# Hitch Adjustments - Getting Rid Of Semi Sway



## flexdog1 (Jan 24, 2010)

I am going for a "test tow" tomorrow with a 301BQ and my 2008 Tundra Crewmax. While discussing this rig and towing capability, we got on the topic of trailer sway. I have a Resse StraightLine - Dual CAM, WD hitch. I mentioned that they only time I really feel movement is when a semi comes up on me and "sucks me in".
See end of previous thread: Toyota Tundra Crewmax W/iforce 5.7

So Carey (Colorado~DirtBikers) suggested that I post a new topic so we could discuss it. I have attached pictures of my hitch.

So, Carey asked how far back the hitch head is tilted - if 0% is straight up and down, and 100% is laying down at a 90 deg. angle.
As you might be able to tell from the pics, it is only tilted slightly back - maybe 5-10%.

Again, what I am trying to avoid is having a sudden sway (usually to the left as a semi passes me).

Any comments?
Thanks,
-scott


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

I had a bunch of stuff typed out suggesting various things but after thinking about it in broader terms, it just boils down to what is imo - you have too much trailer, too little TV.

-CC


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

That's the type of stuff I experienced with the F150 and the 28RSDS. Initially, my dealer setup was less than ideal. Once I re-setup the hitch, I never saw the tail wag in the mirror, but Semi's or wind gusts would move me around. I finally came to the conclusion that the hitch was working but the 1/2 ton suspension and tires weren't up to the task. I seriously considered some mods to the truck including LT tires and air bags to help the suspension. However it was a lease that was coming due, so the next truck was a 1 ton. On that truck, when I crossed the plains I did even get some wind gusts that induced sway (I could see the trailer wag a little), but the truck was always extremely steady and I never had the feeling that I was steering just to keep the rig straight.

So, I'd recommned first going back and setting up the hitch according to Reese's instructions. If you're still feeling uncomfortable movement and want to keep the Tundra, I'd recommend looking at upgrades to your truck to stiffen up the suspension and tires.


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## clarkely (Sep 15, 2008)

With my last Trailer (Springdale 298BHL-GL), and TV (1500 Burb) I put E rated tires on, huge difference, and i always put on airbags on which help. Ultimately i did not have enough wheelbase. I went with a projection pivot hitch and haven,t looked back, Literally









Sold That camper to a friend who pulls it with a 1500 pickup (with e rated tires).... crew cab, long bed. He has the wheelbase that i did not, and he says he has no problem, and i have followed them en route, and they do not seem to have any "push". 
He is a little under on powered, but not for where he usually travels.

my opinion


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

Bigger TV solves this problem every time.

DAN


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

I don't sway on the road but I do get the semi push/pull when they roll by. Nothing I would say is extreme, not much can be done about it. A semi moves so much air going down the road it is bound to move you some. My new D range Kumho tires fell good with my new EZ flex and flip kit I did. Just got back from Florida and it rode nice. Still have that one spot on 95N just south of 295/95 split that makes me jump like a dolphin. Something about that bridge and my overall length that makes me bounce like a super ball. Maybe one day VDOT will fix that....


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## go6car (Jan 19, 2004)

Just my opinion on a few things to help when towing at the higher end of your ratings...

Rather than attempting this ourselves, we had our overall setup re-adjusted slightly by the dealer when we had a full/weighted ready-to-camp load in the trailer vs. towing it home new/empty. A few inches and angles tweaked here, did make an impact.

Also, added stiff springs to the back end of the truck and got about another ~2 inches back in height for towing. Both made for a much better overall pulling experience.

As far as the big rigs passing - think of it like a boat passing you in the water(with a wake). If you very gently accelerate into the "wake" (rather than slowing down) when the rig passes, it will help. Also a small, gentle tap on the electric brake control will also help if the tail really starts wagging the dog too much. Again, think gentle moves here - nothing hard or drastic.

There are a lot of differing opinions out there on all this, but we've found the above to be helpful. Hopefully you do too!

Good luck and happy camping!


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

collinsfam_tx said:


> I had a bunch of stuff typed out suggesting various things but after thinking about it in broader terms, it just boils down to what is imo - you have too much trailer, too little TV.
> 
> -CC


X2. The (bigger) tail is wagging the (smaller) dog. I started out pulling my 30' trailer with a 1500 Suburban and experienced the same thing you are describing. When I traded for the 2500HD Crew Cab pickup, the problem went away. The 3/4-ton PU has the suspension and the tires to handle that trailer. The 1500s are built to ride like a car, with radial tires and matching soft suspension. (The tires on my Suburban were fully inflated at 36 psi. The tires on my 2500HD are fully inflated at 80 psi.)

If you are experiencing sway when a semi overtakes you, imagine the situation you might find yourself in if the trailer starts to get away from you. Just food for thought.

Mike


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## ftwildernessguy (Oct 12, 2009)

I don't care what hitch you have or the how big your TV is, when that semi goes by it is going to move you some. I don't consider that sway.


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

When It comes down to it a 1/2 ton is a 1500 is a 1/2 ton no matter what upgrades or modifications you make. I built my Chevy 1500(before I was towing) with a 6.0 vortec max, axles/suspension from a 3500 and the allison 5 speed tranny. At the time it was more for show than anything, but now that I am towing it does help out.

Now I can say that I have the power and torque of the 3500, but I am still sitting on the frame of a 1500 that can and does flex more than the frame of a 3500.

I have my hitch set up to the point where I dont get any sway, but rather when a tractor trailer goes by me the whole truck and trailer pulls in towards the tractor trailer.


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## Hanson (Jul 27, 2009)

outback loft said:


> When It comes down to it a 1/2 ton is a 1500 is a 1/2 ton no matter what upgrades or modifications you make. I built my Chevy 1500(before I was towing) with a 6.0 vortec max, axles/suspension from a 3500 and the allison 5 speed tranny. At the time it was more for show than anything, but now that I am towing it does help out.
> 
> Now I can say that I have the power and torque of the 3500, but I am still sitting on the frame of a 1500 that can and does flex more than the frame of a 3500.
> 
> I have my hitch set up to the point where I dont get any sway, but rather when a tractor trailer goes by me the whole truck and trailer pulls in towards the tractor trailer.


Dumb question, but is the framer really differnt in what you are talking about. I mean door, fenders, box sides are all interchangable on the older 1500,2500 and 3500's. I don't believe GM actually build a different truck, I may be wrong, but I can't see it. Also my dealer just explained to me that the suspension is completely different in the tahoe, suburban, and avalanche as compared to the pickups, therefore giving more towability with a pickup vs. the suv. I myself just got rid of the 1500 avalanche and replaced it with a 07 tundra with the 5.7. Trailer Life mag just had a towing guide with all the specs listed for the differnt trucks out there. Funny thing is there are many 3/4 tons out there will less towing capacity than the tundra. I really believe that folks think that just because its a 3/4 ton, it will be better. What really matters is how it is set up with motor, gears, tow packages, etc. Just by 2 bits.


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## clarkely (Sep 15, 2008)

Hanson said:


> When It comes down to it a 1/2 ton is a 1500 is a 1/2 ton no matter what upgrades or modifications you make. I built my Chevy 1500(before I was towing) with a 6.0 vortec max, axles/suspension from a 3500 and the allison 5 speed tranny. At the time it was more for show than anything, but now that I am towing it does help out.
> 
> Now I can say that I have the power and torque of the 3500, but I am still sitting on the frame of a 1500 that can and does flex more than the frame of a 3500.
> 
> I have my hitch set up to the point where I dont get any sway, but rather when a tractor trailer goes by me the whole truck and trailer pulls in towards the tractor trailer.


Dumb question, but is the framer really differnt in what you are talking about. I mean door, fenders, box sides are all interchangable on the older 1500,2500 and 3500's. I don't believe GM actually build a different truck, I may be wrong, but I can't see it. Also my dealer just explained to me that the suspension is completely different in the tahoe, suburban, and avalanche as compared to the pickups, therefore giving more towability with a pickup vs. the suv. I myself just got rid of the 1500 avalanche and replaced it with a 07 tundra with the 5.7. Trailer Life mag just had a towing guide with all the specs listed for the differnt trucks out there. Funny thing is there are many 3/4 tons out there will less towing capacity than the tundra. I really believe that folks think that just because its a 3/4 ton, it will be better. What really matters is how it is set up with motor, gears, tow packages, etc. Just by 2 bits.
[/quote]

In suburbans & tahoes, yes they are different than a pick up.......... they have softer sidewall tires and Coil Springs as opposed to a pick up having leaf springs.... that Changes when you go to a 2500 Suburban.

when you go to a 3/4 or 1 ton, you are getting heavier springs, heavier rated axles, brakes etc.

I cannot speak on behalf of the Tundra, i know they are nice trucks & I hear good things about them, there are several Tundra owners on here that can give good informative advice, from what i have seen on here it is a Nice Reliable Truck, and people who have them love them.

As far as ratings go, they are by Determined by the Manufacturer.......... if you do a search on here i know there was a topic on a sequoia (Short wheelbase on that) that was rated to pull 9700 lbs. It is smaller/lighter and much less of truck than a 3/4 ton burb, yet it is rated to pull more....... so sometimes ratings are not all what they say....

Air bags/helpers, E rated tires will do more than increase comfort, they will make your Combination safer if applied correctly, they will not do anything for the "manufacturer ratings"


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

Hanson said:


> Funny thing is there are many 3/4 tons out there will less towing capacity than the tundra. I really believe that folks think that just because its a 3/4 ton, it will be better. What really matters is how it is set up with motor, gears, tow packages, etc. Just by 2 bits.


Towing capacity is a number that the various manufacturers throw out there and, as such, it is more a matter of motor(power) and gearing than anything else. What counts in good towing manners are things like long wheelbase, tire size and inflation, how a trailer is loaded, etc.

My $0.02

Bill


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

I would start by tilting the head a little more to get more pressure in the spring bars.

What size bars are you using??

I found that moving from the 800lb bars to the 1000bars made a world of difference when using the Dual Cam setup. The bars themselves are longer, and a lot less "flexy".

You won't ever get rid of the push/pull from a semi unless you buy a fifth wheel. The aerodynamics are different then. I don't get any of that now that we have a fiver.


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## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

I'm sure Nathan will chime in, but I'm pretty sure there is more to GVWR and towing capacity than just power and gears.

I was upset when I joined this forum to find out that I might be putting my family and others in danger with my setup (2003 expy pulling my 310BHS) although I was within my weight limits (according to a CAT scale). Still, it only took one time of nearly losing complete control to stop that action.

Not a matter of preference at all, its a matter of safety. Just PM me if you have further questions because I have become a firm believer in following those ratings.

OK, that and my wife just likes being in bigger vehicles too









--JT


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

cookie9933 said:


> Funny thing is there are many 3/4 tons out there will less towing capacity than the tundra. I really believe that folks think that just because its a 3/4 ton, it will be better. What really matters is how it is set up with motor, gears, tow packages, etc. Just by 2 bits.


Towing capacity is a number that the various manufacturers throw out there and, as such, it is more a matter of motor(power) and gearing than anything else. What counts in good towing manners are things like long wheelbase, tire size and inflation, how a trailer is loaded, etc.

My $0.02

Bill
[/quote]
Exactly Bill!
_edited... and JT!!!_

Engine power, gears, # of speeds on the transmission only accelerate the load quicker. Safety is handling emergency manuvers and stopping. 1/2 ton's don't have anywhere near the frame of 3/4 and 1 tons. They also don't have the suspension. My truck also has a decent wheelbase for hauling the bigger trailers. These things can be the difference between recovering from a bad situation, and ending up in the ditch or guardrail. As for stopping, brakes comes in. Sure your outback has brakes, but your stopping distance will be reduced with the OB attached. A 3/4 or 1 ton truck will do better on stopping that load.

You know it's funny because I've seen each of these trucks disassembled. When you lay out the pieces side by side, you can easily see through the advertising claims and see where the real importance is. I'd take _any_ 3/4 ton over _any_ 1/2 ton any day.

Now even with these things you aren't invincible. My rig weighs over 10 tons when loaded for a 3 week vacation. There's no way to make that handle as well as a car.








I'm not saying the only way to go is a 1 ton, but being someone who towed with both a 1/2 ton and a 1 ton, I can say, I have experienced both and the difference is night and day.


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## flexdog1 (Jan 24, 2010)

ok folks, here is the report.... I started this post, so I suppose I owe everyone an update. Thanks for all the replies.

Went to to a test drive today with the 310BQ. (inluded is a picture of the rig.) I purposely did not have any Weight Distribution (new trailer anyway), and no anti-sway bars. Just the hitch/ball and the camper with brakes and lights hooked up. I have a Prodigy brake controller.

I was really impressed with the pulling power of the Tundra. I took it out on the interstate - 15 miles out at 62mph, and 15 miles back at 68 mph. Had a big hill in there and the Tundra never groaned over 3k on the tach. Impressive!

We bounced around a little without the WD bars and because it is a heavy rig, but I personally didn't feel at risk at all. For me (and believe me, I see there are many opinions) I believe we will be OK with the Reese Straighline that I already own, and then maybe look into some tires and suspension mods. After reading everyone posts, and what I experienced today, I can tell that these OEM radials are not made for towing this kind of weight.

I sure have learned a lot doing this. I just got this truck in October, so I want to make sure I am not trading it a year from now due to the new TT.

Next question...airbags or added leaf springs. Will start another post on that one.

Thanks again everyone!
-scott


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## outback loft (Sep 22, 2008)

Hanson said:


> When It comes down to it a 1/2 ton is a 1500 is a 1/2 ton no matter what upgrades or modifications you make. I built my Chevy 1500(before I was towing) with a 6.0 vortec max, axles/suspension from a 3500 and the allison 5 speed tranny. At the time it was more for show than anything, but now that I am towing it does help out.
> 
> Now I can say that I have the power and torque of the 3500, but I am still sitting on the frame of a 1500 that can and does flex more than the frame of a 3500.
> 
> I have my hitch set up to the point where I dont get any sway, but rather when a tractor trailer goes by me the whole truck and trailer pulls in towards the tractor trailer.


Dumb question, but is the framer really differnt in what you are talking about. I mean door, fenders, box sides are all interchangable on the older 1500,2500 and 3500's. I don't believe GM actually build a different truck, I may be wrong, but I can't see it. Also my dealer just explained to me that the suspension is completely different in the tahoe, suburban, and avalanche as compared to the pickups, therefore giving more towability with a pickup vs. the suv. I myself just got rid of the 1500 avalanche and replaced it with a 07 tundra with the 5.7. Trailer Life mag just had a towing guide with all the specs listed for the differnt trucks out there. Funny thing is there are many 3/4 tons out there will less towing capacity than the tundra. I really believe that folks think that just because its a 3/4 ton, it will be better. What really matters is how it is set up with motor, gears, tow packages, etc. Just by 2 bits.
[/quote]

The frame is different. On the 1500 the frame is 6" tall and is open in the inside (c shaped) on the 3500 the frame is 8" and is boxed. The frame on a tahoe, suburban or avalanche is similar to that of the pickups, but it is a different frame. The frame on the tundra (at least under the bed) is only 4" and I believe it is open on the inside (c shaped). According to Toyota, the truck can tow 10,400, but has a payload capacity of 1,530 ( i beleive that is the spec) so even when you have a trailer that is within the 10,400 tow capacity, the tongue weight is usually the limiting factor. I have a payload capacity of 1,500+or- and am only rated for 8,800 pounds (as the truck was delivered new). I have my 2009 27L scaled at 6,400 loaded, and a tongue weight of 670 with a full tank of water, and full propane. I have towed the trailer without WD bars and besides the sway the bouncing is horrible when you hit any bumps.

I can also say that the difference between towing with a 1/2 ton over a 1 ton is night and day. But the reason I tow with my 1/2 ton is because I do beach camping, and the 1/2 ton does better in the sand than the 1 ton dually. The 1/2 ton although it has a smaller wheelbase, has also been better for getting into most of my campgrounds because they are very tight to get into, and have trees in just the right spots to make it almost impossible to get into a lot of spots with larger rigs, and forget about getting into them in a motorhome.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

flexdog1 said:


> Next question...airbags or added leaf springs. Will start another post on that one.
> 
> Thanks again everyone!
> -scott


Air bags, hands down the better option and invest in a on board compressor to adjust them on the move.


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## clarkely (Sep 15, 2008)

CamperAndy said:


> Next question...airbags or added leaf springs. Will start another post on that one.
> 
> Thanks again everyone!
> -scott


Air bags, hands down the better option and invest in a on board compressor to adjust them on the move.
[/quote]

I like air bags/compressor onboard and the ability to adjust while driving. I will adjust for the condition of the road, and it is nice to have that option.


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## Just Add Dirt (May 5, 2009)

My turn to chime in.. 
When I was buying my TV in 2008, I went to Toyota, & Dodge and Ford and when I got to Ford they had a cut-away sample of the frame on a Dodge, GM, Toyota and Ford; the difference between the thickness of the metal and the overall size of the sample frame was astounding. They had the 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton and 1 ton cutouts all side-by-side. Fords 3/4 & 1 tons were significantly much more heavy duty: so I bought A 2008 F-250 just as a TV.
One time I towed my 28KRS with my 2009 F-150 1/2 ton with a tow capacity of 9900 LBS to the local repair shop and all I can say is forget it...even with a suspension modification it would still be the tail wagging the dog; HUGE difference between the F-150 and the F-250.
I actually had an additional leaf added to the springs on my 2008 F-250 to boost it to a 1.5 ton capacity to handle the ATV in the bed and the TT on hitch with another ATV in the Kargoroo garage, and when I am tooling along at 70MPH I only feel the whole rig wiggle a little when an 18 wheeler blows by me. I had to add a leveling kit to the front; the suspension modification added about 2"of lift to the truck F & R. When she's empty she rides stiff as h#ll. 
.02
Just Add Dirt


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

Scott,

Sounds like you're getting it dialed in. I would say that the push/pull from passing trucks can be a little uncomfortable but it is not sway. I've experienced both and the passing vehicle push/pull is just an annoyance. Sway is very scary, violent and sudden. If you're hitch is setup properly the push/pull will not turn into sway (my experience & opinion). A large truck is moving a lot of air and I don't care what kind of truck/trailer/hitch you've got it's going to affect you. You can feel it in your car it's just not that significant since the area of your car is small compared the the truck/trailer. There have been some good suggestions here on things that will make you're truck more stable and if you're looking for upgrades I would have to say some LT tires and airbags would probably be the best overall. You might also want to check your current tires to see what they have listed for max cold pressure. When we had our Expedition it said to run them at 35 psi but the tire sidewalls listed 45 psi as the max. I found that pumping the rear ones up to 45 psi helped with the handling. I tried pumping the front ones higher as well but the ride was terrible.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

We need to remember that the trailer can make all of the difference too. Take a front kitchen trailer and a rear kitchen. Any rear kitchen trailer naturally has more ability to sway because of weight balance. A front kitchen trailer has a heavier tongue weight and its more stable.

This goes for weight balance in the trailer also. If you are getting more movement than you like, try adjusting some weight forward.

As for air pressure on e rated tires. When towing bumper pulls I get better stability at around 2/3rds of recommended air pressure then at 100%.

I generally run around 50psi using my dually and that goes for any bumper pull. I go to around 65-70 on 5ers. A maxed out tire has the tendancy to dance around and tread squirm is also enhanced. I like to see some sidewall buldge. That way I have a good flat footprint on the ground. So I play with pressure till I see the buldge that I know works.

You for sure need to tilt back the hitch head. Id go about 30% more than what you have now.

You need to measure the fender height and play with the hitch till they are both close to eachother.

If your hitch is setup properly you shouldnt feel much semi truck movement.

I get semi truck movement with any trailer under the right circumstance. And thats wind, road angle/crown and if there are ruts in my lane from semi trucks. Yes even large 5ers will move when a semi passes if the conditions for it are right.

The number one reason a person isnt happy with there 1/2 tons is improper hitch setup. When going to a 3/4 ton the hitch setup isnt as important so people tend to think its 3/4 or nothing.

I can tell you, I drive many many miles each day. I see 1 properly set up hitch out of a good 10 that arent.

Few people take the time or even understand the physic capabilities of there hitches. Even fewer could even care.

If your straight line reese is set up properly you will see a night and day difference especially using a 1/2 ton truck.

If people had there hitches setup properly they would be much happier with there 1/2 tons.

You gotta remember that the new 1/2 ton has every bit as much ability and strength as the old 3/4 tons.

Just think of the stuff our dads done with there 3/4 tons. These were trucks of the 60's. 70's and 80's. Our present 1/2 tons have as much or more ability than those trucks. I wouldnt give up on your toyota till you have spent a good afternoon with hitch setup. Learn what your hitch does and why it does it. Learn what adjustments help or hinder.

Your hitch is just as safe leaned all the way back as it is standing straight up. Be sure to read and re-read the directions for your hitch.

Carey


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## 4 Outbackers (Mar 5, 2008)

I have had many TV / Trailer combos over the years and have experienced the same sway probelm from passing trucks.
My current combination seems to be the right mix, nothing fancy just some straight forward hardware. I tow with an F150 supercrew and tow a 2008 25rss, it is lashed up with a Reese hitch canted forward slightly with 1000 lbs equalizing bars and a Draw tight sway control bar.There is only a slight "push" if a truck passes me quickly but it is hardly noticable. With different vehicle combinations in the past it was a "white knuckle" ride.
My point is it is possible to tow with a 1/2 ton and minimize any sway issues, you just need to study your hitch set up (providing your tv is rated to handle your trailer) and make some adjustments.


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

As Carey said you really need to take a fair amount of time to get whatever hitch you have setup properly. When I first started towing the OB using the Equalizer it took several tries to get it dialed in. I started following the directions and then made minor adjustments to fine tune it. It took a while but it was well worth the effort. With my Expedition I never fully got rid of the passing truck push pull but it never induced sway. Oddly enough the one thing that did seem to really help with the push pull was mounting my bicycles on the roof of the Expedition. It seemed like the bikes changed the airflow around the trailer so that the effect of passing trucks was greatly reduced.


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## ftwildernessguy (Oct 12, 2009)

Can't say I would agree with Dirtbiker's tire inflation recommendations. Underinflation is one of the primary reasons for tire failure. Operating at 2/3 of the recommended pressure, or looking for a "sidewall bulge" sounds a bit dangerous to me.


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## LTCMontana (Jan 18, 2010)

I don't believe Carey meant to say 2/3rds of recommended. I'm guessing he emant 2/3rds of max. That's a big difference.


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

Tires dont have a recommended air pressure rating. They have a max weight rating at so much psi.

My tire show they can support 3085lbs at 80 psi.

My door sticker shows a recommended psi rating of 65psi when loaded and a 40psi rating when empty.

When I pull bumper pulls my rear axle weighs around 7000lbs. Having 4 tires with 80 psi in them for this weight is crazy. They tend to wear out in the middle and I have a loss of control because the tires dont have a flat foot print.

So I have found that airing them down to 50-55 psi works great. They have a nice flat foot print, a nice bildge, and I have great control over my trailer.

I get around 100k out of a set of tires reguardless of brand if I keep my tires pressure correct for the weight that they are supporting.

My front axle weighs 4300 empty. The front axle weighs 5000-5100 loaded with big 5ers.

5000lbs is still under the max of 6170 at 80 psi. So I run 65-70 in them when I weigh heavy. I keep about 60 in the front at all times anyway.

But on the rear I go from 40 to around 70psi depending on my weight.

Say your 3/4 ton has a 6000lb rear tires rating. But you truck only weighs 4500lbs on its rear axle. If you bring the psi down to say 65psi you will find that they wear nice, and have better control over the trailer because they arent riding in the middle of the tire. They will have a nice flat foot print too. And yes, a nice buldge too.

Go by what your door sticker says. If you actually weigh what the tire is rated for then by all means, air them to the max.

Carey


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## ftwildernessguy (Oct 12, 2009)

Did I say anything about the max rating on the tire sidewall? Nope, I was referring to the recommended pressure on the door of my vehicle, as I assumed you were since you also said recommended, not max in your post above. Eyeballing pressure based on the amount of tire bulge may work for an expert such as yourself, but for the majority of us, this could be disastrous as it is guess work at best and could lead to premature tire failure. Personally, I feel this recommendation is a dangerous one, and in fact a belief supported by the NTSB, major tire manufacturers, major auto and RV manufacturers, police departments, and the NHTSA has stated with radial tires it is impossible to determine whether or not a tire is under inflated by visual inspection. Need I go on?


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## Carey (Mar 6, 2012)

yes you do...

With passenger tires you are correct. They need to be fully pressurized. Whole other deal with LT tires. They are much stiffer and have many more plies. They need the correct pressure for the weight up to the max of say 80 psi for mine. Running 2000lbs and 50 psi in a tire rated for 3000 at 80 psi is totally safe for anyone with an LT tire.

LT tires are constructed entirely differnet than passenger car tires.

Im not argueing with ya anymore dude.. If your truck has LT tires air pressure should be used to equal the weight on the tire. No need to worry about NTSB and all that.. If you have a passenger tire then your door sticker will tell you to max it out.

Go ahead and keep telling me im wrong.

Quit picking on the buldge thing. The tire buldge is only part of what I use to know that im in the proper psi range for my weight. You cant single out and only use tire buldge. Tire buldge is one of the things that can be used in combination to decide wheather you are in the correct psi range for your weight.

Your truck will not handle well at all if you run 80 psi in the tires and not have it loaded. Your truck will also not handle as well if running full recommended psi when empty.

Most everyone here runs there LT tires low when empty and fills them when they tow anyway. This is common practice dude.

Carey


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## ftwildernessguy (Oct 12, 2009)

Well Carey, I guess we'll agree to disagree on that point and leave it at that. Regardless of what anybody says, what it comes down to is doing what you as an individual feel is safe for whatever reason. And by the way, I am not "dude."

Jim


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Don't make it personal or the posts go away.


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

Colorado~DirtBikers said:


> We need to remember that the trailer can make all of the difference too. Take a front kitchen trailer and a rear kitchen. Any rear kitchen trailer naturally has more ability to sway because of weight balance. A front kitchen trailer has a heavier tongue weight and its more stable.
> 
> This goes for weight balance in the trailer also. If you are getting more movement than you like, try adjusting some weight forward.
> 
> ...


QFT!!!

Carey is right on the money. When I had my 1/2 ton, it took a bit to get my hitch set up right but when I did, the anti-sway and towing stability performance was night and day better than the setup the dealer installed which was bad. I still got shoved around by semi's passing me. That was reduced by about 90% when we got our 3/4 ton. Hence my answer...if you want to really stop (reduce is a better word) that "semi shove" with a bumper pull, you need more TV. If you want to stop sway and increase towing stability, do what Carey says.

-CC


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## flexdog1 (Jan 24, 2010)

huntr70 said:


> I would start by tilting the head a little more to get more pressure in the spring bars.
> 
> What size bars are you using??
> 
> ...


Huntr70,
I am using 1200lb bars and a 12,000lb rate hitch...


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## flexdog1 (Jan 24, 2010)

MJRey said:


> Scott,
> 
> Sounds like you're getting it dialed in. I would say that the push/pull from passing trucks can be a little uncomfortable but it is not sway. I've experienced both and the passing vehicle push/pull is just an annoyance. Sway is very scary, violent and sudden. If you're hitch is setup properly the push/pull will not turn into sway (my experience & opinion). A large truck is moving a lot of air and I don't care what kind of truck/trailer/hitch you've got it's going to affect you. You can feel it in your car it's just not that significant since the area of your car is small compared the the truck/trailer. There have been some good suggestions here on things that will make you're truck more stable and if you're looking for upgrades I would have to say some LT tires and airbags would probably be the best overall. You might also want to check your current tires to see what they have listed for max cold pressure. When we had our Expedition it said to run them at 35 psi but the tire sidewalls listed 45 psi as the max. I found that pumping the rear ones up to 45 psi helped with the handling. I tried pumping the front ones higher as well but the ride was terrible.


Mark,
I checked ou the LT tires and turns out they don't make them for 20" rims, which is what this truck has. So, I am going to start with pumping up my passenger radials to 41psi and adding airbags. They do make an "extra load" P-rated tire for a 20" rim, so that may be the next set of new tires. I don't want to switch out rims, so this is what I will start with.

Thanks for all the help.
-scott


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## flexdog1 (Jan 24, 2010)

collinsfam_tx said:


> We need to remember that the trailer can make all of the difference too. Take a front kitchen trailer and a rear kitchen. Any rear kitchen trailer naturally has more ability to sway because of weight balance. A front kitchen trailer has a heavier tongue weight and its more stable.
> 
> This goes for weight balance in the trailer also. If you are getting more movement than you like, try adjusting some weight forward.
> 
> ...


QFT!!!

Carey is right on the money. When I had my 1/2 ton, it took a bit to get my hitch set up right but when I did, the anti-sway and towing stability performance was night and day better than the setup the dealer installed which was bad. I still got shoved around by semi's passing me. That was reduced by about 90% when we got our 3/4 ton. Hence my answer...if you want to really stop (reduce is a better word) that "semi shove" with a bumper pull, you need more TV. If you want to stop sway and increase towing stability, do what Carey says.

-CC
[/quote]

Thanks Curtis and Carey! I grew up on a farm, so playing around with the set-up until i get it right is NO PROBLEM!
The Tundra has tons of power, on the test pull, it never got above 3,000rpm even on a long hill....so, get the hitch and sway issues dialed in, and we will be good.
-scott


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

flexdog1 said:


> Mark,
> I checked ou the LT tires and turns out they don't make them for 20" rims, which is what this truck has. So, I am going to start with pumping up my passenger radials to 41psi and adding airbags. They do make an "extra load" P-rated tire for a 20" rim, so that may be the next set of new tires. I don't want to switch out rims, so this is what I will start with.
> 
> Thanks for all the help.
> -scott


Check out here: http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/searchTiresBySize.do;jsessionid=vtrLLyMY38fbsJDkv2KXyYdTTdGhGhhTTF4G2QvWy6T1yfRyldxhwlvx84LG3BM5yJRLp81dp6JtRvxd61hTvQN51xhqVQh0Tp0L9sLnVpz22FGPJMLQVLhrphby7Ld1!819707362!-1513998234?sw=false&cs=275&ar=65&rd=20
Not really sure what size you need but there are some LT's out there in 20".

As far as tire pressure, the label on the Dodge 3500 state to inflate the front to 60 psi and the rears to 50. Increase rear pressure to 65 when loaded. top pressure is 80 psi. When I had new tires put on and requested these pressures, the guy putting them on thought I was crazy, but they did it. One of the reasons to go to a LT D or E rating is that the sidewalls are stiffer and moves around less. A passenger tire flexs more making any sway a lot worse. Had that experience pulling a 2400 lb. pop-up with my Safari Van and some ballon tires I had on them. If the camper started swaying a little, the van then started moving around and if you weren't careful you looked like a fish in a mountain stream. Only way to handle it was to lock the front wheels strieght ahead, give a little gas and drive out of it.

I would agree that if you're going to pull a large camper, you need a large truck, not because you need the extra pulling power, but because you need enough truck to safely stop the rig. In the meantime, if you are going to do any major trips search around until you can get some LT E rated tires to fit your rims, get the airbag system and above all, slow down. things happen way to fast at 70 mph. Your going on a relaxing vacation, why be white knuckled all the way there when you are not going to loss that much time by going 55.(MHO)


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