# Better Way To Secure Battery



## jtbmoore (Apr 29, 2008)

Is their a better way to secure the battery besides the straps. I like to disconnect my batteries after a trip but getting the strap off is a pain in the but some times. Anyone out their with a better idea or some sort of mod.

Thanks


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## Dobimax (Jan 16, 2007)

I just remounted my batteries to fit a truck box...but I still used the straps, they seem to be an effective way to secure and hold the cover on nice and snug.

Can I ask why you disconnect after a trip? My stock batteries are 2 years old and I always have the unit plugged in at home and they are strong as ever? I never have disconnected them. Is there something I am missing?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

You can add an external disconnect switch that way you do not need to take the straps off as often.

As for the question of why disconnect, there are schools of thought that the life of the battery is shortened by staying on the charger. This really depends on the charger, that said the newer Outbacks (05 and newer) have decent 3 stage charger/converters and they can be left connected with little fear of premature battery failure. Just check fluid levels every couple of months and you will be fine.


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## kmsjs (Apr 14, 2008)

Replace the buckle on the straps with a quick connect buckle, like the type used on back packs. These can be purchased at camping stores or some hardware stores.

I did this, and I can get to the batteries in seconds.


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## jtbmoore (Apr 29, 2008)

kmsjs said:


> Replace the buckle on the straps with a quick connect buckle, like the type used on back packs. These can be purchased at camping stores or some hardware stores.
> 
> I did this, and I can get to the batteries in seconds.


Perfect!!!


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

I just recently upgraded to 2 Trojan T-105s and felt that I needed a better way to secure them. The best thing I came up with was 36" wire ties. I put two on each battery and secured them to the frame. They worked perfectly!


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## BenandTina (Jul 13, 2005)

I use those rubber bungee cords. Just wrap them around the whole battery box. I also use a battery disconnect switch so there is no need to open the battery box except to check the water in them.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Perhaps you can find a way to lock them down so they are not easily stolen (I think that is your reason for the quick release strap)


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

I moved my batteries completely. I weld some angle iron underneath the trailer and off to the side. The dual batteries fit perfectly between the trailer frame and the skirt just ahead of the stairs. Batteries are no completely hidden. I needed to purchase longer battery leads...they were purchased from a discount automotive supplier










Thor


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## Dobimax (Jan 16, 2007)

Nice work Thor! Great idea. That's it, I have to buy a welder!


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

When I changed over to 6-volt batteries I could not get the tops on the boxes. So I simply screwed down the box to the frame work, put cork in the bottom and used wood wedges between the battery and the box to hold them tight. I don't worry about the top because of the cover. Been like this for three years and no problems. Kirk


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

I was wondering if putting batteries in boxes or confined spaces was a good idea or not. I was always told that batteries emit hydrogen gas when charging which creates a fire hazard. This is why I decided to simply mount them with wire ties - they will always have plenty of room to 'breathe'. This is a very inexpensive way to secure the batteries and holds them down much better than the factory straps or bungies.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Battery boxes are vented so there is no problem. The storage area under the trailer is wide open. I actually put my batteries in a box in order to keep them protected and clean.

Thor


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Thor said:


> I moved my batteries completely. I weld some angle iron underneath the trailer and off to the side. The dual batteries fit perfectly between the trailer frame and the skirt just ahead of the stairs. Batteries are no completely hidden. I needed to purchase longer battery leads...they were purchased from a discount automotive supplier
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Very nice Thor...when can you start mass production for the less fluent welders in the crowd.


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

I was wondering what to do myself. I _have_ been using the ratcheting type tie downs that have hooks on both ends. You can really get them nice and clamped down. However, even with everything wide-open under the big cover, I was amazed with the corrosion that took place on the ratchet mechanism. In fact it was so bad I couldn't even get it to release! I replaced that one with another than used some battery post spray that is supposed to reduce this type of thing and still they corrode.

I'm thinking of just going back to the basic strap style that won't corrode.

Airboss - I'm curious by what you mean by "wire-ties"?

Nice job Thor, but honestly it seems to me to be a rather awkward place to check the water levels and to hoist them into that spot. I have a pair of Tojan 6 volts and those suckers are heavy! I wouldn't want to wrestle those guys into that space.


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Bungee cords on both 12 volts. And I remove the batteries after every trip and bring them into the cool basement after recharging. Could get stolen in storage as well.

Randy


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

Herbicidal said:


> Airboss - I'm curious by what you mean by "wire-ties"?


Just check out the first picture in my Mods gallery here. I know that it's inconvienent to have to cut them and put on new ones every time you want to remove the battery; but honeslty, nothing else holds them in place like these suckers do. And they're quite cheap, too. The 36" ties fit perfectly.


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

Airboss said:


> Airboss - I'm curious by what you mean by "wire-ties"?


Just check out the first picture in my Mods gallery here. I know that it's inconvienent to have to cut them and put on new ones every time you want to remove the battery; but honeslty, nothing else holds them in place like these suckers do. And they're quite cheap, too. The 36" ties fit perfectly.
[/quote]
Got'cha! Apparently the off-gasing from the battery does not corrode them. Is there a special tool to cinch them down? If I go this route, where do you get them and the tool?

I'm concerned that in the (hopefully) unlikely event of an accident, bungee cords would not hold the batteries in place and off they would go!

Thanks.


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## Paul (May 14, 2008)

Have I got a deal for you!! Just todat I installed a cut-out switch for my battery. It took all of about 15 Min. I went to the local marine store and got a battery switch. Went to the local auto parts store and got a starter cable for the jumper. It is a really easy mod and the switch can be mounted where ever you want. Under the tank cover or outside of it. Cost you about $40.


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## Paul (May 14, 2008)

I forgot to tell you. Look at the PIC I posted.


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## bradnjess (Mar 25, 2007)

Airboss said:


> Airboss - I'm curious by what you mean by "wire-ties"?


Just check out the first picture in my Mods gallery here. I know that it's inconvienent to have to cut them and put on new ones every time you want to remove the battery; but honeslty, nothing else holds them in place like these suckers do. And they're quite cheap, too. The 36" ties fit perfectly.
[/quote]

I like the zip-tie (wire-tie) method. Better than my bungee cord wrapped around the battery several times. 36' zip-ties going on the Home Depot shopping list. Thanks.

Brad


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## jtbmoore (Apr 29, 2008)

Do you guys have your batteries in an enclosure?


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Paul said:


> Have I got a deal for you!! Just todat I installed a cut-out switch for my battery. It took all of about 15 Min. I went to the local marine store and got a battery switch. Went to the local auto parts store and got a starter cable for the jumper. It is a really easy mod and the switch can be mounted where ever you want. Under the tank cover or outside of it. Cost you about $40.


I agree with this solution. I have this on my Outback and love it.


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

Herbicidal said:


> Airboss - I'm curious by what you mean by "wire-ties"?


Just check out the first picture in my Mods gallery here. I know that it's inconvienent to have to cut them and put on new ones every time you want to remove the battery; but honeslty, nothing else holds them in place like these suckers do. And they're quite cheap, too. The 36" ties fit perfectly.
[/quote]
Got'cha! Apparently the off-gasing from the battery does not corrode them. Is there a special tool to cinch them down? If I go this route, where do you get them and the tool?

I'm concerned that in the (hopefully) unlikely event of an accident, bungee cords would not hold the batteries in place and off they would go!

Thanks.
[/quote]

No tools needed - they work just like the smaller ones. Hand-tightened is all that is needed. You can get them at Home Cheapo or Lowe's or probably any other well stocked hardware store. I think they come in packages of 10-12 for about $5.


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## Airboss (Jul 14, 2007)

jtbmoore said:


> Do you guys have your batteries in an enclosure?


I don't. I leave them in right on the frame so that I can check the water level easily. I've also installed a cut-out switch. (You can get a nice marine-type cut-out switch from Harbor Freight for about $5. There's also the kind that sits on top of the battery terminal that's available at Wally World for about $3, but they don't work on the Trojan's.)


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