# Water Pump Check Valve Failed



## shaela21 (Aug 16, 2005)

I am going camping next month, and for the first time it will be dry camping. So, I decided today to fill the fresh water tank and sanitize it, and check the water system for leaks. I have never used the water pump except for winterizing. I filled the tank, turned on the pump and the water went spraying out of the City Connection water connector







. The check valve behind the plastic panel was pooched. So I removed the hoses and the screws and removed the panel, hoping that a check valve change out would be easy. Not so easy. My question is this: Is the check valve part of the plastic panel? It seems that was as I cannot figure how to remove it without damaging the plastic piece. Has anyone replaced this part, and do they need to replace both parts? Thanks for the help.


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## dancinmon (Oct 5, 2004)

Some people just replace the whole panel. A few years ago someone put a procedure on this site telling how to reset the O-ring inside the valve. I can't find it now but I know I printed it out and have it in my TT at home...I'll look for it tonight. I believe you take the valve apart from the backside and reposition the O-ring.

If you push the check valve in with pressure on the water system (pump on) during winterizing, it will sometimes blow the O-ring off it's seat in the valve. It happened to me but I traded that Outback in on a new Outback. When I winterize the city water connection now, I turn off the pump and open a faucet to relieve all the pressure. Then I push the city water check valve in and let the pink stuff run out without pressure on it.


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## hyewalt34 (May 9, 2004)

I replaced mine last month. I tried and tried to get the O ring seated properly but the valve kept leaking a bit. It was probably deformed. Camping world here didn't have anything to fix it with and besides, it's a pressed in (to the plastic) part.

I was quite surprised when the dealer sold me the whole panel for $11.00!

Walter


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## wcocolin (Sep 29, 2005)

I have had so much trouble with that stupid valve I actully removed it. I put a maunual shut off on the outside of the hose connection. When I use the pump, for water or winterizing, I close the shut off valve. When I us city water connection I open it. I realize with it open that I don't have an active back flow preventor, but at least I don't have to keep taking the thing apart.


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## shaela21 (Aug 16, 2005)

Wow, $11.00 for the panel. I checked with the dealership that sold me the OB and they want $100.00 for the panel







. I almost fell over. But what they do is drill out the check valve (when it needs to be replaced) and they attach a new check valve that is ready attached to a plastic frame using small screws. Sounds kind of hokey to me. But even that part is almost $30.00. So, being of sound mind and a lot of creativity, I have decided that I am going to look for a in line check valve that goes at the other end of the hose that is attached to the pump discharge. Same job, just a different location. And I will get a good quality valve, not these pieces of junk. But for now I have taken the old valve apart, re-seated the O-ring and it works fine for now. Thanks for the advice.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

shaela21 said:


> Wow, $11.00 for the panel. I checked with the dealership that sold me the OB and they want $100.00 for the panel
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The valve on mine is still working fine (knock on wood).
Just the same, I carry a brass male garden hose plug.
If the valve ever fails while I'm out dry camping, I'll just screw the plug into the city water connection and continue camping.
You might consider picking one up to keep for emergencies.
You can get them at Lowes for a few bucks.


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## hyewalt34 (May 9, 2004)

Wow, what a discrepancy on dealer prices! I really did get it for $11 and thanked them! I was expecting $30.

Walter


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

*Resetting City Water Inlet valve:*
re-posted from OUTBACKERS.COM

Remove the outside water inlet panel that has the water connection etc. on it. Mine has enough slack in the lines that I could get it out enough to get the hose clamps off. Try and save the sticky tape around the perimeter of the panel, it helps keep the water out.

Next remove the screen on the city water inlet and unscrew the plastic fitting on the back of the brass valve itself.

Behind the screen is a little plastic pin with a retaining ring and a spring behind it. Set the whole thing down and press down on the plastic pin so the plastic retainer pops off, save the retainer and spring. Now you can remove the pin from the back. It looks kind of like a golf tee, the o-ring will probably still be inside the valve, remove it and it will slip back over the widest part of the pin in the little groove. It doesn't seat on there very tight.

That o-ring is the part that gets knocked loose when there is pressure from the trailer side of the valve. It's meant to only have pressure from the street side of the valve. Re-assembly is the same as taking it apart, insert the plastic pin part making sure the ring stays put and then put the spring back in the other side and snap the retainer back on.

Then hook up the plumbing, re-install the panel and caulk around it with silicone.

It's not very complicated, just keep track of the parts and how you take it apart.


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