# Harley Bottoms Out



## HogHauler

Hello, I'm the newest and latest Outbacker that can't get my Harley into the garage. I have read all the comments in the past and they have all been more helpful than the dealer has been with me. My question is has anyone used the product Race Ramp to solve this problem? I can buy a light weight 8 inch lift /ramp for under $200. Any info or other solutions would be helpful. Thanks


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## marker

I guess you could figure out how to make it work, but then you will not likely be able to touch down with your feet at a critical time (especially unloading) and with a heavey bike, you may end up dropping it.

I think all or a combination of the following, which has been mentioned by others will get you into the garage. Once in though, will it be too long? If so you have to then figure out how to shift the rear end over so you can close the door.

Suggestions.

1) With the trailer disconnected from the Tow Vehicle, lower the jack until the trailer is low at the front. Then block the ramp at the same angle as the trailer to the ground so you do not bend the ramp/door.

2) Add a ramp extension to the top of the ramp/door. I have a small one, but there are pics in the gallery today that show a full width ramp extension all dressed up with non-slip coating. Great job.

3) Add a ramp extension under the checkerplate portion of the ramp. This will raise the back end a bit so the frame will not bottom out. While I have not done this, I often have someone put a short pice of 2X6 in front of the rear wheel once I get the front wheel inside.

4) At the critical time, I take all my weight off the bike to raise it up a bit which also helps. It is also easier if I have some of the bike accessories off as well. Surprising how much some of it weighs.

5) Giving proper credit to the prvious owner, he made a test guage out of some 3/4" copper pipe in the shape of an elongated U. The length is the same as the axel length of the bike and the height is the frame or touch point on the bike. I can now quickly see if I have enough clearance before I ride it up the ramp.

Here is a link to some pics on how I load the bike. Note that it is counter intuitive to swing the wheel to the right for final positioning, but it works. I do not use a chock, but use a small board to ensure the wheel does not slide out sideways. I strap it down at 4 corners and off the kickstand. It has never moved at all in my trips too and from Florida from Ontario.

clicky

Good luck.

Gary


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## HogHauler

HogHauler said:


> Hello, I'm the newest and latest Outbacker that can't get my Harley into the garage. I have read all the comments in the past and they have all been more helpful than the dealer has been with me. My question is has anyone used the product Race Ramp to solve this problem? I can buy a light weight 8 inch lift /ramp for under $200. Any info or other solutions would be helpful. Thanks


Thanks for all this info and pics. I will try all of these. Does just extending the top diammond plate bridge help. I was just thinking of that last night.


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## marker

HogHauler said:


> Hello, I'm the newest and latest Outbacker that can't get my Harley into the garage. I have read all the comments in the past and they have all been more helpful than the dealer has been with me. My question is has anyone used the product Race Ramp to solve this problem? I can buy a light weight 8 inch lift /ramp for under $200. Any info or other solutions would be helpful. Thanks


Thanks for all this info and pics. I will try all of these. Does just extending the top diammond plate bridge help. I was just thinking of that last night.
[/quote]

I think it is more important to have the whole ramp and a reasonable angle, but you cna only tell from a few tests.


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## forceten

You need to have the ramp more level. Did your roo model come with the two angle brackets that go on the outside of the ramp to raise it up more and the extra ramp flap at the end?

i had assumed all roo's came stock with that but after reading lots of posts only half of us seem to have that setup from the manufacturer. I'm thinking the 5th wheel roo's did and the pull alongs don't


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## HogHauler

forceten said:


> You need to have the ramp more level. Did your roo model come with the two angle brackets that go on the outside of the ramp to raise it up more and the extra ramp flap at the end?
> 
> i had assumed all roo's came stock with that but after reading lots of posts only half of us seem to have that setup from the manufacturer. I'm thinking the 5th wheel roo's did and the pull alongs don't


No, it did not come with them. Is that a option I can still buy?


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## forceten

I don't understand why keystone skimped on some roos and not others. I would bottom out on my light bikes if they didn't include the extenda ramp and brackets.

No clue if you can buy the stuff separate but maybe if you call keystone they will sell ya the hardware.......

I have pics in my gallery the other day on my roo and here at the end of this thread so you can see what I'm talking about. Took pictures of everything but the 2 angle brackets in place

http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19343&st=30


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## Gary

HogHauler said:


> Hello, I'm the newest and latest Outbacker that can't get my Harley into the garage. I have read all the comments in the past and they have all been more helpful than the dealer has been with me. My question is has anyone used the product Race Ramp to solve this problem? I can buy a light weight 8 inch lift /ramp for under $200. Any info or other solutions would be helpful. Thanks


Make or buy a full width ramp.
The new 23ORS and 28ORS have the axles fliped over to bring the height of the trailer up.
I had a 2007 23KRS and had to put 2- 2x6 under the ramp so I didn't bottom out.
Now with the new 28ORS I made a ramp extention that is 12" high. Haven't put my harley in the tt yet, but the angle looks good.
I was going to make it out of 3/4" plywood (still might) but was scared it would bend. I made it out of aluminum.
I have a pic of it on the driveway but not on the tt.
Gary


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## HogHauler

Gary said:


> Hello, I'm the newest and latest Outbacker that can't get my Harley into the garage. I have read all the comments in the past and they have all been more helpful than the dealer has been with me. My question is has anyone used the product Race Ramp to solve this problem? I can buy a light weight 8 inch lift /ramp for under $200. Any info or other solutions would be helpful. Thanks


Make or buy a full width ramp.
The new 23ORS and 28ORS have the axles fliped over to bring the height of the trailer up.
I had a 2007 23KRS and had to put 2- 2x6 under the ramp so I didn't bottom out.
Now with the new 28ORS I made a ramp extention that is 12" high. Haven't put my harley in the tt yet, but the angle looks good.
I was going to make it out of 3/4" plywood (still might) but was scared it would bend. I made it out of aluminum.
I have a pic of it on the driveway but not on the tt.
Gary
Have you tried your harley yet? I raised mine up 12+ inches tonight and still could not get it in or out. In fact I dropped the bike off the ramp. I am at the point right now I going to try to return the trailer back to the dealer.
[/quote]


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## HogHauler

So Here is where i'M at with my problem. The problem has not yet been solved and has gotten worse, since I dropped my harley Last night trying to get it into the garage of the 230rs. I bought an 8 inch "Race Ramp" extension and lift system and that didn't work. After blocking that ramp up to over 12+ inches I got the bike in, but could not get it out, because of a piece of the frame catching on the diamond plate bridge. I spoke again with my dealership and now I need to take pictures of what I have done so they can send them to Keystone. I also have been calling other Keystone dealers between Maine and California and every service manager all said that this is the first time they have heard of this problem. So I'm asking again of any other solutions that may work. Please Help!!! My first trip is in 2 weeks


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## Gary

HogHauler said:


> So Here is where i'M at with my problem. The problem has not yet been solved and has gotten worse, since I dropped my harley Last night trying to get it into the garage of the 230rs. I bought an 8 inch "Race Ramp" extension and lift system and that didn't work. After blocking that ramp up to over 12+ inches I got the bike in, but could not get it out, because of a piece of the frame catching on the diamond plate bridge. I spoke again with my dealership and now I need to take pictures of what I have done so they can send them to Keystone. I also have been calling other Keystone dealers between Maine and California and every service manager all said that this is the first time they have heard of this problem. So I'm asking again of any other solutions that may work. Please Help!!! My first trip is in 2 weeks


Lower your trailer down on the jack as low as it can go.
This will help.
Has your bike been lowered?
Gary


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## Gary

marker said:


> I guess you could figure out how to make it work, but then you will not likely be able to touch down with your feet at a critical time (especially unloading) and with a heavey bike, you may end up dropping it.
> 
> I think all or a combination of the following, which has been mentioned by others will get you into the garage. Once in though, will it be too long? If so you have to then figure out how to shift the rear end over so you can close the door.
> 
> Suggestions.
> 
> 1) With the trailer disconnected from the Tow Vehicle, lower the jack until the trailer is low at the front. Then block the ramp at the same angle as the trailer to the ground so you do not bend the ramp/door.
> 
> 2) Add a ramp extension to the top of the ramp/door. I have a small one, but there are pics in the gallery today that show a full width ramp extension all dressed up with non-slip coating. Great job.
> 
> 3) Add a ramp extension under the checkerplate portion of the ramp. This will raise the back end a bit so the frame will not bottom out. While I have not done this, I often have someone put a short pice of 2X6 in front of the rear wheel once I get the front wheel inside.
> 
> 4) At the critical time, I take all my weight off the bike to raise it up a bit which also helps. It is also easier if I have some of the bike accessories off as well. Surprising how much some of it weighs.
> 
> 5) Giving proper credit to the prvious owner, he made a test guage out of some 3/4" copper pipe in the shape of an elongated U. The length is the same as the axel length of the bike and the height is the frame or touch point on the bike. I can now quickly see if I have enough clearance before I ride it up the ramp.
> 
> Here is a link to some pics on how I load the bike. Note that it is counter intuitive to swing the wheel to the right for final positioning, but it works. I do not use a chock, but use a small board to ensure the wheel does not slide out sideways. I strap it down at 4 corners and off the kickstand. It has never moved at all in my trips too and from Florida from Ontario.
> 
> clicky
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Gary


Your tt is a lot lower than the new ones.
Ramp angle way steeper.
Angle causes bike to bottom out.

Is your ramp extention made out of ordinary 3/4" plywood.
What is the width and length of your ramp extention?
Gary


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## HogHauler

Gary said:


> So Here is where i'M at with my problem. The problem has not yet been solved and has gotten worse, since I dropped my harley Last night trying to get it into the garage of the 230rs. I bought an 8 inch "Race Ramp" extension and lift system and that didn't work. After blocking that ramp up to over 12+ inches I got the bike in, but could not get it out, because of a piece of the frame catching on the diamond plate bridge. I spoke again with my dealership and now I need to take pictures of what I have done so they can send them to Keystone. I also have been calling other Keystone dealers between Maine and California and every service manager all said that this is the first time they have heard of this problem. So I'm asking again of any other solutions that may work. Please Help!!! My first trip is in 2 weeks


Lower your trailer down on the jack as low as it can go.
This will help.
Has your bike been lowered?
Gary
[/quote]

The bike has not been lowered. I will try again with the trailer lowered. I think I'm going to try 2 stabilizer jacks as my lift up to 12-15 inches, then try a nice long and wide motorcycle ramp. My dealer has finally started to work with me and is working with Keystone. I don't know how that will work out though.


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## Hanson

I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


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## CamperAndy

This may be a silly question but have you tried to walk it in? I don't know, maybe your clutch is really grabby but you should be able to walk it in from the side, this takes the weight off and should help you control it so you do not hit an weird angle and drop it.


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## HogHauler

Hanson said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


Are you lowering the front tongue all the way down then using the stabilizers? Not only is it rubbing, but stopping me completly.


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## marker

Gary said:


> I guess you could figure out how to make it work, but then you will not likely be able to touch down with your feet at a critical time (especially unloading) and with a heavey bike, you may end up dropping it.
> 
> I think all or a combination of the following, which has been mentioned by others will get you into the garage. Once in though, will it be too long? If so you have to then figure out how to shift the rear end over so you can close the door.
> 
> Suggestions.
> 
> 1) With the trailer disconnected from the Tow Vehicle, lower the jack until the trailer is low at the front. Then block the ramp at the same angle as the trailer to the ground so you do not bend the ramp/door.
> 
> 2) Add a ramp extension to the top of the ramp/door. I have a small one, but there are pics in the gallery today that show a full width ramp extension all dressed up with non-slip coating. Great job.
> 
> 3) Add a ramp extension under the checkerplate portion of the ramp. This will raise the back end a bit so the frame will not bottom out. While I have not done this, I often have someone put a short pice of 2X6 in front of the rear wheel once I get the front wheel inside.
> 
> 4) At the critical time, I take all my weight off the bike to raise it up a bit which also helps. It is also easier if I have some of the bike accessories off as well. Surprising how much some of it weighs.
> 
> 5) Giving proper credit to the prvious owner, he made a test guage out of some 3/4" copper pipe in the shape of an elongated U. The length is the same as the axel length of the bike and the height is the frame or touch point on the bike. I can now quickly see if I have enough clearance before I ride it up the ramp.
> 
> Here is a link to some pics on how I load the bike. Note that it is counter intuitive to swing the wheel to the right for final positioning, but it works. I do not use a chock, but use a small board to ensure the wheel does not slide out sideways. I strap it down at 4 corners and off the kickstand. It has never moved at all in my trips too and from Florida from Ontario.
> 
> clicky
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Gary


Your tt is a lot lower than the new ones.
Not sure that it is? The wheels have been upgraded to 15" and the trailer is sitting in the gutter of the street.

Ramp angle way steeper.
Not sure what you mean here. Yours is steeper or mine?

Angle causes bike to bottom out.
That is why the lowering of the trailer tounge is so important. It eliminates the need for a bunch of ramp accessories. For me, I hate hauling extra stuff around.

Is your ramp extention made out of ordinary 3/4" plywood. Yes

What is the width and length of your ramp extention? 
Not sure, as the previous owner did it. If I was to do it again I would make it wider so I can go into the trailer at more of an angle.
Gary
[/quote]


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## Hanson

HogHauler said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


Are you lowering the front tongue all the way down then using the stabilizers? Not only is it rubbing, but stopping me completly.
[/quote]

No, not all the time. I did not read the beginning of the thread, your camper may sit higher than mine. My roadie has not been lowered? Has yours, Ive seen alot of these dropeed an inch and I can see that making a huge difference. I also would not recommend walking along side the bike, these are too heavy and if it tips you have a whole new issues to deal with. I also try to keep as much weight off my seat when going into the trailer. I would look first into your bike and see if its stock height.


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## JimBK17

Hanson said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


The ramp door on the '09 28KRS is almost 11 inches lower than the ramp door on the '10-'11 280RS models. With the 280RS, it is 35" from the ground to the floor of the garage and the ramp is 73" long. The Keystone parts list to add the 'factory' extension to the ramp door is included in this thread Ramp Parts List. I have ordered the parts through Bradford's RV, Brockton MA and the total was just over $400. Although someone notes that $400 is "not worth it and a DIY mod is in order", when I'm spending $23k+ on a brand new camper, I have no problem ordering the factory parts to extend the ramp rather than saving a couple bucks to build my own. After all, it's my $17k Harley on the line if my DIY mod doesn't work out!

Unfortunately, the parts for my ramp extension have arrived, but I'm still waiting on my TT. Supposedly, it left the factory Wednesday and should be arriving in MA sometime early next week. Once I have everything put together and I am certain it actually solves the problem, I will post pics and/or video.


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## Hanson

JimBK17 said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


The ramp door on the '09 28KRS is almost 11 inches lower than the ramp door on the '10-'11 280RS models. With the 280RS, it is 35" from the ground to the floor of the garage and the ramp is 73" long. The Keystone parts list to add the 'factory' extension to the ramp door is included in this thread Ramp Parts List. I have ordered the parts through Bradford's RV, Brockton MA and the total was just over $400. Although someone notes that $400 is "not worth it and a DIY mod is in order", when I'm spending $23k+ on a brand new camper, I have no problem ordering the factory parts to extend the ramp rather than saving a couple bucks to build my own. After all, it's my $17k Harley on the line if my DIY mod doesn't work out!

Unfortunately, the parts for my ramp extension have arrived, but I'm still waiting on my TT. Supposedly, it left the factory Wednesday and should be arriving in MA sometime early next week. Once I have everything put together and I am certain it actually solves the problem, I will post pics and/or video.
[/quote]
So, what caused the change in height, Axel Flip? If that's really true, I will forget about trading for a new one. Ive been looking at the new ones since the rear bed is configured different. But if the floor of the camper is now a foot higher than mine, I see too many negatives compared to a new bed layout. Thanks for the input, you just saved me thousands!!!


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## Gary

CamperAndy said:


> This may be a silly question but have you tried to walk it in? I don't know, maybe your clutch is really grabby but you should be able to walk it in from the side, this takes the weight off and should help you control it so you do not hit an weird angle and drop it.


I would not recomend walking it up or down standing on the side of the bike.
Lessen the ramp angle is the only way to load your bike without dragging the bottom of your bike at the top of the ramp.
Gary


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## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


The ramp door on the '09 28KRS is almost 11 inches lower than the ramp door on the '10-'11 280RS models. With the 280RS, it is 35" from the ground to the floor of the garage and the ramp is 73" long. The Keystone parts list to add the 'factory' extension to the ramp door is included in this thread Ramp Parts List. I have ordered the parts through Bradford's RV, Brockton MA and the total was just over $400. Although someone notes that $400 is "not worth it and a DIY mod is in order", when I'm spending $23k+ on a brand new camper, I have no problem ordering the factory parts to extend the ramp rather than saving a couple bucks to build my own. After all, it's my $17k Harley on the line if my DIY mod doesn't work out!

Unfortunately, the parts for my ramp extension have arrived, but I'm still waiting on my TT. Supposedly, it left the factory Wednesday and should be arriving in MA sometime early next week. Once I have everything put together and I am certain it actually solves the problem, I will post pics and/or video.
[/quote]

I would like to know the ramp extention length width and thickness. Is it just made out of 3/4" plywood.
Take some pictures of the details used to lift the door.
Thank You
Gary


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## JimBK17

Gary said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


The ramp door on the '09 28KRS is almost 11 inches lower than the ramp door on the '10-'11 280RS models. With the 280RS, it is 35" from the ground to the floor of the garage and the ramp is 73" long. The Keystone parts list to add the 'factory' extension to the ramp door is included in this thread Ramp Parts List. I have ordered the parts through Bradford's RV, Brockton MA and the total was just over $400. Although someone notes that $400 is "not worth it and a DIY mod is in order", when I'm spending $23k+ on a brand new camper, I have no problem ordering the factory parts to extend the ramp rather than saving a couple bucks to build my own. After all, it's my $17k Harley on the line if my DIY mod doesn't work out!

Unfortunately, the parts for my ramp extension have arrived, but I'm still waiting on my TT. Supposedly, it left the factory Wednesday and should be arriving in MA sometime early next week. Once I have everything put together and I am certain it actually solves the problem, I will post pics and/or video.
[/quote]

I would like to know the ramp extention length width and thickness. Is it just made out of 3/4" plywood.
Take some pictures of the details used to lift the door.
Thank You
Gary
[/quote]

Extension ramp is 48" wide, 36" long and it appears to be made out of 3/4 plywood that's been dipped in the same finish as the surface of the standard ramp. It's got a full width aluminum hinge. I'm not the least bit concerned about the ability of 3/4 plywood to support the harley, but I also had no reservations about landing my 2400 pound plane on 12 inches of ice at Alton Bay, NH this winter. As noted earlier, I will post pictures once I've got my hands on the actual TT and had a chance to install the extension and verify that it will in fact solve our problem.


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## HogHauler

Ladies and Gentleman....I have done it!!! The Road King goes in, The Road King comes out...no scraping, bottoming out or coming off the ramp. So the final modification, pictures will come today. The 230RS door is 35 inches off the ground when perfectly level and the ramp is 78 inches long...No way is a Harley going up into the garage without any modification. Thanks Keystone for letting me know... Anyways, relying on the fact that my bike may have been lowered (not sure, I bought it second hand but the problems I was having I think it may have been) Ground clearance on the bike is 3.5 inches,with a 63.5 inch wheelbase, I needed to raise the end of the ramp at least 15 inches. I am using 2 jack stand stablizers in which I can adjust the height on different ground levels. Then I purchased a Bifold (I rec. tri fold so you have footing coming down)ATV ramp with at least 1000 lb weight rating and bridged the camper ramp to the ground. I have lined the 2 sides of the ATV ramp with nice strips of rubber for more weight distribution and grip. OH yeah, I ended up having to lower the front of the ramp all the way down to the ground. that actually lowers the ramp from 35 inches down to 28 inches, so another 7 inch decrease in angle. It takes a while to get this done, and you have to go very slow with a second person helping, but it is a safe way for me and the bike. It will get easier the more we put it in and out. Thanks for everybodies help. It has taken many peoples suggestions and experiences, but we got it in! Thanks again!


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## Harleymick

Just got my aluminum bi-fold ramps this weekend. Plan on using two lifts to raise the ramp about 12 inches, then apply then new ramp. Hope this gets my Electraglide into the 230RS without bottoming out.....


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## Keith

Here is what I made.
Works good with a full dresser HD.
Keith

By the way it does come apart so it is easy to store.
NO screws or bolts. just slip fits, except for 2 carage bolts that just drop into holes at the top corners of the ramp surface, to keep the top from sliding off.


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## dunk

Keith said:


> Here is what I made.
> Works good with a full dresser HD.
> Keith
> 
> By the way it does come apart so it is easy to store.
> NO screws or bolts. just slip fits, except for 2 carage bolts that just drop into holes at the top corners of the ramp surface, to keep the top from sliding off.


do you have the dimensions for the wood? just height and length will do. looks good. i may consider doing something like this!


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## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> I have a 09 280krs? and when I load my road king I don't really have any problems at all. As I cross into the trailer, I will at times rub especially when the front is not lowered some. I have no added ramp or anthing, but I do place a couple of 2x's in front of the ramp to get rid if the 2 inch lip.


The ramp door on the '09 28KRS is almost 11 inches lower than the ramp door on the '10-'11 280RS models. With the 280RS, it is 35" from the ground to the floor of the garage and the ramp is 73" long. The Keystone parts list to add the 'factory' extension to the ramp door is included in this thread Ramp Parts List. I have ordered the parts through Bradford's RV, Brockton MA and the total was just over $400. Although someone notes that $400 is "not worth it and a DIY mod is in order", when I'm spending $23k+ on a brand new camper, I have no problem ordering the factory parts to extend the ramp rather than saving a couple bucks to build my own. After all, it's my $17k Harley on the line if my DIY mod doesn't work out!

Unfortunately, the parts for my ramp extension have arrived, but I'm still waiting on my TT. Supposedly, it left the factory Wednesday and should be arriving in MA sometime early next week. Once I have everything put together and I am certain it actually solves the problem, I will post pics and/or video.
[/quote]

I would like to know the ramp extention length width and thickness. Is it just made out of 3/4" plywood.
Take some pictures of the details used to lift the door.
Thank You
Gary
[/quote]

Extension ramp is 48" wide, 36" long and it appears to be made out of 3/4 plywood that's been dipped in the same finish as the surface of the standard ramp. It's got a full width aluminum hinge. I'm not the least bit concerned about the ability of 3/4 plywood to support the harley, but I also had no reservations about landing my 2400 pound plane on 12 inches of ice at Alton Bay, NH this winter. As noted earlier, I will post pictures once I've got my hands on the actual TT and had a chance to install the extension and verify that it will in fact solve our problem.
[/quote]

Do you have any pics yet.
I would like to see the parts mounted on the door that raise the ramp up off the ground.
Thanks Gary


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## JimBK17

I finally finished restoring my basement after the floods and was able to spend some time playing with my outback today... 
I bought the parts listed in the Ramp Door Parts listing. These did make the difference and I am able to run the Ultra Classic right into the trailer with no problem.

If I were to do it over, I would not buy the springs (part 222113). Even with the ramp extension installed, the door does not need the lift assist springs and they won't work on the new outback without some serious modification to the hange on the ramp door. I also would not buy the factory door. Instead, I would buy the hinge, part 216163 and a 4'x4' piece of 3/4 plywood. The extra foot would be a plus. As it is, I am considering turning the 4'x3' extension I have so I have the 4' of added length to the ramp.

So, the parts list becomes two of each of the following:
222339 support bracket $4.41 each 
222807 bracket $10.53 each
222340 extension tube $26.84 each
222968 bumpers $3.36 each
and one hinge:
246163 hinge $72.38

Plus a sheet of 4'x4' 3/4 plywood.

I posted pictures of my setup, including the bike inside the outback to give an idea of what there are for clearances here. Fitting the Ultra Classic requires that the rear end be slid over once the bike's in the camper. It's possible to do this manually, but I think I'm going to pick up a positioning jack, such as this one to make the job that much easier. The next part of my project will be securing the wheel stop and adding two new D-ring tie downs. I'll get started on that during the baby's afternoon nap.

One additional note: If you buy the parts as listed in the other thread, you do not need the hinge if you purchase the factory door. The door comes with the hinge pre-installed. I have a spare hinge available that I'll sell for $60 +shipping if anyone is interested.


----------



## marker

Wow, that really is a tight fit.

While my bike is much lighter, I do not use a chock at all and just strap it down given most of the force on the bike will be on accelerating and braking. This leaves me more space for the bike. I ride in close to the left door frame and at the last few inches crank the bars hard to the right, which give a few more inches and (at least for me) I don't have to haul over the bike rear end.

I think you may be able to accomplish the same thing by angleing your chock more to the side wall. Also, I removed the front drop down bed to get even more room, but that may not be an option for you.

I do like your larger flip down ramp extension. I think I will make mine longer as well.

Great job.

Keep the shinny side up!

Gary


----------



## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> I finally finished restoring my basement after the floods and was able to spend some time playing with my outback today...
> I bought the parts listed in the Ramp Door Parts listing. These did make the difference and I am able to run the Ultra Classic right into the trailer with no problem.
> 
> If I were to do it over, I would not buy the springs (part 222113). Even with the ramp extension installed, the door does not need the lift assist springs and they won't work on the new outback without some serious modification to the hange on the ramp door. I also would not buy the factory door. Instead, I would buy the hinge, part 216163 and a 4'x4' piece of 3/4 plywood. The extra foot would be a plus. As it is, I am considering turning the 4'x3' extension I have so I have the 4' of added length to the ramp.
> 
> So, the parts list becomes two of each of the following:
> 222339 support bracket $4.41 each
> 222807 bracket $10.53 each
> 222340 extension tube $26.84 each
> 222968 bumpers $3.36 each
> and one hinge:
> 246163 hinge $72.38
> 
> Plus a sheet of 4'x4' 3/4 plywood.
> 
> I posted pictures of my setup, including the bike inside the outback to give an idea of what there are for clearances here. Fitting the Ultra Classic requires that the rear end be slid over once the bike's in the camper. It's possible to do this manually, but I think I'm going to pick up a positioning jack, such as this one to make the job that much easier. The next part of my project will be securing the wheel stop and adding two new D-ring tie downs. I'll get started on that during the baby's afternoon nap.
> 
> One additional note: If you buy the parts as listed in the other thread, you do not need the hinge if you purchase the factory door. The door comes with the hinge pre-installed. I have a spare hinge available that I'll sell for $60 +shipping if anyone is interested.


The only way to load a bike is with the extention.
It should come standard on every outback toyhauler.
When you drive up the extention, does the weight of the bike bend it down?
I made my ramp extention with aluminum grate, but I was thinking the plywood would be lighter.
I still have not put my bike in the tt yet.
I know it will fit because I had it in my 2007 23KRS.
Gary


----------



## Mary

JimBK17 said:


> I finally finished restoring my basement after the floods and was able to spend some time playing with my outback today...
> I bought the parts listed in the Ramp Door Parts listing. These did make the difference and I am able to run the Ultra Classic right into the trailer with no problem.
> 
> If I were to do it over, I would not buy the springs (part 222113). Even with the ramp extension installed, the door does not need the lift assist springs and they won't work on the new outback without some serious modification to the hange on the ramp door. I also would not buy the factory door. Instead, I would buy the hinge, part 216163 and a 4'x4' piece of 3/4 plywood. The extra foot would be a plus. As it is, I am considering turning the 4'x3' extension I have so I have the 4' of added length to the ramp.
> 
> So, the parts list becomes two of each of the following:
> 222339 support bracket $4.41 each
> 222807 bracket $10.53 each
> 222340 extension tube $26.84 each
> 222968 bumpers $3.36 each
> and one hinge:
> 246163 hinge $72.38
> 
> Plus a sheet of 4'x4' 3/4 plywood.
> 
> I posted pictures of my setup, including the bike inside the outback to give an idea of what there are for clearances here. Fitting the Ultra Classic requires that the rear end be slid over once the bike's in the camper. It's possible to do this manually, but I think I'm going to pick up a positioning jack, such as this one to make the job that much easier. The next part of my project will be securing the wheel stop and adding two new D-ring tie downs. I'll get started on that during the baby's afternoon nap.
> 
> One additional note: If you buy the parts as listed in the other thread, you do not need the hinge if you purchase the factory door. The door comes with the hinge pre-installed. I have a spare hinge available that I'll sell for $60 +shipping if anyone is interested.


Is that hinge still available?
Mary


----------



## JimBK17

Gary said:


> I finally finished restoring my basement after the floods and was able to spend some time playing with my outback today...
> I bought the parts listed in the Ramp Door Parts listing. These did make the difference and I am able to run the Ultra Classic right into the trailer with no problem.
> 
> If I were to do it over, I would not buy the springs (part 222113). Even with the ramp extension installed, the door does not need the lift assist springs and they won't work on the new outback without some serious modification to the hange on the ramp door. I also would not buy the factory door. Instead, I would buy the hinge, part 216163 and a 4'x4' piece of 3/4 plywood. The extra foot would be a plus. As it is, I am considering turning the 4'x3' extension I have so I have the 4' of added length to the ramp.
> 
> So, the parts list becomes two of each of the following:
> 222339 support bracket $4.41 each
> 222807 bracket $10.53 each
> 222340 extension tube $26.84 each
> 222968 bumpers $3.36 each
> and one hinge:
> 246163 hinge $72.38
> 
> Plus a sheet of 4'x4' 3/4 plywood.
> 
> I posted pictures of my setup, including the bike inside the outback to give an idea of what there are for clearances here. Fitting the Ultra Classic requires that the rear end be slid over once the bike's in the camper. It's possible to do this manually, but I think I'm going to pick up a positioning jack, such as this one to make the job that much easier. The next part of my project will be securing the wheel stop and adding two new D-ring tie downs. I'll get started on that during the baby's afternoon nap.
> 
> One additional note: If you buy the parts as listed in the other thread, you do not need the hinge if you purchase the factory door. The door comes with the hinge pre-installed. I have a spare hinge available that I'll sell for $60 +shipping if anyone is interested.


The only way to load a bike is with the extention.
It should come standard on every outback toyhauler.
When you drive up the extention, does the weight of the bike bend it down?
I made my ramp extention with aluminum grate, but I was thinking the plywood would be lighter.
I still have not put my bike in the tt yet.
I know it will fit because I had it in my 2007 23KRS.
Gary
[/quote]

Considering how they have evolved over the last few years, it wouldn't surprise me at all if the ramp extension was standard on the 2012 models...

If by "does the weight of the bike bend it down" you are referring to the end of the ramp, the answer is absolutely not because the end of the ramp was on the ground. The bike (and my 230 pound butt) are also not enough weight to cause the plywood to flex.

Not sure the difference in weight between the plywood and what you've built. The plywood isn't heavy though. I would caution against assumptions such as "I know it will fit because I had it in my 2007 23KRS"! While this is likely to work out for you in this case, it's definitely dangerous to make the assumption since they changed the cargo area dimensions on the 2010's!


----------



## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> I finally finished restoring my basement after the floods and was able to spend some time playing with my outback today...
> I bought the parts listed in the Ramp Door Parts listing. These did make the difference and I am able to run the Ultra Classic right into the trailer with no problem.
> 
> If I were to do it over, I would not buy the springs (part 222113). Even with the ramp extension installed, the door does not need the lift assist springs and they won't work on the new outback without some serious modification to the hange on the ramp door. I also would not buy the factory door. Instead, I would buy the hinge, part 216163 and a 4'x4' piece of 3/4 plywood. The extra foot would be a plus. As it is, I am considering turning the 4'x3' extension I have so I have the 4' of added length to the ramp.
> 
> So, the parts list becomes two of each of the following:
> 222339 support bracket $4.41 each
> 222807 bracket $10.53 each
> 222340 extension tube $26.84 each
> 222968 bumpers $3.36 each
> and one hinge:
> 246163 hinge $72.38
> 
> Plus a sheet of 4'x4' 3/4 plywood.
> 
> I posted pictures of my setup, including the bike inside the outback to give an idea of what there are for clearances here. Fitting the Ultra Classic requires that the rear end be slid over once the bike's in the camper. It's possible to do this manually, but I think I'm going to pick up a positioning jack, such as this one to make the job that much easier. The next part of my project will be securing the wheel stop and adding two new D-ring tie downs. I'll get started on that during the baby's afternoon nap.
> 
> One additional note: If you buy the parts as listed in the other thread, you do not need the hinge if you purchase the factory door. The door comes with the hinge pre-installed. I have a spare hinge available that I'll sell for $60 +shipping if anyone is interested.


The only way to load a bike is with the extention.
It should come standard on every outback toyhauler.
When you drive up the extention, does the weight of the bike bend it down?
I made my ramp extention with aluminum grate, but I was thinking the plywood would be lighter.
I still have not put my bike in the tt yet.
I know it will fit because I had it in my 2007 23KRS.
Gary
[/quote]

Considering how they have evolved over the last few years, it wouldn't surprise me at all if the ramp extension was standard on the 2012 models...

If by "does the weight of the bike bend it down" you are referring to the end of the ramp, the answer is absolutely not because the end of the ramp was on the ground. The bike (and my 230 pound butt) are also not enough weight to cause the plywood to flex.

Not sure the difference in weight between the plywood and what you've built. The plywood isn't heavy though. I would caution against assumptions such as "I know it will fit because I had it in my 2007 23KRS"! While this is likely to work out for you in this case, it's definitely dangerous to make the assumption since they changed the cargo area dimensions on the 2010's!
[/quote]

I am sure the cargo area dimensions are larger than 2007 model.
The plywood would be lighter then the ramp I made, I was scared it would flex,bend then break when I dove up the extention.
If thats all they use, I might change mine to plywood.
Thanks Gary


----------



## Gary

Just asking a favor.
I need to make a ramp like you have.
Can you post a few close up pictures of the hinge and the hinge area with some dimensions.
Looks to me in the pics you have that the plywood is only supported on the top by the hinge.
I bought the bracket that bolts to the trailer door, and made some home made pipe brackets that raise the door.
Thanks Gary


----------



## JimBK17

Gary said:


> Just asking a favor.
> I need to make a ramp like you have.
> Can you post a few close up pictures of the hinge and the hinge area with some dimensions.
> Looks to me in the pics you have that the plywood is only supported on the top by the hinge.
> I bought the bracket that bolts to the trailer door, and made some home made pipe brackets that raise the door.
> Thanks Gary


Hi Gary,

The top of the ramp is supported primarily by the hinge. It is a full width piano style hinge and when the door is open and the extension is in place it is very sturdy. I still have a 'spare' hinge available since the extension I bought came with the hinge preattached but I'd also ordered one. If you want it, you can have the hinge for $40 + exact shipping. I will take some more pictures for you but right now the camper is still covered from the winter and I don't plan on opening it up for another month or so. Once I get it open I will post pictures.


----------



## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> Just asking a favor.
> I need to make a ramp like you have.
> Can you post a few close up pictures of the hinge and the hinge area with some dimensions.
> Looks to me in the pics you have that the plywood is only supported on the top by the hinge.
> I bought the bracket that bolts to the trailer door, and made some home made pipe brackets that raise the door.
> Thanks Gary


Hi Gary,

The top of the ramp is supported primarily by the hinge. It is a full width piano style hinge and when the door is open and the extension is in place it is very sturdy. I still have a 'spare' hinge available since the extension I bought came with the hinge preattached but I'd also ordered one. If you want it, you can have the hinge for $40 + exact shipping. I will take some more pictures for you but right now the camper is still covered from the winter and I don't plan on opening it up for another month or so. Once I get it open I will post pictures.
[/quote]

I would like if you still could take som pics. The hinge area. Not sure how they mount.The plywood is 4 ft wide 3 ft long? How high up do the legs hold up thr ramp?
Thanks Gary


----------



## Gary

JimBK17 said:


> Just asking a favor.
> I need to make a ramp like you have.
> Can you post a few close up pictures of the hinge and the hinge area with some dimensions.
> Looks to me in the pics you have that the plywood is only supported on the top by the hinge.
> I bought the bracket that bolts to the trailer door, and made some home made pipe brackets that raise the door.
> Thanks Gary


Hi Gary,

The top of the ramp is supported primarily by the hinge. It is a full width piano style hinge and when the door is open and the extension is in place it is very sturdy. I still have a 'spare' hinge available since the extension I bought came with the hinge preattached but I'd also ordered one. If you want it, you can have the hinge for $40 + exact shipping. I will take some more pictures for you but right now the camper is still covered from the winter and I don't plan on opening it up for another month or so. Once I get it open I will post pictures.
[/quote]

I would like if you still could take som pics. The hinge area. Not sure how they mount.The plywood is 4 ft wide 3 ft long? How high up do the legs hold up thr ramp?
Thanks Gary


----------



## JimBK17

Gary said:


> Just asking a favor.
> I need to make a ramp like you have.
> Can you post a few close up pictures of the hinge and the hinge area with some dimensions.
> Looks to me in the pics you have that the plywood is only supported on the top by the hinge.
> I bought the bracket that bolts to the trailer door, and made some home made pipe brackets that raise the door.
> Thanks Gary


Hi Gary,

The top of the ramp is supported primarily by the hinge. It is a full width piano style hinge and when the door is open and the extension is in place it is very sturdy. I still have a 'spare' hinge available since the extension I bought came with the hinge preattached but I'd also ordered one. If you want it, you can have the hinge for $40 + exact shipping. I will take some more pictures for you but right now the camper is still covered from the winter and I don't plan on opening it up for another month or so. Once I get it open I will post pictures.
[/quote]

I would like if you still could take som pics. The hinge area. Not sure how they mount.The plywood is 4 ft wide 3 ft long? How high up do the legs hold up thr ramp?
Thanks Gary
[/quote]

I will post some pics. Saturday was the first time I've even opened the ramp door this season and it was in an effort to take a final measurement for D-rings I will be installing. I had a very limited time to get things done before it started raining for the week. Hopefully things will clear up before next weekend. I'm running out of time to make the last few modifications I want to make before hauling the family and the bike to Americade in a June.


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## HogHauler

Hello, It's me again. I started this post a year ago and finally 2 or 3 months into the camping season I finally figured out how to get my Roadking into the 230rs. Not only get it in, but doing it safely by myself. After everybodys ideas here on Outbacker.com, we finally did it. First, my bike has been customized and lowered @1 inch, one reason I was getting hung up. So the process starts like this. I must lower the front of the trailer all the way down then lower all the jacks. Open the ramp door and level it with 2 axel jacks, up 15 inches off the ground. You can see the angle change dramatically already. I went out and bought a nice heavy duty motorcycle loading ramp. ( Bi-fold, 1500 lb capacity, 44" wide x 72 " long. It weighs only 30 lbs.) It has nice finger tips for flush monting on the ramp. I then lock it in with tie straps that came with it. Thats it! Line the bike up to the ramp and I can drive it right in slow and controlled. Coming out, I seat walk it right down using the break. Takes less than 15 min to set up and load the bike. Here is a pic.


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## PITA

HogHauler said:


> Hello, It's me again. I started this post a year ago and finally 2 or 3 months into the camping season I finally figured out how to get my Roadking into the 230rs. Not only get it in, but doing it safely by myself. After everybodys ideas here on Outbacker.com, we finally did it. First, my bike has been customized and lowered @1 inch, one reason I was getting hung up. So the process starts like this. I must lower the front of the trailer all the way down then lower all the jacks. Open the ramp door and level it with 2 axel jacks, up 15 inches off the ground. You can see the angle change dramatically already. I went out and bought a nice heavy duty motorcycle loading ramp. ( Bi-fold, 1500 lb capacity, 44" wide x 72 " long. It weighs only 30 lbs.) It has nice finger tips for flush monting on the ramp. I then lock it in with tie straps that came with it. Thats it! Line the bike up to the ramp and I can drive it right in slow and controlled. Coming out, I seat walk it right down using the break. Takes less than 15 min to set up and load the bike. Here is a pic.
> View attachment 1677


Excellent, thanks for sharing, we got the same bike (mine's a '08 Classic), same trailer, same yr. half ton (mine's a Dodge), and same process for loading (except I use 2 bottle jacks 16'). Works like a charm. Can't help but think it's the ideal bike/truck/trailer set up going without spending really stupid $$.

See you out there.


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## JimBK17

HogHauler said:


> Hello, It's me again. I started this post a year ago and finally 2 or 3 months into the camping season I finally figured out how to get my Roadking into the 230rs. Not only get it in, but doing it safely by myself. After everybodys ideas here on Outbacker.com, we finally did it. First, my bike has been customized and lowered @1 inch, one reason I was getting hung up. So the process starts like this. I must lower the front of the trailer all the way down then lower all the jacks. Open the ramp door and level it with 2 axel jacks, up 15 inches off the ground. You can see the angle change dramatically already. I went out and bought a nice heavy duty motorcycle loading ramp. ( Bi-fold, 1500 lb capacity, 44" wide x 72 " long. It weighs only 30 lbs.) It has nice finger tips for flush monting on the ramp. I then lock it in with tie straps that came with it. Thats it! Line the bike up to the ramp and I can drive it right in slow and controlled. Coming out, I seat walk it right down using the break. Takes less than 15 min to set up and load the bike. Here is a pic.
> View attachment 1677


I've said it on this forum before and I'll say it again here: Your setup works for you, great. I own a pair of bifold ramps and jacks and I considered this as an option, but in the end decided I'd rather spend ~$200 and do it right, with factory parts for roughly the same money it would cost someone who didn't already have the ramps and jacks on hand. Plus, when I'm not loading the bike, all I have to deal with is the two support brackets that attach to the door, weigh less than 32 ounces each and store easily under the front wardrobe closet in the trailer. Where do you store your jack stands and folding ramps when they're not in use? I'm pretty sure they don't tuck away nicely in the camper! To each his own though. I personally don't want to be the one calling the insurance company and having to explain to them how the bike and/or the bike and camper got screwed up as I was going in or out and either the ramp or one of the jackstands shifted and the bike went down. About $200 in parts to do something I know cannot fail that way makes more sense to me than paying the $500 deductible later.

If it ever stops raining here, I'll open things up and take the pictures and measurements Gary asked for.


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## Gary

HogHauler said:


> Hello, It's me again. I started this post a year ago and finally 2 or 3 months into the camping season I finally figured out how to get my Roadking into the 230rs. Not only get it in, but doing it safely by myself. After everybodys ideas here on Outbacker.com, we finally did it. First, my bike has been customized and lowered @1 inch, one reason I was getting hung up. So the process starts like this. I must lower the front of the trailer all the way down then lower all the jacks. Open the ramp door and level it with 2 axel jacks, up 15 inches off the ground. You can see the angle change dramatically already. I went out and bought a nice heavy duty motorcycle loading ramp. ( Bi-fold, 1500 lb capacity, 44" wide x 72 " long. It weighs only 30 lbs.) It has nice finger tips for flush monting on the ramp. I then lock it in with tie straps that came with it. Thats it! Line the bike up to the ramp and I can drive it right in slow and controlled. Coming out, I seat walk it right down using the break. Takes less than 15 min to set up and load the bike. Here is a pic.
> View attachment 1677


I was just looking at your picture and was thinking, why not make a couple of wooden boxes to set the ramp on. After we could use the boxes under the trailer stabilizer jacks. If we made four we would have one for each jack.

*What do you all think of this idea?









Gary*


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## PITA

I've said it on this forum before and I'll say it again here: Your setup works for you, great. I own a pair of bifold ramps and jacks and I considered this as an option, but in the end decided I'd rather spend ~$200 and do it right, with factory parts for roughly the same money it would cost someone who didn't already have the ramps and jacks on hand. Plus, when I'm not loading the bike, all I have to deal with is the two support brackets that attach to the door, weigh less than 32 ounces each and store easily under the front wardrobe closet in the trailer. Where do you store your jack stands and folding ramps when they're not in use? I'm pretty sure they don't tuck away nicely in the camper! To each his own though. I personally don't want to be the one calling the insurance company and having to explain to them how the bike and/or the bike and camper got screwed up as I was going in or out and either the ramp or one of the jackstands shifted and the bike went down. About $200 in parts to do something I know cannot fail that way makes more sense to me than paying the $500 deductible later.

If it ever stops raining here, I'll open things up and take the pictures and measurements Gary asked for.
[/quote]

Your setup is cleaner, maybe I'll see if I can get those parts, it would save me from hauling the other ramp along, though the bottle jacks I use anyways as extra stabilizers. Thanks for sharing, Maybe I'll see you at Americade, I've gone the past two years but this yr. I'm not 100% sure.


----------



## marker

_I was just looking at your picture and was thinking, why not make a couple of wooden boxes to set the ramp on. After we could use the boxes under the trailer stabilizer jacks. If we made four we would have one for each jack.

What do you all think of this idea?

Gary _

I use small boxes I made out of 2X lumber as cheap bike stands that I use also to support the ramp door.

These stands keep the bike upright for washing or other maintenance etc. YOu put the one stand under the high side, then as you lift the bike verticle, kick the other stand under the low side. Not sure if I explained this well, but it works slick and now I have two uses for them.

My link

Gary S.


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## Rumblers

I started hunting for a ramp extension over a year ago and was told then that the manufacturere had a ramp extension option. They didn't. I've noticed on the Keystone web site that it's not listed in the options and I have yet to hear of anyone who actually has one. If someone does please let me know. In the mean time what i did was buy a set of aluminum ramps that i secure with tie down straps. My bike is a Suzuki C90 bagger that's got a 67 inch wheelbase and is around 8 ft. long in total. Since it won't fit in straight, I have to jack up the bike and spin it at an angle to get the bags to clear where u can shut the door. I tried the lowering of the front end of the trailer method a couple times and it's a huge pain. Anyway my dealer is telling once again that Keystone has an extension now but i have yet to get a call back.


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## JimBK17

Rumblers said:


> I started hunting for a ramp extension over a year ago and was told then that the manufacturere had a ramp extension option. They didn't. I've noticed on the Keystone web site that it's not listed in the options and I have yet to hear of anyone who actually has one. If someone does please let me know. In the mean time what i did was buy a set of aluminum ramps that i secure with tie down straps. My bike is a Suzuki C90 bagger that's got a 67 inch wheelbase and is around 8 ft. long in total. Since it won't fit in straight, I have to jack up the bike and spin it at an angle to get the bags to clear where u can shut the door. I tried the lowering of the front end of the trailer method a couple times and it's a huge pain. Anyway my dealer is telling once again that Keystone has an extension now but i have yet to get a call back.
> View attachment 1679


See post #29 in this thread. I've listed part numbers and a link to pictures I posted of these parts installed on my 280RS. The parts aren't specific to an Outback, they are actually for the Cougar brand by Keystone so you may need to find a Cougar dealer to order them.


----------



## Gary

Well I have decided my homemade aluminum ramp is to heavy and was a pain to store between the spare tire and the back of the tt.
I bought a sheet of plywood and 5 gate hinges for Home Depot.
Bought the two brackets that bolt on the door.
The dealer never sold me the flat plates that get sandwiched between the bracket and the door but I think they look like they are 4" x 6". I will make them myself.
I made the U shaped legs myself out of some stainless steel pipe. Not sure the height of them. I just guessed. 
If you have them on your ramp, how high do they raise the door?









I cut the plywood to 4 ft wide by 4 ft long and coated it with non skid truck box liner with a little sand mixed in.
Ready to install next weekend.
I will post some pics when complete.
Gary


----------



## Vonk

Gary said:


> Well I have decided my homemade aluminum ramp is to heavy and was a pain to store between the spare tire and the back of the tt.
> I bought a sheet of plywood and 5 gate hinges for Home Depot.
> Bought the two brackets that bolt on the door.
> The dealer never sold me the flat plates that get sandwiched between the bracket and the door but I think they look like they are 4" x 6". I will make them myself.
> I made the U shaped legs myself out of some stainless steel pipe. Not sure the height of them. I just guessed.
> If you have them on your ramp, how high do they raise the door?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I cut the plywood to 4 ft wide by 4 ft long and coated it with non skid truck box liner with a little sand mixed in.
> Ready to install next weekend.
> I will post some pics when complete.
> Gary


I used blocks of 2 bl foam shaped as I wanted and then covered them with charcoal carpet. I made 2 blocks and one shaped ramp about 4 ft long. My FatBob rides up it perfectly and runs right into the front wheel chock on the driver side wall of the trailer (230RS). The blocks weight is about 3 bls each.


----------

