# Out Camping- Fridge Dead



## illinoisboy

I have a 23rs with Dometic RM2652 fridge recall has been performed. No lights on front of fridge and no cooling. I checked the power to the plug in rear and reads 120 volts. I checked the power to the board and reads 120 volts AC and the 12 volt block is getting power from the battery. I get no power at the eyebrow controls on front of fridge when checked for 12 volt. I assumed it was the board, so I ran to get a new one, replaced the old board and voila!- still no power to the lights on the eyebrow front controls . Any advice appreciated- our food is spoiling fast. It ran fine for one camping trip after the recall, but now is dead.

Is there a lockout I don't know about?

Can it be run direct from 120ac and bypass the board?

Thanks


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## CamperAndy

The recall does nothing the the controls or power. It is just some extra sheet metal shielding.

You can not run the fridge on 120 vac only. Without control lights I would suspect something is unplugged. Have you tried it on Gas only?


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## jdpm

I don't know if you have seen this or if it will help, but this is all I can offer. Hopefully it will help. Good luck. jdpm

http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/1252service.pdf


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## illinoisboy

CamperAndy said:


> The recall does nothing the the controls or power. It is just some extra sheet metal shielding.
> 
> You can not run the fridge on 120 vac only. Without control lights I would suspect something is unplugged. Have you tried it on Gas only?


not sure how to do that.


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## CamperAndy

Look at the control panel. The buttons will either be in or out, in being on and auto for the left and right buttons respectively. Place both buttons in the in position and pull the shore power. The fridge if it is working will try to operate on gas.

Also the link that jdpm posted is a complete troubleshooting guide to the fridge and is a very good read. Good luck.


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## rock hill

make sure you have propane, and that the tanks are on.


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## Scoutr2

CamperAndy said:


> The recall does nothing the the controls or power. It is just some extra sheet metal shielding.
> 
> You can not run the fridge on 120 vac only. Without control lights I would suspect something is unplugged. Have you tried it on Gas only?


There is a sensor on the flue that is supposed to detect if the temperature is too high, which would indicate a fire or a dangerous overheating problem. It comes with the recall kit and should have been installed at the same time as the extra sheet metal that Andy was talking about. But if yours already had a sensor there (my 2007 did), then they just use the one that's there and don't install the new one. It is possible that while installing the new sheet metal that the tech may have cut the insulation on one of the sensor wires and the board is getting a false signal that there is an overtemp situation, which will shut down your fridge. Or one of the wires could have come loose during kit install.

Take a close look there. Also, there should be a small glass fuse on one of the boards (like the old-fashioned auto fuses). If that fuse goes, so does your cooling.

Check, too that the flue is not blocked by a wasp nest (which could create an overtemp, if the flue cannot breathe).

Other than that - follow the troubleshooting guide. But if you cannot get it to work after that, you'll have to bite the bullet and go see a dealer. In the mean time, I'd transfer all my perishables to an ice-chest and get a bag of ice.

Hope you get it worked out. Been there and done that with our pop-up (the door was partially open when we cranked it down - it won't keep food cool that way!), and had to toss about 5 days worth of food. Not fun!

Mike


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## BoaterDan

Interesting post.

There are several fuses at play. Probably one on the main panel for the AC power to the fridge, and probably one there for the circuit board. There are also a couple on the circuitry at the fridge itself. I don't know if they're on the board you replaced. I caused a short and blew one of them when hooking up my exhaust fans, and until it was replaced the whole fridge appeared dead just as you describe.

I'm assuming light inside the fridge does NOT come on with the outside switches in the on position. On the small chance that it does, that would point you in a very unique direction I would think.

On a side note, I've been having problems with my fridge lighting on gas after the recall service. Once it gets going (had to take the thing half apart and use a lighter last time) everything works fine. If it is because of the recall, I'm guessing the tech somehow messed with the ignitor or flame sensor.


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## Scoutr2

BoaterDan said:


> Interesting post.
> 
> There are several fuses at play. Probably one on the main panel for the AC power to the fridge, and probably one there for the circuit board. There are also a couple on the circuitry at the fridge itself. I don't know if they're on the board you replaced. I caused a short and blew one of them when hooking up my exhaust fans, and until it was replaced the whole fridge appeared dead just as you describe.
> 
> I'm assuming light inside the fridge does NOT come on with the outside switches in the on position. On the small chance that it does, that would point you in a very unique direction I would think.
> 
> On a side note, I've been having problems with my fridge lighting on gas after the recall service. Once it gets going (had to take the thing half apart and use a lighter last time) everything works fine. If it is because of the recall, I'm guessing the tech somehow messed with the ignitor or flame sensor.


More good ideas! Ain't this site great!? (And I'm sure illinoisboy would think it was REALLY great, if we solve his problem!)

Where at in Illinois? I'm near Peoria.

Mike


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## illinoisboy

Scoutr2 said:


> Interesting post.
> 
> There are several fuses at play. Probably one on the main panel for the AC power to the fridge, and probably one there for the circuit board. There are also a couple on the circuitry at the fridge itself. I don't know if they're on the board you replaced. I caused a short and blew one of them when hooking up my exhaust fans, and until it was replaced the whole fridge appeared dead just as you describe.
> 
> I'm assuming light inside the fridge does NOT come on with the outside switches in the on position. On the small chance that it does, that would point you in a very unique direction I would think.
> 
> On a side note, I've been having problems with my fridge lighting on gas after the recall service. Once it gets going (had to take the thing half apart and use a lighter last time) everything works fine. If it is because of the recall, I'm guessing the tech somehow messed with the ignitor or flame sensor.


More good ideas! Ain't this site great!? (And I'm sure illinoisboy would think it was REALLY great, if we solve his problem!)

Where at in Illinois? I'm near Peoria.

Mike
[/quote]

north of you about 60 miles near the Quad Cities. So far- I have been unable to get the fridge to work on LP or AC. Power gets to the eyebrow board, so I'm thinking the eyebrow board is bad. Got a service appointment, but they are backed up 2 weeks, so I will play with it a little more. Lost the food,as we didn't have a big enough cooler, but oh well- stuff happens. Thanks to everyone on the board that responded and I will post if ZI find the so9lution.


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## Rocky25

BoaterDan said:


> Interesting post.
> 
> There are several fuses at play. Probably one on the main panel for the AC power to the fridge, and probably one there for the circuit board. There are also a couple on the circuitry at the fridge itself. I don't know if they're on the board you replaced. I caused a short and blew one of them when hooking up my exhaust fans, and until it was replaced the whole fridge appeared dead just as you describe.
> 
> I'm assuming light inside the fridge does NOT come on with the outside switches in the on position. On the small chance that it does, that would point you in a very unique direction I would think.
> 
> On a side note, I've been having problems with my fridge lighting on gas after the recall service. Once it gets going (had to take the thing half apart and use a lighter last time) everything works fine. If it is because of the recall, I'm guessing the tech somehow messed with the ignitor or flame sensor.


Ditto here on the gas operation. Hard to get it going, once I do it is fine.... Must be a female fridge!


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## BoaterDan

Rocky25 said:


> Ditto here on the gas operation. Hard to get it going, once I do it is fine.... Must be a female fridge!


Oh man that's good!


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## ronmhagen

If you have no lights at the eyebrow, there is a voltage problem somewhere. You mentioned that you had 12 volts DC at the block where it comes in. Confirm again that you do.

Next:

With your meter, leave the negative test lead on the negative side of the block (Right side). Now follow the positive wire from the back side of the block. With recall kit installed it will go to the overheat sensor that Mike mentioned. Then to a thermal fuse that is placed under the flue assembly by the burner as part of the recall kit. Then follow this wire to the board. If either one of those are bad, you will lose your 12 volt. Place your positive test lead on the wire where it attaches to the board. Do you still have 12 volts DC? This will confirm that you have power to the board.

Next:

You have a six pin connection in the upper left hand corner of your board as pictured on the bryantrv link somebody gave you. (Ignore those pal tester notes, even Dometic recommends you use those as boat anchors now.) These wires supply power up to the eyebrow controls. You must confirm 12 volts DC is coming out of the lower board and being sent to the eyebrow board.

Dometic:

Red wire = ground
Orange wire = DC voltage to the eyebrow board.
Black wire = DC voltage down for electric operation.
Green wire = DC voltage down for propane operation.
Brown wire = Communication between the boards.
Blue wire = Factory testing wire for gas. Not to be used again.

Now with this information you can place your negative test lead on the pin on the board that goes into the red wire and your positive test lead on the board pin that feeds the orange wire. Do you have 12 volts DC? If yes it is being sent up to the eyebrow.

Next:

Check the red and orange wire where it plugs into the upper board for 12 volts DC. This will confirm that the wires are good that supply the upper board and it is being supplied with juice.

Since you have no lights at the upper board. Most likely you will have troubleshooted your problem by this point.

If you have power to that point, the board may be bad. You could check the Green and Red wires or Black and Red wires coming out of the upper board sending voltage back to the lower board from this point if you had power up there.

As far as the two members that are having trouble lighting on propane. First thing to do is make sure the burner assembly is clean and blown out for spider webs or debris. Other than that you need a 3/16" gap on the igniter. Should light immediately. Need more info to provide further guidance.


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