# Leaking Passthrough Doors



## G-Unit (Sep 4, 2011)

Just bought 2012 292BH. The passthrough doors have been locked with key and turn key. On two occations when it has rained, they have a puddle inside on the ledge and some has dripped inside the passthrough. Is there anyway to tighted up the door to make it seal tighter or is this going to be a warrany issue. It happens on both doors on the passenger side but not on the drivers side door. They feel pretty tight. Just wanted to see if anyone had similar issues and any thoughts.

Thanks


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## luckylynn (Jan 9, 2007)

G-Unit said:


> Just bought 2012 292BH. The passthrough doors have been locked with key and turn key. On two occations when it has rained, they have a puddle inside on the ledge and some has dripped inside the passthrough. Is there anyway to tighted up the door to make it seal tighter or is this going to be a warrany issue. It happens on both doors on the passenger side but not on the drivers side door. They feel pretty tight. Just wanted to see if anyone had similar issues and any thoughts.
> 
> Thanks


Congrats on the new TT,know you will love it.

Does the door have a gasket around the inside? If so maybe it is bad or needs one. Maybe it has a little drain hole( kind of like the window frames have)that is stopped up? these are both things that have caused the same type of leaks in other campers we have had ,so I was just throwing some ideas out there for you. Good Luck

Happy Camping....Luckylynn


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## therink (May 13, 2010)

I have the same problem on one of my basement compartment doors. I closely examined how the rubber perimeter weatherstrip lines up with the door edges. I noticed that it does not line up evenly all the way around, thus not sealing properly. The way I have figured to fix this is to remove and replace the weatherstrip and align it properly when installing it. I found a place online where I can buy a roll of the stuff. While you appear to be under warranty, I would take it in and let them take care of it before water damage occurs.
Steve


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Even if the gasket looks like it is making good contact most leaks are caused by water migration through the hinge and then down the inside of the door.

Caulk the top of the hinge where it is riveted to the frame to prevent water from getting to the top of the door. Then open the door all the way open, look up at the door and caulk the rivet holes that go into the top of the door. Remove the thumb locks and place a small amount of caulking around the hole, then put the latches back in, wipe excess caulk that squeezes out.

Caulking those three locations will solve your issue. Also add gutter extentions or try to make sure the trailer is level to prevent water from running down the side wall.


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## G-Unit (Sep 4, 2011)

CamperAndy said:


> Even if the gasket looks like it is making good contact most leaks are caused by water migration through the hinge and then down the inside of the door.
> 
> Caulk the top of the hinge where it is riveted to the frame to prevent water from getting to the top of the door. Then open the door all the way open, look up at the door and caulk the rivet holes that go into the top of the door. Remove the thumb locks and place a small amount of caulking around the hole, then put the latches back in, wipe excess caulk that squeezes out.
> 
> Caulking those three locations will solve your issue. Also add gutter extentions or try to make sure the trailer is level to prevent water from running down the side wall.


Will attempt to caulk tomorrow and spray with hose after dry, well let you know. Thanks!


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## 2112 (Aug 17, 2011)

Either take it back for warranty or remove the whole hatch assembly by removing the internal screws using a #2 square bit, clean, recaulk using apropriate material, reinstall and clean up the mess. Keystones are known for not using enough caulking during assembly.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

2112 said:


> Either take it back for warranty or remove the whole hatch assembly by removing the internal screws using a #2 square bit, clean, recaulk using apropriate material, reinstall and clean up the mess. Keystones are known for not using enough caulking during assembly.


It is not a frame intallation issue. No need to take the frame apart.


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## 2112 (Aug 17, 2011)

CamperAndy said:


> Either take it back for warranty or remove the whole hatch assembly by removing the internal screws using a #2 square bit, clean, recaulk using apropriate material, reinstall and clean up the mess. Keystones are known for not using enough caulking during assembly.


It is not a frame intallation issue. No need to take the frame apart.
[/quote]
If you are referring to the hatch frame, most are. If you remove the hatch, frame and all, you will find that the course cut openings are usually a little over-sized, leaving very little faying surface between the hatch frame flange and the exterior wall. Furthermore, you will find VERY little caulking between the wall and flange. And the flange seam (the crack where the two ends meet) never gets caulked. If your seam is on top it will leak.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

2112 said:


> Either take it back for warranty or remove the whole hatch assembly by removing the internal screws using a #2 square bit, clean, recaulk using apropriate material, reinstall and clean up the mess. Keystones are known for not using enough caulking during assembly.


It is not a frame intallation issue. No need to take the frame apart.
[/quote]
If you are referring to the hatch frame, most are. If you remove the hatch, frame and all, you will find that the course cut openings are usually a little over-sized, leaving very little faying surface between the hatch frame flange and the exterior wall. Furthermore, you will find VERY little caulking between the wall and flange. And the flange seam (the crack where the two ends meet) never gets caulked. If your seam is on top it will leak.
[/quote]

You will find no caulk on the frame flange and the wall as they use none. What is used is Butyl rubber tape. It remain pliable and tacky for life and is a much better sealant then any caulk for that application. As for the hole they cut, it depends on if Gilligan was working or not but they use a template to make those cuts so I would not worry about that part of the installation.


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## 2112 (Aug 17, 2011)

CamperAndy said:


> You will find no caulk on the frame flange and the wall as they use none. What is used is Butyl rubber tape. It remain pliable and tacky for life and is a much better sealant then any caulk for that application. As for the hole they cut, it depends on if Gilligan was working or not but they use a template to make those cuts so I would not worry about that part of the installation.


If I will find no caulk on the frame flange then what is that I see there? What is on the edge that I can touch and is not sticky? They run that small bead AFTER the hatch is installed. Very little if any is behind it and no butyl. Pop it loose and take a look if you have any doubt.


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