# Entry Door Hard To Close



## FraTra (Aug 21, 2006)

My entry door next to the bunks takes a lot if effort to close. You have to push real hard to close and I just noticed tonight I can see light thru the seal about a foot from the bottom for about 12-14 inches. I noticed this during PDI and was told it was just the seal and would close easier when the seal got broke in. I didn't buy the explanation for a moment but have the other door which we use most the time anyway, so I decided I would add it to my list of warranty items for later.

I hope it's not a serious repair. I have looked at everything I can and have concluded that the door is slightly warped so the whole door may need to be replaced.

Has anyone had this problem?


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## GlenninTexas (Aug 11, 2004)

Probably the door needs adjustment, however check to make sure your stablizer jacks aren't causing the door to become torqued. When you put the stablizers down. crank them about a half turn after touching the ground. Any more and you can be lifting one side more than the other, causing the torque.

Regards, Glenn


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## campmg (Dec 24, 2005)

I had a similar problem with our rear door even when the stabalizer jacks were up. I fixed it a little by moving the little plate thingy forward that the latch goes into. It helps but still not as fluid as the front door.


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## FraTra (Aug 21, 2006)

Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunantly The door is the same with or without the stabs down or being level or not. I did check the latch plate and it is as far forward as it will go already. I think the door is just warped.


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

FraTra said:


> Thanks for the suggestions. Unfortunantly The door is the same with or without the stabs down or being level or not. I did check the latch plate and it is as far forward as it will go already. I think the door is just warped.


FraTra,
You're still under warranty. Take it back to the dealership. I had an 06 27RSDS, and I had nothing BUT trouble with the doors, AND, they leaked around the top!! Only way to tell was by actually touching the inside of the door and looking closely, while someone sprayed it from the outside. 
My son also got locked IN the TT a few times, and he's 12, and knows how to lock/unlock it. The lock's defective and/or the door's warped. Make them fix it!!
Darlene


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## ED_RN (Jun 25, 2006)

Check the weather striping around the door. The original weather stiping is yellow and probaly less than an 1/8 inch thick. Ours was loose and coming off. The dealer replaced it but put on black foam striping that is about 1/4 inch thick and we are now having the same problem with our door. It was so bad that I've already pulled most of it off and the door closes much easier.


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

To operate properly, a door must be centered properly it its opening. It should not actually touch metal-to-metal anywhere, except for hinges and latch. This means that there is a gap (or spacing) all the way around the door and weatherstrip fills the gap around the perimeter.

Also, the gap must not be too great or the weatherstrip won't fill it. Plus the gap mustn't be too small or the weatherstrip will bind. This description is for is an ideal fit. Most doors aren't perfect but they do need to be close enough that they operate in a satisfactory manner.

Obviously, if the door itself or the door opening aren't dimensioned correctly, there will be problems with fit and no amount of adjustment will cure the problem. My two cents.

Bill


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## TNOutbacker (Apr 23, 2005)

I had the same problem with my door. I found a small piece of black plastic that was screwed into the bottom of the door. At first I assumed it was a guide that pushed the door up from the bottom plate and squared it in the opening but I noticed that it was rubbing the plate and keeping the door from shutting completely. I removed the piece of plastic and the door works great now.


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## sew4fun5er (Aug 28, 2006)

TNOutbacker said:


> I had the same problem with my door. I found a small piece of black plastic that was screwed into the bottom of the door. At first I assumed it was a guide that pushed the door up from the bottom plate and squared it in the opening but I noticed that it was rubbing the plate and keeping the door from shutting completely. I removed the piece of plastic and the door works great now.


Thanks for this idea. The black plastic guide has rubbed my threshold a shiny silver and I do have problems closing my door. I will remove mine, too. I have a 2005 Sydney 5er.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

sew4fun5er said:


> I had the same problem with my door. I found a small piece of black plastic that was screwed into the bottom of the door. At first I assumed it was a guide that pushed the door up from the bottom plate and squared it in the opening but I noticed that it was rubbing the plate and keeping the door from shutting completely. I removed the piece of plastic and the door works great now.


Thanks for this idea. The black plastic guide has rubbed my threshold a shiny silver and I do have problems closing my door. I will remove mine, too. I have a 2005 Sydney 5er.
[/quote]

The black plastic piece is a spacer that is used during construction of the door to maintain clearance, You should be able to remove it but I would file it down first. If it starts to rub again after that it tells me the door is going out of alignment and need some work.


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