# Average Fridge Temp



## Bearhog

Assuming you've allowed the fridge 24 hours to cool down, you have food and beverages cool and your kids dont leave the door open, what is your average RV fridge temp? feel free to quote electric or LP cooling. I'm just trying to make sure I dont have a bad unit or more likely poor venting. I'm in the high 30's at night and it goes up to the low/mid forty's during the day. and this is with battery operated curculation fans running, the trailer in the shade and outside temps in the low 70's.

All this said, does anyone know much about the fridge venting on a late model 250 RS. I may do well just adding a vent assist fan.

Thanks to all!


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## jnk36jnk

My theroy " if the beer is cold, the refrigerator is working just fine"

Semper Fi


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## Duanesz

My parents have a SOB and there fridge is in a slideout. They have a fan in the cavity that works off of a thermal switch. There fridge worked poorly and was back and forth to the dealer many times. I found that the switch worked and the fan worked when hooked up to 12v. but there was a problem with the wire between the switch and the fan. The one thing I found out was the fridges that are in slide outs have the vent on the side wall instead of the top of the camper. This does not allow the warm air to escape the cavity very well. Adding a fan to the cavity to keep air circulating will help the fridge work better.

Duane


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## CamperAndy

Couple of questions first.

Is this on electric or gas?

What is the freezer temps?

Where is the thermistor mounted in the fridge?

As for checking the ventilation, pull the outside access and there should be a baffle mounted on the outside wall and extend to the coils, if it is not there you need to add one.

Pull the vent top off the roof, Gilligan has been known not to completely open the hole through the roof membrane.


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## SDCampers

I run mine mostly on LPG when camping and it stays around 37 - 38 regardless of outside temp. We're usually in the shade mid 80's at warmest.


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## CamperAndy

SDCampers said:


> I run mine mostly on LPG when camping and it stays around 37 - 38 regardless of outside temp. We're usually in the shade mid 80's at warmest.


I guess I forgot that part of the OP.

Mine is normally on gas and also runs at 36 to 37, as long as the door is only opened when needed.


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## Bearhog

so it actually sounds like I'm right where I should be

I really appreciate the comments. I still think I'll take CamperAndy's advice and check out the venting.

Thanks again


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## Lmbevard

I haven't measured the temperature but my runs colder on LP than on Electricity, it runs cold enough to ice up inside the fridge part. If the fridge is like mine, there should be s slide on the far right fin inside the fridge part. Move it all the way to cold if it's not already. Next check the venting like camperAndy said. Clean out the vents and the coils on the back of the unit, and check that the baffle is there and set next to the top of the coils. There is also a kit for around $50 that has a solar powered vent that replaces the vent cap that should help some. There are several websites that might help you on this. Just google RV refrigerator cooling problem. Hope all this helps.


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## Y-Guy

On A/C we get around 33-35 on level 7, if I'm on LP I can maintain that temp with setting 4-5. I can freeze things on the top row of the fridge.

I've had my fridge replaced last summer, so if you are still under warranty get it in and have it inspected, start the paper work trailer sooner rather then later.


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## rdvholtwood

Bearhog said:


> Assuming you've allowed the fridge 24 hours to cool down, you have food and beverages cool and your kids dont leave the door open, what is your average RV fridge temp? feel free to quote electric or LP cooling. I'm just trying to make sure I dont have a bad unit or more likely poor venting. I'm in the high 30's at night and it goes up to the low/mid forty's during the day. and this is with battery operated curculation fans running, the trailer in the shade and outside temps in the low 70's.
> 
> All this said, does anyone know much about the fridge venting on a late model 250 RS. I may do well just adding a vent assist fan.
> 
> Thanks to all!


I've found this to be hit or miss. I've tried adjusting the thermistor to full cold and it seems that it still runs on the high side - 40's. I would tend to think that the weather has a big impact on it and, as someone mentioned, if your running your air. Last year, I began to suspect maybe it was the power at the campground and investing in a power protector. If you haven't checked your power, there is voltage meter you can get from camping world that will give you a quick idea on what your voltage is....

For the most part, even if it did run a bit high, it always kept our food cold.


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## BoaterDan

I used to get well into the 40's in the fridge on hot days. The fridge is under the awning on this model, so it's never getting sun beating on that side.

I had the vent fan with the thermostat control. The bearings went out after a season. I kept the thermostat and put two ultra low amp computer case fans up there.

I also made an angled box for the top shelf and mounted another low amp computer case fan in it and it blows air over the fins inside the fridge. With that running I never have ice buildup on the fins, and the fridge is always nice and chilly.


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## Bearhog

Wow. How'd you route the wiring inside the fridge. It sounds like a great idea.

Thanks.


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## BoaterDan

Wired into the fridge light... just make sure you do it on the "hot" side before the switch.









Somebody makes a product that clips on the fins, but I had more fun making it and saving the $$.

I wouldn't waste your money on the little battery-operated ones that sit on a shelf. They just don't move enough air to make a difference.


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## vdub

> My theroy " if the beer is cold, the refrigerator is working just fine"


That was said in jest, I'm sure. But..... We have been on the road an average of 8 months a year for the past 6 years with our 28FRLS. We have camped in everything from 0F to 110F. We've had the fridge on both electricity and gas. I think the above quote is about right. We haven't been sick and nothing has ever spoiled.

I do have some cheesy little stick-on temp things, but they are typically inaccurate and I don't think I've looked at them since about an hour after I stuck them in.


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## mountainlady56

The weather gets pretty hot, in GA, and I camp in FL, as well. The best way I've found to keep my fridge cold enough, is to use one of the battery-powered fans, placed on a shelf, and a freezer-pak placed nearby. 
I carry two freezer paks and rotate them from freezer to fridge, daily. My fridge stays plenty cold, according to the thermometer, AND any beverage of choice! Plus, if we take a trip, for the day, I always have a freezer pak to keep drinks cool, there, too!!
It's probably opened about as much as my fridge at home, too!!
Darlene


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## vdub

I think one of the keys to having a smooth running fridge is to keep it and the freezer section stuffed full. The "already cold" food, meat, beer, water, etc will moderate any temperature shifts and get you thru the hot afternoons.

On travel days, I always turn the gas completely off and the fridge just becomes a big ice box. I know some people travel with the gas on and the fridge running, but if you get in an accident, it could be bad. Again, we have never had a problem and it's because the fridge is stuffed full of cold groceries. I think we could probably go two days without gas or electricity and not have any spoilage.


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## BoaterDan

Here's the homemade fan box thing I mentioned above. I put a switch on it so I could turn it off if dry camping, but it draws very little power.


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## vdub

I guess that might help in some situations...

If you ever want to build something like that again, you might want to look into using door skins or pallet covers. Most any local lumber yard (not the big blocks) will give you pallet covers free. Pallet covers are basically door skins that have had a hard life while protecting the contents on a pallet while in-transit. You can usually find a couple square feet of usable material.

It's a thin (1/8 inch) plywood. You have to glue vs screw, but it's an easy material to work with and, with a little engineering, can be very strong. I have made a lot of shelves and boxes with it.


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## BoaterDan

Yes, if by "some situations" you mean any time the fridge is not working as well as it could.









My fins used to be starting to ice up after a few days, and I've had none since installing this. It's made a measurable difference in the performance of the fridge based on the overall temperature and consistency throughout the box - the thermometer doesn't lie.

I just threw it together with some scrap stuff I had around. Obviously, I'm not one to care too much about the cosmetics of it.


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