# Rear Slide Top Track Cracked



## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

As stated in the title the left track has spider cracks in it from the last screw going in all directions. This is causing the slide to sag and pull the track out of the ceiling. The screw is holding tight though. Will take a photo today when I get home from work.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

I assume the bed is in? If so, are the rear clamps holding it in tightly?


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

Yes, slide is in and the clamps are on tight.
Could just of happened from all the potholes bouncing it a bit.

Will be making a slide support tonight.


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## mike (Dec 17, 2006)

our slide rail cracked last year. It was a really cheap part. I think under twenty dollars. Good luck


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

Here is the photo.


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## CrazyAboutOrchids (Aug 10, 2009)

I made a slide support from pvc plumbing supplies; ran less than 6.50 at Home Depot and weighs less than 1/2 lb. I used a 2 inch pipe with screw on pieces. I put it under the bed once it is slid inside and twist it up till it is tight. If I can get up to the camper, I'll take some pics.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Don't know how much clearance there is between the top of the roller and the ceiling in the track but you can make a filler to help spread the load. We do this on airplanes all the time. Get some steel from a big box store or welding shop. A piece 1/8" thick should do. If you have the room, 1/4". Cut it a couple inches long and the width of the inside of the track. It's best to make it full width and to radius the edges to fit into the radius of the track. Drill a hole in it for the screw to pass through. The hole doesn't need to be tight but of course needs to be smaller than either the screw head or washer if you use one. If you really want to do it right, install one on each attachment screw in the track. You may need to get longer screws to make up for the filler thickness.

After seeing the recent rash of track problems, I just got done making a support post myself.


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

Wonder if a big flat washer would to the trick? Thanks for the idea Fulminator.

Although kind of nervous about my planes not being built to tight enough tolerences that filler plates are needed!


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

A washer will work but the filler does a much better job. You can by small steel bar at home depot in the bolt aisle. For thin stuff like that you can cut it with a dremel with an abrasive wheel. You may be able to go to a shop like Glen's Welding in Lynnwood and have them cut you a few pieces for a few bucks.

As for the joint, it depends on the joint needs to do. Some locations require tight tolerances, some need to be able to have a little movement.


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

Yeah, just joking about the plane stuff. We do a lot of work up there as well.

I was thinking of the square washers used for bolting homes to the foundations.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Those would work but the hole through the middle is huge. I believe they are either 1/2" or 5/8" diameter. You might be able to find something ready made at Tacoma Screw or Glenn's Welding.


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