# 2011 Rs 250 And Back In The Shop On 2Nd Day



## Bearhog

Well, we took delivery of our new 250RS on Monday and I had to return it to the Dealership on Tuesday. I almost canceled the check and told them they could keep it, but we like the floorplan so much I decided to tuff out the repair process. Truth be told, I can take some of the blame for not making a stink about the small problem that turned out to be a large problem. We have to have both entry doors replaced due to missalignment. Still love the unit but I hope the sure hope the repair process goes well, AND that we dont have a lemon!

Anyone else have any issues with predelivery repairs?

Thanks for your comments.


----------



## Nathan

Sorry to hear of your problems. I hope they take care of you.

Lesson for everyone to complete the PDI and be happy prior to signing the papers.


----------



## CamperAndy

During door installation there are alignment blocks that hold the door square in the frame during installation, if these are left in they can result in doors that do not open or close correctly. Also did you have the stabilizers down and over tightened. You would be amazed at how much you can flex the frame with those jacks.


----------



## TimbaJack

We ordered a 2011 250rs from our dealer in Sept. 2010 and we've had a few issues since getting it home, its been back to service dept several times. We found a few things in the PDI but most problems happened after we got home (heater quit, microwave quit, faulty wiring in light, etc), not to mention the two recalls. The biggest was a poorly repaired hole about the size of a softball in the side slideout that was damaged at the factory and they used bondo and caulk to "repair" it (or hide it). It started cracking and that is how I noticed it. Our dealer did a proper fiberglass repair under warranty but it is shinier and smoother than surrounding filon and stands out even more now, but at least it wont crack (hopefully) like the "factory" repair. They left the keystone decal off the slideout so I'm guessing they were too busy trying to fix the hole to notice it. We still love the camper despite the problems and are happy with the dealer, we just hope we are through with all the problems. Might try a SOB next though. This is our first camper so maybe I was expecting better quality or just had bad luck.


----------



## huntr70

There may have been issues with them at install....

I walked through service yesterday, and a tech was replacing the 2 doors on a 250RS. Said the same thing, miss-aligned and they sent new doors and frames in.


----------



## Bearhog

Thanks for the feedback. We are excited about the unit even with the issues. Called the dealership today and they've ordered replacement doors already. I bet there is a real "love hate" relationship between Mfg's and Dealers. I wonder if there is any quality control at the factories.


----------



## Camping Family From MI

So, sorry to here about the issue with your 250rs. We have been there and truly know your frustration.


----------



## Oregon_Camper

If I were you, i would do the PDI again (if you didn't the first time)

You can find a PDI using the link in my sig file and once that page opens, scroll to the bottom and you'll see the link to download the PDF.	Door alignment is called out as something to look for.


----------



## duggy

We've had a 2011 250RS since last June, and it has never been in for warranty work. I did have to adjust the doors and front closer, plus a few other minor fixes, but nothing major like appliances not working, etc. Maybe we've been lucky, but I'm very satisfied with the overall quality of the Outback. I can't believe they can pack these trailers with so many features, and send them down the road for the price they do. I'm guessing they don't spend any more time than they have to, putting them together.


----------



## scott1k

We noted several minor issues with our 2011 250RS when we made the deal. Most notable was the stove door had a dent,one of the dinnete cushions was coming apart, and the locking mechanism on the TV mount was broke. The dealer ordered the replacement parts and had them installed by the time we picked it up. We brought the unit home and of course that shook out all the saw dust and other manufacturing debris. Plugged in a vacuum and cleaned everything up. A couple of days later we left on a weekend trip and when we got to the campground half of the electrical outlets didn't work, including the one the vacuum was plugged into. Checked the circuit breaker, GFI, etc. Nothing. Brought it back to the dealer and they said the connection for the circuit wiring "fell off" the back of the breaker panel. Kind of scary since I handle fire investigations for my employer. Loose connections mean arcing which can lead to a fire. And finally, when we brought it back to the dealer the front door handle broke off in the service managers hand. We went on one more trip last fall and everything worked great. It's in storage now but I really don't expect any issues this spring.


----------



## CamperAndy

scott1k said:


> Plugged in a vacuum and cleaned everything up. A couple of days later we left on a weekend trip and when we got to the campground half of the electrical outlets didn't work, including the one the vacuum was plugged into. Checked the circuit breaker, GFI, etc. Nothing. Brought it back to the dealer and they said the connection for the circuit wiring "fell off" the back of the breaker panel. Kind of scary since I handle fire investigations for my employer. Loose connections mean arcing which can lead to a fire.


Not really a maintenance item but loose wires is a common issue for all trailers due to movement of everything while they are pulled down the road. I would recommend that when you de winterize that you recheck all the connections on the neutral/ground buss and all the circuit breakers.


----------



## Steve Mc

We bought a 2011 250 RS as well. I thought I did a extensive walkthrough as well like everyone suggested. This was my first travel trailer. I was a previous pop up owner. We also have had several small problems. Caulking aroud back slide and shower was already coming off. I took it in for a few other small items at the same time. We as well love the floorpan. It is great for a family of 4 and it tows great with my 1/2 ton Avalanche.

We went camping and also had a wiring issue. The main switch that includes the switch for the ceiling lighs shorted out. I took off the cover and it was brown. I was a little concerned about a fire but it is now fixed. Has anyone figured a way to keep the bottom panel of the rear slide bed from coming down? It seems to be a design flaw. I thought about a couple of screws or some liquid nails but just looking for ideas.

So, my question is how hard it is to winterize this unit. I notice the by-pass is under the sofa. Any ideas or someplace to get step by step instructions.

Thanks...Steve


----------



## CamperAndy

Steve Mc said:


> Has anyone figured a way to keep the bottom panel of the rear slide bed from coming down? It seems to be a design flaw. I thought about a couple of screws or some liquid nails but just looking for ideas.


The time between them putting the glue on and pressing the panel into place dictates whether it will drop down or not.

Drill a couple of holes where it drops down. Then inject some liquid nails. Then use a 2x4 cut to the length to allow it to press up into the bottom of the with a top (piece of plywood) to press the bubble back into place. let it set over night and the dropped slide bottom will be gone.


----------



## BrandonMH

Steve Mc said:


> We bought a 2011 250 RS as well. I thought I did a extensive walkthrough as well like everyone suggested. This was my first travel trailer. I was a previous pop up owner. We also have had several small problems. Caulking aroud back slide and shower was already coming off. I took it in for a few other small items at the same time. We as well love the floorpan. It is great for a family of 4 and it tows great with my 1/2 ton Avalanche.
> 
> We went camping and also had a wiring issue. The main switch that includes the switch for the ceiling lighs shorted out. I took off the cover and it was brown. I was a little concerned about a fire but it is now fixed. Has anyone figured a way to keep the bottom panel of the rear slide bed from coming down? It seems to be a design flaw. I thought about a couple of screws or some liquid nails but just looking for ideas.
> 
> So, my question is how hard it is to winterize this unit. I notice the by-pass is under the sofa. Any ideas or someplace to get step by step instructions.
> 
> Thanks...Steve


The tech at the dealership told me a little trick. First use the bypass, that saves about six to 10 gallons of antifreeze there, then get a lenght of clear tubing, same size as the pipes to the sink, and get a connector the size of the inlet to your water pump. Put the hose into the anitfreeze bottle, connect the connector to the inlet of the pump, turn it on and open the fixtures til the pink antifreeze comes out. It was winterized for me when I picked it up, and doesn't seem to be any antifreeze in the tanks. I think the manual calls for it, but not sure if you really do need it there.


----------



## Oregon_Camper

BrandonMH said:


> We bought a 2011 250 RS as well. I thought I did a extensive walkthrough as well like everyone suggested. This was my first travel trailer. I was a previous pop up owner. We also have had several small problems. Caulking aroud back slide and shower was already coming off. I took it in for a few other small items at the same time. We as well love the floorpan. It is great for a family of 4 and it tows great with my 1/2 ton Avalanche.
> 
> We went camping and also had a wiring issue. The main switch that includes the switch for the ceiling lighs shorted out. I took off the cover and it was brown. I was a little concerned about a fire but it is now fixed. Has anyone figured a way to keep the bottom panel of the rear slide bed from coming down? It seems to be a design flaw. I thought about a couple of screws or some liquid nails but just looking for ideas.
> 
> So, my question is how hard it is to winterize this unit. I notice the by-pass is under the sofa. Any ideas or someplace to get step by step instructions.
> 
> Thanks...Steve


The tech at the dealership told me a little trick. First use the bypass, that saves about six to 10 gallons of antifreeze there, then get a lenght of clear tubing, same size as the pipes to the sink, and get a connector the size of the inlet to your water pump. Put the hose into the anitfreeze bottle, connect the connector to the inlet of the pump, turn it on and open the fixtures til the pink antifreeze comes out. It was winterized for me when I picked it up, and doesn't seem to be any antifreeze in the tanks. I think the manual calls for it, but not sure if you really do need it there.
[/quote]

Never pour your RV anti freeze into the tanks to winterize...just get a $25 bypass kit. Install once, and you'll be set going forward. Or if you're in a mild climate zone, just blow out the lines with an air compressor. I've been using the compressor method for years, however Oregon Winters are not that cold.


----------



## Danodog

CamperAndy said:


> Has anyone figured a way to keep the bottom panel of the rear slide bed from coming down? It seems to be a design flaw. I thought about a couple of screws or some liquid nails but just looking for ideas.


The time between them putting the glue on and pressing the panel into place dictates whether it will drop down or not.

Drill a couple of holes where it drops down. Then inject some liquid nails. Then use a 2x4 cut to the length to allow it to press up into the bottom of the with a top (piece of plywood) to press the bubble back into place. let it set over night and the dropped slide bottom will be gone.
[/quote]

I took our 2013 250 RS for the same issue and it was authorized by Keystone for repair.


----------

