# Folding Entry Handle



## Roncadenhead (May 17, 2009)

Has anyone found the secret to installing a folding handle on each door of an Outback 28RLS?
I went ahead and drilled as close to the frame of the door as the handle would slide and drilled throught he skin into air. There was only contact with one screw out of the 4 required to mount the handle. How can you determine where there may be sufficient material up and down the door (opposite the hinges) to mount the handle? I have searched Outbackers forum and cannot find anything.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

When I bought my 21RS, I had the dealer install the folding door handle. They missed the stud on two of the four screws but didn't bother to tell me about it. My solution was to make a block inside the wall to screw into. It may not be the best solution but it worked for me.

First I used a bent nail to clear out a little bit of styrofoam around each hole. Then I took a wooden dowel that would just fit through the hole and cut it into lengths of about an inch. I put a layer of blue painters tape on the exterior skin of the trailer around the holes to keep from getting epoxy on the finish. I shoved three dowels into each hole. When inserting the dowel, I used a toothpick to scoop up epoxy and put it into the hole. Insert a dowel, scoop in some epoxy. Insert another dowel, scoop in some more epoxy. Then insert the last dowel. I made a plug similar to the image below. Once the epoxy hardened, I installed the screws using the hollow spot between the dowels as the pilot hole.

This worked because the upper two holes where the ones that hit the stud. When someone grabs the handle and pulls down on it, the stud is taking the load. If I had the plugs on the top holes, when grabbed they would be trying to pull the plugs through the fiberglass.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

I was able to screw into an aluminum stud on the top bracket, but there was no stud in line, further down for the bottom bracket. I solved the problem by using a 3" long by 1" wide piece of flat steel stock on the inside wall (just above the floor) as an anchor (kinda like a rectangular washer). I put a long bolt through everything and sandwiched it all together. Then, I painted the inside pieces white and you can hardly notice them.

It is very solid and has held for three years, so far.

Mike


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

The first thing that comes to mind is robust toggle bolts. But I am not sure how well the skin will support the weight. If there was a way to slip some sheet metal in by the door frame, redrill the holes to accept a toggle bolt, perhaps there would be enough surface area contact with the sheet metal to support a reasonable amount of weight. Thinking out loud here.....


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## CdnOutback (Apr 16, 2010)

egregg57 said:


> Thinking out loud here.....


You know... I did here a really strange noise outside at about the time you posted this...









Oh no.. that little black guy on my left shoulder said that!


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

They put solid backing in the wall at the factory for the handle. Any kind of wall anchor or toggle bolt, will almost for sure rip a big hole in the outer skin of the trailer. Ideally, you will figure out a way to get something solid in the wall, to screw to. Next best option would be as already mentioned, through bolts with backing on the inside of the wall.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

duggy said:


> They put solid backing in the wall at the factory for the handle. Any kind of wall anchor or toggle bolt, will almost for sure rip a big hole in the outer skin of the trailer. Ideally, you will figure out a way to get something solid in the wall, to screw to. Next best option would be as already mentioned, through bolts with backing on the inside of the wall.


I second this.


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## john7349 (Jan 13, 2008)

I am a big (large) man. I think I will go with bolts through the wall.


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