# Brakes



## TomTomLab (Sep 21, 2004)

I am going to try to adjust my brakes this week-end. I can not get the brakes to lock up while adjusting my brake contoller. I need a little more trailer braking, because I am feeling a little too much push when braking. Any thoughts or suggest as to how to adjust in a quick and safe way!

Tom


----------



## Parker Outbacker (Dec 17, 2004)

Tom, I had the same issue.







Trailer would never lock up. I don't feel that the trailer is pushing me, but will be very interested to see what the pros take on this is.

Ron


----------



## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Have you turned the Prodigy to B3 to give you the extra boost ???

My Prodigy instruction manual did say that you should make sure that the brakes on the trailer are warmed up before testing...

I tow allot of things and I know that as long as you dont feel the trailer is pushing you then thats fine ... having the ability to lock up the trailer tires is not the best idea especially if you have ABS on the TV .... puts allot of strain on the trialer brakes if they are the ones doing most of the braking....


----------



## jgerni (Nov 10, 2003)

I've never been able to get mine to lock up on dry pavement even with the prodigy at full strength but if adjusted correctly you shouldn't feel the trailer pushing you during normal braking.

Adjusting the brakes are a pain with those drop axles but can be done by removing the ruber seal on the back of the wheel and turning the brake adjustmnent wheel. The wheel should be off the ground so you can spin it to test your adjustment.


----------



## TomTomLab (Sep 21, 2004)

I have had my brake control at full strentgh and read and reread the instructions on how to adjust, still can not get the desired braking. So I thought my next step would be to adjust the brakes. I have never done this, so it is a new adventure? Tips and tricks are always helpful!!


----------



## DANJOGAVINMO (Apr 17, 2004)

jgerni has the right idea, jack it up so you can spin the wheel and adjust from behind. You will need a brake "spoon" as they are called to turn the wheel. I can't remember this morning whether you move the brake wheel up or down to tighten, all I remember is that I went the wrong way initially. My brakes were well out of adjustment when I did it.

I don't think I can get mine to lock up either just using the controller. When I had the old haye lemerz controller (pre prodigy days), I could get them to lock up under heavy braking while towing.

Might be a good time to lube the wheel bearings also. There is general disagreeement about the method to do this.

What I did: 
The axles we have have a zirc fitting behind the wheel bearing cap, just squeeze some grease in until it starts coming out the outer lip of the assembly. It took me a LOT of grease in each wheel to get it to come out of the outer lip. Some folks actually go to the point of removing the bearing and hand packing which is OK also.

Grumpy


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

It is possible that one or more of your brakes are not working at all.

To check and adjust the brakes raise each wheel (one at a time is fine). With it raised spin the wheel and you may hear a very slight rub this would be good, if not you should adjust the brake pivot. You get access to this adjustment via a hole on the backing plate, there will be a rubber plug in it. Adjust the star nut until you hear the brake drag then back it off a 1/4 turn.

Also while the wheel is in the air have some one manually apply the brakes (little lever on the brake controller) note the voltage at which the brake begin to stop the wheel from turning it should be stopping the wheel when turned by hand by the time you reach .5 volts (lower is okay but you should not need more then 1.0 vdc). You can do this check before and after you adjust the pivot. Note that for best stopping all 4 wheels should stop with the same amount of voltage +/- .1 volt.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.


----------



## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

But once again -- and I got the same info from both the Dealer and the Prodigy support number --BEFORE making any adjustments make sure that you test your brakes when they are WARM...

Prodigy told me to tow the trailer about 1/4 mile with the brakes slightly engaged to warm them up. After I did that what I thought was actually loose brakes turned out to be fine...

This is however -- certainly a MOD that you don't want to do while having a beer ...


----------



## TomTomLab (Sep 21, 2004)

Thanks So Much I will let you know and I am going to wait until later today to print all the tips so I can drag them under the trailer with me!!

Tom H


----------



## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

I don't think I need to adjust my brakes but when I make a stop, just before the whole unit stops, I feel the trailer brakes release and "push" a little on the TV, as I am easing up on the brakes. Is this normal or do I need to adjust the brake controller?

The controller is a Accupower Pilot. (It came out of a Ford that was traded in so the price was right). I have tried adjusting the power of the brake controller but it does it all the time.

Gary


----------



## Coachlight RV Sales (Oct 8, 2004)

The Number One problem we see with lack of good brakes is where a customer or service center has Pumped to much grease through the sert on hub. If this has happened the brake shoes are soaked with grease and will need replaced. To check to see if its the TV or unit jack up the driver side of the unit first. Disconnect the plug from the TV. Normally the wires from the plug come down to the front left tire first before going across and to the rear axle. When unit is in the air either pull the brake a way cable or connect 12volt power to the brake wire at the plug, this will lock the brakes on the trailer. Spin the wheel(s) in the air and see if they lock,if they don't then either pull hubs or try to adj. brakes. If brakes lock then the problem is in the TV. Make Sure after the wheels have spun to remove the power wire or replace the break a way cable so brake won't get hot and lock on the hubs.
Ken Lown
Coachlight RV Sales


----------



## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Thank You.


----------



## Parker Outbacker (Dec 17, 2004)

Coachlight, always appreciate the insight. Will have to check this out next time I bring it home.

Ron


----------



## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Coachlight RV Sales said:


> The Number One problem we see with lack of good brakes is where a customer or service center has Pumped to much grease through the sert on hub. [snapback]31218[/snapback]​


Hey Ken, so how do we know when enough grease is enough? I purchased a grease gun a few weeks ago and was going to grease the axles as part of Spring tune up. This will be the first time I have done this (purchased my Outback in Jan 2004).

Randy


----------



## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

In years past, grease fittings were usually on boat trailers because they were submeged once in a while. As a rule the grease will not get out of the hub. The grease will break down from heat. Using the fitting to put more in only adds too much and unless you fill it (a







) the new grease is at one end, unless the inside is designed to spread it thru. Me personally still remove, inspect and repack if needed. Just my Thoughts.


----------



## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Yeah, but that goes against what Keystone markets as Al-KO Ultralube Axles "Service Without Disassembling."

Randy


----------



## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

You can't beat pulling the hub and inspecting and repacking the bearings if necessary.

I've read in a couple of different articles warnings about using the zirk fittings, it's too easy to blow out the rear seals. Then like coachlight says, you wind up with grease all over the brakes, and that's a giant mess to clean up.

If you do use the zirk fitting, you pump grease in until it comes out around the fitting.

Mike


----------



## jallen58 (Oct 27, 2003)

I adjusted my brakes the day after i brought it home. The factory doesn't take the time to adjust them properly. Mine lock instantly when i engage with the manual lever on the prodigy. As far as grease i use the Zerk one year and inspect/repack the next. When using the Zerk I just put about 6-10 pumps i don't go until any squeezes out.(JMHO)

Jim


----------



## Parker Outbacker (Dec 17, 2004)

If I remember right, the service manual still says to repack the wheel bearings, can't remember what the interval was though....gett'in old I guess


----------



## Drifter (Aug 22, 2004)

If you feel you MUST go by the Keystone Owners manual







it reads:

"Wheel bearings should be repacked ever 6000 mile or 6 months. Every time the wheel hub is removed, the wheel bearings must be adjusted."

It then goes on to explain how to do bearings.

The AL-KO owners manul also shows 6000 or 6 months on their periodic maintenance chart (page 11) and gives a BRIEF explanation of how it should be done.

"There is no need to lift the trailer before greasing axles equipped with ULTRALUBE.... Hubs and components should be disassembled yearly and inspected for worn or otherwise damaged parts." (page 20)

But then, what kind of person would read the manual?







Much less do what that thing says.









drifter


----------

