# Steps Repairs



## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

Soon after getting my Outback 5th wheeler I had dropped the passenger side wheel in a deep storm drain and bent my steps back. I used a comealong to pull it back into shape but afterwards one side started coming loss. Finally took the steps off (4 bolts) and found out that one side of the step box had pulled off and and is hanging just by the back. Now I've got to figure out how to get this reattached and strengthen so that the steps don't keep falling off. It looks like this bracket is welded to the back with only a bolt holding the front. May take it to work and have a couple of guys look at it to see if we can get it fixed better. Has anyone had any experience repairing this?


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

Just thought I'd suggest that a replacement set of steps is probably the best fix. The "box" they are mounted in will need to be inspected carefully. More than likely the welds or other hardware need to be redone in some way. Folding steps are really not that expensive considering you put yourself and loved ones at risk if they fail. Check here for comparable replacements: RV STUFF


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## joeymac (Aug 19, 2010)

Lmbevard said:


> Soon after getting my Outback 5th wheeler I had dropped the passenger side wheel in a deep storm drain and bent my steps back. I used a comealong to pull it back into shape but afterwards one side started coming loss. Finally took the steps off (4 bolts) and found out that one side of the step box had pulled off and and is hanging just by the back. Now I've got to figure out how to get this reattached and strengthen so that the steps don't keep falling off. It looks like this bracket is welded to the back with only a bolt holding the front. May take it to work and have a couple of guys look at it to see if we can get it fixed better. Has anyone had any experience repairing this?


Just had the same thing happen to one of my pair of steps. The welding broke in the back, and cased the stairs to become unstable. Took both sets off, and took them to a welding shop. 
Had him re-weld and reinforce the broken ones, and reinforce the not broken ones with more steel. Then plan on re-painting then jet black and they should look like new.


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## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

Been there, done that, broke the steps. Tried to straighten them, but they looked more like a trapezoid than anything else.

But I just found a superior replacement at an RV store. Got 'em replaced around the corner at an auto repair shop. All on a lunch break while we were traveling through Springfield, Missouri in 2008.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

Actually the steps are ok. I had got then straighten out last year so they work better than new. The problem is that one of the brackets in the box holding the steps has torn loss on the outside and then got bent all out of shape. I was thinking of getting a heavier piece to attach to the stud on the outside, tack weld to the back and then bolt on to hold the broken bracket in place. Just have to get this crazy weather we are having to settle down. We had one snow early in the winter and then last Friday had 8" of snow and calling for additional 9" tonight and tomorrow. Beside that, we have had some heavy rains in the last month so where the camper is setting is almost a pond. Have got a couple of people at work that when the weather gets better I'm going to have them look at it. Until then, that first step is a duzzy.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

robertized said:


> Lmbevard I was reading your post about the steps and how there mounted to the trailer. I haven't had a problem with mine yet, but I don't like the soft feel when I stepped on them or the side to side movement of the box that there mounted in. To remedy this problem I made two triangular gussets for each step box, both front and rear steps. One side of the gusset is bolted to the back of the step box frame and the other to the bottom of the 8" main I-beam of the trailer frame. This gave the steps a more substantial feel because they are attached on two diferent plains, one on the floor panel of the trailer and the other 90 degrees and, 8" down on the I-beam. Using bolts instead of welding allows the unit to be removed and or replaced should it become necessary in the future. I hope this helpes you.


Yah looking at how the step box is attached, it's not very good. There is a thin piece of steel that is tacked welded to the back and then held by only one bolt on the front side. One of mine is torn along the top so that it is no longer held tight at the top. Talked to the guys at work and they do have some 4" angle that we might use to hold it together. Just have to wait till it's warmer and dry.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

Lmbevard said:


> Lmbevard I was reading your post about the steps and how there mounted to the trailer. I haven't had a problem with mine yet, but I don't like the soft feel when I stepped on them or the side to side movement of the box that there mounted in. To remedy this problem I made two triangular gussets for each step box, both front and rear steps. One side of the gusset is bolted to the back of the step box frame and the other to the bottom of the 8" main I-beam of the trailer frame. This gave the steps a more substantial feel because they are attached on two diferent plains, one on the floor panel of the trailer and the other 90 degrees and, 8" down on the I-beam. Using bolts instead of welding allows the unit to be removed and or replaced should it become necessary in the future. I hope this helpes you.


Yah looking at how the step box is attached, it's not very good. There is a thin piece of steel that is tacked welded to the back and then held by only one bolt on the front side. One of mine is torn along the top so that it is no longer held tight at the top. Talked to the guys at work and they do have some 4" angle that we might use to hold it together. Just have to wait till it's warmer and dry.
[/quote]

similar problem. What I noticed is that they use two carriage bolts on each side to hold the steps to the frame. The bolts are in the same horizontal plane so it puts all the downward load on the front bolt that comes through the trailer flange. To counter this type of twisting force you really want triangulated support. There are several round 3/8" holes in the back of my step frame. Find the lowest one that still hits the trailer flange and drill through the trailer flange and install a bolt on both sides. Now you have a nice triangulated support for the steps taking a big load off that one front bolt coming down through the frame flange. Now when you step down on steps, the front bolt and sheet metal doesn't take the load, the load is taken mostly by the back carriage bolt and bolt underneath it that tries to keep the steps from rotating.

if you want even more support, as I did, I took some 2 1/2" x 1/8" angle iron cut to the length that would fit along the top edge. Drilled for the front bolt and not wanting to get out my welder, drilled a horizontal hole at the back through the frame flange. Then since the angle iron goes below the carriage bolts, drilled through for the carriage bolts. That sucker is solid now! To keep the angle iron flush against the top, I cut it short to fit just to the beginning of the I beam flange than cut another piece of angle iron and welded it to the inside of the existing angle iron and cut to length. This way the angle iron fits flush against the top then steps down to accomidate the I beam flange. probably not necessary but does make a cleaner looking install.

Next step now that it is all together and working is to take the angle iron back off and powder coat it. didn't want to do that till I knew everything was working as I expected. Now that I've done this, I see no need to weld the angle to anything.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

Good idea on the additional bolts. Will be adding some angle iron to support the bracket. Suppose to get into the 50's next week so getting things ready to go.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

Finally got warm enough and dry enough to work on the step bracket so I could reinstall the steps. Cut a piece of 2" X 2" angle iron to support the bracket, drilled though it for the support bolts and tightened everything down. Only problem I ran into was that the welded end of the bracket had bent inwards so the box was smaller than the now straighten steps and I had to use a floor jack and hammer to get the steps back in. Will add a bolt to the bottom of the brackets to give it a little more support and call it done. Now to work on the A/C unit.


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

if you want even more support, as I did, I took some 2 1/2" x 1/8" angle iron cut to the length that would fit along the top edge. Drilled for the front bolt and not wanting to get out my welder, drilled a horizontal hole at the back through the frame flange. Then since the angle iron goes below the carriage bolts, drilled through for the carriage bolts. That sucker is solid now! To keep the angle iron flush against the top, I cut it short to fit just to the beginning of the I beam flange than cut another piece of angle iron and welded it to the inside of the existing angle iron and cut to length. This way the angle iron fits flush against the top then steps down to accomidate the I beam flange. probably not necessary but does make a cleaner looking install.

Next step now that it is all together and working is to take the angle iron back off and powder coat it. didn't want to do that till I knew everything was working as I expected. Now that I've done this, I see no need to weld the angle to anything.
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KTMRACER
Would it be possible to show some photos of the angle iron supports you installed to support the steps? My brand new fiver has a lot of give in the floor causing the floor to flex when weight is placed on the steps. This is really annoying and I am concerned it will just get worse over time. I want to weigh my options before I decide to take in for warranty repair. The fix you describe sounds like it might resolve my problem. 
Thanks, Steve


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