# 240Urs - A Different Rear Slide Brace



## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

We can't open the rear slide when the unit is parked in our drive, and since the bed in the closed position isn't supposed to be subjected to the weight of a person, we couldn't make the bed or pack the storage shelves in back until we arrived at the campside. Decided a brace would be in order.

This brace in the photo just has the components held in place by pressure. I had planned to bolt the wood to the jack, but it seems unnecessary. I do have some rubber I will put on both sides of the wood pieces, and on the jack 'foot' as well to discourage slippage. I used an impact wrench to quickly raise the jack, but think the last inch or so should be done with a hand tool, to prevent damage to the ceiling/roof from too much pressure. The one mistake I made with the jack is not ensuring the large threaded rod only extended from one side, as the exterior jacks do. I had planned for the rod to only extend beneath the bed, not out into the hallway. Not a major problem - just need to be careful. A step stool placed there will offer shin protection and assist us getting into the bed when it's closed.

The space between the bed and floor is 26". This is a 28" jack. A 24" jack will work using the proper thickness boards.

Hope this helped someone.


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## Tourdfox (Oct 4, 2012)

This particular area has been a topic of many discussions on the site. Which i'm sure you've seen.Search rear bed support will no doubt bring up a few if not. From Keystone weight on my 2012 rear bed slide can be 1000 lbs if i remember correctly ???. I also put lots of stuff on the bed area for travel. No issues. Also slept on the bed countless times when it is in the storage position. Never a problem. Also use a support. Tried a couple different things. What i use now is a telescopic adjustable rod from home depot with a foot on either end. The fastest and easiest so far.

When the bed is in the out position keep an eye on the bolts /screws that hold the 2 tracks to the ceiling for the bed. Tighten when needed. My experience they will need it on occasion. Assuming the newer models use the same system.


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Thanks for the advice on tightening the rails. I'll keep an eye on them.

The weight warning on ours (I don't remember exactly now) was very low when in the closed position, plus I've read posts about the top rails pullling loose during travelling, which we do a great deal more than most. I just didn't want to chance it. A $35 jack, some rubber and two pieces of scrap wood seemed seemed a low price to pay against future repairs.


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

Just did another review of weight limits. It seems 1000 pounds extended but, from reports of discussion with Tech Reps, 50 pounds when closed. Generic owners manual states not to sep on the floor of closed slides (I'm assuming regular living area slide outs) because the floor is not supported and could be damaged by stepping on them. So, again, better safe than sorry, imo.


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## TXJax (Dec 24, 2017)

Wise man.

My rails on my new-to-me 2007 210RS are separating from the ceiling, and one is split and broken.

Just don't get on the bed when it is closed.


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## 1happyoutbacker (Apr 17, 2018)

I used this nice light aluminum jack. Was $20, and a couple pieces of wood and athletic floor mat. Only hope the floor under it is strong enough and I'm not just creating a different problem.


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## RFalcon (Apr 29, 2017)

1happyoutbacker said:


> I used this nice light aluminum jack. Was $20, and a couple pieces of wood and athletic floor mat. Only hope the floor under it is strong enough and I'm not just creating a different problem.


Good thought about the floor. I suspect a longer piece of wood spanning two floor joists would distribute the weight better. But where are the floor joists lol.


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