# ~winterizing Tips~



## NDJollyMon

I'm not affiliated with this site, but I sure love their newsletter!









(Pay special attetion to winterizing the city water connection!)









RVTRAVEL.COM WINTERIZING TIPS


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## camping479

That city water inlet will get you every time









Mike


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## Devildog

I had 2 more trips planned, but looks like we may can the one for Stone Mtn, Ga in December. I will be figuring out which way I winterize next month after our last trip...


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## BoaterDan

"Every RV has a city water inlet. Unless you have hooked up to this to blow out your pipes with an air compressor, there will still be water in that line. To get the antifreeze into this pipe and fitting, make sure the rest of the system has been winterized with antifreeze. Bleed pressure off the system by turning off the pump and opening a faucet until no more antifreeze comes out. Go outside to the city water inlet, and, using a finger or small tool, hold the backflow valve open, and have someone turn the pump on briefly, until antifreeze comes out. Failure to relieve the pressure from the system prior to manually opening the city water valve will cause the o-ring to separate, requiring the valve to be removed from the RV and repairs to be made."

Where is this backflow valve?. I've got a screen over my opening, and I don't see anything else nearby.


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## camping479

The valve is right behind the screen in the inlet. You can pry the screen out carefully with a small screwdriver.

Mike


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## huntr70

You could also detatch the city hose from the coupler at the pump and drain it too....then you don't have to worry about messing up the o-ring on that valve.

Steve


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## 2500Ram

Or you can do what I did and remove the wrong flex line from the water pump and let all the water run on the floor under the fridge









Actually that might be the easiest thing to do, your in there working on the water pump already why not just disconnect the line from the water pump and be done with it.

Bill


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## hatcityhosehauler

> You could also detatch the city hose from the coupler at the pump and drain it too....then you don't have to worry about messing up the o-ring on that valve.


Just don't forget to reconnect it in the spring, before you hook up to city water....









Tim


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## NDJollyMon

...or you can just do what I did and poke something in there while it's under pressure, shoot antifreeze over to the neighbors driveway, kill the grass, and give you something to fix next season.

oh brother.


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## ron4jon

I just completed the winterization of my 28FRLS for the first time. I had trouble finding the right combination of pipefittings and matching hose to go into the jug of antifreeze, plus getting to the pump inlet fitting in the first place.







So, I thought that while I was at this task I might as well make it a lot easier and faster the next time. I bought two valves, one â€œTâ€, four threaded couplings, and several hose clamps, plus a 10 foot length of Â½ inch ID reinforced hose that matched the existing water hoses. All fittings except the valves were for Â½ inch ID hose. The valves are white PVC with a red handle that only rotates 90 degrees.
Installation:
Step 1: After disconnecting the city water hose from the pump inlet, connect valve #1 to the end of this hose.
Step 2: Next, connect a two inch long hose between valve #1 and the â€œTâ€.
Step 3: Connect a new length of hose about one foot long between the other side of the â€œTâ€ and the pump inlet connection. 
Step 4: Next, connect a two inch long hose between the middle junction of the â€œTâ€ and valve #2. 
Step 5: Finally, connect an approximately 6 foot long hose to the other end of valve #2 and then insert the other end of this end this hose into the jug of antifreeze. The hose length is actually determined by the distance from valve #2 to the ground. This is because you will probably want the jug of antifreeze to be on the ground instead of inside your RV somewhere where a spill could occur.
Operating instructions: 
Step 1: The water Pump must be OFF (initially) and the source of city water, of course, must NOT be connected to the RV. Also, the hot water heater must be drained and by-passed.
Step 2: Close Valve #1 and Open valve #2. 
Step 3: With the hose from valve #2 inserted into the jug of antifreeze, turn pump ON.
Step 4: One at a time, turn every water outlet ON until antifreeze flows out with no air bubbles. I had to start a second gallon of antifreeze about 2/3rd of the way through all water outlet purges with antifreeze. Your RVâ€™s hose length and number of outlets will determine how much you will need. Donâ€™t forget to purge outside shower heads!








Step 5: You must also purge the RVâ€™s water inlet hose and replace with antifreeze using a somewhat different method. Follow the instructions for this procedure found on other Web sites such as http://rvtravel.com/publish/rvwinterizing.shtml (7th paragraph from top). Basically, you remove the screen in the outside city water inlet coupling, and depress the center of the reverse-flow valve just inside until antifreeze appears with no air bubbles. Then, replace the screen and protective cap. 
Step 6: Donâ€™t forget to add some antifreeze to each P trap and holding tanks.
Step 7:When winterization is complete; return valve #1 ON and valve #2 OFF. Drain antifreeze inlet hose and store while still connected to valve #2.


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## PDX_Doug

OK, so we just had our first freeze of the season last night. I actually had to scrape my windshied this morning. It did not get too cold (30 degrees at the lowest), but I have not winterized yet.

So my question is: Just how much of a freeze does it take to start messing things up in the plumbing? Will this brief little freeze be likely to have done any damage?

I have not winterized yet, because we are going out one more time on Thanksgiving weekend.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## tdvffjohn

If your garden hose is still out, see how the cold is affecting it. It will give you some indication of freezing as it is about the same size as your pipes in the Outback. Since it is outside and not inside the trailer walls the hose will freeze first.

John

Drain your low points and maybe you could put a small heater in the trailer and set it at 50


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## NDJollyMon

Watch for OUTBACK-CICLES!


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## OutbackPM

When I went to do my city water connection I followed the proceedures mentioned here on Outbackers







and relieved the pressure first but I found I could not easily depress the center to open up. When I eventually got it open I had to use more force than I thought it should have needed and it did unseat the O ring














(at least that what I assume) beceause the spring does not close it anymore and its loose.

I have not fixed it yet but I think Mike (camping479) had a good description on how to do it







. I had not used the city connection since we bought it in September only the tank so I was wondering if I had connected the city water up and flowed some water before winterizing would it have made any difference in unsticking the O ring seal







.

Any thoughts or experience on doing this first in the future? (while winterizing is fresh on our minds for those of use who have to live through unfriendly camping weather







).

Thanks in advance

David


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