# Winterizing By-Pass Valve In 2011 250Rs



## duggy

I just installed a winterizing by-pass valve in our 250 RS. The kit comes with all the pieces to attach the valve to the inlet side of the water pump. On our trailer, installing the kit there would have required removing the jack knife sofa to get access. It also would have been very difficult to reach the valve each time I winterized the trailer. I considered moving the pump closer to the front of the sofa, but that looked like a job in itself. Instead, I cut into the intake line from the fresh water tank, and mounted the fresh water by-pass valve close to the access hole for the water heater by-pass. I had to purchase two barbed fittings to adapt from the inlet hose to the threaded by-pass valve, and didn't use some of the fittings that came with the kit.

Here is a view of the valve, looking from the front of the sofa, with the front panel removed.










Now I can pull the hose through the access hole to the anti-freeze jug, and turn the valve, just by lifting the front of the jack-knife sofa.










As a footnote, I also blew compressed air through the black tank flusher and heard quite a bit of water clear out. I wonder how often that is overlooked in the winterizing process, and if it would do any damage?

Doug


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## jake's outback

Doug, thanks for that last bit of the black tank flusher. I had taken mine back to camping in style and found the water pump is pooched. I will call them tomorrow and remind them of the black tank flusher. Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?
They offer a one day pull through winterize for $50. The flusher would be one thing you would probably never really find out it doesn't really work anymore or was damaged .


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## duggy

jake said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.


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## rdvholtwood

Nice Job









I have the same kit and I installed it at the pump. I did take the whole couch out and modified the hole opening such that its hinged.


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## clarkely

duggy said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.
[/quote]

I always use Blow out, quick easy and inexpensive..... especially if you want to do it before/after winter trips. Make sure you drain your low point drains. I always use about a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze dumped down drains to fill P traps and then a little in water tank........


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## rdvholtwood

duggy said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.
[/quote]

I use both - blowout and then pump antifreeze throughout. I found that when I pump the antifreeze through the lines, I always get some more water pushed out even when I use the blow-out method. This way I know its all out!


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## clarkely

rdvholtwood said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.
[/quote]

I use both - blowout and then pump antifreeze throughout. I found that when I pump the antifreeze through the lines, I always get some more water pushed out even when I use the blow-out method. This way I know its all out!
[/quote]

When you blow out and do one line at a time you won't need to pump, you also need to do it with low point drains open.........if not you can actually cause a suction and pull up what was left in them. To me its not a matter of spending a couple bucks on antifreeze, its more about time in doing the winterization and in opening back up...........especially if you are doing any cold weather camping when you may winterize and de-winterize several times.

I have been doing it that way for over 8 years....


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## duggy

clarkely said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.
[/quote]

I use both - blowout and then pump antifreeze throughout. I found that when I pump the antifreeze through the lines, I always get some more water pushed out even when I use the blow-out method. This way I know its all out!
[/quote]

When you blow out and do one line at a time you won't need to pump, you also need to do it with low point drains open.........if not you can actually cause a suction and pull up what was left in them. To me its not a matter of spending a couple bucks on antifreeze, its more about time in doing the winterization and in opening back up...........especially if you are doing any cold weather camping when you may winterize and de-winterize several times.

I have been doing it that way for over 8 years....
[/quote]

I do both like Rick, but I hear where you're coming from, Clarkely. We're thinking of camping early next April. We'll have to decide whether to use the water system in the trailer, or hike to the washrooms all weekend. At that time of year I might just blow out the lines and leave it at that.


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## rdvholtwood

duggy said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.
[/quote]

I use both - blowout and then pump antifreeze throughout. I found that when I pump the antifreeze through the lines, I always get some more water pushed out even when I use the blow-out method. This way I know its all out!
[/quote]

When you blow out and do one line at a time you won't need to pump, you also need to do it with low point drains open.........if not you can actually cause a suction and pull up what was left in them. To me its not a matter of spending a couple bucks on antifreeze, its more about time in doing the winterization and in opening back up...........especially if you are doing any cold weather camping when you may winterize and de-winterize several times.

I have been doing it that way for over 8 years....
[/quote]

I do both like Rick, but I hear where you're coming from, Clarkely. We're thinking of camping early next April. We'll have to decide whether to use the water system in the trailer, or hike to the washrooms all weekend. At that time of year I might just blow out the lines and leave it at that.
[/quote]

Actually Doug, its all not that bad to clean out the antifreeze quickly. As I mentioned earlier, I blew out the lines, one at a time, and still had clear water coming out when I pushed the antifreeze through. I'd rather have the piece of mind knowing that theres no water in the system and take the extra time clearing out the antifreeze.

Either way, its all good!


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## duggy

rdvholtwood said:


> Did you pump anti freeze in it or just blow it out with air?


I just used my blow-out plug and the compressor. I couldn't think of any way to add anti-freeze. I'm confident it's good.
[/quote]

I use both - blowout and then pump antifreeze throughout. I found that when I pump the antifreeze through the lines, I always get some more water pushed out even when I use the blow-out method. This way I know its all out!
[/quote]

When you blow out and do one line at a time you won't need to pump, you also need to do it with low point drains open.........if not you can actually cause a suction and pull up what was left in them. To me its not a matter of spending a couple bucks on antifreeze, its more about time in doing the winterization and in opening back up...........especially if you are doing any cold weather camping when you may winterize and de-winterize several times.

I have been doing it that way for over 8 years....
[/quote]

I do both like Rick, but I hear where you're coming from, Clarkely. We're thinking of camping early next April. We'll have to decide whether to use the water system in the trailer, or hike to the washrooms all weekend. At that time of year I might just blow out the lines and leave it at that.
[/quote]

Actually Doug, its all not that bad to clean out the antifreeze quickly. As I mentioned earlier, I blew out the lines, one at a time, and still had clear water coming out when I pushed the antifreeze through. I'd rather have the piece of mind knowing that theres no water in the system and take the extra time clearing out the antifreeze.

Either way, its all good!
[/quote]

I agree with you for the winter hibernation. I'm just considering blow-out only, if we camp in April and are concerned about the odd night that drops below freezing.


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## topjudge

duggy said:


> I just installed a winterizing by-pass valve in our 250 RS. The kit comes with all the pieces to attach the valve to the inlet side of the water pump. On our trailer, installing the kit there would have required removing the jack knife sofa to get access. It also would have been very difficult to reach the valve each time I winterized the trailer. I considered moving the pump closer to the front of the sofa, but that looked like a job in itself. Instead, I cut into the intake line from the fresh water tank, and mounted the fresh water by-pass valve close to the access hole for the water heater by-pass. I had to purchase two barbed fittings to adapt from the inlet hose to the threaded by-pass valve, and didn't use some of the fittings that came with the kit.
> 
> Here is a view of the valve, looking from the front of the sofa, with the front panel removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pull the hose through the access hole to the anti-freeze jug, and turn the valve, just by lifting the front of the jack-knife sofa.
> 
> Doug,
> 
> Where did you buy the proper barbed fittings?
> 
> Alan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a footnote, I also blew compressed air through the black tank flusher and heard quite a bit of water clear out. I wonder how often that is overlooked in the winterizing process, and if it would do any damage?
> 
> Doug


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## Stance

duggy said:


> ...As a footnote, I also blew compressed air through the black tank flusher and heard quite a bit of water clear out. I wonder how often that is overlooked in the winterizing process, and if it would do any damage?
> 
> Doug


I blow out my lines only and so do my dad and brother (both have motorhomes). I do run some antifreeze through the pump though - enough to make sure no water is in the pump itself. We have never had a problem.

My OB is the first black water rinse any of us had and I forgot to blow it out last year. I didn't find any damage. So, I must have either got lucky or the water drains slowly out of it over time.


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## Jefrei

rdvholtwood said:


> Nice Job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same kit and I installed it at the pump. I did take the whole couch out and modified the hole opening such that its hinged.


Just out of curiosity, Is the front part of the couch that covers access to the hot water tank nailed on or screwed on. I always ran anti-freeze on my last trailer but had a hell of a time trying to get access to my pump. I ended up blowing out my lines.
I will definately look at installing one of these.


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## Jefrei

duggy said:


> I just installed a winterizing by-pass valve in our 250 RS. The kit comes with all the pieces to attach the valve to the inlet side of the water pump. On our trailer, installing the kit there would have required removing the jack knife sofa to get access. It also would have been very difficult to reach the valve each time I winterized the trailer. I considered moving the pump closer to the front of the sofa, but that looked like a job in itself. Instead, I cut into the intake line from the fresh water tank, and mounted the fresh water by-pass valve close to the access hole for the water heater by-pass. I had to purchase two barbed fittings to adapt from the inlet hose to the threaded by-pass valve, and didn't use some of the fittings that came with the kit.
> 
> Here is a view of the valve, looking from the front of the sofa, with the front panel removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pull the hose through the access hole to the anti-freeze jug, and turn the valve, just by lifting the front of the jack-knife sofa.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a footnote, I also blew compressed air through the black tank flusher and heard quite a bit of water clear out. I wonder how often that is overlooked in the winterizing process, and if it would do any damage?
> 
> Doug


I will let you know next spring (fingers crossed). After reading this article I realized I forgot to blow out the black tank flusher. We already have had a few weeks of overnight freezing so it probably is too late now.


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## duggy

Jefrei said:


> Nice Job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same kit and I installed it at the pump. I did take the whole couch out and modified the hole opening such that its hinged.


Just out of curiosity, Is the front part of the couch that covers access to the hot water tank nailed on or screwed on. I always ran anti-freeze on my last trailer but had a hell of a time trying to get access to my pump. I ended up blowing out my lines.
I will definately look at installing one of these.
[/quote]

The front of the couch is screwed on. There are four or five screws under fabric covered caps that snap on like a dome.


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## duggy

topjudge said:


> Doug,
> 
> Where did you buy the proper barbed fittings?
> 
> Alan


I bought them at a hardware store. The first ones I tried were close, but leaked a little. The second attempt was successful.


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## hoodscoop

Jefrei said:


> I just installed a winterizing by-pass valve in our 250 RS. The kit comes with all the pieces to attach the valve to the inlet side of the water pump. On our trailer, installing the kit there would have required removing the jack knife sofa to get access. It also would have been very difficult to reach the valve each time I winterized the trailer. I considered moving the pump closer to the front of the sofa, but that looked like a job in itself. Instead, I cut into the intake line from the fresh water tank, and mounted the fresh water by-pass valve close to the access hole for the water heater by-pass. I had to purchase two barbed fittings to adapt from the inlet hose to the threaded by-pass valve, and didn't use some of the fittings that came with the kit.
> 
> Here is a view of the valve, looking from the front of the sofa, with the front panel removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can pull the hose through the access hole to the anti-freeze jug, and turn the valve, just by lifting the front of the jack-knife sofa.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a footnote, I also blew compressed air through the black tank flusher and heard quite a bit of water clear out. I wonder how often that is overlooked in the winterizing process, and if it would do any damage?
> 
> Doug


I will let you know next spring (fingers crossed). After reading this article I realized I forgot to blow out the black tank flusher. We already have had a few weeks of overnight freezing so it probably is too late now.
[/quote]

Been following this post. Isn't that "white" valve at the bottom center of the top picture the shut-off valve for the water heater?


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## CamperAndy

hoodscoop said:


> Been following this post. Isn't that "white" valve at the bottom center of the top picture the shut-off valve for the water heater?


Yes it is. It also diverts the water flow to bypass the water heater.


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## spidey

duggy said:


> I just installed a winterizing by-pass valve in our 250 RS. The kit comes with all the pieces to attach the valve to the inlet side of the water pump. On our trailer, installing the kit there would have required removing the jack knife sofa to get access. It also would have been very difficult to reach the valve each time I winterized the trailer. I considered moving the pump closer to the front of the sofa, but that looked like a job in itself. Instead, I cut into the intake line from the fresh water tank, and mounted the fresh water by-pass valve close to the access hole for the water heater by-pass. I had to purchase two barbed fittings to adapt from the inlet hose to the threaded by-pass valve, and didn't use some of the fittings that came with the kit.
> 
> Here is a view of the valve, looking from the front of the sofa, with the front panel removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As a footnote, I also blew compressed air through the black tank flusher and heard quite a bit of water clear out. I wonder how often that is overlooked in the winterizing process, and if it would do any damage?


I bought the Camco kit last night but didnt have to time to install it yet. With the nights coming so fast not a lot of daylight after work.

I agree even if you can get the brass fitting directly on the pump, the turning of the valve would be a pain, unless a person did something wih the board with the porthole so you could remove it completely.

Im thinking of doing what you did, is the hose that comes from the fresh water tank the one you cut? Also, would small ring clamps work as well to hold the hose on. The kind that you screw to make them tighter. Did the brass fittings just slide into the hose easily, or were they tight to fit.

I had to fittings I could of bought, a plastic one or the Camco one that brass and with the hose for the same price. Im thinking the brass would last longer and not worry about breaking the handle as much

Sorry for the maybe obvious questions, I just want to make sure this is done right


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## spidey

So I finally installed this on the weekend. Was going to do as above and cut into the line, but then had another idea. I removed the couch instead and the top board and installed it directly on the pump. I wanted to get in their anyway just to see what was what so I knew how everything was setup for future troubleshooting, etc.

I had an extra lenght of clear tubing I added to the original length of by pass hose so I can now just grab the hose. Did a test to see if I can reach the bypass valve through the port hole, and I could (just barely) the way the port hole is setup. So all I did was make the port hole "hole" larger ( and re-sanded the opening to make it like original smooth). Now I can reach my the bypass valve no problem without taking the kick board off, etc.

I could see that over the years becoming an issue of taking it out and putting it back on.

Now all I do it reach in and turn the valve each season. I left the hose hooked up, didnt put the cap back on and now can get both bypas valves easily


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## Lmbevard

I just finished winterizing my camper but did run into a couple of problems. A couple of years ago I had to replace the backflow preventer at the the top of hot water heater. Usually I blow out the water and then pump the pink stuff in. It takes less than 2 gallons to get everything done but this time I pumped the first gallon before getting anything out and just got some pink out of one of the faucets. seems that most of the antifreeze went into the empty and opened hot water heater. Only other thought might be that the water heater bypass valve is bad. Think I'll check it out next spring along with all the other work I need to do to get the beast ready for another year.


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## sulvester10

duggy said:


> Nice Job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same kit and I installed it at the pump. I did take the whole couch out and modified the hole opening such that its hinged.


Just out of curiosity, Is the front part of the couch that covers access to the hot water tank nailed on or screwed on. I always ran anti-freeze on my last trailer but had a hell of a time trying to get access to my pump. I ended up blowing out my lines.
I will definately look at installing one of these.
[/quote]

The front of the couch is screwed on. There are four or five screws under fabric covered caps that snap on like a dome.
[/quote]

i put a set or snap buttons on the back side of the panel for easy removal to access both the water pump and extra storage under the couch.


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## Jefrei

duggy said:


> Nice Job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the same kit and I installed it at the pump. I did take the whole couch out and modified the hole opening such that its hinged.


Just out of curiosity, Is the front part of the couch that covers access to the hot water tank nailed on or screwed on. I always ran anti-freeze on my last trailer but had a hell of a time trying to get access to my pump. I ended up blowing out my lines.
I will definately look at installing one of these.
[/quote]

The front of the couch is screwed on. There are four or five screws under fabric covered caps that snap on like a dome.
[/quote]

Thanks! BTW my black tank flusher does not seem to operate like it did when It was new. Seems the water did not drain as I had hoped. Now to figue out how to repair it.


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