# Pass Thru-storage Doors Leak



## joshfrantz

Both of the pass-thru storage doors on my '04 28 BHS leak. After a rain, the inside is full of water on both sides. I have read through past threads on this topic and have noted comments about the top of the hinge being caulked. Would anyone like to tell me if there is any sealant on the top of their storage door hinges(or even shoot a quick pic of the top of their hinges?)? I have also heard that the screws could be leaking, but from what I have seen it is highly unlikely that the screws that are under the hinges are the problem. Could be the round gasket on the inside of the doors too?


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## Y-Guy

I am trying to remember who did it, but somebody put a gutter above their storage doors to shed the water away. I think that is the best way to go. Do you have the weep holes drilled in yours? Any sealer around the edges?


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## ctsoderq

I'm not familiar with the construction of your pass thru doors, as I have a 25RSS, but we had a leak on our bike door that I couldn't figure out and dealer saw in about 10 seconds. Our bike door has a small rib all the way around that squishes into the black seal all around the door. By looking at the seal, the dealer noticed that the mark in the seal left by the rib in the door was missing across the top. The seal was installed about 1/4" too low. They replaced the seal and made sure it was installed such that the door rib was centered in seal, this stopped our leak.

Sorry for the rambling, hope it makes sense. Look at your seal and observe the imprint left by the door(s), it might give you a clue. The gutter is also a good idea, but the doors should be able to seal either way.

Good luck sunny


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## camping479

I put these gutters over my storage doors, stopped the leaks.










Mike


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## NDJollyMon

Nice job Mike. Did you screw/caulk them on, or use another type fastener? How long were the screws?


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## DANJOGAVINMO

Camping World sells a similar gutter with a 3M adhesive that looks pretty much same design. I've had mine on for 6 months now, no sign of it coming off.

On my bike door I found that the lower edge "lip" edge of the metal frame was bent in a bit and was not making solid contact with the door. 3 minutes of careful tapping with a hammer put it back in place. That in combo with the gutter makes for a leak free bike door for me!
danny


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## CamperDC

I had this same problem and took it back to the dealer. He drilled the weep holes and and installed new seals and I have not had a leak since.


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## CamperAndy

From the picture posted below you can see the migration route.

The water sits on top of the hinge and seeps back to the rivets. From there it drips down to the back side of the door. The drip rail shown in an earlier post prevents the water from collecting on the hinge or you can do like I did and caulk the seam where the hinge and frame are to prevent the water from getting back to the rivets. If you look close at the picture I have posted you can actually see the drip path, it looks like a dark line coming from the second rivet.


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## camping479

Thanks Pete.

They're screwed and caulked on. The screws are stainless steel painted white, 3/4 of an inche long.

Mike


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## arbee

These doors are sorry. Mine leaked like seives when brand new. I still have problems.

They leaked at the top where the metal fram meets in the middle. Water followed the seam around to inside. Had to remove all the silicone behind the joint and fill it solid. The original silicone only went about half way down behind this seam.

The doors will pull water in above the hinge. I sealed this as well. It will also pull water in between the door and the hinge. The hinge joint needs to be sealed where it meets the camper and the door.

The locks didn't pull the doors very tight and the doors leaked around the seals. I bent the tabs to tighten them.

The weep holes help but they cannot handle a deluge. Water will get between the metal channel and the door and go around to the back side into the camper. I sealed the doors to the channel.

One door leaked between the metal frame and the fiberglass skin. I had to scrape all the silicone out from around the frame and reseal.

Finally, the locks are cheap and will leak themselves. There isn't much of a gasket between the lock and the door and there are no internal o-rings. If water runs down over your lock like it does on mine, water can go THROUGH the lock into the compartment. I still have a problem with this.

I am planning on adding the gutter above the doors and replacing the locks with units with o-rings. I want to replace them with these DC614N Series from http://www.illinoislock.com/weather3.htm so that I can lock when I want to but I don't have to use a key always.

I started with silicone to repair but found it didn't adhere well enough. It would last awhile and then leak again. I've been using a polyurethane caulk with better results.

I think these issues would affect all of us so I am surprised I haven't seen more posts. My really leaked bad when I got it. One door could saturate a towel in a single rain storm.

I'd advise folks to take a water hose to the doors, seams, locks all around and see if you end up with water in there. I had to take out my drawer and crawl in there while using a hose to find all the leaks. The locks will drip pretty steadily under direct flow from a water hose.

I think a lot of these units will end up with rotten floors in the compartments.


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