# Inverter Install Questions



## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Hello all,

We haven't even picked up our new 23RS, but I'm already planning my modifications!

Since we do a lot of dry camping, one of the first projects will be to install an inverter. I want to hard wire it in and have it work seamlessly so my wife doesn't have to think about it! I put a Xantrex Prosine 1000 watt inverter w/built-in transfer switch in our current TT and hardwired it to run the general plug circuit and the microwave. I would like to do the same on the 23RS so I have just a few questions for those who have done this.

I'll find out most of this soon enough (like Friday, lol!), but the more I can plan in advance, the better.

1) What is the wattage on the microwave in the 23RS? I don't think the 1000 watt inverter will do it, so I'm thinking of the 1800 watt version.

2) Is the converter on its own circuit? Don't want to create a loop of batteries-->inverter-->AC power-->converter-->batteries

3) Where did you mount your inverter, sub-panel, remote panel, battery on-off switch?

4) How did you run the cables from the batteries to the inverter with the underbelly being covered?

5) How many circuits are in the 23RS and is there more than one general plug circuit? I assume the microwave is on its own.

6) Finally, where did you run your Romex (or whatever) from the inverter to the panel?

Thanks very much in advance for any tips, photos, advice, criticisms and beratement that may be offered!! action


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## N7OQ (Jun 10, 2006)

I like to keep things simple I just hook the inverter to the batteries with the clamps then just plug the trailer AC cord using a 30amp to 15 amp adaptor into the inverter then turn off the Converter circuit breakers. I only use a 500 watt inverter so can't run the Microwave I just use it to run a couple of laptops and maybe my Son's game machine. I would think that running a 1000 watt inverter at full power would drain the batteries fast at about 100 amps of draw.


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

I believe that the Microwave has a constant draw of 1800 and a surge draw of 2100

But its been a while since i looked at the manual...

but you could zap two batteries pretty quick -- maybe its time to use the stove and not Microwave


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## SoCalOutback (Dec 18, 2005)

Ghosty said:


> I believe that the Microwave has a constant draw of 1800 and a surge draw of 2100
> 
> But its been a while since i looked at the manual...
> 
> ...


A fully charged dual 6 volt battery system would run a 1800 watt microwave on an inverter for about 1.2 hours. If you only used the micro to reheat things for a few minutes a day and you recharged the batteries every couple of days it should work.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Yikes!!! I hope the micro isn't 1800 watts. That would make it bigger than the one in our house! I think most around that size are in the 900-1000 watt range. The little one I put in our current TT is 600 or 650 watts. Good enough for heating things up and doesn't suck up too many amps.


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Thanks, now I have to go see how many watts my microwave is









We use a 700 watt inverter and just run a multiplug extension cord into the outback through the screen slider door. It's just to run the television and dvd player...works fine but I like Verstelle's idea better.

Forgive me for asking, but why do you have to turn off the converter circuit breakers?

Dawn sunny


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Insomniack,

I hope your plans include adding a generator into that mix?







You are really going to draw those batteries down in a hurry! I'm curious, what kind of performance are you seeing with your current TT?

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Seems like a great mod...but a lot of work and it will really strain the battery.

I dry camp 99% of the time and my dual 6v battery setup will last about 4 days. I carry a small generator to top off the batteries for trips beyond 4 days. I will run the microwave but not the AC (which I would never use anyway)


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Seems like a great mod...but a lot of work and it will really strain the battery.
> 
> I dry camp 99% of the time and my dual 6v battery setup will last about 4 days. I carry a small generator to top off the batteries for trips beyond 4 days. I will run the microwave but not the AC (which I would never use anyway)
> [snapback]130471[/snapback]​


Same here... Insomniak, you're gonna need a generator


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## BlueWedge (Sep 11, 2005)

1) 1100 watts CDMW12B - Microwave - couldn't find a manual with more details

2) The converter/charger should be on its own circuit, it was on our 21RS.

3) As close to the batteries as possible in the front of trailer. I am not sure what open area is close to the batteries on a 23RS. I also converted the panel to have a sub panel which is hooked to an automatic transfer relay made for the WFCO 8955(model number T30). The microwave and 2 recepticle circuits are on this sub panel. I have an ANL fuse between inverter and batteries. Remote inverter on/off switch is located next to the other panels on the wall.

4) I drilled through the floor in the very small area available in the front that isn't in the underbelly, between the front of the trailer and frame. I might have a photo in my trailer link below.

5) I believe you can have a total of 9 circuits not counting the main. 1 for recepticles and 1 for GFI recepticles. If I remember correctly some general recepticles are also on the GFI circuit. The Microwave has its own 15 amp circuit.

6) In the underbelly, there are several under there already. I didn't pull the entire
underbelly but only enough to fish a line back to the panel from the front.

- I have several photos in the gallery.

My install thread is here -> Inverter mod


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

PDX_Doug said:


> Insomniack,
> 
> I hope your plans include adding a generator into that mix?
> 
> ...


Hey Doug,

I already have a Honda EU1000i and a Honda EU3000is. I usually bring the 1000 watt generator because it's so portable, but I bring the big one if we plan to use the A/C. It gets pretty hot out in the desert!

If it's just me, I can go 2-3 days without the generator, but I know how to conserve. If I have the kids with me, they like to watch DVD's when I'm outside with the telescope. I don't like to run the generator all the time, so I just use the inverter. I might come in around midnight or 1am (or 2am, lol) and watch a movie myself, and I still have plenty of power. In winter it's a different story if the furnace is running. I'll usually run the generator for a couple hours during the day.

I've done the attaching the inverter to the batteries and plugging in the shore power cord thing, but that doesn't work very well in bad weather!! With our current setup, I just flip the battery switch on and the remote panel on and we have power at two circuits. I really like the hardwire route but it is a lot of work.

Dawn,

You don't want to create a loop of batteries-->inverter-->AC power-->converter-->batteries so the converter needs to be on its own circuit.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

BlueWedge said:


> 1) 1100 watts CDMW12B - Microwave - couldn't find a manual with more details
> 
> 2) The converter/charger should be on its own circuit, it was on our 21RS.
> 
> ...


Blue Wedge,

Thanks for the info. I'm assuming you cut the bus bar in the AC distribution panel? I've seen that before - slick way to create a subpanel in your existing space. You probably had to put in a few double breakers to move circuits to the "main" panel?

When we pick up the trailer, I'll start looking around for potential places to mount stuff. The front storage area is a likely place for the inverter. I may do the split bus thing, but I'll look for a place to put a subpanel before I do that. I'll probably use another Xantrex with built-in transfer switch - it works great and it's very fast. I'll also put in a disconnect for the batteries since the inverter draws about 25 watts even under no load.

Thanks again,
Kevin


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## BlueWedge (Sep 11, 2005)

Insomniak said:


> BlueWedge said:
> 
> 
> > 1) 1100 watts CDMW12B - Microwave - couldn't find a manual with more details
> ...


You are correct I cut the bus added 2 - 20/15 amp breakers. You also need to split the neutral bar to isolate the sub panel because of the GFI recepticles.


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## SoCalOutback (Dec 18, 2005)

Insomniak said:


> Yikes!!! I hope the micro isn't 1800 watts. That would make it bigger than the one in our house! I think most around that size are in the 900-1000 watt range. The little one I put in our current TT is 600 or 650 watts. Good enough for heating things up and doesn't suck up too many amps.
> [snapback]130448[/snapback]​


I believe the microwave draws a litte less then 1800 watts of AC power and produces 1000 watts of microwave energy. The listed "watts" on a microwave refers to the output and not the consumption. I was using the consumed watts in my calculations but neglected to say so in my previous post. Here is a good artical on microwaves and it indicates that the average microwave is only about 64% efficient in the use of power.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

BlueWedge said:


> Insomniak said:
> 
> 
> > BlueWedge said:
> ...


Hmmm, not sure why you would have to cut the neutral bus. The inverted circuits neutral wires have to be connected to the shore power neutral wire, and since the "main" panel circuits neutrals are connected to the shore neutral, you'd just be tying them back together again.

I would think if you have a GFI outlet that's tripping, then the outlet may be going bad or there's a ground fault somewhere else.


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Insomniak said:


> PDX_Doug said:
> 
> 
> > Insomniack,
> ...


lol, sounds like you have the generator thing under control...thanks for the info on the converter


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Blue Wedge,

I think I had a bit of brain fade and wasn't picturing what you were talking about. Yes, you would have to cut the neutral bar (if you wanted to use a bar to connect the neutrals). The easier thing might be to just wire nut all the inverted circuit neutrals (and grounds) to the inverter (or transfer switch) output side neutral and ground wires. But not together!! You don't bond neutrals and grounds together in an RV setup. As long as the wires are protected, the wire nuts won't come off.

My current setup has the inverter and subpanel located several feet away from the main panel, so I ran romex from the subpanel to a junction box at the point where the circuits cables come out of the wall. Made my connections there and away I went !!


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## N7OQ (Jun 10, 2006)

skippershe said:


> Thanks, now I have to go see how many watts my microwave isÂ
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The reason I turn off the converter is because when it sees the Inverter voltage it will try to make 12 volts and run the whole trailer like all the lights refrig control, water pump ect. It would use all the inverter wattage and there would be none left for what you wanted it for in the first place. Now when you turn off the converter circuit breaker everything will run off the batteries and all the sockets will have 120 volts AC on it and the converter will be off. I hope this makes sense.


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## willyfood (May 9, 2008)

By turning off the circuit breakers do you mean all six black circuit breakers?

thanks Willy



Verstelle said:


> I like to keep things simple I just hook the inverter to the batteries with the clamps then just plug the trailer AC cord using a 30amp to 15 amp adaptor into the inverter then turn off the Converter circuit breakers. I only use a 500 watt inverter so can't run the Microwave I just use it to run a couple of laptops and maybe my Son's game machine. I would think that running a 1000 watt inverter at full power would drain the batteries fast at about 100 amps of draw.


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