# Will Yukon Xl Tow 28rsds



## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

we have an 06 yukon xl denali 6.0, 3.73. I am new to TT's and want to make sure that I buy a quality TT, Outback looks good, and that our Denali can tow the 28rsds safely and without abusing the TV. Am am new to outbackers, but from what I have read, there is a great amount of help and knowledge here. I am excited to be here. Live in PDX, OR. Thanks in advance for any advice.


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

action Hi Rman45 action

Welcome to Outbackers!
If you need information on Outbacks, you've definitely come to the right place








I can't be of much help in the TV department, but there will be lots of good advice from others coming your way.

Good luck and have a happy 4th
Dawn sunny


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Well you maybe close to the max once the TT is packed and loaded
And with the wheel base I would be concerned about sway
But with a good hitch like the Hemsley you may be ok
A lot depends on where you plan on traveling like big mountains may give you a little trouble
Just my $.02
Others will give their opinions

Don


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Welcome to the forum









If it's a 1500 series yukon xl, I'd say not enough truck for that sized trailer. If it's a 2500 series then you should be fine.

Mike


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

The Yukon XL is just another name for a Suburban , correct? The 6.0 is a good engine. What specs does the owners manuel give for towing?

John


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

I have done some reasearch and this is what I have got. TV: GVWR 7200#, GVW 6725# , GTWR 7250#.. TT: GVWR 7760#, GVW 6770#.. TV & TT combined: GVW w/ TT 7199# Gross combined weight 13,459#. Our Denali is the long wheel base, so I am not too concerned about sway. It has the auto leveling system which should help a little, and I have had exhaust, cold air intake, and have programed it for towing with Superchips. The three combined should add about 90hp, so it should be in the 425hp range. It is the 1500 series, and I know people pull heavier TT's than this, but the question is safely, legally, and sensibly. I really appriciate the responses so far. I cna't say anything about this group at outbackers that you don't already know, but thanks again. I am sure I will make an intelligent decision when it's all said and done, with your help.


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## wolfwood (Sep 19, 2005)

rman45 said:


> I am new to TT's and want to make sure that I buy a quality TT, Outback looks good,
> [snapback]126810[/snapback]​


THE BEST!!!! Even the dealers - who are also trying to sell other models - say the Outbacks are the best built, with the least issues, backed by the best of the manufacturers.



rman45 said:


> Am am new to outbackers, but from what I have read, there is a great amount of help and knowledge here. [snapback]126810[/snapback]​


You WILL be amazed at the level of knowledge, respect, assistance, and friendships available on this site!!!! Welcome to the tribe!!!!



rman45 said:


> Live in PDX, OR. [snapback]126810[/snapback]​
























No wonder I don't see any other OBs on the road - YOU ALL LIVE IN PORTLAND!!!! One of our most knowledgeable members is in your back yard (yeah ! you might want to check...'cuz he might REALLY be standing out there). I'm sure PDX_Doug will jump in here soon.

Welcome aboard! Good luck with your search - you've certainly come to the right place !!!


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

[quote name='rman45' date='Jun 30 2006, 07:15 AM']
I have done some reasearch and this is what I have got. TV: GVWR 7200#, GVW 6725# , GTWR 7250#.. TT: GVWR 7760#, GVW 6770#.. TV & TT combined: GVW w/ TT 7199# Gross combined weight 13,459#. Our Denali is the long wheel base, so I am not too concerned about sway. It has the auto leveling system which should help a little, and I have had exhaust, cold air intake, and have programed it for towing with Superchips. The three combined should add about 90hp, so it should be in the 425hp range. It is the 1500 series, and I know people pull heavier TT's than this, but the question is safely, legally, and sensibly. I really appriciate the responses so far. I cna't say anything about this group at outbackers that you don't already know, but thanks again. I am sure I will make an intelligent decision when it's all said and done, with your help.

The numbers all are within the factory specs. I have not had one sales person, truck or RV, tell me that I was out of range in weight or tow vehicle. In fact, the Jayco salesman and service advisor both confirmed,"no problem" I saw them deliver to a new rv'er in an "00 1500 suburban, a trailer that has a dry weight of about 6600 lbs. I am sure he is over his limits by a ways. Sales people don't seem to know or care that they are styffing someone into too much trailer. My outback sales person is also telling me that I should be fine, but is on the conservative side, he said. I guess if the numbers work, I am not in any danger, maybe a little slow in the hills though. I just thought about this, the Denali's are an AWD, any comments about that?


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## campmg (Dec 24, 2005)

Welcome to the site. You're smart enough to ask the right questions so I'm sure you'll make a good educated decision. I can't say yes or no but feel you may be close to your limits with the Yukon XL. I was close with a regular Yukon's GCVWR (TV and Trailer) pulling a 25RSS. I was within limits but my shorter wheelbase kept me from pulling anything larger. With a 28, you're probably ok with the size trailer if you get a quality hitch. It's more of the weights that I would be concerned with. You also need to make sure you can stop the whole thing. Invest in a good Prodigy brake controller. Good luck with whatever you choose.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

action *Welcome to Outbackers, rman45!* action 
Glad you found us.









You are very smart for doing your research first. Good on you! I think in most ways your TV will be fine. The long wheelbase is suitable, and you sure have the power with the mods you have made. My main concern, is the 1/2 ton chassis. I can't say too much, as I pull my 28RS-DS with a 1/2 ton chassis myself, and have no problems in our Northwest environment. But still, there can be issues with max. load, brakes, etc.

I will throw out a couple of things you need to consider...

1. The dealer will tell you that your Yugo can pull the biggest fifth wheel out there if they think it will help make the sale, so you need to take that with a grain of salt. In fairness, and if you are dealing locally with Curtis, they seem to be more honest than most in this regard.

2. Your Yukons maximum tow rating is based on a stripped down vehicle with no options, just a driver and a full tank of gas. Everything you add beyond that (Options, passengers, cargo, hitch weight, etc.) must be deducted from that to get a true towing capacity.

3. The published weights on the Outbacks are notoriously low, and also based on a stripped down model. By the time you add the awning, batteries, propane, water, etc., you will see a lot more weight. I always recommend that you base your decision on the Outbacks GVWR.

So, good luck on your search. We are here if you have any questions. Please don't be 'shy'!









Also (shamelss plug), if you happen to get your Outback by September, we would love to meet you at the Fall Pacific Northwest Outbackers Rally up the gorge! Even if you don't have it by then, drop by and say Hi to the greatest group of people you will ever meet! action

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## TexasHunts (Jul 31, 2005)

I have a similar setup but with the 5.3l in a Burb. I'm very close to my max. With the 6.0L and the engine MODS you've done, I think you'll be ok.

BTW, Exactly what engine Mods did you do? brands etc.


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

Superchips programer tuned for optimum towing capicity and power, changes shift pattern slightly to increase torque.

Air-Raid Cold air intake breather. ( Not noisy at all. Notice a nice improvement in power)

Gibson exhaust from the caralytic converter to the tip.

Overall between 90-100 added horspower. I can honestly feel a marked increase in power, and have notice better fuel economy.


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## TexasHunts (Jul 31, 2005)

rman45 said:


> Superchips programer tuned for optimum towing capicity and power, changes shift pattern slightly to increase torque.
> 
> Air-Raid Cold air intake breather. ( Not noisy at all. Notice a nice improvement in power)
> 
> ...


Do these changes do anything to warranties?


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Chances are you will be very close to if not over the GVW which is not good. All the mods won't increase the GVW of you yukon and I'd also be concerned about extra stress on the transmission and AWD system.

Anybody have some actual weights on the trailer he's looking at?

Can you clarify your weight numbers a bit?



> TV: GVWR 7200#, GVW 6725# , GTWR 7250#.. TT: GVWR 7760#, GVW 6770#.. TV & TT combined: GVW w/ TT 7199# Gross combined weight 13,459#.


I see the GVW of the yukon is 7200, is the 6725 an actual weight?

What's the GTWR? GVWR of the trailer is 7760 I guess? GVW 6770?

My brain needs a little clarity there









Mike


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

camping479 said:


> Chances are you will be very close to if not over the GVW which is not good. All the mods won't increase the GVW of you yukon and I'd also be concerned about extra stress on the transmission and AWD system.
> 
> Anybody have some actual weights on the trailer he's looking at?
> 
> ...


Denali weight loaded before hitching trailer is 6725# ( leaves 525# for hitch weight)
GTWR is what is available to tow according to factory recommendations
Adding 460# of tongue weight brings Denali GVW to 7185#

Travel Trailer should weigh around 6770# loaded before hitching up to Denali.
My goal is to keep the Denali's GVW under 7200# 
Maybe the 750# equalizer bars will help a litlle in transfering the weight off the rear axle.

Does that help make sense?


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Makes sense now, thanks.

I'm pretty sure that listed tongue weight of 460 is off by probably 300 lbs once the trailer is loaded with a battery, lp, etc. For a trailer that weighs around 7k the tongue weight should be around 700+ to make it stable. Tongue weight should be at least 10% with 12 or even 15 being good. That's going to put you several hundred pounds over your GVWR. Unfortunately it looks like you will be pushing your denali to its limits. We are right at the GVW with our yukon towing our 21RS. 1/2 ton trucks always seem to exceed the GVW before reaching their GCWR or tow ratings.

Good luck with your decision

Mike


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## stapless (Feb 20, 2005)

camping479 said:


> Makes sense now, thanks.
> 
> I'm pretty sure that listed tongue weight of 460 is off by probably 300 lbs once the trailer is loaded with a battery, lp, etc. For a trailer that weighs around 7k the tongue weight should be around 700+ to make it stable. Tongue weight should be at least 10% with 12 or even 15 being good. That's going to put you several hundred pounds over your GVWR. Unfortunately it looks like you will be pushing your denali to its limits. We are right at the GVW with our yukon towing our 21RS. 1/2 ton trucks always seem to exceed the GVW before reaching their GCWR or tow ratings.
> 
> ...


well stated. i will say that our 3/4 ton 'burb with the 6.0 pulls our TT very nicely, especially with the HA. I need to get it to the scales, though. I had weighed it on my 1/2 ton silverado and should be ok unless the 'burb is alot heavier.

scott


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

I wnat to thank everyone who has given their time and energy in helping me come to a conclusion. I ran across a great website that has an easy to use Towing Capacity Worksheet. I ran the numbers a number of ways, and at worst I will be at 95.29% of my GCVWR. I will have a minimum amount of additional TV payload available, but over 1000# additional weight available in the TT. I know that maxing out is not desirable or recommended, but I think that with good towing equipment will help tow this trailer more comfortably. I think I am comfortable coming in under weight in every catagory. Enough so to go ahead with the purchase of the 28rsds. My wife and kids love it. Again thank you all for good advice. Even those who advise against will remind me to pay attention to what is going on and tow responsibly. I don't think it will be too much for the Denali. Towing a 4500# hybrid would be nearly effortless. I think the Denali's are a good truck capable of performing under these conditions.

I am going to go to the scales with another trailer tomorrow to prove a point to an RV sales person, who doesn't believe tongue weight adds to the GVW of the TV. They are trying to sell me a trailer that is beautiful, but over 1000# too heavy for the Denali. He said "You have plenty of power to tow this 8000#trailer, your Denali is rated at 8,600# according to the manufacurer. They always play conservative"

I wonder how many people are towing way too much trailer and are unappy with therr choice of TV or TT. Just a thought. It seems to be pretty simple to them

I will keep you all posted as to the performance of our trip next week


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

You're going to love that Outback, rman!

I will keep an eye out for you on the highways and byways around here. BTW, if you are looking for a storage lot, Bunches - out in Hillsboro - is a pretty nice facility. We store ours out there for $85/Mo. covered.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

So I go to the scales with my current Hybrid trailer. When I get there, I unhook the 750 weight distribution bars(WD), pull off the scale and look at the tongue weight of my little Hybrid trailer. 1000lbs! I was shocked. I never checked the weight as I trusted the service dept. at the dealer. So I hook it all back up, weighed each axle and saw it was way unbalanced. I jacked the trailer back up, raised the WD bars by three chain links, lowered the jack, backed up a ways and pulled back onto the scale. It was much better balanced, though not perfect. I did this two times to make sure of everything I was doing,(thankfully nobody else was there waiting) Iwent home, crunched the numbers, and using the Towing Capacity Worksheet I found online, discovered some good facts about my rear axle weight concerns.

I had been told a number of different theories about WD bars, do they move weight, add weight, do nothing? The answer depended on what they thought I wanted to hear so they could get a sale. I found that once the WD bars were "active", they displace about 16% of the tongue weight directly off or from the rear axle. About 66% goes to the trailer axles, and 33% goes to the front axle of the TV.

The interesting thing is that I will go from a gross weight gain of 840lbs on the rear axle with the lighter Hybrid, to only 465lb weight gain on the rear axle with the new 28RSDS. I will







my rear axle weight by over 250 lbs. It may not sound like a lot, but when I am trying to keep my TV as close to 90% of GVWR's, it's exciting. I have figured my cargo and payload liberally, so I am excited to see just where I come in when we get going next week. I was also amazed at the diference in power (maybe just psycological) the truck had going home. It just felt like it was hooking up better. Not sure if that is possible or not.

I want to say again, thanks to all the OBers. You have given me good advice, confirmation, support and awareness. I think we are ging to be just fine with the 28RSDS. Special shout out to PDX_Doug, thanks man!


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

So I go to the scales with my current Hybrid trailer. When I get there, I unhook the 750 weight distribution bars(WD), pull off the scale and look at the tongue weight of my little Hybrid trailer. 1000lbs! I was shocked. I never checked the weight as I trusted the service dept. at the dealer. So I hook it all back up, weighed each axle and saw it was way unbalanced. I jacked the trailer back up, raised the WD bars by three chain links, lowered the jack, backed up a ways and pulled back onto the scale. It was much better balanced, though not perfect. I did this two times to make sure of everything I was doing,(thankfully nobody else was there waiting) Iwent home, crunched the numbers, and using the Towing Capacity Worksheet I found online, discovered some good facts about my rear axle weight concerns.

I had been told a number of different theories about WD bars, do they move weight, add weight, do nothing? The answer depended on what they thought I wanted to hear so they could get a sale. I found that once the WD bars were "active", they displace about 16% of the tongue weight directly off or from the rear axle. About 66% goes to the trailer axles, and 33% goes to the front axle of the TV.

The interesting thing is that I will go from a gross weight gain of 840lbs on the rear axle with the lighter Hybrid, to only 465lb weight gain on the rear axle with the new 28RSDS. I will lighten my rear axle weight by over 250 lbs. It may not sound like a lot, but when I am trying to keep my TV as close to 90% of GVWR's, it's exciting. I have figured my cargo and payload liberally, so I am excited to see just where I come in when we get going next week. I was also amazed at the diference in power (maybe just psycological) the truck had going home. It just felt like it was hooking up better. Not sure if that is possible or not.

I want to say again, thanks to all the OBers. You have given me good advice, confirmation, support and awareness. I think we are ging to be just fine with the 28RSDS. Special shout out to PDX_Doug, thanks man!


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Just another in a long line of examples why the dealer should not be trusted to setup your weight distribution correctly.







This is definately one of those _*'If you want it done right, do it yourself'*_ things!









Glad we could be of help, rman.









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

That is for sure Doug

Don


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

HootBob said:


> That is for sure Doug
> 
> Don
> [snapback]127325[/snapback]​


You know what I'm talking about!

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Mdovey (Jun 30, 2006)

[quote name='PDX_Doug' date='Jul 1 2006, 11:08 PM']
Just another in a long line of examples why the dealer should not be trusted to setup your weight distribution correctly.







This is definately one of those _*'If you want it done right, do it yourself'*_ things!









Doug and everyone-
Help! Where on earth do you start to learn how to do it all yourself? My hubby and I have always been campers--and complete idiots about vehicles. We're so confused now that we're thinking seriously of backing away from buying a trailer. (Sob) We fell in love with a 27 RLS, and thought we wouldn't have any problems with our tow vehicle, a Yukon XL 1500, 5.3 L, 3.73 axle, but now I think the 27, and maybe even the 26 if we could find one, is too heavy. I've looked at the worksheets, but am lost. Can anyone offer a rule of thumb--for the dumb







? Thanks, Mary


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

action *Welcome to Outbackers, Mdovey!* action 
Boy am I glad you guys found us!









_"Help! Where on earth do you start to learn how to do it all yourself?"_
That's easy... RIGHT HERE!







You will not find a better source of information, expertise and acceptance than right here.

The Outback 27RLS is a beautiful trailer, and I would not discount the ability of your Yukon to handle it. But, truthfully, we need a little more information. If you could tell us more about where you are, plan to tow, etc. Things like mountains and wind can have a huge effect, not to mention how you plan to camp (Light, with minimal stuff... or do you like to load 'er up). One way or another, we will be able to help you find an Outback that is a perfect match!









After that, we will be here to help you with each challenge that comes up. I have not found anything yet, that these guys can't solve with ease and humor. Just take a deep breath, don't be 'shy', and ask lot's of questions.









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Welcome Mdovey to Outbackers
Like Doug has already said more info would be great
And We are all here to help everyone that needs it
Just ask and you will have it

Don


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

Mdovey, 
I have a little experience towing trailers as far as driving, but the technical numbers were very confusing to me especially when salespeople were involved. We have the 1500 Yukon XL, and my concern was not so much could the vehicle tow it the weight of the trailer, but would the vehicle be "overweight" especially the rear axle. The last thing we had to figure out was what the tongue weight was going to be when the trailer was loaded and on the Yukon with the weight distribution bars buckled. I was really confused at first, but if you keep gathering information from good folks like here, it'll all start to come together then you can make a good decision. Start with what your Yukon's towing capacity, front and rear axle limits, and hitch capability. Then choose your trailer. Your Yukon's Gross Vehicle Weight Rating should between 7000 and 7200 lbs. This means that after fuel, passengers luggage, etc., and AFTER the trailer is on the hitch and the WD bars are on, your truck shouldn't weight more than 7000-7200lbs and the rear axle should not weigh any more than 3750lbs or so. I tried to stay within 90% of the GVWR for our truck, I am about 94%, but I figured my weight a little more for friends coming along or just growing kids. Once you have these numbers, it makes it real easy to choose which trailer to look at. I am no expert on length, but I think you'd be fine with either. Another thing to consider to help enjoy tour new trailer is some easy modifications to your Yukon to increase horsepower. For less than $1000 you can add a noticeable amount, and perhaps even help with fuel economy. You won't get better mileage than you do now towing a trailer, but maybe not do as bad as it could be without the modifications. My opinion is you could tow either trialer, as long as you can be patient up the hills, providing you have the tow package on the Yukon. I assume you do. 
Send in some more information on the Yukon and the trailer weights, I bet you'll have this all figured out within a day or two. 
And please don't trust a salesperson's opinion, check here with the towing and weight figures first to bust or confirm their opinion, like "Opinion Busters"

look forward to hearing from you. Take your time, and good luck!

rman45


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## Mdovey (Jun 30, 2006)

[quote name='rman45' date='Jul 2 2006, 11:20 PM']
but the technical numbers were very confusing to me especially when salespeople were involved.

Hi all-
I couldn't agree with that more! But you guys are wonderful, so I'll try to supply the little I know:
first of all, we're in New Jersey (flat!) but camp regularly in the Adirondacks and Vermont (steep and hilly). Last year we did a trip to Illinois, and next year would like to venture further west. We're big folks to begin with, not overweight, but hubby's 6'5" and two good size 14 year old boys (son and nephew) who travel with us. (On rare occasions, my older son (6'3", 240) and daughter (5'8" and willowy) may come along.) We carry two kayaks,, or a kayak and a canoe, and tend to overpack clothes and food (at least I do.)

Now, here's the numbers I'm unsteady about:
Our Yukon's (an XL 4wheel drive model) GVWR is 7200 lbs, with 3600 in the front and 1814 in the back. (I got this info from the door sticker and the dealer confirmed it was correct.) When I spoke to the dealer, I didn't know to ask about curb weight (Is that the GVW i see in the formulas??) or payload. (On GMC's web site I discovered a similar truck that had a curb weight listed as 5210.)

The dealer had to explain the owner's manual info to me, so here goes: with our 5.3L, we have an axle ratio of 3.73 and a max trailer wt. of 7,500 pounds (strangely, he said that in checking our VIN number, our car listed as 7,900)/ The GCWR, however, was the same as the owner's guide, 13,000 lbs.

The trailer we're looking at, a Sydney 27, is 6,350--I'm assuming that's the dry weight that the saleswoman took from the cabinet door. (The brochure says the dry weight is 5900 and GVWR is 8000; the hitch is 465.)

I confess complete ignorance at this point. We have a hitch on our Yukon, but know we'd need the bigger one, sway bars, etc. I don't know if we have a tow package on ours; we do have a tow/haul control on the steering column. I'll call the dealer again (boy do I feel like an idiot!).

Since we most often do "dry" camping, we liked the fact that the Sydney had room for two batteries, making it heavier I'd imagine. And, because the state parks in NY and VT often have water problems, I was hoping to carry our own which would increase the weight too.

There aren't any 26 Outbacks around us to know what their numbers are for sure, I just saw the one on ebay that started our whole Outback quest.

Whatever help you can be, I will be grateful. Thanks,
Mary


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## Highlander96 (Mar 1, 2005)

Mdovey said:


> rman45 said:
> 
> 
> > but the technical numbers were very confusing to me especially when salespeople were involved.
> ...


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## Mdovey (Jun 30, 2006)

Tim, 
I really am dense about all this. A couple of questions:

You said: At first look, you are probably be way over on you capacities.

--So you think we are way over with our Yukon?

You said: I would use the worst case numbers and look at the GVW of each vehicle. 8200 on your truck and 8000 on the trailer. 16,000 combined is 3/4 ton territory.

--I don't know what the GVW of my Yukon is for sure, or even what GVW really means! If it's curb weight, then the curb weight for a 5210. Where do the 8200 and 8000 numbers come from?

You said: Please don't beleive the advertised weights. Especially the dry weights.
--This is why I'm so concerned about learning all of this, and wondering if we should bag the idea of buying an Outback until we're ready to replace the Yukon...but that won't be for years.









You said: Good Luck and Happy Outbacking!
--Thank You and I hope so!!

[snapback]127608[/snapback]​[/quote]


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## Travelers (Apr 6, 2006)

rman45 said:


> I wnat to thank everyone who has given their time and energy in helping me come to a conclusion. I ran across a great website that has an easy to use Towing Capacity Worksheet. I ran the numbers a number of ways, and at worst I will be at 95.29% of my GCVWR. I will have a minimum amount of additional TV payload available, but over 1000# additional weight available in the TT. I know that maxing out is not desirable or recommended, but I think that with good towing equipment will help tow this trailer more comfortably. I think I am comfortable coming in under weight in every catagory. Enough so to go ahead with the purchase of the 28rsds. My wife and kids love it. Again thank you all for good advice. Even those who advise against will remind me to pay attention to what is going on and tow responsibly. I don't think it will be too much for the Denali. Towing a 4500# hybrid would be nearly effortless. I think the Denali's are a good truck capable of performing under these conditions.
> 
> I am going to go to the scales with another trailer tomorrow to prove a point to an RV sales person, who doesn't believe tongue weight adds to the GVW of the TV. They are trying to sell me a trailer that is beautiful, but over 1000# too heavy for the Denali. He said "You have plenty of power to tow this 8000#trailer, your Denali is rated at 8,600# according to the manufacurer. They always play conservative"
> 
> ...


With water tanks empty, propane full, 2 batteries and 200 lbs of gear in the storage compartment our 2006 28rsds has a tongue weight of 1100 lbs. With the weight dist hitch installed (adds another 75 lbs) 975 lbs ends up on the TV rear axle and 200 lbs ends up on the TT axles. I think there are very few 1/2 TV that can safely handle 975 lbs of tongue weight after the TV is full of gas, gear and people. That's why we went to a 3/4 TV. Your're TV power is adequate but I think you will be overloaded on GVW.


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

Thanks for the information Travelers! I will ask them to confirm tongue weight before we go any further. I know that with our trailer now, with 1000lbs tongue weight, I can get the rear axle weighing under 3750lbs loaded. That is with 750 WD bars, and still have some room for more balance to the front axle and trailer axles. But I appriciate your post, it'll make check the weights again.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

rman,

The W/D hitch should easily be able to handle that tounge load. BUt you are going to need more than 750# bars. I have 1,000# on mine, and it works well, but if I had it to do over, I would go with 1,200# bars. But then my Titan is pretty soft in the rear end, so that is part of it. But, you definately want a minimum of 1,000# bars.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Highlander96 (Mar 1, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> rman,
> 
> The W/D hitch should easily be able to handle that tounge load. BUt you are going to need more than 750# bars. I have 1,000# on mine, and it works well, but if I had it to do over, I would go with 1,200# bars. But then my Titan is pretty soft in the rear end, so that is part of it. But, you definately want a minimum of 1,000# bars.
> 
> ...


rman,

Do yourself a favor and get 1200 lb. bars and don't look back. IMHO money well spent!

Happy Outbacking!

Tim


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Highlander96 said:


> rman,
> Do yourself a favor and get 1200 lb. bars and don't look back. IMHO money well spent!
> 
> Happy Outbacking!
> ...


Ditto here

Don


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

> --Mdovey post Today, 05:00 AM
> I don't know what the GVW of my Yukon is for sure, or even what GVW really means! If it's curb weight, then the curb weight for a 5210. Where do the 8200 and 8000 numbers come from?
> 
> You said: Please don't beleive the advertised weights. Especially the dry weights.
> --This is why I'm so concerned about learning all of this, and wondering if we should bag the idea of buying an Outback until we're ready to replace the Yukon...but that won't be for year


The GVW stands for Gross Vehicle Weight. Gross is concidering every person, piece of gear, Kayak/Canoe, food, etc. that would will have in the Yukon. Your Yukon should not weigh any more than this when fully loaded, including the weight of the trailer on the hitch. The dry weight of your Yukon, or Curb Weight, is what the Yukon weighs completley empty of all passengers, water bottles, cd's, magazines, everything. It does include however, a full tank of gas, and other fluid levels. You can this by taking *everything* out of the Yukon, everything that did not come from the factory. Then fill up the tank with fuel, hopefully close to a weigh station, pull onto the scale, then get everybody out of the Yukon and look at the weight. The number should be between 5800lbs and 6000lbs. thats your Curb Weight.

Now go home, get everything and everyone you have in the Yukon when you go on a trip, fill up with fuel again, go back to the scales and weigh each axle seperately, then the whole vehicle. If the Yukon has a total weight of more than 6,600 lbs. you are going to have to really watch how much extra weight the hitch weight of the trailer is going to put on the rear axle of the Yukon. The front and rear axles should be fairly equal. The rear axle should not be over 3400lbs. This would give you 5-600lbs of trailer tongue weight max to add to the rear axle. I would love to see you find a way to get that trailer you want, but you are really getting close to overloading the Yukon. I still think there is a way for you to go here, as I am an optimist. You may need to change your loading habits that include food, toys, clothes, etc. especially in the Yukon.

We are a smaller family, with a combined weight of 630 lbs That gives us a little advantage weight wise in our Yukon. Tim has good advice with the 3/4 ton territory. You may be too close to the limits without the trailer. We'll see though. If you get these unloaded and loaded numbers back to us, we can help you with where to go next.


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

HootBob said:


> Highlander96 said:
> 
> 
> > rman,
> ...


I am glad you all confirmed my thinking. I asked them to include ththe 1200lb bars in my purchase, along with a Reese class 5 hitch and these anti sway things that mount infront of the WD bar saddles and I think down to the end of the WD bars. Do you guys know anything about these. The parts guy tod me they wee superior to the anti sway control that acts on friction. Tell me what you think.

Thanks guys,
rman45


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## ssalois (Jun 19, 2006)

[quote name='TexasHunts' date='Jun 30 2006, 11:29 AM']
I have a similar setup but with the 5.3l in a Burb. I'm very close to my max. With the 6.0L and the engine MODS you've done, I think you'll be ok.

DIDDO. 
I have an 00 burb and the 27rsd( which i believe is almost the same trailer with a diffrent bed set up). I have no problems.







Now i wouldnt exspect to drive 75 or anything or blaze through the rockies.But with the right W/D and sway bar you will be fine.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

rman45 said:


> and these anti sway things that mount infront of the WD bar saddles and I think down to the end of the WD bars. Do you guys know anything about these. The parts guy tod me they wee superior to the anti sway control that acts on friction.


rman,

It's kind of hard to say, from the description you are giving, but it sounds like a Reese DualCam sway control. If that is the case, It is far superior to the standard friction controls, although in your situation I would recommend the Reese DualCam HP (High-Peformance) setup. You really should verify exactly what it is the dealer is trying to give you. Pretty important stuff, these sway controls!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## rman45 (Jun 30, 2006)

rman,

It's kind of hard to say, from the description you are giving, but it sounds like a Reese DualCam sway control. If that is the case, It is far superior to the standard friction controls, although in your situation I would recommend the Reese DualCam HP (High-Peformance) setup. You really should verify exactly what it is the dealer is trying to give you. Pretty important stuff, these sway controls!









Happy Trails, Doug
[snapback]127708[/snapback]​[/quote]

Man, my typing is horrible, sorry for all the typos. That is exactly what they called. I will request the HP setup. What is the difference with the HP setup?


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

rman45 said:


> What is the difference with the HP setup?


The HP is just a heavy duty version of the basic unit. It looks like the operation of it should be smoother as well. I will leave that to the people that actually use one (I'm an Equal-i-zer guy, myself). And of course it's more expensive. It's also, to my eye, the coolest looking sway setup on the market... not that that matters!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Highlander96 (Mar 1, 2005)

Mdovey said:


> Tim,
> I really am dense about all this. A couple of questions:
> 
> You said: At first look, you are probably be way over on you capacities.
> ...


[snapback]127612[/snapback]​[/quote]

My 28RSDS is almost 7000 lbs loaded.

The GVW of your truck is available on the Driver side door sticker of the truck. Check your owners manual and look for the towing specs.

8200 is the Rough number for a 1/2 Burb/Yukon again check your door sticker. 8000 is the GVW for my 28RSDS. I look at the max numbers and work back from there.

It is quite possible you will exceed the GVW of the Yukon before exceeding your trailer weight.

Hope this helps.

Again. Please start a new thread so we can keep track of the topic. It becomes very confusing as we are discussing several different situations in the same thread.

Happy Outbacking!

Tim


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## Mdovey (Jun 30, 2006)

Again. Please start a new thread so we can keep track of the topic. It becomes very confusing as we are discussing several different situations in the same thread.

Wil do, Tim, Thanks!! You guys are the best
Mary


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