# How To Lube Axles



## Mike2 (Jul 14, 2006)

Hello,

I have a 2010 270BH and I need some help lubing the bearings in the axle. We have put 4K miles on it and we are going on a long trip this summer.

Here are a few questions:

1. How do you remove the shiny cover over the wheel hub?
2. Where is the EZ Lube port?
3. What type of grease do you use on these? Is synthetic Mobil 1 OK?
4. Do you need to remove the tires?

Thanks,

Mike


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)




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## Mike2 (Jul 14, 2006)

Thanks for posting.
How do you remove the metal wheel hub cover? I hate to mess it up. Do you use a screwdriver on it?

MIke


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## Blip (Sep 26, 2010)

Mike2 said:


> Thanks for posting.
> How do you remove the metal wheel hub cover? I hate to mess it up. Do you use a screwdriver on it?
> 
> MIke


Mike,
I greased mine already. Mine is a 2011, and it should be the same. The cap is plastic chrome. I used a small flat head. If you look close you will see a very small opening on the edge of the cap. Than it should pop right off.


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## Chuggs (Jun 8, 2010)

Dexter Lube Specs

I'm not sure is AL-KO has the same type of list...but I'm sure anything on the Dexter list would be good stuff to use.

I'm a newbie as far as RV's go...but in the course of reading a lot of information I've come across some concerns that people have about using the E-Z Lube system...

I throw it out there for you to consider. Like I say, I'm not in one camp or another on the subject...just learning myself.

The concern is that pumping grease into the E-Z lube hub could POSSIBLY seep past the rear grease seal. The rear grease seal is a double lipped, spring reinforced seal...which should prevent this from happening...but it's evidently happened on occasion. Leaking grease could contaminate your electric brakes rendering them ineffective.

If you ARE inclined to use the E-Z lube zerk fitting to lube the bearings...some recommend that you raise the tire off the ground and gently spin it while adding grease. This might allow the grease to pass thru to the front of the hub toward the axle nut with less resistance, thus preventing a rear seal breach.

On a lightweight boat trailer without brakes...I wouldn't hesitate to pump that thing smack full of grease using the E-Z lube port.

I'm leaning toward hand packing my bearings on my RV...for a number of reasons.
1) I don't have to worry as much about a rear seal leak contaminating my brakes.
2) I get to visually inspect my Bearings.
3) I get to replace the rear seal.
4) I get to visually inspect my Brake components.

Again, I've only put about 7,000 miles on my 5th wheel...and haven't got the experience to tell you for sure which way is better, etc... Maybe a more experienced member will chime in on the subject as well.

All the best,


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## bama29fan (Jun 22, 2009)

Chuggs said:


> Dexter Lube Specs
> 
> I'm not sure is AL-KO has the same type of list...but I'm sure anything on the Dexter list would be good stuff to use.
> 
> ...


this happend to me. followed everything like Dexter says....jacked up each wheel and spun while adding grease. the seals on the backsode failed and runined the linings.


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## RDS (Jul 20, 2011)

I've been a ASE master auto tech for 26 years and using the grease fittings has never caused me any problems with any of my trailers. Just stop pumping in new grease as soon as you see grease coming out of the outer bearing. The cavity is now full and all is well.

Most seal failures are from people putting in to much grease.


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

Ive used the EZ lube ports on my current RV and on my last one as well and have not had any trouble. They are very handy. If the seals are good on the rear of the lube system they shouldn't let grease seep past. When you pump the grease through the bearings, it should pump easy. It should have to build up a fair amount of pressure to push past the seals I would think, if they are good. My initial guess on the ones that people have had fail was that the seals were already bad (possibly overheated from lack of lube, dried out, or just old) but you never know...maybe just installed poorly from the factory.

As for grease, synthetic is fine, or regular lithium complex grease is also fine. The problem with greases is that mixing different greases can cause problems as the thickeners (i.e lithium complex) are actually like a soap. Its the thickeners that are sometimes not compatible with each other, not the actual lube in the grease. You dont have to use a certain brand necessarily, but if you go with a lithium complex grease, keep using it. Same with a synthetic. If you do need to change grease types, purge enough grease through it to get all of the old grease out of the system.


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