outback anyway, but I would have kept shopping for a while if I had known how lame the A/C system works. Why do we even need a blinking light at all to tell us the A/C has 12 volt current running to it? 12 Volt current won't run the A/C.

I know the furnace is controlled there too. I'm just tired of trying to load our trailer in the summer with the A/C blasting for hours to keep it at 90 degrees inside.


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## camping479

> I might have bought an Outback anyway, but I would have kept shopping for a while if I had known how lame the A/C system works. Why do we even need a blinking light at all to tell us the A/C has 12 volt current running to it. 12 Volt current won't run the A/C... (I know the furnace is controlled there too. I'm just tired of trying to load our trailer in the summer with the A/C blasting for hours to keep it at 90 degrees inside.)


You might want to have you ducts checked out to see if there is an air leak somewhere dumping air into the roof space. Ours cools down the outback pretty quickly and we haven't had any trouble with it. From what I've read the carrier is supposed to be a good a/c unit.


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## CJ999

If I could figure out how to block the ducts completely and make it blow straight down, I would. It might be leaking, but I think it is just overwhelmed by 105 degree heat and the sun beating on the roof... once the sun moves around and the trailer gets into the shade, it's manageable. But ducts in the roof just don't seem to get it done out here! I think maybe I need two A/C's!


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## CamperAndy

CJ999 said:


> If I could figure out how to block the ducts completely and make it blow straight down, I would. It might be leaking, but I think it is just overwhelmed by 105 degree heat and the sun beating on the roof... once the sun moves around and the trailer gets into the shade, it's manageable. But ducts in the roof just don't seem to get it done out here! I think maybe I need two A/C's!
> [snapback]129885[/snapback]​


CJ999 - If it just blew the air down you would have one nice cool spot but the bunk room would be un usable. Maybe two A/C's would solve your problem but no other trailer would be better in the conditions you have. My trailer is in full sun and 95 degrees outside and cools it to 70 in about an hour.

You need to pull the cover down and inspect the ducting to make sure you do not have any air leaks.


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## PDX_Doug

CJ999,

I agree with Andys suggestion to check the ducting out. You would not be the first to have an issue with that.

As far as a second A/C unit, considering the climate you are in, that might not be unreasonable. Most of us do not subject our Outbacks to 105 degree temperatures very often, if at all, so one could expect that your system is having to work a good bit harder. Secondly, consider all the Class 'A' motorhomes out there with dual A/C units. Many of them do not have anymore interior volume than you do. Just because they are motorhomes, does not mean their air is any harder to cool.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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