# How To Level My 301Bq



## villui (Jun 6, 2012)

I was told to level front to back, then side to side before lowering jacks. A "how to" video says side to side while trailer is still hitched up to the truck then unhitch and level front to back. In this video video the slide outs were out prior to leveling unhitched side to side. We didn't know about keeping the trailer hitched during some of the process. Would some one tell us the easiest way to level please. Also I saw some automatic leveling units online to make the task easier. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions on using automatic leveling jacks? The jacks were on the four corners of the trailer.
We would greatly appreciate any information because we think our trailer at the campgrounds leveled incorrectly and worried we might damage the stablizer jacks. 
many thanks.


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## john7349 (Jan 13, 2008)

villui said:


> I was told to level front to back, then side to side before lowering jacks. A "how to" video says side to side while trailer is still hitched up to the truck then unhitch and level front to back. In this video video the slide outs were out prior to leveling unhitched side to side. We didn't know about keeping the trailer hitched during some of the process. Would some one tell us the easiest way to level please. Also I saw some automatic leveling units online to make the task easier. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions on using automatic leveling jacks? The jacks were on the four corners of the trailer.
> We would greatly appreciate any information because we think our trailer at the campgrounds leveled incorrectly and worried we might damage the stablizer jacks.
> many thanks.


While still hitched, level from side to side. Unhitch and level front to back. After trailer is all leveled, open the slides.


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## RDS (Jul 20, 2011)

john7349 said:


> I was told to level front to back, then side to side before lowering jacks. A "how to" video says side to side while trailer is still hitched up to the truck then unhitch and level front to back. In this video video the slide outs were out prior to leveling unhitched side to side. We didn't know about keeping the trailer hitched during some of the process. Would some one tell us the easiest way to level please. Also I saw some automatic leveling units online to make the task easier. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions on using automatic leveling jacks? The jacks were on the four corners of the trailer.
> We would greatly appreciate any information because we think our trailer at the campgrounds leveled incorrectly and worried we might damage the stablizer jacks.
> many thanks.


While still hitched, level from side to side. Unhitch and level front to back. After trailer is all leveled, open the slides.
[/quote]

X2, Just remember to bring blocks to drive up on to level side to side.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

I have a 301BQ, here is the process I use.

I back into the spot and position the trailer where I think I want it. I then check level from right to left. I have a set of boards of various thicknesses that I can place under the trailer tires to adjust the height right to left. Based on the measurement on the level, I estimate the number of boards I need to get level(you get pretty good at this after a while). I then place these boards either in front or behind the trailer wheels (depending on the site) and back (or pull) the trailer on to them. Then recheck right to left level. Repeat as necessary until I am satisfied. I then unhitch and use the tongue jack to level front to rear. One trick to remember on the 301BQ is that you want the trailer to be slightly nose down. The reason is that the shower will have a tendency to leak onto the floor if the trailer nose is up.

Another useful tip is to purchase a pair of level indicators that you can attach to the trailer frame. Take the trailer to a flat surface and level the trailer with the slides out, both front to back and right to left. Once the trailer is level, attach one of the levels to the trailer frame front to back with the level bubble centered in the site glass. Then put in the slides and install the second level indicator for the right to left indication with the level bubble centered in the site glass. The trailer will not actually be level right to left when the slides are in, but you do not care at this point. You just want an indication of where you need to be when you are setting up. Once the slides are out, the trailer will be level, although the site indicator will say it is not level. Also be sure that you mount the levels along the plane of measurement (i.e. do not install on the tongue of the trailer). They should be installed on the trailer frame along the axis you are measuring.

Hope this helps.

DAN


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

john7349 said:


> I was told to level front to back, then side to side before lowering jacks. A "how to" video says side to side while trailer is still hitched up to the truck then unhitch and level front to back. In this video video the slide outs were out prior to leveling unhitched side to side. We didn't know about keeping the trailer hitched during some of the process. Would some one tell us the easiest way to level please. Also I saw some automatic leveling units online to make the task easier. Anyone have any feedback or suggestions on using automatic leveling jacks? The jacks were on the four corners of the trailer.
> We would greatly appreciate any information because we think our trailer at the campgrounds leveled incorrectly and worried we might damage the stablizer jacks.
> many thanks.


While still hitched, level from side to side. Unhitch and level front to back. After trailer is all leveled, open the slides.
[/quote]

The 301BQ slides are quite large and will impact the level once they are deployed. I usually try compensate for this when I level the trailer.

DAN


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

On a side note always err to the street side and to the back when leveling. This helps with rain or AC run off to the back and away from the area where you would be.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

CamperAndy said:


> On a side note always err to the street side and to the back when leveling. This helps with rain or AC run off to the back and away from the area where you would be.


Good point, but I normally go nose down and to the street side. We have found if you go nose up on the 301BQ, when taking a shower the water tends to run out on to the floor in the area where the tub and the shower walls meet. There is a gap there that channels the water either to the front or back of the trailer, depending on how the trailer is sitting. If the trailer is nose up, the water is channeled onto the bathroom floor. Hard to stop unless you install a door or some sort of splash guard. Right now, we just have a shower curtain.

DAN


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## villui (Jun 6, 2012)

thank you all for the great detailed guidance and the answer to shower prevented me from caulking.



TwoElkhounds said:


> I have a 301BQ, here is the process I use.
> 
> I back into the spot and position the trailer where I think I want it. I then check level from right to left. I have a set of boards of various thicknesses that I can place under the trailer tires to adjust the height right to left. Based on the measurement on the level, I estimate the number of boards I need to get level(you get pretty good at this after a while). I then place these boards either in front or behind the trailer wheels (depending on the site) and back (or pull) the trailer on to them. Then recheck right to left level. Repeat as necessary until I am satisfied. I then unhitch and use the tongue jack to level front to rear. One trick to remember on the 301BQ is that you want the trailer to be slightly nose down. The reason is that the shower will have a tendency to leak onto the floor if the trailer nose is up.
> 
> ...


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## rsm7 (Aug 8, 2009)

I do it the same as TwoElkhounds. The majority of the leveling should be done with boards under the tires for left to right and and the tongue jack for front to rear. I have a level on the front of my trailer and another on the side. The stabalizer jacks are not meant to support weight so dont over tweak them. Just snug them up about an inch to stabalize the trailer. If you go too far you can kink the frame and bind up the slideouts. I always level first, then the stabalizers, then the slideout. I reverse it when packing up.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Pretty much the same process for us, but with the pleated shower door, we never get water on the floor. I initially raise the driver's side of the trailer an inch or two past level, then extend the slides. That makes the driver's side either level or slightly downhill, which helps with emptying the holding tanks. Once we're mostly level, I crank the jacks down, fine-tune my leveling and get them nice and tight. Since we have stabilizer struts attached to the jacks and trailer frame, the more downward pressure I have with the jacks, the more stable the trailer is. The jacks are made to hold 5,000 pounds each, and you'd really have to work hard to get an 8" I-beam frame twisted enough to notice. If you're too easy on the jacks, the 301BQ is a very bouncy trailer, and you'll REALLY notice that!


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## rsm7 (Aug 8, 2009)

Insomniak said:


> Pretty much the same process for us, but with the pleated shower door, we never get water on the floor. I initially raise the driver's side of the trailer an inch or two past level, then extend the slides. That makes the driver's side either level or slightly downhill, which helps with emptying the holding tanks. Once we're mostly level, I crank the jacks down, fine-tune my leveling and get them nice and tight. Since we have stabilizer struts attached to the jacks and trailer frame, the more downward pressure I have with the jacks, the more stable the trailer is. The jacks are made to hold 5,000 pounds each, and you'd really have to work hard to get an 8" I-beam frame twisted enough to notice. If you're too easy on the jacks, the 301BQ is a very bouncy trailer, and you'll REALLY notice that!


I dont mean permanent damage but you can kink the frame enough to bind up the operation of the slide to where it may stick in the open or shut position. I've done it.


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## wiscoheels (Oct 24, 2009)

When we had the 301 we leveled the left and right and then unhitched. Leveled front to back with the front up a bit and then did the slide outs. Still do the same with the 298. We sold the 301 when someone saw the camper and asked if we'd sell it -- we suggested a price, and they said yes. So we had to purchase a new outback and picked the 298 as we knew we'd be going seasonal soon. We are set for seasonal camping in 2013. Enjoy your 301 for we did -- our kids did.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

I think one of the more important things to remember with the 301 is that when the slides are pushed out, the driver's side of the trailer will drop considerably. I've had some old-timers watch me setting up and they say they've never seen anybody have to compensate for slide weight when leveling from side to side. Well, I bet their trailers weren't built by Gilligan either! Fortunately, for some reason we seem to end up in campsites that are slightly high on the sewer outlet side and they work perfectly.


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