# Water Pressure Regulator



## lafpd04 (Jan 4, 2007)

OK. The little metal thingy that you put on your water hose to regulate city water pressure. Got It? I know this is probably personal prefference, but is there a correct way to do it. I put my regulator on the camper end of the hose. Someone told me other day that I should put it on the faucet end to regulate the pressure from the hose. I say it doesnt matter. WHAT SAY YOU??


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

The order I use is....filter on the faucet, regulator, then hose to the camper...

I don't know if it is right or wrong but that is the way I do it.

Gary


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Say the regulator is set for 40 psi and your trailer pluming is rated for 40 psi and the water from the city connection is 60 psi and you have 25 foot of hose with a 5 psi drop and a water filter with a 10 psi drop.

These are all typical numbers you could see.

You would want to install the filter, then the hose then the regulator to the trailer. The trailer would then get 40 psi.

If you installed the regulator first then the filter then the hose you would end up with 25 psi at the trailer from the same city water source.

Either way you may not notice a real difference as all of the fixtures in the trailer are set for low flow and pressure form the on board pump and they choke down about anything over 25 psi.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

The water pressure regulator should be the last thing in line before going into your trailer (connect it to the trailer).

Usually, it won't make much difference, but consider that you have the regulator on the faucet, the water on, and the hose draped across the ground and up to the trailer. If it is a REALLY warm and sunny day, the heat from the environment can help build pressure up in the hose - which is AFTER your regulator. If your regulator is attached to the trailer, it does not matter what the campground water system pressure is, nor how much extra pressure might be created by the sun beating down on the hose.

I used to hook mine up to the faucet, too, until someone pointed out this often overlooked piece of information. (I was in Moab, Utah, where the average daytime temps in summer can be 105+ degrees.)

Just my $.02

Mike


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## Scrib (Jun 28, 2005)

+1


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

As a firefighter I should have remembered that there was friction loss in the hose.....I will start with filter, hose, regulator, and then trailer.

Gary


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## DaveRL (Feb 26, 2004)

Four or five years ago we were staying in a great CG down near the palisades of the Kentucky River. Water pressure was high and during to course of that weekend we saw five instances of hoses exploding from the pressure. Looked like broken fire hoses dancing all over the CG. This was in the fall. Had nothing to do with heat.

Since then, I always put my regulator before the hose.


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## N7OQ (Jun 10, 2006)

CamperAndy said:


> Say the regulator is set for 40 psi and your trailer pluming is rated for 40 psi and the water from the city connection is 60 psi and you have 25 foot of hose with a 5 psi drop and a water filter with a 10 psi drop.
> 
> These are all typical numbers you could see.
> 
> ...


Good info Andy, I have been doing it wrong too, just didn't think about it.


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## Txcamper (Apr 3, 2006)

You could use two if you can't decide and be extra safe.

I put mine on the trailer input.


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## lafpd04 (Jan 4, 2007)

Txcamper said:


> You could use two if you can't decide and be extra safe.
> 
> I put mine on the trailer input.


I was just thinking the same thing. I normally put it on the trailer, but I might buy another one just for extra precaution.


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## Reverie (Aug 9, 2004)

Not to stir this up but...

I put my regulator on between the trailer and the "L". From an engineering standpoint why would it make a difference where I put it on, as long as it is between the water system and the trailer?

Reverie


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

CamperAndy said:


> Say the regulator is set for 40 psi and your trailer pluming is rated for 40 psi and the water from the city connection is 60 psi and you have 25 foot of hose with a 5 psi drop and a water filter with a 10 psi drop.
> 
> These are all typical numbers you could see.
> 
> ...


Good info, and indisputable.

However, I still put my heavy brass regulator at the hose bibb. Reason? The plastic hose connection on the Outback is not capable of safely carrying the weight. My kiddies would snap it right off. Maybe I'll make a small jumper hose someday.

I'm using one of these:


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Scoutr2 said:


> The water pressure regulator should be the last thing in line before going into your trailer (connect it to the trailer).
> 
> Usually, it won't make much difference, but consider that you have the regulator on the faucet, the water on, and the hose draped across the ground and up to the trailer. If it is a REALLY warm and sunny day, the heat from the environment can help build pressure up in the hose - which is AFTER your regulator. If your regulator is attached to the trailer, it does not matter what the campground water system pressure is, nor how much extra pressure might be created by the sun beating down on the hose.
> 
> ...


I hadn't thought about the hose bursting - must be REALLY high pressure. Glad someone pointed that out. I still have an older plastic regulator that I'll use at the hose bib, then the good brass one at the trailer.

Also, I was able to find a swiveling connector with a 45 degree angle. It goes between my regulator and the trailer connection. I've also seen 90 degree angle connectors. It takes a lot of stress off the hose coupling on the side of the trailer.

Mike


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## matty1 (Mar 7, 2005)

sounds like two ways to do it, like anything else. I always attach it to the water spigot, takes the strain off of a hose that is sitting in the hot sun (even though it is a white hose).


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## kargorooOutbacker (Jan 8, 2007)

Honestly, the order you put the WPR doesnâ€™t matter if your only concern is the high pressure.
But it does if you donâ€™t want to have too little pressure.
The order I use is: hose- filter-WPR-trailer.

My 2 cents


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## campmg (Dec 24, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> Say the regulator is set for 40 psi and your trailer pluming is rated for 40 psi and the water from the city connection is 60 psi and you have 25 foot of hose with a 5 psi drop and a water filter with a 10 psi drop.
> 
> These are all typical numbers you could see.
> 
> ...


That's why his kid is going to Annapolis. Thanks for the help Andy.


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## matty1 (Mar 7, 2005)

funny how something this little got me concerned, emailed the manufacturer of my water regulator and they recommended to put the regulator at the spigot for the exact reason I stated, they get numerous complaints of blown hoses..on those that have the regulator attached to the camper. He stated that "it just makes sense to regulate the pressure of the whole hose and trailer system from the source." I had coied the one post above about the pressure drop in the hose, and he said to get a pressure gauge aand measue and you will find out that the pressure going into the camper is exactly what the regulator is set for at the spigot.

Makes sense to me.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

matty1 said:


> funny how something this little got me concerned, emailed the manufacturer of my water regulator and they recommended to put the regulator at the spigot for the exact reason I stated, they get numerous complaints of blown hoses..on those that have the regulator attached to the camper. He stated that "it just makes sense to regulate the pressure of the whole hose and trailer system from the source." I had coied the one post above about the pressure drop in the hose, and he said to get a pressure gauge aand measue and you will find out that the pressure going into the camper is exactly what the regulator is set for at the spigot.
> 
> Makes sense to me.


Static pressure (no flow) will be equal to or slightly above the set pressure of the regulator at the trailer.

Dynamic pressure (flowing) will depend on a multitude of things and will never be equal to the set pressure of the regulator at the trailer but equal to the set pressure minus the differential losses in the system.

That said, you can go back to my first post and see that I mention it really should not make any difference since the trailer fitting are sized for the on board pump and it only makes around 25 psi.

If you camp where the system pressure is over 80 psi you should have 2 regulators, one on the spigot and one at the trailer. The close rate on the typical RV water regulator is too slow to prevent over pressure down stream of the regulator when you stop the flow.


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## bridge bandit (Apr 29, 2006)

In my short time of camping I notice the amazing number of people that don't use a regulator.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

I use my regulator at the spigot side followed by the hose than filter to TT. I have not had an issue with too low of water pressure. I think the regulator is also a "back flow preventer". My reasoning right or wrong is

I try and keep my system as separate as I can to prevent backflow and hose bursting.
My filter is after the hose - Just in case something is in my hose ... it will not enter my TT because the filter is the last.

Thor


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## Swany (Mar 2, 2006)

Fourwinds said:


> OK. The little metal thingy that you put on your water hose to regulate city water pressure. Got It? I know this is probably personal prefference, but is there a correct way to do it. I put my regulator on the camper end of the hose. Someone told me other day that I should put it on the faucet end to regulate the pressure from the hose. I say it doesnt matter. WHAT SAY YOU??


I suppose an engineer could get pretty scientific about this but let's try a little common sense. The reason that you use a regulator is to reduce the sometimes high psi of parks so as to not damage the various plumbing components of you RV. So why not protect the hose and the filter as well and put the regulator at the park's spigot? That's the way I do it.


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

While we are on the water pressure regulator topic:

1. Can a WPR go bad -- block too much flow? I installed a PUR faucet filter at the kitchen faucet and I can barely get a trickle out of it. I'm wondering if my WPR is too restrictive, or maybe the PUR needs higher pressure?

2. Any recommendations on a water pressure gauge? The ones sold at CW have very poor user ratings.

3. What is the max pressure for the OB? I can't find anything in the manual that tells me, other than warning me about high pressure in mountainous areas.









4. Can I increase flow rate but still keep a safe dynamic pressure by buying a fancy WPR?

By the way, I bought a second WPR for use with my gray hose when dumping, in order to protect my Tornado flush and the line to it. It restricts the flow too much and the device will not spin with it on the hose.


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## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

GoVols said:


> I bought a second (Water Pressure Regulator) for use with my gray hose when dumping, in order to protect my Tornado flush and the line to it. It restricts the flow too much and the device will not spin with it on the hose.


Yes, I've had the same experience. I regulate the pressure manually by listening to Tornado and increasing the pressure until is starts operating. On the other extreme it is possible to over-pressure the hose and fittings (been there, done that) so you do need to be careful.

Ed


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## Burger (Dec 20, 2005)

I've been using two WPRs for years, one at the spigot and one at the trailer. Never had a problem with an overpressured hose or underpressured flow. They're cheap insurance


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

GoVols said:


> While we are on the water pressure regulator topic:
> 
> 1. Can a WPR go bad -- block too much flow? I installed a PUR faucet filter at the kitchen faucet and I can barely get a trickle out of it. I'm wondering if my WPR is too restrictive, or maybe the PUR needs higher pressure?
> 
> ...


HI!
1) I had one totally QUIT on me, and, so, I always carry a spare. Mine went from fine water pressure to NO water pressure, and I was in the mountains.
2,3&4) Found one (I'll get the name brand for you, in daylight hrs), blue connector ring, with brass, at a different camper supply store. So far, it's done well, was a few dollars (I mean 4-5 more) than the one at CW, has a 30# water pressure capacity.

I, like others, connect at the spigot to prevent damage from hoses/filter, etc.
Darlene


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## Scott and Jamie (Aug 27, 2006)

Regulator will work best for volume at the TT conection....But I also use regulator set @ 70psi on the faucet so I don't blow a hose. With our Sob we sprung a leak under the kitchen sink (no regulator) and found out that the preasure was just over 90 psi in the lower camp site we were in. If you are in a lower site the psi will be higher than the upper sites. With 0.433 per foot head preasure it is very easy to have way to much or not enough preasure.

The safest way is with a high quality regulator that you can control like California Jim has. Boy somthing else to add to the mod list









Scott


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

For those that are interested, and even those that are not, at 12 gallons per minute flow, a 3/4" diameter hose will typically have approx 8 psi of loss over 50 ft. Reduce the flow to 6 gpm, and that pressure loss is reduced to about 2 psi. Reduce the flow even more to 2.5 gpm (the rated flow if the factory shower head in my Outback) and that friction loss is reduced to a little more the 0.3 psi.

Friction loss in the hose in inversely effected by the speed of the water through a given conduit...more gpm=more friction=more pressure needed to move the water.

Of course, I couldn't find a hose coefficient for 1/2" and 5/8" hose, which most RV supply hoses are, so those numbers will be higher on a typical RV set up, but I really don't think friction loss is of great concern to the typical RV user, unless of course he is trying to extinguish a fire, or hook up to a water supply several hundred feet from his or her camper.

While the water pressure will increase with temperature, so will the pliability of the hose, so I'd have to see the numbers on that to accept that it should be a concern. Also, remember, like Andy stated the filter and other parts and pieces in the "system" will have a pressure friction loss to them, including the elbow fitting that many of us use to take some of the strain off the trailer connection.

For the record, I am not a hydraulic engineer, and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night....and the order of appliances/adapters from the hose bib I use is as follows, gated Y connector, so that I can hook up both the fresh water supply, and a utility hose, then for the fresh water line, the regulator, filter, hose, elbow, and trailer.

Tim


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## kyoutback (Jul 12, 2004)

DaveRL said:


> Four or five years ago we were staying in a great CG down near the palisades of the Kentucky River. Water pressure was high and during to course of that weekend we saw five instances of hoses exploding from the pressure. Looked like broken fire hoses dancing all over the CG. This was in the fall. Had nothing to do with heat.
> 
> Since then, I always put my regulator before the hose.


Not to hijack a thread or anything but did this campground happen to be Cummins Ferry? We camped there a couple of years in a row and really enjoyed it. Not a whole lot for the kids but still a great place to camp.


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## Ldeneau (Mar 8, 2007)

The reason I've been putting mine on the trailer is
because I lost one once when I let one of the kids put
the hose away. It was left on the hose bib and I bet
someone else is using it now.....


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