# Autoride Question



## borntorv (Apr 13, 2004)

Hi all and happy holidays to you,

I recently purchased the 2002 Suburban in my sig and it came with the "Autoride" feature. In looking at some of the posts on that "other" web site I noticed questions were raised about properly hooking up the hitch with autoride. Since the camper's put away for the winter







I can't play around with it myself. For any of you who have experience/knowledge of this subject please let me know if you found it necessary to modify the "normal" procedure for hooking up with a W/D hitch.

Thanks for you help,

Greg


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## shake1969 (Sep 21, 2004)

While I don't own a GM, my Navigator has a level-ride system installed. When I hook up the bars on the hitch, I make sure I flip the switch to turn off the level ride system at least 30 minutes beforehand. That's supposed to let the airbags deflate.

Then, I hook-up and tighten the bars down. Last, flip the level ride back on.

Apparently if you hitch up with bags inflated, you defeat the WD hitch.

Don't know how it works on a your Suburban, but it's probably similar.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

I think the autoride on your 2500 suburban works only on the rear axle. Our yukon has the full autoride/autolevel option which controls both the front and rear.

When I hook up, I always have the truck running and the compressor kicks in and levels the truck as soon as I drop the ball on the hitch. Then I hook up the wd bars and away we go







I don't do anything special when hooking up. Because of the autoride/autolevel, I had to tinker around with this trailer hitch setup until it "felt" right towing. Too much weight moved forward and we got some sway, too much in the back and the back of the truck was soft. I finally got it so it felt good and towed well and left it there.

I did have our previous trailer weighed at the dealer we bought it from. They did wind up adjusting the hitch head to transfer more weight to the front axle. From what they told me, the only really accurate way to set up the wd with the autoride/autolevel is to weigh it and keep adjusting the hitch until it's right.

From what I've read, I would think with the autoride, setting up the wd with the truck off would work. If it doesn't feel quite right, you can always adjust it.

Mike


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

I own a Denali with autoride/autolevel and love it. You will notice a difference with this option. My truck always sits level regardless of weight. (TT or TV).

This is what I have experienced with 1 season on towing. (I have played with numerous combination, but I follow this routine now)

1 - Back up TV to TT until ball and hitch line up.
2 - Shut truck off - (Mainly because I do not ike sucking exhaust fumes)
3 - Lower TT onto TV hitch and attach all cnnections
4 - W/D bars are next (I have towed without as well)
5 - Do a walk around the TT and TV for a last check
6 - Start truck. The truck will now level itself
7 - Check all lights to ensure connections are good
8 - Drive away.

The difference with W/D Bars and no W/D bars is simplying a less bouncey feel while driving. The truck will level itself regardless if you have W/D bars or not. The W/D bars, I find give a bit stiffer ride (less "bounce" which I prefer)

My advice is to play around and tow the same route locally until you find the setup that you like best.

Thor


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

borntorv,

The key thing to note is that the 3/4 ton Autoride is different from the 1/2 ton Autoride (I wish GM had defined these differently!







) The 3/4 ton Autoride does not have the autolevel feature. Thus there is no difference in hitching up.

For the 1/2 ton Autoride, the autolevel feature does add some additional effort to the initial hitch adjustment, but connects and runs fine once properly set up.


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## Twins Make 4 (Apr 25, 2004)

Without double checking my owners manual, I recall that the autoride takes a few miles to adjust. 5-7 miles or something like that. With that being the case, wouldn't you want to drive a bit to let it find 'level' before making adjustments? I know when I hook up, my burb is a little low in the back. When we stop in route, things have leveled up nicely. Check the manual to confirm, I'm going by memory. Which, by the way has become less and less reliable.

Good thread for us GM owners.

TM 4


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## borntorv (Apr 13, 2004)

Thanks to all for your input,

After a little more research







and confirmation from Jevi, it appears that with the 3/4-ton version of the Burb nothing out of the ordinary is required when hooking up.







It's the autoleveling feature on some (not all) of the 1500's that can require some additional consideration. The autoride feature affects more of the handeling characteristics then leveling issues.

Thanks again







,

Greg


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

borntorv said:


> Thanks to all for your input,
> 
> After a little more research
> 
> ...


So my 3/4 ton Suburban (with "autoride") will not auto level when I attach the trailer? Why is this enabled on the 1500 but not the 2500?

Jim


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Probably for the same illogical reason the GM designers felt an Aux tranny cooler wasn't needed on the 1500 Avalanche, the only light duty truck in the GM line that it was not an option on, even with the tow package!


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Just one last note on this because I'm kinda anal about hitch stuff.







With either the auto-level, ride, or what ever you have that changes the height of your vehicle. It's a good idea to at least one time - DISABLE your system and adjust your weight distributing hitch. Do the best you can to get the weight flat on all 4 wheels without the system. Then it wont matter how you hitch-up.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Jim,

I guess it would be possible to hook up with the truck off. The only issue would be when the truck is off and the rear starts to take the hitch weight, I can hear the rush of air as the sensors call for air and the compressor is not on causing the rear to sink more as the shocks deflate. The front shocks stay pretty much inflated, so you will get false measurements after hooking up.

The way around this I guess would be to have the truck off, drop the hitch onto the ball and stop lowering before the hitch takes any weight, but still able to latch the coupler. Then you could hook up the wd bars and then lower the jack fully and see if the truck drops evenly.

Mike


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Thanks Mike, and that sounds good. I didn't realize that the rear of the autorides is not stable when disabled. It should of course squat from the weight, but not collapse!







So i guess you gotta have some air pressure in there to hold it like a truck without the system.


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Jim,

I wouldn't say the rear collapses







The shocks just have some of the air forced out of them from the weight so they are not fully inflated like the front ones. I think the rush of air I hear is maybe a sensor opening a valve and air backwashing into the compressor, or something like that







I don't think there is a large volume of air involved in the system, the lines going to the shocks are maybe 1/8" diameter overall.

Mike


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