# Update On Toy Hauler Ramp Door Lock



## NobleEagle (Jul 8, 2006)

Hello, A few weeks ago I posted about my solution to locking the ramp door on my 28krs. A lot of people liked it and commented on it. I have to say, I felt great and felt like I actually thought of something of use and people liked it. I felt great!
Today while on a ladder completing the mod (I'll get to it towards the end of this post) I looked down and realized I am not as bright as I originally thought. Below in picture 1 is a photo of the latches used on both the ramp door and the rear slide out. It looks like the manufacturer has already provided holes for a padlock ON TOP of the bracket and I didnt have to drill the holes.

*Photo 1*







In photo 2 you will see that I replaced the phillips head screws in both hinges for the handle as well as the screws that hold the handle latch. I changed them to "ONE WAY'S" at least thats what they called them at the store. Basically they are a flat head screw that you can tighten, but if you try to loosen it, the slot is ramped so it will push the tip of your screw driver out of the screw. Hence harder to break in by removing the screws, (which you can see a close up in photo 3). The down side is if for any reason I have to take the latches or hinges off, I'm in trouble. But I can not forsee any reason for this.

*Photo 2*







In addition, when putting this new hardware in, I used clear silicone caulking (like what you would use around your bathtub), and I filled the hole before putting the new screws or bolts in so it seals the weather out. I thought I would wipe it off after they were tight and put a little dab in the middle of the slot where the screw driver would go (see photo 3). The reason for this is if anyone tries to remove the screw, it will damage the silicone dab that I put there, thus letting me know it has been tampered with. Since it's clear, it really is not noticable. I hope this info and pictures help someone out there.

*Photo 3*


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Noble,

Yes, we did know those pre-drilled holes were there and bought padlocks that fit, In fact I posted that awhile ago, maybe you didn't happen to see it









BTW, I do like your 1-way screw idea along with the clear silicone...Your red arrow graphics are magnificent!









Dawn


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## NobleEagle (Jul 8, 2006)

No I didnt see that post. It was probably long before we got ours. Maybe I should just ride the short bus lol. And thanks on the graphics thing


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## mik0445 (Jun 5, 2006)

NobleEagle said:


> No I didnt see that post. It was probably long before we got ours. Maybe I should just ride the short bus lol. And thanks on the graphics thing


I don't think you're the only one that hasn't noticed those, had it not been for a good pdi, I wouldn't have figured it out either. Also, if you take a look at the rear slide latches, they've got the same hole as well, don't know why you'd need to lock it, but you always know you can without any mods.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

NobleEagle,

The one-way screws should work well in your application. If you ever need to remove them, you can drill them out. Not easy, but can be done.

Good mod! Well done!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## HTQM (May 31, 2006)

NobleEagle,

I had drilled the top holes to accept a larger shank lock but liked the way you had done it, no shank showing... no where to put a set of bolt cutters. I probably won't do your mod to the slide out locks as I veiw those locks as an added safety feature while towing.... not necessarily security.

Question though, where did you find the locks? I've looked at Wally World but wasn't sure of the size (shank length when locked).

Dave


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## biga (Apr 17, 2006)

I tried the top hole, but I was afraid it would not take much force to spread the latches open and bypass the lock. I like the idea of the lock going through the handle for security.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Great Mod







Post the pics really helps to understand them.

Thor


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Great job Paul









Don


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## NobleEagle (Jul 8, 2006)

HTQM said:


> NobleEagle,
> 
> I had drilled the top holes to accept a larger shank lock but liked the way you had done it, no shank showing... no where to put a set of bolt cutters. I probably won't do your mod to the slide out locks as I veiw those locks as an added safety feature while towing.... not necessarily security.
> 
> ...


I got the locks from my local Uhaul dealer. I had to go to a few of them to get 2 (actually the first one I went to didnt have it so he called another one) I found them at U-haul Lock Link 
I added the lock to the slide out just so no one messes with it if I stop for gas or dinner while traveling. If I move one of the ramp door locks to the slide out while in transit, it will just prevent any malicious acts. Call me paranoid, but I was one hell of a kid myself and if I can think of it....I'm sure someone else has.

Good Luck!


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## Txcamper (Apr 3, 2006)

That looks good.. I think I will put a couple on my rear slide for peace of mind and that extra margin of safety... don't want that thing sliding out if someone fools with it.


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## HTQM (May 31, 2006)

Hadn't thought about the stopping for gas/dinner and having the slide messed with. I agree, it's worth the another set and doing the mod all around. Thanks for the link, there are several U-Haul places around here.

Dave


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## jayjay (Apr 1, 2007)

I just screwed 2 latches and locks on the interior and its good to go.


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

jayjay said:


> I just screwed 2 latches and locks on the interior and its good to go.


Hi jayjay









Welcome to Outbackers!
Feel free to start a new thread under New Member Check In so everyone can say hello.
Next we're going to ask for you to post photos of your ramp lock solution


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