# Adding Doors To Under Dinette Storage Area



## garyb1st

Anyone do this mod? I'd like to have access to the storage area without taking the cushions off but am not sure how to remove the front panels. I was going to cut holes in them and add a couple of doors but something tells me I'll regret it. If anyone has done this mod, please explain how you did it.

Thanks


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## rdvholtwood

I think clarkely did it - click here - and then scroll down - is this what your looking to do?


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## Scoutr2

I did this mod last year.  I got the white doors at a local building supply store (not a chain) and bought the hinges and door pull at Lowe's. The thermafoil white door is very close to the design in the Outback and is just a bit brighter white, but nobody notices until I point it out.

I cut around the inside of the aluminum framing and I also added a 1 X 2 board on the hinge and latch sides, to provide a place to attach the hinges and a place to attach the door catch (so it won't pop open during travel). But it was basically a fairly easy job.










The front dinette seat has a drawer in it already, so I added this door to the rear seat for easy access to the large storage space beneath the seat.










Here's the finished look with the door closed.

Hope this helps.

Mike


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## Dan H.

Here is a mod that has been done to access the areas under the seats without using doors.

click this link==>Mod without doors


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## garyb1st

rdvholtwood said:


> I think clarkely did it - click here - and then scroll down - is this what your looking to do?


I liked what Clarkely did but he has a different trailer. I thought it may have come equipped with doors. If so then all he did was add the drawers and hardware. When my slide is in there's only 12 to 15 inches of space to pull the drawer out. When the slide is out, I still don't have as much space as Clarkely.


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## garyb1st

Dan H. said:


> Here is a mod that has been done to access the areas under the seats without using doors.
> 
> click this link==>Mod without doors


Thanks for the link. I like this idea. It also gives me access to the rear bench.


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## garyb1st

Scoutr2 said:


> I did this mod last year. I got the white doors at a local building supply store (not a chain) and bought the hinges and door pull at Lowe's. The thermafoil white door is very close to the design in the Outback and is just a bit brighter white, but nobody notices until I point it out.
> 
> I cut around the inside of the aluminum framing and I also added a 1 X 2 board on the hinge and latch sides, to provide a place to attach the hinges and a place to attach the door catch (so it won't pop open during travel). But it was basically a fairly easy job.
> 
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> The front dinette seat has a drawer in it already, so I added this door to the rear seat for easy access to the large storage space beneath the seat.
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> Here's the finished look with the door closed.
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> Hope this helps.
> 
> Mike


Mike, how did you attach the 1 x 2 boards to the opening?


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## Scoutr2

garyb1st said:


> I did this mod last year. I got the white doors at a local building supply store (not a chain) and bought the hinges and door pull at Lowe's. The thermafoil white door is very close to the design in the Outback and is just a bit brighter white, but nobody notices until I point it out.
> 
> I cut around the inside of the aluminum framing and I also added a 1 X 2 board on the hinge and latch sides, to provide a place to attach the hinges and a place to attach the door catch (so it won't pop open during travel). But it was basically a fairly easy job.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The front dinette seat has a drawer in it already, so I added this door to the rear seat for easy access to the large storage space beneath the seat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the finished look with the door closed.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Mike


Mike, how did you attach the 1 x 2 boards to the opening?
[/quote]

Since I am not a cabinet maker, I just screwed them together with wood screws. If you look closely at the first photo, you can see the screws on the hinge side that go from the front to the rear, thru the width of the 1X2 and into the rear vertical aluminum tube. Same thing on the front. And then look at the latch side of the door, and you can detect the (painted over) screws that go thru the luan face and then into the 1X2, behind. (Same thing on the hinge side.)

The trick was to get a door that was wide enough to overlap (and hide) the screws in the cabinet face, when the door is closed.

I also added a 1X2 across the bottom, because there was nothing behind the luan face at the bottom.

Mike


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## garyb1st

Mike, you're a much better cabinet maker than I.

I can't see the screws but think I understand. What kind of saw did you use? I'm good at pounding two boards together but leave a lot to be desired when it comes to finish carpentry.


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## Oregon_Camper

I didn't have any access to the space below my wardrobe and pantry, so I added two drawers. Simply removed the thin wood they used to close the opening and replaced with drawers from Lowes.

Check out all the shots here...
http://home.comcast.net/~tannerjim1/Mods/a...nal_drawers.htm


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## garyb1st

Oregon_Camper said:


> I didn't have any access to the space below my wardrobe and pantry, so I added two drawers. Simply removed the thin wood they used to close the opening and replaced with drawers from Lowes.


Jim,

Did you cut the wood out or is it held in place with the thin 'plastic?' mounding they use throughout the unit? As I mentioned, I'm not great at the finishing touches. I would prefer to simply slid the molding off if that is possible.

Is the drawer on a metal slide or the more traditional wood type?

Gary


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## Oregon_Camper

garyb1st said:


> I didn't have any access to the space below my wardrobe and pantry, so I added two drawers. Simply removed the thin wood they used to close the opening and replaced with drawers from Lowes.


Jim,

Did you cut the wood out or is it held in place with the thin 'plastic?' mounding they use throughout the unit? As I mentioned, I'm not great at the finishing touches. I would prefer to simply slid the molding off if that is possible.

Is the drawer on a metal slide or the more traditional wood type?

[/quote]

The thin plastic they used was removed. It was attached with staples, so once you get it started it is easy to remove the entire piece. I then found a GREAT way to make the drawer slide. (see picture below). I bought under-mount slides and mounted them to some 2x6 pieces of wood. Measure everything a few time to ensure the drawers open/close and for the correct height...then I screwed the 2x6's to the floor...attach rails and I was done. Had to wait 4-5 weeks for the drawer fronts to arrive, but worth it, as they match the Outback perfectly.

What you're seeing is dog food in the drawer, then the white strip is the pantry frame...then you see into the back of pantry. It is a bit confusing when you first look at this picture.


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## Scoutr2

garyb1st said:


> Mike, you're a much better cabinet maker than I.
> 
> I can't see the screws but think I understand. What kind of saw did you use? I'm good at pounding two boards together but leave a lot to be desired when it comes to finish carpentry.


I just used my sabre saw (electric hand-held jigsaw). I cleaned up the corners with a (Japanese) hand-operated trim saw. I cut the 1X2s with my miter saw.

And I've been thinking about the "drawer under the wardrobe" mod for some time, too. That space is almost unusable. My DD uses that space for her personal items and clothing. We put stuff in the bottom, but it is hard to get to and makes it hard for our DD to organize her stuff other than a pile. A bottom to the cabinet, just above that drawer is the perfect solution. It'll give me something to do during Christmas vacation - or maybe early next spring, depending on the weather.

Mike


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## garyb1st

Scoutr2 said:


> I just used my sabre saw (electric hand-held jigsaw). I cleaned up the corners with a (Japanese) hand-operated trim saw. I cut the 1X2s with my miter saw.
> 
> And I've been thinking about the "drawer under the wardrobe" mod for some time, too. That space is almost unusable. My DD uses that space for her personal items and clothing. We put stuff in the bottom, but it is hard to get to and makes it hard for our DD to organize her stuff other than a pile. A bottom to the cabinet, just above that drawer is the perfect solution. It'll give me something to do during Christmas vacation - or maybe early next spring, depending on the weather.
> 
> Mike


Thanks for the info.

We have the same issue on our under wardrobe storage. It's like the huge storage area between the front seats of our F250. Lots of room but what's needed is always at the bottom. Impossible to organize anything inside.


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## rdvholtwood

garyb1st said:


> I think clarkely did it - click here - and then scroll down - is this what your looking to do?


I liked what Clarkely did but he has a different trailer. I thought it may have come equipped with doors. If so then all he did was add the drawers and hardware. When my slide is in there's only 12 to 15 inches of space to pull the drawer out. When the slide is out, *I still don't have as much space as Clarkely.
*[/quote]

Both models - the 250RS (mine) and 310BHS (I am pretty sure for this model also) have one door for access under the dinette. The width of all the trailers is 8' - so I think the space issue is the same for any trailer considering that mod.


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## beachbum

I ordered thermofoil doors from big box store. Sometime later after I did this mod, I realized the exact matching doors could be ordered from Keystone. Here are some pictures of how I did this mod.
































It is very easy to screw additional framing to the
existing aluminum.

david :


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## Oregon_Camper

beachbum said:


> I ordered thermofoil doors from big box store. Sometime later after I did this mod, I realized the exact matching doors could be ordered from Keystone. Here are some pictures of how I did this mod.
> 
> It is very easy to screw additional framing to the
> existing aluminum.
> 
> david :


What was there before the mod?


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## clarkely

Mine had one new drawer, i put two new ones on in the event that my color match and the framing profiles might be slightly off..........I wanted make sure they were the same.

I did the same thing to the pantry to ensure when i put a larger/longer length door on that it would match and look better.

I did not post the pictures with the new drawer fronts.....because i had literally done it the afternoon before we left for disney.

You can order good doors from any good Shop. If you cannot find what you need i can sell them to you.........and have them drop shipped/ups'd directly to you.

I have a woodworking business/cabinet shop and can get you what you need if necessary. I outsource much of our doors because it is a controlled cost....when we need to make the doors we do.........

Link to doors I sell

As far as cutting you just take everything off and see where you can cut.......and Git-R-Done


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## garyb1st

beachbum said:


> I ordered thermofoil doors from big box store. Sometime later after I did this mod, I realized the exact matching doors could be ordered from Keystone. Here are some pictures of how I did this mod.
> It is very easy to screw additional framing to the
> existing aluminum.
> 
> david :


David, thanks for the pix. It helps to actually see what was done.

Gary


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## beachbum

Oregon_Camper said:


> I ordered thermofoil doors from big box store. Sometime later after I did this mod, I realized the exact matching doors could be ordered from Keystone. Here are some pictures of how I did this mod.
> 
> It is very easy to screw additional framing to the
> existing aluminum.
> 
> david :


What was there before the mod?
[/quote]

The end panel was solid. So,, it had to be removed, cut to size for the door, reinstalled with the additional framing, add the hinges and catch.
david :


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## Rubrhammer

I did this mod also. 
























Here is a link to my gallery. There are descriptions with the pics there. 
http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...m&album=874
After you cut the opening use some white binding on the edges to hide the rough wood. Here is a link to buy the doors direct from the manufacturer. They have a couple of shades of white.
http://www.qualitydoors.com/catalogd/drtf_2386.html
I bought mine from Rocklers THEN found this source.
Its really an easy project and if you measure the width of your margin and draw a line to follow with the saber saw you will get a nice opening that is flush with the framework.
Bob


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## garyb1st

Bob, link to your gallery not there. PLease add.

Thanks


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## Oregon_Camper

garyb1st said:


> Bob, link to your gallery not there. PLease add.
> 
> Thanks


http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showuser=3853


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## Rubrhammer

Links added.
Bob


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## garyb1st

Thanks Bob.


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## Harvey

Going to bring this one back to life after almost 12 years. I am fine with accessing the storage from inside the trailer as is when my 2018 210URS is at the campsite, but I would like to know if there are any good ways to add exterior access doors for this area. That way I can stock/empty/clean it at home when I have the King Bed rear slide retracted. I was thinking it would look like adding storage doors that match the one on front of the unit.

Thanks


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## thefulminator

See post #8 on this topic.

https://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31277


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