# Anti-Freeze



## vtxbud (Apr 4, 2009)

What do you do to winterize. Do you leave anti-freeze in the water lines or do you blow the A/F out once you have circulated it through and filled the drains?

I have always blown out the lines once I have pumped the fluid in and all the water is out.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Depending on how harsh of a winter you get, I think there are 2 options

1 - Blow out the lines (open all valves) and then pour RV Antifreeze in the drain traps

2 - RV Antifreeze in the lines all winter. This will replace the water and not allow for expansion that water does when it freezes.

...by all mean, never pour the antifreeze in your holding tank and use the pump to fill the lines...use a bypass kit.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

My procedure is maybe excessive, but I like it.

#1 Blow out the lines with compressed air.
#2 Pump antifreeze into all lines and ensure enough runs into traps and the waste tanks. Pour remainder of the gallon into the drained fresh water tank.
#3 Open faucets and low point drains to relieve pressure on antifreezed lines
#4 Close valves and wait for spring


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

My procedure is exactly like Nathan's. It may be a bit of overkill, but when antifreeze is $2.25 a gallon, I consider it cheap insurance. If you have a black or gray tank cleaner (ie: Quickie Flush) be sure to blow that out as well.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Nathan said:


> My procedure is maybe excessive, but I like it.
> 
> #1 Blow out the lines with compressed air.
> #2 Pump antifreeze into all lines and ensure enough runs into traps and the waste tanks. Pour remainder of the gallon into the drained fresh water tank.
> ...


I do exactly the same, but I leave the low point drains uncapped and all faucet valves open. Even the anti-freeze expands at extremely cold temps, and in Alberta, your winters get pretty cold. (We had a week of -20F last winter, here in central Illinois, so I'm glad I kept things open. A friend of mine did not and had a couple leaks this spring - including replacing his plastic kitchen faucets.)

The anti-freeze replaces the water, so leaving the caps off and the valves open is double insurance. And like Chris says, it's cheap insurance. Might as well double-up for free!

Just my $.02

Mike


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

I do drain out the pink stuff from the lines back in to the gallon jugs before storage. No need to waste it, i reuse it next year. We need to remember, the pink stuff does turn to slush in cold temps. the colder, the slushier. so removing it from the lines does not hurt anything...

i dont put anything in my fresh tank.


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## Doxie-Doglover-Too (Jan 25, 2007)

QUIT saying the "W" word! you'll jinx us!


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## vtxbud (Apr 4, 2009)

Thanks everyone for the input. Much appreciated.


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## joy-rick (Jan 27, 2008)

I don't understand why I shouldn't pour antifreeze into my fresh water holding tank. Other than that it might take more antifreeze than other methods it seems like any way that you can pump it into the lines is as good as any other. Please tell me before it freezes here in Detroit.

Rick


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## Doxie-Doglover-Too (Jan 25, 2007)

joy-rick said:


> I don't understand why I shouldn't pour antifreeze into my fresh water holding tank. Other than that it might take more antifreeze than other methods it seems like any way that you can pump it into the lines is as good as any other. Please tell me before it freezes here in Detroit.
> 
> Rick


How you gonna clean it all out of the fresh water tank to the point you know it's safe for you and your family?







. As it is, I don't drink my fresh water water or city connected water even with the water filter on the trailer, my insides are super sensitive so I take jugs of water for drinking. I can't imagine drinking from the fresh water tank after antifreeze had been in it. Just my .02


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## Camping Fan (Dec 18, 2005)

joy-rick said:


> I don't understand why I shouldn't pour antifreeze into my fresh water holding tank. Other than that it might take more antifreeze than other methods it seems like any way that you can pump it into the lines is as good as any other. Please tell me before it freezes here in Detroit.
> 
> Rick


If you pour the antifreeze into the fresh water holding tank, it will take a *LOT* more antifreeze to do the job than if you use a bypass kit at the pump. The problem is the fresh water tank is pretty wide, so the antifreeze gets spread out in a thin layer on the bottom of the tank. It will take several gallons of antifreeze to get to a level where you will be able to pump it through the water lines. If you use a bypass kit at the pump, you'll need 3 gallons max for all the water lines and traps.

The other consideration is that although the RV antifreeze is non-toxic, it is very difficult to completely rinse it out of your holding tank, and will leave a bad taste in your water.


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## crunchman12002 (Jul 26, 2009)

Camping Fan said:


> I don't understand why I shouldn't pour antifreeze into my fresh water holding tank. Other than that it might take more antifreeze than other methods it seems like any way that you can pump it into the lines is as good as any other. Please tell me before it freezes here in Detroit.
> 
> Rick


If you pour the antifreeze into the fresh water holding tank, it will take a *LOT* more antifreeze to do the job than if you use a bypass kit at the pump. The problem is the fresh water tank is pretty wide, so the antifreeze gets spread out in a thin layer on the bottom of the tank. It will take several gallons of antifreeze to get to a level where you will be able to pump it through the water lines. If you use a bypass kit at the pump, you'll need 3 gallons max for all the water lines and traps.

The other consideration is that although the RV antifreeze is non-toxic, it is very difficult to completely rinse it out of your holding tank, and will leave a bad taste in your water.
[/quote]
This will be my first winter with our trailer so please excuse the newbie questions. 
How can the 3 tanks get winterized without anti freeze in them? Even if the gauges say empty, I am sure there is still liquid in them? Is there drain plugs on the tanks other than the one on the hot water tank? Not to worry about a little water in the bottom of fresh tank because of little or no ice expansion? Do you put some anti freeze down the drains and toilet to get it into the gray and black or is the flush with by pass kit enough? If I run the fresh dry by the gauge is it really empty?
I am sure it will be in a post if I search here but thought I would ask while the topic is active.
Thanks guys and girls,
crunchman


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

joy-rick said:


> I don't understand why I shouldn't pour antifreeze into my fresh water holding tank. Other than that it might take more antifreeze than other methods it seems like any way that you can pump it into the lines is as good as any other. Please tell me before it freezes here in Detroit.
> 
> Rick


Rick, there's no reason you can't. As the other's indicated, it simply takes more antifreeze. You also need to make sure the fresh water tank is completely empty prior to doing this so you don't pump a highly dilluted solution into your lines.

I think that Campingworld has the kits pretty resonably ($10-$12). If you are paying $4/gallon for the pink, you'll probably break even in 1 season. May be time to make a trip to Belleville.








It took me 2 gallons to winterize the OB with the winterizing kit installed.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

crunchman12002 said:


> This will be my first winter with our trailer so please excuse the newbie questions.
> How can the 3 tanks get winterized without anti freeze in them? Even if the gauges say empty, I am sure there is still liquid in them? Is there drain plugs on the tanks other than the one on the hot water tank? Not to worry about a little water in the bottom of fresh tank because of little or no ice expansion? Do you put some anti freeze down the drains and toilet to get it into the gray and black or is the flush with by pass kit enough? If I run the fresh dry by the gauge is it really empty?
> I am sure it will be in a post if I search here but thought I would ask while the topic is active.
> Thanks guys and girls,
> crunchman


Gosh, I forgot to mention the WH.







Put that in bypass before doing all of this and pull the drain plug.

As for the tanks, obviously drain them first. If you are using antifreeze (Pink RV kind only







), you'll hook up to have the pump suck it out of the jug. Well, once you get it flowing through the system, run each faucet until you see a good steady flow of pink (initially it might be dilluted with some water, wait for the deep pink color). This will flow down the drain winterizing the trap and mixing with any remaining water in the tank. Same with the toilet, flush until pink is fully running into the bowl. As for the fresh water tank, I always dump some in just in case.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Here's just one more list for winterizing. If you do not have or do not want to buy a winterizing kit that will allow you to suck the pink stuff straight from the jug using the pump.

Here's what I do:
> drain water from system - open all faucets and uncap low-point drain lines - drain water heater
> ensure black and gray tanks are empty
> replace drain caps and close faucets after draining is complete
> bypass the HW heater
> remove any filter cartridges from in-line water filters (if you have any)
> remove the shower hose from the tub spout
> remove the spray head from the end of the shower hose
> remove the flexible water line from the pump inlet
> connect the shower hose to the pump inlet (same threads)
> insert open end of hose into jug of pink stuff (ou will need 2-3 gallons of pink stuff, so watch level in jug and replace when needed)
> turn ON pump
> open faucets (both hot and cold) one at a time, starting with the faucet furthest from the pump
> allow pink stuff to flow down drains (this will fill your traps and put some pink stuff in your holding tanks)
> be sure to winterize outside sink/shower
> remove screen and press IN check valve at the city water fill/hose connection (stand to one side, or you'll get wet/pink)
> turn OFF pump when complete, then replace shower hose/sprayer and re-connect fresh tank suction line to pump inlet
> open faucets and collect any pink stuff for next year - leave faucets OPEN during winter storage
> uncap low point drain lines and collect pink stuff that drains out
> open gray/black tank valves, collect and dispose of what comes out (flush down toilet in your house)
> leave gray/black tank valves open and leave dump tube uncapped (you can stuff some steel wool in the opening if you're worried aout critters taking up residence in there - I've never had that problem)
> remove battery and place in garage, but not on concrete floor (OK if you put a board beneath it)(trickle charge battery at least once each month)
> ensure propane tanks are shut OFF
> remove all food stuffs, canned goods, etc (no food for critters and cans/bottles can freeze/break)
> remove all bed linens and blankets/paper products/towels, etc (no nesting materials for critters)
> place wooden boards beneath tires (insulates them from cold ground/concrete/gravel)
> cover the tires (UV rays are present all year round)
> if you have Max-Aire roof vent covers, leave roof vents OPEN through winter (prevents musty smell, come spring)

I put the drain caps and the HW heater drain plug in the kitchen sink, where I'll easily locate them the next spring.

Hope this helps! And again, this what I do. Others may have more to add or a different way of doing things, but I've never had any problems doing things this way.

(I also put Bounce dryer sheets beneah all mattresses, in every cupboard, on every cusion, in every corner. This helps keep critters at bay, also, although there is controversy over whether this helps. Again, I've never had critter trouble when I do this. And REGULAR Bounce, no fancy scents.)

Mike


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Scoutr2 said:


> > remove battery and place in garage, but not on concrete floor (OK if you put a board beneath it)(trickle charge battery at least once each month)


The concrete floor and battery issue is no longer valid. Today's batteries can sit on a concrete floor with no problems.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Drain the fresh water tank and leave the drain open for the winter. 1 gallon of water in a 30 gallon tank will do no harm if it freezes. Leaving the valve open will ensure no water is in the shut off. Basically the same for the holding tanks but leave the valves closed, at least the black one for obvious reasons


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## Jim - Chesapeake VA (Aug 10, 2009)

Scoutr2 said:


> Here's just one more list for winterizing. If you do not have or do not want to buy a winterizing kit that will allow you to suck the pink stuff straight from the jug using the pump.
> 
> Here's what I do:
> > drain water from system - open all faucets and uncap low-point drain lines - drain water heater
> ...


Mike - thanks for all the great information! I used it all today and it worked great!

Jim


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