# Battery Disconnect - Blue Sea 9002e



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Anyone install a Blue Sea Systems 9002e battery disconnect switch? Just curious of the wires you needed to purchase and how you connected/routed the wires.

Pictures would be GREAT!!!


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

I may be able to get you pictures tomorrow, but all you really need is a 4ft piece of 6ga wire and some 6ga eyelet terminals. Then connect the TT ground wire to the 'input' on the switch (yours may be labeled differently), and the new piece of 6ga wire from the '#1' on the switch to the negative terminal on the battery that would normally be connected to the TT (the other battery will be connected to the positive side of the TT).

Clear as mud? If you look and the picture in my gallery you can easily see the switch with two white wires coming from it. The switch is installed in between the the TT and battery on the negative side. When you get two more 6v batteries in the future it will be a little different, but for now this will work fine.

Hope this helps.


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

14 gauge is really too small. It is spec'ed for a max load current of only 15A. 10 gauge or larger would be better.

Bob


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

14 gauge is too small!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!should be like #6 or bigger


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

W4DRR said:


> 14 gauge is really too small. It is spec'ed for a max load current of only 15A. 10 gauge or larger would be better.
> 
> Bob


OOOPS!!! You're right. I just looked at the spool of wire and it is 6ga.

I will edit my original post so that there is no confusion.


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

Airboss said:


> 14 gauge is really too small. It is spec'ed for a max load current of only 15A. 10 gauge or larger would be better.
> 
> Bob


OOOPS!!! You're right. I just looked at the spool of wire and it is 6ga.

I will edit my original post so that there is no confusion.
[/quote]

6 gauge should do the trick....and then some. 65A load current, with a fusing current of 668A.
Without actually running out and looking, I believe the stock battery cables are either 6 or 8.

Bob


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Great info...thanks guys!!!









The online documentation for this switch says to connect to the positive cable....not the negative.

Thoughts?


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Great info...thanks guys!!!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I know people debate this. My switch was factory installed and is the positive cable. That also means you can install it anywhere between the battery and the converter box (Mine is in a storage compartment which means it's locked up).


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

I think the general concensus here is to use the negative side because it would reduce the chance of a spark? Anyway, I really don't think that would matter with a marine grade switch.

Besides, I can think of at least one advantage to putting the switch on the positive side. Since you have a switch designed for two systems, you can use the #2 position for your tongue jack. That way, you can switch off the power to the tongue jack to prevent 'accidental' use.

So...

Pos lead from battery to 'input' on switch
#1 position on switch to positive lead on TT
#2 position on switch to positive lead on tongue jack

Whadaya think?


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Airboss said:


> I think the general concensus here is to use the negative side because it would reduce the chance of a spark? Anyway, I really don't think that would matter with a marine grade switch.
> 
> Besides, I can think of at least one advantage to putting the switch on the positive side. Since you have a switch designed for two systems, you can use the #2 position for your tongue jack. That way, you can switch off the power to the tongue jack to prevent 'accidental' use.
> 
> ...


I like it! I think I would want just trailer on #1 and then trailer and jack on #2. This way I don't kill the power to the trailer while I'm hooking up. DW might get mad at me if things go dark while I'm loading the trailer and she is doing something inside.

I also like the idea of putting in behind a locked door (thinking pass-through) so it can't be accessed by others.


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

Oregon_Camper said:


> I like it! I think I would want just trailer on #1 and then trailer and jack on #2. This way I don't kill the power to the trailer while I'm hooking up. DW might get mad at me if things go dark while I'm loading the trailer and she is doing something inside.
> 
> I also like the idea of putting in behind a locked door (thinking pass-through) so it can't be accessed by others.


Hmmm...not sure I quite understand. Couldn't you accomplish that by putting the switch in the '1+2' position? That way you could still keep them seperate.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Airboss said:


> I like it! I think I would want just trailer on #1 and then trailer and jack on #2. This way I don't kill the power to the trailer while I'm hooking up. DW might get mad at me if things go dark while I'm loading the trailer and she is doing something inside.
> 
> I also like the idea of putting in behind a locked door (thinking pass-through) so it can't be accessed by others.


Hmmm...not sure I quite understand. Couldn't you accomplish that by putting the switch in the '1+2' position? That way you could still keep them seperate.
[/quote]

See....that is EXACTLY why I ask first. Of course I can, but I didn't think of it. Dooh!!


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

Let me know how the install goes. I'm sure you'll be pleased with that switch.


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## zrxfishing (Sep 12, 2007)

I have that exact switch wired with 4 gauge on the postive side as it suggests and I have no problems. It is a sealed switch so sparks should not be an issue. If I remember correctly the paperwork tells you that when switching between batt #1 and batt #2 that you should not go through the off position. As long as you go through the 1 & 2 position you will never loose power to the camper.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

zrxfishing said:


> I have that exact switch wired with 4 gauge on the postive side as it suggests and I have no problems. It is a sealed switch so sparks should not be an issue. If I remember correctly the paperwork tells you that when switching between batt #1 and batt #2 that you should not go through the off position. As long as you go through the 1 & 2 position you will never loose power to the camper.


Perfect....can't wait for the switch to arrive.


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## Oregonian (Aug 14, 2008)

I have this exact same switch installed on my 21RS. I purchased mine at Joes before they went belly-up. It's designed for marine use so it's very resistant to weather and moisture. I also like it because the "knob" is removable so you do not have to worry about someone messing with it.

Enjoy!


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## SouthRider (May 29, 2009)

I also installed that switch. I ended up screwing it right on the exterior of the plastic battery box (after securing the box to the tongue with a couple sheet metal screws).

This way I only needed a one foot length of #6 wire, and didn't have to lengthen the existing hot wire. I read all the posts here & ended up using the positive wire, but don't think there is really any difference.

The switch knob IS removable, but unfortunately only when in the OFF position. Otherwise it is a nice unit & relatively weather resistant.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

thanks for the input...

I think they shipped my switch via the Pony Express....as it is STILL not here.


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## mmonti (Jun 27, 2007)

I used this exact same switch, was an easy install. I only used 1 extra cable, cant remember the length. I used a simpson galvanized "L" shaped tie from home depot and mounted it to the frame near the battery boxes, just drilled the tie so the switch could mount to it. easy disconnect and reconnect without taking the propane cover off.


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