# Broken Crank



## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

I went to hookup the Outback today, I started to lower the Outback, but each time I turned the crank, it made a loud click sound, and would not lower. I remember when I cranked it up last time to level it in the driveway, it made a sudden clicky sound and I stopped cranking thinking I must be at the limit. I was able to raise the outback a little using the stabilizers. I know they aren't designed for the weight, but I didn't have a jack to support the trailer. Well, when I moved the wood block, the foot fell down. When I look inside the crank, it looks like the foot came unscrewed. I tried to line up the screw with the hole in the foot, but I couldn't get it to screw back in.  Right now I'm planning on unbolting the whole thing and taking it to the dealer since it's still under warranty. Does anyone know if this is easy to fix? Is this something that rarely breaks? I couldn't find any previous posts with this problem.

Thanks for any infom
Bruce


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Since its under warranty, it should be an easy fix. Bring to dealer, walk out with a new one.

Good Luck. At least it was not on vacation. I do not mind when stuff breaks in my driveway. A lot less aggravating

John


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

This is something I often worry about. This crank malfunctioned on a 21 RS...the lightest hitch weight of all Outbacks. My 26 RS has one of the heaviest hitch weights. Is there any maintenance needed on these jacks? And if so, how do you do it? Is it just a matter of opening the silver cap and adding some grease?

Randy


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Bruce,

Sounds to me like a good time to upgrade to a power jack.








You will wonder why it took you so long.
Of course, that would be on your nickel, not Keystone.

Just a thought.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Tongue weight's not so little on the 21RS, mines almost 800.

Broken tongue jack, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... good excuse to get an electric tongue jack









Mike


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## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

camping479 said:


> Tongue weight's not so little on the 21RS, mines almost 800.
> 
> Broken tongue jack, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.... good excuse to get an electric tongue jack
> 
> ...


It's amazing how fast the replies come on this site!!!
I was thinging about the electric tongue jack. I've got to check on the price. I've considered the manual crank as "excercise" until now. Of course my arm's a little sore today after cranking that thing a million times over the weekend trying to get it down!!!


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## toolman (Jul 12, 2005)

It sounds like you cranked it up too high and the pin inside the crank broke. There are 2 type of jacks that I know about on the 21RS, 1 is easy to repair by going to your local hardware store and buying a .29 part. The other jack needs to go back to the dealer and they will either replace it or send it to be fixed. If you are lucky the dealer will just replace it. But, they might blame you if you jacked it up to high and broke the pin.

Good Luck

Toolman


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

camping479 said:


> Tongue weight's not so little on the 21RS, mines almost 800.
> [snapback]58213[/snapback]​


Wow...I was just going by the literature for 2004 Outbacks. It says the 21 RS has a hitch weight of 360 pounds. 26 RS is listed at 600.

Randy


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## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

It's an omen... time to up grade to a POWER crank!

Power-up








MaeJae


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

> Wow...I was just going by the literature for 2004 Outbacks. It says the 21 RS has a hitch weight of 360 pounds. 26 RS is listed at 600.


Yep and I'm about 100-150# under gvw (plenty to spare on axle ratings though). We don't even pack that much stuff.

Mike


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Oh yeah. Ya gotta get an electric now


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## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

OK, if I go for the power jack, is there one that you guys would recommend?

It looks like they are around $250. I see weight ratings for the jacks. Is this for the trailer weight or just the tongue weight? This is all new to me. I might consider it if the dealer doesn't cover it under warranty.

Thanks,
Bruce


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

I would suggest any of the name brands that are rated at 3000# or more. I believe they all use a better mechanism at that weight as compared to the 2000 or even 2500's. Remember, you'll be lifting the trailer tongue and also the rear of your truck so you don't have to work getting hooked up









I chose the Barker because of the built in bubble level on top. Once I get level side to side I just hit the switch on the jack and stop when the bubble is in the middle. Done.

Good Luck!









Barker Hi-Power Jacks


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Its time time upgrade the electric jack
We have the 2500 and does a fine job for us
Best part is (NO MORE CRANKING)









Don


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

Have the dealer give you a new one then go to ebay and buy an electric jack.

John


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## 7heaven (Jun 4, 2005)

Last trip of the season coming up. I'll have to remember to really crank that puppy up hard....


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Go for the electric. Talk to your dealer. Maybe you can get the upgrade for the difference between the manual and the electric.







This way it will also come with free installation.









Thor


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## drobe5150 (Jan 21, 2005)

i think we just found an easy way to replace the old crank








we better not let the dw's see this post









darrel


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Like everyone else has said...time to upgrade.

No reason to go back to that darn hand crank...relax with a cold brew and watch that trailer go up/down. Heck, you might even learn how to lift the truck with the ball attached to make swinging your hitch bars over with no lever!!


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

Upgrade! California Jim recommend the Barker and that's what I put on my Layton three years ago. Before I traded the Layton in for the Outback, I took it off. Man! What a pain in the neck it was to manually crank that baby to take it to the dealer. I took the electric jack camping with us this weekend and put it on the Outback. Once you go power jack - aint no way you can go back.

Scott


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## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

OK you've talked me into it! I think I'll get the Barker as recommended. I'll see what I can work out with the dealer. Thanks for all the help. Let me know if you need help cranking up your manual crank next time







.

Bruce


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

I agree with John, still get the old one replaced if it's under warranty so when/if you get another trailer you can take the electric jack off when you sell.

Mike


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Upgrade - Power jack - Get the remote control option while you are at it. Why bother bending if you do not have too?









I bet you the back side of the remote doubles as a bottle opener









Thor


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## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

Now you tell me about the remote! I just bought the Barker 3000. I'm going to ask for a new manual crank from the dealer for the future. They were quit a bit more expensive for the Power jacks then other places. I guess I can put the new manual crank the dealer gives me in the







ground about 3 feet from the trailer so I can put my beer on top of it while I push the button on my new Power jack!

Thanks,
Bruce


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Excellent choice!!

Don't forget to chalk up one more "mod" on your list after this is installed...


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Excellent choice!!
> 
> Don't forget to chalk up one more "mod" on your list after this is installed...
> 
> ...


Great mod - This is is still on my "mod to do list"

Thor


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

Thor said:


> Upgrade - Power jack - Get the remote control option while you are at it. Why bother bending if you do not have too?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thor,

My power jack is three years old and still working fine, but when you mentioned one with a remote control I went looking for one. Couldn't find one. Can you tell me where to get one?

Thanks,
Scott


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## Dreamtimers (Mar 7, 2005)

Thor said:


> Upgrade - Power jack - Get the remote control option while you are at it. Why bother bending if you do not have too?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You may have a wonderful marketing idea on this.








When you make the first $million, you can send one to all the outbackers.com members as a... promo







YEAH thats it...
















Dreamtimers


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Bruce,

While you are shopping for that power tounge jack, be sure to take a look at the Atwood jacks. They are very well made, and no plastic gears inside! We have ben very happy with ours.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

I think he was joking about the remote control


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## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

OK I'm going to install the new jack this weekend. Mounting the jack is easy (just bolt it back down), but I have a question on the electrical end of it. I'm new to the outback, and not an electrician. When I connect the power wire to the positive terminal, do I need to disconnect anything? I don't want to get shocked








Also, should I get a battery connector for the wire, or just tighten it down? I assume I should get a connector. Any special types?

I thought I'd ask now before I get started.

Thanks
Bruce

Oh yeah, it does seem like I came across out remote controlled power jack when I was looking around on the internet, it seems like it was super expensive though.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Bruce,

For safety sake, I would disconnect the ground strap to the battery before doing any other work. And yes, you should use a crimp-on eye connector with an eye large enough to fit over the auxillary wiring stud (the small wires to the battery) on the positive terminal.

Good luck, and...

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

On mine the attached wire wasn't long enough and I had to crimp on an extension. Also the Jack tube itself is your ground where it touches your trailer frame. The instructions will tell you what to do about scuffing off a little paint to insure a good connection between the two.

Oh yeah, one last note about operating the unit. Don't ever engage the up/down switch unless the unit is completely stopped. Even if you hit it again going in the same direction. It will blow the fuse immediately. I've already used up my two spare 30 amp fuses doing this and need more









Enjoy !


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

California Jim said:


> I think he was joking about the remote control
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Oh sure..now you tell us. I've been Googling that for hours..


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

California Jim said:


> I think he was joking about the remote control
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm soooo disappointed!


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## TheMillers (Aug 8, 2005)

I couldn't wait for the weekend. I installed the new Barker 3000 Power Jack last night. Like others indicated, the wire wasn't long enough. I used disconnect connectors to connect the two wires so I can easily disconnect the Power Jack if needed. I'm a little uncomfortable having the up/down switch in plain view. It's just asking for some kid in the neighborhood to play with it. I was going to put a toggle switch in so I can kill the power coming to it when its in the driveway, but I couldn't find a 30amp switch yesterday. Maybe I'll get the cover for it instead, at least then nobody will see the switch and be tempted.

Works great. I can still open my rear hatch when hooked up and take the Propane cover off.

Thanks everyone for the advice,
Bruce


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Bruce,

Glad to hear the install went well!








The hidden cut-off switch is a great idea. If you have a battery cut-off already installed, and it is on the ground wire, it will accomplish the same thing.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

PDX_Doug said:


> Bruce,
> 
> Glad to hear the install went well!
> 
> ...


Great idea with the the cut-off switch.









Maybe the cut-off switch can double as a bottle opener







I was only joking about the remote - But it would be slick. Even better if the Outback self levelled on a remote - Imagine the look of the campers beside you as you push a button while drinking a beer and the Outback self levels









Thor


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> If you have a battery cut-off already installed, and it is on the ground wire, it will accomplish the same thing.[snapback]58875[/snapback]​


But,

By using the battery cut-off as your means for cutting power to the power jack, you can't charge your battery. If you place a little switch in-line on the wire from the power jack, you can still charge the battery. Or, you can just pull the fuse - but don't lose it.

Just 2 cents worth.

Scott


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