# Cracked Sub-Floor, 2010 Outback Sydney 329Fb 5'er



## therink (May 13, 2010)

Hi, I am new to the forum but have been rv'ing for about 12 yrs now and have owned numerous TT's. We just purchased, a brand new 2010 Outback Sydney 329FB fifth wheel (2 months old now). We love it so far, but after two weekend trips I noticed a soft spot in the floor on two sides the heat vent by the galley sink. The floor gives or drops about 1/2" or so around the vent when walked upon. Upon removing the vent, I discovered that the crafty carpenter (if you want to call them that), got a little happy with the saw when cutting the vent opening in the sub floor and overextended two of the cuts by 2" or so. This created weak spots in the floor so much that the linoleum creases when walking there. I am sure it will only get worse and eventually "crunch" through. I read about this same problem elsewhere in this forum. I am amazed at the sloppy craftsmanship here, this is a big deal, cause there is no easy fix. I can only assume what I am going to have to go through to take it back to the dealer, wait for Keystone to approve and then let them tear the underbelly open and repair. UGH. How could QC at Keystone let this happen?
Other than simple nuances like lack of real heat in the front bedroom and no range hood vent outside exhaust (that was a surprise), we love the trailer. This floor thing really has me worried though. I wonder what other issues are just covered up?? I have an appointment at the dealer. They tell me they have to remove the underbelly, take pictures and submit to Keystone for warranty claim approval. Sounds like they will have my trailer for a long time. How frustrating is this??
Has anyone else experienced the same floor problem on a new unit? If so, how was warranty experience?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Any way you can get pictures that show the over cut?

I can think of a couple ways to repair none would be fun considering the location. BTW they have to do more then remove the underbelly to access the sub floor from underneath.


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## jetjane (Feb 8, 2007)

I'm thinking it would be way easier to repair your floor from above by cutting the vinyl flooring along the walls and cabinets and removing it. It would then have to be glued back down or a new piece glued back down. Plus, if you live in a cold weather climate like I do, this will save you another trip to the dealer after your flooring cracks in the winter.


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

I will try to take and post a pic. It will be tough because it is in the heat duct upper side. I will try and might work using a mirror. I would rather it be fixed from the top. Heck, might even do it myself just to avoid the agony of bringing to the dealer. I planned on fixing the front bedroom heat duct problem myself anyway.


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

Well, I couldn't stomach taking my rig to the dealer to repair the floor, not to mention having to wait until Keystone approved the warranty claim. I had been losing sleep thinking of Camping World tearing apart my 5'er, so I thought long and hard and decided to fix the floor my self. I basically, measured and cut 2 L-shaped pieces of plywood and screwed them to the sub-floor sheathing inside the heat duct. I carefully peeled up the linoleum around the vent and countersunk the deck screw heads so not to poke through the linoleum when finished. I have attached photos showing the overextended cuts on two of the corners of the heat duct opening, causing the floor to sink when walked upon near the vent (I give credit to the underpaid Keystone carpenter for this). I used a mirror to get the camera shots in the duct. I know that the long screws exposed in the duct look a bit rough, but I didn't have 2" screws. They are hidden in the duct so who cares. The floor is now fixed and I now can call Camping World and cancel my service appointment.








BTW- with the mirror and flashlight, I was able to inspect the entire duct to see why I wasn't getting heat to the front bedroom. I didn't see any blockage and could see the front bedroom 4" flex duct opening at the top of the duct near the front end of the sub-floor run. I noticed that where the main first floor rectangular duct ends at the front, it doesn't look to be very well sealed against the underside of the sub-floor. This could be where I am losing air flow to the front bath/bedroom. I will have to take a look at that when I replace the 4" upper/lower connector duct with a 6" rigid duct (I am planning on doing this anyway). One thing I didn't see was the 2" duct opening on the bottom for the 2" duct that is "supposed" to provide heat to the underbelly. Does anyone know where this underbelly duct is supposed to be located on the Outback 329fb? I figured it would be in the front where the holding tanks are.
Bottom line, I successfully repaired the floor and it no longer sinks or should I say crunches when walked on. It doesn't even move for that matter. Thanks for the feedback.


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## crunchman12002 (Jul 26, 2009)

therink said:


> Well, I couldn't stomach taking my rig to the dealer to repair the floor, not to mention having to wait until Keystone approved the warranty claim. I had been losing sleep thinking of Camping World tearing apart my 5'er, so I thought long and hard and decided to fix the floor my self. I basically, measured and cut 2 L-shaped pieces of plywood and screwed them to the sub-floor sheathing inside the heat duct. I carefully peeled up the linoleum around the vent and countersunk the deck screw heads so not to poke through the linoleum when finished. I have attached photos showing the overextended cuts on two of the corners of the heat duct opening, causing the floor to sink when walked upon near the vent (I give credit to the underpaid Keystone carpenter for this). I used a mirror to get the camera shots in the duct. I know that the long screws exposed in the duct look a bit rough, but I didn't have 2" screws. They are hidden in the duct so who cares. The floor is now fixed and I now can call Camping World and cancel my service appointment.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


good job on the repair. That will hold her!
crunchman


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## forceten (Nov 14, 2008)

I too had thought my main trunk line was crushed maybe but it wasn't on my 5th roo. The front bedroom is just terrible for heat. if we have the bedroom door closed (where the tstat is) our guests in the middle section roast.

replace your vents with close able vents. The vent right next to the fridge/heater can be closed (unless you are trying to get heat into the garage if you have a roo. And you can half close the other vent in the main area to force much more air into the bedroom.

I haven't done so yet but I am thinking there is just not enough airflow coming off the heater. I'm an hvac tech and on home units there are always more then one speed on the blowers. Not sure how rv units are but i will be looking into it this summer.

I also suspect that gilligan did not wrap up the trunk line and heating vent lines underneath and we are all loosing lots of heat underneath the rv. While its nice the underbelly is heated, we need the air to go where its suppose to. Another thing i will have to look at this summer.


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## CdnOutback (Apr 16, 2010)

Are the vents the same size as residential ones or do you have to get RV ones? I haven't look close enough at them to notice.


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## forceten (Nov 14, 2008)

You want 4x10's if your outback is like mine. Closeable, but you have to have the latches not above ground of else you will trip on them or break them when people walk by. The real measurements are 5 1/4 x 11 11/4 outside (lip) but 4x10 inside.

I get mine here - only a few dollars a pop - plastic, and the close off dampers are INSIDE.

You just have to tap/drill a hole an each side. There is a spot marked for it.

heating vents


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## CdnOutback (Apr 16, 2010)

Thanks for the link... I will have to get some.


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

I got mine at walmart. About $6 each and metal. Had to. Drill holes for screws. They work good and are fairly sturdy.


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## BritsOnTour (Sep 15, 2006)

We have a similar problem (301bq), Dave went to check a brand new one at the dealership to see if they're having the same issues - we can't have anything repaired right now as it's our home until August but will still be under warranty - just, by a month - the salesman said, oh yes, that's a common problem!! Dave will probably end up fixing it himself too though, I spend way too much time telling the kids not to jump near the vent for fear the whole thing will collapse - paranoia, probably but maybe not....

Thanks for your post and pics, I'll get dh on the case!

Ali


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

Good luck with the fix. Much easier to fix than taking to the dealer. Let us know how you make out.
Steve


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