# Heater, Hot Water And Other Help



## samvalaw (Feb 17, 2005)

We are attempting to work the bugs out of our "new" used 03 21rs. I cannot get the furnace to light. I have replaced batteries in remote, reset the remote, checked the propane tanks and still nothing. I am not a handyman, so unless its a minor fix, I will probably get hosed by a dealer. I have no warranty.

The hot water heater has a bypass valve. Which direction is open, which is closed.

Part of the front wall by the lower bunk seems real thin and brittle. I pushed on one spot and put a small crack in the wall board. What problem does this sound like? I see no evidence of water leakage, past or present.

Any thoughts are appreciated.


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Steve,

I cannot comment on the furnace problem. The 2004 models became fully automatic (nothing to light).

Regarding the bypass, if the handle is in line with the hose, it is open. To bypass the HWH, turn the dial away from the hose.

Randy


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

I hope this will help with your furnace problems. First there may be air in the lines, try turning on the stove and make sure it lights, this should get most of the air out. Next put the temp setting on the remote to 80 and point it at the roof unit and turn on the furnace, repeat this a couple of times if needed. 
At start up the sequence should be the main fan starts and purges combustion air through the heat exchanger, after a short time the sail switch makes and starts the ignitor( I think you should hear clicking), after pilot is made the main gas valve opens and you have heat.
The only other thing that may be off is the main gas shut off inside the return air grill but in order to shut it down the grill would have to be removed, this most likely is not the case. Another remote problem may be that the outside air intake/exhaust is blocked, when the fan starts check for air flow and heat. 
If the furnace still does not light it will have to be checked by a service tech. good luck, Kirk


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

It usually takes a few cycles to get the furnace running. Water heater too, if they haven't been on in awhile. It's normal.

The manual says, after 3 attempts to light, stop and bring it to service dept. It also says to have the furnace serviced by a qualified tech each year. If you've tried everything, maybe you should bring it in. (safety reasons)

The 2003 Suburban furnace has a 2 year warranty. (3 on heat exchanger) Maybe your's is still covered.

Water heater:
The bypass lever should have a pointy end. It points the direction of the water flow. (shooting from memory here)


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Steve

Like Randy stated for the bypass. Handle of valve should point in direction of hose.

Like Kirk stated for the furnace. Also make sure the TT is on shore power. If your batteries are low the furnace will not light. Also when you point the remote to ceiling you should here a beep.

Good Luck

Thor


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

You could try diconnecting the battery, wait 15-20 seconds and reconnect. Sometimes the relay circuitry for the A/C-furnace gets hung up and needs to be reset. Mine has done that at the beginning of the season. Worth a try anyway.

Mike


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## samvalaw (Feb 17, 2005)

Thanks for the tips. I have done them all, still no heat. I hear the clicking noise, as if it is trying to light, that happens 2 or 3 times, several clicks each time, and then it turns off. The fan turns on like it is supposed to, but it doesn't seem to want to light. I removed the grill and the front cover of the furnace from inside the trailer and saw nothing that I could attempt to adjust. air blows from the outside vent, however, it is cool air....


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Hmmm...sounds to me like you are doing everything right, and the unit WANTS to light. Are you able to run the refrigerator on gas? That will get the gas flowing right up to the furnace. It often takes me a few tries (of turning the fridge on and off) to get it functioning on gas (take the gas time to get to the fridge). If you can get the fridge going on gas, I think the furnace will light.

Randy


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Had sort of the same problem on my 2005 23RS ... and I picked it up 13 days after it left the factory ... dealer talked me through it just fine...

Make sure all the fuses are good and circuits are closed.

Go outside and disconnect the power AC and Battery -- let it sit for a minute...

Reconnect the battery and the AC

Go into the kitchen and turn on all three burners and let them run for a 2 minutes on full.

Turn them off.

Stand at the door and with the remote turn the temp up to highest (90? ) and click through the entire list -- furn .. cool .. dry .. fan .. and back to heat ... (ok the door trick is becuase the dealer said if you stand too close to the furnace while using the remote the furnace sensor wont see the IR Beam -- from the door it works fine)

Listen for the beep each time....

stop this time on furn...

it should light fine and always lite fine afterwards....

---

sometimes if the circuit has not been used for a while or if there is air in the line it won't work .. this takes care of both ...

after that fire up the hot water heater and within 5 minutes you should have hot water .. (make sure though that you have water in the heater BEFORE you fire it up or you will ruin it)


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## samvalaw (Feb 17, 2005)

Thank you everyone. I now have heat. This forum is going to save me a fortune in repair bills.


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## BigBadBrain (Aug 26, 2004)

Service managers everywhere just felt a cold presence pass by...


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## campnfan (Jan 30, 2005)

Not too long ago I was helping a friend with ignition of the hot water heater and furnace on a Coachman camper. He is a master electrician and I am a mechanical engineer. We are both too proud to take something to the dealer for repair. Two weeks later he called a freind with a similar camper and explained the problem. They immediately told him to check the intake and exhaust vents that lead to the outside of the camper. Specifically looking for wasp nests, mud dobbers, and especially dense cob webs. We did this and low and behold the exhaust vent was completely clogged with a cob web. Worked perfect after removal of the web. I plan to put a screen wire in my camper to eliminate the wasps and mud dobbers at least. Good luck.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

campnfan said:


> I plan to put a screen wire in my camper to eliminate the wasps and mud dobbers at least.
> [snapback]28662[/snapback]​


Be very careful with the screen thing. My Suburban owners manual specifically states:

*WARNING!*
Do not isnstall screens over the vent for any reason. Screens will become restricted and cause unsafe furnace operation. Accessories are being marketed for RV products which we do not recommend. For your safety, only factory authorized parts are to be used on your furnace.

PS...glad you got your furnace running!


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

My dealer installed two screens on the two circular intake/outake areas on the side of the trailer (not exactly sure what they are called) and then put some pesticide traps in the hot water heater/furnace area door and the back of the refridgerator door (bascially all that "stuff" that opens up on the outside of the trailer).

The screens are super easy to clean and crawly things cant get into the trailer. Becuase around here . once they get in they never get out...


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Ghosty...
I know the screens you are talking about. I almost put them on my furnace...until I read the manual closely. Funny that the dealer would install them at all. I guess they didn't read the manual.

I think it's a great idea, but maybe they should be removed while using the furnace. It's up to the user, I guess.

The manufacturer may not honor a warranty fix with them installed. However, I would be more concerned with the statement UNSAFE FURNACE OPERATION, and the square around it.

Just my thoughts.


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