# Will My Harley Fit?



## Jon651

Greetings,

First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.

I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.

Thanks - Jon651


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## HDOutbackers

My ElectraGlide Classic fits in the cargo bay of the 31KFW. I am not certain if the dimensions for the cargo bay are similar but you can look that up in the Outback literature. It is a very tight fit. The tail end of the EGlide has to be swung right and the nose has to be edged left. I use a wheel jack to slide the rear whell right after loading.

It is rather cumbersome but not to difficult to load. Unloading it can be a little scary with all that weight coming down the side loading door. Your model might be lower to the ground and not so difficult.

If you do purchase it, be sure to brace the extra length of ramp that dangles. I failed to one trip and it rubbed and finally broke my antenna mount.

We made our Outback purchase without trying to load and fit the bike. That was a big mistake. I would encourage asking your dealer if you can test load it. If I had it to do over, I would probaby purchase a rear loadig toy hauler or possibly a very small bike trailer behind the 5ver. We love the Outback but I do not see loading it when I am 60.

Good Luck

Feel free to PM if you want more details. You can see pictures in our profile.


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## rseiling

We purchased the 2009 230RS and were told no issues getting in and out. I ride a 2008 Electra Glide Classic with fairings and can put the bike in with the front tire in the front corner and the bike at an angle. The travel trunk will likely come off as it is to tight a fit for my comfort. We still have not been able to load the bike as the ramp angle is too steep and the bike bottoms out. The dealer has ordered a ramp extension and lift kit which are on back order for about 2 more weeks. My understanding from someone inside Keystone was that they went to a larger tire and did not think about the effect on ramp angles. We have lost a month of use and are getting very frustrated but still think this trailer has good quality and attributes with the exception of the ramp. Word of advice- Put your bike inside it before you buy it.


Jon651 said:


> Greetings,
> 
> First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.
> 
> I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.
> 
> Thanks - Jon651


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## rseiling

We purchased the 2009 230RS and were told no issues getting in and out. I ride a 2008 Electra Glide Classic with fairings and can put the bike in with the front tire in the front corner and the bike at an angle. The travel trunk will likely come off as it is to tight a fit for my comfort. We still have not been able to load the bike as the ramp angle is too steep and the bike bottoms out. The dealer has ordered a ramp extension and lift kit which are on back order for about 2 more weeks. My understanding from someone inside Keystone was that they went to a larger tire and did not think about the effect on ramp angles. We have lost a month of use and are getting very frustrated but still think this trailer has good quality and attributes with the exception of the ramp. Word of advice- Put your bike inside it before you buy it.
Leslie and Ric
2009 230 RS
2008 Electra Glide Classic


Jon651 said:


> Greetings,
> 
> First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.
> 
> I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.
> 
> Thanks - Jon651


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## Gary

Sod16 said:


> Greetings,
> 
> First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.
> 
> I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.
> 
> Thanks - Jon651


[/quote]
Do you have any details on the lift kit and extention.
And how did this help.
Gary


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## JimBK17

Gary said:


> Greetings,
> 
> First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.
> 
> I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.
> 
> Thanks - Jon651


[/quote]
Do you have any details on the lift kit and extention.
And how did this help.
Gary
[/quote]

As I wait for my 280RS to arrive from the factory, I've been looking into this topic and here's what I have found out... The ramp door is a 35 inch rise over 73 inches and short of a miracle, you're not going to get any Harley in a 2010 or newer Outback TT using just this ramp. According to my dealer, the ramp extension kit available from Keystone costs around $160. It's aluminum frame and diamond plate. The ramp extension adds 11.5 inches of height and 54 inches of length. The 11.5 inch increase in height is very close to what is needed. If measured from the ground to the bottom of the ramp door, 11.5 inches should do the trick. If it's from the ground to the top of the ramp, I believe it is still going to be about a half inch shy of the clearance needed but I should be able to gain this by lowering the tongue slightly. I'm supposed to have my Outback in about 3 weeks and I've already told the dealer to order the ramp extension. Once I've got my hands on it, I'll let y'all know whether or not it's enough to overcome the increase in height.


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## dunk

JimBK17 said:


> Greetings,
> 
> First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.
> 
> I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.
> 
> Thanks - Jon651


[/quote]
Do you have any details on the lift kit and extention.
And how did this help.
Gary
[/quote]

As I wait for my 280RS to arrive from the factory, I've been looking into this topic and here's what I have found out... The ramp door is a 35 inch rise over 73 inches and short of a miracle, you're not going to get any Harley in a 2010 or newer Outback TT using just this ramp. According to my dealer, the ramp extension kit available from Keystone costs around $160. It's aluminum frame and diamond plate. The ramp extension adds 11.5 inches of height and 54 inches of length. The 11.5 inch increase in height is very close to what is needed. If measured from the ground to the bottom of the ramp door, 11.5 inches should do the trick. If it's from the ground to the top of the ramp, I believe it is still going to be about a half inch shy of the clearance needed but I should be able to gain this by lowering the tongue slightly. I'm supposed to have my Outback in about 3 weeks and I've already told the dealer to order the ramp extension. Once I've got my hands on it, I'll let y'all know whether or not it's enough to overcome the increase in height.
[/quote]
I have a 2009 23KRS TT and found out the hard way about the ramp angle being too steep. I bottomed my 2006 Street Glide out at the top of the ramp and got stuck there. I was able to get it down but it was scary, I tried this with the TT attached to my truck. Now I disconnect from my truck, then lower the front of the trailer as low as it can go and ride the bike up. Kind of a pain not being able to do it with the trailed hooked up but better than not being able to bring my bike with me! I may look into getting those ramp extensions though.


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## Mary

JimBK17 said:


> Greetings,
> 
> First post here - we are looking at a 2007 Outback 23KRS (the current 230RS) as a potential purchase but I am concerned about the space in the forward cargo area. Specifically, I have a Harley Electraglide Ultra Classic with full fairings and luggage and it appears that it might be too tight of a fit to get the bike on board and tied down securely.
> 
> I've seen the advertising pictures of a Harley loaded into the cargo area, but that is a Softail Deuce (smaller with no luggage or fairings) and it appears to be very snug. Unfortunately the dealer is about 2 hrs away and I don't have a lot of free time right now. I was hoping that there might be someone here who has a similar touring bike and an Outback 230RS (or an older 23KRS) and can give me an informed opinion.
> 
> Thanks - Jon651


[/quote]
Do you have any details on the lift kit and extention.
And how did this help.
Gary
[/quote]

As I wait for my 280RS to arrive from the factory, I've been looking into this topic and here's what I have found out... The ramp door is a 35 inch rise over 73 inches and short of a miracle, you're not going to get any Harley in a 2010 or newer Outback TT using just this ramp. According to my dealer, the ramp extension kit available from Keystone costs around $160. It's aluminum frame and diamond plate. The ramp extension adds 11.5 inches of height and 54 inches of length. The 11.5 inch increase in height is very close to what is needed. If measured from the ground to the bottom of the ramp door, 11.5 inches should do the trick. If it's from the ground to the top of the ramp, I believe it is still going to be about a half inch shy of the clearance needed but I should be able to gain this by lowering the tongue slightly. I'm supposed to have my Outback in about 3 weeks and I've already told the dealer to order the ramp extension. Once I've got my hands on it, I'll let y'all know whether or not it's enough to overcome the increase in height.
[/quote]
That sounds like a pretty reasonable price for the extension kit. Is that the price at cost? Are you going through a local dealer? We've been trying to get a price from our local Camping World. They are not the most responsive dealer around.
Mary


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## chuck&gail

Hi,

Does anybody know how the extension raises the ramp up 11.5 inches? I would be interested in getting that piece for the 230RS we have on order. Anyone got a part number, or pictures? I didn't find it on the Keystone site.

We have camped in a number of places with our existing toyhauler where ramp extensions don't work well. We carry a piece of plywood which seems to work much better on uneven ground. In fact we have loaded/unloaded wifes big scooter in places where folks with the attached hinged pieces needed to pull out until they found a level place. Not a motorcycle, but the problem is the same. Sure would help my handicapped wife get her scooter in and out if I had whatever raises the ramp.


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## Mary

chuck&gail said:


> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody know how the extension raises the ramp up 11.5 inches? I would be interested in getting that piece for the 230RS we have on order. Anyone got a part number, or pictures? I didn't find it on the Keystone site.
> 
> We have camped in a number of places with our existing toyhauler where ramp extensions don't work well. We carry a piece of plywood which seems to work much better on uneven ground. In fact we have loaded/unloaded wifes big scooter in places where folks with the attached hinged pieces needed to pull out until they found a level place. Not a motorcycle, but the problem is the same. Sure would help my handicapped wife get her scooter in and out if I had whatever raises the ramp.


Got a return call from Camping World today. The extension kit is 11 1/2" wide and 54" long, diamond plate and $180. 11 1/2 wide? Doesn't sound right, does it?
Mary


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## Mary

I'm wondering if they are quoting a price on the diamond plated "bridge" between the Outback and the exisitng ramp? Measurements fit that piece we already have. Will nave to fax a copy of the Cougar pic that is on the website showing the extension to clarify.
Mary


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## Gary

Mary said:


> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody know how the extension raises the ramp up 11.5 inches? I would be interested in getting that piece for the 230RS we have on order. Anyone got a part number, or pictures? I didn't find it on the Keystone site.
> 
> We have camped in a number of places with our existing toyhauler where ramp extensions don't work well. We carry a piece of plywood which seems to work much better on uneven ground. In fact we have loaded/unloaded wifes big scooter in places where folks with the attached hinged pieces needed to pull out until they found a level place. Not a motorcycle, but the problem is the same. Sure would help my handicapped wife get her scooter in and out if I had whatever raises the ramp.


Got a return call from Camping World today. The extension kit is 11 1/2" wide and 54" long, diamond plate and $180. 11 1/2 wide? Doesn't sound right, does it?
Mary
[/quote]

No that is not right.
I can not get the right answer from my local dealer.
They must not have a part number.

Gary


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## Gary

chuck&gail said:


> Hi,
> 
> Does anybody know how the extension raises the ramp up 11.5 inches? I would be interested in getting that piece for the 230RS we have on order. Anyone got a part number, or pictures? I didn't find it on the Keystone site.
> 
> We have camped in a number of places with our existing toyhauler where ramp extensions don't work well. We carry a piece of plywood which seems to work much better on uneven ground. In fact we have loaded/unloaded wifes big scooter in places where folks with the attached hinged pieces needed to pull out until they found a level place. Not a motorcycle, but the problem is the same. Sure would help my handicapped wife get her scooter in and out if I had whatever raises the ramp.


Plywood would not work.
A harley weight is 800 lbs.
Gary


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## chuck&gail

Gary,

Plywood will EASILY hold up a Harley. You just need to stop looking at 1/4" stuff. I used plywood with my Yamaha Venture for many years, it never even sagged. Road up ramp two up even, more than once. Wish we could still motorcycle, but with both of us now handicapped (nothing to do with biking) it is handicap scooters these days.

Try a piece of plywood, at least 5 core 3/4", you will be surprised at how much easier loading and unloading on uneven ground is.


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## Mary

Gary,
Just got the part numbers for the Cougar extension ramp. Will post today. Keystone won't sell directly. Have to order from your dealer. 
Mary


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## Mary

Here are the ramp extension parts and numbers directly from Keystone:
TO ADD A RAMP EXTENSION TO A GARAGE DOOR, YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
1 each 222112 (door)
2 each 222113 (spring)
2 each 222339 (support bracket)
2 each 222807 (bracket)
2 each 222340 (extension tube)
2 each 222968 (bumpers)


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## Gary

Mary said:


> Here are the ramp extension parts and numbers directly from Keystone:
> TO ADD A RAMP EXTENSION TO A GARAGE DOOR, YOU WILL NEED THE FOLLOWING PARTS:
> 1 each 222112 (door)
> 2 each 222113 (spring)
> 2 each 222339 (support bracket)
> 2 each 222807 (bracket)
> 2 each 222340 (extension tube)
> 2 each 222968 (bumpers)


I have been trying to get the parts from a local dealer with no luck.
I emailed them the part numbers, see if that helps.
Now I know why I bought my last two trailers in the USA.
We have no customer service from any retail business, I guess thats what happens when your local Economy is booming.
I will be vacationing in the USA this summer, maybe I can get the parts then.
What was the total cost of the parts?
Does it come with installation insructions?
Thanks Gary


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## JimBK17

After several days of back and forth with the dealer, I've finally confirmed that the 'ramp extension' they were trying to sell me for $189.00 installed was in fact the diamond plate threshold for the top of the ramp and not what I'm looking for. The salesman insists his contact at the factory claims they have tested this with several bikes with positive results, but It doesn't seem likely.

The part numbers provided are for the Cougar SRX models and not the Outback. The biggest difference is the width of the doors. The 2010+ Outbacks have a 56" wide ramp door. The ramp door on the Cougar is 60" wide. Page 6 of this brochure http://www.rvsuperstore.net/2009_brochures_/2009-keystone-cougar-brochure.pdf has pictures of the ramp extension and the adjustable legs. I'm okay with having to make slight modifications to make this work, but I'm having a hard time getting prices from any of the local dealerships. I'd appreciate it if anyone who has luck locating these parts or a dealer willing to order them will update us. I'd also like to know what it costs to order these parts. The pictures in the brochure almost give me enough information to ask a favor of a friend's machine shop.


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## JimBK17

Good Evening Everyone,

I finally got an answer from a parts department regarding prices for the parts needed to add the ramp extension to the garage door!

Here's what I was quoted:
222112 door $259.32
222113 spring $22.88each
222339 support bracket $4.41 each 
222807 bracket $10.53 each
222340 extension tube $26.84 each
222968 bumpers $3.36 each
There would be a crate charge of $50.00 plus freight.

Also, the Parts Advisor I spoke with noted there is a part missing from the above list:
246163 hinge $72.38

Total is $517.74 + tax and freight.

These prices came from:
Hemlock Hill RV
2123 Meriden Waterbury Rd
Southington,CT 06489

Hope this helps!


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## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> After several days of back and forth with the dealer, I've finally confirmed that the 'ramp extension' they were trying to sell me for $189.00 installed was in fact the diamond plate threshold for the top of the ramp and not what I'm looking for. The salesman insists his contact at the factory claims they have tested this with several bikes with positive results, but It doesn't seem likely.
> 
> The part numbers provided are for the Cougar SRX models and not the Outback. The biggest difference is the width of the doors. The 2010+ Outbacks have a 56" wide ramp door. The ramp door on the Cougar is 60" wide. Page 6 of this brochure http://www.rvsuperst...ar-brochure.pdf has pictures of the ramp extension and the adjustable legs. I'm okay with having to make slight modifications to make this work, but I'm having a hard time getting prices from any of the local dealerships. I'd appreciate it if anyone who has luck locating these parts or a dealer willing to order them will update us. I'd also like to know what it costs to order these parts. The pictures in the brochure almost give me enough information to ask a favor of a friend's machine shop.


If you look at the brochure of the blue bike on the ramp is not going to get in the garage without bottoming out. Not sure how they got it in on the other picture.
Tha ramp of 500.00 is not really worth it. A DIY mod is in order.
I made a ramp the other day, but I need to modify. I made it 3 ft long and 4 ft wide with 16 inch legs. Legs too high. Need to shorten to 9 inches
Gary


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## Mary

Gary said:


> After several days of back and forth with the dealer, I've finally confirmed that the 'ramp extension' they were trying to sell me for $189.00 installed was in fact the diamond plate threshold for the top of the ramp and not what I'm looking for. The salesman insists his contact at the factory claims they have tested this with several bikes with positive results, but It doesn't seem likely.
> 
> The part numbers provided are for the Cougar SRX models and not the Outback. The biggest difference is the width of the doors. The 2010+ Outbacks have a 56" wide ramp door. The ramp door on the Cougar is 60" wide. Page 6 of this brochure http://www.rvsuperst...ar-brochure.pdf has pictures of the ramp extension and the adjustable legs. I'm okay with having to make slight modifications to make this work, but I'm having a hard time getting prices from any of the local dealerships. I'd appreciate it if anyone who has luck locating these parts or a dealer willing to order them will update us. I'd also like to know what it costs to order these parts. The pictures in the brochure almost give me enough information to ask a favor of a friend's machine shop.


If you look at the brochure of the blue bike on the ramp is not going to get in the garage without bottoming out. Not sure how they got it in on the other picture.
Tha ramp of 500.00 is not really worth it. A DIY mod is in order.
I made a ramp the other day, but I need to modify. I made it 3 ft long and 4 ft wide with 16 inch legs. Legs too high. Need to shorten to 9 inches
Gary
[/quote]
Can you post pics?


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## marker

While not a "Harley", my bike is fairly low and long, and I came up with a proceedure to load the bike.

If I do not have a side area that is higher than the wheels, then I lower the front of the trailer with the electric jack to lessen the angle. You do have to support the ramp at the same angle so you won't bend the ramp/door.

Here are a few pics I have on Flicker that may help solve your problem.

Clicky

Good luck and post pics if you come up with something we all can use.

Gary


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## Gary

marker said:


> While not a "Harley", my bike is fairly low and long, and I came up with a proceedure to load the bike.
> 
> If I do not have a side area that is higher than the wheels, then I lower the front of the trailer with the electric jack to lessen the angle. You do have to support the ramp at the same angle so you won't bend the ramp/door.
> 
> Here are a few pics I have on Flicker that may help solve your problem.
> 
> Clicky
> 
> Good luck and post pics if you come up with something we all can use.
> 
> Gary


Your trailer must be a older 23krs.
It looks lower to the ground.
The new trailers have the axles flipped which make them higher.
I see from your picture the ramp door is on 3" of wood
The new trailers would need 9 to 12" of wood.
Your plywood looks to be 2ft by 4ft wide.
Does the plywood bend when you drive over it.
I was going to make a ramp 3ft by 4ft wide, but I was scared it would bend and break when I was on it with my bike.
I had a 2007 23KRS and raised the ramp 3" like you did, and a 2x 6 laying in front of the ramp full width.
Gary


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## Gary

Mary said:


> After several days of back and forth with the dealer, I've finally confirmed that the 'ramp extension' they were trying to sell me for $189.00 installed was in fact the diamond plate threshold for the top of the ramp and not what I'm looking for. The salesman insists his contact at the factory claims they have tested this with several bikes with positive results, but It doesn't seem likely.
> 
> The part numbers provided are for the Cougar SRX models and not the Outback. The biggest difference is the width of the doors. The 2010+ Outbacks have a 56" wide ramp door. The ramp door on the Cougar is 60" wide. Page 6 of this brochure http://www.rvsuperst...ar-brochure.pdf has pictures of the ramp extension and the adjustable legs. I'm okay with having to make slight modifications to make this work, but I'm having a hard time getting prices from any of the local dealerships. I'd appreciate it if anyone who has luck locating these parts or a dealer willing to order them will update us. I'd also like to know what it costs to order these parts. The pictures in the brochure almost give me enough information to ask a favor of a friend's machine shop.


If you look at the brochure of the blue bike on the ramp is not going to get in the garage without bottoming out. Not sure how they got it in on the other picture.
Tha ramp of 500.00 is not really worth it. A DIY mod is in order.
I made a ramp the other day, but I need to modify. I made it 3 ft long and 4 ft wide with 16 inch legs. Legs too high. Need to shorten to 9 inches
Gary
[/quote]
Can you post pics?
[/quote]

I will post the pics a soon as I take them.
Not sure how to post but I think I can learn how.
Gary


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## marker

Your trailer must be a older 23krs. Its a 2006

It looks lower to the ground.
The new trailers have the axles flipped which make them higher.
The axels are on the bottom side of the springs, and the original 14" rims have been replaced with 15", but I agree that the newer units seem higher than mine

I see from your picture the ramp door is on 3" of wood
The new trailers would need 9 to 12" of wood.
Not sure what you are referring to. One side is supported higher than the other due to the incline of the trailer. I did not want to put any stress on the ramp/door

Your plywood looks to be 2ft by 4ft wide.
Does the plywood bend when you drive over it.
The 3/4" plywood does not bend. If I was to do it over I would put a bigger piece of plywood in so I would not have to squat the trailer as much.


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## Gary

I have a couple of pics of my homemade ramp.
Tried it on the tt tonight but forgot my camera.
I will take some more pics on the trailer.
Also made storage bracket by the spare tire to store the ramp.
The ramp is Aluminum and 4 FT wide 3 Ft long and 12 " high.















The angle of the extention ramp and the fold down ramp seems to be right.
Never tried the bike but it looks right.
Gary


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## bdbaggr

Gary said:


> I have a couple of pics of my homemade ramp.
> Tried it on the tt tonight but forgot my camera.
> I will take some more pics on the trailer.
> Also made storage bracket by the spare tire to store the ramp.
> The ramp is Aluminum and 4 FT wide 3 Ft long and 12 " high.
> 
> View attachment 670
> View attachment 671
> 
> 
> The angle of the extention ramp and the fold down ramp seems to be right.
> Never tried the bike but it looks right.
> Gary


 i know its an old post, but does anyone have more info on a ext. ramp??? thanks!


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## porz1

bdbaggr said:


> I have a couple of pics of my homemade ramp.
> Tried it on the tt tonight but forgot my camera.
> I will take some more pics on the trailer.
> Also made storage bracket by the spare tire to store the ramp.
> The ramp is Aluminum and 4 FT wide 3 Ft long and 12 " high.
> 
> View attachment 670
> View attachment 671
> 
> 
> The angle of the extention ramp and the fold down ramp seems to be right.
> Never tried the bike but it looks right.
> Gary


 i know its an old post, but does anyone have more info on a ext. ramp??? thanks!
[/quote]
Hi. I'm setting up to do a ramp extension when the weather improves. I just finished an axle flip on my 23KRS and have recently purchased a 42"x 48" piece of 3/4 inch plywood and a 42 inch offset piano hinge.(The type they put on the rear doors of cargo trailers to secure the small flap) I had the plywood sprayed with black box liner for extra grip. If it all works out I should be able to pull the door down onto the supports under the end, and just flip the extension over. I haven't worked out the supports yet but am thinking of notching out my stablizer jack blocks and using them. It may take a while but I will get to posting pictures when I get it all done. I haul an FLHX.


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## bdbaggr

porz1 said:


> I have a couple of pics of my homemade ramp.
> Tried it on the tt tonight but forgot my camera.
> I will take some more pics on the trailer.
> Also made storage bracket by the spare tire to store the ramp.
> The ramp is Aluminum and 4 FT wide 3 Ft long and 12 " high.
> 
> View attachment 670
> View attachment 671
> 
> 
> The angle of the extention ramp and the fold down ramp seems to be right.
> Never tried the bike but it looks right.
> Gary


 i know its an old post, but does anyone have more info on a ext. ramp??? thanks!
[/quote]
Hi. I'm setting up to do a ramp extension when the weather improves. I just finished an axle flip on my 23KRS and have recently purchased a 42"x 48" piece of 3/4 inch plywood and a 42 inch offset piano hinge.(The type they put on the rear doors of cargo trailers to secure the small flap) I had the plywood sprayed with black box liner for extra grip. If it all works out I should be able to pull the door down onto the supports under the end, and just flip the extension over. I haven't worked out the supports yet but am thinking of notching out my stablizer jack blocks and using them. It may take a while but I will get to posting pictures when I get it all done. I haul an FLHX.
[/quote]thanks for the info, i like the look of the one in the pics posted above... i have put my roadgilde in trailer before but its 1" lower than stock and a major pain. aluminum would be nice to keep weight down as well. i just called factory, and for as much as i have loved our outbacks over the years, man what a pain in the ass discussing this subject with the factory... would love to hear and see what you come up with, in the meantime ill move foreward with mine as well. just bought a brand new 2013 from a dealer in mich. for a song and dance, get back to ya soon! tim


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## Gary

bdbaggr said:


> I have a couple of pics of my homemade ramp.
> Tried it on the tt tonight but forgot my camera.
> I will take some more pics on the trailer.
> Also made storage bracket by the spare tire to store the ramp.
> The ramp is Aluminum and 4 FT wide 3 Ft long and 12 " high.
> 
> View attachment 670
> View attachment 671
> 
> 
> The angle of the extention ramp and the fold down ramp seems to be right.
> Never tried the bike but it looks right.
> Gary


 i know its an old post, but does anyone have more info on a ext. ramp??? thanks!
[/quote]
Hi. I'm setting up to do a ramp extension when the weather improves. I just finished an axle flip on my 23KRS and have recently purchased a 42"x 48" piece of 3/4 inch plywood and a 42 inch offset piano hinge.(The type they put on the rear doors of cargo trailers to secure the small flap) I had the plywood sprayed with black box liner for extra grip. If it all works out I should be able to pull the door down onto the supports under the end, and just flip the extension over. I haven't worked out the supports yet but am thinking of notching out my stablizer jack blocks and using them. It may take a while but I will get to posting pictures when I get it all done. I haul an FLHX.
[/quote]thanks for the info, i like the look of the one in the pics posted above... i have put my roadgilde in trailer before but its 1" lower than stock and a major pain. aluminum would be nice to keep weight down as well. i just called factory, and for as much as i have loved our outbacks over the years, man what a pain in the ass discussing this subject with the factory... would love to hear and see what you come up with, in the meantime ill move foreward with mine as well. just bought a brand new 2013 from a dealer in mich. for a song and dance, get back to ya soon! tim
[/quote]
This ramp was a trial ramp.
It worked very well, stored it at the rear bumper but was to heavy for me. More a pain in the butt.
I made another out of plywood that just folds on the ramp when you close the door.
Can take pics in the spring, when all the snow melts.
Gary


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## Leedek

The specs of the Ultra Classic state Weight, In Running Order 911 lb. What needed to be done to carry such an extra heavy load inside a trailer? Extra suspension? The frame of the toy hauler is that much stronger? Amazing to me that the design is that beefy.









EDIT: I was asking a valid question on weight. The HD web site has the specs on the new Ultra Glide here: HD Ultra Glide Spec is about half way down the page. I would be surprised if the HD were the only thing in the garage when traveling.

JimBK17 seemed a little perturbed that I suggested overload. "The cargo area of the Outback is rated for 1000 pounds, therefore, there was no modifications necessary to carry the "extra heavy load" of an Ultra Classic." Not the case sir, just a question. I'm one for over engineering so it's just me. I carry two bicycles and I get worried.







Party on!


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## JimBK17

The cargo area of the Outback is rated for 1000 pounds, therefore, there was no modifications necessary to carry the "extra heavy load" of an Ultra Classic, although I believe my '97 Ultra is actually only about 825 pounds in running order. As to what is needed to make the ramp extension, you can do it with the following items:

(Part numbers are Keystone numbers from the Cougar model line, not the Outback. They can be ordered through any dealer that carries Cougar)

2 x 222340 extension tube $26.84 each
2 x 222968 bumpers $3.36 each
2 x 222807 bracket $10.53 each
2 x 222339 support bracket $4.41 each 


The above gives you the mounts and legs necessary to raise the existing ramp door to a height that will allow the stock Harley to clear the door. In addition, you will need a section of piano hinge and a 3'x4'x3/4" plywood coated with skidproof paint. If you prefer, you can order the ramp extension from Cougar too, part number 222112, identified as "door" for $259.32. This includes the pre-coated plywood ramp extension and the hinge.

The Ultra will fit in the cargo area with about an inch to spare. See pics below:


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## Northern Ninja

That looks much slicker than my set up! Can you post a pic of the extension tubes when they're not on the ground?


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## JimBK17

I knew as soon as I posted the pics someone was going to ask this! Unfortunately, the RV is covered and stored right now. Won't be uncovering until mid-April unless I find it necessary. When I do, I'll take pictures of the extensions and post them. In the meantime, if you use your imagination, they are not any different than you might expect looking at the pictures. They are "U" shaped. One end of the "U" is just rounded off and fits in the rubber bumper on the door. The other end has a welded loop on it that fits into the two mounting brackets that were added to the door. This helps hold it in place when the door is being opened/closed and prevents the extension leg from coming out from under the door while the weight of the bike is on it.

Prior to ordering the parts and going as close to 'stock' as I could, I considered many options and looked at many of the ideas people had posted for accomplishing this. I decided it was worth the $100 to have something that mounted securely to the ramp door and allowed little room for something to go wrong and the ramp to shift while me and my Harley were on it. $100 to protect a $30k investment seemed like a no-brainer.



Northern Ninja said:


> That looks much slicker than my set up! Can you post a pic of the extension tubes when they're not on the ground?


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## Northern Ninja

Perfect, thanks! Couple more questions, if I could. Why do you need the 2 x 4, and do you secure the extension when it's folded up so it doesn't hit the bike? I've already got the parts request in to my dealer! Thanks very much!


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## JimBK17

The 2x4 was just to give the bottom edge of the ramp something flat and solid to rest on because the ground where the camper was parked at the time was not quite level and somewhat soft. I was just trying to keep it from digging in. It's not necessary and after the day I took the photos, which was also the first time I'd tried putting the bike in the camper, I never used it again. I've used a pair of leveling blocks under the corners of the ramp for the same purpose.

I added a pair of small latching hook and eye closures to the edges of the ramp to keep it from swinging and hitting the bike when the door is closed.

I also cut two new D-rings into the floor because the factory anchors aren't in the right place to secure the Harley at the angle it sits in the camper. I found them online and used a small router to cut the floor to the proper depth. I use a Condor






Pit-Stop folding wheel chock that fits perfectly in the corner and folds down so it does not interfere with the bed. The benefit of this wheel chock is when the wheel is properly seated in it, it will support the bike, allowing me to tie it down without worrying about holding it in the process. I tie from the D-rings on the floor to the anchors for the passenger floorboards. This secures the bike forward into the wheel chock without putting any strain on the forks. I hauled it over 700 miles like this with no issues. 


Northern Ninja said:


> Perfect, thanks! Couple more questions, if I could. Why do you need the 2 x 4, and do you secure the extension when it's folded up so it doesn't hit the bike? I've already got the parts request in to my dealer! Thanks very much!


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## Northern Ninja

Thanks for the info! I use the Pitbull trailer restraint system, and I love it. It's almost too easy. I don't think it would work for an application like yours where the bike is at an angle. You pretty much have to drive straight into this system.


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## Tourdfox

Northern Ninga.Did you put extra supports in on the underside of the floor by removing the barrier ect.Curious if there is anything in the way to be able to do this.If i go with the SUPERCLAMP system for my atv this is what i would like to do.Now the d-rings are just screwed into the luan decking.Not holding much of anything.Pretty cheezy i'd say.I think SUPERCLAMP has a system for bikes also if anybody want to check it out.


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## Northern Ninja

Yes, the pitbulls bolt right through the floor, and use big washers on the bottom. I got lucky with the placement and didn't have to mess around with removing the under barrier. I've heard good things about the Superclamp system.


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## Tourdfox

Northern Ninja said:


> Yes, the pitbulls bolt right through the floor, and use big washers on the bottom. I got lucky with the placement and didn't have to mess around with removing the under barrier. I've heard good things about the Superclamp system.


Thanks for the info.Hope i get that lucky on placement.


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## JimBK17

I don't use the factory d-rings for anything. I cut a hole in the barrier to allow access, exactly the same as what the factory did for the slide out motors. I then screwed a piece of corrugated plastic slightly larger than the cutout to prevent dirt, debris, animals, etc from getting in. Via this single hole I was able to access the 4 bolts on the wheel chock and the hardware for the d-rings and secure it all. Underneath my wheel chock, I have a pair of steel bars that help dissipate any stress at the mounting points and were suggested by the factory rather than using large washers. If memory serves, the wheel chock is 10 inches wide and there's a pair of 14x2x1/4 inch steel plates on either end of it. Two of the four bolts on the d-rings also are drilled through the frame, while the remaining bolts have similar steel plates to the wheel chock. Unfortunately, I don't have the contact information from the factory or the emails we exchanged in 2010 at this time. They were very helpful, answering any and all questions I had as I prepared to order my 280RS having never seen one in person and without definitive answers to the question of whether or not I was going to have issues getting the Ultra Classic up the ramp and into the cargo area.

the PitBull system will not work for any Harley in an Outback except possibly a Sportster, but I think that's going to be too long also. The space isn't deep enough to allow the straight in.

What I've done works for me and my bike and I have the added security of knowing exactly what I've drilled through and bolted onto. Once my bike's in the trailer and tied down, I don't think twice about it going down the road and I am very comfortable getting it in and out with no worries of it bottoming out or the stability of the ramp. 


Tourdfox said:


> Northern Ninga.Did you put extra supports in on the underside of the floor by removing the barrier ect.Curious if there is anything in the way to be able to do this.If i go with the SUPERCLAMP system for my atv this is what i would like to do.Now the d-rings are just screwed into the luan decking.Not holding much of anything.Pretty cheezy i'd say.I think SUPERCLAMP has a system for bikes also if anybody want to check it out.


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## Troy M

Did you have to rotate the bike once in or just cut it over? I had to use my floor jack to rotate my 09 Ultra (into a 2013 310TB)once in then am planning (key word, not tested yet) to use the jack to keep it upright but not off of the ground then securing the bike to both the jack and the tie downs and the jack to the tie downs as well (I have images of a spiderman strap maze). I asked the question to customer relations on the load capacity of the tie downs but have not heard back yet. Thanks for the pics and I will post some when I get it tested in the next few weeks (Living in South Texas does have its perks).


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## JimBK17

The bike will not go straight in and even with my wheel chock set as far into the front corner as possible, the rear end of the bike needs to be shifted over about 4 - 6 inches in order to close the door. I originally planned to use a wheel dolly to lift the rear of the bike and slide it in where it needs to go, but found it is actually easier to just grab the rear fender and slide it over to where it needs to be.

I am able to ride straight up the ramp and into the cargo area. I then roll back just far enough to line the front wheel up into the wheel chock and roll it in. The pit-stop chock will hold the bike while I slide it over where it needs to be and strap it down.

Once I have pulled the camper out of storage in the spring, I will take some additional pictures of the ramp extension, my tie downs and some shots of the bike secured in the trailer. I'll be happy to share them with anyone that's interested. 


Troy M said:


> Did you have to rotate the bike once in or just cut it over? I had to use my floor jack to rotate my 09 Ultra (into a 2013 310TB)once in then am planning (key word, not tested yet) to use the jack to keep it upright but not off of the ground then securing the bike to both the jack and the tie downs and the jack to the tie downs as well (I have images of a spiderman strap maze). I asked the question to customer relations on the load capacity of the tie downs but have not heard back yet. Thanks for the pics and I will post some when I get it tested in the next few weeks (Living in South Texas does have its perks).


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## Tourdfox

JimBK17 If you ever have the bottom side opened up i would really like to see what you have done for supporting the D-rings ect from the bottom side.I will be doing something this spring on the 280 to beef them up.A little welding will probably be involved.Thanks


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## JimBK17

I can try to get under and take some pictures for you, but it may be tough as I only cut one hole under my wheel chock and from there was able to reach in to do what needed to be done with the D-rings I added. I think I mentioned I don't use the factory D-rings for my setup. Their placement doesn't work for securing the bike. The D-rings I bought had backing plates that were designed to go under the floor and provide the reinforcement we need. It worked out that one set of holes on each of them landed over steel so they're drilled through the steel and then the backing plate adds strength for the other set of bolts. The D-Rings and Backing plates I used were almost identical to what's seen in this link and there's several pictures that show the installed product. 


Tourdfox said:


> JimBK17 If you ever have the bottom side opened up i would really like to see what you have done for supporting the D-rings ect from the bottom side.I will be doing something this spring on the 280 to beef them up.A little welding will probably be involved.Thanks


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## Tourdfox

Thanks.That was a informative link with good detailed picks.The d-ring placement in the Outbacks is quite odd to say the least.I had to move 2 of them.when i drove in my atv the 2 left tires sat right on top of them.This is when i realized they were just screwed into the floor from the top and that's it.No support at all.This fix is high on the priority list.Sorry if my post is a little off the topic.


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## Northern Ninja

JimBK17 said:


> That looks much slicker than my set up! Can you post a pic of the extension tubes when they're not on the ground?


[/quote]
So, I tried to order these parts and was told by Keystone that the tubes were obsolete and can't be ordered. Oh well, I tried.


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## JimBK17

Other than asking them what they replaced the tubes with, I don't know what to tell you. I will definitely post pics of what I have once I get into the camper in a few weeks and maybe you can get a machine shop to make what you need, but I would be interested in seeing what they have done with the Cougar models that used the tubes in the first place because the clearance problem would still exist.


Northern Ninja said:


> That looks much slicker than my set up! Can you post a pic of the extension tubes when they're not on the ground?


[/quote]
So, I tried to order these parts and was told by Keystone that the tubes were obsolete and can't be ordered. Oh well, I tried.
[/quote]


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## Northern Ninja

Ya, they were less than helpful. It was like they had no idea what their own factory was producing. That experience left a bad taste in my mouth for the entire Keystone brand. My ramp setup works, albeit a bit bulky, so I'll survive.


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## Troy M

Oh yes it does (in a 2013 310TB). Did not even have to slide the back end to shut the ramp to my surprise. Angled the wheel chock just a little more left (as sitting on the bike). I am able to effectively use all four tie downs as well, which should be way under carrying load weight with the aid of the wheel chock. Two of the wc bolts went all the way through so I used a framing joining piece of steel as backing, the third I drilled through the frame and the 4th is lag screwed into the floor. The chock is solid. Leaving the bike in when I take it back to the dealer for some quick, while you wait repairs where I will get to test the tie downs.
Tried attaching pics but it keeps failing. Will try again later.


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## Troy M

Troy M said:


> View attachment 8570
> Oh yes it does (in a 2013 310TB). Did not even have to slide the back end to shut the ramp to my surprise. Angled the wheel chock just a little more left (as sitting on the bike). I am able to effectively use all four tie downs as well, which should be way under carrying load weight with the aid of the wheel chock. Two of the wc bolts went all the way through so I used a framing joining piece of steel as backing, the third I drilled through the frame and the 4th is lag screwed into the floor. The chock is solid. Leaving the bike in when I take it back to the dealer for some quick, while you wait repairs where I will get to test the tie downs.
> Tried attaching pics but it keeps failing. Will try again later.
> View attachment 8562
> View attachment 8578
> View attachment 8586


UPDATE: Tie down points along with the chock held the bike solid for the 70 mile trip. Time to hit a rally next weekend.


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## deepgfishing

I posted my experience with a homemade ramp extension here

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=42394&st=15


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