# 2010 Outback 280Rs Issues..



## Summit151 (Mar 20, 2018)

Hello I finally found the floor plan I wanted on the used market that was within driving distance. I bought a used 2010 280RS but I have some issues I need some help on. First off the rear slide exterior wall does seem to have some delamantion issues. The exterior fibreglass part does look bulged out but when you push on it and feel the plywood behind it. It feels solid. The previous owner did take it in and get it sealed up. Not sure if they replaced anything. Not to sure how water would also get in behind there ? All the seals look in tact. I have also one small part of the slide rails on the inside looks like it pulled down a bit? Curious to what everyone has done to correct this? I have also noticed that some trailers I see on the internet have supports for the long slide on the exterior ? Mine does not have any? I also cant seem to be able to add pictures to this post....


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Is the slide electric or do you have to manually pull it out by hand? If it is electric, there are no exterior supports. If it is manual there should be a pair of support brackets with mounting hardware to match on the back of the trailer.


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## Summit151 (Mar 20, 2018)

It is electric


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## Tourdfox (Oct 4, 2012)

Summit151 said:


> It is electric


If the rear wall if a bit puffy. It's probably just what is called a floating wall. Like the newer 280's. If that is the case not to worry it is totally normal. wires and such run in there. When the bed is in the out position tighten up the ceiling rails. They do tend to loosen a bit from travel ect. Put it on your regular preventitive maintenance list of things to check periodically


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Are the rails just loose or are they bent around the screw heads?


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## Summit151 (Mar 20, 2018)

Ok good to know about the rear slide back wall. It is puffed out a bit but it does have a wave to it like de lamination looks like. And the bed support rails looks like they are bent down around the screws it is only the farthest 2 screws in that look bad. I dont think adding a trip of metal in there would help that issue. Is there any other ways to fix this ? Little stuff like that bothers me ...


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

The track/screw issue is from the slide out bouncing or being too heavily loaded when in stowed position. Go to a hardware store and get the largest fender washers that will fit in the track with holes the appropriate size for the screw heads. Just make sure they aren't so thick that the rollers hit them or the screw head. Remove a few screws away from the end of both tracks, straighten the tracks as best you can and reinstall the screws with the washers. In a perfect world the washers would fit like the "filler" in the diagram but finding that exact size is doubtful. This is a configuration we use building airplanes that helps negate the "end pad bending" of the channel. You should also get some sort of slide out support for when you are towing. Last thing, never load a manual rear slide out with more than 50lbs when it is retracted.


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

It is a question that comes up quite a bit. Do I need a support for the bed slide when it is in the stowed position? This thread may be an answer for you.

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42138&p=480290

Have fun in your Outback.

Leigh


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

I definitely would use one with a manual rear slide.

Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk


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