# Propane Alarm Shut Off (in A Pinch)



## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

EDITED:

In setting up the TT for only a 24 hour dry camping trip, I installed what I believed were two (2) fully re-charged 12v Interstate Deep Cycle Marine batteries. Mind you, these batteries are the original 2 batteries from when I bought my TT almost 2.5 years ago but the Battery Tender said they were fully charged (with proper water levels in them).

Anyway, at 11:30am I hooked up the two batteries to my TT and the monitor board said the batteries were only at 2/3 capacity. Hmmmm.

I did all the known battery conservation things to the TT. I removed the trailer brake plug, I turned off the refer condensation button, used the propane for the refer, we didn't use the lights very much as we were outside most of the time, etc.

At around 5pm with hardly any use beyond a handful of water pump uses, the monitor board said the batteries were down to 1/3 capacity. Hmmmm.

I ran my generator through the power cord to re-charge the batteries for 3 hours to hopefully get through the night. When the generator was done re-charging and I unplugged it from the TT, the monitor board said the batteries were back up to 2/3 capacity. I was thinking this might get us through the night.

There was only a few more uses of the water pump until we went to lay our sleeping kid down in the TT around 10pm and when I check the board again, it said the batteries were down to a flickering 2/3 - 1/3 again.

My wife and I went to bed around 12:30-1am and the monitor said the batteries were now at about 1/3.

At that hour, I took the wait and see approach hoping that the batteries would hold out until 7am when I could use the generator again.

Well, here is how my thread title was named, at around 4:15am the propane alarm starting screaming as loud as the smoke alarm would have had it been set off by fire.

Needless to say, I popped out of bed and realized the battery was probably just low because there was no smell of propane in the trailer (I just had the propane system professionaly checked before December, 2006) but the batteries were showing as "E".

The only thing I could do was jump out of the TT and plug the TT into the TV.

I once read in here a post from Andy that said if the Propane alarm screams, that means propane leak and if it beeps or is a low alarm, its just a battery issue.

I have to repeat, there was no (detectable to the human nose) propane leak BUT the alarm was screaming as loud as it possibly can. However, I know for certain that the batteries were now dead.

*IN A DIRE EARLY MORNING SCENARIO LIKE THIS, IS THERE A WAY TO SHUT OFF THE PROPANE ALARM IN A PINCH BEYOND PHYSICALLY REMOVING THE BATTERIES SO THERE IS NO POWER SOURCE FOR THE ALARM?  *

I beg for an answer because I am going out for 2 more days of dry camping this coming weekend and need to know if there is a workaround just in case I can't get the 2 new 12V batteries I need to order.

Your responses are greatly appreciated.


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

Check to see if the door heater switch on the fridge is on that will kill batteries in a hurry. Its on the inside top frame of the freezer. The propane alarm will scream with a low battery. And in a pinch to kill the alarm turn on a light (it won't come on but it will kill the battery) or smash the alarm with your foot









John


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

johnp2000 said:


> Check to see if the door heater switch on the fridge is on that will kill batteries in a hurry. Its on the inside top frame of the freezer. The propane alarm will scream with a low battery. And in a pinch to kill the alarm turn on a light (it won't come on but it will kill the battery) or smash the alarm with your foot
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you John. I almost used option number two at that time of night (morning).

I did turn on a TT light and it worked (dimly as it was) but the alarm was still wailing.

Btw, I previously noted that I had the condensation button turned off (per the hint found on this very forum):

Any other thoughts? Everything I know of was turned off.

I am leaning towards the fact that my batteries are just tired and need to be replaced but I hope to also learn from some feedback if I missed turning off any piece of equipment or any other source that could be drawing down the amps as well as how to TURN OFF THE PROPANE ALARM WHEN ITS A FALSE ALARM DUE TO A LOW BATTERY.


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

None that I know of, as it is hardwired into the campers 12 volt system. If you have an opportunity, look to see how easy it might be to remove (prior to 3 am), so that when it does happen, you'll have a plan.

Of course, I agree with your own assesment that new batteries are needed. If you do a lot of dry camping, you might want to look at getting a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries. They will last longer between charges than the 12's will.

Good luck

Tim


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Could just be a dead cell on the battery preventing it from charging and thus draining the other one also...

when you plug your power cord into the TT from the TV does the alarm shut off??? If so -- i bet you have a bad battery...


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

One of the fuses in the converter panel should be for the propane alarm.
At least one would think so.
See if you can figure out which one it is beforehand so you can just pull the fuse when the time comes.


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## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Mgonzo,

I have had numerous Interstate batteries until I finally realized they are junk. Look into deka batteries. The ones on my 5'er are lasting about 3 weeks without a charge. Interstates were about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Also Interstate has only mixed (cranking + deep cycle) batteries . What you really want is full deep cycle 12Volt batteries. Hard to find but I know they are available through Deka. I swear that will help. 6V's will also and happen to be easier to find. Just don't like that if one dies then your "up the crik".

Mike C


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

NJMikeC said:


> Mgonzo,
> 
> I have had numerous Interstate batteries until I finally realized they are junk. Look into deka batteries. The ones on my 5'er are lasting about 3 weeks without a charge. Interstates were about 1 1/2 to 2 weeks. Also Interstate has only mixed (cranking + deep cycle) batteries . What you really want is full deep cycle 12Volt batteries. Hard to find but I know they are available through Deka. I swear that will help. 6V's will also and happen to be easier to find. Just don't like that if one dies then your "up the crik".
> 
> Mike C


Kind of off topic, but 6 volt Deka's are what I have and I'm very happy with them.
No Idea how many weeks they would last as I always hit the disconnect switch when storing the trailer.


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## BlueWedge (Sep 11, 2005)

Brute force, grab alarm on sides and lift up. It will slide up off the mount. Now cut the wires.

I am not sure if the alarm is fused separately from the other 12 volt systems. The fuse would be the least damaging. You could put a blade connector on one of the wires before hand and pull it apart when needed.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

If you want to replace with 12v....look at the Trojan brand. I have two of these for my boat and they run forever. I replaced my old boat battery with the Trojan batteries this last summer and they would run for at least 2x the amount of time my old batteries did.

Having said that, I would recommend going with 2x6v batteries if you're going to be doing more dry camping. We have this setup and I can almost make it 5 days without having to charge the batteries. A great setup IMHO.


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

Ghosty said:


> One of the fuses in the converter panel should be for the propane alarm.
> At least one would think so.
> See if you can figure out which one it is beforehand so you can just pull the fuse when the time comes.


Katrina,

After I plugged the TT into the TV to stop the alarm, I opened up the converter panel to look for a specific alarm fuse. From all indications on the well marked panel, there wasn't a specific fuse marked as "Propane Alarm". That would make too much sense but hey, so would having strong batteries on hand when dry camping. <sigh>


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

NJMikeC said:


> If you want to replace with 12v....look at the Trojan brand. I have two of these for my boat and they run forever. I replaced my old boat battery with the Trojan batteries this last summer and they would run for at least 2x the amount of time my old batteries did.
> 
> Having said that, I would recommend going with 2x6v batteries if you're going to be doing more dry camping. We have this setup and I can almost make it 5 days without having to charge the batteries. A great setup IMHO.


Oregon Camper,

Are 6V batteries all the same size? I am finding out that there are a mulitude of size options in the 12V battery arena.


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## bentpixel (Sep 2, 2006)

Hi Mgonzo2u,
On my 23RS, the 15 amp dc fuse labelled FURNACE powered the LP Detector. 
I have the Trojan T-105's, so far so good. See Trojans website for details. Also, just picked up the Husky Smart Charger from Home Depot. Seems to have all of the features I needed to charge and maintain them. I don't have gen yet.









Good Luck,
Scott


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## tripphammer (Oct 3, 2006)

hatcityhosehauler said:


> Of course, I agree with your own assesment that new batteries are needed. If you do a lot of dry camping, you might want to look at getting a pair of 6 volt golf cart batteries. They will last longer between charges than the 12's will.


x2 but regardless of whether you do a lot of dry camping. The two 6-volts are the only way to go for both capacity and durability.
Take Care,
Tripp


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

bentpixel said:


> Hi Mgonzo2u,
> On my 23RS, the 15 amp dc fuse labelled FURNACE powered the LP Detector.
> I have the Trojan T-105's, so far so good. See Trojans website for details. Also, just picked up the Husky Smart Charger from Home Depot. Seems to have all of the features I needed to charge and maintain them. I don't have gen yet.
> 
> ...


Scott,

A big THANK YOU to you for the furnace fuse tip on the propane alarm ordeal. That is the type of info I was really in need of (and I am sure it will be beneficial to others at some point down the road).

The Trojan battery leads are also appreciated.

I was/am wondering what model/size battery some of you were using.

Your tidbit was helpful.
.

.

.

*Thank you to everyone that has posted information and help*.


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## Kyoutbacker (Apr 26, 2006)

You might want to try to "desulfer" your batteries before you replace them. The better battery chargers will do this. See one of the battery websites for explanation. Think safety before you try this.


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

Scott,

While hooking up the TT for the camping run this weekend, I pulled (what I believed to be per the writing next to it) the 15A furnace fuse and it did not stop the Propane Alarms active green signal light. That must mean its not tied to that fuse in my unit.

Hmmmmm


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## bentpixel (Sep 2, 2006)

Soooo sorry. Maybe I remembered wrong. Could be the refrigerator. Trying to read the handwritting is like reading a RX from your doctor.








I do rememeber pulling fuses 'til the green light went out. When I put it back I set it upside down; I don't have a disconnect switch so I pull it when it is in storage.

again.. sorry for the miss direction.

good luck,
Scott


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

bentpixel said:


> Soooo sorry. Maybe I remembered wrong. Could be the refrigerator. Trying to read the handwritting is like reading a RX from your doctor.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Scott,

Don't sweat it. You were just trying to help.

The proper fuse turned out to be the Refer fuse. '

Marc


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## ED_RN (Jun 25, 2006)

Just wondering what you meant when you said you removed the trailer brake plug. If you disconnected from your TV ok, if you pulled the emergrncy brake cable that will put a constant drain on your batteries and kill them real quick. 
I checked my TT and the frig fuse does shut off the propane alarm.

There has been alot said about batteries in the past but I'll add something from my experience. Even with the trailer plugged in for several days if I put my portable charger set on 10 amps and to deep cycle it will take several hours for the charger to cycle off and show a full charge. On the 2 amp setting it can almost a full day to show a battery is fully charged. Now I charge the batteries separately before a trip and seem to get alot more out of them.

Chris


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## Sluggo54 (Jun 15, 2005)

I did the obvious and put a switch on the hot lead to the propane alarm. It hasn't been needed, but I can turn the critter off on those rare occasions when we're not in it and it's not hooked up to legtrickety. I also installed battery switches, but that turns everything off - including fridge - ugly.

Sluggo


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

ED_RN said:


> Just wondering what you meant when you said you removed the trailer brake plug. If you disconnected from your TV ok, if you pulled the emergrncy brake cable that will put a constant drain on your batteries and kill them real quick.
> I checked my TT and the frig fuse does shut off the propane alarm.
> 
> There has been alot said about batteries in the past but I'll add something from my experience. Even with the trailer plugged in for several days if I put my portable charger set on 10 amps and to deep cycle it will take several hours for the charger to cycle off and show a full charge. On the 2 amp setting it can almost a full day to show a battery is fully charged. Now I charge the batteries separately before a trip and seem to get alot more out of them.
> ...


Chris,

Thank you for your reply.

You correctly interpreted my original statement of "I removed the trailer brake plug". I literally pulled the TT emergency brake control plug piece out of its housing on the TT.

Did I misunderstand other posts stating that leaving this plugged in will drain your batteries? You seem to have an understanding that is completely opposite of what I perceived as fact.

*Can you or anyone else confirm with 100% confidence that I SHOULD LEAVE the TT emergency brake control plugged in on the TT housing?*


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

If you pull the pin on the TT emergency brake housing, you will drain your batteries in a hurry. When pulled, that pin closes a circuit, allowing the battery to energize the trailer brakes and bring it to a stop, as in the event of unintentional uncoupling of the TV and TT. That is why the lanyard is supposed to be connected to the TV in a secure fashion, preferably not to the hitch recieve (incase that is the part that fails causing the uncoupling.)

Just put the pin back in, and your battery woes may be over.

Tim


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

hatcityhosehauler said:


> If you pull the pin on the TT emergency brake housing, you will drain your batteries in a hurry. When pulled, that pin closes a circuit, allowing the battery to energize the trailer brakes and bring it to a stop, as in the event of unintentional uncoupling of the TV and TT. That is why the lanyard is supposed to be connected to the TV in a secure fashion, preferably not to the hitch recieve (incase that is the part that fails causing the uncoupling.)
> 
> Just put the pin back in, and your battery woes may be over.
> 
> Tim


^^^What he said.
That pin is only supposed to come out during emergencies.
when it's pulled, it supplies a full 12 volts to the trailer brakes and will drain the batteries in a hurry.


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## Mgonzo2u (Aug 3, 2004)

Sum mitch!

I never removed it in the past with other TT's I owned but all of sudden I thought I read it the other way around, so the past two dry camping runs I pulled the pin and sure enough, the batteries that use to last a weekend were dying within hours.

What a dumb @$$ I am.

THANK YOU FOR THE REALITY CHECK!


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

That's why we're here. Glad I could help....









Tim


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## ED_RN (Jun 25, 2006)

That's why this forum is here. Now go camp with the plug in and enjoy.


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