# Need Some Help....no Lights Working!



## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

HI
Okay, so we need some help.

Hubby heard noise other day and it was CO2 detector beeping due to low power.

Shore power connected since we came back from camping trip and was working when we put trailer away.

NOW, NO lights will not come one with or without shore power.

We have checked and have power coming from 30Amp plug, trailer electric cord and all outlets in trailer except one outside one.

Bathroom fan comes on although weak, Microwave fan and Microwave panel come on.

Outside plug by trailer backdoor has NO power, No lights through out, slide does not work, electric jack and outside lights do not work, refrig. does not work!

We tested panel and we have power there.

We are at a mystery for what is going on.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks Outbackers!


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Turn off the main breaker on the electrical panel and unplug the shore power. Make sure the batteries are showing a full charge with a voltage tester. Check your lights. If the lights don't come on then it's in the 12v system. In that case check your ground connection to the frame, battery connections and 12v circuit breaker near the batteries. If the lights do come on, then the 12v system works and there is an interruption in the 12v power from the converter. Again, check your connections, hook up shore power and see what happens.


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## RDS (Jul 20, 2011)

With so many things out and you said you have power at the panel, it sounds like a loose or corroded ground somewhere. Most of the time when something is weak like a motor or dim like a bulb it is not a lack of power but a poor path to ground.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

The 12V battery is currently dead due to it not charging up I guess. The outside socket run on 12V right?

When connected to shore power, the lights DO NOT come on at all. When not connected to shore power and just on 12V, the lights do not come on, but of course the battery is dead.

I think there is some correct thought that somehow the battery is not getting charged.

Can the lights run just off shore power if battery is dead?

The outlets have power....so I am confused as to why outlet power but no lights, no refrig., ...the microwave will run but it isnt on 12V circuit.

Geesh, this stinks!

Sandra


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## RDS (Jul 20, 2011)

Cats4Nat said:


> The 12V battery is currently dead due to it not charging up I guess. The outside socket run on 12V right?
> 
> When connected to shore power, the lights DO NOT come on at all. When not connected to shore power and just on 12V, the lights do not come on, but of course the battery is dead.
> 
> ...


Sounds like your 120v circuit is fine. Maybe the inverter is not charging battery and it went dead. Unplug from shore power and hook up tow vehicle, now see if 12v lights work.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

I definitely do not hear the inverter making any charging noises that it usually does.

My hubby said that the AC unit was also beeping a couple days ago...not sure why.

We are going to check with car connected and see what is going on.....we will return with a verdict!

Thanks,
Sandra


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Blown 40 amp fuses is my guess, based on symptoms. We need to know the voltage of the batteries.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

are the 40 amp fuses in the inverter box with the breakers?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Cats4Nat said:


> are the 40 amp fuses in the inverter box with the breakers?


Yes there are two of them and they are set apart from the other fuses.


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Check the GFI outlet in the bathroom. That is most likely the reason the exterior outlets are not working. As far as the battery not charging, check to make sure the the breaker has not tripped for the converter. Also, if you have a 12 volt tester, remove the leads to the battery (making sure they do not touch) see if you have 12 volts coming to that point while on shore power. The reason the lights, fridge and other 12 volt items are not functioning is because the battery is dead. BTW, that was most likely the LP alarm that was alarming. It has also become know as the my battery is almost dead alarm.


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

CamperAndy said:


> are the 40 amp fuses in the inverter box with the breakers?


Yes there are two of them and they are set apart from the other fuses.
[/quote]

I believe that with the 'vintage' version of the Outback that the OP and I have, the 40 amp fuses are located on the front frame rail under the LP cover.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

The 40 Amp fuses look okay in the converter box under refrig. in our TT. They are next to all the 15 amp fuses. Are there 40 Amp fuses somewhere else?

The GFI in bathroom is not tripped and that outlet has power when on shore power. The outside outlet and inside outlet right behind it do not. Both of these outlets are opposite end away from bathroom....would they still be connected to GFI altho that far apart?

We are going to charge battery overnight and reconnect tomorrow to see if we get lights with a full battery. There appears to be power at cables to battery.

It is like a puzzle ...but without an end in sight yet!

Thanks for mucho help...keep it coming!....we are not using TT till Hershey RV show in Sept. Maybe getting another sooner than we thought....hope not....we have college student now!

Sandra


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

Battery is charging on hubbys battery charger,,....initially read 5.7 when first attached.


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

Remember that the outlets are 120v, and not powered by the batteries in any way. They get their power from the shore power cable.

If the shore power is providing 120v to the outlets, and you have no lights, the problem is in the 12v circuit(s) (including the inverter that makes 12vdc from the incoming shore power 120vac), since the lights run on 12v.

With shore power connected, you should have lights regardless of the battery level. No lights? Then the converter is not working, or a fuse is blown, or a breaker tripped.

Suggestions above regarding checking the batteries and converter, etc., are right on target.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Cats4Nat said:


> Battery is charging on hubbys battery charger,,....initially read 5.7 when first attached.


That is never good.

I reread the first post and it looks like the converter is dead. Since this is an older trailer I would says its done its job. BestConverters.com have a good selection and reasonable prices.


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## RDS (Jul 20, 2011)

CamperAndy said:


> Battery is charging on hubbys battery charger,,....initially read 5.7 when first attached.


That is never good.

I reread the first post and it looks like the converter is dead. Since this is an older trailer I would says its done its job. BestConverters.com have a good selection and reasonable prices.
[/quote]

I thought if the 12v lights worked hooked up to TV his converter was dead.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

battery up to 14 this am.

Camper Andy - on the converter,...anyway to test further? ....there is power at breakers but are you saying the part of the converter that works with 12V is bad...it is older trailer. Breakers not tripped and fuses all good. Is it easy fix...I did replace washing machine panel so maybe I can tackle this too and we have electrician friend.

Outside outlet without power ....that seems to be separate issue since outlets works on 120V.

Are the only breakers in the 'brown box' with the fuses ....someone else wrote check breakers by battery...there is a silver box on the frame near the battery.

6am and I am still thinking about this.

Trying to avoid taking it to dealer.

Thanks bunches Outbackers!
Sandra


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Did you ever check and reset the GFI outlet in the bathroom? This was mentioned before in the thread. Some of the older trailers are wired with the power to the converter coming from the GFI outlet.


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## Justman (Jul 22, 2006)

The lights, bathroom fan, furnace blower and refrigerator all use or require a 12volt power source. In this case, your battery provides the 12 volts...and the battery is charged by the convertor. If the convertor isn't working, the battery won't get charged.

Since you've charged the battery using an external charger, try the lights again. If they turn on, the issue is more than likely with the convertor.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

Battery charged, taken to Advanced auto where they confirm battery is good...... so then connected to TT and still no lights, but jack is working now and bathroom fan is working.....so main issue is no lights at all, inside or out.

Is there a fuse for lights?

Sandra


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

I don't want to confuse the topic with adding more stuff to your plate. I removed my earlier post.


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

I am going to step out on a limb here and as we have the same year unit, assume that we have the same load center. On the 12 volt side of the fuses, there are 2 green 30 amp fuses above the 8 15 amp fuses. They both have to do with the converter. Are they both good? While you are in the load center, is everything thight?


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

H2o Sprayer,....we have 2 40 amp fuses next to the 15 amps and they appear okay....everything seems tight.

There is no hum or fan noise from converter at all when connected to shore power.

Battery is at 13 so still charged,....when connected to shore power and battery disconnected,...no lights, Refrig says 'check', no slide movement, barely bathroom fan movement, no jack and no AC....should the AC be coming on when connected to shore power even if not connected to battery?

When connectd to battery only, which is charged up,..there are no lights altho the fan and sewer/water empty/full panel will light,....no big 12V draws work.

HOWEVER,..when connected to TV without TT battery or shore power,.....WE HAVE LIGHTS!!

If we have bad converter, would still test positive with voltmeter even tho not charging battery?

and converter be changed by us...is it difficult...doesnt look too bad as long as you mark wire to go back from where they came from....dealer charges $95 an hr....converter about $162.

Hubby says technician recommend 50 amp converter...does that make sense ?...if so, why?

BTW, you guys are kind and awesome!

Sandra and Dave


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Still sounds like a bad 12v ground to frame to me.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

okay, I will check...where is that...I am guessing on the frame which is the tongue where LP tanks are...?


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Food for thought..with your battery being as low as it was, it should have been charging at full output from your converter thus heating it up and making the fan come on. As far as no air conditioner, it does require 12 volts at the control panel in the AC unit. The little red light that you usually see flashing in there is indication that you have 12 volts. I changed my converter out this spring. If you try searching, you should be able to find a tutorial with pictures that was done by CaliforniaJim. I would find the thread for you but searching from a phone is a bit hard.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

LET ME START BY SAYING I AGAIN LOVE MY OUTBACK!! and definitely would hug everyone who posted on my 'Converter' drama.....we took out everything ..tightened up everything....found a loose connection at battery ......tightened retaped....and VOILA!....we have lights...we have power...if the outback had her stabilizers on...I would have done my OUTBACK JIG!!

So here is the last question.....when reconnecting black and white cables at fuse panel at converter....BLACK GOES TO POSITIVE AND WHITE TO NEGATIVE or the other way around?

I did find California Jim's fine tutorial on his new converter and saw that his old was black to positive and white to negative....so I am guessing that is right!?

Did I mention ..I love you guys on Outbackers!

Sandra


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

You should have one of these on the tongue somewhere.


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## RDS (Jul 20, 2011)

thefulminator said:


> You should have one of these on the tongue somewhere.


Like he said.

Glad you found problem.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

yes on battery..we actually have have something similar in form of decal









So I assuming wires inside converter..one black and one white reconnect same...black is positive and white is negative?

Hubby will connect LP alrm tomorrow to see if slow drain off battery occurs....any other way to test converter charging battery than that?

Hopefully this will be a lesson learned!!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Cats4Nat said:


> Hubby will connect LP alrm tomorrow to see if slow drain off battery occurs....any other way to test converter charging battery than that?


Get a volt meter and check battery voltage with shore power off then connect shore power. If the converter is charging the voltage at the battery will go up. It should read 13.2 to 13.6 vdc typically when charging.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

DEALER thinks converter fan might be shot since we havent really heard fan go off .....so new converter may be needed anyway.?

They are suggesting 55a instead of 45a...but WHY?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Cats4Nat said:


> DEALER thinks converter fan might be shot since we havent really heard fan go off .....so new converter may be needed anyway.?
> 
> They are suggesting 55a instead of 45a...but WHY?


Cost is only a couple of dollars more and it would have better load margin. Plus that may be just what he has in stock.


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## Cats4Nat (Jan 28, 2004)

Dealer says cost is same for 45a vs. 55a....so I guess go high!


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