# Battery Connection And Blown Fuses.



## Jack Hollister

Good morning everyone&#8230;.I have a quick question on battery installation. I just put the battery back in the Outback after removing and storing it for the winter. Is there a certain way, (correct way) to hook the battery back up? I don't mean positive to positive and negative to negative&#8230;I mean the the order of them. Should you connect the positive first, then the negative, or vise versa? The reason I'm asking is because I blew both 40 amp fuses and I hope I didn't fry anything else in the converter. Next to the fuses there is a label stating the reason for the fuses, reverse battery hookup????? The lights, water pump and hood light work inside the camper but the frig, AC and radio do not. It is plugged into electric and all breakers are on. I turned all breakers off, removed the 2 40amp fuses and the lights still working, I guess from the battery. I thought that by blowing the fuses, nothing would work.

I'm just afraid I may have more problems when I replace the fuses. Planned on going out next weekend but maybe not if I have to take it in for repairs.

Thanks for all you help. This forum is great.


----------



## willingtonpaul

From what I have Read, you unhook the negative first, then the positive when disconnecting. Reconnecting is the reverse, hook the positive up first, then the negative. This is to prevent possibly shorting the battery out. Back when I was a newbie, I hooked the battery up in reverse one time, and blew both reverse polarity protection fuses. But I replaced them both and reconnected the battery, and all was OK. If you are having trouble now after doing this, there must be more trouble in the fuse / circuit panel or with the converter. That is beyond my limited electrical ability.


----------



## Gilligan

Are you 100% certain you connected the WHITE wire to the NEGATIVE post and the BLACK wire to POSITIVE post on the battery? Remember, it is classified as a house, not a vehicle. Black is "HOT" and White is "NEUTRAL". The 40 amp fuses normally only blow when the battery is hooked-up reversed. Usually, this doesn't cause any damage other than the blown fuses. It also seems to take out the fuse to the radio/CD player.
Also, the lights in the trailer can still work without the battery connected. They will run off of the 12V output from the converter, assuming of course, you are still connected to shore power. Remember the 12V circuits are fused with automotive fuses, the 120V stuff has breakers.
And the rule-of-thumb about the order of dis-connecting and re-connecting typically only applies to cars and trucks. The reason you remove the negative first is so when you remove the positive you don't have to worry about your wrench hitting the frame or other grounded metal and causing arcs and sparks and melted tools. Re-connecting the positive first and then the negative is for the same reason. Where the batteries are located on a trailer, there is usually no grounded metal in close proximity, so it's not that important which one goes first, but it sure wouldn't hurt to follow that rule-of-thumb just so you always stay in the habit.
Hope this helps.

Gilligan


----------



## Professor

Gilligan said:


> Are you 100% certain you connected the WHITE wire to the NEGATIVE post and the BLACK wire to POSITIVE post on the battery? Remember, it is classified as a house, not a vehicle. Black is "HOT" and White is "NEUTRAL". The 40 amp fuses normally only blow when the battery is hooked-up reversed. Usually, this doesn't cause any damage other than the blown fuses. It also seems to take out the fuse to the radio/CD player.
> Also, the lights in the trailer can still work without the battery connected. They will run off of the 12V output from the converter, assuming of course, you are still connected to shore power. Remember the 12V circuits are fused with automotive fuses, the 120V stuff has breakers.
> And the rule-of-thumb about the order of dis-connecting and re-connecting typically only applies to cars and trucks. The reason you remove the negative first is so when you remove the positive you don't have to worry about your wrench hitting the frame or other grounded metal and causing arcs and sparks and melted tools. Re-connected the positive first and then the negative is for the same reason. Where the batteries are located on a trailer, there is usually no grounded metal in close proximity, so it's not that important which one goes first, but it sure wouldn't hurt to follow that rule-of-thumb just so you always stay in the habit.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Gilligan


Sound advice little buddy.

As for other damage. Look at the in line fuse for the radio, that is typically the only other circuit to be damaged during this type of event.


----------



## Gilligan

Professor said:


> As for other damage. Look at the in line fuse for the radio, that is typically the only other circuit to be damaged during this type of event.


But Professor, I mentioned the radio fuse. You taught me well, those three years on the island.









Gilligan


----------



## Professor

Gilligan said:


> As for other damage. Look at the in line fuse for the radio, that is typically the only other circuit to be damaged during this type of event.


But Professor, I mentioned the radio fuse. You taught me well, those three years on the island.









Gilligan








[/quote]

You are correct and I see my error as my post was incomplete. I meant to expand on the issue and point out that the fuse is normally hidden behind the radio. Thanks for letting me know that as it stood my post just sounded like one of the Parrots down by the lagoon.


----------



## H2oSprayer

Gilligan said:


> Are you 100% certain you connected the WHITE wire to the NEGATIVE post and the BLACK wire to POSITIVE post on the battery? Remember, it is classified as a house, not a vehicle. Black is "HOT" and White is "NEUTRAL". The 40 amp fuses normally only blow when the battery is hooked-up reversed. Usually, this doesn't cause any damage other than the blown fuses. It also seems to take out the fuse to the radio/CD player.
> Also, the lights in the trailer can still work without the battery connected. They will run off of the 12V output from the converter, assuming of course, you are still connected to shore power. Remember the 12V circuits are fused with automotive fuses, the 120V stuff has breakers.
> And the rule-of-thumb about the order of dis-connecting and re-connecting typically only applies to cars and trucks. The reason you remove the negative first is so when you remove the positive you don't have to worry about your wrench hitting the frame or other grounded metal and causing arcs and sparks and melted tools. Re-connected the positive first and then the negative is for the same reason. Where the batteries are located on a trailer, there is usually no grounded metal in close proximity, so it's not that important which one goes first, but it sure wouldn't hurt to follow that rule-of-thumb just so you always stay in the habit.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Gilligan


Gee....If you were this thorough in the factory....you know, I'm just sayin'


----------



## Gilligan

H2oSprayer said:


> Gee....If you were this thorough in the factory....you know, I'm just sayin'


You mean the label that says "GRAY" doesn't go on the handle that drains the tank under the toilet?









Gilligan


----------



## Jack Hollister

Thanks guys for responding....I will double check my battery connections. I thought the spades on the wires were different sizes which didnt allow for a mixup. I could be wrong????

Is gilligan still getting those stickers backwards? Mine is an 09 and yes, the gray drains the black tank!!!



Gilligan said:


> Gee....If you were this thorough in the factory....you know, I'm just sayin'


You mean the label that says "GRAY" doesn't go on the handle that drains the tank under the toilet?









Gilligan








[/quote]


----------



## H2oSprayer

Jack Hollister said:


> Mine is an 09 and yes, the gray drains the black tank!!!


If you haven't done it yet, a simple fit to that situation is simply switching the handles. While holding the metal rod to prevent it from spinning, twist off the black plastic pull handle and switch the two.


----------



## Jack Hollister

Follow up report&#8230;..I stopped by the RV dealer yesterday after work. Picked up 4 new 40amp fuses. 2 to replace the blown ones and 2 for spares. After reading the comments yesterday about reversing the positive and negative battery cables, which I was sure I didn't do, I opened up the battery box. What did I see???.......a reverse connection! Yes, I pulled a Gilligan. So after replacing the fuses, swapping the battery cables, flipping back the breakers&#8230;..everything now works! YEA!!...except the radio. It has power, just not working properly. It comes on with the time..as if it needs to be reset. But when you try to reset it, it just goes to a solid blue screen. I unsnapped the faceplate, hit the reset button and it does the same thing. Maybe I did damage something inside the radio. I pulled the fuse from the converter panel and put it back in&#8230;.still the same. I didn't check the inline fuse on the radio. I figured since it had power that it was fine. The radio was the least of my worries. I can deal with that, just glad everything else seems to be ok.

Thanks again for all your help. Happy camping!!!!


----------



## CamperAndy

The radio may have a battery in it to hold time and station memory. Did find and check the in line fuse?


----------



## willingtonpaul

Jack Hollister said:


> Follow up report&#8230;..I stopped by the RV dealer yesterday after work. Picked up 4 new 40amp fuses. 2 to replace the blown ones and 2 for spares. After reading the comments yesterday about reversing the positive and negative battery cables, which I was sure I didn't do, I opened up the battery box. What did I see???.......a reverse connection! Yes, I pulled a Gilligan. So after replacing the fuses, swapping the battery cables, flipping back the breakers&#8230;..everything now works! YEA!!...except the radio. It has power, just not working properly. It comes on with the time..as if it needs to be reset. But when you try to reset it, it just goes to a solid blue screen. I unsnapped the faceplate, hit the reset button and it does the same thing. Maybe I did damage something inside the radio. I pulled the fuse from the converter panel and put it back in&#8230;.still the same. I didn't check the inline fuse on the radio. I figured since it had power that it was fine. The radio was the least of my worries. I can deal with that, just glad everything else seems to be ok.
> 
> Thanks again for all your help. Happy camping!!!!


Like I said earlier, even the best of us do it.....


----------



## Oregon_Camper

willingtonpaul said:


> Like I said earlier, even the best of us do it.....


..LOL...

This is the time of year this question keeps coming up. Glad you have about all of it figured out.


----------



## Jack Hollister

Well Im at 100% again, all is working Ok. The radio fuse did need to be changed. It is located on the back of the radio. Not easy to get to but did'nt take to long. Thanks again for everyones help. You guys are great!!!!


----------



## CamperAndy

That's why we are here and hope to keep it that way. Glad you got it all squared away.


----------



## Tacomas Dad

If only I would have read this thread prior to last Sunday. I also ended up replacing the 15 Amp fuse for the radio also.


----------



## thevanillakilla

Ok, I just stumbled upon this thread and I am hoping it is still being monitored. I have made a "Gilligan" also. I have since changed the cables on the battery around and everything seemed to be ok. Until I woke up this morning and my fridge's check light is on. Is this normal with the polarity fuses being blown? Or is something else going on? I have new 40a fuses to go into the camper and will replace them when I get back out there, I was just wondering if those fuses being blown have any effect on the fridge. I am currently hooked into shore power also. When I discovered the issue last night and "rectified" the situation the fridge was working properly, but not this morning. PULLING MY HAIR OUT!!!


----------



## CamperAndy

thevanillakilla said:


> Ok, I just stumbled upon this thread and I am hoping it is still being monitored. I have made a "Gilligan" also. I have since changed the cables on the battery around and everything seemed to be ok. Until I woke up this morning and my fridge's check light is on. Is this normal with the polarity fuses being blown? Or is something else going on? I have new 40a fuses to go into the camper and will replace them when I get back out there, I was just wondering if those fuses being blown have any effect on the fridge. I am currently hooked into shore power also. When I discovered the issue last night and "rectified" the situation the fridge was working properly, but not this morning. PULLING MY HAIR OUT!!!


Fridge check light indicates the fridge wants to be running on Propane but failed to light. So it is indicating that either the fridge is in Gas only mode and sees no flame or in Auto mode and it sees no AC or flame indication.

What mode are you trying to run the fridge?


----------



## johnrmiller2

Hi Everyone, I too just experienced the same thing that Mr. Hollister went through. I went to NAPA and bought the 40 amp fuse. I only had one to begin with??? You all stated that you had two. I have two slots, but only one carried the 40 amp fuse. Should there be two? Also, when I put the 40 amp fuse in, the fan on the inverter ran for about 5 seconds and stopped. Is this normal? I will check the inline fuse on the radio as my radio or TV will not fire up now. Please help.


----------



## UpFrontFanatic

Hello Outbackers ....newb Outback owners (hello from IL) who just took possession of a '13 316RL & had almost the identical issue the orignal poster ran into except in our case, the battery had to be replaced because it was swiped by local miscreants from the lot the orignal owner had it sitting while for sale. We assume in either the process of the hijinx or when the battery was replaced, a 40a was blown and boy do I wish I scanned more in the forum and found this thread because it took us forever to figure out why we were running at 1/2-no power(head scratching, lots of it and then a snape hunt to find the dadgum fuse) ....that said(and hoepfully remedied..fingers crossed for the weekend) we seem to be running just fine except for the ceiling speakers-A,B,C zone deal-I've been thinking it's likely another fuse somewhere. We can tell the radio is working(Genesis model system, we can see the "sound waves" on the radio screen so assume it's receiving) but just can't get any sound.....if anybody's out there and has a suggestion of where to start the process of figuring out if it's a fuse or a reset or where else to look, we'd appreciate. Thanks to all of you fine folks who take the time to answer these forum questions- your knowledge is so extremely helpful & im happy to have found this tool


----------

