# 1/2 Vs 3/4 Ton



## WildRed (Jul 4, 2010)

I haven't been around here too awful long but long enough to know that, when it comes to tv's, bigger tends to be better. By this I mean mean tow capacity. I currently have a 27RSDS and am wanting to get a new tv. What is a good rule of thumb as being the point at which someone would cross the threshold of needing a 3/4 ton instead of a 1/2 ton? Have I crossed this threshold?

Thanks,
Aaron


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

WildRed said:


> I haven't been around here too awful long but long enough to know that, when it comes to tv's, bigger tends to be better. By this I mean mean tow capacity. I currently have a 27RSDS and am wanting to get a new tv. What is a good rule of thumb as being the point at which someone would cross the threshold of needing a 3/4 ton instead of a 1/2 ton? Have I crossed this threshold?
> 
> Thanks,
> Aaron


Whoa... that's a hard question to answer...and you'll get as many opinions as there is people here!

Let's start with the specs first. According to Keystone's website.. you're at 7550 for GVWR for the trailer... and 550 dry hitch weight.

Next you have to go to your tow vehicle and see what it is rated to tow, *and* what it's payload capacity is spec'd at. Then either weigh it alone...or see if it has a door jam sticker that says what the payload capacity is as it left the factory (which will be less than the spec).

See if you're under the tow capacity ..and as your TV is loaded with passengers and cargo... and the hitch weight of the trailer...make sure you're under payload capacity of the TV.

Soo... if you are over any of the capacities...then that's an easy decision...you need to upgrade the TV... either to a bigger 1/2 ton, into the 3/4 and 1 tons.

Personally... I think if you have a good 15% tow capacity left... as well as you are under you payload capacity... I think you are fine.

What I've found is that if you have a 1/2 ton CREW cab... you are probably really pushing the payload limit, or are over if you carry much gear and people at all in your TV.

I think 8K - 9K is a good range to start thinking about 3/4 ton or better.

As always... the driver is the most important safety equipment.


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## WYOCAMPER (Mar 28, 2007)

Great advice - I completely agree with luverofpeanuts. The only other thing to add is consider where you will be towing/camping. By that, I mean the terrain that you will be travelling. Flatlands, hills, mountains? If you are close to the limits of your tow vehicle and then hit some hills, it will not be a pleasant towing experience. Be sure your new TV has enough grunt to get you there and back safely.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

I forgot to add to too... One thing to keep in mind is that I think most safe drivers can manage their TV and trailer safely in normal driving circumstances even if they are flirting with the limits of the TV. I think has you analyze your setup, think of a deer jumping out at the last second... or think of an oncoming car crossing the center line..... as you take evasive maneuvers, do you feel like your TV will HELP you manage your load... or not?

While my wife was driving...and nearly 5 hours into our 6 hour trip home... a deer ran out in front of us as we were towing the Sydney (good stretch of road, safe speed 50 - 60.. 55 mph posted limit). Luckily, my wife cursed under her breath...but otherwise held her own in braking hard...but controlled, and luckily it was a on a straight stretch of road. You can say it was her keeping her wits about her that had most to do with staying safe and I would agree.... but having a large heavy vehicle in front of the trailer had to have helped in my opinion. We narrowly missed hitting the deer in the right front as it bounded into the woods.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

I had a 28RSDS. The move from the 1/2 ton to the 3/4 ton (well, okay, acutally 1 ton in my case) was NIGHT and DAY!!!








I would highly recommend a 3/4 ton for that length trailer. If you get a gasser with reasonable options, it's not that much more than a 1/2 ton. Of course if you have the money, the Diesel's torque is very nice too....


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Aaron,
I had an 06 27RSDS, and wish I still had it! GREAT TT!! I was towing it with a GMC Sierra extended cab V-8, and went to a Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins diesel crew cab. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! It was like the OB wasn't even behind me! Being able to stop, suddenly, was no longer an issue, and I was able to put it on "cruise", sit back and enjoy the ride, instead of white-knuckling and straining the engine, at times! If you're going to buy, I advise to go ahead and get a little extra, for safety, and in case you decide to upgrade, later. Sure beats trading every time you turn around, because we ALL know, it's a money-losing thing, usually!
Hope this helps!
Darlene


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## swanny (Oct 31, 2007)

IMO, buy the most you can afford. when it comes to rv's trucks and boats. someday you are going to want or need more.


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

swanny said:


> IMO, buy the most you can afford. when it comes to rv's trucks and boats. someday you are going to want or need more.


this is sage advice, and i agree 100%. don't just make it, go all the way till you're at the end of your budget.

also, the other thing to remember in addition to towing capacity and payload is rear axle weight rating. with a 1/2 ton, you can be under in towing capacity pretty easy, even way under, and under in the payload area. but the pin weight can put you over on the RAWR. you have room to spare, but not where you need it. weight distribution can only go so far.


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## GO WEST (May 25, 2009)

Half tons can do it, but 3/4 tons are better. Half tons get better mileage around town if you use the truck for your daily driver. If you can afford the bigger truck up front and the gas for it, get the bigger truck, no doubt. If you can afford to buy and maintain a diesel, better yet.


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## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

Bigger is better.


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## RWRiley (Oct 21, 2009)

Ditto on the Night and Day comment. I went from 1/2 ton to 3/4 ton on the same trailer (286FK), and could not believe how much more stable the 3/4 felt. Towing MPG is about the same as my 1/2 ton - solo the 1/2 ton was better. Both are gas motors (350 in the 1/2, 6.0L in the 3/4)


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## HodagRVer (Oct 12, 2009)

I learned the hard way that my 1/2 ton truck (2002 Avalanche) was pushing the limits. I got my first TT a 2009 210RS Outback and it pulled great around the flat lands in Wisconsin. We took our first cross country trip to Arizona and as soon as we hit the Mountains in Albuquerque the rear end failed. That trip cost us $4000 and a week stranded in Kansas City. I traded it the day after we got back for a used Ford F250 PSD and will never go back to a 1/2 ton for towing.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Your trailer specs are similar to mine, so I can speak with some experience. I started pulling our Outback with a 2003 1/2-ton 2WD Suburban, with the 5.3L V-8 gas engine and the 3:73 rear end. It got good gas mileage when not towing, but struggled mightily to pull the trailer up grades. I made the switch to a 3/4-ton Crew Cab pickup and the difference was amazing.

Several things to consider here:

1. GVWR of your tow-vehicle - remember that the GVWR is not a number that reflects the weight of the trailer you are pulling, but rather, the total amount of weight that the TV can carry on all four tires. That includes the weight of the TV, tongue weight, gear in the TV, and passengers. With most 1/2-tons, you've exceeded that number. (And consider that the 550# tongue weight advertised by Keystone does not reflect the loaded trailer, awning, propane tanks, battery, electric tongue jack, etc - that is above and beyond the advertised trailer/tongue weight.)

2. The transmissions in most 1/2-ton TVs are usually nothing more than car transmissions. The 3/4-ton TVs have much beefier components and the tranny is built to tow long distances.

3. The cooling systems on 3/4-ton trucks tend to be higher capacity, for engine, tranny, oil, etc. The 1/2-tons, not so much (and they may not have a tranny or engine oil cooler).

4. The brakes on the 3/4-ton truck are much more HD than on the 1/2-ton trucks.

5. The suspension on 3/4-ton trucks can handle the weight distribution and sway better and safer. If the trailer starts to get away from you, there is a better chance of a good outcome if your TV suspension can handle the forces. Most 1/2-ton truck suspensions are designed to ride (and handle) like cars.

So as you can see - there is much more to this decision than just "how much weight can my 1/2-ton truck pull." The question you need to ask yourself, considering your family's safety and emergencies that might arise, is, "Will my 1/2-ton consistently deliver me to my destination safely and reliably?" Only you can answer that question. And only you will live with the decision.

Just my opinion, and a few things to think about.

Mike


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## outbackmac (Feb 1, 2005)

diff between 2 trucks is the springs in the rear end period


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

outbackmac said:


> diff between 2 trucks is the springs in the rear end period


huh? I think Scoutr2 listed a variety of things that are different between the average 1/2 ton truck/SUV and 3/4 ton pickup truck. Your statement might be more true of the difference between a 3/4 ton pickup and a 1 ton pickup... but I think there a *many* things different between a 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

outbackmac said:


> diff between 2 trucks is the springs in the rear end period


This was true on a Dodge MegaCab, but that is about it. Otherwise, everything is different. I think the new dodges share a cab between levels, but even then the entire running gear was beefed up.


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## Camping Fan (Dec 18, 2005)

Scoutr2 said:


> Your trailer specs are similar to mine, so I can speak with some experience. I started pulling our Outback with a 2003 1/2-ton 2WD Suburban, with the 5.3L V-8 gas engine and the 3:73 rear end. It got good gas mileage when not towing, but struggled mightily to pull the trailer up grades. I made the switch to a 3/4-ton Crew Cab pickup and the difference was amazing.
> 
> Several things to consider here:
> 
> ...


Agree with all the above. With 1/2 ton trucks, you'll be over your GVWR, pay load capacity and/or rear axle rating long before you reach your tow rating or GCWR (gross combined weight rating; max. weight of truck, contents and trailer). Prior to buying my Outback I had a Jayco Kiwi 23D, a hybrid trailer, which I initially towed with a 1/2 ton Avalanche. Loaded weight of my 23D was 4,600 pounds with a 600 pound tongue weight. This was well within the Avalanche's tow rating, but when I weighed the combo on a truck scale I was over all the other ratings listed previously. It didn't take me long to trade in the 1/2 ton Avalanche on a 3/4 ton Avalanche. Then I was also good to go when I bought my 27RSDS, which weighs about 2,000 pounds more loaded than the 23D did. Since you're starting with the 27RSDS, I would definitely recommend going for the 3/4 ton truck, especially if you plan to haul gear and/or passengers in the truck while towing.


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