# To Pack Or Not To Pack, That Is The Question



## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

I've had my 2006 26RKS exactly one year this month, and in that past year I've put over 10K miles on it. I'm guessing it's now time to do the grease the wheel bearings. Could someone let me know what the proper procedure for doing this is, preferably step-by-step and even better would be some pix, and don't forget exactly what tools and supplies I should be using. And I'm guessing that this would be not only for me, but several hundred others on board.

Or should I just shine it, and take it in to the dealer and have them overcharge me for doing it?









TIA


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## bill_pfaff (Mar 11, 2005)

And the experts said.....................

Signed
One of the "hundreds"


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## having_fun (Jun 19, 2006)

doesn't asnwer your question, but the dealer told me to do it every 5000 miles. Not there yet, so I'm waiting as well.........................


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## MAYZ83 (Mar 24, 2005)

Do you want to grease the wheel bearings or pack them? I would like to know how to pack them, myself! I have greased the zerks on the wheels, but thats about it so far.


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

1. Pop the black rubber cap off of the wheel hub to expose the zerk fitting used to pump the grease in.

2. Jack the wheel up off the ground so you can spin it while you pump in the new grease. This step can be skipped, but you'll do a better job if you do it.

3. Pump grease in like mad while giving the wheel a spin. Keep pumping until you see grease start to squeeze out around the sides of the hold-down nut. Don't be surprised if it takes 30-50 pumps to get it full.

4. Move to next wheel until done.

5. Consider hand packing the bearings after 2-3 years or maybe 20K miles.


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## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

California Jim said:


> 1. Pop the black rubber cap off of the wheel hub to expose the zerk fitting used to pump the grease in.
> 
> 2. Jack the wheel up off the ground so you can spin it while you pump in the new grease. This step can be skipped, but you'll do a better job if you do it.
> 
> ...


Great info!

Now that leads to more questions:









1. what is the brand/type of the consensus recommended grease - anything I should look out for?
2. jacking up the wheel -- do I use a floor jack to lift up one side of the trailer at a time (and where is the specific jack point)? or
3. should I just pull my Outback onto some of my Lego-type leveling blocks to lift one wheel at a time?

TIA, again.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

I would use a good synthetic wheel bearing grease.

I have jacked mine up with a good floor jack between the wheels under where the 2 springs connect.
If using a bottle jack, using wood to get closer, put under the chassis close to the spring hanger.
If you remove 2 wheels from one side at the same time, please put something (wood blocks or jackstands) under the trailer in case of jack failure. Do not use the stabilizers as they will not support the full weight of the trailer. That safety thing.


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

raynardo said:


> 1. Pop the black rubber cap off of the wheel hub to expose the zerk fitting used to pump the grease in.
> 
> 2. Jack the wheel up off the ground so you can spin it while you pump in the new grease. This step can be skipped, but you'll do a better job if you do it.
> 
> ...


Great info!

Now that leads to more questions:









1. what is the brand/type of the consensus recommended grease - anything I should look out for?
2. jacking up the wheel -- do I use a floor jack to lift up one side of the trailer at a time (and where is the specific jack point)? or
3. should I just pull my Outback onto some of my Lego-type leveling blocks to lift one wheel at a time?

TIA, again.
[/quote]

If you roll one wheel up on top of a block the other wheel (that you are greasing) will spin freely ... this way there is no need to risk dangerous jacking


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Wheel bearing grease....some synthetic type grease is not compatable with conventional grease. They fight each other. Check with the parts store to be sure.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

He plans on disassembling and repacking,


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## kingzoo2 (Apr 5, 2005)

I have 2006 31RQS....and have put about 10,000 mileson it...how much should I pay the dealer to service the axles?


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## h2oman (Nov 17, 2005)

It's too easy of a job to do. Don't pay the dealer for this. There should be an intruction manual that came with your trailer. If not, each axel maufacturer will have instructions on their web site.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Usually the Axle sites have a nice set of instructions. I haven't done it on the OB yet, but it usually involves:
1. Jack up trailer
2. Remove dust cap
3. Pull cotter pin that traps castelated nut on end of axle
4. Remove nut
5. Pull wheel assembly off of axle being careful to not damage bearings (You may have to back off the brake adjustment a little)
6. Remove rear seal (ideally without mangling it... have spares just in case)
7. Thorooughly clean everything with a solvent
8. Repack bearings with grease working to ensure they are fully loaded.
9. Reinstal rear bearing and seal (install new seal if you bent the old one)
10. Put wheel assembly onto cleaned and then greased axle.
11. Install front bearing
12. Tighten nut while rotating wheel per manufacturer's instructions
13. Install cotter pin/clip 
14. Replace outer dust cap.
15. Adjust brakes

Again, the Dexter website had a great instruction sheet on their web for my old pop up's axle. I'm sure there are similar resources for the axles on the OB.


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

After reading searched out thread after searched out thread about lubing through the zerks vs packing the wheel bearings, I had my mechanic check the axle on my almost 3 year old OB (in August) with the thought that maybe it was time for me to have the wheel bearings re-packed after less than <4K overall miles on the TT.

The mechanic said the grease was still clean and was able to use the zerk to fill em all up with 4 or lesspumps to any of them.

And my brakes that I thought might need adjusting didn't need it either. They were still dead on.

Whewwwww. I paid nothing for that preventative maint. appointment.


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## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

At 10,000 miles and 3 years use I thought mine would need attention also. I could easily have gone with just greasing with the zerk. I had not done that previously.
If you do a full repack plan on getting new seals. They are cheap and the effort to get them out without damaging them isn't worth it. Unless you are lucky.
Try this:
1. break lug nuts loose
2. Jack under equalizer and support frame near shackles with jack stands (you can do one side at a time)
3.remove wheel(s)
4. remove dust cap and remove cotter pin
5. remove nut
6.remove outer bearing
7.put washer and nut back on
8. grab drum and yank toward you sharply (to remove inner seal) Having the wheel on also helps in this step
9.remove nut, washer, inner bearing and seal
10. wash parts completely with solvent or gasoline (becareful in this stage to not have a source of ignition!!!!)
CAUTION when cleaning drum be carefull not to get any grease or greasy solvent on the brake surface!!
11. blow dry caution!!! DO NOT allow bearing to spin freely using the compressed air you're drying with
12.put a big dab of grease on the heel of your hand hold the bearing in your other hand with the smaller diameter facing up and scrape the grease with the roller cage until you get grease coming upthrough the front face of the cage. Continue adding grease to your hand and repeating the scraping operation until there is grease coming through between all the rollers. You now have a properly, completely packed bearing
13. repeat 10 - 12 with each bearing
14. place inner bearing in drum
15.drive new seal into drum (A block of wood is handy to help get it to go in squarely )
16.lube the seal surface with a little bit of grease then reinstall drum, outer bearing, washer and nut
17. while spinning the drum tighten the nut with a "channel lock" pliers until SNUG not tight. Then back off until you can get the cotter pin in.
18.reinstall wheel and check for any play in the bearing
19 replace dust cap
20 remove supports and torque lugs to 90 - 120 FtLb in steps of 60, 90,120 or in my case I stop at 105

I found this also http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...9&hl=dexter

Note While you have in on stands this is a good time to check the shackles and equalizer for wear. If you can turn the bolts through the shackles, they are worn and probably worn out. The bolts a knurled and pressed into the shackles so if they spin they are bad.
Here is what I'm talking about http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...f=3&t=11758
Sorry for the long post.
Bob


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

I have to add that Keystone is more specific in the way they advise you to torque the lugs back on.

You are supposed to torque them on in 3 separate steps.

Something like up to 60 FtLb, then to 90 FtLb, then to 120 Ftlb.

Then you are supposed to do something like a 3 step mileage check where you stop every so many miles (3 different times) to recheck all again.


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## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

You are right. I do that too but left the step out. My Bad. I fixed it.
bob


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## 3LEES (Feb 18, 2006)

Mgonzo2u said:


> I have to add that Keystone is more specific in the way they advise you to torque the lugs back on.
> 
> You are supposed to torque them on in 3 separate steps.
> 
> ...


I have personal experience with this "stepped" torquing. I had a tire disentigrate while coming back from Topsail Hill Preserve. I put the spare on, torqued the lugs, and then stopped again 50 miles down the road.

Every lug had loosened. Not much, but enough to make you think that this time Keystone is giving you a straight scoop.


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## kjdj (Sep 14, 2004)

As a note, part of the reason you would want to repack is you get a chance to clean and inspect the brakes.

After 10K mile and no brake adjustment is needed??? What about the coils? Surely they should show a good amount of wear. It sounds like the TV is doing all of the stopping for the rig.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

I packed mine in June and it was a long project. I talked to another Outbacker that just paid $120 to have it done.

Depending on your skills...time....and willingness to get a LOT of grease everywhere, you can decide which way to go.

Don't forget to get 6-8 replacement cotter pins....you only need 4, but having a few extra is alway nice.


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