# Rear Slide Out Bracket Latch Bent 23krs



## brightidea (Aug 13, 2009)

I bought a 2007 23krs and was going on our first trip last week. On the day before left, we had the bed out just checking things out and one of the supports fell off. On examining the latches I noticed the bottom bracket works fine because the load was pushing into the bracket but the force on the top backet was away from the trailer which places the load on the latch. The support that fell out had a bracket that the latch had bent out.

Of course we discovered this at 5pm the night before our departure so no way to get a new one. I switched it with one of the awning brackets which got us through the trip.

It seems like a bad design to have the weight supported by the latch. Am I missing something here or has anyone had this problem?? Could not find any posts about it.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bob


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## crunchman12002 (Jul 26, 2009)

brightidea said:


> I bought a 2007 23krs and was going on our first trip last week. On the day before left, we had the bed out just checking things out and one of the supports fell off. On examining the latches I noticed the bottom bracket works fine because the load was pushing into the bracket but the force on the top backet was away from the trailer which places the load on the latch. The support that fell out had a bracket that the latch had bent out.
> 
> Of course we discovered this at 5pm the night before our departure so no way to get a new one. I switched it with one of the awning brackets which got us through the trip.
> 
> ...


Sorry to hear you had troubles. My left bracket seems to fit the same way you desribe. The bar does not seem to sit right in the bracket. Has anyone adjusted the lenght of the bars to have it seat properly?
Let us know if you find a new bracket.
crunchman


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Work the search function as there are several threads on the issue. Most people are going with through bolts to carry the load better as once the screws pull out of the back wall you can not really get them to hold. As for adjustment, they could have easily left Keystone incorrectly adjusted but also they can be handed. If the brackets are not EXACTLY the same height then the rails should be adjusted for each side and marked so they go back to the same location. If they were adjusted this way from the factory and you connected opposite to what they should be then the highest bracket will carry all the load and can bent and break the bracket.


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## Dave_CDN (Sep 13, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> Work the search function as there are several threads on the issue. Most people are going with through bolts to carry the load better as once the screws pull out of the back wall you can not really get them to hold. As for adjustment, they could have easily left Keystone incorrectly adjusted but also they can be handed. If the brackets are not EXACTLY the same height then the rails should be adjusted for each side and marked so they go back to the same location. If they were adjusted this way from the factory and you connected opposite to what they should be then the highest bracket will carry all the load and can bent and break the bracket.


When your checking the adjustment what do you use as a reference? I am thinking place the bars on the trailer with out pulling out the bed, measure from the top of the rail to the top of the bumper or some other reference? Also there is a right side and left side bracket on my unit, one is marked with a R stamped on the side of the bracket and the other is unstamped.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Two reference points.

First - Rails installed and the slide is unlocked and pulled out a inch or two. There should be contact with the rollers on the slide and the rails. Shim the rails, between the rail and the bolted on loop that goes into the bracket on the back of the trailer, shim as required to get equal contact

Second - Use a water level and check the rails to each other. This does not require the rails or trailer to be perfectly level but it helps. As you are just checking for consistent support for both rails. When checking with a water level, check first near the trailer. Say the left rail is 1 inch higher then the right rail due to the trailer not being level, you want to then check the rails at the tips and maintain the same 1 inch differential. If the difference between the two rails is not 1 " then you have to decide which is sloped too much or the wrong way. You do this by then checking each rail from the trailer to the tip. Pick one rail, say the left one and adjust the trailer tongue jack until the left rail is level. Now check the right rail and if it is not level it may need adjustment or you may need to adjust both a some towards each other. When you pull the slide out check the rollers for consistent load or pressure on the rails.

The end result is you want the slide to have even load on both rollers and make solid contact top to bottom on the inside seal then the slide is out.

I tried to think of an easy way to explain this but I seem to be at a loss on how to say it without using a 1000 more words. I hope this helps.


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## crunchman12002 (Jul 26, 2009)

CamperAndy said:


> Two reference points.
> 
> First - Rails installed and the slide is unlocked and pulled out a inch or two. There should be contact with the rollers on the slide and the rails. Shim the rails, between the rail and the bolted on loop that goes into the bracket on the back of the trailer, shim as required to get equal contact
> 
> ...


Thank you for the tips on adjusting the slide rails.
Mine were on backwards and needed adjusted to get even pressure on both wheels. It seems to slide better now.
crunchman


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