# Plastic Plug For Water Heater



## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Just returned from camping this weekend and the water heater plug broke in half while I was unscrewing it.

About 2 hours before we break camp, I shut off the water heater. After we dump, I crawl under the camper and remove the drain caps on all three fresh water outlets. I also unscrew the water heater plug. As I drive home, the entire fresh water system is drained. I have done this every time on every trip.

Today while removing the hot water tank plug it twisted in half leaving most of the plug still screwed into the tank. I tried everything yet it would not budge. Eventually I used a small knife and needle-nosed pliers to get it out.

I am guessing that over time these plugs degrade from the heat they are subjected to (Outback water heaters work WELL). So, before the Rocky Mountain Rally this weekend I need to get a few additional plugs. I will replace them yearly now so I don't have to endure 30 minutes of frustration getting that little thing out of the tank threads without damaging them. A friend of mine suggest brass but I have read (on Outbackers!) that the potential for stripping the threads increases with brass or other metal. I also think that the rubber plugs expand when heated to form a good seal. I should have known mine was about to go since it leaked very slowly (drip every 10 seconds) when hot.

Randy


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

The plug supplied with the heater is made of Nylon.
It is not a good idea to use a metal one in there.
I've had a hard time finding these Nylon plugs when checking the big box stores.
I picked up a couple of them made out of PVC in case of emergency.
Still on the lookout for Nylon ones though.


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

From my recollections, the plastic (or nylon) plug is a 1/2-inch NPT (National Pipe Thread) size. I don't think a brass plug would be prone to strip if started one full turn by hand before using a wrench or channel-locks. Use a few wraps of teflon tape and don't overtighten it.

I'm sure that with the plastic plug it would be impossible to strip the tank's female threads. Also, I would suspect that the plastic plug would fail more from excessive torque rather than from heat. Just MHO. All in all, the plastic plug is probably the best material.

Bill


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Randy,

You sound like a perfect candidate for the valve mod, that way all you have to do is open the ball valve and not worry about the plug anymore.

Kevin


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

hurricaneplumber said:


> You sound like a perfect candidate for the valve mod, that way all you have to do is open the ball valve and not worry about the plug anymore.
> [snapback]46287[/snapback]​


Indeed you are correct! Please forward the specifics if you know where they are posted.

Randy


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

well after an exhausting search I only found this one, which is not the one I remember, but it still gives you the idea. For some reason I think Kirk has the one with a valve with red handle.


















Kevin


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Ah...but this mod will not drain the tank. This mod routes the water from the pressure release valve around the water heater exterior components. Just off the far left of the photo is where the drain plug is. That is the plug I remove before heading home from camping to completely drain the tank.

Randy


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Check again, there is a drain valve to the left that drains the tank, Really it is there, want to borrow a contact?
















It looks like a gas cock shutoff valve, you can see the flare connection end and to the left of it is the actual handle part. I can see a short brass nipple piece and then the valve with 1/2" FIP connection screwed on.

Kevin


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Right! Sorry, there it is...

Thanks, Randy


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

About draining the hot water tank Randy. Not sure why you do but it must be a good reason







I have not drained mine at all and since I have never winterized this unit, it could be different. On my last trailer and my fathers current one, when you remove the plug to drain the tank it did not fully empty it. I used to put a piece of small rubber automotive vacuum hose and siphon a lot more out of the tank including some small debris.

I was surprised at how much extra water was still in there. If you have the opportunity Randy to try it I would be curious if the Outbacks are the same.

John


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

One thing to remember when draining the hot water tank is to make sure it is full again before you turn on the electric element or gas burner.


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## mswalt (Sep 14, 2004)

> One thing to remember when draining the hot water tank is to make sure it is full again before you turn on the electric element or gas burner.


And this is done by turning on your hot water faucet to make sure you're geting water? And _*then*_ turn on the heating element? Or is there something else?









Just want to make sure I haven't missed something this past year.

Mark


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

I usually do not drain mine, but when I do and every time just before I turn on the heater, I run the hot faucet to make sure that all of the air is out, I do the kitchen and the bath faucets.

Since Randy does this regularly I would like to know his technique.


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## Howie (Jun 19, 2005)

It looks like that drain fitting is copper? Is that correct? Just the copper fitting and the drain and pipe tape? I drain mine also and don't like that darn plug either ...............very cool mod by the way........


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

To know that the hot water tank is full of water and NOT air, open the Pressure-Temperature relief valve manually until water comes out. This assumes you are pressurizing your system with either your pump or with a hose to the "city water" connection. Once water exits the PT valve, you know the tank is full of water. Now manually close the PT valve. Then you may turn on the gas burner and/or electric element. A small amount of air in the top of the tank above the PT valve is desired to minimize air hammer potential.

Bill


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Alright, here is how it works when I use my fresh tank for water supply (which is always since I do not trust city water pressure):

1. Pull up to water supply source. Connect to water supply with hose, connect hose to City Water connection.

2. Open pressure release valve on heater, turn on water. Water will fill the hot water tank. Water spills out of pressure release valve when full.

3. Inside the camper, DW turns on all water faucets long enough to purge air from fresh lines.

After these three steps, you have a full hot water tank and full fresh water lines.

4. Shut off water supply, disconnnect from city water, put hose in fresh water inlet. Turn on water, fill fresh tank.

After step 4, you now have full water heater, full lines, and full fresh water tank. Turn on water heater now.

CAMP

2 hours before breaking camp, turn off water heater. After dumping black and grey tanks, remove three drain caps under trailer. The two fresh water system drain pipes yield a bit of water. Your fresh tank drain spews water. Next I remove the hot water heater plug (water spews out), close the heater outside panel door, and head home.

As I drive, the trailer changes position which helps any remaining water in either the fresh or water heater tanks drain completely. With nice and dry tanks by the time I arrive at home, I can put the 26 RS back in storage.

That is how I do it, and why I drain the hot water heater after each trip. I never winterize the hot water heater. All winter long the plug is off the tank and the waterheater bypass in place.

Randy


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