# Hot Water Heater



## BOAT MAN (Apr 7, 2008)

My hot water heater is getting to hot when I run it on electric. I cannot find anywhere to lower the temp, and it is starting to drip from the pressure relief valve. has anyone else had this problem?


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## jozway (Jan 28, 2008)

I dont believe there is a way to control it up or down. I think they come preset for a certain temp with safety cutouts when it gets too hot. Mine gets hotter on propane than electric. I went out and looked at mine and couldnt find anything to control temp.
I bet Camperandy will know








Joe


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

There is a "breaker" on the outside of the hotwater heater. This device is set trip the power to the heater once it reaches a certain point (120?)

It it basically impossible for this switch to malfunction.

Are you hearing the heater come on/off? Is it possible to test the water temp?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

a drip from the P&T valve is not abnormal.

You can purchase an adjustable thermostat but, I would just let it run and then check the water temp. Anything under 150 would be okay.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Here is the adjustable thermostat.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

It is installed under the black foam tape where it says Tstat. Check to make sure that yours is pushed flat against the tank. If it is loose then you may get too hot.


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## Junebug (Aug 10, 2008)

Speaking of Outback water heaters...
I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again the next time I try to take it out?


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Junebug said:


> Speaking of Outback water heaters...
> I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again the next time I try to take it out?


Unless your water heater uses an anode rod, I would suggest a plastic drain plug. That's what my 2007 Outback came with. As far as keeping the metal plug from seizing up again, I'd recommend using Teflon tape on the threads prior to putting the plug back in.

Also - if I am not going to be using the trailer for two or more weeks, I drain the hot water heater and the entire plumbing system, to keep the water from getting stale (or bacteria from growing). (And I leave the low point drain caps and the heater drain plug out until using the trailer the next time. Keep them in the sink, where you'll be sure to find them when needed.) Not all water sources are chlorinated, so there can be varying results if water is kept in the lines for weeks at a time - especially in warm weather. That said, just remember to refill the hot water tank and all the water lines before going camping next time, if you are filling the fresh water tank. It will take the first 6-8 gallons of water from your full fresh water tank just to fill the HW heater and the lines, so you won't get the benefit of the full 50 gallons.

Mike


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Junebug said:


> Speaking of Outback water heaters...
> I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, *any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again* the next time I try to take it out?


I know my Dad used to use never-seez on threads to prevent seezing - so - I contacted never-seez to determine if it would be safe for your application also. The actually make a product that is safe. You can click here to get info on it.

Rick


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Junebug said:


> Speaking of Outback water heaters...
> I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again the next time I try to take it out?


Ours also has a nylon/plastic plug, no chance for rust.

Mike


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

camping479 said:


> Ours also has a nylon/plastic plug, no chance for rust.
> 
> Mike


Yeah, and I can almost undo it by hand, even when it's in enough to seal. Isn't a metal plug in there a big no-no for corrosion?


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## Junebug (Aug 10, 2008)

rdvholtwood said:


> Speaking of Outback water heaters...
> I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, *any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again* the next time I try to take it out?


I know my Dad used to use never-seez on threads to prevent seezing - so - I contacted never-seez to determine if it would be safe for your application also. The actually make a product that is safe. You can click here to get info on it.

Rick
[/quote]
Wow! Thanks for doing the research for me!


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## Junebug (Aug 10, 2008)

Scoutr2 said:


> Speaking of Outback water heaters...
> I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again the next time I try to take it out?


Unless your water heater uses an anode rod, I would suggest a plastic drain plug. That's what my 2007 Outback came with. As far as keeping the metal plug from seizing up again, I'd recommend using Teflon tape on the threads prior to putting the plug back in.

Also - if I am not going to be using the trailer for two or more weeks, I drain the hot water heater and the entire plumbing system, to keep the water from getting stale (or bacteria from growing). (And I leave the low point drain caps and the heater drain plug out until using the trailer the next time. Keep them in the sink, where you'll be sure to find them when needed.) Not all water sources are chlorinated, so there can be varying results if water is kept in the lines for weeks at a time - especially in warm weather. That said, just remember to refill the hot water tank and all the water lines before going camping next time, if you are filling the fresh water tank. It will take the first 6-8 gallons of water from your full fresh water tank just to fill the HW heater and the lines, so you won't get the benefit of the full 50 gallons.

Mike
[/quote]

Yes, mine has the anode rod...what is that for anyway? Can I get ride of it?


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

Junebug said:


> Speaking of Outback water heaters...
> I winterized mine yesterday and that darn drain plug was rusted shut! It took me forever to get it out. Anyway, I got it out with a pair of RoboGrips. Does anyone have an idea of what size nut that is? Also, any recommendations on something to put on the threads to keep it from seizing up again the next time I try to take it out?


Unless your water heater uses an anode rod, I would suggest a plastic drain plug. That's what my 2007 Outback came with. As far as keeping the metal plug from seizing up again, I'd recommend using Teflon tape on the threads prior to putting the plug back in.

Also - if I am not going to be using the trailer for two or more weeks, I drain the hot water heater and the entire plumbing system, to keep the water from getting stale (or bacteria from growing). (And I leave the low point drain caps and the heater drain plug out until using the trailer the next time. Keep them in the sink, where you'll be sure to find them when needed.) Not all water sources are chlorinated, so there can be varying results if water is kept in the lines for weeks at a time - especially in warm weather. That said, just remember to refill the hot water tank and all the water lines before going camping next time, if you are filling the fresh water tank. It will take the first 6-8 gallons of water from your full fresh water tank just to fill the HW heater and the lines, so you won't get the benefit of the full 50 gallons.

Mike
[/quote]

Yes, mine has the anode rod...what is that for anyway? Can I get ride of it?
[/quote]
The sacrificial anode rod is there to protect the inside of the tank. It will corrode with the presence of trace minerals in the water. Most anode rods are made of magnesium. James


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Andy

Great pic and update. I am going to try that. Thanks

As for the drain plug, we use a nylon plug and I have replaced it only once because I lost the 1st one.

Thor


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## Eagleeyes (Aug 1, 2007)

BOAT MAN said:


> My hot water heater is getting to hot when I run it on electric. I cannot find anywhere to lower the temp, and it is starting to drip from the pressure relief valve. has anyone else had this problem?


Our heater gets hotter on gas than electric. Once we're done showers and dishes, however, we usually shut the waterheater off until about an hour before it's needed. In the a.m., I'm usually up early enough to get it going in plenty of time for a.m. rituals...


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## Guest (Nov 18, 2008)

The water heater only has a six gallon capacity. The hotter the water gets, within safety limits, the further you can stretch it by adjusting the hot and cold handles. It sure helps when you're the second or third to get a shower!

Happy Camping,

Gary


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