# Fridge No Longer Runs On Gas



## mjs518 (Oct 24, 2004)

I cant get my fridge to light the gas feed. I can hear it making the attempts when I go back and remove the outside cover.
It just keeps trying till the fault light comes on.
Did this for a couple hours thinking it might just have a spider web in the tube, but no luck. And if that is the case not sure how to go about clearing it.
Anyone have any advise before I take it to the dealer and get my wallet cleaned out.


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

My fridge quit working on propane right after memorial day weekend. The ignitor would click, light the flame, but then just keep on clicking as if the flame was not lit. It would cycle through this 3 times, and then shut down. I took it to an authorized domestic repair tech, and he diagnosed it to be the propane side of the control board. Mine is a dometic 2652. The board is 3 weeks back ordered, but the fridge works fine on electric at least, the tech said it is fine to run on the electric side, and all my upcoming trips have hookups thank heavens.

I am luckiky under warranty, as dometic is 2 yrs. Not sure what the cost would have been otherwise. I tend to think your trouble is either the board or the ignitor sensor, and unfortunately you will be out of pocket on this one.

I hope whatever it is it is a cheap fix for you. Does it work OK on 110 ?


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## mjs518 (Oct 24, 2004)

willingtonpaul said:


> My fridge quit working on propane right after memorial day weekend. The ignitor would click, light the flame, but then just keep on clicking as if the flame was not lit. It would cycle through this 3 times, and then shut down. I took it to an authorized domestic repair tech, and he diagnosed it to be the propane side of the control board. Mine is a dometic 2652. The board is 3 weeks back ordered, but the fridge works fine on electric at least, the tech said it is fine to run on the electric side, and all my upcoming trips have hookups thank heavens.
> 
> I am luckiky under warranty, as dometic is 2 yrs. Not sure what the cost would have been otherwise. I tend to think your trouble is either the board or the ignitor sensor, and unfortunately you will be out of pocket on this one.
> 
> I hope whatever it is it is a cheap fix for you. Does it work OK on 110 ?


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## mjs518 (Oct 24, 2004)

Yes, luckily the fridge works fine on 110 so we are only concerned with the traveling time between electrical access.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

Not wanting to state the obvious, but I'm assuming you have the propane turned on, and the stove lights?


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

mjs518 said:


> I cant get my fridge to light the gas feed. I can hear it making the attempts when I go back and remove the outside cover.
> It just keeps trying till the fault light comes on.
> Did this for a couple hours thinking it might just have a spider web in the tube, but no luck. And if that is the case not sure how to go about clearing it.
> Anyone have any advise before I take it to the dealer and get my wallet cleaned out.


For me to troubleshoot further, I would like to know how long you have had your trailer and how familiar you are with lighting the fridge when its working well.

But based on what I have to assess right now, I think aloud:

Removing the cover to listen is one thing but do you have a visual on the spark to gas process?

Have you tried manually lighting the refer gas from the outside (read: circumventing the spark/ignitor)?

Over years of road travels, the sparker/ignitor will sometimes get out of alignment with the gas feed tube.

IF you can get it to light and stay lit manually , turn off the fridge and start over checking the spark/ignitor alignment with the gas feed tube. Its usually a matter of moving the spark/ignitor a fraction of an inch in the correct direction.

*IF* the spark/ignitor is broken and won't hold its alignment, thats a big indication of problem #1. Cheap enough to repair as well but now you need to find the part (at most RV supply joints).

I have fixed my unit via the aligment correction and recently saved a new to trailering cousin in-law whose used unit had the misalignment problem since his maiden voyage (which I was in attendance on).

Hopefully its just a simple fix like I suggested.

Good luck.


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## 4RovingSongsters (Jun 22, 2011)

Seeing this in our NTU 28RSDS, also a 2652. In our case, I think it's the DSI module, because when I set it into gas mode and provided a spark from a spent butane wand, it lit right up and cooled down nicely. 'Course it won't keep running that way, but with 110 available....I shut off the gas at the nozzle.


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## Hoosier Camper (Sep 19, 2010)

Mine lit but kept on clicking because the flame wasn't able to get into the tube. Removed tube and found that mud dobbers had been in there. Cleaned and put back together, works fine now.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

4RovingSongsters said:


> Seeing this in our NTU 28RSDS, also a 2652. In our case, I think it's the DSI module, because when I set it into gas mode and provided a spark from a spent butane wand, it lit right up and cooled down nicely. 'Course it won't keep running that way, but with 110 available....I shut off the gas at the nozzle.


In a pinch you can make it stay lit by disconnecting the thermistor that controls the temperature in the fridge. When you disconnect it at the control board the controls go into limp mode and stays running 24/7. The only issue is you will turn the fridge into a freezer if you leave the door closed to long.


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