# 1/2 Ton Towing A 250Rs



## laxkid0002

I was wondering if any of you Outbackers are towing 250rs with their half ton pick ups. And if so what are your experience with them. I have a 2011 Ram 1500 Hemi Outdoorsman 3.92 rear end. I'm not so much worried about the motor as I am with my suspension and payload capacities. I just purchased a reese straight line 1200 lb trunnion bar with dual cam sway control. Any thoughts? Thanks Jon


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## Danodog

I tow the Outback 250rs with my 2008 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Double Cab. My truck is very capable pulling this trailer. I have weight distribution and anti-sway. The truck squatted a little when the trailer was attached, but the mechanic at the dealership told me that the profile of my truck was perfect. I averaged 10 miles per gallon from Fountain Valley, California to San Diego. I took a detour up a steep grade from the 15 freeway to the 52 East on the way home and I could gain speed going up hill for at least 2 to 3 miles before it crested. I was in bumper to bumper traffic on the way home and braking seemed natural. The dealer also installed a brake controller. The only complaint I had was when I hit some of the 405 South freeway. The concrete was buckled at the joints, causing the trailer and truck to "harmonic bounce" down the road. I had to slow under 50mph to reduce the reaction. Maybe airbags might help? I have the 5.7 liter and the 4.30 gears.


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## Justman

Been there, done that, got an upgrade. 

Seriously, believe the consensus when members have asked this question in the past is that you'll be fine as long as you don't expect high performance. You're going to need to expect to go slow, don't tow in overdrive, and take your time. Unless you've already done so, you will likely need to install an aftermarket transmission cooler. I'm not sure on the newer trucks, but on our Yukon XL, our transmission cooler was about as thick as two pencils stuck together---inadequate. Having a larger transmission cooler will extend the life of your transmission.


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## laxkid0002

Thanks Danodog and Justman. I have been looking into Total Load Control's Airbag set up for the ram 1500. I know the (Lack there) limits of my truck and I'm not expecting much. I don't care how slow or long it takes, I just want everything to be safe and legal. The last thing I want is an overloaded truck risking myself and others safety.....not to mention I could lose my CDL....and my job. When we decided to buy a new travel trailer we went to the dealer thinking the 210rs was the right fit. Then DW saw the layout of the 250rs......and thats what we ordered from Holmans. My Outdoorsman did come with Ram's "tow package" (dodge claims 10,050lbs towing) which includes the 3.92 rear end, tow mirrors, brake control unit, auxiliary trans cooler, as well as engine cooler. So we'll see how it goes. I'm sure an aftermarket cooler would be beneficial over the factory unit. I just bought the truck 6 months ago when we had our pop-up and wasn't thinking about buying a larger unit. The Outback will be delivered on tuesday, and that will give me time to install the hitch. I'd love to have the power of a diesel, but finding a pre 07 emissions-less rig is difficult to find in NY., their all usually rusted out or beat up. Using it as a daily driver is also an area of concern since I only drive 7 miles to work each way. thanks again!


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## Insomniak

Danodog said:


> I tow the Outback 250rs with my 2008 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Double Cab. My truck is very capable pulling this trailer. I have weight distribution and anti-sway. The truck squatted a little when the trailer was attached, but the mechanic at the dealership told me that the profile of my truck was perfect. I averaged 10 miles per gallon from Fountain Valley, California to San Diego. I took a detour up a steep grade from the 15 freeway to the 52 East on the way home and I could gain speed going up hill for at least 2 to 3 miles before it crested. I was in bumper to bumper traffic on the way home and braking seemed natural. The dealer also installed a brake controller. The only complaint I had was when I hit some of the 405 South freeway. The concrete was buckled at the joints, causing the trailer and truck to "harmonic bounce" down the road. I had to slow under 50mph to reduce the reaction. Maybe airbags might help? I have the 5.7 liter and the 4.30 gears.


One of the biggest complaints about the Tundra comes from Southern California drivers in areas where the freeway is built with sectional concrete. The expansion joints are too large and have buckled over time. They're spaced just right (or wrong) for the Tundra wheelbase, causing it to hop wildly in the 60-75mph range. The frame between the bed and the cab also flexes a lot, contributing to the bucking. Usually adding weight to the rear end causes the bucking to settle down quite a bit, but the interchange from the 405 South to the 5 South still used to give my Tundra fits. A couple folks here have added airbags, and it sounds like they have helped some, but not a great deal. They definitely help level the truck though, especially if you throw a lot of stuff in the bed for a camping trip.

Where do you plan to camp down there in SD? You will most likely get hit up by Colorado River Adventures via Mike Thompson for a free 3 night stay at one of their campgrounds. Just keep in mind that your free weekend also comes with a complimentary sales pitch! We joined in 2007 and spend a lot of time at KQ Ranch in Julian. Very kid friendly, and just beautiful. Maybe we'll see you around!


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## love2camp

laxkid0002 said:


> I tow the Outback 250rs with my 2008 Toyota Tundra 4x4 Double Cab. My truck is very capable pulling this trailer. I have weight distribution and anti-sway. The truck squatted a little when the trailer was attached, but the mechanic at the dealership told me that the profile of my truck was perfect. I averaged 10 miles per gallon from Fountain Valley, California to San Diego. I took a detour up a steep grade from the 15 freeway to the 52 East on the way home and I could gain speed going up hill for at least 2 to 3 miles before it crested. I was in bumper to bumper traffic on the way home and braking seemed natural. The dealer also installed a brake controller. The only complaint I had was when I hit some of the 405 South freeway. The concrete was buckled at the joints, causing the trailer and truck to "harmonic bounce" down the road. I had to slow under 50mph to reduce the reaction. Maybe airbags might help? I have the 5.7 liter and the 4.30 gears.


Is the truck porpoising like a dolphin swimming when going across the joints? How stiff are your weight dist bars? Try easing off one chain link on them and see if it helps. Common problem if bars are too stiff or on to hard.


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## jake's outback

Looks like that truck has plenty of power to pull that trailer! More than my 6 liter chevy!
Horsepower: 390 hp @ 5,600 rpm

Torque: 407 ft.-lb. @ 4,000 rpm

Looking on line I see that truck has a GVWR: 6,800 lbs. So the most the truck can weigh is that. So here's the Math...
Your truck weighs 5,356 lbs so that leaves you 1,544 Lbs. That trailer has a tongue weight of 640 lbs (doesn't include the propane or battery or any loading in the trailer) so now you are down to 904 lbs.

http://www.autoservi...an-crew-cab-4x4

Things to remember that add weight: add trailer hitch, fuel, other stuff in the Box, people in the cab...anything in the truck. What and how you load the trailer will effect the GVW. Remember 15-20% of the trailer weigh needs to be the total tongue weight.

Seems close but works, all depends on what you place in the truck.

Pat


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## Rrc&kyc

I also have a 08 tundra. same scenario, I decided on the 21 instead of 25. just because the truck can pull it, does not mean it should. I would say you need a 3/4 ton for the 250. If your staying local you will probably be o.k. but what's the fun of that!


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## Dub

Insomniak said:


> One of the biggest complaints about the Tundra comes from Southern California drivers in areas where the freeway is built with sectional concrete. The expansion joints are too large and have buckled over time. They're spaced just right (or wrong) for the Tundra wheelbase, causing it to hop wildly in the 60-75mph range. The frame between the bed and the cab also flexes a lot, contributing to the bucking. Usually adding weight to the rear end causes the bucking to settle down quite a bit, but the interchange from the 405 South to the 5 South still used to give my Tundra fits. A couple folks here have added airbags, and it sounds like they have helped some, but not a great deal. They definitely help level the truck though, especially if you throw a lot of stuff in the bed for a camping trip.
> 
> Where do you plan to camp down there in SD? You will most likely get hit up by Colorado River Adventures via Mike Thompson for a free 3 night stay at one of their campgrounds. Just keep in mind that your free weekend also comes with a complimentary sales pitch! We joined in 2007 and spend a lot of time at KQ Ranch in Julian. Very kid friendly, and just beautiful. Maybe we'll see you around!


They have a TSB for the bucking now, they add some rubber spacers to the bottom of the cab or something like that...there's one patch of "test" concrete in the city that makes mine vibrate. I have airbags, maybe that's why it doesn't buck. Definitely annoying and is never a problem with something in the bed or towing.


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## Bob Landry

No one including the OP has mentioned WD setup and that's where it all starts. When hitched, the front end height should be returned to the unhitched height, or close to it, as determined by your truck manual. You can check it on a scale, or by measuring fender height. Once that's done, then the sway control can be addresses. Disregard comments you get such as feels good, looks level to me, try a different link, etc. Do it by the book. Your safety and the longevity of your trucks tires and front suspension components depend on it.


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## Insomniak

Dub said:


> One of the biggest complaints about the Tundra comes from Southern California drivers in areas where the freeway is built with sectional concrete. The expansion joints are too large and have buckled over time. They're spaced just right (or wrong) for the Tundra wheelbase, causing it to hop wildly in the 60-75mph range. The frame between the bed and the cab also flexes a lot, contributing to the bucking. Usually adding weight to the rear end causes the bucking to settle down quite a bit, but the interchange from the 405 South to the 5 South still used to give my Tundra fits. A couple folks here have added airbags, and it sounds like they have helped some, but not a great deal. They definitely help level the truck though, especially if you throw a lot of stuff in the bed for a camping trip.
> 
> Where do you plan to camp down there in SD? You will most likely get hit up by Colorado River Adventures via Mike Thompson for a free 3 night stay at one of their campgrounds. Just keep in mind that your free weekend also comes with a complimentary sales pitch! We joined in 2007 and spend a lot of time at KQ Ranch in Julian. Very kid friendly, and just beautiful. Maybe we'll see you around!


They have a TSB for the bucking now, they add some rubber spacers to the bottom of the cab or something like that...there's one patch of "test" concrete in the city that makes mine vibrate. I have airbags, maybe that's why it doesn't buck. Definitely annoying and is never a problem with something in the bed or towing.
[/quote]
Good to know Toyota is finally addressing the problem. When I had my Tundra in the shop a few months back (before I traded it in for the Ram), the service person could only roll her eyes and cross her fingers when I asked her if the bed bounce issue had ever been resolved. The Tundra is definitely a good puller and I'm a little surprised that Danodog has bouncing with weight on the rear end. Could be a WD adjustment issue, or it could be one of those bad sections of freeway where nothing will stop the Tundra from bucking like a rodeo horse.


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## Danodog

Insomniak said:


> One of the biggest complaints about the Tundra comes from Southern California drivers in areas where the freeway is built with sectional concrete. The expansion joints are too large and have buckled over time. They're spaced just right (or wrong) for the Tundra wheelbase, causing it to hop wildly in the 60-75mph range. The frame between the bed and the cab also flexes a lot, contributing to the bucking. Usually adding weight to the rear end causes the bucking to settle down quite a bit, but the interchange from the 405 South to the 5 South still used to give my Tundra fits. A couple folks here have added airbags, and it sounds like they have helped some, but not a great deal. They definitely help level the truck though, especially if you throw a lot of stuff in the bed for a camping trip.
> 
> Where do you plan to camp down there in SD? You will most likely get hit up by Colorado River Adventures via Mike Thompson for a free 3 night stay at one of their campgrounds. Just keep in mind that your free weekend also comes with a complimentary sales pitch! We joined in 2007 and spend a lot of time at KQ Ranch in Julian. Very kid friendly, and just beautiful. Maybe we'll see you around!


They have a TSB for the bucking now, they add some rubber spacers to the bottom of the cab or something like that...there's one patch of "test" concrete in the city that makes mine vibrate. I have airbags, maybe that's why it doesn't buck. Definitely annoying and is never a problem with something in the bed or towing.
[/quote]
Good to know Toyota is finally addressing the problem. When I had my Tundra in the shop a few months back (before I traded it in for the Ram), the service person could only roll her eyes and cross her fingers when I asked her if the bed bounce issue had ever been resolved. The Tundra is definitely a good puller and I'm a little surprised that Danodog has bouncing with weight on the rear end. Could be a WD adjustment issue, or it could be one of those bad sections of freeway where nothing will stop the Tundra from bucking like a rodeo horse.
[/quote]

It was definitely one of those bad sections for approximately 1 mile. The rest of the trip was smooth as glass.


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## Insomniak

Sorry to hijack the thread! I don't think most 1/2 ton trucks out there would have any problem pulling a 250RS. With a good WD hitch and anti-sway, folks are pulling bigger trailers without issue. The usual 1/2 ton limitations will come into play, especially with the Tundra - pushing the limits of payload, GVWR and GCVWR.

I'm a little annoyed that I didn't know about the TSB from Toyota regarding the "bed bounce" problem. Looks like it was issued in September of 2010 and seems to have worked very well. I just did about an hour's worth of reading, and Tundra owners are generally ecstatic with the results. Even if they are out of warranty, the new cab mounts only cost a couple hundred bucks. Figures my dealer didn't know about the fix - that's one reason they're no longer my dealer!


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## W.E.BGood

I tow an '11 250RS with an '08 Tundra SR5 5.7L double cab 4X4 with tow package (rear diff. listed at 4.10), 10K Equalizer, and AirLift 5000 air bags with remote on-board pump control. Absolutely comfortable and stable, enough power even for extended uphill climbs, and even the wife is confident in driving it on 2-lane highways (which really surprised me to start with). It's just the wife and I and a small dog, maybe 300 lbs. bed cargo, and a full fresh water tank everytime we leave from home.
If I were to get something notably bigger/heavier (which ain't gonna happen), I feel that would be pushing it.

As a special aside for Insomniak, I put the airbags on for 2 reasons:
#1. The "sectioned concrete" roads as mentioned can be very problematic here in the midwest, particularly with the temperature extremes, and I'd get the porpoising/bucking effect and have to slow to around 45-50 at times (and yes, my WD set-up is correctly dialed-in). For mine it only takes about 25-30 lbs psi to cure it, and the overall "loaded" ride is MUCH improved.
#2. The street in front of our house has a very high center crown, shallow gutters, and the first 10 feet of our driveway approach is an incline. It would really put the stress on the WD setup trying to back in, and without the bars the bottom tip of the hitch would scrape; now I just have the bars pulled off, put 30 psi in the bags and have no problem at all. The same applies to trying to maneuver into tight or uneven-approach camp sites. AND, it's nice to not have to put the bars in when doing short hauls around town.

OTOH, the "unloaded" ride around town in the Tundra is a bit bouncier/"jittery", but the highway ride is still great.

Regards, BGood


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## bbwb

I need to chime in here...I have a 23rs that is pulled with an '06 GMC Ext Cab, 6.5 box, 4wd. This truck is now equipped with 4.10 gears, 5.3 aluminum block (originally had 3.42 gears that would not pull the camper). When loaded with wood and family my truck runs out of wind on any type of grade. I have to build up speed to make it over the hill without too much loss of speed. I do not tow with over drive engaged. Overall, I do not have any trouble with the weight or sway, just asthmatic on any type of hill or bucking a wind. I believe that the big issue is that the third gear of the truck is too high. Maybe I am expecting too much but this sure makes me think about a 3/4 ton on the next truck.
bbwb


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## Rooster

I have an '09 1500 SLT Crew with the 3.92 rear end and it pulls fine. I put on a set of Air Lift 1000 bags just to even it out a bit and help with any bounce that may occur and I can keep up with traffic fairly easily. I wouldn't worry yourself too much about the power but adding the airbags makes a difference for sure. They took me about an hour to install the basic setup and if I ever think I've got a few hundred bucks laying around, I'll add a compressor then. For now I just keep one of the little portable emergency compressors to touch up the pressure if it needs it and I'm away from home.


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## Collinsfam_WY

I think that any newer 1/2 ton truck properly outfitted with the right powertrain and tow package will handle a 250RS, no problem.

-CC


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## maxpat82

Have no problem towing my 07 23KRS(7000lbs loaded ..scale) with my 07 F150 fx2 5,4L 3,55 axle tow package and Edge programmer to help the transmission.
I have a 3/5 drop and air helper bag(cause of the drop don't want to take a chance of bending an axle) on the truck with 750lbs WD bar + friction sway bar
It tow better with the drop and air bag then before whitout bag.

O/D: OFF.
the transmission doesn't heat at all while cruising and almost nothing while in city.

loosing speed on a hill..I don't care going down to 55 on a steep hill...vans lose speed too...I'm not the only one on the road loosing speed on hill.
If I step on it, it climb no problem.

but: I wouldn't go much heavier then this though.(I do kinda long trip...300miles one way)


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## NFARCH

I have a 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 CC with 3.92's and tow a 2013 230RS. My truck has no problem towing it. I have monitored the gauges while towing and the readings went up but nothing to be concerned with. I use the Equalizer hitch with 10000 lb bars. I will have to tweak my setup a little as there is a little sag. I have had the water tanks full and the quad loaded. Could tell it was heavier but truck towed it fine. There is the odd bounce while towing but does not occur all the time. I put a set of Air Lift 1000 airbags as another member did to help level the truck a little better and stop the odd bounce while towing. I haven't had chance to tow with the air bags yet but I will give a future update.


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## laxkid0002

Thanks everyone. I got a chance to tow my Outback 250 this past weekend (short trip 20 miles) and did experience what i would like to believe more than normal sway. Perhaps my WDH isn't dialed in as it should be. But as far as power and braking there won't be any issues with this trailer.


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## OutbackKampers

I'm towing my Outback 312BH with a 2010 Tundra with no problems. Happy Camping!


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## duggy

laxkid0002 said:


> Thanks everyone. I got a chance to tow my Outback 250 this past weekend (short trip 20 miles) and did experience what i would like to believe more than normal sway. Perhaps my WDH isn't dialed in as it should be. But as far as power and braking there won't be any issues with this trailer.


Your WDH may well need to be dialed in, but there may be other causes for the sway as well. If you have inadequate tongue weight, that will contribute to sway. Either get to a scale, and make sure you have 10% to 15% tongue weight (ideally about 13%), or try shifting some weight forward, and see if that helps. If you were running with a full fresh water tank, try towing the trailer with the tank empty, as it's behind the axles, and takes weight off the tongue when full. Another contributor to sway can be the attitude of the trailer. Make sure the trailer isn't tongue high. Get it level, or slightly tongue low.


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## Collinsfam_WY

laxkid0002 said:


> Thanks everyone. I got a chance to tow my Outback 250 this past weekend (short trip 20 miles) and did experience what i would like to believe more than normal sway. Perhaps my WDH isn't dialed in as it should be. But as far as power and braking there won't be any issues with this trailer.


If your dealer setup the hitch, chances are - it is wrong. I know from experience. Once I setup my hitch per the mfg. instructions, sway completely disappeared. Good luck with your camper!!!

-CC


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## Terry

OutbackKampers said:


> I'm towing my Outback 312BH with a 2010 Tundra with no problems. Happy Camping!


Glad to see others are towing 9000 GVWR trailers with current 1/2 tons. I will soon be towing a 277RL (also on the 9000 lb. frame with my 2011 Silverado 1/2 ton. Equipted with the 6.2L and Max package and Rated for a GCWR of 16000 should be no problem.


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## CamperKev

Terry said:


> I'm towing my Outback 312BH with a 2010 Tundra with no problems. Happy Camping!


Glad to see others are towing 9000 GVWR trailers with current 1/2 tons. I will soon be towing a 277RL (also on the 9000 lb. frame with my 2011 Silverado 1/2 ton. Equipted with the 6.2L and Max package and Rated for a GCWR of 16000 should be no problem.
[/quote] Most if not all of the newer 1/2 tons have plenty of power to pull these trailers. It's the payload #'s on the trucks that are the weak link. My trailer has a gvwr of 8200lbs and my trucks max tow rating is 11,200 lbs and gvwr is 7700 lbs and gcwr is 17,100lbs. So you would think it would be no problem with my trailer. With my trailer loaded ready to camp it weighed 7400 lbs. My truck with the trailer hitched up weighed 7520lbs. That only leaves me a 180lb cushion and i'm nowhere near my max tows rating of 11,200lbs!!


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## SLO250RS

collinsfam_tx said:


> Thanks everyone. I got a chance to tow my Outback 250 this past weekend (short trip 20 miles) and did experience what i would like to believe more than normal sway. Perhaps my WDH isn't dialed in as it should be. But as far as power and braking there won't be any issues with this trailer.


If your dealer setup the hitch, chances are - it is wrong. I know from experience. Once I setup my hitch per the mfg. instructions, sway completely disappeared. Good luck with your camper!!!

-CC
[/quote]
As he said the wdh hitch set-up is way off.When you readjust make sure the trailer and truck are loaded as you would be going camping,and take your time setting it up it will be worth it in the end.Good Luck


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