# Tire Choices



## dkinkela (Mar 14, 2009)

I'm making my first tire purchase for my Outback. I'm not familar with the brand names and they all seem to be made overseas. I'm leaning towards Greenball or Dynatrail. I'm also leaning towards radials over bias.

Any suggestions on brand and type would be appreciated.


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## Joonbee (Jan 18, 2008)

I bought a set a Galaxy Road Rider ST's from Vulcantire.com. Very inexpensive and I got them in a day. Put a few trips on them last year and can't complain. They rode and handle well. Can't speak of their wear or longevity yet, but for the price. I would be happy wih a couple seasons worth of use. Think it was arounr $250 for 4 shipped to my garage door.

Jim


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## mmblantz (Jul 1, 2007)

Don't get cheap on your Outback tires. Do your research. Do a search on this site for old posts and PM the members to see if the tires they bought held up. Get on the different manufacturers websites and check the load ratings of their tires. I did and am going with a maxxis load range E. Overkill for my trailer but I liked the idea of 3 tires carrying the weight of the Outback if one blows. Saving 20-30 dollars a tire is not worth being stuck on the road changing a tire. ----Mike


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## Sweathog62 (Jul 28, 2005)

Try Sam's Club and go with the Goodyear Trailer tires....It would be nice to get the use of nation wide service if needed.

Good luck.


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## nynethead (Sep 23, 2005)

we just had a big conversation on this topic.

I purchased carlile radials for my sob laredo which are radials and they seem to be very good.

Made in america and have a 2 year warranty. I went from a load range D to E.


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

I've had very good performance from Maxxis and Towmaster. Goodyear may be good but one of them I had blew with only 500 miles on it although I did find out it was already 5 years old. I've read some poor reviews of Carlisle but those may have been the same age problem I ran into with an otherwise good tire.

Whatever you get *make sure you check the tires manufacture date* and don't get anything more than a year old since tires only last 4 to 5 years under the best conditions. The manufacture date is the last 4 digits of the DOT serial number and is given as the week and year when the tire was made. I don't know if the location of manufacture is something I would get too hung up on since I've had good and bad tires from a variety of places.


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## Joonbee (Jan 18, 2008)

mmblantz said:


> Don't get cheap on your Outback tires. Do your research. Do a search on this site for old posts and PM the members to see if the tires they bought held up. Get on the different manufacturers websites and check the load ratings of their tires. I did and am going with a maxxis load range E. Overkill for my trailer but I liked the idea of 3 tires carrying the weight of the Outback if one blows. Saving 20-30 dollars a tire is not worth being stuck on the road changing a tire. ----Mike


Maybe I stated this incorrectly above.

I bought a set a Galaxy Road Rider ST's from Vulcantire.com. Very inexpensive and I got them in a day.

I bought, what I believed to be a good set of tires from a place that didn't cost me a lot of money. Thus inexpensive tires, not cheap or good tires at a great price. I have also bought 3 sets of passenger tires from them successfully and a friend of mine has a set on his 11k toyhauler with no complaints to date. I agree 150% that you should not skimp on things like tires. They are way to important to me and my families safety, but I am not going to overpay to feel better. Someone above spoke of Carlisle's and they carry them also, in many sizes and load ranges.

I believe I read in another post that the E rated tires will carry more, but don't like the turning we do with our trailers. I just went with the same size and load rating that came on the trailer.

Good luck and bottom line is you need to buy what will give you the warm fuzzies when towing.

My humble .02

Jim


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## Compulynx (Oct 15, 2008)

+1 on checking the mfg date. Age is the biggest factor in tire failures. No matter what brand you decide on.

Even the best start dying after 5 or 6 years. Personally, when my tires get 4 years old, I just replace them all.

As for wear, unless you STAY on the road, I have rarely seen a set of trailer tires actually wear out. (Barring alignment problems.) They just start separating, cracking, or blowing out.

C


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## mmblantz (Jul 1, 2007)

Joonbee said:


> Don't get cheap on your Outback tires. Do your research. Do a search on this site for old posts and PM the members to see if the tires they bought held up. Get on the different manufacturers websites and check the load ratings of their tires. I did and am going with a maxxis load range E. Overkill for my trailer but I liked the idea of 3 tires carrying the weight of the Outback if one blows. Saving 20-30 dollars a tire is not worth being stuck on the road changing a tire. ----Mike


Maybe I stated this incorrectly above.

I bought a set a Galaxy Road Rider ST's from Vulcantire.com. Very inexpensive and I got them in a day.

I bought, what I believed to be a good set of tires from a place that didn't cost me a lot of money. Thus inexpensive tires, not cheap or good tires at a great price. I have also bought 3 sets of passenger tires from them successfully and a friend of mine has a set on his 11k toyhauler with no complaints to date. I agree 150% that you should not skimp on things like tires. They are way to important to me and my families safety, but I am not going to overpay to feel better. Someone above spoke of Carlisle's and they carry them also, in many sizes and load ranges.

I believe I read in another post that the E rated tires will carry more, but don't like the turning we do with our trailers. I just went with the same size and load rating that came on the trailer.

Good luck and bottom line is you need to buy what will give you the warm fuzzies when towing.

My humble .02

Jim
[/quote]

I was not comenting on your post.....only giving my giving my opinion to orriginal poster. ---Mike


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

Well I dont cheap out on the tires at all, I have been with a group of friends who all felt that their tires were good enough for the trip up north. Well lets jut put it this way, They did not even make it 50 miles from home. To top that off the tires blew on the George Washington Bridge. I told them that they were on their own there, and kept going. I was having nothing to do with stopping on the bridge to change a tire. I go 2 years maximum on my tires before I change them out. But I am also dragging the trailer out on the beach and when the tires are let down to 12 psi on a regular basis, it does a number on them anyway. When I have to replace the tires on my Outback (came with 14" Mission Radials) I will be going to LT tires. I am leaning towards a set of Dunlop Radial Rovers which are the same load range C that came with the trailer and hold up very well on my work trucks. They are a semi-off road tire, and have been getting 50-60,000 miles out of them at around $80 a piece. I love the BFGoodrich All terrains that are on my truck, but that is an expensive tire, and a bit aggressive for the trailer.


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

Based on what I've read here and elsewhere I went with the Maxxis radials. They seem to be pretty popular since they were out of stock when I ordered them, but have since been shipped and are supposed to be here tomorrow.

It'll be interesting to see what the manufacture date is since they were just received by the tire dealer. I would be surprised if they were more than a few months old.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

I went around and around and then just got the Maxxis 225/75R-15 Load Range E. I have noticed that they ride smoother, less bounce than my old load range D bias. only about 75 miles on them now.


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## russlg (Jul 21, 2008)

I work for a Ford dealer so I bought four Goodyear Marathon's. They are mid '08's and I won't know how good they are till there are on the trailer. Just brought the Outback home yesterday. It has the original Nanco's on it and I was expecting a blowout on the way home (2 hour ride), that is how cracked the sidewalls were. Alas I made it but it is getting the 4 tires and a bearing repack before I tow it again.


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## Dadof4 (Mar 30, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> I went around and around and then just got the Maxxis 225/75R-15 Load Range E. I have noticed that they ride smoother, less bounce than my old load range D bias. only about 75 miles on them now.


X2

I did the research and went with the Maxxis. So far so good.

... and Jimmie took second place today Sayonara!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

russlg said:


> I work for a Ford dealer so I bought four Goodyear Marathon's. They are mid '08's and I won't know how good they are till there are on the trailer. Just brought the Outback home yesterday. It has the original Nanco's on it and I was expecting a blowout on the way home (2 hour ride), that is how cracked the sidewalls were. *Alas I made it but it is getting the 4 tires *and a bearing repack before I tow it again.


Get 5 so the spare matches. Even with the best tire you have to worry about road hazards and curbs that jump under the tire whe you take a corner too tight..


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## outbackmac (Feb 1, 2005)

These maxxis are they a trailer tire or a passenger tire with a load range of E


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

outbackmac said:


> These maxxis are they a trailer tire or a passenger tire with a load range of E


Trailer tire. 
Maxxis Link


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## dkinkela (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks for all the feedback - Lot's of things to learn as a first time owner!


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## malibutay (Sep 5, 2007)

While cruising up the ALCAN my tires started wearing out on the insides. I was loaded down pretty good since we were moving to Alaska. I stopped at a ittle tire dealer in Dawsons creek and they sold me Goodyear HMG 2020's that are D rated at. They are supposedly what Uhaul uses and are very dependable. They did great for me on my trip and we went through every type of terrain known to man.


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

Well I'm officially surprised.

Received the Maxxis yesterday, and they all have a date code of 5405, all 5 of them.

Should I return them (major PITA) or just roll with them?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

FZ1dave said:


> Well I'm officially surprised.
> 
> Received the Maxxis yesterday, and they all have a date code of 5405, all 5 of them.
> 
> Should I return them (major PITA) or just roll with them?


You may want to look for more numbers. The code should show the week and year the tire was made, so the first two digits should be between 01 and 52.


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## outbackmac (Feb 1, 2005)

how do you read these numbers 5405 or what ever


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

outbackmac said:


> how do you read these numbers 5405 or what ever


On a four digit code the first two are the week the tire was pressed and the last two are the year. On a 3 digit code the first two are the week and the last one is the year. In 2000 they went from the 3 digit to the 4 digit code.


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

Another vote for Maxxis Radials. They ride better than the Chinese Milestars the Outback came with. I feel much more comfortable and safe towing with them.

-CC


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

FZ1dave said:


> Well I'm officially surprised.
> 
> Received the Maxxis yesterday, and they all have a date code of 5405, all 5 of them.
> 
> Should I return them (major PITA) or just roll with them?


Definitely recheck the numbers as 54 doesn't make sense, it's the last four of the DOT serial number. Also I think it's very unlikely that all 5 of them would be the same, especially if they really are old.


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## Jacko (Feb 14, 2005)

My Wife and I have traveled the US with our 05 Outback, and Maxxis is the wat to go. Anything is better than Nanco


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

MJRey said:


> Definitely recheck the numbers as 54 doesn't make sense, it's the last four of the DOT serial number. Also I think it's very unlikely that all 5 of them would be the same, especially if they really are old.


I'm pretty sure I'm reading the code correctly, though I would love to be wrong.

Here's a couple photos.

The first pic is the entire code string and the second is what I believe to be the 54th week of '05... or would it be the 40th week of '07 (if the numbers at the left of the second pic are the actual code)? You tell me...


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I would think it is the 4 digit code to the left of the number you are looking at. Week 40 of 2007.

That said the date should be stamped in not molded on so the numbers should be pressed in like the 5405 numbers are. The problems is there is not 54 weeks in the year. So I guess it is time to call them and ask the manufacture for clarification.

Just curious what is stamped on the other side? The date code is only required to be on one side of the tire.


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> I would think it is the 4 digit code to the left of the number you are looking at. Week 40 of 2007.


I would think so too.



> The problems is there is not 54 weeks in the year. So I guess it is time to call them and ask the manufacture for clarification.


Exactly. I sent them an e-mail yesterday.



> Just curious what is stamped on the other side? The date code is only required to be on one side of the tire.


Nothing remotely like what is in the photos, just size, pressure recommendation etc.


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

Your tires were built in the 40th week of 2007. My Maxxis radials have a marking just like yours and that is how I read them. Happy towing! You are gonna love those tires. I noticed an immdiate difference.

-CC


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

collinsfam_tx said:


> Your tires were built in the 40th week of 2007. My Maxxis radials have a marking just like yours and that is how I read them. Happy towing! You are gonna love those tires. I noticed an immdiate difference.
> 
> -CC


Whew! Thanks for the input.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> That said the date should be stamped in not molded on so the numbers should be pressed in like the 5405 numbers are. The problems is there is not 54 weeks in the year. So I guess it is time to call them and ask the manufacture for clarification.


All those numbers are molded in on removeable plates (notice the oval ring around the numbers) its just that some are plates that create a raised number and other creat a impression number but both are molded in. you cant cleanly stamp in to rubber after its molded.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> That said the date should be stamped in not molded on so the numbers should be pressed in like the 5405 numbers are. The problems is there is not 54 weeks in the year. So I guess it is time to call them and ask the manufacture for clarification.


All those numbers are molded in on removeable plates (notice the oval ring around the numbers) its just that some are plates that create a raised number and other creat a impression number but both are molded in. you cant cleanly stamp in to rubber after its molded.
[/quote]
x2, they are inserts in the mold. Sometimes with inserts like this you can even see an impression of the screw heads that hold the insert in the mold. Every week they change out those inserts.


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

I guess it's not necessarily the last four digits like I thought.


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> All those numbers are molded in on removeable plates (notice the oval ring around the numbers) its just that some are plates that create a raised number and other creat a impression number but both are molded in. you cant cleanly stamp in to rubber after its molded.


So 4007 is the code?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Nathan said:


> That said the date should be stamped in not molded on so the numbers should be pressed in like the 5405 numbers are. The problems is there is not 54 weeks in the year. So I guess it is time to call them and ask the manufacture for clarification.


All those numbers are molded in on removeable plates (notice the oval ring around the numbers) its just that some are plates that create a raised number and other creat a impression number but both are molded in. you cant cleanly stamp in to rubber after its molded.
[/quote]
x2, they are inserts in the mold. Sometimes with inserts like this you can even see an impression of the screw heads that hold the insert in the mold. Every week they change out those inserts.
[/quote]

I guess I was not clear, the DOT reg says the *date *numbers should be molded/stamped into the sidewall, with recessed numbers. Not stamped/molded with raised numbers. I suspect this is so they can not be rubbed off or removed as easily from use.

I think this manufacture may not be following the letter of the law so it causes ambiguity. Had the last 6 digit number been 545205 no one would have questioned the number and said it was week 52 of 05. As again the DOT regs say the date should be the last digits in the string of DOT numbers. The numbers should include the tire manufacture identification, press and batch identification and press date.

Some other issues to note that cause confusion. The DOT code should be 10 to 12 characters, these tires have 13 digits. They should start with the manufacture ID and end with the press date.

All of this said I still think the 4007 is the date part of the code as the manufacture is just not following the rules but they should be called to verify that that is the case.


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> The code should show the week and year the tire was made, so the first two digits should be between 01 and 52.


One interesting thing came to mind in this thread ... not all years have 52 weeks. Sort of.

(1) 49 CFR part 574, the part of the "Code of Federal Regulations" that deals with tire dating says:

"The first two symbols must identify the week of the year by using "01" for the first full calendar week in each year, "02" for the second full calendar week, and so on. The calendar week runs from Sunday through the following Saturday. The final week of each year may include not more than 6 days of the following year. The third and fourth symbols must identify the year. "

(2) In industry there is the concept of a "work week". Different industries and different companies use slightly different "work weeks" but the concept is that every week has a work-week number, starting somewhere around the boundary between December and January and ending at the other end of the year in December and January (there is an ISO standard on this; the US deviates from this by starting weeks on Sunday). So the first work-week of a year can start on a day from the previous year. The last work-week of a year can spill over into the following year.

The week field of the DOT code is essentially a work-week.

(3) Let's take the DOT example whereby "week one" is defined as the first full calendar week. In 2006 January 1st fell on a Sunday, making this "week one". In December week 52 is Sunday the 24th through Saturday the 30th. Surprisingly there is a 53rd week, containing Sunday December 31st through Saturday January 6th. This is in compliance with the DOT definition for the last week, which states _"The final week of each year may include not more than 6 days of the following year."_

But no, you say. Dec 31st-Jan6th is actually the first week of 2007. Not so. Recall that the DOT year definition says _"using "01" for the first full calendar week in each year". _The first "full" calendar year in 2007 is Sunday Jan 7th through Saturday Jan 14th. Strange but true.

Don't blame the government, blame the Gregorian Calendar.

So, to update CamperAndy's comment:

The code should show the week and year the tire was made, so the first two digits should be between 01 and *53*.

Ed


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

But still can not squeeze 54 weeks in there and if my math is correct and 06 was defined as having 53 weeks, would 05 or 07 have 51?

Thanks for the extra research Ed.


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> would 05 or 07 have 51?


In 2007 the first full week is Jan 7-13 so that is week one by the DOT scheme. That makes Dec 23-29 week 51 and Dec30-Jan5 week 52. Week one of the following year is then Jan 6-12 (the first full week of 2008).

You'd think 2005 would be a bit more interesting because the first is on a Saturday at the end of a week. However, the same rule applies. Week one is the first full week, Jan 2-8. Week 52 is Dec 25-31.

I don't believe it is possible to have 51. Does a leap year make it possible to have 54? Let's look at at recent leap year that started on a Sunday, 1984. In this year week one was Jan 1-Jan7. Week 52 was Dec 23-29. Week 53 was Dec 30-Jan5.

There is, I'm sure, a mathematical proof for all this. I didn't have time to explore this.

Ed


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## CRZ (Feb 3, 2009)

Is it normal to have the factory tires crack bad on the sidewalls for being a year old? Because mine have to the point I have to get new tires before I trust the tralier on the road. Thanks for the info on the maxxis tires.


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## FZ1dave (Jul 10, 2007)

CRZ said:


> Is it normal to have the factory tires crack bad on the sidewalls for being a year old? Because mine have to the point I have to get new tires before I trust the tralier on the road. Thanks for the info on the maxxis tires.


Well it _shouldn't_ be normal but it seems to be normal for the crap tires that come stock on these trailers.

I'll be mounting my Maxxis today.


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## boatwheels (Apr 15, 2009)

dkinkela said:


> I'm making my first tire purchase for my Outback. I'm not familar with the brand names and they all seem to be made overseas. I'm leaning towards Greenball or Dynatrail. I'm also leaning towards radials over bias.
> 
> Any suggestions on brand and type would be appreciated.


The majority of Trailer Tires these days are made in China even the Goodyear tires are made there which is known to be a US brand. There are many brands out there and many of them are made in the same plant just with a different name stamped on the outside.
There were also a few comments about the age of the tire. I would say that as long as the tire isn't more than a couple years old there probably won't be any problem if it was stored in a warehouse some where and not in the elements. Since the tires are made over seas it will most likely take 3 months just for them to get to the states.
I believe the main cause of blowouts are either caused from heat with a combination of being overloaded along with how fast you are going. There are also those that area caused from the tire being weather checked which can happen fairly quickly if your trailer is always parked in the elements.
There were also a few questions about going to a heavier ply tire. This can be a plus and a minus. The plus being if your trailer is over loaded with your current tires then the heavier ply is needed the minus being the more plys the more friction and the hotter the tire can get.
I don't think the brand of the tire makes as much difference as the other factors. I am not saying that there are not brands out there that shouldn't be avoided but that it might not be the biggest factor of having problems.
On really hot days it might pay to stop once in a while just to feel how hot your tires are.
Well I hope this info helps.


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