# Packing The Bearings For A 25rss



## 4beeps (Jan 25, 2007)

I am not mechanically inclined - but someone told me that it is real easy on the 2007 25RSS.

ANY help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
4Beeps


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

It is funny that you posted this today because this is what I am doing today. I think the hardest part is to jack up and support the frame of the TT. I use two bottle jacks just behind the brackets which holds the spring. I take them up evenly untill the tires clear and support the frame with jack stands and the stabilizers. On my 04 I have a zerk fitting on my bearing assembly and once the tire is off I simply flush fresh grease through the unit. While you have it up remove the brake drum and clean and inspect the brakes. When you put the drum back on adjust the shoes so they just touch and make a slight dragging sound as you spin them. Try to make the drag and noise the same. A good inexpense product for degreasing and cleaning the brakes can be bought at Walmart in the Automotive section and is call Super Clean. It is in a purple bottle and can be sprayed on with a hand bottle sprayer. It works great you can see the oils and other junk melt away and you rinse it clean with water. Good luck and have fun. I am headed back outside to start this project and also to upgrade my springs to 4 leaf 1750 pound rated springs and brass bushings and greaseable bolts for the hangers. Kirk


----------



## russk42 (Sep 10, 2007)

I just finished a true packing job (the first) on my 2004 outback (a true packing involves pulling all bearings and seals, cleaning and greasing) but for routine (every 6 months) maintenance, you can use the EZ lube fittings to renew and/or replace the grease.

Personally, i haven't pulled the drums previously. Pulling the drum entails removing the cotter pin, castle nut, washer and removing the outer bearing, which may be more than you want to get into--not very difficult, but definitely messy. I don't think you need it on a 2007 trailer, although if you've driven many miles, or had lots of braking, you might want to.

aplvlykat's jacking method is good---though I personally don't use the stabilizers when jacking, i'm reluctant to put the stress on them. jack stands under the frame, near the wheels is how I do it.

pull out the rubber caps and attach a grease gun, get your kids to turn the wheel while you pump.

As far as tips:
I'd recommend driving it a bit, to warm up the old grease-so it flows better
if its cold outside, keep the new grease in the house to warm it up as well. 
use a popsicle stick, or similar, to scoop out the old grease around the axle. 
wear rubber gloves


----------



## 4beeps (Jan 25, 2007)

Thanks guys I will be doing this over the weekend. I will be screaming (ARGH) on line if I get lost.
I really appreciate all the help.

4Beeps


----------



## dgilmore12 (Mar 31, 2008)

I also plan to do this this weekend. I found this video on how to, it looks helpful.

http://www.etrailer.com/tv_repack_trailer_hub_bearings.aspx


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Don't worry, it's really easy. Jack it up and spin the wheel while pumping in the new grease. Pump it in until you see grease start to squeeze out around the edges. Also, don't be surprised if you have to pump your hand grease gun 30-50 times before you start to see grease come out. This is normal.

We'll have operators standing by this weekend....Good Luck


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi again guy's, RussK42 is right when it comes to repacking the bearings. You have to remove the castle nut and cotter pin in order to get the drum off. Well mine are good to go for another years or so. Here's what I did. Replaced all four springs and I now have a 7000 pound rated axles. Replaced all 14 nylon bushings with brass bushings. Replaced all 14 bolts with greasealbe bolts and greased all bushings and bolts. Cleaned and inspected all four brakes. Cleaned and repacked all four wheel bearings. The only bad thing about doing this is it raised my Outback about 1 1/2 inches higher. I think this is due to sagging springs and the new ones being rated higher. Now I have to reset my hitch, well maybe tomorrow. Kirk


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Hey kirk, did you replace the grease seals on the drums?? If so, where did you get them and what are the part numbers?? Our axle hubs are likely identical, and I'm due for a full repack too.

Thanks!

Jim


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Jim, my seals were good to go, no leaks. Almost any trailer supply place should carry that seal. Down in Ontario there is a company called Arrow Trailer supply they are the factory rep for Al-Ko axles. They may have the seals if you need them. Kirk


----------



## 7206 (Apr 16, 2008)

Need to do this myself.


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Thanks Kirk! Glad to hear they were still good. I may just do the same. Just gotta take them out carefully without messing up the old one or bearing.

Let me guess....wooden handle of a hammer from the inside....WHACK!









Jim


----------



## russk42 (Sep 10, 2007)

Re the grease seals, nobody in my town had them. Tractor Supply had a kit (~$20), with bearings included, but i didn't want the bearings. My local tractor dealer had the same size seal, but without the spring, so i took a pass on those. I got mine from etrailer.com "10-19" fits the 3500 E-Z lube axle on my 28rss

http://www.etrailer.com/p-RG06-050.htm
standard shipping was slow, but that may be because I got the Reese dual cam at the same time.

you'll definitely want new cotter pins, because they don't go in straight on the EZ lube axle; and they'll come out bent or worse.

to remove the seal, i bolted the hub back onto the tire, using two of the nuts; lay it on the ground, and pry out with a seal puller. With the drum bolted on the tire, i had plenty of resistance to my prying. (my trailer is far from a workbench)


----------



## kmcfetters (May 7, 2005)

Am I wrong-but doesn't the zerk fitting keep you from having to repack the bearings? It is designed to push the old grease and grime out each time you grease. Just a thought.


----------



## russk42 (Sep 10, 2007)

kmcfetters said:


> Am I wrong-but doesn't the zerk fitting keep you from having to repack the bearings? It is designed to push the old grease and grime out each time you grease. Just a thought.


I didn't repack the bearings in mine for nearly 4 years, I just used the EZ lube...
On my last trip last year, i met a boater pulled over on the side of the road, with a bad bearing on his boat trailer [his weekend was RUINED] Of course, boat trailers are more prone to bearing problems.

This spring I figured it was time to pull my bearings out and take a look. I didn't see much wear on the bearings, though; despite having more than 15k miles.
Do you need to repack? I don't know...bearings are better than in the old days, greases are better. Maybe it's a waste of time, but once you're jacked up, and have the drums off to check the brakes, you're halfway to repacking
anyway.


----------



## kmcfetters (May 7, 2005)

Yeah---I was going to do them over the winter and now its setup at the campground for the year or maybe longer. I guess I should do them when she returns. The best I can figure it we have about about 7000 miles on it. So I wasn't in any big hurry to kill the whole day.


----------



## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

russk42 said:


> I didn't repack the bearings in mine for nearly 4 years, I just used the EZ lube...
> Do you need to repack? I don't know...bearings are better than in the old days, greases are better. Maybe it's a waste of time, but once you're jacked up, and have the drums off to check the brakes, you're halfway to repacking
> anyway.


My thoughts and actions as well. My 2004 has been in service for 4.5 years and has been EZ Lube'd only. I've got new wheels & tires to install so I figure it's a good time to get in there and exercise a little preventive maintenance.

I'm old school and am not convinced that the EZ Lube can push out all of the dirt & debris, which over many years may be accumulating. Enough to keep the bearing from being damaged for quite awhile...yes. But eventually you should get in there and completely clean it like new.

Like I said, I'm old school and could be totally wrong about this. But it's cheap insurance compared to spinning a bearing 1000 miles from home


----------



## my3sons (Jan 29, 2004)

I have a 2003 25 RS-S. I repack my bearings every year. However, I do it the easy way. I hook up my Outback and tow it to a dealer to let them repack the bearings. An even easier way is to let a mobile guy come out to the storage lot and do it for $150. Good deal!


----------

