# New And Improved Bunk Support



## bbwb

Hi All:
I thought that I would share with you my improved bunk support. I previously made a PVC support but never really thought that it was user friendly. In my new design, I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a cargo support for $8 (with coupon) and did some modifications as shown in the pictures below. This modification took about 3 hours to make (most of the time was spent figuring out how to do it...lol). I am very pleased with the results and think that this one will do the trick.





































bbwb


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## mgerwig

bbwb said:


> Hi All:
> I thought that I would share with you my improved bunk support. I previously made a PVC support but never really thought that it was user friendly. In my new design, I went to Harbor Freight and purchased a cargo support for $8 (with coupon) and did some modifications as shown in the pictures below. This modification took about 3 hours to make (most of the time was spent figuring out how to do it...lol). I am very pleased with the results and think that this one will do the trick.
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> bbwb


Very nice!!!!!!!


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## crunchman12002

It shows a minimum height of 45"? Did you cut the bars down to make it shorter or did it fit without modification?
crunchman


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## bbwb

Yes, I had to cut off quite a bit to make it fit. I figure that I have about 10" of extension capability.
One thing I would do differently, is the piece that got cut off had a flared section with a washer on it to prevent over extending the rod...unfortunately, I hammered over the top of the other end to make the ball socket stay on the rod. I would have resized the lower section and used it in the final assembly.

bbwb


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## SLO Outbacker

I really like what you did. I was thinking about doing the same thing, but was unsure how hard it would be to modify. Thanks for the pics.

Plus, now I have another reason to go to Harbor Freight this week!!!


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## 4 Outbackers

bbwb said:


> Yes, I had to cut off quite a bit to make it fit. I figure that I have about 10" of extension capability.
> One thing I would do differently, is the piece that got cut off had a flared section with a washer on it to prevent over extending the rod...unfortunately, I hammered over the top of the other end to make the ball socket stay on the rod. I would have resized the lower section and used it in the final assembly.
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> bbwb


Excellent mod!


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## bbwb

I was asked to put some dimensions to my mod...here they are:



















Also, here are some more pics under construction.




























Note I would use the "cut off silver rod" as the replacement for the top that came with the unit. I used both (blue) tubes for the upper section (the original has two tubes to allow for extending, just keep it squished together).
Also, these dimensions are variable...I saw another upper wood block by someone else here on the site and my dimensions were different (I also had to use my planer, table saw and other toys







). The critical dimensions are the back (goes to the underside of the main bunk) and the offset to the backing block (extends below the bunk - 3" in my case). This is where the support comes from. The decorative wood trim on the bunk DOES NOT get held by the top support piece (it is only sawdust with a vinyl wood grain). I used some craft foam on the inside of the bracket to prevent scratches to the vinyl wood grain.


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## crunchman12002

bbwb said:


> Yes, I had to cut off quite a bit to make it fit. I figure that I have about 10" of extension capability.
> One thing I would do differently, is the piece that got cut off had a flared section with a washer on it to prevent over extending the rod...unfortunately, I hammered over the top of the other end to make the ball socket stay on the rod. I would have resized the lower section and used it in the final assembly.
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> bbwb


Thank you.. Nice support!
crunchman


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## deanintemp

Very nice job, I may have copied your PVC style support and I agree with you - while it is functional, it is not very user friendly. In looking at your newer design it appears as though you cradle the exterior trim of the bed. Does the trim rest in the cradle and therefore take all the weight or is the weight applied to the underneath surface of the bed? If the weight is carried by the trim, how well is the trim fastened to the bed frame? I am typing this from the office; otherwise I would just go out and check my camper...lol.


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## bbwb

No, the trim is not bearing any weight. The tallest portion and the next one in (3" lower in my case) bears all of the weight. I believe that the tallest portion bears on a hidden aluminum support and the lower one is exposed if you look from below. The lowest notch is wider and lower to avoid any contact with the "finished wood".

bbwb


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## 2011 210RS

Checked my 2011 today and my rails are beginning to split/separate. It's sad that Keystone hasn't stepped up on this. I will most likly use the Unistrut but am considering going with aluminum. Which is worse, ripping the strut from the ceiling or the strut fails? Both are horrible options. Would a third rail help? Opinions please.


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## rdvholtwood

2011 210RS said:


> Checked my 2011 today and my rails are beginning to split/separate. It's sad that Keystone hasn't stepped up on this. I will most likly use the Unistrut but am considering going with aluminum. Which is worse, ripping the strut from the ceiling or the strut fails? Both are horrible options. Would a third rail help? Opinions please.


I would contact Keystone and let them know. Our 250RS did the same thing and they authorized a repair to replace the rails. I noticed that when the RV dealership installed the new rails - they added some heavy duty washers with the screws. I believe they may have even drilled more holes to add more support.

Currently, I use a scissor jack to help support underneath the bed while we are on the road. It has been working fine - nothing fancy - but it does the job.

Rick


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## kellyd

Noticed that my 2008 250RS also had the splitting rails issue from support screws installed without washers to spread the load. The front most two screws had already pulled completely through the rails, so I removed them, installed fender washers and re-installed the screws. Now I noticed that after tightening the screws, the top of the rails is splitting off from the side rails! Obviously the rail material and thickness were not appropriate for the bunk bed load while traveling. So disappointed that Keystone hadn't fixed this bug by now.

I'll try the scissor's jack idea as a weight support supplement - good ideas everyone.


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## Outback G-manX5

Hello All,
This is my first time posting on this forum and first time ever owning a TT. The wife and I have been looking off and on for about 5 years and seriously looking at buying for the last two. Well, we finally pulled the trigger on a 08' 26-KBRS and certainly glad we did. Thanks to these forums, I mentioned the rail problem to my wife and sure enough when we checked the last screw on the left side had popped through. Being adamant D.I.Yers we accepted the challenge head on. First, I removed all the track screws and with the exception of the last two added 3/4" washers...that should keep the tracks firmly attached. I then took a piece of aluminum about 3/4" x 7" and attached it to the last two screws essentially combining their strength along the end of the rail (potentially the most weight bearing of the entire run). This nicely snugged and reinforced the section where the rail had cracked. I went ahead and did both sides just to be safe. The wife and I then function tested the rig and the clearances worked fine...hopefully it will all continue to hold up especially since finding the problem at a stage of minimal failure. Now on to make these supports and use them like they were provided by the manufacturer for the intended purpose of extending the life of the slideout...hint, hint, wink, wink.

Happy travels all,
-Rob


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