# Water Pressure Tank



## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

I finally got around to adding a pressure tank to the water system. I don't know why I took so long to do it! One of the most effective mods so far. And, it wasn't difficult.

I found a very neat location under the bunks, right beside the hot water tank. A single tee, short piece of plastic pipe, couple of elbows, a valve, and of course the tank. I used a 2 gallon pressure tank.

Now, just a little foam insulation around the pump, and I should be able to get an uninterupted night's sleep!


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Sounds cool! Got any pics?


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

If you want to make it really quiet mount the pump on 1 1/2" tygon tubing, you will be surprised how little noise it makes. Kir


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Or add flexible hose connections to the pump. Hardly can tell it is running now.

I have the Shur-Flo Accumulator tank, which is mounted on the 1" tubing. So far things are looking good, it was challenging to fit it all into the small box that is on the 28BHS, but it works.

Jevi,

Under your bunks, is that where your hot water tank and furnace are? Did you connect the tank to the cold water inlet the hot water tank? I considered doing this but went the other route.


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

Correct, the tank is under the bunks and I placed it in the far back corner beside the hot water tank. I chose a small 2 gallon size to make sure it could fit vertically (to make sure it drains when winterizing??) in the space. I was originally going to replace the elbow where the cold water enters the heater with a tee connection, and then the other port to the pressure tank. But, I did not have the required space, so I just cut the cold water pipe before the heater (actually even before it reaches the winterizing bypass tee). I too considered putting an accumulator tank beside the pump, but was somewhat miffed at the lack of space.

Kirk, That is on my list of things to do. The pump is currently mounted on the wall (aka thin plywood) which I also believe is adding to the vibrations. I plan to add thicker plywood to the wall, and then use your tubing idea for mounting the pump.

I will try and post pics next week. Going camping this weekend, in the rain!


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Jevi,

I moved my pump from the wall to the floor, it is now screwed directly to the floor through the pump rubber base, I have a flexible hose on the city water connection and one between the pump and accumulator tank. I mounted the accumulator tank on the 1" flex hose. I also added some insulation where it goes down through the floor to keep the pipes from touching.

I went underneath and added a bunch of Arma-Flex pipe insulation because the piping sits on top of the frame in spots and crosses the top of the water tank, so pretty much everything is somehow isolated from each other.

Just by the nature of the water pump design, you can faintly here it pumping, but there is absolutely no vibration to the frame or piping. It worked good for me.

KS


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Jevi

Would really like to see pics. I made my pump quite but I really like the idea. Another mod added to the list.









Thor


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Jevi, I am not familular with the 28 model but it sounds like Kevin is and sounds like he has a handel on it as well. I still recommend putting tubing under the pump for vibration isolation if room allows. Kirk


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Kirk,

If you use flexible hoses, you should mount the pump without the tubing under it. If you use both, there is nothing to restrain the movement anywhere. If you don't use the flex hoses then yes I would mount like you recommend and the pump base hose will absorb the vibration. But you can't do both. You need a anchor connection somewhere so I just bolted the pump down and let the flexible hoses absorb the vibration.

KS


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## kjp1969 (Apr 25, 2004)

(raising hand nervously from the back of the classroom)

Jevi, what's a pressure tank and why would you want one?

Kevin P.


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## luv2rv (Jun 21, 2004)

whew! glad you asked Kevin. I can stop scratching my head and await the answer....


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## snsgraham (May 18, 2004)

kjp1969 said:


> (raising hand nervously from the back of the classroom)
> 
> Jevi, what's a pressure tank and why would you want one?
> 
> Kevin P.


I believe he is refering to an "accumulator". The is a vessel that sits on the pressure side of the pump at a tee in the line. If you take about 10" of 6" pvc and cap both ends, then put a threaded adapter so you can tie into the tee, put the accumulator in a position so it will not fill with water (near verticle), and what you get is a pressurized water system. This helps the water pump out so it does not cycle on and off every time you turn a faucet on. It works really well







I put an air fitting in the top of mine so I could blow it out for winterization.

Scott


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## j1mfrog (Jun 6, 2004)

A surge tank. Helps the pump run less often. Gives more even water pressure.


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

The Shurflo Accumulator Tank is a bladder type pressure storage vessel that reduces pulsation and pump cycling, minimizes pressure spikes, noise, and power usage and increases pump life.

The accumulator tank provides additional water storage to assist the pump in meeting the total demands of the system. It extends pump life by eliminating pump pulsating on/off and makes water available at a moments notice without cycling the pump.

This is same concept as the 2 gallon steel tank, just smaller.

Don't be nervous about ANY question, this isn't **.net. The more questions, the more we all learn.

Kevin


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## luv2rv (Jun 21, 2004)

Okay, that sounds like a great mod. Do camping stores generally carry these? If not, where can I pick one up? How much do they cost (I'll have to convert to CDN funds).

Thanks.


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

You can just buy a steel 2 gallon tank at your local Canadian Tire, Lowe's or home store for around $25-40 US. If this style will fit in your camper. The Shur-Flo accumulatorAccumulator if your space is limited. It is $32 at Campers Choice...installation instructions
more

Plus fittings which range around $1-5.

Good luck

Kevin


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

Here's a picture. (My first posting of a picture, so let me know if it doesn't work)









This is under the bunk beds, facing the rear of the trailer. The white thing on the left is the hot water tank.

luv2rv, you can get the tank at Canadian Tire for $35cdn. Add a couple of fittings, and you'r done.

In a totally unscientific test, I was able to run both kitchen faucets at full open for 30 seconds before the pump would cycle on. This versus the usual braaap..braaap..braaap, previously.

hurricaneplumber, what did you use for the flexible hoses?


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Hi

Great Mod and nice pic. That's another to the mod list









Thor


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Jevi

I have to give you 2 thumbs up














. I finally did this mod. and I have to agree....This is a must mod!.

I did managed to install the 2 gallon surge tank by the pump. All I needed to do is to lift the pump and rotated it 90 degrees. The tank fits in the corner under the seat.

I used the blue one which I purchased from Canadian Tire for $39.95 and a few fittings. The mod was simple and very effective. The extra water while dry camping is an added bonus.

Thanks again, sunny

Thor


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## 219 (Mar 19, 2004)

Excuse me but now I am confused - do you install both the pump and the accumulator and in the pictures which model are they for. Sorry but I am not the great on modifications unless they come with very detailed instructions. Sounds like a must mod but I am a bit unsure as to how to do this.


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

RP,

I installed the Accumulator on my 28BHS, but you can also substitute the accumulator for a 2 gallon tank bought at a hardware store, it is one or the other, not both. Jevi has the 28BHS and the 2 gallon style. My accumulator is located next to the bed with the pump, Jevi put his 2 gallon tank under the bunk bed by the hot water tank, as shown in the above picture.

The accumulator advantages are that it is smaller for tight installations, made from poly material so it won't rust, but has a small capacity.

The 2 gallon tank advantages are that it holds more fluid volume, thus allowing the pump to not cycle on and off as much as a accumulator. The disadvantages are that it is made from steel and the larger capacity for winterizing requires more glycol solution.

If I had thought more in advance, I would have gone with a 2 gallon tank. They are both about the same price.

Any more questions, just ask, this is a easy mod and well worth doing, unless you are going to buy a variable speed pump, in which case you really don't need a tank.

Good Luck

Kevin


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Randy

I have a 28RSS Outback and the pump is located under the dinnet set by the rear slide.

1 - simple remove the cushion and 2 screws. The panel will just lift off.
2 - The pump is now exposed. Remove the 4 screws holding the pump down
3 - What I did next was line the entire area with pink SM board 1" thick. All you need is a measuring tape and a utility knife. Cut the SM board a hairline larger and wedge into place.








This pic is before I added the tank.

4 - Purchase a 2 gal surge/pressure tank a 90 degree 3/4 to 1/2" fitting, 1 pex tee fitting and 2 female pex adapters, 2' of 1/2 water hose. (remember to use teflon tape for the metal connection)

5 - install the 90 degree fitting to the tank. The 1/2" to pex to the 90 degree fitting
6 - Remove the outlet side of the pump and install the tee fitting. 
7 - reconnect the outlet hose to the other side of the tee. Now you should have one open end on the tee fitting.
8 - Place the tank in the corner on a slight angle inward
9 - connect the end of the tank to the tee end with hose. (cut length as required)
10 - I rotated the pump 90 degrees to line up the fittings better.
11 - tighten down the pump with 4 screws.(If you insulated you will need 1" longer screws)
12 - Fasten the tank with a nylon strap to the frame (I used stainless steel screws with washers.)
13 - ensure all connnections are tight and turn on the pump.
14 - replace everything once you are sure everything is dry.
15 - It sounds alot but it is very simple and easy to do.

I recommend this mod to everyone. The results are well worth the effort.
I will post a pic with the tank and fittings - just give me a day or so

Thor


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

I have to agree with Thor, this is a must mod, no more pump noise at night when someone uses the bathroom. The 25rss is set up like the 28rss and the pump is under the dinette seat, plenty of room. I also used a 2 gallon tank and have no regrets, By the way guy's if you get a bladder tank then the inside of the tank is epoxy coated and the bladder also addes a barrier from the steel tank, it should not rust for a long, long time. Kirk


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Better late then never. Pics I promised










Thor


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

I should be in the pink foam business!!









Looks good Thor, you managed to get it all in there with some space to spare.
The nice thing is you can still access the Schrader valve and the tank connection is at the bottom so it will drain. Nice installation.

How well does it all work?


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

It works extremely well. This is a must mod in my books and takes about 45min to complete.

The pump now just runs once the 2 gallons are used. You can get quite a few flushes before the pump kicks in and the noise reduction alone is worth the effort.

When travelling I ensure the system is at full pressure and it make stopping on the side of the road that much easier. No requirement to turn on the pump.









Thor


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## Jevi (May 28, 2004)

I have to second Thor's comments. We just returned from a 6 week cross country trip, and the improvements with the pressure tank were very noticeable. I initially did the mod to reduce the pump cycling, especially at night. However the added bonus of pressurized water while travelling was great. With lots of long days driving, we made many stops along the way, and being able to use the facilities (I know, I shouldn't drink that much coffee!!) without having to remember to turn on the pump, were much appreciated.

The only thing I did that I don't see in Thor's picture is add a valve at the base of the tank. I figure that when winterizing, I can drain the tank, then close the valve while pumping antifreeze throughout the remainder of the system. Once complete, I will open the valve and let some antifreeze into the tank. This way I won't have to fill the tank first when doing the antifreeze. (Of course, I haven't tried this yet so I am not sure if my logic is valid. I'll know soon.)


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Jevi

I was thinking about the valve but decide against it due to space. I decided to winterize the following way.

Do not turn pump on and open all faucets. This should depressurize the tank.
Instead of taking the water from the fresh water tank I will use the pump to put in anti-freeze. Next I will turn to the pump until the system has been pressurized and turn off pump again. Open all faucets until the anti-freeze comes out. I am figuring on about 4gal in total. The entire system should be full of anti-freeze. If this does not work I add a valve.

Since I have never done this before it will be an adventure. I am assuming as the fall nears the Outbacks will have a forum on Winterizing your Outback









Thor


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

I also added one a while back. I did it more to absorb the thermal expansion from the water heater, but an added benefit was the pump runs longer, but less often. I got the tank from grainger, it was 45 dollars. I did add a ball valve, but that was more as a fitting to plumb the hose to the tank than anything else. I was planning on closing the valve and removing the tank to winterize, but maybe depressurizing the system and closing the valve will work just fine.










Mike


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Mike

Great job with the mod!!









Thor


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## 219 (Mar 19, 2004)

This sounds great but I am a little nervous about doing this. Does anyone have any really good up close pictures that would show how to do this. If someone who was successful could show me with pictures then perhaps I could do this. I saw the pictures for this on this thread however they don't show every detail on what to do. Can anyone put something together that shows a step by description on how to do this to a 28BHS. I read the one that is listed above and I am not sure what you are talking about with some of the terms you used. Also I'm not sure where my water pump is?

Also can anyone explain why if this is such a good modification to make why doesn't Outback do it?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

COMPROMISE - In any and everything that can be done there is always better and worse ways to get something done. The pump and piping that is installed in the Outback are a compromise in value to cost.

For the value of the mod the cost must have been deemed to be too high. There are better pumps and better piping and better ways to insulate and retain the water piping. So these things could have also been done and the surge tanks would not be needed.

That all said I did the water surge tank this past weekend. I could not find the 2 gallon tank so I feel a bit like Tim Allen, I put in a 5 gallon pressure surge tank







. Once charged the water will run for over 2 minutes before the pump starts. Then it is quieter while it recharges the tank. I still think I need to add some isolation to the piping to prevent some minor thumping then all will be good with the world.

For me the cost of tank and fittings at $90 was well worth the effort. I also installed a antifreeze suction fitting. So that when it is time to winterize it will be less painful.

I hope to take picture and add them this weekend.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Randey

Email me and let me know exactly what you wish and I will take as many pics as required.

Thor


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

CamperAndy

Where did you fit in a 5 gal tank? That is almost another fresh water tank on its own









I am very impressed









Thor


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Thor - Here are the pictures of the 5 gallon tank. I had to move the pump to make room.



















Before I added the tank the pump was way over to the middle of the space and it made for a lot of wasted space. It is now a little cleaner.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Great Job









I now wish I went big. It looks like the 5gal is the way to go sunny

Thor


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## BigBadBrain (Aug 26, 2004)

Wow. Looks really good. Where did you get the 5 gal. tank?

Where is the antifreese suction fitting - can you see it in the pics?

Brian


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Brian - Had to take the Anti freeze fitting and tube off. I needed one more fitting to make it complete and rather then go get it right then I decided to wait. So I will post a new picture when I get that last fitting and reinstall the tube.


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## Camper Louise (Aug 7, 2004)

Camper Andy is my husband and he got the tank at Lowe's.


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Randey

Did you get my reply? I will post some pics / email them to you after the weekend camp.

Thor


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Randey

Post pics of close up for tank mod.

See gallery for details

Email me if you have anymore questions

Thor


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