# Re-skin Front Of Outback



## aplvlykat

Ok, here's the deal. About a year ago I noticed bubbles in the front of my Outback. I contacted Keystone through the dealer and they said maybe they will consider replacing the front of the TT or most likely cut out the bubbles and re-glassing the front. I told them I did not want it re-glassed and I would live with the bubbles, they weren't that bad at that point. This year they have grown and the size depends on the outdoor temp. So again I contacted both parties and again they said bring it in so we can see it and take pictures but they doubted they would do anything because mine is a 2004 model unless it was out of good will.
The new part from Keystone will cost $700.00 , plus aprox. $100.00 in misc. parts and will most likely have the same problem down the rode. Option one.
To have 3 sections of .063 Alum. bent to size will cost around $300.00, plus $100.00 misc. parts. This is most likely the way I am going to go.
My question is this should I use flat stock for the upper section and paint it white to match existing and use diamond plate on the lowwer section or should I use diamond plate all the way up? I am kind of leaning towards the white/daimond plate look. What do you guy's think would look better? Kirk


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## California Jim

Bummer Kirk.

I agree that the half DP half white would be a better option. All DP would probably not look right, and be a big mirror too!

Good Luck:

PS: I'll be out in AV this weekend visiting family


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## aplvlykat

Jim, bring some shorts and plenty of brew, it's been over 100 for a week plus now. Kirk


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## hatcityhosehauler

Kirk, how will the aluminum effect the overall weight of the TT. Are you replacing the fiberglass with it? I think the 50/50 is the best instead of all DP, for the same reasons Jim stated.

Tim


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## aplvlykat

Tim, .063 alum is about 1/16" thick and fairly light weight and yes I will be removing the fiberglass down to the bare frame. It may even be lighter then the fiberglass. Thats 2 for the white/diamond look.


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## campmg

Someone just posted pics of their dealer installed diamond plate just below part where the front starts angling down. This is where the problem seems to occur. Do a quick search. I thought it came out great.


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## hatcityhosehauler

Take lots of pictures......mine is an '04, and I'll looking for bubbles.

Tim


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## BoaterDan

You've taken into account the structural rigidity provided by the bonding of the fiberglass skin to the frame, right? Will you screw on the new cover?

Hey, if you did the whole trailer you'd have an Airstream for 1/3 the price, right?


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## campmg

I found the thread with diamond plate pics. Thanks again to Fl Ford.

Diamond Plate Pics


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## aplvlykat

Dan, yes I did take that into consideration. The existing skin is simply screwed on to the wielded frame underneath. You can see a picture in the keystone gallery of what the framing looks like. When I install the new skin it will be screwed in on the edges and at the seams. Unfortunately I will have two seams across the middle at apox. 1/3 and 2/3 of the front. Also I will most likely have to add alum. tube under the seam in order to screw into. It should be stronger, maybe lighter and definitely flatter than the fiberglass. I have done this before on my old motorhome when I replaced and rebuilt the roof. Kirk


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## daves700

My 06 is in the shop right now getting the front fixed with diamond plate. The bulges I have are from the hitch light down ...... Can't wait to get it back from the shop


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## z-family




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## PDX_Doug

Kirk,

Cra**y deal, that's for sure!








Have you been to a body shop that specializes in fiberglass repair (boats, etc.) yet.
It may be that cutting out the offending areas is the best bet. It sounds scary, but a good fiberglass tech can do amazing things. And the repair will be as strong or stronger than when it left the factory.

As far as the diamond plate is concerned, I think - visually - covering the whole front end would be a bit much. I'd keep it below the beltline. My biggest concern, personally, would be what's causing the problem? You don't really want to treat the symptom and ignore the disease.

Good luck!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Katrina

half white, half Dp over the top of the fiberglass would be the way I think I'd go.


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## fl_diesel

I would not like the look if the reflective DP was much higher than the hitch light. With the bottom portion being on a downward angle it prevents any blinding reflections. If you go down this path, for sure do the white on the top 3/4 or so. My dealer riveted the DP (under the trim) to keep it in place -- this may be a better long term solution than screws?? Good luck with your fix.


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## aplvlykat

Doug, I won't know what caused the bubble untill I get into it but I will let everyone know what I find. What I think caused the bubble is the amount of heat, remember I live in the desert, and the lack of a good glue to hold down the fiberglass to the wood substraight or the lack of wrapping the fiberglass around the backside of the wood to lock it into place. 
We are talking a major bubble, it starts about the A in Outback and runs 2'10" towards the awning side and is aprox. 1' oblong, it will lift when warm about 1" and wavy. It is right in the center so reglassing is a major job.
Fl, I like the idea of the rivets and will most likely use them. I think I can even get them in white. 
Going white/ diamond plate is what I was leaning towards also and for all the above reasons. The panels, 3 of them, will be custom bent to match all the angles and will have a offset bent on the edge so all the panels fit flush and water tight. I will use etching primer and automotive paint with a clear coat to match the color. Should I have the Outback logo airbrushed into the paint or buy a new one? kirk


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## PDX_Doug

Sounds like a project, Kirk!









Be sure to document your progress for us.








As far as the logo is concerned, I would order a new one from Keystone.
Of course, if you went the airbrush route, you could get a little - or a lot - creative...

Maybe a rolling advertisement for the 2007 Western Region Outbackers.com Rally at Zion N.P. next July!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## HootBob

WOW!! Kirk that sure is a major project
Take lots of pictures to share with us
As for the Logo I would get a new one

Don


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## aplvlykat

Well I started on the project this morning about 10 oclock and had the front skin removed by noon. It apears my bubble was started by a slight water leak around the passenger running light, I never got a indication that it was leaking. The fiberglass is glued to what looks to be industrial strenght cardboard. The whole thing is about 3/16" thick, 1/16 for the fiberglass and 2/16 for the cardboard, it is very flimsy. I will take siome pics as soon as the batteries charge up in the camera. Kirk

OK I posted some pics in the gallery under Outback Mods. Sorry I don't know how to get them up here. Kirk


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## California Jim

Thanks Kirk, I would be very interested in seeing pictures of the "guts". By the way, yeah 100+ in AV this wekend. Phew!


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## aplvlykat

Yes it was another hot one this weekend. Next time you are up stop by and have a cold one. We are right off of Apple Valley rd. between hwy 18 and Yucca Loma. Kirk


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## HootBob

Here you go Kirk




























Don


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## aplvlykat

Thanks Don


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## HootBob

No problem Kirk

Don


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## PDX_Doug

Boy Kirk, those pictures just send shivers up my spine!








I'm a pretty handy guy, but I don't know if I could do that to our baby?









Thanks for the pictures. It's good to get a chance to see the insides of one of these things. Especially if it's someone elses!







Hope the project is proceeding smoothly.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## camping479

Looking good Kirk, hope the whole project goes smoothly.

Mike


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## aplvlykat

No surprises so far and the panels are being made and should be ready tomorrow. Today I have to get all the little things togethere like paint, putty tape and self leveling silicon for the roof. I am also going to replace the fiberglass with foam panels and use expandable foam in the holes in the studs to keep the wires from vibrating. They did do a good job on the wiring all the studs have rubber grommets installed to protect them from wear, Its on the corners where I want to spray in the foam. Kirk


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## PDX_Doug

Kirk,

Do you have any pictures of the panel edge details. I would like to see exactly how they attach and seal everything up. Any particular tricks you see as to how they get it all together?

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## campmg

And I was proud of myself after hanging the bathroom towel holder with 2 screws.

This is an amazing job you're undertaking. Sounds like you know what you're doing. Show us some pics when done.


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## aplvlykat

Ok Doug let me see if I can answer your question. On both edges and the top there are edging strips in the center of the strip is a lenght of white plastic, this helps seal the screws. When you remove the plastic there are more screws, about every 4" or so, that hold the alum. down over the front and side seam. Under the alum. which screws onto the front there is a length of putty tape, this is the only seal on the front and sidewall seam. Some silicon is applied to the edge of this strip after it is screwed down to take up any gaps and seal it even more. The top is done simular except the rubber roof membrane runs under the alum. strip, by about a foot, and the hold down strip is then covered with lots of self leveling goop. This was a problem with mine they missed the roof rafter that the strip was suppose to fasten to and the only thing holding the strip and roof rubber was the under board which is about 1/4" thick. The front panel after you remove the strips has no sealant between the alum. framing and the industrial strenght cardboard. The front isn't even screwed down to the framing it is stapled on. The leak I had around the light was due to the lack of putty tape between the front wall and the fixture. I will take some more pic and post them in the gallery. Kirk


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## aplvlykat

If Don or someone could help me out I posted a couple more pics. One on replacing the fiberglass and another shows where the sidewall meets the front framing.


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## PDX_Doug

Thanks Kirk.







I will look forward to seeing some pictures, but I think I've got a pretty good visual now. Great description.

It sounds like you are pretty sure your bubble problems were indeed water related. Are you seeing any easy fixes that people beginning to experience the bubble problem can apply? Something that might arrest further damage. Pulling up the edges and adding caulking, or something?

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## California Jim

OK, this all reminds me that I need to go out and re-caulk the marker lights (front & back). Those pictures are making me nervous


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## huntr70

Here you go Kirk....


















Steve


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## aplvlykat

Doug, yes I am sure it was water related. Once you have a bubble there is no way to stop it because the cardboard is coming apart and the vibration just driving down the road makes it come apart more. The only way to stop it is to remove the lights and put enough putty to seal it. You can get a roll at the RV store for $3.00. I wish I had spent the 1 hour and resealed mine. Kirk


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## Oregon_Camper

I am consistently amazed by the level of knowledge and know-how of people on this site. That project would have had me shaking in my shoes.

Wow!!


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## countrygirl

This is a scarey thread to me...makes me want to go caulk every exterior light etc on my Outback whether it needs it or not.


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## aplvlykat

Counrtygirl, That is exactly what I plan on doing after seeing the job they did on the front. Get some putty tape for about $3.00. Then pop the lense, loosen the 2 screws just enough to push a bead of putty under the light all the way around, retighten the screws and trim away excess putty with a plastic knife and put the lense back on. Should take about 10 min. per light to save some expensive repairs down the road. 
Oregon camper, I guess I should have mentioned that back in 1976-1980 when I was going to college I worked swing shift for fleetwood building sidewalls for TTand MH. The technolgy hasn't changed much so I have a real good idea how these things are put togethere. Kirk


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## campmg

aplvlykat said:


> Oregon camper, I guess I should have mentioned that back in 1976-1980 when I was going to college I worked swing shift for fleetwood building sidewalls for TTand MH. The technolgy hasn't changed much so I have a real good idea how these things are put togethere. Kirk
> [snapback]131408[/snapback]​


I knew it. He's a ringer.


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## Oregon_Camper

campmg said:


> aplvlykat said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oregon camper, I guess I should have mentioned that back in 1976-1980 when I was going to college I worked swing shift for fleetwood building sidewalls for TTand MH. The technolgy hasn't changed much so I have a real good idea how these things are put togethere. Kirk
> [snapback]131408[/snapback]​
> 
> 
> 
> I knew it. He's a ringer.
Click to expand...

Ah...that help a bit. And to think I thought my college summer job was cool. I worked for U-Haul, which rented power tools....


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## HootBob

Oregon_Camper said:


> I am consistently amazed by the level of knowledge and know-how of people on this site. That project would have had me shaking in my shoes.
> 
> Wow!!


Yeah, I don't know if I would be up to a task like that

Don


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## PDX_Doug

aplvlykat said:


> I guess I should have mentioned that back in 1976-1980 when I was going to college I worked swing shift for fleetwood building sidewalls for TTand MH. The technolgy hasn't changed much so I have a real good idea how these things are put togethere.


*WHAT!*
I was so inspired, I just ripped the front off mine to follow your lead, and now you decide to divulge this 'little' piece of information!









Just kidding! It is good to know you had some experience before taking on that job, Kirk. Hope it is continuing to go well!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## aplvlykat

Well I finally got the new front panels they are two days late. The sheet metal shop did a nice job with the bends and overlap joints. I did a dry fit and evrything fits nice and tight. Tomorrow I will primer and paint the 2 upper panels white. I posted 4 pictures in the gallery but I can not figuire out how to get them into the post. A little help again please. Kirk


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## fl_diesel

And the rest:


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## Oregon_Camper

Nice sheet metal. Guessing you'll be posting some updated pictures sometime this weekend.


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## PDX_Doug

Those look pretty nice, Kirk!
I know it's actually a repair, but that is going to be one 'mod' to be proud of!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## aplvlykat

Well despite the weather this project is finished. Yesterday the temp topped out at 114, so all the painting was completed in the morning. One good thing about the heat was that the paint baked on and dried really quick. The first two panels were hung yesterday evening with the help of my oldest son and my nephew. Today I finshed the lower panel and finished installing all the trim parts but it took most of the day because again it was 112 outside. If I don't say so myself the front turned out great. The total cost was 245.00 for the metal, 140.00 for primer and paint, 26.00 for foam board insulation, 75.00 for expandalbe foam, screws and silicon, 37.00 from the RV store for putty tape and roof sealant. The grand total was about 525.00 but I now have a solid front(as solid as the sides) and no bubbles. I will post some pics when it cools down a little right now I am going to drink some brews and go swimming. Kirk


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## PDX_Doug

Congratulations Kirk!

Sounds like you have earned a few cold ones! I can't wait to see the pictures.









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## aplvlykat

The final pictures are in the gallery. It finally cooled down a little at 8:30 it was down to 97 degree's. Kirk


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## PDX_Doug

That really looks nice, Kirk! Well done!









I noticed you reduced the number of identification lights across the top. Any legal issues with that?
What did you decide on the graphics?

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Oregon_Camper

You're skills are awesome...you can replace the siding on my Outback anyday!


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## California Jim

Looks great Kirk. Nice job indeed.


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## HootBob

Great job Kirk
Looks really awesome
You are the man









Don


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## BoaterDan

PDX_Doug said:


> I noticed you reduced the number of identification lights across the top. Any legal issues with that?
> What did you decide on the graphics?
> 
> Happy Trails,
> Doug


Mine only had two from the factory so I doubt it.









Kirk, it looks great. Now that you've painted it white it doesn't stand out so much.... so I suggest you be the only Outbacker with the front of his TT covered in refrigerator magnets.


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## camping479

Looks like you did a really nice job Kirk







. I like the diamond plate at the bottom. What kind of paint system did you use?? Judging from the price of the paint I'm guessing urethane.

That should hold up a lot better than the fibreglass.

Mike


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## aplvlykat

Mike, I used Nason acrylic enamel automotive paint. The type you have to mix the harden and reducer then spray it out of a gun. The primer was the main element and cost more than the paint. It was a special epoxy/etching base primer made for alum. 
As far as the graphics I think I am going to have the blue and tan arrows and stripes duplicated and have a Gieco made out of the herringbone/tan color.
I only had two lights as well. I reused all the old parts except the lower white hitch light, I am going to hook that one up as a reverse backup lamp. 
This whole project was simply to save myself some money on the repairs and have a solid front end. If keystone/dealer had been a little more reasonable on the price of the existing I would have bought it from them. Since I started this project I have found out that the local RV store sells fiberglass sheeting (about have again as thick) for about 1.99 sq./ft. For a section 8x12 thats 192.00 plus tax, may have gone that route if I had found it sooner. Kirk


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## PDX_Doug

PDX_Doug said:


> I noticed you reduced the number of identification lights across the top.


OK, never mind!








I was thinking they had the three center lights as well as the two at the outer corners (similar to what is on the rear). I just looked at a picture of mine, and it is only two lights also. My dumb! shy

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## fl_diesel

Impressive! Nice job.

You have my vote for mod of the year.


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## HootBob

aplvlykat said:


> If keystone/dealer had been a little more reasonable on the price of the existing I would have bought it from them. Since I started this project I have found out that the local RV store sells fiberglass sheeting (about have again as thick) for about 1.99 sq./ft. For a section 8x12 thats 192.00 plus tax, may have gone that route if I had found it sooner. Kirk


Yeah Kirk but you can be proud of a job well done
And it look just as good if not better then the Dealer would have done









Don


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## RVCarolina

Congratulations on a job well done! It looks great. You know we're all waiting for the pictures of the graphics when they're done. Thanks for sharing this awesome mod with everyone.








Fred


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## Oregon_Camper

fl_diesel said:


> Impressive! Nice job.
> 
> You have my vote for mod of the year.


That is a close race between this mod and Vern's shower mod...


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## MattS

How much do you charge for this mod


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