# Jack ?



## Dan V (May 21, 2006)

What do you guys carry as your jack for changing a flat tire ? Doubt the GM supplied jack wound be appropriate , I'm thinking a bottle jack ? If so , what size ?

Thanks , Dan


----------



## akdream (Mar 21, 2006)

I have a 6 ton bottle jack just in case. If ( and when







) you need to change a flat on the TT the easiest way is to pull the good tire onto a couple of blocks. We have several 2x10's, 12 & 14 inches long for balancing the trailer. 2 of them will elevate the trailer enough to get a tire on and off.


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Dan,

I also carry a 6 ton bottle jack, but as akdream mentioned, the prefered method is ramp the 'good' tire next to the flat enough to lift the bad tire off the ground (be sure to go high enough to get the new inflated tire on!). This is a much more stable approach.









Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I use a pair of 6 ton bottle jacks.


----------



## Dan V (May 21, 2006)

Thanks to all , the easiest solution I completely missed . Drive up on my leveling blocks , DUH !!!


----------



## cts_alberta (Jun 13, 2005)

Been away awhile... with the big house move and the trailer problem but just got back from our first camping trip of the year and while we were on the road DH mentioned that we would be in big trouble if we ever got a flat. So I did a little research and found this thread. Now this may be a stupid question... but what is a 6 ton bottle jack... are there differences in brand quality... where does someone pick up these babies???? Any information would be most helpful









... Carolyn


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

It's a hydraulic jack and looks like this:









You can get them at Harbor Freight Tools for $15.99.

Best place to jack up the trailer if you're going to do that, is right where the U bolts poke through the support plate at the outside end of the leaf springs. This is where the trailer weight is naturally being transfered to the frame. Do not jack up the trailer from the heavy metal equalizer that is between the tires, or from the trailer frame.

Good Luck


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

And to add to what Jim said, DO NOT jack up against the axle!

As far as quality is concerned, a jack is like anything else. There are good jacks and bad jacks. Considering that your personal safety - even life - is at stake should the jack fail, this is one of those items I wouldn't suggest skimping on, if you know what I mean!









Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

Here's the way I fix a flat:
Pick up my cell phone and call a wrecker/repair service. No jacking needed.






















Darlene


----------



## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

I would use the leveling blocks as my first choice. When I was changing a trailer tire back in July my first attempt was with a floor jack. A truck passing by at 75 mph created enough force to knock the trailer off the jack. I hadn't got the wheel off yet so there was no damage but it was pretty scary. The next attempt I used the leveling blocks and it worked great, much safer and easier.


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

MJRey said:


> I would use the leveling blocks as my first choice. When I was changing a trailer tire back in July my first attempt was with a floor jack. A truck passing by at 75 mph created enough force to knock the trailer off the jack. I hadn't got the wheel off yet so there was no damage but it was pretty scary. The next attempt I used the leveling blocks and it worked great, much safer and easier.


Was the trailer still attached to your TV? That must have been one heck of a gust of wind.

I'd also recommend putting your wheel chocks in too.


----------



## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

California Jim said:


> Do not jack up the trailer from the heavy metal equalizer that is between the tires,
> 
> Good Luck


 Hmmmmm......interesting.

That is exactly where the tire dealer jacked mine from when they swapped out my trailer tires.

They have been doing TT's and big rigs for over 25 years.

Steve


----------



## RizFam (Feb 25, 2006)

California Jim said:


> It's a hydraulic jack and looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks CJ, I like it, but it looks heavy? I didn't see a weight listed in dimensions on the web page.

Tami


----------



## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

RizFam said:


> It's a hydraulic jack and looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks CJ, I like it, but it looks heavy? I didn't see a weight listed in dimensions on the web page.

Tami
[/quote]

They are heavy for their size Tami. That is one big hunk of steel and hydraulic fluid! But they are not THAT heavy. Maybe 10-12 pounds?

Happy Trails,
Doug


----------



## wolfwood (Sep 19, 2005)

RizFam said:


> Thanks CJ, I like it, but it looks heavy? I didn't see a weight listed in dimensions on the web page.
> 
> Tami


11 lbs. Tami, their actually pretty small...hardly looks like it would hold up the TT...but it does. In prepping my father's house for sale (an ENTIRELY separate story there!







) we found  1 of these + 2 jack stands ... he must've had it for his boat trailer and, like everything else, was buried under many years of 'stuff'. Well - these bad boys have been dusted off and given a new life. Used them just the other day when Puff's tongue slid off its block, jamming the block up against the hitch...wouldn't budge. Raised the tongue just enough to move the block back in place. Worked like a charm...BUT I still think we'd use the levelling blocks (maybe WITH the jack stands) to raise the tires up if we had a flat on the side of the road.....just "feels" more stable than the jack, itself.


----------



## RizFam (Feb 25, 2006)

Thanks Doug,

That's not bad, it looks a lot heavier.

Tami


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

huntr70 said:


> Do not jack up the trailer from the heavy metal equalizer that is between the tires,
> 
> Good Luck


 Hmmmmm......interesting.

That is exactly where the tire dealer jacked mine from when they swapped out my trailer tires.

They have been doing TT's and big rigs for over 25 years.

Steve
[/quote]

A pro in a controlled environment might be OK with this, but it's not reccomended for the average Joe. The danger is that the equalizer can get tweaked to one side and it's a huge pain to get it back in the middle again.


----------



## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

California Jim said:


> Do not jack up the trailer from the heavy metal equalizer that is between the tires,
> 
> Good Luck


 Hmmmmm......interesting.

That is exactly where the tire dealer jacked mine from when they swapped out my trailer tires.

They have been doing TT's and big rigs for over 25 years.

Steve
[/quote]

A pro in a controlled environment might be OK with this, but it's not reccomended for the average Joe. The danger is that the equalizer can get tweaked to one side and it's a huge pain to get it back in the middle again.
[/quote]
Gotcha....

I don't have the Equalizer, but I would probably run the good tire up on the Lynx levelers anyway.

Steve


----------



## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

Oregon_Camper said:


> I would use the leveling blocks as my first choice. When I was changing a trailer tire back in July my first attempt was with a floor jack. A truck passing by at 75 mph created enough force to knock the trailer off the jack. I hadn't got the wheel off yet so there was no damage but it was pretty scary. The next attempt I used the leveling blocks and it worked great, much safer and easier.


Was the trailer still attached to your TV? That must have been one heck of a gust of wind.

I'd also recommend putting your wheel chocks in too.
[/quote]

The trailer was attached to the TV and a I was on the shoulder of I-80 about 70 miles east of Reno, NV. The truck that went by was going 75+ mph in the right lane so it was only a few feet away from the trailer. An 18 wheeler going that fast pushes a lot of air with it and it was enough to cause the jack to slip off the trailer frame.


----------



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

California Jim said:


> It's a hydraulic jack and looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


CA JIM,

I picked up that very model yesterday from Harbor Freight in Tustin. It is still selling for $15.99.

The tow truck driver who replaced my right rear blow out last Sunday started out trying to lift the TT with a large bottle jack from the shackle area you menitoned. Unfortunately for him, the TT tires were off the paved highway (3"+ difference) and the shackles were over the pavement, so he had to use a big floor jack instead.

If I ever get a flat again, I will know to keep the TT tires (or just rims if that's all thats left) on the same level ground so I can use my new bottle jack.


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Mgonzo2u said:


> It's a hydraulic jack and looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


CA JIM,

I picked up that very model yesterday from Harbor Freight in Tustin. It is still selling for $15.99.

The tow truck driver who replaced my right rear blow out last Sunday started out trying to lift the TT with a large bottle jack from the shackle area you menitoned. Unfortunately for him, the TT tires were off the paved highway (3"+ difference) and the shackles were over the pavement, he had to use a big floor jack.

If I ever get a flat again, I will know to keep the TT tires (or just rims if that's all thats left) on the same level ground so I can use my new bottle jack.
[/quote]

Sweet







I'm heading there myself to get one tonight. Gonna do the brakes on the TT tomorrow.


----------



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

CA JIM,

If you don't already have one, be sure to pick up a 1/2" torque wrench from Harbor Freight while you are there.

It comes in its own plastic carrying box for $19.99. Wait, their website says $12.99! Sum gun, I just paid them $19.99 yesterday. Take the screen print with you.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...?Itemnumber=239

Hmmm, I may need to go back and get a $7+ refund. That's not cool for them to not match their own website price at the store.


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Mgonzo2u said:


> CA JIM,
> 
> If you don't already have one, be sure to pick up a 1/2" torque wrench from Harbor Freight while you are there.
> 
> ...


Excellent ! And will do. I've been using the old school torque wrench so far (me leaning on it and saying "that's pretty tight")







But so far no loose nuts or troubles so this old schooler must be doing something right.

Thanks for the tip, ad printed


----------



## LarryTheOutback (Jun 15, 2005)

MJRey said:


> I would use the leveling blocks as my first choice. <snip> The next attempt I used the leveling blocks and it worked great, much safer and easier.


Remember to chock the other side of the trailer (both front and back) after driving up on the blocks. Make sure the brakes are set on the TV.

Ed


----------



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

Caution is good, just wondering why the tow truck service guy I just used didn't think of it.


----------



## cts_alberta (Jun 13, 2005)

Great Info! Thanks








(the pic really helps.. thanks CJ

I'll gather the info and discuss with DH. We will definately have something sorted out for our next trip.

... Carolyn


----------



## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

huntr70 said:


> I don't have the Equalizer, but I would probably run the good tire up on the Lynx levelers anyway.
> 
> Steve


Same here Steve

Don


----------



## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

Mgonzo2u said:


> CA JIM,
> 
> If you don't already have one, be sure to pick up a 1/2" torque wrench from Harbor Freight while you are there.
> 
> ...


What should the lugs be torqued to?


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

OK brake job finished.

Got the 6 ton bottle jack on sale for $11.99 too









I also took the wheels completely off since I had them lifted. My reason was that the leaf springs and hardware all had surface rust on them and looked pretty shabby. After 3 years of towing I guess that should be expected.

So I wire brushed them and then painted with Rustoleum semi-gloss black. Now they look brand new and are protected from further rust.

If you REMOVE the wheels, Keystone reccomends that while the wheel is still lifted you first torque the nuts to 20-30#, then again to 50-60# before dropping the wheel back on the ground. Then give a final torque to 110-120#. All of this should be done in the usual alternating star pattern.

THEN.....to further complicate things. They reccomend that you re-check the torque at 25, 50 and 100 miles to be sure they are holding 110-120#. Ya think the LAWYERS rather than the engineers did this write-up ??









After that just check them periodically for 110-120#.


----------



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

CA JIM,

How did you get the 6 ton bottle jack for $11.99? The website also shows it at $15.99 (as it appears in store).

Please advise.

Thank you,
Marc


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Hey Marc:

There was a sale sign on the shelf. I was pleasantly surprised!







This was at the Lakewood CA store.

Jim


----------



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

Jim,

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm going back tomorrow to get my refund. I think I'll hit them up with the tid bit about the jack being on sale at another HF store.









Btw, how did that new torque wrench work for you?


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

The torque wrench works perfectly, and did come with a nice blow molded case. Amazing that they can sell such a nice tool for so little!

Thanks again for the heads up


----------

