# Truck Felt Loose For First Time



## zookeeper

Went on our last trip for the season last weekend and the old truck just didn't feel right. We normally take our last trip to someplace different than where you go during the season so I was on different road but I really don't think that caused the feeling. The truck felt loose...skating if you will. I have pulled a trailer that was way to light on the tongue before (due to circumstance not choice) and this is about how it felt just nit as bad as that time. The TT (310TB) was loaded no different than usual and the truck was pretty much the same too. I did have wood loaded in the bed but not much more then I have had in the past.so that shouldn't have been an issue either.

Now with all this being said the truck its self has had some changes. I had to replace a tie rod and on the previous trip I had a tire blow on the back ( I knew I was going to have to get new tire just wasn't quite ready too). But I pulled the TT up there and back with out having the frontend aligned and on my wore out 6ply spare and still didn't have any issue towing...everything felt normal. Now I have new tires (same specs as old but different brand) and frontend has been aligned. Now I have a slipping/skating feeling. Only other thing I did do a little different on this trip is air my air bags up 5lbs more. I'm in the process of check the trucks frontend completely out and rechecking the alignment I had done. I'm checking the rear to see if there is an issue there. Even looking at the TT where the Equalizer hitch "L" brackets are and the hitch too...read the pinned post.

Beings that this seems to have started after the tires and alignment that is where I'm really focusing at. But is it possible that with the air bags being aired tighter that maybe the hitch was actually lifting the rear of the truck a little? I know that sounds weird but it did feel similar to what I had felt with that other trailer before. One other thing is when a semi would pass it was all I could do to keep it from being sucked into it. I know there is a lot here but any input would be appreciated and if you need more info I'll try to supply it. Now I'm off to the shop to do some more checks.


----------



## zookeeper

After a day of thoroughly checking the truck, camper and hitch I may have come up with the problem. I did do some adjusting on the tracking of the front axle compared to the rear...it was about 1.25 inches off. Don't know if it was any of the problem because I figure it has been that way for some time but I wanted to fix it. Most of what I found was hitch related. The "L" bracket and strap bolts were a little loose. Not bad but I noticed one side had moved some. The other find was one of the sockets on the hitch head for the torsion bar was loose also. I do not remember it being that loose when I hooked up the TT though. Anyway ALL BOLTS got the torque wrench put on them. I think between the air bags being to tight (as you were thinking Robert...thanks for the input) and the hitch issues that is where my problem was. I won't know until I hook up and go for a ride but I feel I have found it.


----------



## Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch

zookeeper,

Sounds like you are going about solving the sway issues the right way. Checking the hitch component positioning and tightening it up to the correct torque specs is spot on. Other serious sway contributors that you can control are of course low tire pressure, wrongly rated tires, improper loading (back end heavy, or not enough tongue weight), and excessive speed.

One thing to note on using rear axle air bags with a weight distribution hitch. Make sure you inflate the air bags to the pressure you desire to tow with BEFORE you set up your weight distribution hitch. If you set the hitch up first, with the air bags at a minimum inflation, then add air, you will effectively remove some of the weight distribution force the hitch is exerting on your tow vehicle.

Here is a great video that shows this.

Good luck, and safe towing!






Good luck, and safe towing!


----------



## zookeeper

Thanks Dave for the video it was very informative. I really like my Equalizer 4way hitch and it does a great job. The reason I have the airbags on the truck really isn't for an increase of weight capacity or even leveling. We had a 23KRS Outback with a regular old 10,000lb chain type WD hitch and add on sway control bar. At this time I didn't have the airbags and the truck towed the TT fine. The only issue I really ever had was the add on sway bar was actually too light I feel because it still felt like the TT would wiggle pretty easy. When we upgraded to the 310TB Outback I wanted a different hitch and decided to go with the Equalizer 4 point 12,000lb and do away with the single sway control. I think the with the new hitch the truck actually tows the 310TB better then it did the 23KRS. The only issue that I noticed was now the truck had more bounce in it. I guess this was due to the longer TT so I put the airbags on to stiffen the suspension (the truck is a Dodge 2500HD with 8800 gvw). For the most part this has seemed to help with that. I'm just figuring on this trip I had aired the bags to tight and with the hitch on it was lifting the weight off the rear if the truck almost like having to much weight on the rear of a trailer. Time will tell if I have found the problem or not. If you have any other suggestions I'm all ears.


----------



## spidey

That was an awesome video. Ive been meaning to try out air bags on my Avalanche, but always worried about it affecting my ride. I currently have a Husky WDH with an add on sway bar, but just on one side. Ive always battled with weight distribution since my 2012 Outback 250RS is pushing the limits of my tow rating. Im defintly over the 75% mark of maximum.

Been wondering about the Fast Away hitches, might help with my problems


----------



## Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch

Thanks Spidey.

The only thing that would make the videos better would be to upgrade the talent :whistling:

The Fastway e2 hitches are great hitches. They will give you at least as good, if not better, sway control than the other hitch you're using, and you won't have to mess around with an add-on sway bar because the sway control is built right into the hitch.

Of course, I am always going to recommend as the best choice the Original Equal-i-zer sway control hitch. It is head and shoulders above all the rest - no comparison. Browsing around Outbackers.com for a while will confirm that.

Good luck and safe towing!


----------



## spidey

Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch said:


> Thanks Spidey.
> 
> The only thing that would make the videos better would be to upgrade the talent :whistling:
> 
> The Fastway e2 hitches are great hitches. They will give you at least as good, if not better, sway control than the other hitch you're using, and you won't have to mess around with an add-on sway bar because the sway control is built right into the hitch.
> 
> Of course, I am always going to recommend as the best choice the Original Equal-i-zer sway control hitch. It is head and shoulders above all the rest - no comparison. Browsing around Outbackers.com for a while will confirm that.
> 
> Good luck and safe towing!


Im going to see if some of the changes this coming camping season will help. We are hauling less each year since the kids are older and dont camp with us like they used to. They come out every few days becaue of work so we dont have as much stuff to haul. I am the first to admit we may have to much trailer for the truck. Although not over rated, its kinda at the max mark for thresh holds if you know what I mean


----------



## Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch

One thing you could check is whether you're getting enough weight distribution out of your current hitch. I frequently see people who tow with a chain-style weight distribution hitch lift it to the "4th" link - or whatever they commonly use - but haven't taken the time to make sure they're getting enough weight transferred.

The National Association of Trailer Manufacturers (NATM) publishes a book about towing, and it recommends that you get at least half the weight back to the front axle that you lose when hitching the trailer. For example, if you drop an 800 lb. tongue on your hitch, it teeter-totters over the rear axle, and counter-balances out some of the weight on the front axle. This shows up visually as squat in the back, and the front end being raised.

A quick way to check is to take 3 measurements at the front end - first with the truck sitting normal with no trailer, then hitch up and measure the same place, and finally engage your weight distribution and take the third. I find it easiest to go from the ground directly under the center of the front hub up to a spot on the wheel well. I stick a line of blue painter's tape so I have a crisp edge to measure to.

Ideally, the third measurement should be somewhere between the unloaded (first) height, and halfway between the first and second (halfway back).

For example: If your unloaded measures 30", and your coupled without WD measures 31", you would want your coupled WITH WD to fall somewhere between 30" and 30-1/2".

This is just a visual representation of getting half the weight that was lost, back.

Try it next time you hitch up and see where you are. You might need to put some more angle on the hitch head, or use a different link at the back than you're used to using.


----------



## spidey

Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch said:


> One thing you could check is whether you're getting enough weight distribution out of your current hitch. I frequently see people who tow with a chain-style weight distribution hitch lift it to the "4th" link - or whatever they commonly use - but haven't taken the time to make sure they're getting enough weight transferred.
> 
> The National Association of Trailer Manufacturers (NATM) publishes a book about towing, and it recommends that you get at least half the weight back to the front axle that you lose when hitching the trailer. For example, if you drop an 800 lb. tongue on your hitch, it teeter-totters over the rear axle, and counter-balances out some of the weight on the front axle. This shows up visually as squat in the back, and the front end being raised.
> 
> A quick way to check is to take 3 measurements at the front end - first with the truck sitting normal with no trailer, then hitch up and measure the same place, and finally engage your weight distribution and take the third. I find it easiest to go from the ground directly under the center of the front hub up to a spot on the wheel well. I stick a line of blue painter's tape so I have a crisp edge to measure to.
> 
> Ideally, the third measurement should be somewhere between the unloaded (first) height, and halfway between the first and second (halfway back).
> 
> For example: If your unloaded measures 30", and your coupled without WD measures 31", you would want your coupled WITH WD to fall somewhere between 30" and 30-1/2".
> 
> This is just a visual representation of getting half the weight that was lost, back.
> 
> Try it next time you hitch up and see where you are. You might need to put some more angle on the hitch head, or use a different link at the back than you're used to using.


I have weighed my truck and trailer at weigh scales a few time over the years. Not every trip mind you, and all of my weights on the truck and trailer were within the limits. But Im always game to make things better. I have never measured the truck heights, but I have measured the trailer heights with a tape measure, front and back, Those are usually even, or pretty close after being hitched up. And if not then I adjust

I will try some of your tricks this spring. Im not against replacing my hitch with a better one if it helps with towing. I know we will be downsizing in the next few years, so wont have to worry about it so much, or have it feel like the trailer drives the truck occasionally. Especially with a semi coming behind and it sucks the trailer towards them.

It doesn't help that the Avalanche suspension is setup differently than most trucks, since its made for more of a comfortable ride.


----------



## spidey

spidey said:


> Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch said:
> 
> 
> 
> One thing you could check is whether you're getting enough weight distribution out of your current hitch. I frequently see people who tow with a chain-style weight distribution hitch lift it to the "4th" link - or whatever they commonly use - but haven't taken the time to make sure they're getting enough weight transferred.
> 
> The National Association of Trailer Manufacturers (NATM) publishes a book about towing, and it recommends that you get at least half the weight back to the front axle that you lose when hitching the trailer. For example, if you drop an 800 lb. tongue on your hitch, it teeter-totters over the rear axle, and counter-balances out some of the weight on the front axle. This shows up visually as squat in the back, and the front end being raised.
> 
> A quick way to check is to take 3 measurements at the front end - first with the truck sitting normal with no trailer, then hitch up and measure the same place, and finally engage your weight distribution and take the third. I find it easiest to go from the ground directly under the center of the front hub up to a spot on the wheel well. I stick a line of blue painter's tape so I have a crisp edge to measure to.
> 
> Ideally, the third measurement should be somewhere between the unloaded (first) height, and halfway between the first and second (halfway back).
> 
> For example: If your unloaded measures 30", and your coupled without WD measures 31", you would want your coupled WITH WD to fall somewhere between 30" and 30-1/2".
> 
> This is just a visual representation of getting half the weight that was lost, back.
> 
> Try it next time you hitch up and see where you are. You might need to put some more angle on the hitch head, or use a different link at the back than you're used to using.
> 
> 
> 
> I have weighed my truck and trailer at weigh scales a few time over the years. Not every trip mind you, and all of my weights on the truck and trailer were within the limits. But Im always game to make things better. I have never measued the truck heights, but I have measured the trailer heights with a tape measure, front and back, Those are usually even, or pretty close.
> 
> I will try some of your tricks this spring. Im not against replacing my hitch with a better one if it helps with towing. I know we will be downsizing in the next few years, so wont have to worry about it so much, or have it feel like the trailer drives the truck occasionaly. Expecially with a semi coming behind and it sucks the trailer towards them.
> 
> It doesnt help that the Avalanche suspension is setup differentky than most trucks, since its made for more of a comfortable ride.
Click to expand...


----------



## zookeeper

Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch said:


> You might need to put some more angle on the hitch head, or use a different link at the back than you're used to using.


What does the angle of the head do anyway? I have had the stop bolt back off on the old hitch I had but the I just tightened it back up and never had any issues with it. Since that I try to keep an eye on it with the new hitch. I just don't know the reason for the adjustment of angle.


----------



## RLM5150

zookeeper said:


> Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch said:
> 
> 
> 
> You might need to put some more angle on the hitch head, or use a different link at the back than you're used to using.
> 
> 
> 
> What does the angle of the head do anyway? I have had the stop bolt back off on the old hitch I had but the I just tightened it back up and never had any issues with it. Since that I try to keep an eye on it with the new hitch. I just don't know the reason for the adjustment of angle.
Click to expand...

The head angle controls how much torsion are on the bars, which effects how much weight is being distrusted back to the front axle of the tow vehicle.


----------



## zookeeper

Ok...I can see how that works. Then the other adjustments are more for the height of vehicle?


----------



## Dave_at_Equal-i-zer_Hitch

zookeeper said:


> Ok...I can see how that works. Then the other adjustments are more for the height of vehicle?


There are three different adjustments on most (not all) weight distribution hitches that effect the way the weight is transferred: head angle (sometimes called pre-load), frame bracket height / chain link, and hitch ball height.

If you imagine the weight distribution arms as if they were the handles on a wheelbarrow - the higher you lift the arms, the farther up the back of the tow vehicle raises, and the farther down the front is pushed.

Weight distribution is therefore primarily a function of the distance the ends of those arms are lifted.

Bracket height or chain link used is easy to see - the higher the bracket is placed relative to the frame of the trailer, or the fewer the chain links between the end of the bar and the hook on the frame bracket - the higher the bars will be lifted.

Hitch head angle does the same thing - less angle means it has to be lifted a shorter distance, more angle, more distance.

Hitch ball height is not as easy to see. Visualize looking at your rig from the side, with the hitch ball bumping the front of the coupler on the trailer - exactly even with it (same height from the ground), but not coupled up. You can see there is a certain distance between the end of the weight distribution arms and the frame of the trailer.

Now, if you imagine raising the hitch ball 1", everything else staying the same, you can see that there is now 1" less distance from the end of the weight distribution arm to the frame. Effectively this means you are lifting the arm 1" less, and therefore would have less weight being distributed.

Dropping the hitch ball 1" does the opposite - it would now increase the distance from the ends of the bars to the trailer frame, so you would now have more weight distribution.

In my experience, it is usually best to set the hitch ball at exactly the same height from the ground as the coupler, with the trailer set exactly parallel to the ground.

Then, adjust the pre-load angle and frame brackets or chain link used until you get enough weight distribution ( see my post above about 1/2 way back).


----------



## spidey

This weekend went to an RV show, and I see Husky now makes new hitches with no chains. I have been leaning heavy towards the Fast Away, but now that I see the Husky one, wondering who has had experience with the Husky Center Line TS. Price is about $530. The selling feature to me was that the only thing you need to setup at home are the attachments the trailer. Everything else is set up from factory. Hitch ball, pitch, etc, etc. Whle the Fast away would take an install at a dealer that is an hour away.

Any advice would be apprciated, and before you respond, I dont want to hear about Henesy or any other versions, as I will be shopping around for ever.

Price wise the Fast Away product would be about $150 more with install.

Thanks


----------



## spidey

Since we are only close camping the next few years so the kids can come out when they dont work their summer jobs, Im not upgrading my hitch. The drive is only 45 minutes away from home, and we plan on downsizing some day as well. I have been eye balling the 1000/10000 Equal-i-zer hitch series, but Im looking at almost $1000.

Time will tell, if we keep our current size camper for far away camping, thenI will upgrade. But if we downsize then I wont. Unless we still have sway issues after that/ But we plan on loosing a few feet and a couple thousand pounds.

Crazy thing is the cost of trailer compared to even 5 years ago in Canada. The smaller trailers are like 5K more new than what we paid for ours brand new.


----------

