# Black/gray Valve Leak



## 5 KENDALL'S CAMPING (Jul 9, 2008)

One of my waste tank valves is leaking. I'm pretty sure it's the black. I have learned the last couple of times to try to catch as much as I can when I open the cap and try to add the hose fitting (gross). I was not looking forward to dropping the underbelly along with the screws for the propane line to get in and fix/replace. I was looking online for any other fix and came across something called a "twist on waste valve". It seems like the right fix for a lot less work. Anyone tried one of these or have any other ideas?

Thanks,

Dean


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## Texas Friends (Feb 12, 2006)

You could always try an item like this connected to the outside discharge... you can open and close the valve after you have your sewer hose connected! I have seen with and witout the flush connection

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flush-king/20522

Bryan


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## 5 KENDALL'S CAMPING (Jul 9, 2008)

Thanks, That's what I was looking at. For around $20 it sounds like the better way to go.


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Texas Friends said:


> You could always try an item like this connected to the outside discharge... you can open and close the valve after you have your sewer hose connected! I have seen with and witout the flush connection
> 
> http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/flush-king/20522
> 
> Bryan


x2. I've always had a little water come out when I take off the cap. This will fix it.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

5 KENDALL said:


> Thanks, That's what I was looking at. For around $20 it sounds like the better way to go.


I use my Flush King regularly. It allows me to backflush the tanks at a dump station by hooking up a hose, closing the gate valve, opening the tank valve, and let the water run backwards through the system. It may even dislodge something that may be hung up and causing your leak (if it's stuck at the tank valve and preventing it from closing completely).

Even better, it allows me to see when all the "stuff" is done flowing out and when the water is running clear, to confirm that my tanks are nice and clean - even when I cannot or do not have time to backflush. (Some dump stations don't provide a connection for a garden hose.)

But you better look again. The price is $45 to club members - $50 if you are not a member. But either way, it is a good investment if you do not have a Tornado or similar device installed in your tank(s).

Mike


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## 5 KENDALL'S CAMPING (Jul 9, 2008)

I saw a similiar device called a "Termination valve" at General RV for just under $20. I may upgrade to something like the Flush King because of the clear part and back flushing for just the reasons you stated.


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## phxbrit (Jul 24, 2007)

Mine does the same thing. I was considering the Flush King. Then I realized it may not fix my problem. It looks like it is upside down in the campingworld picture. Don't you need the hose connector between the the FK valve and the trailer in order to back fill the tanks? Also, wouldn't this only work if you left the FK on the whole time? How are you going to take the valve cap off and get the FK on without the water spilling out? There is no way we can leave the FK on the whole time, it would be destroyed on the the two tracks.

Ours is definately the black water valve that is leaking. There alway seems to be about a 2-3 cups of blue water in the tube when I take the cap off. I don't want to take the underbelly off, but it looks like there may not be any other options unless they make a gate that replaces the cap.


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

phxbrit said:


> I was considering the Flush King. Then I realized it may not fix my problem. It looks like it is upside down in the campingworld picture. Don't you need the hose connector between the the FK valve and the trailer in order to back fill the tanks? . . . Also, wouldn't this only work if you left the FK on the whole time? How are you going to take the valve cap off and get the FK on without the water spilling out? There is no way we can leave the FK on the whole time, it would be destroyed on the the two tracks.


It is pictured in the Camping World photo with the connection to the trailer facing you - which does position the water hose inlet between the trailer and the FK gate valve.

And you're right. You have to take the cap off the trailer's dump pipe to install the FK. So you'd be back in the same boat. I definately would not leave it installed while driving down the road.

But your's may be seeping or leaking for the same reason as Dean's - something lodged in the valve and it cannot close completely. The FK may help you out, too. I usually backflush 5-10 gallons of water, 3-4 times, before no TP or other "stuff" can be seen and only clear water runs out. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, it's still a useful investment.

Also, the garden hose connection allows you to close the tank valve, open the FK gate valve, and rinse out your "stinky slinky" while everything is hooked up. It makes for less "yuchy" stuff to handle when putting everything away.

Mike


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## 5 KENDALL'S CAMPING (Jul 9, 2008)

I think the Termination Valve I was looking at is something that can be left on. It looks like it has its own cap beyond the open/close valve. This would allow you to uncap, hook up, then open the Termination valve followed by the black and gray valves. I did try to back flush at home with a hose to clear out anything that might be in the way of the valve. I won't know if it worked until the next time I dump but by then I will at least have the Termination valve installed.

Dean


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Termination valve is exactly what you want.


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