# Draining The Hot Water Heater - 32bhds



## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Will opening the faucets, low point drains and releasing the pressure in the hot water heater drain all the water from the heater? All the lines drained and then i released the pressure on the heater and the hot water line started draining for another 5 minutes. think the heater is completely drained?


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## Camping Fan (Dec 18, 2005)

If you opened up the pressure release valve, but didn't actually remove the plastic plug, there is probably still some water in the hot water heater. You'll want to remove the plug and totally drain the tank. When I winterize I remove the plug and leave it in the kitchen sink for the winter. Usually I remember to put it back in before the first trip in the spring.


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

Yep you need to remove the drain plug as Camping Fan said, if not you'll leave 90% of the water in the tank.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

I pull the drain plug on the heater, open the TP valve and open the low point drains. Once it's done draining I turn the water heater bypass and put anti freeze in the lines.

The little bit of water left in the bottom of the heater won't cause any problems, there's plenty of room for it to expand when it freezes.

Mike


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

Just one slight clarification - opening the plug won't completely empty the hot water tank. There will be a cup or so left in there, and the manufacturer says it's designed to handle that freezing.

So, you definitely need to open the plug (and switch the bypass valve if using anti-freeze), but don't worry about getting out every last drop.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

Mike, we must have been typing the same thing at the same time. Where's Rod Serling?


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Hey thanks! We are still planning on using it a couple more times but i wanted to get most of the water out of it out in case it gets too cold.
I was really surprised at how long it drained out the lwo point drains when i released the TP valve.


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

Sayonara said:


> Hey thanks! We are still planning on using it a couple more times but i wanted to get most of the water out of it out in case it gets too cold.
> I was really surprised at how long it drained out the lwo point drains when i released the TP valve.


I have noticed that too. I think there is some siphoning effect going on because it seems to drain a lot of water. Next time I drain via the low point, I'm going to catch it in a bucket to see how much comes out.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

ill pull the drain plug and let you know what was left in the heater...


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

Sayonara said:


> ill pull the drain plug and let you know what was left in the heater...


BTW, I have replaced the plastic drain plug with a petcock valve, making it very easy to drain the tank at the conclusion of each trip.


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

I have a petcock too and it works great. I empty all the lines after every trip.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Good idea on the petcock. ill look in to getting one of those today. Id also like to add 90* drain valves like the one on the bottom of the fresh water tank to the low point draine lines so i dont have to remove the caps every time.

anyone know the size required for these valves and the petcock. i only ask so i can get them on the way home today.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> ill pull the drain plug and let you know what was left in the heater...


OK, i pulled the drain plug, or anode bar thing....(that will continue in another thread) 
BONE DRY! Maybe a drop or 2 of water, so i had to test the theory. I hooked up the hose, filled the hot water tank, redrained the system, released the pressure and opened the drain. BONE DRY again. Interesting.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> OK, i pulled the drain plug, or anode bar thing....(that will continue in another thread)


Ok nevermind. Ill keep this discussion going. I updated the topic to help with future searches.
Anyways.....

I purchased the petcock valve that the parts guy suggested. Came home and checked. My drain has the anode bar attached and is a 3/4" hole. the petcock doesnt work. Does this mean i cant use a petcock valve? Also, what is the white gooey stuff on the anode? should i clean that off or is it some sort of special goo?


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

Sayonara said:


> OK, i pulled the drain plug, or anode bar thing....(that will continue in another thread)


Ok nevermind. Ill keep this discussion going. I updated the topic to help with future searches.
Anyways.....

I purchased the petcock valve that the parts guy suggested. Came home and checked. My drain has the anode bar attached and is a 3/4" hole. the petcock doesnt work. Does this mean i cant use a petcock valve? Also, what is the white gooey stuff on the anode? should i clean that off or is it some sort of special goo?


















[/quote]
Looks like Keystone went to a different water heater again.

The anode rod is doing its job if it looks like that. It disintegrates to make up for the water quality instead of your tank walls disappearing.

Keep an eye on it and replace when almost gone.

They do make a rinse kit for the water heater to flush out all the stuff that comes off the rod....I think Camping World has them.

Steve


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## Eagleeyes (Aug 1, 2007)

Yes, I have the anode rod as well. It looks just like DTs at this point. I'm not happy that they changed to the anode...but is it a better method?
Bob


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

I think im convinced at this point that opening the low point drains and releasing the pressure in the hot water tank drains the hot water tank. ill keep checking by losening the anode rod drain plug on occasion. anyone else have any opinion on this?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Sayonara said:


> I think im convinced at this point that opening the low point drains and releasing the pressure in the hot water tank drains the hot water tank. ill keep checking by losening the anode rod drain plug on occasion. anyone else have any opinion on this?


There is no way opening the low point drains should drain the water heater unless they plumbed the water lines incorrectly or you have a failed/stuck check valve. The cold water inlet should be on the bottom and should have a check valve to prevent hot water from backing up into the cold water system. The hot water comes out of the top and should also have a check valve.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

I thought along the same lines too but you see the picture above....that was minutes after draining using the low point. 
Heres what I did (twice)
Used the water system as usual (hot and cold)
unhooked the water hose.
opened the low point drains.
opened all the faucets.
let the water drain out until it stopped in a minute or 2.
released the pressure valve in the heater.
the water began to drain again. 
waited 5 minutes or so for the water to stop again.
pulled the anode plug......Bone dry.

Andy, you know a lot more about this than i do. Does this sound like something is plumbed wrong? we have not had a problem with any normal usage of the hot water heater. could the hot water line exit the hot water heater in a low point therefore allowing it to drain out the output of the heater into the system and into the lowpoint drain?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Sayonara said:


> I thought along the same lines too but you see the picture above....that was minutes after draining using the low point.
> Heres what I did (twice)
> Used the water system as usual (hot and cold)
> unhooked the water hose.
> ...


The text above high lighted in red is where it points to something being wrong. Which of the 2 low points does the water drain from? I would suspect it is the cold water and would indicate a faulty or missing inlet check valve. Maybe this is by design on newer trailers as a cost saving item (deleted inlet check valve) but it is wrong as there could be a scald hazard without a check valve in the cold water inlet. Can you look at the back of the water heater and take pictures of the cold water inlet and hot water outlet?


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> The text above high lighted in red is where it points to something being wrong. Which of the 2 low points does the water drain from? I would suspect it is the cold water and would indicate a faulty or missing inlet check valve. Maybe this is by design on newer trailers as a cost saving item (deleted inlet check valve) but it is wrong as there could be a scald hazard without a check valve in the cold water inlet. Can you look at the back of the water heater and take pictures of the cold water inlet and hot water outlet?


I sure will. Stand by....


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

I did the same thing on my trailer worked the same !! Waited 5 minutes or so for the water to stop again. We just got back from camping and the water was still hot!!!!!


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> Can you look at the back of the water heater and take pictures of the cold water inlet and hot water outlet?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Great pictures. It looks to be correctly plumbed and the brass fittings are the check valves.

Were you able to see which drain the water came out of when the heater drained out the low point?


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> Were you able to see which drain the water came out of when the heater drained out the low point?


Ill need to re pressure the system and check. I can do that tonight if i get a chance. I need to mark the low point lines hot/cold anyways. I also wanted to add valves instead of the caps to the low point lines but RV store sells hem for $12 each. Dont know if it worth $24 for that convienience....

Back to the petcock vale question... Does having the Anode rod mean there is no other way to drain the heater (using a petcock or some other means) than to remove the anode rod? Maybe that is why these low point drains allow the heater to drain as well....


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

You can get both in a kit Anode rod with drain

Home Depot will also have the low point fittings. The valves from there should be less then $12.


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> You can get both in a kit Anode rod with drain
> 
> Home Depot will also have the low point fittings. The valves from there should be less then $12.


Hey thanks!! Ill get one of those. Unless we are all convinced that the low point drains drain the hot water heater too....


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