# Dometic Refrigerator



## Liz C (Jan 21, 2012)

We camped over Labor Day. Our freezer did not keep the ice cream frozen. It did keep the ribs frozen. When we got home, I dug the book out. There is a switch, when you open the freezer door, it was off, what does that switch control. Was our frig working on gas all weekend, I wonder? Did someone turn the frig off? I have no idea. We took everything out of the frig, defrosted it, turned it back on. I have some sleeve popsicles in there now, they frooze. Should I take it to the shop? I have a few bottles of water in the frig, they feel kind of cold.

Sometimes the freezer door makes the whistling noise when we close the door. It wasn't making that noise over Labor Day.

Thanks for the help/advice!

Liz


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

First and for most get a thermometer to monitor the freezer temps. The ice creme standard is not really accurate enough. The freezer should run about -5 to +5 F but can be as high as 10 F if the fridge side of the trailer is in full sun. Also get a thermometer for the fridge and it should be about 35 to 38 F typically.

The switch you mention is the anti condensate heater and is not really required. If it is on it will kill your batteries in very little time if you are not on shore power. I never turn mine on.

The whistle you hear is the air in the freezer contracting and drawing air across the door seal. Warm air goes in when you open the door and when you close it the air cools rapidly and contracts causing a vacuum to form.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

Good answers CamperAndy. If the temps are not what they are suppose to be, there are several other things to check. Open up the outside vent to the back of the refridge and look up. there should be a block across the top of the fridge that leaves a gap of just a couple of inches so that air moves quickly across the back of the coils. To improve airflow they do make a solar powered vent hood for the top of the camper that does help some. Also they make a battery powered fan to put inside the fridge to move the cold air around. Another thing to check is on the right hand side of the fins in the back of the fridge part is a small plastic clip. You can move this up or down to make it warmer or cooler inside the refridge. Hope this helps.


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## 2011 210RS (May 27, 2010)

My fridge works most of the time. I just pulled the TT out and set the fridge to A/C. 3 hours and the freezer was not even cool. Switched to Propane and it began working. If there is a thread about this I haven't found it. It is not in the recall list and service says it fine because it works 90% of the time. Any tips.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Random operation is not a typical mode when it comes to 120 vac operation. Need more details on what checks you have done and what you do to get it to work. Also it can take up to 24 hours to get down to temperature. I would recommend you start by getting a couple of thermometers and placing those in the fridge and freezer. The empty freezer hand wave in the compartment is not a reliable indication of the freezer operating. Also if you have an infrared thermometer that would be handing for checking the boiler and condenser operation.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

x2 on getting actual temperatures in the fridge and freezer sections. With our dometic, Freezer temps is between +5F and 0F, with the fridge at about 35F. Note that the freezer temps is higher than a normal S&B freezer, And at 5F many ice creams will be pretty easy to scoop out. In hot weather the freezer may be up near +10F. While this enough to keep meat, veggies, etc frozen, ice cream etc. will not be frozen hard.

But the temp should be the same on propane or 120V once it is cooled down.


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## 2011 210RS (May 27, 2010)

I made some phone calls to Dometic and service reps as per Dometics request. I spoke with a Dometic trained / certified service tech and if the unit has been stored, the sodium carbonte used in the amonia can seperate and form crystals. With the sodium out of the mix the refridgeration cycle cannot be completed so it never cools down and eventually shuts off. He said to tap on the 3"x10" black tube with a soft blow mallet to break up the crystals so it would re dilute back into the system and that is was critical to have the TT as close to level as possible. I did both and the fridge began working perfectly. He also mentioned the principal of "bumping" which is removing the fridge and turning it upside down. Here is a link that explains the cycle. http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/trouble/cooldoc.htm . Hope this is right and helps.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Burping or banging on the condenser coil is only needed if the fridge had been operating grossly out of level. Rule of thumb is that if you do not notice the slope of the floor when walking then it is good enough.

Good to hear it is working again but can I ask, was the fridge operated for any length of time when it was not reasonable level?


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## 2011 210RS (May 27, 2010)

You know, you ask really good questions. Thinking back, after talking to the tech, the majority of times the fridge stoped working was after it had been parked. All of the places, both my old home and now the storage facility, the TT is not very level and I never had to move it very far when preping for a trip. Durring heavy use the fridge was flawless. Short answer long, it seemed to be somewhat nose down everytime I was preping and I do believe that is a major factor of the fridge not functioning like it should so I do not think it ever did work in that position. As soon as I would hit the road, it worked.


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## AngryA (Apr 29, 2013)

Lmbevard said:


> Another thing to check is on the right hand side of the fins in the back of the fridge part is a small plastic clip. You can move this up or down to make it warmer or cooler inside the refridge. Hope this helps.


Anyone know which way is which? I can't remember if up=warmer or down=warmer!

Thanks,
AA


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

AngryA said:


> Another thing to check is on the right hand side of the fins in the back of the fridge part is a small plastic clip. You can move this up or down to make it warmer or cooler inside the refridge. Hope this helps.


Anyone know which way is which? I can't remember if up=warmer or down=warmer!

Thanks,
AA
[/quote]

The theory is that up is colder and down is warmer. This is based on warm air rising and heating the thermistor that is snapped inside the clip and thus turning the fridge on. Not sure I buy that but that is what is assumed.

Now for my understanding of the issues.

The fins in the fridge are coldest in the middle and near the top and warmest on the sides and near the bottom. Placing the thermistor on an outer fin either top or bottom there is not much difference in the fin temperature and I can not see the air in the fridge stagnating and getting stratified enough that the three or four inches change on the position of the thermistor could make much difference based on air temp. To keep the fridge at the coldest disconnect the clip and thermistor from the fin and let it just hang in the air. If you want the fridge to run all the time then disconnect the thermistor from the control board and the fridge will run in continuous mode, not recommended as it can freeze things in the fridge if it cool at night.


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## AngryA (Apr 29, 2013)

Thanks for the quick reply CamperAndy.

Great information!

CHEERS
AA


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