# Installing Scissor Jacks



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

I picked up a set of BAL scissors style stabilizing jacks this weekend, and hope to get them installed tonight. To those who have done the same, any tips would be appreciated.

I am particularly concerned with how to deal with the belly pan (fit the flange under, or just crush the pan between the flange and frame)?

Also, are there going to be any issues fitting around the propane line in the left front corner. If memory serves, it does hang below the frame. Does this interfere with the mounting position of the jack?

Again, any tricks of the trade would be much appreciated!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Doug, I just went out and looked at how I installed mine. I went over the belly cover. I also had to move the propane line. If I remenber right all I had to do was to buy a 6-8" pipe nipple and 90 ell. Disassemble the flex end of the propane line and bracket, slide the existing line back and install the new nipple and 90 ell, then reassemble every thing. I also set the jacks so you can operate them from the sides. Kirk


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## gregjoyal (Jan 25, 2005)

I have done just the thing you are talking about... on a 28RSS. Some things to note:

1. The front jacks were mounted with the scissor front-to-back. The propane line was a HUGE problem as it runs right past where you'll want to mount the scissor jacks. In my opnion, the location of the line prevented me from mounting side-to-side in any meaningful way. The old stabilizers were thin enough to fit under the propane line - the BALs were not. I undid the line from the tanks all the back to the drain to give myself some room to work. Then I found the hidden part of the A-frame under the belly pan - the C channel sides of my trailer were not wide enough to mount the jacks. So two of the self-tapping screws are in one side of the C-channel and the other side are in the A-frame. I just cut the belly pan open and got a few extra self-taping screws with washers and fastened on either side.

2. The rear jacks were mounted with the scissor side-to-side. The C-channel was JUST wide enough to mount this way. I mounted them right at the back of the trailer where there is just enough room to get at them beside the rear step. The rear was a lot easier - except beware that C-channel frame is SUPER thick in one spot. I twisted the head right off the first self-taping screw I put into that thicker part. I drilled out the hole one size bigger for the others and didn't have any problems.

I'll try and take some pictures tonight...

Greg


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

On the fivers, they are mounted at a 45 degree angle to the chassis rail. Better stability, I assume.

John


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## gregjoyal (Jan 25, 2005)

I took some pictures tonight and uploaded them... I hope they are of some use!

My Scissor Jack Album


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Thanks for all the tips guys! Especially Greg for the photo's (They will help a lot).

I started working on the left front corner (Propane line) last night. As best I can determine, the primary load on the mounting screws themselves is holding the jacks to the trailer when they are retracted. Once the jacks are extended and tightened, I don't see any real load on them.

On mine, it's looking like the ideal mount may be to bolt to the transverse frame member that goes across the front of the trailer. It's much lighter weight, but I can get the jack in place so that it is straddling the main frame 'I' beam (which will take the load). Mounting like this requires no modification to the propane line location.

The other three corners look pretty straight forward.

Thanks again for the help. Now off to buy some new drill bits (You ain't kidding that steel is thick!)

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

On our 23RS, I ditched the self-tapping screws in favor of bolts, nuts, and lock washers. Moved the propane line in toward the center a couple of inches to get it off of the frame near the front jack. It has a bit of a bow, but not anything too bad.

I used a 3/4" steel plate to shim the front jack by the gas line down so there would be enough clearance when the jack is retracted. Sandwiched the covering between the frame and the jack flange, and dropped the underbelly covering enough to get my arms and a wrench underneath to tighten the bolts. It wasn't easy for the jack that was shimmed down, and I ended up cutting a flap in the covering to access the nuts/bolts.

Make sure you mount the jacks inward far enough from the front and back so you don't scrape them going up or down an incline. I learned the hard way and nearly ripped off the right-front jack (by the propane line) whe I went down a little uneven hill.....


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Insomniack,

The 3/4" spacers are the same conclusion I came to. And I am mounting directly to the main frame 'I' beam (as opposed to my my thought in an earlier post). Although on mine, I am not going to have to move the propane line at all. With the spacers everything will fit together great (yeah!). I can see that getting the inside bolts in place will be a challenge, but it's only two bolts in the one corner.

As far as ripping the jacks off... with my axle flip if I get into a situation where that will be an issue, I will have bigger problems to worry about than the jacks!

Thanks again for all the tips.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

PDX_Doug said:


> As far as ripping the jacks off... with my axle flip if I get into a situation where that will be an issue, I will have bigger problems to worry about than the jacks!


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## kjdj (Sep 14, 2004)

How do they feel? I was thinking of scissors but found heavier duty stabilizers might due the trick. Due to the small frame foot print I tend to think scissor jacks are great for lifting but not stabilizing.










This is what one guy did to solve the scissor problem.
Here is the whole article


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Done!

Finally!









Got the last of the four new jacks installed last night, and they are looking good! The jack by the rear door has less than 1/16" clearance from the steps when retracted (what a PITA that was to install), and I ended up with a 1" spacer between jack and frame to clear the propane line (about 1/8" when retracted).

I can't wait to try them out on the road to Zion!

Check one more thing off the list!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## gregjoyal (Jan 25, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> Done!
> 
> Finally!
> 
> ...


Ummm... I can't seem to find the pictures?


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## WhiteSoxFan (Mar 7, 2006)

Thanks so much for all the helpful information on this topic. I too, bought scissor jacks for improved stability. After reading this post, I installed the two rear jacks, with "minimal" trouble







.

I decided to install about 3 feet in from the end of the TT (I have a 28 RSDS). I couldn't figure a way to make them fit right at the end (corner). I'm not the handiest of OB owners, so I went with what I could figure out.

Now for the two front jacks. I'm going to try the 1" spacer idea PDX Doug and others suggested, with the hopes of not having to move the gas line in the front left corner.

Thanks again for all the suggestions/recommendations!


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## Reverie (Aug 9, 2004)

I want to install the BAL Jacks on the 28BHS. Has anyone done this and do you have advice before I get started?

Thanks,

Reverie


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