# Anybody Else Want A Heat Vent In The Bathroom?



## hallfleming (Jun 29, 2009)

Man I'm tired of opening the door to the bathroom and feeling like I took a wrong turn into the Dometic. I don't think it would be to hard to do a vent. I'm thinking a small vent on the access panel for under the tub. The ducting is on that opposite wall.

Anybody tried this before? I'm sure I'll be thinking a A/C vent would be nice in a few months...


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Yes I would and your not the only one who has complained about that before. Honestly it would not be a hard job. The duct work is nothing special. You can use the dryer vent hose and the metal duct tape to seal it together and drill a hole in the floor to add one of those round registers. Hardest part would be cutting and working around the enclosed underbelly. I would like to do that job, I figure it would take about 2 or 3 hours by myself.


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## hallfleming (Jun 29, 2009)

I was thinking about putting the register on the wall below the tub. I have a access panel below the faucet. On the other side of the tube is the ducting that connects to the floor vents. It's funny how I forget about the mods I want to do until I'm out camping (like now).











battalionchief3 said:


> Yes I would and your not the only one who has complained about that before. Honestly it would not be a hard job. The duct work is nothing special. You can use the dryer vent hose and the metal duct tape to seal it together and drill a hole in the floor to add one of those round registers. Hardest part would be cutting and working around the enclosed underbelly. I would like to do that job, I figure it would take about 2 or 3 hours by myself.


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## Lmbevard (Mar 18, 2006)

hallfleming said:


> I was thinking about putting the register on the wall below the tub. I have a access panel below the faucet. On the other side of the tube is the ducting that connects to the floor vents. It's funny how I forget about the mods I want to do until I'm out camping (like now).


Must be Nice!!!!


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## Yianni (Aug 30, 2006)

I ran a new duct to the garage of my toy hauler. It wasn't too hard but did take a little planning as there are obstacles everywhere on a trailer. Here is a link to where I bought all my supplies.
RV Heating Supplies
Be sure to get a round register that you can close to regulate the heat. When you remove one of the knockouts in your furnace and run a duct to the bath, it may get too warm in there for you. It really is a great mod.
Good luck!


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## hallfleming (Jun 29, 2009)

Well, it's getting cold again and I'm prepping to do this. I've found a few parts from the link you sent that are exactly what I need. I'm going for a 2" vent with damper. I'll use 2" inch straight from the handler to the vent. I see a 4" to 2" reducer. I don't see a 2"inch duct collar so I'm assuming I'll put a 4" and reduce.



Yianni said:


> I ran a new duct to the garage of my toy hauler. It wasn't too hard but did take a little planning as there are obstacles everywhere on a trailer. Here is a link to where I bought all my supplies.
> RV Heating Supplies
> Be sure to get a round register that you can close to regulate the heat. When you remove one of the knockouts in your furnace and run a duct to the bath, it may get too warm in there for you. It really is a great mod.
> Good luck!


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

We usually just keep our bathroom door open at night to let the heat in, but, would like to see pictures on how you do this....


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## hallfleming (Jun 29, 2009)

We leave ours open but the thermostat is right by the door. It's one I installed that turns on at +/- 1 degree of the set temperature. When you move the bathroom door, it creates a breeze. It goes nuts in cold weather....



rdvholtwood said:


> We usually just keep our bathroom door open at night to let the heat in, but, would like to see pictures on how you do this....


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

How about trimming the top of the door by an inch or two to allow heat to get in?

Some other brands have the shorter door to allow circulation.......

Steve


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## hallfleming (Jun 29, 2009)

Mine is i little shorter at the bottom. Not sure how much gap I want due to certain noises and odors escaping that room.











huntr70 said:


> How about trimming the top of the door by an inch or two to allow heat to get in?
> 
> Some other brands have the shorter door to allow circulation.......
> 
> Steve


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

hallfleming said:


> Man I'm tired of opening the door to the bathroom and feeling like I took a wrong turn into the Dometic. I don't think it would be to hard to do a vent. I'm thinking a small vent on the access panel for under the tub. The ducting is on that opposite wall.
> 
> Anybody tried this before? I'm sure I'll be thinking a A/C vent would be nice in a few months...










My 290RLS has both A/C vent in ceiling, and heating floor vent in the bathroom. The bathroom door also has about a 1" gap between the door and floor. During some hot times in the summer....I've been a bit chilly in the bathroom. During cold months though... heated bathroom is nice... if I didn't have the vent...I'd be doing it..or putting very small electric heater in there (assuming shore power was an option).


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