# How Do You Tie Down Your Awning



## slogan (Sep 18, 2009)

Hello All,

Just curious how everyone here secures their awnings in rv parks that do not allow ground anchors or tying off to trees etc...? I know the best way is to roll it back up when you are not out there but with furniture, a few outdoor appliances and of course the awning lights, that would take a bit of time to pack up/store and then repeat the process. Anyone have any ideas suggestions on how to accomplish this? I thought about the 5 gallon bucket full of concrete but wasn't sure if that would be secure enough or heavy enough.

I'm considering staying at Topsail Hill Preserves in Destin Fl. on 9/25-10/2 and they have the policy there of no ground anchors since they have underground irrigation system in place.

Thanks,
Scott


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## bill_pfaff (Mar 11, 2005)

I do picnic table and 7 gal buckets of water. 7 gal buckets are hard to find however so I guess 5 gal would do. I then use the water to flush the black water tank when we break camp I think the cement is a lot of extra weight to carry.


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## slogan (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks Bill, I hadn't thought about the picnic table and you are right, hauling 5 gallons of concrete would take up space and add unnecessary towing/hauling weight. I like the idea of buckets of water though. Out of curiosity, where did you find the 7 gallon buckets at? I'll definitely have to keep an eye out for them.

Scott


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## Jimmie (Jan 7, 2008)

Hey Scott,
When we were at Topsail a year ago, I used the long metal tent spikes to tie my awning down. I didn't pound them in but rather pushed them by hand as the soil there is quite sandy. Nobody ever said a thing about it and we were there for a week.

Jimmie


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

Buckets: Lowes and Homely Despot both sell new empty 5 gallon buckets for about $3. Each bucket when filled w/water will weight about 40 pounds. They nest easily (so you can carry 3 or 4 without space constraints) and lids are available.

Best part is that a 5 gallon bucket of concrete always weighs what it weighs (50#?) and a 5 gallon bucket of water, when empty, weighs maybe a couple of pounds...No schlepping that concrete weight on your travels.


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## booze123 (Jun 29, 2010)

We've camped in location where the soil is fairly firm. Went to Home Depot and bought some large nails (10" spikes) and I drive them in at an angle and they hold pretty good. Never had one pull out.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

You probably would have success with securing an awning strap to your front and rear stabilizer jacks. Just be sure the horizontal arm tensioners are tight.

I haven't been to topsail so I don't know What sort of wind your dealing with. But certainly if a 5 gallon bucket of water at each end of the awning is enough, tying off to the jacks should be too.

Eric


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## deanintemp (Apr 3, 2007)

egregg57 said:


> You probably would have success with securing an awning strap to your front and rear stabilizer jacks. Just be sure the horizontal arm tensioners are tight.
> 
> I haven't been to topsail so I don't know What sort of wind your dealing with. But certainly if a 5 gallon bucket of water at each end of the awning is enough, tying off to the jacks should be too.
> 
> Eric


I like the idea of tying it off to the camper frame. I would also lower the awning all the way such that is creates a downward wind ramp instead of a parachute.

I have permanently mounted awning lights that roll up with the awning; makes it much easier to simply close the awning during the unexpected storm that likes to roll in at 2am!


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## Up State NY Camper (Apr 7, 2010)

What kind of lights would that be?

I use 1.5 foot spikes at an angle, and lower my awning if we're having a breezy day. I also have 2 of those cork screw style spikes you can tie your dog up to for softer soil. My buddy uses spring loaded straps that work pretty well.


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## slogan (Sep 18, 2009)

Thanks everybody for the feedback. I have the cork screw anchors as well as the spike anchors but since I had read on the Topsail Hill website about not being allowed to use the anchors I felt that I needed to abide and look for other measures (wife always tells me that everything has to be by the book with me). I will probably use the idea of buckets of water and the picnic table but also like the idea of securing to the stablizing jacks as well. When securing it to the stabilizing jacks do you lower the awning down more to get the best support and just leave it in that position? I will lower it especially when forecast of rain/storms or windy conditions are present, just wasn't sure if I were to step away and not lower it if there would be enough support going in that direction to protect the awning if a gust or storm was to pop up unexpectantly. When I anchor it down in a campground that allows staking, I typically use the method of two ratcheting style tie downs on each end of the awning going down slightly forward of the awning to the anchors with springs attached, thus providing a bit of forward support.

Thanks again,
Scott


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

We use corkscrew anchors and ratchets....If I can’t get the corkscrew into the ground, I have metal stakes as backup...


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## TexanThompsons (Apr 21, 2009)

deanintemp said:


> You probably would have success with securing an awning strap to your front and rear stabilizer jacks. Just be sure the horizontal arm tensioners are tight.
> 
> I haven't been to topsail so I don't know What sort of wind your dealing with. But certainly if a 5 gallon bucket of water at each end of the awning is enough, tying off to the jacks should be too.
> 
> Eric


I like the idea of tying it off to the camper frame. I would also lower the awning all the way such that is creates a downward wind ramp instead of a parachute.

I have permanently mounted awning lights that roll up with the awning; makes it much easier to simply close the awning during the unexpected storm that likes to roll in at 2am!
[/quote]

You've got to provide a pic of how in the world you did this. My DW doesn't consider setup complete until the lights have been strung on the awning.


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## Blackjack (Jan 8, 2010)

Here's what I have used for years and never had a problem My link . There is a "C" clamp that wraps around the awning roll tube on each side with the belt attached to this. Then the spring attaches to the other end of the belt. At the edge of the spring is a J-hook which attaches to the holes of the bottom of the arm of the awning where you would normally spike it into the ground. I never removed the base of my awning arms from the camper. This gives the same effect of strapping it to the frame.

Now that I have the power awning I have been retracting the awning at night, when we go away from the campsite or storming so I haven't used this for the past season. I could attach it to the frame now that there is no arm to attach it to.


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## jake's outback (Jul 24, 2010)

I don't tie mine down. Power awning is easy to deal with, pull it in most nights... or if we leave the site.


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## Tangooutback (Apr 16, 2010)

When you strap awning down to the ground, you may alleviate the flapping action but the tension created by strong wind still exerts tearing action on the part attached to camper wall. I am concerned it may tear the awning away from camper wall. In that case the repair would be a lot more painful than simply roll it up.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

Tangooutback said:


> When you strap awning down to the ground, you may alleviate the flapping action but the tension created by strong wind still exerts tearing action on the part attached to camper wall. I am concerned it may tear the awning away from camper wall. In that case the repair would be a lot more painful than simply roll it up.


I can say from personal experience that tied down awnings have drastically less tearing action, if any of significance.

And there's nothing like getting up around 7:30 or 8:00 and having a dry place to sit outside, even if just from the dew.


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## deanintemp (Apr 3, 2007)

TexanThompsons said:


> You probably would have success with securing an awning strap to your front and rear stabilizer jacks. Just be sure the horizontal arm tensioners are tight.
> 
> I haven't been to topsail so I don't know What sort of wind your dealing with. But certainly if a 5 gallon bucket of water at each end of the awning is enough, tying off to the jacks should be too.
> 
> Eric


I like the idea of tying it off to the camper frame. I would also lower the awning all the way such that is creates a downward wind ramp instead of a parachute.

I have permanently mounted awning lights that roll up with the awning; makes it much easier to simply close the awning during the unexpected storm that likes to roll in at 2am!
[/quote]

You've got to provide a pic of how in the world you did this. My DW doesn't consider setup complete until the lights have been strung on the awning.
[/quote]

I simply mounted an 18' light rope along the length of the roller tube and they simply open and close with the awning. Works great and provides the perfect amount of lighting around the campfire without being too bright!
Awning Lights 1
Awning Lights 2
Awning Lights 3


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