# Norco Bal Accu-Slide



## Todd&Regan

Thought I'd open up a thread on the Norco BAL accu-slide seeing that there are quite a few members now with 2014 Outbacks. For those who were not aware, Outbacks now have Norco BAL accu-slide slide outs, not the Lippert through-frame slide out. To quickly sum how it works, there is an electric motor mounted to the inside wall just above the slide out. There is a shaft with two gears attached to the motor. The gears drive two chains with two cables attached to both ends of the chain. One set of cables pulls the slide out, the other set pulls the slide in. Thus, four cables pulling the slide in, and four pulling the slide out. The cables run through pulleys that are mounted to the wall (slide out trim hides the motor, cables, and pulleys). Seems like an efficient design with few moving parts.

I noticed on the rear slide to my 301BQ that the top two cables (exposed when the slide is extended) were sagging. I pulled up the accu-slide manual on norco's website and read it top to bottom. I tightened the cables so they weren't sagging. The accu-slide manual stated that cables should have some slack, but not be sagging. Some time after that, I noticed the top cables on the front slide were sagging also. Tightened those cables as well, but noticed a couple popping noises when I retracted the slide. I didn't have time to investigate what was making that noise, but I will check it out soon. The trick to the accu-slide is to adjust the cables to they aren't too loose, nor too tight. This should have been done at the factory. I figure I won't be the only one with this issue, that's why I'm posting. Yes I could've taken it back to the dealer and had them adjust the cables under warranty, but I hesitate to take my camper to sit at the dealer for 2 or 3 weeks for something I can do myself.


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## RobNKY

This is a great post Todd. Thanks for starting this.

I will definitely check for sagging cables on our new 312BH when I get over to the storage unit next. I'll also read the materials on the Accu Slide operation.

One thing I noticed on our slides when we were leaving the RV park on Wednesday. The motor stopped three times before the slide was all the way in. If I released the button for 5-10 seconds and pushed it again, it would continue. Eventually, the slide came in all the way, but it took 3 rounds. It wasn't really an inconvenience, but just hope it is not a sign of a looming problem. At the time, we had already unplugged from shore power, so not sure if this had anything to do with it.

Rob


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## Eaglescout5

Great post I printed of the manual just to have in case I need to adjust something.


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## Todd&Regan

I inspected my slide-outs further today. Checked the cables, pulleys, and chains on both slide-outs. I also checked for a proper seal when the slides where both fully extended and retracted. Everything looks good! I ran the slides in and out a couple times and everything sounded to be operating smoothly.


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## joeymac

I have had to have my slide motor replaced under warranty. Be aware that there are plastic gears inside the "transmission" part of the motor. Mine locked up and I was unable to move the slide in or out. The manual override wouldn't do anything either. (Tried it several times, it was locked up) Had to gently push on the slide to get it to retract so I could take it back to the dealer. Really frustrating that they would make the gears out of plastic, instead of metal.


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## Todd&Regan

joeymac said:


> I have had to have my slide motor replaced under warranty. Be aware that there are plastic gears inside the "transmission" part of the motor. Mine locked up and I was unable to move the slide in or out. The manual override wouldn't do anything either. (Tried it several times, it was locked up) Had to gently push on the slide to get it to retract so I could take it back to the dealer. Really frustrating that they would make the gears out of plastic, instead of metal.


Is your Outback equipped with the Norco or Lippert slides? If your Outback has the brown front cap and bright white side walls, it will have the Lippert slides. If your Outback has the "new" colors (black front cap and cream or light tan side walls) it will have the Norco slide. With the Norco slides you will see 4 exposed cables when the slide is extended. The Lippert slides don't operate with cables.


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## joeymac

Todd&Regan said:


> I have had to have my slide motor replaced under warranty. Be aware that there are plastic gears inside the "transmission" part of the motor. Mine locked up and I was unable to move the slide in or out. The manual override wouldn't do anything either. (Tried it several times, it was locked up) Had to gently push on the slide to get it to retract so I could take it back to the dealer. Really frustrating that they would make the gears out of plastic, instead of metal.


Is your Outback equipped with the Norco or Lippert slides? If your Outback has the brown front cap and bright white side walls, it will have the Lippert slides. If your Outback has the "new" colors (black front cap and cream or light tan side walls) it will have the Norco slide. With the Norco slides you will see 4 exposed cables when the slide is extended. The Lippert slides don't operate with cables.
[/quote]

It actually has both. The main slide is the traditional frame slide, and the kitchen slide has the BAL Accu-Slide. I got an early 2014 edition, most likely before they made the complete changeover.


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## Todd&Regan

joeymac said:


> It actually has both. The main slide is the traditional frame slide, and the kitchen slide has the BAL Accu-Slide. I got an early 2014 edition, most likely before they made the complete changeover.


I see. Wonder what caused the issue with your motor. Cables too tight? The Norco manual does caution against adusting the cables too tight, which would lead to more stress on the motor.


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## Kevin and Sheri

Todd,

I have a 2014 250RS. My rear slide has exposed cables and appears to be the NORCO type as you describe. Since purchasing last Oct, we've done about 15 trips with no slide out issues. That streak ended a couple weeks ago when I was getting ready for our Death Valley Thanksgiving trip. The rear slide extended about a foot and then started buzzing....loud buzzing. Couldn't get the slide to retract or extend at all. Had my wife pulsed the slide button and I gently pushed the slide out. Had to do the same thing to get it back in. When it was retracting, it sounded like something was causing the mechanism to slip. Glad I got the extended warranty. I had a mobile RV Tech come out to my house. The slide motor had plenty of torque. He removed the actuator box and that's when I saw the plastic gears...wow. Looks like the actuator was defective. Seems odd the slide would have a problem as I've only owned trailer a little over a year. In any case, trailer is down until part is ordered, installed and slide cables re-connected. What a pain.

Kevin


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## Todd&Regan

That's unfortunate. Your not the only one who has had an issue with the plastic gears. So far both of my slides have worked well. I'll keep my fingers crossed that continues.

Todd


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## MiltonDan

I have this slide system on my 2014 298RE. Not impressed with the quality of the system. The main living/dining slide pulley assembly ripped from the wall after the screws sheared off. I'm not the only one that has had. This issue either.


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## joeymac

Just called Norco today as the gearbox on my kitchen slide went out again. The original one that came from the factory lasted 5 months, and this second one lasted 18 months. They are sending me a replacement one free of charge, as I am going to install it due to our family vacation to Disney next week. Hopefully this next one will last longer....Really frustrated with the quality of this gearbox....They should last longer than they have.


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## Mike M

Thanks Todd for starting this post. I'm hoping that I don't have any of these problems with my slide cable system after reading these posts but I've got this same system on my camper - 2014 310TB so I know where to come for ideas if anything comes up.

Only problem I've had so far is the bedroom slide would not retract the first time I extended it. Pressed the switch and nothing happened. No noise or grinding, nothing. So I checked the fuse panel first, then the switch, then got the manuals that came with the trailer. Not much help. Then I went online and downloaded a PDF of the slide-out manual. Figured out where the motor was, found the drill attachment with my hand but could not get it out so I had to take the face board off the slide so I could get a better look. Then I found the problem. During install the person that wired up the motor did not route the wires properly and the "hot" wire got mixed up in the cable adjustment and it was pulled loose. Funny how it worked fine at the dealer. And I was going to take it back to the dealer (100 miles away) as soon as I got the slide back in but turns out all I had to do was remove the wire connectors, reroute the wires, and install new connectors and it's been working fine ever since.
For anyone that needs to know, the drill attachments to manually work the slide in case of a motor failure (on my trailer) were attached to the slide motors with electrical tape. One on each slide-out motor. I removed the one from the bedroom slide and put it in a drawer in case I need it again. Left the other one where it was, in case I loose the one in the drawer (don't ask).

Anyway, Happy Trails!


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## TJM

Todd&Regan said:


> Thought I'd open up a thread on the Norco BAL accu-slide seeing that there are quite a few members now with 2014 Outbacks. For those who were not aware, Outbacks now have Norco BAL accu-slide slide outs, not the Lippert through-frame slide out. To quickly sum how it works, there is an electric motor mounted to the inside wall just above the slide out. There is a shaft with two gears attached to the motor. The gears drive two chains with two cables attached to both ends of the chain. One set of cables pulls the slide out, the other set pulls the slide in. Thus, four cables pulling the slide in, and four pulling the slide out. The cables run through pulleys that are mounted to the wall (slide out trim hides the motor, cables, and pulleys). Seems like an efficient design with few moving parts.
> 
> I noticed on the rear slide to my 301BQ that the top two cables (exposed when the slide is extended) were sagging. I pulled up the accu-slide manual on norco's website and read it top to bottom. I tightened the cables so they weren't sagging. The accu-slide manual stated that cables should have some slack, but not be sagging. Some time after that, I noticed the top cables on the front slide were sagging also. Tightened those cables as well, but noticed a couple popping noises when I retracted the slide. I didn't have time to investigate what was making that noise, but I will check it out soon. The trick to the accu-slide is to adjust the cables to they aren't too loose, nor too tight. This should have been done at the factory. I figure I won't be the only one with this issue, that's why I'm posting. Yes I could've taken it back to the dealer and had them adjust the cables under warranty, but I hesitate to take my camper to sit at the dealer for 2 or 3 weeks for something I can do myself.


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## TJM

HELLO!

I also have a brand new 2014 Outback with the Accu-Cable Slide system and read with interest your comments. I have loaded into my computer all of the material and videos provided by Accu-Slide on their system and common problems they have with them.

Your 'Popping Noise' is an indicator of a serious problem that is developing. The most common failure according to Accu-Slide is the tension of the cables being out of Specs. This is why they advise everyone to be careful on the adjustment mode. If your slide was not popping before and was working, your adjustment may have created issues.

Another common failure creating popping sounds is the brackets which guide the cables into the wall are often not in EXACT ALIGNMENT with the cable. In other words, the cable is either being pulled in or out at an slight down/up angle instead of straight through front to back. The cable itself moves inside a metal slot within the bracket. If not in perfect alignment, this causes the cable to bind as it leaves or enters.

Further, the cable begins to splinter as it is rubbing against the metal bracket while moving. The cable then fails and breaks.

The cable and brackets to the side of your slide can only be viewed by removing paneling that is covering it. However, you CAN download excellent videos on the Accu-Slide system via You-Tube. You will see exactly what I am referring to. The videos also tell you how to install new cables and much more.

I am noting another issue recently and that is the plastic gears inside the motor which can fail. That would not be a cause of the popping sound, however. The popping sound is being created as something is 'binding' and grabbing as you move the slide.

Take care,

John
Northwest RV'er
August 2015


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## TJM

*TO ACCU-SLIDE OWNERS:*

*Hello, Everyone! *

I have read nearly all of the Accu-Slide comments in the Forum thus far. I have a 2014 Keystone Outback 298RE and have done everything possible to research and prepare for any failure of my system. I did find some assistance as well as defects and issues on my trailer that I would like to post below that may help each of you:

* The Accu-Slide system has outstanding videos that can help you understand exactly what the system does and how it operates. Find them on *YOU-TUBE* and make sure you click on all of the links to obtain each video. I have all of them.

* I bought the repair kit from Accu-Slide complete with cable and instructions in case of cable failure. I then bought a 'cable cutter' from Home Depot, as you will need that to use the kit. Incredibly, Amazon carries many Accu-Slide items.

* The 'Popping' sound you hear when using Accu-Slide spells trouble! That often means you are putting undue force on one cable against another and that the slide is now canted or crooked when moving. It may even be 'tipped'. You can also be catching on some object during movement. Make sure all cable are strung with the correct tension and length per Accu-Slide in their videos. This is important.

* One key issue with the cables per the videos is undue wear. If you bend back the rubber rain seals outside or look at the cables coming in to the interior living area, you will see the cable runs through thin metal plates. Often, the cables rub against this metal and causes 'bucking' or complete destruction of the cable itself. I discovered the factory had taken tin snips and cut a big slot in my walls where the cable was rubbing!! The did not bother to reset the cables, but took the cheap route.

* The motors and cables can clearly be seen if you remove the 'decorative fascia' that lines the upper ceiling above the pull-outs. You will see 'cloth buttons' or similar and these pop off. You then remove the screws and the board comes off. Once that is done, you have clear access to the entire cable system and the motors. Note the color coding system they use! This matches the videos which tells you which cable does a particular operation.....(Push/Pull).

* I had a heck of a time finding where the heavy-duty 'Extension Shaft' was to retract a failed cable motor. Well, it is attached to the motors! You will see the flexible shaft in a snap ring. You remove it and then attach it to a heavy-duty drill. I bought a cheap Harbor-Freight 18Volt to carry with me. The shaft fits into the end of the motor and you turn it using the drill. Make SURE your slide is free of obstructions and jamming before you attempt this. As stated, you must remove your decorative fascia to reach everything. The slide should be moved inboard about 1-2 feet to make the reach easy for you to the motors and cables.

* Do not grease the cables! You may wish to oil the cable roller bearings and such, but they advise the cables and motors are designed not be greased or oiled. If I see exposed motor gears, that may get some grease if it needs it.

* Important: Look at your cables from the outside and inside. They need to retract EVENLY AND LEVEL. If they are angled downward or up, that is a serious issue and can cause the 'popping' sound due to stress. Also make sure they are not cutting into the tin wall covering as stated. You will lose your cables. If you put your side out fully, you will see the cables disappear behind the rubber rain seals. Bend the seals back and look. Then go inside and check all sides and cable entry points.

* Take your videos from You-Tube and put them on a Flash-Drive! Take them with you in the trailer so that you have a perfect visual record to use if the system fails. To copy You-Tube videos, download a free program I use called *'YTD VIDEO DOWNLOADER'*. You cannot copy You-Tube videos without it. Find it on Google.

YTD easy to use and allows you to copy any You-Tube video for your computer and even to a DVD. I currently have over 800 RV videos due to this.

That's It!

I hope this helps you. Take your time to be prepared if the system fails. While I hope I never have to face such a situation in the future, at least I have an understanding.

TJM

Northwest

Looking forward to travels this Summer..........


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## JRF16

MiltonDan said:


> I have this slide system on my 2014 298RE. Not impressed with the quality of the system. The main living/dining slide pulley assembly ripped from the wall after the screws sheared off. I'm not the only one that has had. This issue either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg





TJM said:


> *TO ACCU-SLIDE OWNERS:*
> 
> *Hello, Everyone! *
> 
> I have read nearly all of the Accu-Slide comments in the Forum thus far. I have a 2014 Keystone Outback 298RE and have done everything possible to research and prepare for any failure of my system. I did find some assistance as well as defects and issues on my trailer that I would like to post below that may help each of you:
> 
> * The Accu-Slide system has outstanding videos that can help you understand exactly what the system does and how it operates. Find them on *YOU-TUBE* and make sure you click on all of the links to obtain each video. I have all of them.
> 
> * I bought the repair kit from Accu-Slide complete with cable and instructions in case of cable failure. I then bought a 'cable cutter' from Home Depot, as you will need that to use the kit. Incredibly, Amazon carries many Accu-Slide items.
> 
> * The 'Popping' sound you hear when using Accu-Slide spells trouble! That often means you are putting undue force on one cable against another and that the slide is now canted or crooked when moving. It may even be 'tipped'. You can also be catching on some object during movement. Make sure all cable are strung with the correct tension and length per Accu-Slide in their videos. This is important.
> 
> * One key issue with the cables per the videos is undue wear. If you bend back the rubber rain seals outside or look at the cables coming in to the interior living area, you will see the cable runs through thin metal plates. Often, the cables rub against this metal and causes 'bucking' or complete destruction of the cable itself. I discovered the factory had taken tin snips and cut a big slot in my walls where the cable was rubbing!! The did not bother to reset the cables, but took the cheap route.
> 
> * The motors and cables can clearly be seen if you remove the 'decorative fascia' that lines the upper ceiling above the pull-outs. You will see 'cloth buttons' or similar and these pop off. You then remove the screws and the board comes off. Once that is done, you have clear access to the entire cable system and the motors. Note the color coding system they use! This matches the videos which tells you which cable does a particular operation.....(Push/Pull).
> 
> * I had a heck of a time finding where the heavy-duty 'Extension Shaft' was to retract a failed cable motor. Well, it is attached to the motors! You will see the flexible shaft in a snap ring. You remove it and then attach it to a heavy-duty drill. I bought a cheap Harbor-Freight 18Volt to carry with me. The shaft fits into the end of the motor and you turn it using the drill. Make SURE your slide is free of obstructions and jamming before you attempt this. As stated, you must remove your decorative fascia to reach everything. The slide should be moved inboard about 1-2 feet to make the reach easy for you to the motors and cables.
> 
> * Do not grease the cables! You may wish to oil the cable roller bearings and such, but they advise the cables and motors are designed not be greased or oiled. If I see exposed motor gears, that may get some grease if it needs it.
> 
> * Important: Look at your cables from the outside and inside. They need to retract EVENLY AND LEVEL. If they are angled downward or up, that is a serious issue and can cause the 'popping' sound due to stress. Also make sure they are not cutting into the tin wall covering as stated. You will lose your cables. If you put your side out fully, you will see the cables disappear behind the rubber rain seals. Bend the seals back and look. Then go inside and check all sides and cable entry points.
> 
> * Take your videos from You-Tube and put them on a Flash-Drive! Take them with you in the trailer so that you have a perfect visual record to use if the system fails. To copy You-Tube videos, download a free program I use called *'YTD VIDEO DOWNLOADER'*. You cannot copy You-Tube videos without it. Find it on Google.
> 
> YTD easy to use and allows you to copy any You-Tube video for your computer and even to a DVD. I currently have over 800 RV videos due to this.
> 
> That's It!
> 
> I hope this helps you. Take your time to be prepared if the system fails. While I hope I never have to face such a situation in the future, at least I have an understanding.
> 
> TJM
> Northwest
> Looking forward to travels this Summer..........





TJM said:


> 'Todd&Regan' said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd open up a thread on the Norco BAL accu-slide seeing that there are quite a few members now with 2014 Outbacks. For those who were not aware, Outbacks now have Norco BAL accu-slide slide outs, not the Lippert through-frame slide out. To quickly sum how it works, there is an electric motor mounted to the inside wall just above the slide out. There is a shaft with two gears attached to the motor. The gears drive two chains with two cables attached to both ends of the chain. One set of cables pulls the slide out, the other set pulls the slide in. Thus, four cables pulling the slide in, and four pulling the slide out. The cables run through pulleys that are mounted to the wall (slide out trim hides the motor, cables, and pulleys). Seems like an efficient design with few moving parts.
> 
> I noticed on the rear slide to my 301BQ that the top two cables (exposed when the slide is extended) were sagging. I pulled up the accu-slide manual on norco's website and read it top to bottom. I tightened the cables so they weren't sagging. The accu-slide manual stated that cables should have some slack, but not be sagging. Some time after that, I noticed the top cables on the front slide were sagging also. Tightened those cables as well, but noticed a couple popping noises when I retracted the slide. I didn't have time to investigate what was making that noise, but I will check it out soon. The trick to the accu-slide is to adjust the cables to they aren't too loose, nor too tight. This should have been done at the factory. I figure I won't be the only one with this issue, that's why I'm posting. Yes I could've taken it back to the dealer and had them adjust the cables under warranty, but I hesitate to take my camper to sit at the dealer for 2 or 3 weeks for something I can do myself.
Click to expand...




TJM said:


> 'Todd&Regan' said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd open up a thread on the Norco BAL accu-slide seeing that there are quite a few members now with 2014 Outbacks. For those who were not aware, Outbacks now have Norco BAL accu-slide slide outs, not the Lippert through-frame slide out. To quickly sum how it works, there is an electric motor mounted to the inside wall just above the slide out. There is a shaft with two gears attached to the motor. The gears drive two chains with two cables attached to both ends of the chain. One set of cables pulls the slide out, the other set pulls the slide in. Thus, four cables pulling the slide in, and four pulling the slide out. The cables run through pulleys that are mounted to the wall (slide out trim hides the motor, cables, and pulleys). Seems like an efficient design with few moving parts.
> 
> I noticed on the rear slide to my 301BQ that the top two cables (exposed when the slide is extended) were sagging. I pulled up the accu-slide manual on norco's website and read it top to bottom. I tightened the cables so they weren't sagging. The accu-slide manual stated that cables should have some slack, but not be sagging. Some time after that, I noticed the top cables on the front slide were sagging also. Tightened those cables as well, but noticed a couple popping noises when I retracted the slide. I didn't have time to investigate what was making that noise, but I will check it out soon. The trick to the accu-slide is to adjust the cables to they aren't too loose, nor too tight. This should have been done at the factory. I figure I won't be the only one with this issue, that's why I'm posting. Yes I could've taken it back to the dealer and had them adjust the cables under warranty, but I hesitate to take my camper to sit at the dealer for 2 or 3 weeks for something I can do myself.
Click to expand...




MiltonDan said:


> I have this slide system on my 2014 298RE. Not impressed with the quality of the system. The main living/dining slide pulley assembly ripped from the wall after the screws sheared off. I'm not the only one that has had. This issue either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg


The same thing happened on our 2016 Outback Terrain 230 TRS rear bed slide. The mechanism is mounted under the bed slideout. You end up on your knees working in the nine inch space between, sort of step, top of the rear storage compartment and the bottom of the bed. Just finished redoing the screws and started adjusting the cables. Found this thread searching for information.

My bracket on one side looked just like the picture except reversed for bottom mounting. There was only one of the seven screws still holding the pulley bracket to the back wall. The heads had popped off the three screws under that one. The next screw below that only went into light metal covered with paper matching the wall. The fifth and bottom screw on that side only went into the thin wall board. All the screws were one inch long so the two on the other thick side only the tips penetrated the thin paper covered metal.

This is not a Norco problem but a Keystone issue. I would call it a manufacture defect and they should issue a recall. We can dream! They wouldn't help with the roof issues or the shorted out wiring for the awning.

After test drill determined there was about 1 3/4 inches between the walls. Used 1 1/4inch screws in three locations and 1 1/2 inch on the thick side. Put a 1/4-20 rivet nut in the thin metal spot. Bolted a piece of angle to the wall board only hole and screwed down to the top of the storage compartment. Now have six spots that I feel have very decent holding strength as opposed to the original three. The seventh will help but may be questionable for strength. Should help from a leverage stand point.

Hope this helps. JRF16

Sorry pictures wouldn't download.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk


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## JRF16

JRF16 said:


> MiltonDan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have this slide system on my 2014 298RE. Not impressed with the quality of the system. The main living/dining slide pulley assembly ripped from the wall after the screws sheared off. I'm not the only one that has had. This issue either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> image.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TJM said:
> 
> 
> 
> *TO ACCU-SLIDE OWNERS:*
> 
> *Hello, Everyone! *
> 
> I have read nearly all of the Accu-Slide comments in the Forum thus far. I have a 2014 Keystone Outback 298RE and have done everything possible to research and prepare for any failure of my system. I did find some assistance as well as defects and issues on my trailer that I would like to post below that may help each of you:
> 
> * The Accu-Slide system has outstanding videos that can help you understand exactly what the system does and how it operates. Find them on *YOU-TUBE* and make sure you click on all of the links to obtain each video. I have all of them.
> 
> * I bought the repair kit from Accu-Slide complete with cable and instructions in case of cable failure. I then bought a 'cable cutter' from Home Depot, as you will need that to use the kit. Incredibly, Amazon carries many Accu-Slide items.
> 
> * The 'Popping' sound you hear when using Accu-Slide spells trouble! That often means you are putting undue force on one cable against another and that the slide is now canted or crooked when moving. It may even be 'tipped'. You can also be catching on some object during movement. Make sure all cable are strung with the correct tension and length per Accu-Slide in their videos. This is important.
> 
> * One key issue with the cables per the videos is undue wear. If you bend back the rubber rain seals outside or look at the cables coming in to the interior living area, you will see the cable runs through thin metal plates. Often, the cables rub against this metal and causes 'bucking' or complete destruction of the cable itself. I discovered the factory had taken tin snips and cut a big slot in my walls where the cable was rubbing!! The did not bother to reset the cables, but took the cheap route.
> 
> * The motors and cables can clearly be seen if you remove the 'decorative fascia' that lines the upper ceiling above the pull-outs. You will see 'cloth buttons' or similar and these pop off. You then remove the screws and the board comes off. Once that is done, you have clear access to the entire cable system and the motors. Note the color coding system they use! This matches the videos which tells you which cable does a particular operation.....(Push/Pull).
> 
> * I had a heck of a time finding where the heavy-duty 'Extension Shaft' was to retract a failed cable motor. Well, it is attached to the motors! You will see the flexible shaft in a snap ring. You remove it and then attach it to a heavy-duty drill. I bought a cheap Harbor-Freight 18Volt to carry with me. The shaft fits into the end of the motor and you turn it using the drill. Make SURE your slide is free of obstructions and jamming before you attempt this. As stated, you must remove your decorative fascia to reach everything. The slide should be moved inboard about 1-2 feet to make the reach easy for you to the motors and cables.
> 
> * Do not grease the cables! You may wish to oil the cable roller bearings and such, but they advise the cables and motors are designed not be greased or oiled. If I see exposed motor gears, that may get some grease if it needs it.
> 
> * Important: Look at your cables from the outside and inside. They need to retract EVENLY AND LEVEL. If they are angled downward or up, that is a serious issue and can cause the 'popping' sound due to stress. Also make sure they are not cutting into the tin wall covering as stated. You will lose your cables. If you put your side out fully, you will see the cables disappear behind the rubber rain seals. Bend the seals back and look. Then go inside and check all sides and cable entry points.
> 
> * Take your videos from You-Tube and put them on a Flash-Drive! Take them with you in the trailer so that you have a perfect visual record to use if the system fails. To copy You-Tube videos, download a free program I use called *'YTD VIDEO DOWNLOADER'*. You cannot copy You-Tube videos without it. Find it on Google.
> 
> YTD easy to use and allows you to copy any You-Tube video for your computer and even to a DVD. I currently have over 800 RV videos due to this.
> 
> That's It!
> 
> I hope this helps you. Take your time to be prepared if the system fails. While I hope I never have to face such a situation in the future, at least I have an understanding.
> 
> TJM
> Northwest
> Looking forward to travels this Summer..........
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TJM said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thought I'd open up a thread on the Norco BAL accu-slide seeing that there are quite a few members now with 2014 Outbacks. For those who were not aware, Outbacks now have Norco BAL accu-slide slide outs, not the Lippert through-frame slide out. To quickly sum how it works, there is an electric motor mounted to the inside wall just above the slide out. There is a shaft with two gears attached to the motor. The gears drive two chains with two cables attached to both ends of the chain. One set of cables pulls the slide out, the other set pulls the slide in. Thus, four cables pulling the slide in, and four pulling the slide out. The cables run through pulleys that are mounted to the wall (slide out trim hides the motor, cables, and pulleys). Seems like an efficient design with few moving parts.
> 
> I noticed on the rear slide to my 301BQ that the top two cables (exposed when the slide is extended) were sagging. I pulled up the accu-slide manual on norco's website and read it top to bottom. I tightened the cables so they weren't sagging. The accu-slide manual stated that cables should have some slack, but not be sagging. Some time after that, I noticed the top cables on the front slide were sagging also. Tightened those cables as well, but noticed a couple popping noises when I retracted the slide. I didn't have time to investigate what was making that noise, but I will check it out soon. The trick to the accu-slide is to adjust the cables to they aren't too loose, nor too tight. This should have been done at the factory. I figure I won't be the only one with this issue, that's why I'm posting. Yes I could've taken it back to the dealer and had them adjust the cables under warranty, but I hesitate to take my camper to sit at the dealer for 2 or 3 weeks for something I can do myself.
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> TJM said:
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> Thought I'd open up a thread on the Norco BAL accu-slide seeing that there are quite a few members now with 2014 Outbacks. For those who were not aware, Outbacks now have Norco BAL accu-slide slide outs, not the Lippert through-frame slide out. To quickly sum how it works, there is an electric motor mounted to the inside wall just above the slide out. There is a shaft with two gears attached to the motor. The gears drive two chains with two cables attached to both ends of the chain. One set of cables pulls the slide out, the other set pulls the slide in. Thus, four cables pulling the slide in, and four pulling the slide out. The cables run through pulleys that are mounted to the wall (slide out trim hides the motor, cables, and pulleys). Seems like an efficient design with few moving parts.
> 
> I noticed on the rear slide to my 301BQ that the top two cables (exposed when the slide is extended) were sagging. I pulled up the accu-slide manual on norco's website and read it top to bottom. I tightened the cables so they weren't sagging. The accu-slide manual stated that cables should have some slack, but not be sagging. Some time after that, I noticed the top cables on the front slide were sagging also. Tightened those cables as well, but noticed a couple popping noises when I retracted the slide. I didn't have time to investigate what was making that noise, but I will check it out soon. The trick to the accu-slide is to adjust the cables to they aren't too loose, nor too tight. This should have been done at the factory. I figure I won't be the only one with this issue, that's why I'm posting. Yes I could've taken it back to the dealer and had them adjust the cables under warranty, but I hesitate to take my camper to sit at the dealer for 2 or 3 weeks for something I can do myself.
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> MiltonDan said:
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> I have this slide system on my 2014 298RE. Not impressed with the quality of the system. The main living/dining slide pulley assembly ripped from the wall after the screws sheared off. I'm not the only one that has had. This issue either.
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> The same thing happened on our 2016 Outback Terrain 230 TRS rear bed slide. The mechanism is mounted under the bed slideout. You end up on your knees working in the nine inch space between, sort of step, top of the rear storage compartment and the bottom of the bed. Just finished redoing the screws and started adjusting the cables. Found this thread searching for information.
> 
> My bracket on one side looked just like the picture except reversed for bottom mounting. There was only one of the seven screws still holding the pulley bracket to the back wall. The heads had popped off the three screws under that one. The next screw below that only went into light metal covered with paper matching the wall. The fifth and bottom screw on that side only went into the thin wall board. All the screws were one inch long so the two on the other thick side only the tips penetrated the thin paper covered metal.
> 
> This is not a Norco problem but a Keystone issue. I would call it a manufacture defect and they should issue a recall. We can dream! They wouldn't help with the roof issues or the shorted out wiring for the awning.
> 
> After test drill determined there was about 1 3/4 inches between the walls. Used 1 1/4inch screws in three locations and 1 1/2 inch on the thick side. Put a 1/4-20 rivet nut in the thin metal spot. Bolted a piece of angle to the wall board only hole and screwed down to the top of the storage compartment. Now have six spots that I feel have very decent holding strength as opposed to the original three. The seventh will help but may be questionable for strength. Should help from a leverage stand point.
> 
> Hope this helps. JRF16
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> Sorry pictures wouldn't download.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
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Although our Terrain 230TRS is considered a 2016 it was purchased in May of 2015. Long past the one year warrantee. So rather than pay a dealer to do what may or may not be a good repair I did it with everthing I could to make a lasting repair.

JRF16














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## tdsanto

Thanks for all the great info on this slide system. My 2014 Sprinter has this slide system an since installing a Solera topper, the slide will only retract on the switch, not extend. Any suggestions?


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## BradP

I know I am responding very late but just started having issues with my slide.

Before I read the BAL service manual I discovered that the bottom right side of my slide doesnt

open flush with the wall, It is short by 1 7/8".The left side is also short but just by 7/8".

The manual says I have to adjust both right side locking systems (Green and Purple) but after close inspection I

found the green side is at its maximum, meaning if I loosen it any more the cable will come loose.

Any suggestions out there??


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