# Followup Issues After 5 Days Of Dry Camping



## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

Here are some random thoughts and issues I have floating around in my head after 5 days of dry camping at a music festival in high heat and humidity (90+ degrees, 90+ humidity)


Black Tank odors after flushing
We seem to get some bad black tank odors into the bathroom and living area after flushing. After experimenting, it could be diminished by making sure the lid was closed when flushing, but it was still there. I pulled the black tank vent cap off and found the pipe that came up seemed like it would barely have 1/16 of inch room below the vent cap. I removed the cap, dumped a gallon of water down the tube, and I *think* the problem is gone. How much clearance does the black vent cap need? the Black tank was maybe half full.
Generator Performance
Well, the hard start kit I put on the A/C helped, but the A/C still overloaded my Honda EU3000 once in a while when it was on Econo mode. I'm guessing this is to be expected, yes?. Anyone know how many amps the ceiling 12 volt lights draw, and how much the outside flood lights draw?
Odor when slide in 
Something we've noticed since we've had our camper (Sydney 290RLS), when I pull the slideout in... there is a weird, somewhat unpleasant odor that lingers inside whlie the slideout is in. It's not clearly a black tank odor, though my wife tends to think it is. I'm unsure of how to characterize it. Does anyone else notice a unique order in the trailer when their slide is in? It seems to dissipate after the slide is extended and out for a day or so.
A/C Peformance
I noticed that the air coming out of the A/C unit was cool and dry, but not as cool as our normal camping trips when the temperature rarely exceeds 85, and usually more in the 60's and 70's and humidity is less
Thanks for any comments or suggestions ;-) Or just reading ;-)


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The black tank vent is critical for proper smell control. If the gap was only 1/16" on the cap then it would not have vented properly and there easily could have been a burp back into the trailer. You raising it will make a difference. Also turn the fan on pushing air into the bathroom will also help prevent the burp. The only caveat to the fan suggestion is the outside wind direction. If the wind is from a direction that will push the black tank vent toward the fan you will just loop the vent output back into the trailer.

Slide odor, check the top of the slide for something that may have ended up there and could be the cause of the odor.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

The odor is from the rubber roof material on top of the slide. Same odor that some people notice on a hot day when they're outside of the trailer walking around and get a whiff. Kind of a sharp, sulfurous smell?


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

Insomniak said:


> The odor is from the rubber roof material on top of the slide. Same odor that some people notice on a hot day when they're outside of the trailer walking around and get a whiff. Kind of a sharp, sulfurous smell?


Hmmm... yes, I think it could be described that way. I think that's why my wife thinks it's a black tank type of odor...but I don't think so. I think the I'll have to just peek on the top of the slide for any debris or other smelly stuff...and see if I can catch a whiff of the top of the slide. It definately seems to only be apparent when we go to pack that camper after it's been sitting for a bit, or when we pull in the slide after being setup.

Thanks CamperAndy and Insomniak for the suggestions.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

btw, here are some pics of the black tank vent. Doesn't it seem like it extends a long way up?


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## jimc (Jun 8, 2011)

We used to get the black tank odor inside on our previous trailer in extreme heat. I discussed it with our dealer and they suggested using more chemicals when it gets extremely hot and to be sure we were flushing sufficient water with every flush. We did both and no longer had the problem. Never did look at the vent.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Why is there duct tape on the black tank vent?


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

CamperAndy said:


> Why is there duct tape on the black tank vent?


I assumed it was supposed to be there? The camper is a 2010 model and we bought new in April of '10. It was the first time I took the black tank vent off. It does seem like it comes up high, doesn't it? I guess I could take the grey tank vent off to compare.

Hmmm.

When I shined a light down, I could see all the way to the black tank and contents. I poured a gallon of water down, just in case there was a spiders nest or some other partial obstruction. Whatever the case, I think removing the vent cap helped alot.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The only reason I can see Keystone put duct tape there was because Gilligan did not get the right roof penetration sleeve for the black tank vent pipe. The rubber inner seal should be a tight fit around the vent pipe. I think they come in 1.5 and 2 inch sizes. Maybe even a 3" size.

That is just a water leak waiting to happen.


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## john7349 (Jan 13, 2008)

luverofpeanuts said:


> Here are some random thoughts and issues I have floating around in my head after 5 days of dry camping at a music festival in high heat and humidity (90+ degrees, 90+ humidity)
> 
> 
> Black Tank odors after flushing
> ...


#921 bulbs @12.8 Volts run about 1.4 Amps (18 Watts) ceiling lights, per bulb.
#1003 bulbs @ 12.8 Volts run anout .94 Amps (12 Watts) porch light.

Not sure what type of bulb is in the flood lights. I never seem to use them...


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

john7349 said:


> ped a gallon of water down the tube, and I *think* the problem is gone. How much clearance does the black vent cap need? the Black tank was maybe half full.
> Generator Performance
> Well, the hard start kit I put on the A/C helped, but the A/C still overloaded my Honda EU3000 once in a while when it was on Econo mode. I'm guessing this is to be expected, yes?. *Anyone know how many amps the ceiling 12 volt lights draw, and how much the outside flood lights draw?*


#921 bulbs @12.8 Volts run about 1.4 Amps (18 Watts) ceiling lights, per bulb.
#1003 bulbs @ 12.8 Volts run anout .94 Amps (12 Watts) porch light.

Not sure what type of bulb is in the flood lights. I never seem to use them...
[/quote]

cool, thanks. Seems like those bulbs shouldn't cause any issues with the Honda3000 if it was only the A/C and those running. Something tells me the having both outside flood lights will draw a fair amount...but who knows.


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## TwoElkhounds (Mar 11, 2007)

luverofpeanuts said:


> ped a gallon of water down the tube, and I *think* the problem is gone. How much clearance does the black vent cap need? the Black tank was maybe half full.
> Generator Performance
> Well, the hard start kit I put on the A/C helped, but the A/C still overloaded my Honda EU3000 once in a while when it was on Econo mode. I'm guessing this is to be expected, yes?. *Anyone know how many amps the ceiling 12 volt lights draw, and how much the outside flood lights draw?*


#921 bulbs @12.8 Volts run about 1.4 Amps (18 Watts) ceiling lights, per bulb.
#1003 bulbs @ 12.8 Volts run anout .94 Amps (12 Watts) porch light.

Not sure what type of bulb is in the flood lights. I never seem to use them...
[/quote]

cool, thanks. Seems like those bulbs shouldn't cause any issues with the Honda3000 if it was only the A/C and those running. Something tells me the having both outside flood lights will draw a fair amount...but who knows.
[/quote]

Did you switch over your fridge from Auto to Gas? If you don't do this, the fridge will automatically switch over the electric once you connect the generator. We leave our fridge on gas only while we dry camp.

DAN


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The DC lights by themselves will have little impact on the generator. Issues that may cause you concern are any of the major AC loads that could cause problems.

Fridge - in auto will switch to AC when you start the GEN
Water heater - make sure the AC element is off
Converter - Here is where the lights affect things, if you ran the battery down by running a lot of lights, when you start the gen the converter will pull a bunch of amps. If you are starting the gen to run the AC then turn all other AC loads off until the AC is on line then turn the converter on. Leave the fridge in GAS ONLY and leave the water heater AC element off.

As for the generator, if it is slow to respond off of the eco throttle then you may need to clean the carb. Do you still have some of last years gas in the generator? Use fresh gas and some crab/injector cleaner to clean the guts of the carb.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

CamperAndy said:


> The DC lights by themselves will have little impact on the generator. Issues that may cause you concern are any of the major AC loads that could cause problems.
> 
> Fridge - in auto will switch to AC when you start the GEN
> Water heater - make sure the AC element is off
> ...


Yes, I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure I had the fridge set to GAS only, and not in the Auto position.

In the summer of 2010 during some short Genny use, I noticed it was kind of spitting a bit... to the point where I had to pull the choke out slightly to get it to settle into a nice humming run noise. I did the normal maintenance on it, but stopped short of pulling the carb jet and replacing/cleaning it. It was still spitting. I made a heavy mixture of seafoam and gas and let it run a couple of tanks of gas while I was at an outdoor event that needed some A/C power. It really started running and humming normally again after the first tank. I ran it dry before storing it for the winter. So, when I was getting it ready for this years trip, I let a decent mixture of gas and Sea Foam run through before packing it. So, I *think* it is in fine operating shape. However, this is a valid point point to note and I'll see how the year end maintenance schedule will be looking like and perhaps I can manually pull and clean the carb anyway. I ran around around 30 gallons of gas through over the long weekend.

Thanks Dan, and Andy, for the suggestions.

The only other thought I had was that maybe I have a 15K A/C unit. I think most of the Outback Sydney 5th wheels come with 15K units. I don't think I do, because I think I'd be able to find it more clearly documented, if it was... and it would have likely kept up a little better in the heat.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I run my gen very little and can run most of the season on one tank and have been known not the run the tank dry before putting it into storage. So I start the spring with old gas. At the rate you are using yours I would actually lean toward the spark plug before the carb but then a weekend of tinkering you could check everything.


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## luverofpeanuts (Mar 9, 2010)

luverofpeanuts said:


> Yes, I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure I had the fridge set to GAS only, and not in the Auto position.


I happened to be out near the camper this weekend and stopped in and looked at the black vent and the fridge setting.

!!! The fridge WAS set to auto, so every time I ran the genny, it probably switched to electric, and may also have contributed to the infrequent overload condition. So, the Genny gets some respect back since I was a dummy.

I looked at the black tank vent again, and saw why the black duct tape was there. The black PVC vent pipe had about 1.5 triangular piece that cracked and Gilligan just duct taped it back into place and wrapped a few layers around. <sigh> Since I'm over a year and out of warranty I'm guessing it's fruitless to ask Keystone about it. I'm not sure it's that big of deal anyway. I left the black duct tape wrapped, but pulled the triangular piece off for now and replaced the cap. I have some time to determine what my solution will be... either leave as is and shave a little off the height the PVC comes up, or cobble a replacement vent pipe.


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## Traveling Tek (Oct 15, 2010)

what about those cyclone vents they sell at wally world and camping world? The ones that are supposed to pull the odor up out the vent while driving? Anyone tried those? Do they work?


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