# What are these for?



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Proud new owner of a 05 28rs-s and have a million questions but the 3 most pressing at the moment are due to not being able to see what is going on in the enclosed belly of my trailer.

1) There are 3 - 1/2" drains coming out of the under belly. 1 is obvious as it is next to the fresh water tank but there are 2 just behind the curb side wheels. What are they connected to?

2) The black tank is easy (maybe not pleasant) to see how full it really is when the meter indicates full but how do you tell how much more you can put into the Grey when it hits full?

3) Wiring diagrams - Can you get one for the new trailer? I just found a couple of thermal breakers mounted by the battery and several different wires connected to them. I need to make sense of them.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Andy,

The other two drains underneath are low point drains for the water system. They are used to drain out the system for winterization or service. When you use them, open the faucets too, that way you allow air in so the water runs out.

The tub drain is the lowest point in the grey water system, when water starts backing up in the tub, the grey tank is completely full. The guages for the tanks are notoriously inaccurate. I cleaned my black tank out thoroughly last trip with my quickie flush and flush king, the guage read empty, I added a few gallons of water and chemical and it read 1/3 full. After sitting at home for a week, it now reads empty. The best way to check the black tank is to take a peek down the toilet with a flashlight.

I haven't heard of anyone being able to get a wiring diagram and I'm not sure what the breakers you're talking about are for. I'm sure someone here does though.

That leaves 999,997 questions to go, so ask away









Mike


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi Andy, I will do my best to try to answer some of your question. The little drains are just that, they drain the fresh water from the tank and water heater and I think the lines as well, but do not know for sure about the line drain.
The gray tank is another thing altogethere. I have had the bottom off but not the end where those tanks are, so I am only comparing them to the fresh tank. The sensors are close togethere, if you do the math for a 30 gallon tank they are roughly 7 gallons/ setting but these tanks are thin, long and tall. So the sensors are about 4" apart with some area left over for full, not only that but they are inaccurate. Not very much help, so here is what I do. When the tank hits 3/4 I take a 5 gallon bucket, some folks use the blue tote tank, and I dump the waste in the dump station or the outhouse. I also dump some down the toilet to keep things liquid in it as well. You kind of get a fell for it after a while. 
The wiring daigram is something I would like as well. I don't think that there is one available from Keystone. I do know what circuit breaker you are talking about but can not remember what it controlls. The easiest way may simply to trace it back to the source in the pig tail that plugs into your TV. 
Keystone also uses wire nuts for all electrical connection, I don't care for them because they come loose in this setting due to vibration. I some cases the slider switch, monitor wires, heater switch and main electrical box where the cord hooks in some of the wire nuts were very loose, I have been soldering and using heat shrink to redo them. My wife say's that I am over doing it and looking for problems and I guess I am but I would rather be safe and avoid a electric fire or problems besides this way I am familular with the system.
Hope this helps and maybe someone else can answer some of the question better. Kirk


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## KellerJames (Jan 19, 2004)

Hey Andy, ( I love that photo )
Mike hit the nail with the lines stubbed out under the trailer. The single one drains the fresh holding tank. The two together drain the system. One for the cold side and one for the hot side. As previously stated, when you drain the system, open the faucets so you drain as much water as possible. Ideally, ALL water should be out of the line, but chances are, there will still be enough water in the lines to freeze and cause problems. When you winterize, either blow the lines out or put in RV antifreeze.
As for the grey tank. When the guage says full, empty it. You don't have much room left until it starts backing up into the bath tub.
Now on the wiring, you would be better off letting others in the know advise you on that because I'm not electrically inclined at all. 
I love reading posts from new owners. It reminds me of when we first got ours. Enjoy and be safe.


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## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

Hi Andy,

Everyone has answered your questions so I will just add two morsels of info to what you already have:

1)Technically, those forward most two drains are called the "Low Point" drains and they represent the lowest (closest to the ground on a level TT) place that water can go in the system. The one that is back near your city/tank fill door/panel is the main tank drain. I drain all three and the water heater after each trip. Good advice on opening the valves inside to get a "open" system.

2) Forget the wiring diagram. I contacted Keystone when I first got mine TT and tried to get it. NO GO., that is proprietary data and its not released. Simple as that... now if you have a buddy in the RV service arena perhaps you could get a copy but just calling the company and expecting them to support you as a buyer is out of the question on this issue.

Steve


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Thanks for the feedback.

I have looked thru the picture album and seen mods where valves were installed on the drain lines. I think I will have to see about doing that.

Too bad about the wiring diagram. It sure would help in chasing problems if (when







) they arise.


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## CanadaCruizin (Jul 3, 2004)

I've tried to turn/open those two drain valves, but wasn't able to move them. Decided to stop before I twist something off. Can anyone provide a tip on how they open?

Not to change the topic, but since I have an air compressor, I thought it'd be a good idea to blow out the lines. Any idea how to do this?

J


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## Travelers Rest (Feb 27, 2004)

J,

Those caps come right off by turning them counter clockwise. You might need to hold on to the top portion of the connector above the cap with a pair of channel-locks. Just remember they are plastic and they will crack if you s-q-u-e-e-z-e them too thight!

As for pressurizing your system...I assume you mean to blow it our for winter storage. To do that you will need some way to attach your compressor to your water system. I used an adapter that I made from the plumbing and tool department at Lowes.

Start with an regular compressor fitting (the end that you would find on your pnumatic power tools) from the tool department then head to the plumbing section and tell the know-it-all-plumber guy who works there that you want to get from that to the male end of a garden hose.

When you are finished you should have spent $5 and have a few peices that screw together to form an assembly 4 or 5 inches long that will attach to your city water inlet on one end and a compressor hose on the other! I have this set up for blowing out my sprinkler system at home and plan to use it on the TT this year ASSUMING that the city water inlet doesn't vent right back out the tank fill port. Which I will gladly share with you once I find out...or some other knowing soul could just tell us all!









Anyway, my guess is that you should be able to run the system up to about 15lbs without too much trouble then go open one spigot/drain valve at a time and let the water drain out. Remember you're not trying to see ho much pressure you can get in your system, rather just trying to move the existing water out so it doesn't freeze and expand, then crack a pipe or fitting.

Anybody have any other opinions on the best route to take, blowing it out and storing it dry or using an RV antifreeze in the system. I took delivery of mine from the factory in January and it had been winterized with antifreeze.

Steve


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

You can also purchase an adapter to fit the water inlet which has a standard tire valve on it for a couple of bucks. (Cruizin, Canadian Tire has these.) With a helper to hold the air compressor hose on the adapter, I run around and open each valve in the trailer, and the low point drains underneath. Takes only a few minutes to blow everything out.

I go full bore on the winterizing...
1. Drain lines. 
2. Blow out the lines. 
3. Add antifreeze. (Two gallons is cheap insurance!)


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## fixjet (Jan 19, 2004)

Blowing out the lines works fine for winterizing. Look in your owners manual under winterizing and it tells you all you need to know.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

If you want better winterizing protection, always use anti-freeze. It's really cheap insurance!

*Painless RV Winterizing*


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## CanadaCruizin (Jul 3, 2004)

Thanks to all for the tips. I assume that opening the two drains will also drain the hot water tank?

I'll be heading to Canadian Tire this week for a look-around


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## CanadaCruizin (Jul 3, 2004)

Oh ya, i'll also review the steps in the owners' manual. tks for the reminder, fixjet. It seems I forget about this resource too often.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

CanadaCruizin - There is a drain plug on the heater tank, so there are a total of 4 water drains.

My first question on this topic was I did not know what the two drains were that were curb side just behind my wheels. Now I know they are pressure side low point drains for the cold and hot water to the kitchen sink.


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## vdub (Jun 19, 2004)

One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is the hot water plug. I could be wrong (ask the wife, she'll tell you when I am), but I don't think the low point drains will remove the water from the hot water tank. I found this out the hard way when I knew the rig would be stored for a while and I drained everything -- at least I thought I had drained everything. When we started the system back up a couple months later, the hot water was somewhat nasty, but the cold was just fine. So I drained the hot water tank by taking the plug out. That solved the problem, so I concluded that a lot of water had to have stayed in the tank over those 2 months and was left to go really, really stale. It must not have been drained by low points.


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## fixjet (Jan 19, 2004)

On the 25RSS one of the two rear drains does drain the hot water heater. If you pull both caps you will have hot water coming out of one of them. Then open the vent on the hot water tank and you will increase the water flow from the drain. The other drain must be the low point at the rear of the system. The drain by the rear axle is for the water tank.

Dan


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## indycohiba (May 12, 2004)

I have drained all the faucets, the hot water tank with plug, ran the water pump to clear the lines, and drained the fresh water tank. I still have water in one line going to my hot water heater. I also opened the valves on the low drain point but no water comes out. Do you just unscrew the top cap or do you have to remove the plug from the line. I unscrewed the cap but get no moisture at all. Any help would be appreciated.


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## indycohiba (May 12, 2004)

indycohiba said:


> I have drained all the faucets, the hot water tank with plug, ran the water pump to clear the lines, and drained the fresh water tank. I still have water in one line going to my hot water heater. I also opened the valves on the low drain point but no water comes out. Do you just unscrew the top cap or do you have to remove the plug from the line. I unscrewed the cap but get no moisture at all. Any help would be appreciated.
> [snapback]16030[/snapback]​


Never mind. I got them off.


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