# Duramax Diesel Questions



## Lazybonz(aka Bill) (Sep 23, 2006)

HEY folks
I just got my new 2007 Chevy with Duramax/Allison.
I have a couple of questions or looking for opinions.









1- Do I/ should I use any kind of diesel fuel additive. Do you Duramax guys use any...what kind...results etc? The owners manual is pretty non commital on the subject except to say they won't recommend any and NOT to put any that contain alcohol or waxes. I don't want to louse up my GM warranty either.

2- Same question but with synthetic motor oil. what kind, when, break in period results etc?
Any insight would help.
This truck has got to last a long long time!

Thanks


----------



## redmonaz (Jul 24, 2006)

Bill,
I've had my Duramax about 6 monthes. I don't use any fuel additives but I live in southern Arizona so cold temperatures are not an issue. I try to buy my fuel from a busy truck stop, also the best price in town. There is a fuel filter that needs to be changed about every 12,000 miles. A friend has the 03 model and he had a recall on the fuel filter. From what I understand they reduced the particulate size rating of the filter. I haven't replaced mine yet, but I plan on buying it from the dealer. 
I have looked at the synthetic oils, but everyone says you need to run it for many thousands of miles to break the engine in before going to synthetics. I talked to the dealer about the waranty and the best way to make the truck last. He said change the oil at 3K, coolant at 30K and don't use a tuner, it will cut the life of your engine to 100k miles. (I know some people use and love them, but I have plenty of pwer for me.) The other thing he has seen is people using biodiesel. They had one truck come back with drivability issues. When they removed the fuel filter there was deep fried breading clogging it.
In six monthes my milage has increased almost a mile a gallon. I have seen this change on the trip computer and my hand calculations (Distance/Gallons). 
You mention the manual, I agree! You may try the service manuals from helminc.com. They are about $120. I had one for my '99 Tahoe and I felt it was well worth the money. 
Good luck with your new truck. I hope to still be driving mine in 15+ years.
Don


----------



## RJLLERENA (Sep 24, 2006)

Lazybonz(aka Bill) said:


> HEY folks
> I just got my new 2007 Chevy with Duramax/Allison.
> I have a couple of questions or looking for opinions.
> 
> ...


 On the transmission side you change the red external filter( be careful not to throw away the magnet) at 5000 miles and the best oil is Transynd you buy this at the Allison dealer. you can also go to www.allisontransmission.com and they have some stuff on pickup trucks.

the 5k for the external filter it is on the commercial side see your manual to be safe.


----------



## Lazybonz(aka Bill) (Sep 23, 2006)

So I guess you are NOT using the built in oil change/ service indicators on the truck? My dealer says just wait for the change oil message to come on. hmmmm Now I am wondering?
Bill


----------



## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Hi, Bill.
Mine's the Dodge Cummins diesel, and no additives were recommended by my dealer. Had my first oil change done around 5500 miles. Sure will be glad when that odometer rolls around to 12,000 miles!! They said the MPG will start improving then.........I'm waiting, but not too patiently!!















Darlene


----------



## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

Lazybonz(aka Bill) said:


> HEY folks
> I just got my new 2007 Chevy with Duramax/Allison.
> I have a couple of questions or looking for opinions.
> 
> ...


I have been using synthetic oils for close to 30 years. I started out selling them through a direct marketing company ( which later folded) that was in competition with Amsoil. We didn't have a 2stroke oil but Amsoil did and I have used it ever since. My personal preferrence is the Amsoil for my pickup and cars. My last van had 168,000 miles on it when I sold it and it didn't use any more oil than when it was new. I run it in my 5.3 Silverado and get 20.5 mpg on local driving. You should be able to get all your synthetic questions answered here.
http://www.amsoil.com/


----------



## mv945 (Jul 18, 2006)

Bill,
Congrats on the truck! If you haven't found this website yet I'm sure you will spend some time here:

http://www.dieselplace.com


----------



## dancinmon (Oct 5, 2004)

I bought my 05 Duramax with 44K on it and it now has 55K one year later. Last night I pulled onto a highway and pressed the accelerator and the truck bogged down and didn't want to gain speed. It did it a couple more times and then everything was back to normal. Temp was about 14 degrees. Now I'm wondering if the fuel filter is plugged after Don said they need to be replaced every 12K. I think I'll take her in and get a new one installed just to be safe.

Another problem I had was a clunking noise in my steering column. I thought it was something loose in the steering linkages. It made the most noise when going around corners. A friend works at the local Chevy dealer in the parts department. He told me that the steering shaft has to be removed and a special grease put in it to stop the clunking. He said they were replacing the shafts at one time but now just grease them. Cost was about $80. That took care of the clunking. Not sure if 06's will have the same problem - hopefully they fixed the design on the newer models.

While I was under the truck looking for the clunking I discover the right inner tie rod end had about a 1/4" of play in it and the others where tight. The tire would move back and forth about 3/4". Chevy dealer said a new tie rod end would be $105 and $44 to put it in and $44 for a wheel alingment. My buddy in the parts dept. found me a replacement tie rod end for $48 so that fix only cost me $136 instead of $193.


----------



## redmonaz (Jul 24, 2006)

Lazybonz(aka Bill) said:


> So I guess you are NOT using the built in oil change/ service indicators on the truck? My dealer says just wait for the change oil message to come on. hmmmm Now I am wondering?
> Bill


I had the oil changed at 1K miles, dealer freebie. It has been about 4K miles since then and the oil life is still around 70%. If I wait for the message to change it, it will be greater than 10K miles. I know I could wait, but I would hate to put 9K on the oil in a new engine and turbo. I am just looking at it as cheap insurance, especially on the new engine with things wearing in.

My wifes car has the oil life indicator as well, I wait for that one to tell me its time to change the oil. (or should I say I wait for it to tell my wife who tells me







) That car has 136K on it and still runs strong! So I don't see any reason not to beleive the indicator, I just want this truck to last a looooong time.
Don


----------



## Swany (Mar 2, 2006)

dancinmon said:


> I bought my 05 Duramax with 44K on it and it now has 55K one year later. Last night I pulled onto a highway and pressed the accelerator and the truck bogged down and didn't want to gain speed. It did it a couple more times and then everything was back to normal. Temp was about 14 degrees. Now I'm wondering if the fuel filter is plugged after Don said they need to be replaced every 12K. I think I'll take her in and get a new one installed just to be safe.
> 
> Another problem I had was a clunking noise in my steering column. I thought it was something loose in the steering linkages. It made the most noise when going around corners. A friend works at the local Chevy dealer in the parts department. He told me that the steering shaft has to be removed and a special grease put in it to stop the clunking. He said they were replacing the shafts at one time but now just grease them. Cost was about $80. That took care of the clunking. Not sure if 06's will have the same problem - hopefully they fixed the design on the newer models.
> 
> While I was under the truck looking for the clunking I discover the right inner tie rod end had about a 1/4" of play in it and the others where tight. The tire would move back and forth about 3/4". Chevy dealer said a new tie rod end would be $105 and $44 to put it in and $44 for a wheel alingment. My buddy in the parts dept. found me a replacement tie rod end for $48 so that fix only cost me $136 instead of $193.


So how does a $50k truck wear out a tie rod end in two years and 44K miles?


----------



## Bill H (Nov 25, 2006)

O.K..... I'm confused -









My dealer told me to change the oil every 10k or when the "Oil Life" meter was down to 0%. Also, to change the fuel filter at at the same time...... What gives? It was also advised above to change the trans oil @ 5K but said nothing after that.....

-Bill


----------



## Swany (Mar 2, 2006)

Lazybonz(aka Bill) said:


> HEY folks
> I just got my new 2007 Chevy with Duramax/Allison.
> I have a couple of questions or looking for opinions.
> 
> ...


Does any of yous guys know of a Duramax forum I can brows around in?


----------



## MattS (Oct 15, 2006)

Swany said:


> Does any of yous guys know of a Duramax forum I can brows around in?


http://www.dieselplace.com


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Bill,

Nice choice in trucks.

As far as additives Stanadyne is GM approved. I use it and swear buy it, and you will likely pickup a MPG or 2 , I did. I use it every other tankful.

As for oil changes my first year are on the dealer but after that I will use Amsoil 15W-40. Note of caution on oil types. Make sure it is CI-4 rating. Only diesels oils have that rating and to my knowledge only Amsoil has a 15W-40 that has the CI-4 Rating. Mobil 1 is a 5W-40 and so is Castrol. The owners manual says only use 15W-40 or in winter 10W-40. Once I go with Amsoil I will change in Spring and then again fall which should be at about 7,000 mile intervals. If you want to increase your oil change interval then you can install a EGR blocker plate. I'm contemplating that but I still worry about voiding the 100K warranty. I will do Fuel Filter changes at 10K and will always carry a spare in the truck just in case.

Transynd is the correct fluid as noted in a previous post and I will probably do a full trans flush every other year and a filter change once a year.

If you want a website that talks about the Duramax go to Dieselplace. I greatly caution you though. There is about 1 person in 100 who actually knows something but they have a DIY, (Do It Yourself) section which helps with fuel filter changes, etc. LMAO ---you can even be beta tester for one of the chips. Think that is so funny because those "tuners" can't even do the testing themselves they want us to test there stuff in our $40K trucks, go figure! Off the soap box!


----------



## Sluggo54 (Jun 15, 2005)

1. No. The book says not to. As long as there is a warranty, and probably longer, I will do what the General recommends.

2. Maybe - but maybe not. A synth oil change is darned expensive, and at the rate I put on miles, I will stick with the Rotella T. Oh, and at the last change (Eidson Chev in Sulphur, OK) Rotella was six bucks less than Goodwrench. I will stick with what is available anywhere. I have never gone to zero on the oil life indicator, nor do I change at 3,000 miles. 40 - 50% just feels right, with absolutely no evidence to back that up. I've never had a lubrication related failure, in 47 years of driving, as much as 250,000 miles on a vehicle.

3. Book says to change trans filter at first service. That was done. I also did a 1000 mile first "chip change" on the engine oil.

4. The steering shaft clunkage (to quote Ava Gardner) has been around since '91. Dealer service guys tell me it has to be regreased at about 10,000 mile intervals, and I am there again. The earlier replacements didn't change anything; still needed regreasing at 10K miles.

5. Book also says - "no bio-diesel". Sniff my tailpipe if you must, you will not smell french fries!

Sluggo

62 in Flint, TX this afternoon.


----------



## Northern Wind (Nov 21, 2006)

Lazybonez(aka Bill) said:


> HEY folks
> I just got my new 2007 Chevy with Duramax/Allison.
> I have a couple of questions or looking for opinions.
> 
> ...


Nice truck, I don't know if I can help but this is what I have learned over the years, and I do on average drive 100,000 Klm per year.
I drive Fords and have for over 30 years. The last truck I traded had 501,000 Klms on it and always have been very religious about oil changes every 5,000 Klm and usually run additives in every other tank. I also tend to run upgraded diesel fuels when available, I also never let the tank go below 1/4 full. change full filter when expected and air filer as well.
I have had 14 Ford trucks 6 being diesel and have always found regular maintenance and especially oil changes make a difference. Also listen to your vehicle and learn what it sounds like, often sound is your first sign of trouble.

Steve


----------



## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

My sons 05 has a clunk in the steering shaft and the dealer said he fixed it under a recall notice.

I use Shell rotella synthetic in mine and my sons truck.

John


----------



## Lazybonz(aka Bill) (Sep 23, 2006)

OK
I spoke with the service manager at the Chevy dealership where I got my Duramax.
He said GM only sold and recognized one diesel additive and that is *Stanadyne Preformance Formula*.
Use of Stanadyne according to the directions will not void your warranty. They even sell it at GM parts/service depts. The new ultra low sulfer fuels may not provide all the lubrication we need, and in North Dakota, I need a anti-gell. Stanadyne does both.

As far as synthetic oil, they use and recommend Mobil 1. 
He also recommends following the trucks oil change indicator as outlined in th owners manual.
Of course, I can do things more frequently if I desire.

They will do the "first oil change and service "on the house!

I will probably bring the truck in at 3000 miles for the first freebee after a break in peroid, have them change the oil and all filters, and then go with the owners manual.

Thanks all








BILL


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Bill,

Be careful on the Mobil 1 and see my previous post as well as your owners manual. Mobil 1 with CI-4 rating is 5W-40. Owners manual says only 10W-40 or 15W-40. It says that in black and white which you can standby instead of the Service Mangers word of mouth. Mobil does sell non-sythetic which is 15W-40 and CI-4 rated but the name is escaping me now. Sure can find it in Walmart though!

Mike C

John,

There is a permanent fix for the steering shaft clunk. Little pricey though!

http://www.borgeson.com/TruckProductChevy.htm


----------



## Lazybonz(aka Bill) (Sep 23, 2006)

Thanks Mike
Yes I saw the issues with Mobil 1 too. 
I will stick with the owners manual for sure.
If I decide to use synthetic oil after break in, It will be of the proper type.

Bill


----------



## Hick24/7 (Nov 17, 2006)

http://www.nwbombers.com/

Bill check out this site and you will find out a ton of information from many knowledgeable people.

You will be flying by them gas motors now, I have not quit figures out why somene would buy somthing like a 1/2 ton titan to pull around a trailer.

Honk as you fly by!!


----------



## rms0726ea (Aug 9, 2006)

NJMikeC said:


> Bill,
> 
> Be careful on the Mobil 1 and see my previous post as well as your owners manual. Mobil 1 with CI-4 rating is 5W-40. Owners manual says only 10W-40 or 15W-40. It says that in black and white which you can standby instead of the Service Mangers word of mouth. Mobil does sell non-sythetic which is 15W-40 and CI-4 rated but the name is escaping me now. Sure can find it in Walmart though!
> 
> ...


*Bill,

I would recommend doing an oil analysis from a place like www.blackstone-labs.com or Amsoil's OAI testing (http://www.oaitesting.com/). It only cost $20 and is more than worth it considering the large investment in these trucks. Blackstone will send you your first kit for free







. The analysis will give you a clear picture of how your engine is wearing/breaking in on the inside (i.e. iron, copper, etc levels) and can also give you a pre-warning to any possible component failures. In addition, it will tell you how well your air filtration system is doing and how your truck compares to the universal average. Also, a great tool if you plan to run extended oil changes. Check out the sample reports on the website - it's good info. Cheap insurance, just my 2 cents....









P.S. Nice truck*


----------



## redmonaz (Jul 24, 2006)

White Buffalo,
Thanks for the info on the oil analysis. I have been meaning to post that question, but hings at work have been a little busy lately. 
I had an alalysis done on my Tahoe when it spun a main bearing, very good information on the report.
Of course it was by the warrenty company who were looking to get out of paying for the replacment engine. They said the oil looked new, but had some contaminants in it. I talked to the tech that took the sample. It turned out the warranty company rep did not have a proper kit so he used an old transmission fluid bottle to collect it from the removed oil pan. They paid for the engine.
Don


----------



## rms0726ea (Aug 9, 2006)

redmonaz said:


> White Buffalo,
> Thanks for the info on the oil analysis. I have been meaning to post that question, but hings at work have been a little busy lately.
> I had an alalysis done on my Tahoe when it spun a main bearing, very good information on the report.
> Of course it was by the warrenty company who were looking to get out of paying for the replacment engine. They said the oil looked new, but had some contaminants in it. I talked to the tech that took the sample. It turned out the warranty company rep did not have a proper kit so he used an old transmission fluid bottle to collect it from the removed oil pan. They paid for the engine.
> Don


No problem man, it's one of the best tools out there...


----------



## outbackinMT (Oct 7, 2006)

I am a Technician at a local repair shop. Thursday night we went to a Duramax class put on by AC Delco. 
They handed us a bulletin(#03-06-04-017c) that states the use of diesel fuel additives is not required or recommended for theDuramax diesel under normal conditions. 
If Customer desires to use a fuel additive, you may use GM Diesel Fuel Conditioner p/n 88861009 or both *Racor Power Shot Plus and Stanadyne Diesel fuel additives. All are alchol free and utilize water demulsifiers to cope with water in fuel.

I use Stanadyne in my diesel in the winter and have had no problems. I dont know what GM considers normal driving conditions but I bet they havent spent to much time in the cold Nothern winters.

As far as oil goes that seems to be a personal perference.They did say that you should use the GM oil filter p/n 97214983 because during cold start the oil pressure can be over 100 psi and some aftermarket filters will blow apart. That was something I had not heard of before.

Hope you enjoy your new truck. My dad has had one since 01 and loves it and abuses it . Still going strong with over a 100,000 miles on it.

Kory


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

I am taking delivery tomorrow on my new TV, GMC sierra 2500HD Crew Cab with 6.6 DuraMax and Allison 6 speed Trans. I will ask the questions about fuel additives and oil change schedules. We have a 04 Envoy and have been told to follow the oil life indicator regarding the oil changes. It goes a long time between oil changes, but not below 25% on the indicator. I have been told that these diesels can go longer between oil changes, but the changes requires synthetics and all filter changes. This essentially balances out the cost of gas engine maintenance of oil changes every 5Kmiles. The other question I am going to ask is how much the first service will cost. Sounds like it comes free for a lot of new owners. wish me luck!! Oh, I am moving from a 2000 Sierra 1500 that has 160K miles on her. Extended cab, 5.3 engine with 4.10 rear end HD tow package, etc. I just do not think it will do the job with a 28krs behind it. Even though it is rated to tow 9500lbs and I would be in just under that weight , there is not much of the "safety factor" I have read so much about here. So, Merry Christmas!! New truck and new camper!
david


----------



## Lazybonz(aka Bill) (Sep 23, 2006)

David
Congrats on the truck and all.
I just put the first 800 miles on my Duramax this week.
I towed the Outback to Bismarck ND for some warranty work.
I couldn't believe the difference between the old 1/2 ton gasser and the new Duramax.
You won't be dissappointted.
I am already seeing 17-20 MPG unloaded on the highway and probably 10 -12 mpg with the trailer.
But 100 miles of towing is not a fair test yet.
Yea I have the sdame questions about additives and oils as you.
The best I can figure is to break in the engine with non synthetic oil and then maybe switch to synthetic.
I plan to use the oil life moniter unless the interval it seems excessive.
My dealer is giving me the first service for free. I plan on dong that at 3000 miles and changing the transmission filter as well.
Additives...I will probably use Power Service additive or Stanadyne routinely. Both come highly recommended.
Bill


----------



## beachbum (Nov 27, 2006)

Got the new truck. Service manager recommends NO fuel additive. Says they have caused documented performance problems. Also, regular oil is fine, not a requirement for synthetic. Regular oil is in truck now. Recommends first oil change at 5K. Transmission---change filter at 15K (don't throw away the magnet!!) Fuel filter at 15K. Use the on-board oil and filter life monitors. I guess I'll do that. Why complicate things. Seem like a nice ride. 
david


----------



## Sluggo54 (Jun 15, 2005)

dcollins said:


> Got the new truck. Service manager recommends NO fuel additive. Says they have caused documented performance problems. Also, regular oil is fine, not a requirement for synthetic. Regular oil is in truck now. Recommends first oil change at 5K. Transmission---change filter at 15K (don't throw away the magnet!!) Fuel filter at 15K. Use the on-board oil and filter life monitors. I guess I'll do that. Why complicate things. Seem like a nice ride.
> david


Congrats! You will enjoy it! That monster torque was such a change for me, coming from a 4.2 F150. It was a totally reliable, cheap to own vehicle, but wouldn't pull the hat off a cowboy. Seriously - it would not maintain 65 on a level road at 800 feet altitude with U-Haul's largest (but mostly aluminum) tandem trailer on it, with less than a thousand pounds in it. I LOVE this thing!

Mine is an '05, but the manual says to change the tranny filter at the first service. That sorta took care of itself, as the filter mounting block was leaking, and the tech thought it was the filter. Second try, they removed, sealed, and replaced the mounting block/adapter, and put on a second new filter.

When I change it myself I use Rotella, the dealer uses Goodwrench - then I found most of the dealers also have Rotella, and actually charge less for it. Thus, Rotella it is.

Sluggo


----------



## TB9999 (Nov 3, 2006)

The new truck fever got me! I take delivery tomorrow of an 07 2500HD 4x4 Duramax/Allison







. I have never had a diesel so have a lot to learn- much good info on this site! Hope to keep this one 10 years like my 95 GMC 1500... If the sevice mgr recommends anything different than what's already been advised, will let y'all know.
Terry B


----------



## Sluggo54 (Jun 15, 2005)

-->QUOTE(Terry B @ Dec 14 2006, 10:14 PM) [snapback]171995[/snapback]
The new truck fever got me! I take delivery tomorrow of an 07 2500HD 4x4 Duramax/Allison







. I have never had a diesel so have a lot to learn- much good info on this site! Hope to keep this one 10 years like my 95 GMC 1500... If the sevice mgr recommends anything different than what's already been advised, will let y'all know.
Terry B
[/quote]

Since the service manager is in the business of selling service, there is a remote possibility that he may have suggestions for service intervals...









I have yet to find a dealer that goes by the manufacturer's manual. They ALWAYS recommend more, often much more, and not infrequently in conflict with the manufacturer. I have had recommended to me injector cleanings that GM warns against, and others.

I always just print out what I want done, and hand it to the service writer. I also will tell then what NOT to mess with - i.e., I don't want them adding their cheapo wiper fluid to my ice-melting, bug removing juice, nor do I want them messing with my tire pressures. That one is almost a universal. You'd think the fifth wheel hitch in the back would be a clue, but more than once, despite the instructions, I have picked it up with the pressures set at 50 all around!.

'Course, those three thousand mile oil changes won't hurt anything, other than your wallet and the world oil supply...









Enjoy!

Sluggo


----------



## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Dave & Terry,

Congrat on the new trucks. You will for sure love them. Note of caution on diesels and extended oil change intervals. Our trucks have an EGR valve in them that will dirty up the oil pretty badly and will of course increase the oil change interval. White Buffalo's idea of an oil analysis is a good idea and can be used to set your oil change interval. I'm still on the fence if I will use Amsoil. The price tag is way up there! I also see that Shell brought out a new oil with a CJ-4 rating so I may just try that first.

I don't trust GM's oil change interval indicator. I don't know what type of sensor they use but I'm sure the skimped on it like all manufacturers do.

Mike C


----------



## nynethead (Sep 23, 2005)

I use the amsoil and filter, just changed over to the newer 5w-40 for the 07 and newer diesels and I have the original 15w-40 for the warmer weather. I found a site that with shipping the oil costs the same but i get the filter with it. you can order the quarts, gallons, 2.5 gallons (chevy owners) since we take 10 quarts.

Site is www.woodsbrosracing.com


----------



## rms0726ea (Aug 9, 2006)

nynethead said:


> I use the amsoil and filter, just changed over to the newer 5w-40 for the 07 and newer diesels and I have the original 15w-40 for the warmer weather. I found a site that with shipping the oil costs the same but i get the filter with it. you can order the quarts, gallons, 2.5 gallons (chevy owners) since we take 10 quarts.
> 
> Site is www.woodsbrosracing.com


nynethead,

You can go directly to the Amsoil homepage (www.amsoil.com), pay $20 for the preferred customer program and pay wholesale prices. You'll save even more...


----------

