# Battery



## WildRed (Jul 4, 2010)

So, my wife asked me to go out to the camper to see if we had any canned tomato sauce (yes, the cabinets in the OB seem to have become our second pantry). The camper is winterized and not plugged in. When I turned on the light, it was noticeably dimmer than usual. I checked the battery charge indicator, and as suspected, it was down to 1/4 charge. I believe that I was told that when in tow, the TV actually acts as a battery charger for the camper, but I could be wrong. So, I plugged the camper power into a power outlet in the garage thinking that the same concept would apply to any powersource. Will this charge the battery? I have never had a need for a deep cycle battery, so I am not 100% of the care I should provide it. My guess is that I should unhook it completely, but that it needs to be fully charged before storing. So that brings me back to my question, will plugging in the camper charge the battery?


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Yes the converter in the trailer _should_ charge the battery if the battery is in good health. The problem is temperature. If it is cold where you are it will take some time. The converter doesn't have the amount of output your TV does so it will take longer than if you were towing the trailer.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

You shouls also consider adding a battery cut-off switch, that will go a LONG way to keeping the charge in your battery while being stored.

There are many on the market, here is how mine looks installed.










I started with a "Blue Sea" switch, with will allow me to use 2 separate battery banks at a time or combine all batteries (goal is to have four 6v batteries) at the same time. Bought a large plastic junction box at Lowes...used a Dremel to cut out the opening at the top for the switch. Finished is off by painting the junction box black in order to match the trailers frame. 

Now with a simple turn of the dial, I can cut power to everything!!!


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## WildRed (Jul 4, 2010)

Thanks, guys.

Fulminator, it is cold here, by Arkansas standards, but I am not overly concerned with the time. I will just leave it plugged in for a couple of days and then, probably, just unhook it.

OC, that's slick setup, unfortunately, I am not allowed to play with wires around here anymore. Something about wiring a car and it catching on fire. I still say where there is smoke, there is not always fire.









I am always amazed at the info on this board. After I posted this question I was lurking around and found the thread about the Dometic refrigerator recall that was stickied forever ago. And what did I find, mine was included.


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## CdnOutback (Apr 16, 2010)

If it is really discharged you may need to keep it plugged in for longer than just a couple of days. I personally would leave it for 4-5 days minimum.


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## mike (Dec 17, 2006)

Word of caution, make sure u check the water in the battery. If u keep it pluged in for a long period of time u can cook the battery. Dont ask me how i know this.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

Plugging it in will charge it, but be warned, once disconnected from shore power there is enough stuff drawing power from the battery(s) that unless they are disconnected, they will be discharged in from 2-6 weeks depending on what battery setup you have. The Stereo is the biggest draw, when "off" it really is in "standby" drawing enough power to slowly discharge the battery. That along with the LP detector, CO detector and smoke detector that are hooked to the battery all the time ends up draining the battery(s) if you don't disconnect it. I measured the battery discharge current with everything turned "off" and IIRC there is still about 0.2A discharge, most from the stereo. Either disconnect the battery, or do as others have done and install a good disconnect switch. Personally I prefer the blue sea switch like Oregon Camper uses. I mounted mine inside the pass through rather than outside, but either scheme works well. If you don't disconnect the battery, at least pop the fuse(s) for the stereo.


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

Depending on how long you are in storage, you may want to pull the battery(ies) out and take them inside. Put them in your basement or such, on some cardboard, and put a battery charger on them for a day. Check the water level first (see above from Mike). Charge until your hydrometer (you do have one, right?







) shows full charge and then stop your charging.

Come back and charge again maybe 30 days later--you do NOT want to use a regular battery charger full time -- it will "boil off" the water and then you get to buy new batteries. Just run it for maybe 24 hours a month to "top off" the charge, checking the water level first. That's where the hydrometer really helps.

A battery cutoff is definitely needed; I use a simple knife-switch but the nicer ones are shown by Oregon_camper above. The reason is as said--the stereo, propane detector, carbon monoxide detector, and some smoke detectors all are hard-wired into the 12 volt system, and are a forever drain on the batteries. So the batts go around the bend after a couple of weeks--a small draw for hundreds of hours will drain them. Good is to cut them off. Best is to take them inside for the winter...


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

If you need a battery disconnect, this one is about as simple as it gets. It's what I use on the 21RS. You can find one at any auto parts store. I got mine at Walmart for $4. You can always use one of these and replace with something better later if you want.


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## BigJoeCamper (Jan 26, 2010)

I am curious about the photo of your battery box. Is that a custom job or did you purchase it somwhere?

I haven't been able to find a dual battery box that fits in the standard dual battery bracket on my 210RS. I am using 2 12V Group 24's.



Oregon_Camper said:


> You shouls also consider adding a battery cut-off switch, that will go a LONG way to keeping the charge in your battery while being stored.
> 
> There are many on the market, here is how mine looks installed.
> 
> ...


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

BigJoeCamper said:


> I am curious about the photo of your battery box. Is that a custom job or did you purchase it somwhere?
> 
> I haven't been able to find a dual battery box that fits in the standard dual battery bracket on my 210RS. I am using 2 12V Group 24's.


Here is a link to purchase this battery box. I'm thinking of moving mine to hold 4 batteries.

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

Oregon_Camper said:


> I am curious about the photo of your battery box. Is that a custom job or did you purchase it somwhere?
> 
> I haven't been able to find a dual battery box that fits in the standard dual battery bracket on my 210RS. I am using 2 12V Group 24's.


Here is a link to purchase this battery box. I'm thinking of moving mine to hold 4 batteries.

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html
[/quote]

OregonCapmer, i too am thinking of going to 4 6v's rather than just 2. are you thinking of leaving them on the tongue, or going to AGM's and putting them inside the front storage compartment ? that is what i have been debating...

also, are you worried much about overloading the axles ? if your 301BQ is the same as mine, we have axles that are rating to 4400lbs. each, and i GVWR of the trailer of 8200lbs. i am already up around 8000lbs. full of water and gear, ready to dry camp. adding another 200lbs of batteries ain't gonna help. i really don't want to spend $$$ to upgrade axles. i will never get that money back.

as a side note, i am going with 2 80w portable solar setups to charge the battery bank (the ones i posted about a bit ago). in talking with the owner of the company out in AZ, he has many customers that use plastic coated steel cables and locks to secure the panels to the trailer frame. you drill through the aluminum frame of the panel with a small hole saw and loop the cable right through. with the 25' extension cord, i can position the panels up to 40 feet from the trailer to get the best sun possible....

(SEE EDIT BELOW, i hit the REPLY BUTTON vs. the SAVE CHANGES BUTTON)


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

willingtonpaul said:


> I am curious about the photo of your battery box. Is that a custom job or did you purchase it somwhere?
> 
> I haven't been able to find a dual battery box that fits in the standard dual battery bracket on my 210RS. I am using 2 12V Group 24's.


Here is a link to purchase this battery box. I'm thinking of moving mine to hold 4 batteries.

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html
[/quote]

OregonCapmer, i too am thinking of going to 4 6v's rather than just 2. are you thinking of leaving them on the tongue, or going to AGM's and putting them inside the front storage compartment ? that is what i have been debating...

also, are you worried much about overloading the axles ? if your 301BQ is the same as mine, we have axles that are rated to 4400lbs. each, and a GVWR of the trailer of 8200lbs. i am already up around 8200lbs. full of water and gear, ready to dry camp. adding another 200lbs of batteries ain't gonna help (along with 100lbs of solar gear, see below). i really don't want to spend $$$ to upgrade axles. i will never get that money back. i figure i can go over a bit as long as i stay under the axle rating and watch my tires carefully for proper inflation and wear. i have the stock load range D tires, and when i swap them out, figured i would go to E range tires.

as a side note, i am going with 2 80w portable solar setups to charge the battery bank (the ones i posted about a bit ago). in talking with the owner of the company out in AZ, he has many customers that use plastic coated steel cables and locks to secure the panels to the trailer frame. you drill through the aluminum frame of the panel with a small hole saw and loop the cable right through. with the 25' extension cord, i can position the panels up to 40 feet from the trailer to get the best sun possible....
[/quote]

^^^^^
above it what i wanted to say the first time....


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

willingtonpaul said:


> I am curious about the photo of your battery box. Is that a custom job or did you purchase it somwhere?
> 
> I haven't been able to find a dual battery box that fits in the standard dual battery bracket on my 210RS. I am using 2 12V Group 24's.


Here is a link to purchase this battery box. I'm thinking of moving mine to hold 4 batteries.

http://www.allbatterysalesandservice.com/browse.cfm/4,5576.html
[/quote]

OregonCapmer, i too am thinking of going to 4 6v's rather than just 2. are you thinking of leaving them on the tongue, or going to AGM's and putting them inside the front storage compartment ? that is what i have been debating...

also, are you worried much about overloading the axles ? if your 301BQ is the same as mine, we have axles that are rating to 4400lbs. each, and i GVWR of the trailer of 8200lbs. i am already up around 8000lbs. full of water and gear, ready to dry camp. adding another 200lbs of batteries ain't gonna help. i really don't want to spend $$$ to upgrade axles. i will never get that money back.

as a side note, i am going with 2 80w portable solar setups to charge the battery bank (the ones i posted about a bit ago). in talking with the owner of the company out in AZ, he has many customers that use plastic coated steel cables and locks to secure the panels to the trailer frame. you drill through the aluminum frame of the panel with a small hole saw and loop the cable right through. with the 25' extension cord, i can position the panels up to 40 feet from the trailer to get the best sun possible....

(SEE EDIT BELOW, i hit the REPLY BUTTON vs. the SAVE CHANGES BUTTON)
[/quote]

I to have been looking at adding two more 6v batteries. For us overall weight isn't much of an issue, however I'm at 1300 lbs on the tongue with full water tank, adding two more batteries will probably push that to 1450lbs! Means going to a trunnion bar WD setup, already have a class V hitch so that's not an issue, but still tongue is getting pretty heavy as is. And then, I'd like to go from the 43 gallon to a 50 or 60 gallon fresh water. That would really push the tongue weight up!!


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Regarding the wieght...that is why I am "thinking" about it.

I need to weight things this summer and see how it pans out.

For now, I can simply bring the other 2 batteries in the truck and wire them in once I'm camping.

As far as solar goes...LOVE the idea...even bought a 4 panel setup. I took it all back as I determined I camp too deep in the woods to get direct sunlight and I already have the gas there (for 4 motorcycles) so bringing the small generator is not a problem.


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

as a side question, is there a problem using the stock charge controller / converter in the trailer with AGM batteries ?


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

OK, I'll admit it. I don't know what are AGM batteries. Help?


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## CdnOutback (Apr 16, 2010)

Absorbed Glass Mat...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/VRLA_battery


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## willingtonpaul (Apr 16, 2010)

here is a good FAQ page.....

http://www.windsun.com/Batteries/Battery_FAQ.htm#Battery%20Charging

i think i answered my own question from this page. looks like the AGM's are ok with our converter / charge controllers. i asked because many solar charge controllers have selector switches to be set for conventional flooded / wet cell or AGM batteries.


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## NHRA Larry (Jan 30, 2008)

I have a problem with my batteries. Keeping the shore power plugged in, my batteries will completely drain. (ie 0 volts) I do have deep cycle batteries, and have to remove them and bench charge them to recover them. Any ideas ? Could I have a bad inverter ? Is there a relay or something that should cut off charging when the batteries are charged ?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

NHRA Larry said:


> I have a problem with my batteries. Keeping the shore power plugged in, my batteries will completely drain. (ie 0 volts) I do have deep cycle batteries, and have to remove them and bench charge them to recover them. Any ideas ? Could I have a bad inverter ? Is there a relay or something that should cut off charging when the batteries are charged ?


The batteries will not likely be recovered if they ever got close to being that low. You have other issues if the batteries lost charge while you are connected to shore power. Do you have a volt meter? If so there are a few checks that we can suggest to trouble shoot but for starters when your battery failed while on shore power did you lose your lights in the trailer?


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## Firefly (Mar 8, 2011)

KTMRacer said:


> Plugging it in will charge it, but be warned, once disconnected from shore power there is enough stuff drawing power from the battery(s) that unless they are disconnected, they will be discharged in from 2-6 weeks depending on what battery setup you have. The Stereo is the biggest draw, when "off" it really is in "standby" drawing enough power to slowly discharge the battery. That along with the LP detector, CO detector and smoke detector that are hooked to the battery all the time ends up draining the battery(s) if you don't disconnect it. I measured the battery discharge current with everything turned "off" and IIRC there is still about 0.2A discharge, most from the stereo. Either disconnect the battery, or do as others have done and install a good disconnect switch. Personally I prefer the blue sea switch like Oregon Camper uses. I mounted mine inside the pass through rather than outside, but either scheme works well. If you don't disconnect the battery, at least pop the fuse(s) for the stereo.


On my outback if you pull the fuses the red alarm LED's come on .... They will draw over time .... I installed a small switch on the output of the fuse so I can turn off all power to the stereo


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