# Please Check Out Hitch Pics....



## CrazyAboutOrchids (Aug 10, 2009)

VERY long post - sorry - from a VERY frustrated Outbacker....

TV - Yukon XL 1500 series , trailer - 2003 26RS, WDH - Husky round bar 800 - 1201 lbs.

Problem; regardless of how we have the shank set up, how many washers we put in or leave out, we have been unable to get the round bars parallel to the trailer and weight distributed at the same time. We took it to a 'hitch' place before our Niagara trip after we spent 3 days messing it trying to get everything set up right. We seem to get a few things done right, but can't get all the pieces as they should be. 176.00 later it was set up as we brought it to them they only had dropped the chains but it wasn't distributing weight.

As is, when we bought it and towed home, the shank was flipped lower to the ground, 5 washers, chains at 6 or 7 had them up at an angle but clearing the trailer during turns. It tows fine that way, but we know those darn bars are not set up properly. Previous owner towed with an 01 Expedition which sat higher than our Yukon.

Screwed with hitch last night for 2 more hours; still not right. Flipped the shank to raise the ball; tried both lower sets of holes, tried with washers, without washers, 6 chains, 7 chains. Cannot get those bars parallel, the nose down and weight thrown forward at the same time.

As is now, second set of holes form the bottom with the shank flipped to raise the ball, 6 sets of washers in gets us good angle down to the ground when bars are not set up. Two issues - trailer nose is high and truck rear was raised up which is a no-no.

Measurements - front before 34" - full weight (no bars) 35 3/8" - full weight with bars engaged 35"
- rear before 35" - full weight (no bars) 35" - full weight with bars engaged 33 1/4"

Pics - 
Squat of truck









Truck and Outback









Those darn stinking bars









And another view









Sorry for the long post, but if you knew the hours we have screwed around with this.... I happen to research everything and want it RIGHT - I do not want to be blissfully ignorant as I drive down the road with my family. I knwo we need to weigh, have a scale right by our house, but since 9/11 and being on the NY line, it is open more than closed and we have not been home, available and had the Outback when it has been available to us. We're still hoping the planets align so we can get it up there soon.

I am thinking we need to drop the ball to the lowest holes on the shank and try again with maybe one more washer. That would lower the nose and maybe get us the angle we need for those bars prior to engaging them. Only issue we had with 7 washers on the last trip was it made hitching up more difficult; the ball cup did not set up or sepearate easily from the ball when 7 washers were put in.

Help is greatly appreciated. We are both very frustrated over this. We came from an Equalizer on the pop up which is too small/on the line for this (600/6000) and would like to get one for this, but it's not in the cards right now so we are trying to work with what was sold to us with the camper. I know if we can get everything set up properly, we won't have to mess with it, but we just can't get each piece of the puzzle as it should be.


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## Sean Woodruff (Dec 20, 2007)

CrazyAboutOrchids said:


> Problem; regardless of how we have the shank set up, how many washers we put in or leave out, we have been unable to get the round bars parallel to the trailer and weight distributed at the same time.


Why are you starting with the premise that your round bars need to be parallel to the trailer?


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

I have the same hitch (the Husky and 1200 pound bars) and the dealer set it up without issues. But I have a different TT and different TV, so that's not much help, I know. I'm just trying to say that the Husky setup is do-able.

I really think you need to get all the weights now.

1. TV only

2. TV with loaded hitch

3. Full weight of TV and TT

4. TT only, while hitched.

2 minus 1 = Traveling loaded hitch weight (HW).

4 plus HW = Traveling TT weight

Check TV and TT for GVWR.

Compare #3 to GCVWR

If the state facility is not open at a time when you can make it, you might try a private weighing company. I found them on the road, but then I was on the I-states in the mid-west and they are probably more numerous out there. Try the Yellow Pages for local help?

Good luck!


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

Sean Woodruff said:


> Why are you starting with the premise that your round bars need to be parallel to the trailer?


That's my thought too. I think the important thing is to distribute weight to the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle. Since you don't have a scale to check precisely, the next best thing is measurements that you've taken. I think you're on the right track, but maybe getting the notion that the bars have to be parallel to the trailer out of your mind is the first thing I'd do. I have an Equalizer setup and I'm pretty sure the bars are not parallel to the trailer.

I would have the first goal be to distribute weight. The next to have the camper ride as close to level as possible with the weight distributing...doesn't mean it WILL be level, but the closer the better so that as you motor down the road, your trailer tongue causes the minimum bounce on your rear. You have a K1500 class tow vehicle, so I *think* that means you have coils in the rear...no matter how perfect the WD setup is...it's gonna bounce some.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

If you are using that goofy OEM hitch receiver that GM put on your vehicle, then you never will get much weight to transfer to the front axles. That hitch receiver flexes too much - partly due to the round tube construction and the bow that they put in the cross bar and partly due to the short span between the bolt holes that anchor the receiver to the vehicle frame. (It just doesn't have much leverage and flexes, too - a double whammy.) I removed that OEM receiver immediately from my 2500 HD pickup, due to the same problems. I replaced it with a good Class V Putnam hitch receiver and then had no problems getting the proper weight distribution and other specs. (Putnam went out of business, but Reese makes a good receiver, too.)

I hate to say that spending more money will fix your problem, but unfortunately, that is the case - in my opinion.

The other thing you may be fighting is the air ride suspension on your vehicle. (I think you have that - at least my 2003 Suburban did.) The height of your rear end changes when you have the engine running, versus sitting with the engine off. It makes adjustments difficult, and also harder to distribute weight to the front. But it can be accomplished.

Just my $.02.

Mike


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

luverofpeanuts said:


> Why are you starting with the premise that your round bars need to be parallel to the trailer?


That's my thought too. I think the important thing is to distribute weight to the front and rear axles of the tow vehicle. Since you don't have a scale to check precisely, the next best thing is measurements that you've taken. I think you're on the right track, but maybe getting the notion that the bars have to be parallel to the trailer out of your mind is the first thing I'd do. I have an Equalizer setup and I'm pretty sure the bars are not parallel to the trailer.

I would have the first goal be to distribute weight. The next to have the camper ride as close to level as possible with the weight distributing...doesn't mean it WILL be level, but the closer the better so that as you motor down the road, your trailer tongue causes the minimum bounce on your rear. You have a K1500 class tow vehicle, so I *think* that means you have coils in the rear...no matter how perfect the WD setup is...it's gonna bounce some.
[/quote]

I, also, have an equalizer setup and I'm pretty sure the bars are not parallel....Also, I know we are not perfectly level (back of TV may be down a bit)..

In a previous post you mentioned that you went to Grand Island NY - how was the towing experience? Did it handle well? Were you bouncing?


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## Sean Woodruff (Dec 20, 2007)

Mike makes a good point about the OEM receiver.

CURT makes a good receiver and they are reasonably priced.

Attached is a flier on their XD receiver line if anyone is interested. Most of your local hitch dealers can get one of these for you if you want one.

View attachment XD CURT Hitch Flyer 6-09-1.pdf


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

I'm with the prevailing trend here. GM's hitches were JUNK during those model years. They would eventually fatigue and fail! Get a real hitch bolted on, and then try it. When you re-setup the WDH with the new reciever, if the bars aren't exactly parallel, don't sweat it.


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## CrazyAboutOrchids (Aug 10, 2009)

No, we did not bounce, after screwing around with it for hours, we ended up reverting to the set up that we towed it home from New Hamshire with. No sway, no bounce, but also no parallel bars.

Why the stress on the bars being parallel? Every single set of hitch instructions has said the same thing no matter where I find them on the web; bars should be parallel with trailer frame and more so with round bars. A slight bow or bend to bar is normal, but my setup, with the extreme angle is always shown as incorrect. That is on the trailer life forum under hitch set up instructions, torklift,com, ehow.com.

We do realize we need weights to be set up 100% and as soon as we can get it to the scales, we will. I have a scale 2 miles from me, it's just getting access to it when closed that is a problem. We can't get on it when open and this time of year, being where we are located, it is open lots more than it is closed.

Yes, I do have the air ride suspension. With it, you are supposed to set up the weight distribution without autoride engaged and then turn on the vehicle and the system levels out the remainder. We've towed with this vehicle for years but with an equalizer hitch. We do plan on getting an equal-i-zer, but it has to wait till next year. I plan on upgrading the OEM hitch then as well.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Turn sharply and get out and see how the bars and chains have shifted. This is the reason why you don't want the bars too close to the frame. When I had the reese it was the trunnion stle pars so they sloped downward as you moved back. The manual only gave a minimum # of links of chain in order to prevent binding on turns.

Looking at your hitch setup, if the vehicle drives good, I'd go ahead and use it without hesitation, but that is just me.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Diitto on WDH bars being level. It is not necessary in my experience. Critical thing is to have the proper distribution of weight going on. My bars are not parralel either and because of the hitch height and tongue height it would be difficult to get them parrallel and have the hitch working the way it should. Eric


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## Justman (Jul 22, 2006)

I'm with everyone else. Try another quality hitch and throw the OEM hitch away. I changed mine out and didn't have near the amount of flexing I had before. I have the Putnam XDR class V.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Nathan said:


> Looking at your hitch setup, if the vehicle drives good, I'd go ahead and use it without hesitation, but that is just me.


I have to agree with Nathan here.....


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## CrazyAboutOrchids (Aug 10, 2009)

Our WD hitch issues seem to have been resolved today. After posting on the Trailer Life towing forum, I kept getting responses to replace my OEM receiver. I've known for years of the failures of these receivers and even when towing the pop up, always had it in the back of my mind to replace it. I found a great deal on a class IV receiver so it was installed today. We hitched up the camper this afternoon at our storage location, raised the bars, weighed was distributed, bars are even to the frame and it towed beautifully.

The responses on the towing forum were that most likely, the hitch was flexing and not transferring weight forward. Today, we were able to have the proper amount of links, allowing the bars to stay even, and you could see the truck level out properly after the bars were raised.


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