# Choosing the right "size" WD hitch



## KampKro (Sep 28, 2004)

What's the conventional wisdom? I'm only going to tow a 25FBS with a total weight of less than 6000# and a tongue weight of less than 600#, but am wondering if instead of buying a WD system rated for 10,000# and 600# respectively, if I wouldn't be better off spending another $20-$60 to move up to a heavier system -- like preparing for a bigger/heavier unit in the future? Or would I be buying a system that is too stiff or something for my current situatiion?

Thanks!
Terry
25FB-S
Prodigy


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

I'm not really sure I understand your question. Are you referring to the spring bars for a WD hitch, or are you speaking of a specific WD hitch.

I have a Reese trunnion WD hitch, with 800# spring bars, and the Dual Cam HP for sway control. I tow a 26RS, which like the 25FBS has a GVRW of 6000#, and a tongue wgt of 600#. I think that as long as you don't exceed the rated wgt. of the spring bars, you should be ok. There are folks here using 1000# and 1200# spring bars on their setups, and don't report any problems.

Tim


----------



## Guest (Sep 28, 2004)

action Hi! and Welcome !!!
Great choice of trailer! I tow a 25FB-S with a F-150 4X4. I use, and highly recommend, the Equal-I-Zer brand hitch. It is a combination weight distribution and anti-sway hitch. I occasionally look back to verify that the trailer is still back there. That's an exageration of course, but the hitch does perform flawlessly, even in interstate highway trafic.
Happy Camping,
Gary


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I use 1000 pound bars on my 28rs-s. This is to make sure I can cover up to 15% of my trailer weight (typ max tongue weight for a TT). With my trailer loaded it tips the scale at 6500 pounds and tongue at around 800 so I need the 1000 pound bars to cover. You indicate that you will only run at 600 pound tongue weight but this may be lite under certain conditions so there may be some sway concerns.


----------



## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

You can go to heavy, but in your case you should be fine. I use 1000# bars on my Equalizer and all is fine. The Outbacks are heavy enough, some of the small trailers could have issues with a WDH that is to far over rated though.


----------



## KampKro (Sep 28, 2004)

"I'm not really sure I understand your question. Are you referring to the spring bars for a WD hitch, or are you speaking of a specific WD hitch."

Tim:
**I was referring to buying either 600#, 800# or 1000# rated swing bars on a trunnion WD hitch. If my trailer tongue weight is going to be less than 600# would it be detrimental to be using one of the heavier rated ones?

Thanks again!
Terry


----------



## dmbcfd (Sep 8, 2004)

Terry,
action Welcome! I use a Reese WD hitch rated for 10,000# with 1000# trunnion bars on my 25 RSS which weighs just under 6000#. The only problem I've had was when I was feeling really strong one day and went one link further on the bars than I usually do.







The trailer didn't ride level and the rear of the truck bounced more than usual. Once I adjusted the chain, all was back to normal again. Good luck.
Steve


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

KampKro, I think if you are keeping your tongue at or below 600, you should be ok with the 800# bars. I think the 600's would be too light. Like CamperAndy mentioned, your tongue wgt should fall within the range of 10-15 % of trailer wgt, with the optimum being 12%. The 800's will give you a little cushion. I have yet to weigh my trailer loaded, but estimate it to be around 5100-5300#. It weighs 4760 from the factory, before battery, propane and water (which I rarely carry more then a few gallons of).

Tim


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Question I had, "Can the 1200 lb bar cause any problems by being too much 
for what I need?"

From Reese folks: "It will depend on the structure of the trailer its self. The heavier
bars will give you a stiffer ride with a lighter tongue weight which will transfer into the tow vehicle and trailer."

I have a tongue weight around 750 with 1200 lb bars.


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

hurricaneplumber - The only real problem with having bars that are too stiff is you can really shift more weight off of the TV rear wheels than you want and cause more handling problems.

If you adjust the head tilt correctly and use just enough tension on the chains to bring your rig back to level. You will have no driving issues under normal conditions. The only time you would need to be concerned would be during transitions from level to a steep slope, like a drive way or some camp sites. The bars try to keep the whole rig level and could actually lift the TV rear wheels off the ground or even bend the TT A-frame (worse case). Bars that are lower rated will bend before this happens.

During normal driving you may notice that the ride is stiffer with higher rated bars but if you do then it is time to slow down.

For me I install the bars on level ground and if the camp site I am backing into has a steep transition. I remove the bars before I back in.

Your combination is OK just be aware of what can happen.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Ok guy's I have a question for you. On the Reese's ball hitch, the part that slides into the reciever, there are two holes. One is marked 1200 and the other is 1000. The dealer set me up with 1000 pound bars for my 25rss and I have always used the 1000 lb hole. Would it hurt to use the 1200 hole, seeing as how this would get the TT closer to my TV??
Also Terry, what kind of sway control did you get, friction or dual cam setup or did you get the equal-i-zer brand hitch?? Kirk


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Kirk,

Are you refering to the shank? I only have one hole. I wonder if the other hole is for a bar that has a different length (the 1200 bar might be longer?)


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Yes that is what I was talking about, mine has two holes in the cast iron part that slides into the reciever and either hole will work but I do use the 1000 lb hole. Whats the difference, any ideas?


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

I could measure my 1200lb trunnion bars and then compare the length to yours. I still think the double hole is for different length bars.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Ok, lets do that I will measure mine as well, they are 1000 lbs bars.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

So here are the measurements. Putting the tape on the outside of the L to the end of the bar I have 31 1/2" and to the notch(center) that sets on the cam I have 28". They are the 1000 lb round style with the notched ends for the dual cam. Kirk


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

CA,

I have no problems with my setup. Over knolls and ditches I still have no problem because the tension is properly set between chain length and head tilt. The only worry I have right now is the length of my hitch shank, I had to get a big dropper because of truck height, as shown in above picture. The bottom of the shank is in my opinion too close to the ground and I think there will be a time where I go over a steep short knob and it will leave me stuck. Although it hasn't happened yet, I would like to cut 2 inches off of it up to the reinforcing web piece.
I need to confer about the lifting you mention, it seems to me that once the tension is set, it won't be altered enough to cause a lift of the truck rearend. I will look into this more, but still think it is a nonissue when the hitch is properly installed and adjusted.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

If that is what your slide in looks like then mine is completely different. Mine is cast iron and the slide in part with all the hardware weighs in at 35#.


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Kirk,

My bars are totally different than yours so the measurements will be off. My bar does not look like a 'L', see pictures.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Oh I see what you mean, my head part and bars are totally different, the round style slide up into the cast iron head. Mine works fine so I will continue to use it as is. Kirk


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

10-4, is your hitch actually called a Strait-Line hitch? I ordered a Reese Strait-Line 1200 system.


----------



## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

No mine originally came with the friction sway control, total junk when it comes to a tt of the length of mine. I added the dual cam setup for better control. kirk


----------



## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

Reese Strait-Line hitch

They have a 800 lb system and the 1200 lb, since I am right around the 800lb tongue weight, I went with 1200 lb. And Reese said it is not overkill for my application. When I asked the question, they pretty much said my bars are ideal for my rig, but putting the 1200 bars on say 600lb tongue weight will cause stiffer ride and such problems.
So that is why I have what I do now. And it works awesome. Key is proper setup though.

Kevin


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Kirk, I think we have the same hitch bar, except I still have a label on mine. I believe it is mearly the maximum towing capacity of the hitch bar when pinned through that hole. The label states 10,000# max for the first hole, and 12,000# for the hole closest to the ball mount. I normally put it here, as the shorter the distance between your TV and TT, the better it will handle. Since the trunnions fit into the hitch head, pinning either hole will have no effect on spring bar length.

I will try to get a picture of the hitch bar and label tomorrow.

Tim


----------

