# Draining The Water Heater On A 298Rl



## MikeBiondo (Mar 15, 2012)

Hello folks!

I read several of the winterizing threads (thanks to all), and watched the Keystone video. The bypass and draining procedure seems straight-forward enough, but nowhere have I seen mention of replacing the anode rod after draining. After turning the bypass valve, does not the drain/rod need to be replaced and the pressure relief valve closed before pumping anti-freeze?

As I understand the operation of the bypass valve - when you turn the bypass valve, the cold water supply to the water heater is prevented from entering the cold water inlet of the WH and is diverted up to the tee of the hot water outlet of the WH and the hot water supply piping...CORRECT???

Assuming that is correct, what prevents the anti-freeze from being pumped in both directions of the tee back into the WH? It seems that the WH would have to be sealed(anode rod reinstalled and the pressure relief valve closed) so that the air pressure would prevent the anti-freeze from entering the WH.

Am I thinking correctly, or am I totally missing (as usual) an obvious point?









Thanks, and much appreciation...

Mike-


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

There is a check valve in the outlet fitting of the water heater. This prevents anything from back filling the water heater.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

MikeBiondo said:


> Hello folks!
> 
> I read several of the winterizing threads (thanks to all), and watched the Keystone video. The bypass and draining procedure seems straight-forward enough, but nowhere have I seen mention of replacing the anode rod after draining. After turning the bypass valve, does not the drain/rod need to be replaced and the pressure relief valve closed before pumping anti-freeze?
> 
> ...


no need to replace the anode rod. The way the bypass valve works is the quarter turn valve diverts water from the inlet of the water heater to the line that crosses to the outlet. And the outlet has a one way check valve going into the water heater tank. (which isn't mentioned in any info on the bypass valve, but it IS there) The check valve will let water flow out of the hot side of the water heater, but will not allow water to flow into the water heater.

If that check valve didn't exist on the hot water outlet, yes, water would go into the water tank from the hot water outlet, even with the anode rod in.

Now, IMHO the best thing to do is to turn off the pressure relief valve and reinstall the anode rod anyway. That way in the spring you won't be running around looking for the anode rod when water comes pouring out of the water heater when you go to fill up hopefully at home and not at a campground!! and then have water coming out the relief valve after you dried yourself off from the missing anode rod. But then, maybe you have a better memory than ME!!


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

This may be a good place to bring this subject to the table. During my winterization I found the anode rod deteriorated to a point where I decided to buy another. My Suburban sw6del water heater manual wasn't immediately available so I went to the RV supply place and requested a replacement. The sales person suggested I get an aluminum anode rod because; " They last a long time." I always listen the voice of authority so I purchased the rod and installed it.

I eventually got out the manual for my heater and it's part replacement called for a magnesium anode rod. So... what's the deal. More Googling and searching got me to a couple of detailed explanations. One of the sites is here: Everything About Anodes You'll Ever need The aluminum will last a long time because the heater is being acted on the same way the rod is. In other words, the heater is deteriorating overall and the sacrificial anode is not being sacrificed. The reactive component difference between magnesium vs aluminum is quite different than aluminum vs aluminum. ( HINT: There is not difference between aluminum and aluminum. ) After all my research it seems that sacrificial anodes are in virtually all water heaters to include my home tank water heater. If your RV is a substantial boat then it's my guess you are well aware of the importance of anodes. I any case, I will be changing the rod "back" to magnesium when I charge the TT for travel come January.









Before y'all come charging back with comments like " Ya don't need them dang things." or " There is a plastic plug in mine. " I am not responsible for your trailer. I just service mine and try to follow the manufacturer's direction. Happy camping and safe travels.









Here is what Suburban states in their Q&A: 
*Are all water heaters equipped with an Anode Rod? What is its function? When should it be changed?*

Only Suburban water heaters feature an anode rod. The anode equalizes aggressive water action, providing cathodic protection for the tank. It is a very important factor in tank life and should only be removed for inspection, draining or replacement. It is removeable using a 1-1/16" thin wall socket.

All Suburban water heaters are protected by a magnesium or aluminum anode to prolong the life of the tank. Under normal use, the anode rod will deteriorate. Because of this, we recommend it be replaced annually or when consumption or weight loss of the rod is greater than 75%. Note: Water with high levels of iron and/or sulfate will increase the rate of deterioration. To extend anode life, drain water from tank whenever the RV is not being used. Avoid any extended time of non-use with water in the tank.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Leedek - You said not to say it is not needed but truth is on the water heaters with aluminum tanks there is not much cathodic protection provided by a magnesium rod and none by an aluminum rod. You would have to go higher up the noble metal scale on the tank metal for the rods to make a difference. So that is why they are not typically installed on aluminum tanks and you often see them on steel tanks.

Then you need to consider water chemistry to say if they would really prolong the life of the tank. If the conductivity of the water is low then the rods do very little. Where I live the rod for the trailer water heater will last about 8 years.

Overall they are cheap enough to use even if it is for the placebo effect.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

CamperAndy said:


> Leedek - You said not to say it is not needed but truth is on the water heaters with aluminum tanks there is not much cathodic protection provided by a magnesium rod and none by an aluminum rod. You would have to go higher up the noble metal scale on the tank metal for the rods to make a difference. So that is why they are not typically installed on aluminum tanks and you often see them on steel tanks.
> 
> Then you need to consider water chemistry to say if they would really prolong the life of the tank. If the conductivity of the water is low then the rods do very little. Where I live the rod for the trailer water heater will last about 8 years.
> 
> Overall they are cheap enough to use even if it is for the placebo effect.


my understanding is that Atwood tanks are aluminum, while Suburban tanks, like most home water heater tanks, are porcelenized steel. so with a suburban tank the magnesium rod is used for protection against any voids in the porcelin as well as the exposed steel in the inlet and outlet couplings. Atwood tanks definitely need the magnesium anode rod, aluminum will do no good. Aluminum will work with steel, although not as well as magnesium.

In areas with naturally soft water, tanks will last a long time as will the anode rods, Places with hard water and lots of other minerals iron etc. seem to go through tanks and anode rods quickly.


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## MikeBiondo (Mar 15, 2012)

First off, thanks for responses regarding this thread - the check valve in the output of the water heater was definitely the piece I was missing. Thanks again!

Just another data point about the anode discussion...we picked up our 2012 298RE in March of this year. When I pulled the anode rod to drain the water heater, I was surprised to see that the anode rod was very pitted with a fair amount of the anode residue (white powdery flakes) rinsed out with the water. We have been on four trips since March. I did not drain the WH between trips. In my case, the anode seems to be doing the job...

Mike-


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