# Levelling Trailer On Uneven Site



## CousinEddie (Jun 9, 2015)

Hi folks

Looking for some advice/best practices for leveling our Outback 25RS. The trailer has stabilizers but they don't seem sturdy enough to lift the corners. I have read about using planks for the wheels on one side but would prefer something on all 4 corners that would make the trailer more sturdy as well while I level it when its set up.

Thanks!


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

You'll need wood or the "lego" like squares under the tires to get level from side/side...then the jack in the front for front/back. BTW...don't attempt to use the stabilizers to lift the trailer. They are not meant to do that and you'll end up damaging the stabilizers.


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## Snow (Sep 27, 2011)

As said, use wood or the lego style Lynx Levelers (or the cheaper knock off types) under the tires for side to side leveling and the tongue jack for front to back. The stabilizers are just that, to help stabilize the trailer once level, not only can you damage the stabs trying to level with them but you could also tweek the trailer sub frames that the stabs attach too.


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## JDStremel3 (Sep 18, 2012)

I have two of the Anderson Levelers 3604....Got them this year but haven't been able to use them yet. All the reviews on them have been fantastic and super simple to use.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Up until we got our Montana, if we were going to a campground I was unfamiliar with, I would have a 2"x8"x6' plank in the bed, just in case. I have always had Lynx Levelers and they will make up for any additional distance needed. I have only been to one campground, once, where I needed to use all of the levelers. (Haven't been back there!)

In addition to these we bought BAL stabilizers that attach to the Stab Jack and to the trailer frame. They significantly dampened movement after leveling the trailer. In addition BAL chocks between the tires helped even more.

The "Ground Tackle" I have (and still use) consists of 2 BAL Chocks, 4 Wheel Chocks, 1 Set of Lynx Levelers, and 2 sets of blocks. The blocks are made out of 3 12" pieces of 4"X 4". Two pieces are laid side by side with a 4" space between them. The third lays across the 2 other pieces and are screwed together.

The 2 set of blocks stack together to save room. Using the blocks under the jacks reduces the distance the jack is extended and reduces the amount of "wiggle" from it. I do not use the blocks as much with the 6 point Hydraulic Leveling system I have, but using them where the rams will be extended a long distance will help me in the same way it will help you.

Eric


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## JOEANDCHRISTY (Jan 29, 2014)

CousinEddie said:


> Hi folks
> 
> Looking for some advice/best practices for leveling our Outback 25RS. The trailer has stabilizers but they don't seem sturdy enough to lift the corners. I have read about using planks for the wheels on one side but would prefer something on all 4 corners that would make the trailer more sturdy as well while I level it when its set up.
> 
> Thanks!


youtube 'leveling a trailer' and the problem is solved.


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## sulvester10 (Feb 20, 2012)

JDStremel3 said:


> I have two of the Anderson Levelers 3604....Got them this year but haven't been able to use them yet. All the reviews on them have been fantastic and super simple to use.


we have them and they work great. wife in trailer with bubble level and i back up until just past level. put wedge in and let trailer roll back and good to go.


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## CousinEddie (Jun 9, 2015)

Really like the idea of the Anderson levelers. Going to hive them a try!

Thanks everyone


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

Another thing to be conscious of when leveling on an un-level site is that the trailer can shift some when you unhook from the ball. Be sure you're properly chocked and secure and watch where you position your body when unhooking. I've had my trailer move 12-14" one time. I use the Lynx levelers (orange lego blocks) and a 6' 2x8 sometimes. The trailer leveling should all be done with blocking the wheels for side to side leveling and the tongue jack for front to rear. The stabilizers are to be used as stabilizers, not as jacks. The BAL Xchocks that go between the camper wheels are nice for added stability and security as well.


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## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

JDStremel3 said:


> I have two of the Anderson Levelers 3604....Got them this year but haven't been able to use them yet. All the reviews on them have been fantastic and super simple to use.


I bought these after Christmas after reading about them online, and tired of lugging around a long 2x8. Had to use them the first time this summer on a site, and worked perfect. Couldn't be simplier. JUst drive onto them, until the level shows the bubble in the middle, and done. Took me longer to unbox them then to level the trailer. Worthwhile purchase for any RVer


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## Goldstar225 (Oct 11, 2014)

I still use 5 1/2' 2X8's and a digital level. I've found that for each 1 degree off from level it takes 1 2X8 to compensate and bring it level.


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## spidey (Aug 8, 2012)

Goldstar225 said:


> I still use 5 1/2' 2X8's and a digital level. I've found that for each 1 degree off from level it takes 1 2X8 to compensate and bring it level.


That's why these things are great, as you just drive onto them until its level, not drive onto a board, realize it wasn't enough, back off, add another board, etc. If you go to far, just back up a little.

And they also come with a wheel chock with the other side, so works in two ways.

I was a "board" guy for years, but after using these, never again


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