# Hitch Setup



## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I just loaded my new heavier bike in my Roo and now my front end sit up 1 1/2 inches higher than my rear. If I remove the equalizer bars it's only 1 inch higher in the front. How do I adjust my hitch to make my truck sit level. thanks Kip


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## hazmat456 (Jul 26, 2007)

tip the head back by adding more washers to the pin in the middle of the hitch , I would suggest trying to add another link in your chains buy the bars look pretty close to the camper frame already. if that doesn't work then you need higher rated bars.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I am missing something. You say without the weight distribution bars the front of the truck is lower then with them???


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## hazmat456 (Jul 26, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> I am missing something. You say without the weight distribution bars the front of the truck is lower then with them???


I hope that he meant when he removed the bike?


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## jzero (Mar 24, 2005)

No kidding; with an 800 lb. motorcycle in the front of it? You might want to consider air bags or heavier rear springs to start. I would weigh the tongue with the bike in it and go back to the manufacture recommendations for w/d bars. Nice Bike by the way.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Tongue weight is 1200. You will need to pretty much set the head angle all the way back. What weight is your wd bars?

Basically you have no weight distribution with your current set up in the pic.

Carey


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I wasn't on level ground as I was checking setup with new bike. I measured from the top of my tire to bottom of fender. Without the spring bars it was 7" rear 8 front. After snugging up spring bars it was 7" rear 8 1/2" front. I'm trying to find out what weight spring bars I have now. It's a Husky and the bars have C3-1000 stamped on the end. I can't find it in the husky web site so I sent an email to them for help. When I bought the trailer he was using a dodge that was pretty close to the same height as my F250, so I just hooked it up and went. It pulls good so I never changed anything. I probably should start from scratch and recheck everything....I don't understand this head tilt. I see in the manual how to adjust, but I don't understand how that helps. The tilt angle can't change that much by adding/subtracting a couple of washers. 
Thanks guys

Kip


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I just got a quick reply back from Husky....Your bars are rated for 1000lbs of Tongue weight and 10,000lbs gross trailer weight.

Husky Tech
I guess I need a bigger set up.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Looking at the overall picture and what you are reporting, I think you need to step back to square one:

1. Disconnect everything
2. On level ground with the trailer level, measure the distance to the top of the tounge.
3. Tilt the hitch head rearward as much as is possible, and set the ball height to be as close as is possible to the top of the frame height.
4. Measure the height in the wheel wells of the truck sitting on the same level ground.
5. Lower the trailer onto the hitch and see where it sets (it needs to be loaded), re-measuring the wheel wells.
6. Load up the spring bars adjusting links until the front does not rise at all (Ideally it should sink a little, but less than the back on a Super Duty, and the ride will probably be better if it stays basically at the unloaded height)
7. Check the trailer to ensure it is sitting rather level.

Try this and let us know how it works out.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

The head angle is what forces the bars to load. The head angle is what creates the spring force in the bars and creates a weight shift of the load/weight. If the head angle is moved back, the front end of the bars will move at an angle along with the hitch head unit. Then if you use about the same links of chain as now, this will shift some of the weight of the tongue off of the tongue/truck. This will give back some weight that is removed from the front of your truck, lowering the nose of the truck. Some weight will be shifted to the trailer axles too.

You can get your hitch weight from 1200 to 8-900 if the bars are adjusted properly. Your 3/4 will set at level or maybe 1/2 inch past level in the rear. Either will be perfect.

You will need to lower the hitch head unit on the shank. Right now your trailer is level, If your truck comes up any, it will also cause the trailer nose to come up and thats a bad thing. You always want the trailer level or slighly nose down.. Nose up will promote sway.

I would remove the 2 head bolts.. 1-1/8 wrench, maybe 2. Or a combination of a socket and wrench. Washer will need added if thats what kind of head unit you have.

Install hitch head at bottom bolt hole on shank. Install top and bottom bolts. Lay back hitch head in its top hole using washers or adjusting teeth. The trailer ball will be at an angle.

The hitch head angle does change things that much..

Your bars are perfect for the hitch weight. But will only work if the head angle is leaned back around 90-95% of its range.

Once this is done, before dropping hitch all the way using the tongue jack, snap up the wd bars.. Then as you lower the tongue jack, you will see a loading of the wd bars..

If you go to a bigger bar setup, your ride will sufer.. 1000 is perfect for your 3/4 ton... Just remember that using a wd set up that is close to actual hitch weight requires you to take full advantage of the physics of the hitch to gain the full potential that the wd hitch can create.

Yes, if your hitch was a bigger unit 12-1400, you could use less hitch angle and remove more tongue weight with same angle as a smaller hitch, but your ride will sufer doing things that way as you end up with bars that interfere with the cycle of the trucks suspension.

You will need to have that hitch at its maximum settings for it to work for you. Otherwise just remove it and toss it.. It will be worthless to use it like its set up right now..

Try this and see how it works, take some pics and show us what you came up with. '

Hope this helps,
Carey


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Also a 2001 3/4 ford has a softer suspension and a lower gvw than 3/4 ford trucks have of today.

I wouldnt expect the truck to be level. You may need to go to a 1200 bar set up to get it level. I wouldnt do that though. I would use air bags to level it out if it were me.

But anyway just wanted to add that 2001 3/4 fords have a more compliant suspension comparred to 3/4 fords of today.

Carey


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

Great info! Thanks for the angle lesson, that makes perfect sense to me. I'm one of those hard headed guys that need to understand why they are doing something. If it ever stops raining here I'll get to it. Not that I care if I get wet....I don't want to clean the bike!








Kip


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

HogaRoo said:


> I see in the manual how to adjust, but I don't understand how that helps. The tilt angle can't change that much by adding/subtracting a couple of washers.
> Thanks guys
> 
> Kip


The washers may only add 1/8" to the tilt at the head but that results in about 1" change at the chains. So if you hook up to the same link you are adding significantly to the spring load of the bars.


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## jzero (Mar 24, 2005)

....whispering...airbags...


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

One quick question to be sure I'm on the right page. When tilting the head "back" I'm tilting the hitch ball back toward the trailer?


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

HogaRoo said:


> One quick question to be sure I'm on the right page. When tilting the head "back" I'm tilting the hitch ball back toward the trailer?


Yes sir, thats right.

Carey


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

Ok I leveled the trailer, my ball height is about 2 inches lower than the frame height. but I'm not sure about the tilt. My present set up had four washers which was about half of the available tilt angle. Theres enough room to add 3 maybe 4 more washers to max out the tilt angle. That will tilt the head back another 1/4 of an inch. Do I want to have that much? Max rearward tilt?


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

HogaRoo said:


> Ok I leveled the trailer, set my ball height about an inch higher..even with the frame height. but I'm not sure about the tilt. My present set up had four washers which was about half of the available tilt angle. Theres enough room to add 3 maybe 4 more washers to max out the tilt angle. That will tilt the head back another 1/4 of an inch. Do I want to have that much? Max rearward tilt?


There is no written law about hitch head angle.. Its all a balance.. Its a balance between ride, and weight transfer. The hitch is just as safe all the way back as it is all the way forward.. All the way back requires you to watch getting the trailer taller than your truck, so whan coming out of a gas station.. That way the tongue on the trailer doesnt get damaged.. Because the trailer ball coupler can only go so far.. About 15 degrees.

I went back and looked at all the posts... I never seen if you told us what your truck is doing now... Is it still low in the back? How Much? Whats your front end height now?

Im gonna guess that you need to add 2 more washers if its maxed at 4 more washers..

Your gonna need about 90% with your trailer hitch weight of 1200 on your truck and using a 1000lb wd hitch..

Post us some more pics showing what you have now..

Do you like the ride.. Any better/worse?

I will be out of the country till about this time tomoorow, but there is some smart guys here and they can help you just as much as I can..

Carey


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I'm just doing it now. I need to get some washers. The Husky hitch setup tells me to set the ball height 1/16 higher than the hitch height for every 100 lbs of tounge weight. That would be 3/4 inch higher than the trailer height. But you guys say even or lower than the trailer hitch height. I'm not sure which way to go.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

You want the trailer level, or slightly nose down...

Whatever it takes to make this happen is fine..

Set the ball height like they tell you and lets see what you get..

Have trailer level front and rear.. Measure to top of Ball coupler..

Now measure to top of hitch ball before hooking up trailer, and while truck is unloaded..

These are guidlines the mfr is giving about your hitch... Nothing is set in stone with wd systems.. again its all about having the trailer level, or slightly nose down when hooked up.. Its also all about having your truck level or slightly nose high when hooked up..

Once you acheive that, then drive it and readjust if ride is bad... We'll go thru that later..

Right now get your truck level as you can, and get trailer level, or slighly nose down...

Take a pic and show us what it looks like... Hey now now pun here.. lol

Sorry dude, I gotta head for Canada.. I got 4 more hours to go, and need to get to sleep by 10 pm mtn.. Good Luck!

Carey


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

If the ball is 2" low, raise it one setting. That should get you close. You could do 2 settings, but I'm betting not. Next tilt the head back and then adjust the chain length for good weight transfer. I'd bet that will do it.


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I think I'm done with the height adjustment. I went up almost 2 inches on ball height. Not sure about the tilt angle but This setup seems pretty good. I'll have to roadtest it tomorrow. I ended up with a trailer height of 17 1/4 in the rear and 16 up front. My truck has 38 3/4 rear and 39 front with the equalizer bars loaded. Unloaded (eq bars)truck height is 38 1/4 rear and 39 1/4 front. (the truck by itself was 40 1/2 rear and 38 3/4 front) I'm using the 2nd link chain on the equalizer bars. I tried the 3rd link but it really didn't change anything.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Based on your numbers I would suggest you test drive it but plan on adding those washers. I expect you will need 2 or 3 more. You are nose high on the truck even with the WDH pulled up. This tells me you still need more weight transfer. It is okay to swath some in the back when you are hitched but you do not want to unload the front and that is what is happening when the front end goes up.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> Based on your numbers I would suggest you test drive it but plan on adding those washers. I expect you will need 2 or 3 more. You are nose high on the truck even with the WDH pulled up. This tells me you still need more weight transfer. It is okay to swath some in the back when you are hitched but you do not want to unload the front and that is what is happening when the front end goes up.


X2, try it, but you might need just a touch more weight distribution. Since your bars are level now, you will need to tilt the head back a touch to get any more weight transfer. The ball height seems to be correct now.

It sounds like you are 90% of the way there.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Yep agree with Andy and Nathan.. Just a bit more and youll have it.. Good Job! I agree, time to drive it.

Patience and perserverence is the way to find the sweet spot and balance for what works best on your set up..

Carey


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## HogaRoo (Oct 23, 2007)

I added 3 washers to increase the tilt.( I still can add 2 more) Hooked every thing back up, used the second link on the chain for the equalizer. This brought the truck equal height 39 inches front and rear. trailer is sitting almost level a little bit nose down. I took it for a test ride and everything seems good. A lot more popping when I turn. It actually pulled what I thought was good before, but with the heavier bike I wanted to get it right. I'm heading for Ohio this weekend that's the big test. I'll let you know. Thanks for all the great info.
Kip


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Good deal. Yep things are under pressure having the head angle tilted back. It should make a bunch of noise which is normal. Im glad we could help you and Im glad you didnt give up on us..

Sounds like you got it dialed in perfect to me..

Have a great trip and let us know how it rides.

Carey


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