# Outback 323Bh



## Cecilt

We are interested in this open floor plan. Can anyone comment on your likes/dislikes. Is the large slide designed well to support all he weight. We have not seen it in person yet. How is the slide mechanism designed. Is outside storage poor due to hot water heater placement. Can u access bathroom with slide in. Why did the 2014 get rid of the exterior storage next to door. What changes are in the 2014. 
Is the actual length bumper to tongue 36' as the literature says or is it longer. I don't want to go any longer than 36' in a TT. How does it tow? Tks


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## joeymac

Cecilt said:


> We are interested in this open floor plan. Can anyone comment on your likes/dislikes. Is the large slide designed well to support all he weight. We have not seen it in person yet. How is the slide mechanism designed. Is outside storage poor due to hot water heater placement. Can u access bathroom with slide in. Why did the 2014 get rid of the exterior storage next to door. What changes are in the 2014.
> Is the actual length bumper to tongue 36' as the literature says or is it longer. I don't want to go any longer than 36' in a TT. How does it tow? Tks


 I haven't measured from tongue to bumper, but I think it is somewhere in the neighborhood of 34 ft. Before we bought this model, we owned a 312BH. I think that the 323BH tows a little better than the 312BH because of the fiberglass front cap. I also get better gas mileage, and the only thing I can contribute it to is the fiberglass cap makes it a bit more aerodynamic.

Overall, we are happy with it and have only noted a few things that we are unhappy with. None of them would stop us from buying this model again, just minor things. You cannot access any part of the camper when the slides are in....Think clam shell ! You will need to move the main slide out a foot and then you can get into the bathroom.

1. Front storage on driver side of trailer is a PITA. I had to go and buy new plastic storage bins that were taller, and thinner, vs. the standard width and height bins I had previous. I was still able to get everything that we had in the front storage of our 312BH in the 323BH, just had to be a bit more creative with the bins.

2. AC vent in the bathroom. It is really unneeded, and I plan on buying an adjustable vent to shut the air flow off into the bathroom so that we get more air flow into the master bedroom which sometimes feels stuffy if you don't leave the bathroom door open into the bedroom. A $9.00 fix, so not a big deal to us.

3. On the kitchen slide, a couple of things:

a. When the slide is retracted, the awning tends to rest on top of the slide. I have placed a pool noodle on top of the retracted slide to protect the awning from getting a hole in it over time.

b. The retracted slide takes away from your awning space. Not a big deal just be aware of it.

4. Haven't had any issues with the "king slide" yet. The slide motor seems to propel it out fairly quickly, and don't anticipate any issues.

5. Beware that it can only carry 995 lbs of cargo. Could be an issue if you like to pack heavy. Just took mine to the scales and fully loaded with our ¾ ton Suburban we weighed in at 15,600 lbs. We had to go back and remove some items as we were heavy by a 200 lbs.

That's about all I can think of, we love the layout, space, and find the bathroom space pretty adequate for a travel trailer. The couches are pretty spacious and comfortable and the AC does a great job of cooling the camper quickly. Hope this helps !


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## Cale

joeymac said:


> We are interested in this open floor plan. Can anyone comment on your likes/dislikes. Is the large slide designed well to support all he weight. We have not seen it in person yet. How is the slide mechanism designed. Is outside storage poor due to hot water heater placement. Can u access bathroom with slide in. Why did the 2014 get rid of the exterior storage next to door. What changes are in the 2014.
> Is the actual length bumper to tongue 36' as the literature says or is it longer. I don't want to go any longer than 36' in a TT. How does it tow? Tks


 I haven't measured from tongue to bumper, but I think it is somewhere in the neighborhood of 34 ft. Before we bought this model, we owned a 312BH. I think that the 323BH tows a little better than the 312BH because of the fiberglass front cap. I also get better gas mileage, and the only thing I can contribute it to is the fiberglass cap makes it a bit more aerodynamic.

Overall, we are happy with it and have only noted a few things that we are unhappy with. None of them would stop us from buying this model again, just minor things. You cannot access any part of the camper when the slides are in....Think clam shell ! You will need to move the main slide out a foot and then you can get into the bathroom.

1. Front storage on driver side of trailer is a PITA. I had to go and buy new plastic storage bins that were taller, and thinner, vs. the standard width and height bins I had previous. I was still able to get everything that we had in the front storage of our 312BH in the 323BH, just had to be a bit more creative with the bins.

2. AC vent in the bathroom. It is really unneeded, and I plan on buying an adjustable vent to shut the air flow off into the bathroom so that we get more air flow into the master bedroom which sometimes feels stuffy if you don't leave the bathroom door open into the bedroom. A $9.00 fix, so not a big deal to us.

3. On the kitchen slide, a couple of things:

a. When the slide is retracted, the awning tends to rest on top of the slide. I have placed a pool noodle on top of the retracted slide to protect the awning from getting a hole in it over time.

b. The retracted slide takes away from your awning space. Not a big deal just be aware of it.

4. Haven't had any issues with the "king slide" yet. The slide motor seems to propel it out fairly quickly, and don't anticipate any issues.

5. Beware that it can only carry 995 lbs of cargo. Could be an issue if you like to pack heavy. Just took mine to the scales and fully loaded with our ¾ ton Suburban we weighed in at 15,600 lbs. We had to go back and remove some items as we were heavy by a 200 lbs.

That's about all I can think of, we love the layout, space, and find the bathroom space pretty adequate for a travel trailer. The couches are pretty spacious and comfortable and the AC does a great job of cooling the camper quickly. Hope this helps !
[/quote]

Quick follow on questions:

1. Is the 50amp service and framed/wired for 2nd A/C standard?

2. Is the cargo carrying capacity low due to the puny tires? It looks as though they used the same D rated tires for the whole Outback line....I would most likely immediately go to an LR E tire....

3. What is the slide actuation mechanics? (Electric, cable.....etc)

Thanks


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## joeymac

Cale said:


> We are interested in this open floor plan. Can anyone comment on your likes/dislikes. Is the large slide designed well to support all he weight. We have not seen it in person yet. How is the slide mechanism designed. Is outside storage poor due to hot water heater placement. Can u access bathroom with slide in. Why did the 2014 get rid of the exterior storage next to door. What changes are in the 2014.
> Is the actual length bumper to tongue 36' as the literature says or is it longer. I don't want to go any longer than 36' in a TT. How does it tow? Tks


 I haven't measured from tongue to bumper, but I think it is somewhere in the neighborhood of 34 ft. Before we bought this model, we owned a 312BH. I think that the 323BH tows a little better than the 312BH because of the fiberglass front cap. I also get better gas mileage, and the only thing I can contribute it to is the fiberglass cap makes it a bit more aerodynamic.

Overall, we are happy with it and have only noted a few things that we are unhappy with. None of them would stop us from buying this model again, just minor things. You cannot access any part of the camper when the slides are in....Think clam shell ! You will need to move the main slide out a foot and then you can get into the bathroom.

1. Front storage on driver side of trailer is a PITA. I had to go and buy new plastic storage bins that were taller, and thinner, vs. the standard width and height bins I had previous. I was still able to get everything that we had in the front storage of our 312BH in the 323BH, just had to be a bit more creative with the bins.

2. AC vent in the bathroom. It is really unneeded, and I plan on buying an adjustable vent to shut the air flow off into the bathroom so that we get more air flow into the master bedroom which sometimes feels stuffy if you don't leave the bathroom door open into the bedroom. A $9.00 fix, so not a big deal to us.

3. On the kitchen slide, a couple of things:

a. When the slide is retracted, the awning tends to rest on top of the slide. I have placed a pool noodle on top of the retracted slide to protect the awning from getting a hole in it over time.

b. The retracted slide takes away from your awning space. Not a big deal just be aware of it.

4. Haven't had any issues with the "king slide" yet. The slide motor seems to propel it out fairly quickly, and don't anticipate any issues.

5. Beware that it can only carry 995 lbs of cargo. Could be an issue if you like to pack heavy. Just took mine to the scales and fully loaded with our ¾ ton Suburban we weighed in at 15,600 lbs. We had to go back and remove some items as we were heavy by a 200 lbs.

That's about all I can think of, we love the layout, space, and find the bathroom space pretty adequate for a travel trailer. The couches are pretty spacious and comfortable and the AC does a great job of cooling the camper quickly. Hope this helps !
[/quote]

Quick follow on questions:

1. Is the 50amp service and framed/wired for 2nd A/C standard?

2. Is the cargo carrying capacity low due to the puny tires? It looks as though they used the same D rated tires for the whole Outback line....I would most likely immediately go to an LR E tire....

3. What is the slide actuation mechanics? (Electric, cable.....etc)

Thanks
[/quote]

Quick follow on questions:

1. Is the 50amp service and framed/wired for 2nd A/C standard?
50 AMP Service and 2nd A/C framed wired are standard as far as I can tell. Everyone I looked at had it, including ours.

2. Is the cargo carrying capacity low due to the puny tires? It looks as though they used the same D rated tires for the whole Outback line....I would most likely immediately go to an LR E tire....
I think it has to do more with the axle rating. I believe they use the same axles for the 312BH, 323BH, 301BQ. Although I am not 100% sure, that would be my guess. If you go to a LT E rated tire, you may need to upgrade to different rims...Something to keep in mind. $$$$$$

3. What is the slide actuation mechanics? (Electric, cable.....etc)
The large "king slide" is an actuator slide (meaning gears and a motor in the belly), and the kitchen slide is a BAL Accu Slide, which is cable operated. Just had my kitchen slide motor and gearbox completely replaced as the gears somehow got jammed up and wouldn't retract or deploy. I have to say though, the dealer got it fixed quick.


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## Cale

joeymac said:


> Quick follow on questions:
> 
> 1. Is the 50amp service and framed/wired for 2nd A/C standard?
> 50 AMP Service and 2nd A/C framed wired are standard as far as I can tell. Everyone I looked at had it, including ours.
> 
> 2. Is the cargo carrying capacity low due to the puny tires? It looks as though they used the same D rated tires for the whole Outback line....I would most likely immediately go to an LR E tire....
> I think it has to do more with the axle rating. I believe they use the same axles for the 312BH, 323BH, 301BQ. Although I am not 100% sure, that would be my guess. If you go to a LT E rated tire, you may need to upgrade to different rims...Something to keep in mind. $$$$$$
> 
> 3. What is the slide actuation mechanics? (Electric, cable.....etc)
> The large "king slide" is an actuator slide (meaning gears and a motor in the belly), and the kitchen slide is a BAL Accu Slide, which is cable operated. Just had my kitchen slide motor and gearbox completely replaced as the gears somehow got jammed up and wouldn't retract or deploy. I have to say though, the dealer got it fixed quick.


Thanks. We bought one Saturday and will receive it on 20 SEP. We are extremely excited. I will have many more questions...

You are right, it is the axles, I crawled under and the axles are stamped 4400lbs. If it becomes too big of a deal, i may entertain the idea of upgrading axles.....

Cale


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## Cecilt

Cale said:


> Quick follow on questions:
> 
> 1. Is the 50amp service and framed/wired for 2nd A/C standard?
> 50 AMP Service and 2nd A/C framed wired are standard as far as I can tell. Everyone I looked at had it, including ours.
> 
> 2. Is the cargo carrying capacity low due to the puny tires? It looks as though they used the same D rated tires for the whole Outback line....I would most likely immediately go to an LR E tire....
> I think it has to do more with the axle rating. I believe they use the same axles for the 312BH, 323BH, 301BQ. Although I am not 100% sure, that would be my guess. If you go to a LT E rated tire, you may need to upgrade to different rims...Something to keep in mind. $$$$$$
> 
> 3. What is the slide actuation mechanics? (Electric, cable.....etc)
> The large "king slide" is an actuator slide (meaning gears and a motor in the belly), and the kitchen slide is a BAL Accu Slide, which is cable operated. Just had my kitchen slide motor and gearbox completely replaced as the gears somehow got jammed up and wouldn't retract or deploy. I have to say though, the dealer got it fixed quick.


Thanks. We bought one Saturday and will receive it on 20 SEP. We are extremely excited. I will have many more questions...

You are right, it is the axles, I crawled under and the axles are stamped 4400lbs. If it becomes too big of a deal, i may entertain the idea of upgrading axles.....

Cale
[/quote]

Awesome. You will love the room this camper provides. It feels very much like a 5th wheel with the MBR and bathroom configuration. Since picking ours up on Friday we have done the following:

1) Installed 24" flat screen in MBR
2) Installed 8" wall mounted osciallating fan in MBR
3) Installed 2 shelves in each of the MBR closests(why mfr's don't put shelves in these closests is ridiculous. Who brings hanging clothes camping)
4) Painted AC shroud and 3 Max Air II vent covers Satin Black to match new color scheme that came on my camper(cream sides and black front cap)
5) Installed Vortex fan in Bathroom
6) Mounted 15' LED light strip below awning
7) Installed 1 shelf in bunkroom hanging closet
8) Installed XM satellite Onxy Home System
9) Installed TV in Bunkroom
10) Will replace the slow power jack with a 3500 Barker VIP I removed from the camper I traded in
11) Will be mounting a 20' black slide topper on the super slide. Dometic came out with a new design and hardware that is sleeker looking than current design. Will be ready to ship next week.
12) Mounted 2 flag holders to front tongue to display our respective colleges
13) Plan to investigate if I can convert the outside kitchen 751 key to a black slam latch style like the exterior compartment has. Will definetly add a non locking latch to the small exterior door next to hot water heater. Who carries a key with them to keep that door closed all the time? 
14) Installed a 64" black hose carrier under the rear bumper to carry the exterior hoses since there are 2 dump valves
15) Purchased a 50 amp female(twisting plug) to 30 amp male so I can use 30 amp as well as my existing 30 amp surge protector. 
16) Purchased a 12.5' telescoping ladder that I will store under the MBR bed so I can get on the roof when needed at a campsite. Explored the rear ladder option but the ladder would mount over the rear window and thought this may look off.

Been busy since last Friday to say the least. Keep us posted. Joey on this site gave me some great tips to help on some of the things above so reach out and we can share some tips to make installs easier(like the TV in the MBR). Don't mount it where the sticker is or your TV will stick into the door opening--Great thinking Keystone on that one!!)


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Awesome. You will love the room this camper provides. It feels very much like a 5th wheel with the MBR and bathroom configuration. Since picking ours up on Friday we have done the following:
> 
> 1) Installed 24" flat screen in MBR
> 2) Installed 8" wall mounted osciallating fan in MBR
> 3) Installed 2 shelves in each of the MBR closests(why mfr's don't put shelves in these closests is ridiculous. Who brings hanging clothes camping)
> 4) Painted AC shroud and 3 Max Air II vent covers Satin Black to match new color scheme that came on my camper(cream sides and black front cap)
> 5) Installed Vortex fan in Bathroom
> 6) Mounted 15' LED light strip below awning
> 7) Installed 1 shelf in bunkroom hanging closet
> 8) Installed XM satellite Onxy Home System
> 9) Installed TV in Bunkroom
> 10) Will replace the slow power jack with a 3500 Barker VIP I removed from the camper I traded in
> 11) Will be mounting a 20' black slide topper on the super slide. Dometic came out with a new design and hardware that is sleeker looking than current design. Will be ready to ship next week.
> 12) Mounted 2 flag holders to front tongue to display our respective colleges
> 13) Plan to investigate if I can convert the outside kitchen 751 key to a black slam latch style like the exterior compartment has. Will definetly add a non locking latch to the small exterior door next to hot water heater. Who carries a key with them to keep that door closed all the time?
> 14) Installed a 64" black hose carrier under the rear bumper to carry the exterior hoses since there are 2 dump valves
> 15) Purchased a 50 amp female(twisting plug) to 30 amp male so I can use 30 amp as well as my existing 30 amp surge protector.
> 16) Purchased a 12.5' telescoping ladder that I will store under the MBR bed so I can get on the roof when needed at a campsite. Explored the rear ladder option but the ladder would mount over the rear window and thought this may look off.
> 
> Been busy since last Friday to say the least. Keep us posted. Joey on this site gave me some great tips to help on some of the things above so reach out and we can share some tips to make installs easier(like the TV in the MBR). Don't mount it where the sticker is or your TV will stick into the door opening--Great thinking Keystone on that one!!)


Great read. I will be printing this out and tackling mine next week. Luckily (or not), I have that full next week off after we pick it up. I will be doing quite a bit myself. Definitely interested in the slider awning, but afraid of the overall weight.... Have you pulled a good weight yet? For us, I am military and will end up full-timing once I leave here, will leave the family here while I go about my business....

So, 5 days and a wake up and we will be out enjoying ourselves. Look forward to hearing anything you have done.

Cale


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## Cecilt

Cale, did you pick up your 323bh yett?


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Cale, did you pick up your 323bh yett?


Doing it now. Watching them out the Equalizer hitch on and moving on to a walk through. We brought everything to camp tonight. Even have a campground reserved. Will let you know how it goes in a few hours.

Cale


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Cale, did you pick up your 323bh yett?


Picked it up Saturday and went straight to the campground...the only hick-up was the hitch...parts/service did not have an Equalizer hitch, even though I called a few times before Saturday, and someone took it upon themselves to put a round bar Husky WD on. I was not pleased....going back this Friday to get my hitch. Other than that, she is great. A little leery about the wife wanting to use all te storage, she is in heaven. Thinking that we may have to go up an axle/tire/rim/spring size to carry the weight...will have to call Keystone to see if it is kosher for the frame....I am thinking the weak spot is the axles...










When we got home yesterday, I took a moment to crawl around and really inspect it. I noticed on the super slide out (when in the open position) near the outside edge, that the bolts are all slanted...at first, I thought it was just a couple, but it is all of them...not sure if it is on purpose.










Also, hear a sound coming from the upper fridge compartment, my other RV only has one compartment...so I grabbed a ladder and poped it off, there is a computer fan in there, I assume to help dissipate heat...










I will start doing some mods tomorrow. I will probably start with some Maxx Air Vents, and some of the things on your list.

Where did you order the awning for the super slide? I am thinking that is going to be a necessity. I will also be purchasing a ladder too. Do you think the rear bumper is strong enough to hold a few bikes?

Cale


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## Cecilt

Cale said:


> Cale, did you pick up your 323bh yett?


Picked it up Saturday and went straight to the campground...the only hick-up was the hitch...parts/service did not have an Equalizer hitch, even though I called a few times before Saturday, and someone took it upon themselves to put a round bar Husky WD on. I was not pleased....going back this Friday to get my hitch. Other than that, she is great. A little leery about the wife wanting to use all te storage, she is in heaven. Thinking that we may have to go up an axle/tire/rim/spring size to carry the weight...will have to call Keystone to see if it is kosher for the frame....I am thinking the weak spot is the axles...










When we got home yesterday, I took a moment to crawl around and really inspect it. I noticed on the super slide out (when in the open position) near the outside edge, that the bolts are all slanted...at first, I thought it was just a couple, but it is all of them...not sure if it is on purpose.










Also, hear a sound coming from the upper fridge compartment, my other RV only has one compartment...so I grabbed a ladder and poped it off, there is a computer fan in there, I assume to help dissipate heat...










I will start doing some mods tomorrow. I will probably start with some Maxx Air Vents, and some of the things on your list.

Where did you order the awning for the super slide? I am thinking that is going to be a necessity. I will also be purchasing a ladder too. Do you think the rear bumper is strong enough to hold a few bikes?

Cale
[/quote]

I'll check my bolts to see if they are angled as well. Is that fan on the outside behind the top screen or inside of camper?

It took a lot of direct calling to Dometic. They have a new design(more contemporay hardware, stronger roller tube etc). Was told 2 weeks ago the mold for a 252" would be in last week. My dealer called and they said not sure when it will be in. I called next day. Finally got a FIRM answer it could be ordered. My dealer called next day and was given the run around again. He told them they confirmed with me he was good to order it. They checked again and finally gave him pricing and said they could build it. If you order before 12pm they build that day and ship the next. So hopefully my topper is on a truck arriving in VA in the next day or two. The part numbers you will need if you want black is this:

98000FJ.252U-tube and fabric
9800018.401U-45 degree bracket
3309526.006U-cradle
3106774.221-U-rail that attaches to side of camper

Keep me posted and glad you are holding firm on the Equalizer. Let me know how many washers they use. They put 7 in mine.


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> I'll check my bolts to see if they are angled as well. Is that fan on the outside behind the top screen or inside of camper?
> 
> It took a lot of direct calling to Dometic. They have a new design(more contemporay hardware, stronger roller tube etc). Was told 2 weeks ago the mold for a 252" would be in last week. My dealer called and they said not sure when it will be in. I called next day. Finally got a FIRM answer it could be ordered. My dealer called next day and was given the run around again. He told them they confirmed with me he was good to order it. They checked again and finally gave him pricing and said they could build it. If you order before 12pm they build that day and ship the next. So hopefully my topper is on a truck arriving in VA in the next day or two. The part numbers you will need if you want black is this:
> 
> 98000FJ.252U-tube and fabric
> 9800018.401U-45 degree bracket
> 3309526.006U-cradle
> 3106774.221-U-rail that attaches to side of camper
> 
> Keep me posted and glad you are holding firm on the Equalizer. Let me know how many washers they use. They put 7 in mine.


The fan is on the outside looking in at the top cover...

Was called today and told the hitch will be in tomorrow, so I will be putting it on come Friday. What is your TV? I have a feeling I will be doing the fine adjustments myself...there are 14 folks who work in the service center, but only three know what they are doing....my chances, I will be getting the other 11.

We are going to make a decision on the slide topper after we get weighed. The folks on the rv.net forum think the CCC numbers are wrong....they think that with a 1100lb tongue weight, that should give me close to 1500-1700 lbs CCC. I will see what my axle weights are this weekend...hopefully.

Cale


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## CamperAndy

The bolts on the slide are all tilted as they are not in the slide wall above but just inside the wall. To get the bolts through the slide support bar underneath the slide they have to be tilted some. It is normal.

As for the trailer carry capacity. Get it weighed but based on the axles only being 4400 each then I doubt the total weight will be over 10,000 and as such you will be under 1,000 for what you can carry. Tires alone will not fix that issues so you can expect to have to go up to 5000 pound running gear to get any carrying capacity.


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## Cecilt

Cale, I pulled the top cover off on the exterior tonight and I have a large silver shield preventing me to see through the internals. Sounds like yours does not have this as I could not see a fan or really anything for that matter. The slide topper with hardware will weigh about 75 lbs.


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Cale, I pulled the top cover off on the exterior tonight and I have a large silver shield preventing me to see through the internals. Sounds like yours does not have this as I could not see a fan or really anything for that matter. The slide topper with hardware will weigh about 75 lbs.


Yeah, I have that silver shield also....I used my iPhone with the front camera and I was underneath looking....I was only on a 5ft ladder...

Cale


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## Cale

robertized said:


> In reading your post about all of the good things you are doing with your trailer I was wondering about item #15. 15) Purchased a 50 amp female (twisting plug) to 30 amp male so I can use 30 amps as well as my existing 30 amp surge protector. My interest is because we also have a 50A service on our trailer. The 50A service consist of two 120V lines coming into the trailer and is split up in the inside panel where loads are connected. A 30A service consists of one 120V line going to the panel. I know that if there is a second A/C installed on a 50A service that the A/C is always on the second line, so when you use the 30A connection, what other features you would lose if any. Thanks and Good Luck.


I asked this same question during our PDI...I was told that only the 2nd AC was on that leg...how true that is, I don't know, I may be trying it out this weekend.

Cale


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## Cecilt

robertized said:


> Quick follow on questions:
> 
> 1. Is the 50amp service and framed/wired for 2nd A/C standard?
> 50 AMP Service and 2nd A/C framed wired are standard as far as I can tell. Everyone I looked at had it, including ours.
> 
> 2. Is the cargo carrying capacity low due to the puny tires? It looks as though they used the same D rated tires for the whole Outback line....I would most likely immediately go to an LR E tire....
> I think it has to do more with the axle rating. I believe they use the same axles for the 312BH, 323BH, 301BQ. Although I am not 100% sure, that would be my guess. If you go to a LT E rated tire, you may need to upgrade to different rims...Something to keep in mind. $$$$$$
> 
> 3. What is the slide actuation mechanics? (Electric, cable.....etc)
> The large "king slide" is an actuator slide (meaning gears and a motor in the belly), and the kitchen slide is a BAL Accu Slide, which is cable operated. Just had my kitchen slide motor and gearbox completely replaced as the gears somehow got jammed up and wouldn't retract or deploy. I have to say though, the dealer got it fixed quick.


Thanks. We bought one Saturday and will receive it on 20 SEP. We are extremely excited. I will have many more questions...

You are right, it is the axles, I crawled under and the axles are stamped 4400lbs. If it becomes too big of a deal, i may entertain the idea of upgrading axles.....

Cale
[/quote]

Awesome. You will love the room this camper provides. It feels very much like a 5th wheel with the MBR and bathroom configuration. Since picking ours up on Friday we have done the following:

1) Installed 24" flat screen in MBR
2) Installed 8" wall mounted osciallating fan in MBR
3) Installed 2 shelves in each of the MBR closests(why mfr's don't put shelves in these closests is ridiculous. Who brings hanging clothes camping)
4) Painted AC shroud and 3 Max Air II vent covers Satin Black to match new color scheme that came on my camper(cream sides and black front cap)
5) Installed Vortex fan in Bathroom
6) Mounted 15' LED light strip below awning
7) Installed 1 shelf in bunkroom hanging closet
8) Installed XM satellite Onxy Home System
9) Installed TV in Bunkroom
10) Will replace the slow power jack with a 3500 Barker VIP I removed from the camper I traded in
11) Will be mounting a 20' black slide topper on the super slide. Dometic came out with a new design and hardware that is sleeker looking than current design. Will be ready to ship next week.
12) Mounted 2 flag holders to front tongue to display our respective colleges
13) Plan to investigate if I can convert the outside kitchen 751 key to a black slam latch style like the exterior compartment has. Will definetly add a non locking latch to the small exterior door next to hot water heater. Who carries a key with them to keep that door closed all the time? 
14) Installed a 64" black hose carrier under the rear bumper to carry the exterior hoses since there are 2 dump valves
15) Purchased a 50 amp female(twisting plug) to 30 amp male so I can use 30 amp as well as my existing 30 amp surge protector. 
16) Purchased a 12.5' telescoping ladder that I will store under the MBR bed so I can get on the roof when needed at a campsite. Explored the rear ladder option but the ladder would mount over the rear window and thought this may look off.

Been busy since last Friday to say the least. Keep us posted. Joey on this site gave me some great tips to help on some of the things above so reach out and we can share some tips to make installs easier(like the TV in the MBR). Don't mount it where the sticker is or your TV will stick into the door opening--Great thinking Keystone on that one!!)
[/quote]

In reading your post about all of the good things you are doing with your trailer I was wondering about item #15. 15) Purchased a 50 amp female (twisting plug) to 30 amp male so I can use 30 amps as well as my existing 30 amp surge protector. My interest is because we also have a 50A service on our trailer. The 50A service consist of two 120V lines coming into the trailer and is split up in the inside panel where loads are connected. A 30A service consists of one 120V line going to the panel. I know that if there is a second A/C installed on a 50A service that the A/C is always on the second line, so when you use the 30A connection, what other features you would lose if any. Thanks and Good Luck.
[/quote]

Cale, this is what I bought. 50 amp to 30 amp

I plug this into the camper then run a 30 amp extension cord from the male end of this adapter to my 30 amp surge protector that I plug into shore power at the site. I did not want to lug around the 50 amp cord and actually I have the 50 amp cord sitting in my basement. The only advantage I guess to the 50 amp is you can run hairdryer, microwave and AC at same time. That is certainly rare in our camper so 30 amp serves us fine. If you add the second AC and run BOTH AC's then you will need 50 amp. If you install 2nd AC but only run one unit you can do this off the 30 amp.

Another reason I want to use the 30 amp is I already had the portable surge protector. I did not want to spend $300+ on a 50 amp surge protector when I may never use 50 amp.


----------



## Good Times

Can you please post a picture of the LED strip you are using under the awning? Also the details of hookup and where you purchased the LEDs from. Thanks!


----------



## Cale

Cecilt,

Thanks for the info thus far...Have you hooked up both sewer connections at the same time? I am in a quandary about hose routing...I have sat there and come up with three -four different ways. We may be full timing in the Outback come December...for 18 months, so lugging around the cord is a moot point. Unfortunately, the park we will be in is a 30 amp only park, so I will be getting a surge protector and monitor the power going into the trailer. Since it doesn't get too hot here (Monterey, CA) to run the AC a lot, we aren't too stressed about it...we will though when we head back east in 2015.

I am interested in the LED light strip also. I found the owners manual for the awning and it mentioned the accessory, but when I crawled up to the right side where the wires were, I did not see an option to put one.

Did you get a build sheet for your TT? I have looked all through the books I was given, there was nothing from Keystone concerning manufacturers warranty, etc...with my Fleetwood, there was a very general handbook, then all the specific manuals. Would be nice to have, even if just for Keystone numbers...

Thanks


----------



## Cecilt

Cale, this is what I bought for the sewer hose storage:

Sewer Hose Storage

I bought this Y adapter when I want to hook up both outlets at the same time:

Y Adapter

I bought 2 sets of these at Walmart for $30/set:

Camco 20' Sewer hose kit

Here is my strategy. When I am at a state park that does not have dumping at a site but a dump station I will pull up to the dump station. I already have a 15' Rhino that I keep in the bumper. I pull this out and dump the black/gray valve first. Take hose off and dump the single gray. Go home.

If I am on vacation I will leave the Rhino hose at home. I will bring the 2 20' sections of hose( I actually have another 10' as well). I will hook up to both valves and use the above Y connector and attach the fitting(this comes with the Camco Sewer hose kit) that inserts into the sewer hole.

I mounted the 64" hose carrier with 36" zip ties above the bumper. you can't mount it below or you wont have access to the grill propane line.

I ordered a 15' 300 LED waterproof light strip from Amazon. It comes with a 42 function remote. About $20. Can change colors. I applied 3m double sided tape to it(tape that comes with kit that is already attached is junk. Just applied my tape over it). Ran it right under the awning gutter. I did not hard wire it. You can get the kit with lights that comes with the plug. I have some velcro on the side of my camper that I stick the IR sensor to and it plugs into the 120V adapter. This plugs into the outlet on the side of the camper. Since i have these postitioned next to the awning bracket you really can't see them and would think they were hard wired. I can try to snap a photo this weekend while camping.


----------



## joeymac

Cale said:


> Cale, did you pick up your 323bh yett?


Picked it up Saturday and went straight to the campground...the only hick-up was the hitch...parts/service did not have an Equalizer hitch, even though I called a few times before Saturday, and someone took it upon themselves to put a round bar Husky WD on. I was not pleased....going back this Friday to get my hitch. Other than that, she is great. A little leery about the wife wanting to use all te storage, she is in heaven. Thinking that we may have to go up an axle/tire/rim/spring size to carry the weight...will have to call Keystone to see if it is kosher for the frame....I am thinking the weak spot is the axles...

When we got home yesterday, I took a moment to crawl around and really inspect it. I noticed on the super slide out (when in the open position) near the outside edge, that the bolts are all slanted...at first, I thought it was just a couple, but it is all of them...not sure if it is on purpose.

Also, hear a sound coming from the upper fridge compartment, my other RV only has one compartment...so I grabbed a ladder and poped it off, there is a computer fan in there, I assume to help dissipate heat...

I will start doing some mods tomorrow. I will probably start with some Maxx Air Vents, and some of the things on your list.

Where did you order the awning for the super slide? I am thinking that is going to be a necessity. I will also be purchasing a ladder too. Do you think the rear bumper is strong enough to hold a few bikes?

Cale
[/quote]

Cale:
I wouldn't attach a bike rack to the bumper. I went on a couple different forums including this one as asked if anyone removed the factory installed hitch from their new Outback. 
Someone PM'd me a few days later and said they did. We agreed on a fair price and they shipped the hitch to me. I took it to a weld shop and had them weld the perfectly sized hitch to my new 323BH. You could also go this route if no one has one for sale. Weld on Class 4 Receiver

I personally almost ripped my bumper off of my 2011 OB 312BH once by using one of those bolt on receivers and a bike rack attached to the bumper. Keystone only tack welds the bumper to the frame and uses marginally thick steel in those bumpers.


----------



## Cale

joeymac said:


> Cale:
> I wouldn't attach a bike rack to the bumper. I went on a couple different forums including this one as asked if anyone removed the factory installed hitch from their new Outback.
> Someone PM'd me a few days later and said they did. We agreed on a fair price and they shipped the hitch to me. I took it to a weld shop and had them weld the perfectly sized hitch to my new 323BH. You could also go this route if no one has one for sale. Weld on Class 4 Receiver
> 
> I personally almost ripped my bumper off of my 2011 OB 312BH once by using one of those bolt on receivers and a bike rack attached to the bumper. Keystone only tack welds the bumper to the frame and uses marginally thick steel in those bumpers.


Yep, thought that also...went out to the trailer today to move it near our house for this weekend and took a look at it...I think the spare tire being on there is about good enough and nothing more should go on there. With the tire itself, it wiggles quite a bit (looks like a hitch pin holding it vertical), so hope it doesn't torque itself off.

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Slide topper is being installed over super slide today. Also, adding a turn latch to the small baggage door so I can keep it shut without having to lock it. Adding a rail on side of camper to hang a table I had with my Rockwood. I accidentally kept the table when I traded in my TT amongst many other things


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Slide topper is being installed over super slide today. Also, adding a turn latch to the small baggage door so I can keep it shut without having to lock it. Adding a rail on side of camper to hang a table I had with my Rockwood. I accidentally kept the table when I traded in my TT amongst many other things


Awesome! Pics once installed. I wished all the doors had the slam latches like the front right storage, it feels like it has substance.

I left the fridge on to see how long it would last (my other trailer would go about nine days before the battery needed some attention), well, three days and the battery was drained. I blame it on the 12v fan in the upper fridge compartment. I may put a solar panel that can produce enough juice to at least keep up with that fan. I like to get the fridge going a couple of days before we head out...

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Cale said:


> Slide topper is being installed over super slide today. Also, adding a turn latch to the small baggage door so I can keep it shut without having to lock it. Adding a rail on side of camper to hang a table I had with my Rockwood. I accidentally kept the table when I traded in my TT amongst many other things


Awesome! Pics once installed. I wished all the doors had the slam latches like the front right storage, it feels like it has substance.

I left the fridge on to see how long it would last (my other trailer would go about nine days before the battery needed some attention), well, three days and the battery was drained. I blame it on the 12v fan in the upper fridge compartment. I may put a solar panel that can produce enough juice to at least keep up with that fan. I like to get the fridge going a couple of days before we head out...

Cale
[/quote]

Will do. I rarely run anything without being hooked up to shore. I bring camper home night before we leave and plug into an adapter on my house outlet so I can power the camper(not AC mind you) but everything else. Maybe the battery was low to begin with. Could have been sitting in dealers garage for a few months. I would give it a good charge and make sure fluids are topped off.


----------



## Cecilt

Kitchen slide broke today. Sticking out about 3" from camper. Won't retract all the way and won't open but a few inches. Joey on here had a kitchen slide break as well. I think he needed a new motor. Cale, I hope yours lasts. Ruined my upcoming weekend now.


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Kitchen slide broke today. Sticking out about 3" from camper. Won't retract all the way and won't open but a few inches. Joey on here had a kitchen slide break as well. I think he needed a new motor. Cale, I hope yours lasts. Ruined my upcoming weekend now.


Hmmm, I was running out a little bit to get the fridge door opened today and it was making a groaning sound. Didn't think too much if it. I hope it holds though...


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Kitchen slide broke today. Sticking out about 3" from camper. Won't retract all the way and won't open but a few inches. Joey on here had a kitchen slide break as well. I think he needed a new motor. Cale, I hope yours lasts. Ruined my upcoming weekend now.


Good and bad news...

The good news is that video shows the kitchen type of slide (cables). The bad news, I did ask the Gentleman doing my walk through, he said you have to remove the facia above the fridge (it shod all come down) and there is something up there to crank. It should use the stabilizer jack handle. He also mentioned loosening the cables, but do not take them off, under great tension. Must have someone push from the outside and then put something between the slide and the wall to keep from coming out while driving down the road.


----------



## joeymac

Cale said:


> Kitchen slide broke today. Sticking out about 3" from camper. Won't retract all the way and won't open but a few inches. Joey on here had a kitchen slide break as well. I think he needed a new motor. Cale, I hope yours lasts. Ruined my upcoming weekend now.


Good and bad news...

The good news is that video shows the kitchen type of slide (cables). The bad news, I did ask the Gentleman doing my walk through, he said you have to remove the facia above the fridge (it shod all come down) and there is something up there to crank. It should use the stabilizer jack handle. He also mentioned loosening the cables, but do not take them off, under great tension. Must have someone push from the outside and then put something between the slide and the wall to keep from coming out while driving down the road.
[/quote]

Cale:
Here is what mine did before the failure. I noticed before they replaced the slide motor and gearbox that the Cable / Chain connector kept hitting the slide motor when bringing it in. It made a pretty loud noise when it struck the motor. Since I have never owned a trailer with the BAL Accuslide, I assumed it was normal operating procedure. I am guessing that these cables are not properly adjusted when they leave the factory. Having the Cable / Chain connector keep hitting the motor when it was bringing in the slide, is what I am guessing caused the gears to finally strip out in the gearbox. I am sure that there are just plastic gears in there, and that amount of jarring every time the cable / chain connector kept striking the motor and the abrupt pause even if for a split second was enough to break them over time. Didn't realize how sensitive that system is. Now I know !

Once they put the new motor and gearbox in, and properly adjusted the Cable / Chain connector, it does not hit the motor anymore when bringing in the slide. Everything seems to be working as it should at the moment. Very frustrating when the slide quits working after you have owned the camper for only a month !!!!


----------



## Cecilt

robertized said:


> Maby this will help till you can get it fixed and save your trip. http://www.youtube.c...player_embedded Good Luck.


Thanks Robertized. Tried the manual crank method. Same result as pushing the button. Sounds like clutch is slipping. Imagine using a drill with attachment to raise and lower stab jacks. If you let the attachment spin on the nut this is the noise the slide makes once you get it within 3" of clawing or about 5" opening it up. So it will go about 5" out and slip and come in about 3" and slope as well.


----------



## Cale

joeymac said:


> Kitchen slide broke today. Sticking out about 3" from camper. Won't retract all the way and won't open but a few inches. Joey on here had a kitchen slide break as well. I think he needed a new motor. Cale, I hope yours lasts. Ruined my upcoming weekend now.


Good and bad news...

The good news is that video shows the kitchen type of slide (cables). The bad news, I did ask the Gentleman doing my walk through, he said you have to remove the facia above the fridge (it shod all come down) and there is something up there to crank. It should use the stabilizer jack handle. He also mentioned loosening the cables, but do not take them off, under great tension. Must have someone push from the outside and then put something between the slide and the wall to keep from coming out while driving down the road.
[/quote]

Cale:
Here is what mine did before the failure. I noticed before they replaced the slide motor and gearbox that the Cable / Chain connector kept hitting the slide motor when bringing it in. It made a pretty loud noise when it struck the motor. Since I have never owned a trailer with the BAL Accuslide, I assumed it was normal operating procedure. I am guessing that these cables are not properly adjusted when they leave the factory. Having the Cable / Chain connector keep hitting the motor when it was bringing in the slide, is what I am guessing caused the gears to finally strip out in the gearbox. I am sure that there are just plastic gears in there, and that amount of jarring every time the cable / chain connector kept striking the motor and the abrupt pause even if for a split second was enough to break them over time. Didn't realize how sensitive that system is. Now I know !

Once they put the new motor and gearbox in, and properly adjusted the Cable / Chain connector, it does not hit the motor anymore when bringing in the slide. Everything seems to be working as it should at the moment. Very frustrating when the slide quits working after you have owned the camper for only a month !!!!
[/quote]

Good to know, I will take a look at it Friday morning before I head to the dealer to get my hitch. The adjustment shouldn't take a lot of time?? They have to fix the seal in my toilet bowl also, it is not holding water....


----------



## Cale

robertized said:


> Cale here is a link to the down load page for the Owners Manuel. http://www.keystoner...e/owners-manual
> 
> Here is some information on the awnings. http://www.dometic.c...allation_EN.pdf
> 
> Here is a thread on the LED awning lights. http://www.outbacker...ED&fromsearch=1
> 
> Good Luck.
> 
> PS here is another choice on a 20' hose option. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/easy-slip-travel-pack-20/18594


Is there another link for the manual? That link gives me a 404 error


----------



## CamperAndy

Cale said:


> Cale here is a link to the down load page for the Owners Manuel. http://www.keystoner...e/owners-manual
> 
> Here is some information on the awnings. http://www.dometic.c...allation_EN.pdf
> 
> Here is a thread on the LED awning lights. http://www.outbacker...ED&fromsearch=1
> 
> Good Luck.
> 
> PS here is another choice on a 20' hose option. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/easy-slip-travel-pack-20/18594


Is there another link for the manual? That link gives me a 404 error
[/quote]

The links all work for me. Here is the full address if you want to try and type it in.

www.keystonerv.com/customer-service/owners-manual


----------



## Cale

CamperAndy said:


> Cale here is a link to the down load page for the Owners Manuel. http://www.keystoner...e/owners-manual
> 
> Here is some information on the awnings. http://www.dometic.c...allation_EN.pdf
> 
> Here is a thread on the LED awning lights. http://www.outbacker...ED&fromsearch=1
> 
> Good Luck.
> 
> PS here is another choice on a 20' hose option. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/easy-slip-travel-pack-20/18594


Is there another link for the manual? That link gives me a 404 error
[/quote]

The links all work for me. Here is the full address if you want to try and type it in.

www.keystonerv.com/customer-service/owners-manual
[/quote]

Thanks, that worked like a champ. My Mac has been acting up lately...six years, may be time for a new one.

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Kitchen slide needs a new motor and gears as well as have cables adjusted. Same diagnosis and repair as Joey. Pretty disappointing if you ask me. Cale, check yours good. If the cable bracket hits the motor while sliding in and out you will be in the same boat in about a month as Joey and I were. Good luck.


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Kitchen slide needs a new motor and gears as well as have cables adjusted. Same diagnosis and repair as Joey. Pretty disappointing if you ask me. Cale, check yours good. If the cable bracket hits the motor while sliding in and out you will be in the same boat in about a month as Joey and I were. Good luck.


Thanks for the info. I will have the dealer take a look tomorrow while I am up there. I wonder what is involved with an adjustment? I wonder if this is is going to be the norm as they come from the factory...should these slides get an annual adjustment? This is my first trailer with a slide.

What is your turn around time to get fixed?

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Cale said:


> Kitchen slide needs a new motor and gears as well as have cables adjusted. Same diagnosis and repair as Joey. Pretty disappointing if you ask me. Cale, check yours good. If the cable bracket hits the motor while sliding in and out you will be in the same boat in about a month as Joey and I were. Good luck.


Thanks for the info. I will have the dealer take a look tomorrow while I am up there. I wonder what is involved with an adjustment? I wonder if this is is going to be the norm as they come from the factory...should these slides get an annual adjustment? This is my first trailer with a slide.

What is your turn around time to get fixed?

Cale
[/quote]

Not 100% sure but should have back next week. Pre authorization with keystone has been done so matter of CW's warranty manager to authorize order of parts. I expect they will order parts tomorrow and I will have back no later than Thursday but I am going to stay on them and set expectations. After all I just bought it on 9/6. Can't miss a third weekend in a row camping. Major withdrawals already.


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Kitchen slide needs a new motor and gears as well as have cables adjusted. Same diagnosis and repair as Joey. Pretty disappointing if you ask me. Cale, check yours good. If the cable bracket hits the motor while sliding in and out you will be in the same boat in about a month as Joey and I were. Good luck.


Thanks for the info. I will have the dealer take a look tomorrow while I am up there. I wonder what is involved with an adjustment? I wonder if this is is going to be the norm as they come from the factory...should these slides get an annual adjustment? This is my first trailer with a slide.

What is your turn around time to get fixed?

Cale
[/quote]

Not 100% sure but should have back next week. Pre authorization with keystone has been done so matter of CW's warranty manager to authorize order of parts. I expect they will order parts tomorrow and I will have back no later than Thursday but I am going to stay on them and set expectations. After all I just bought it on 9/6. Can't miss a third weekend in a row camping. Major withdrawals already.
[/quote]

I have mine out this weekend...also had my Equalizer installed today....WOW! A huge step from my old Reese with friction sway. I have to fine tune it and go through it to be sure they did it right....they seemed quite baffled at the process of installation. I have five washers in mine currently.

I took a look at my kitchen slide...here are some pics:




























The cables look good to me...I had a thought about the slide motor...it seems to strain if you hold it until it stops (in or out). Today, I took it in and out just until it touches. Maybe the motor is straining against itself.

I had them look at the toilet today, the bowl won't hold water, they said they fuzzed with it, but it is still a no go...will have them do it again later on.

Question about the tv and stereo...when watching regular TV, can you get it to play on the ceiling speakers? I see the audio out connected in the back, but it have tried all the modes...no joy. I am thinking of pulling out the stereo to check the wires....may wait to do that when I run the cables for the DirecTV box.

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Cale said:


> Kitchen slide needs a new motor and gears as well as have cables adjusted. Same diagnosis and repair as Joey. Pretty disappointing if you ask me. Cale, check yours good. If the cable bracket hits the motor while sliding in and out you will be in the same boat in about a month as Joey and I were. Good luck.


Thanks for the info. I will have the dealer take a look tomorrow while I am up there. I wonder what is involved with an adjustment? I wonder if this is is going to be the norm as they come from the factory...should these slides get an annual adjustment? This is my first trailer with a slide.

What is your turn around time to get fixed?

Cale
[/quote]

Not 100% sure but should have back next week. Pre authorization with keystone has been done so matter of CW's warranty manager to authorize order of parts. I expect they will order parts tomorrow and I will have back no later than Thursday but I am going to stay on them and set expectations. After all I just bought it on 9/6. Can't miss a third weekend in a row camping. Major withdrawals already.
[/quote]

I have mine out this weekend...also had my Equalizer installed today....WOW! A huge step from my old Reese with friction sway. I have to fine tune it and go through it to be sure they did it right....they seemed quite baffled at the process of installation. I have five washers in mine currently.

I took a look at my kitchen slide...here are some pics:




























The cables look good to me...I had a thought about the slide motor...it seems to strain if you hold it until it stops (in or out). Today, I took it in and out just until it touches. Maybe the motor is straining against itself.

I had them look at the toilet today, the bowl won't hold water, they said they fuzzed with it, but it is still a no go...will have them do it again later on.

Question about the tv and stereo...when watching regular TV, can you get it to play on the ceiling speakers? I see the audio out connected in the back, but it have tried all the modes...no joy. I am thinking of pulling out the stereo to check the wires....may wait to do that when I run the cables for the DirecTV box.

Cale
[/quote]

Just make sure that the one bracket sitting over the motor is not hitting the motor as it moves in and out. If it is not you might be good. Not sure on TV. don't watch it much but my guess is it only plays through the TV speakers and not living room ceiling speakers. A DVD might play through the ceiling speakers though so let me know what you find out. Are you gong to weigh this weekend?

I have 7 washers. I have a 2009 ford f-250, v-10, crew cab, 4x4, short bed. My brackets are at the very bottom two holes. Bars are parallel. Pulls great. Hard to get bars on and off if at an angle and I hate the ball latch piñon this camper. Sometimes impossible to lock/unlock.


----------



## KTMRacer

Cale said:


> I'll check my bolts to see if they are angled as well. Is that fan on the outside behind the top screen or inside of camper?
> 
> It took a lot of direct calling to Dometic. They have a new design(more contemporay hardware, stronger roller tube etc). Was told 2 weeks ago the mold for a 252" would be in last week. My dealer called and they said not sure when it will be in. I called next day. Finally got a FIRM answer it could be ordered. My dealer called next day and was given the run around again. He told them they confirmed with me he was good to order it. They checked again and finally gave him pricing and said they could build it. If you order before 12pm they build that day and ship the next. So hopefully my topper is on a truck arriving in VA in the next day or two. The part numbers you will need if you want black is this:
> 
> 98000FJ.252U-tube and fabric
> 9800018.401U-45 degree bracket
> 3309526.006U-cradle
> 3106774.221-U-rail that attaches to side of camper
> 
> Keep me posted and glad you are holding firm on the Equalizer. Let me know how many washers they use. They put 7 in mine.


The fan is on the outside looking in at the top cover...

Was called today and told the hitch will be in tomorrow, so I will be putting it on come Friday. What is your TV? I have a feeling I will be doing the fine adjustments myself...there are 14 folks who work in the service center, but only three know what they are doing....my chances, I will be getting the other 11.

We are going to make a decision on the slide topper after we get weighed. The folks on the rv.net forum think the CCC numbers are wrong....they think that with a 1100lb tongue weight, that should give me close to 1500-1700 lbs CCC. I will see what my axle weights are this weekend...hopefully.

Cale
[/quote]

GVWR for trailers is the sum of axle and tongue weight. CCC is GVWR - empty weight. Empty weight is axle weight + tongue weight. or CCC =GVWR-axles weight - tongue weight. In theory your not supposed to exceed that. But if you do, make sure your ok on axle weight at the very least. BTW CCC assumes full propane tanks, so if you look at your CCC sticker and do the calculations I show, you'll likely see a 60lb difference (higher) CCC than shown on the door yellow sticker.

The 4400lb axles seem to be a mismash of parts. Based on conversations with Alko they appear to be a 5200lb tube, 10" brakes instead of 12" on the 5200's, 2200lb springs (per side) and a spindle and bearings that are unique. Bigger than typical 3500lb axles, but not the spindle on 5200,6000lb axles. And a 6 lug hub like on the 5200, 6000lb axles instead of the 3500lb 5 lug.

And FYI, unless they have changed, the Keystone 6 lug alloy wheels are rated for E range tires, 2800lbs+ so when I went to LRE Maxxis on my 295RE I upped the tire pressure to 80psi.

so, in theory, you could drop in a set of 5200lb axles and go to a LRE tire and have lots of axle margin for the axles and tires even if you go over GVWR.

Course legally it still doesn't change the GVWR, but would give you more axle load margin if your pushing the axle load limit.

And I can guarantee you, that give all the storage space, if it's at all like our 295RE, it isn't hard to add a ton (literally) of cargo weight. In fact, it is WAY to easy especially if you want to travel with full fresh or full black/grey tanks.

personally I wonder how much of the GVWR is set by design limitations vs. marketing "limitations" so they can say "1/2 ton" towable. if they push the GVWR over the 9K range or so, it puts it out of range of many 1/2 tons. I still find it funny that any mfg calls a 9,000lb GVWR trailer "super light weight" or even "lightweight"!!!!

On our 295RE, when they kept the same trailer and added a bedroom slide (298RE), empty weight went up by 400lbs, AND "magically" GVWR went up by the same 400lbs so the CCC remained the same. Same axles, same frame, same tires, etc.


----------



## Cecilt

So it is possible to just swap in 5200 lb axles and use the same springs and wheels. I assume it would be axles plus the brakes. What is approximate cost of a pair of axles fully assembled. I wonder? Since we don't carry water in the tank or gray or black water we are probably okay. Close but okay. But if not a bad price I would consider swapping them out.


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> So it is possible to just swap in 5200 lb axles and use the same springs and wheels. I assume it would be axles plus the brakes. What is approximate cost of a pair of axles fully assembled. I wonder? Since we don't carry water in the tank or gray or black water we are probably okay. Close but okay. But if not a bad price I would consider swapping them out.


If they are the 5200 lb tubes.....changing the spindles, springs, and brakes should do it...I did find this place, Trailer Parts, they look to be in Dallas, TX. All total, parts/labor...probably $2000. A small price for such a useable/nice trailer. Still boggles my mind why there are such anemic axles in here, but we love it.

I wonder if Keystone were to make the change if they would change the weight sticker? I only ask because Fleetwood did that to me. My TH had such low clearance with the factory tires and it was tearing the wheel wells up, they sent me a new sticker to put over the other sticker. It had smaller tires, which equated to less CCC.

Cecilt,
Probable won't weigh this weekend, I housed around with my week if leave and work is fast approaching, but it was nice to have a full five days off...

When I hook up tomorrow, I will be doing the measurements in the EQ install book to get a better idea of if the five washers will be enough or not...they also put the L-brackets with two holes above/below, but my bars are slightly above parallel. I may have to spend a Saturday night at a truck-stop and just keep running across the scales. My TV is a 2005 Chevy Silverado 2500, D/A, 4x4, Crew Cab, Short Bed. I did replace the worn factory shocks with the Rancho adjustable shocks, I tow on max setting. I will be looking to add some airbags one day.

The furnace works like a champ in here....it is 48 outside (Santa Cruz, CA) and it is keeping it pretty comfortable.

We sat outside last night and made dinner...had a tremendous amount of people stop to take a look at the kitchen and the grill. The grill is great, but the hose I have is pretty short, have to cook behind the trailer, will be getting a longer one.

A project on the horizon is the dinette table. I hate how it wobbles, need to find a fix before the kids tear it out of the floor.

Cale


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> I took a look at my kitchen slide...here are some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cables look good to me...I had a thought about the slide motor...it seems to strain if you hold it until it stops (in or out). Today, I took it in and out just until it touches. Maybe the motor is straining against itself.
> 
> Cale
> 
> Just make sure that the one bracket sitting over the motor is not hitting the motor as it moves in and out. If it is not you might be good. Not sure on TV. don't watch it much but my guess is it only plays through the TV speakers and not living room ceiling speakers. A DVD might play through the ceiling speakers though so let me know what you find out. Are you gong to weigh this weekend?


Those little white things on the ends if the brackets are spongy, so I do not think they will cause any problems. I reached up to turn one and I had to take a double take, it was not what I was expecting it to feel like.

Cale


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## Cecilt

I'll hang on to my $2k if that is what it will cost and just be prudent when packing for a vacation. I actually use a sidekick grill. It fits on the counter top of outside kitchen and can slide under the cabinets. The grill that came with the camper was too tall. Downside is the 5' hose was too short. Went to lowes and bought a 10' hose and a connector to attach the quick connect from the old hose to new hose. All good now.


----------



## KTMRacer

Cecilt said:


> So it is possible to just swap in 5200 lb axles and use the same springs and wheels. I assume it would be axles plus the brakes. What is approximate cost of a pair of axles fully assembled. I wonder? Since we don't carry water in the tank or gray or black water we are probably okay. Close but okay. But if not a bad price I would consider swapping them out.


swapping xles w/o the springs wouldn't do much, yes you have more axle capaciy but the springs are the limiting factor then. Also springs are cheap about $30 each. And you need new brake assembly and drums, 12" as well since the spindles are different and won't fit the existing 10" drums.

spindles are welded to the axle tube so keeping the existing tube and new spindles isn't practical either.

Lowest cost way to do it is to buy whole new dual axle assy rather than piece by piece. Call around, pices for the same axle are all over the place, some places want to charge "retail" others will give you a big discount.


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## CamperAndy

Cecilt said:


> I'll hang on to my $2k if that is what it will cost and just be prudent when packing for a vacation. I actually use a sidekick grill. It fits on the counter top of outside kitchen and can slide under the cabinets. The grill that came with the camper was too tall. Downside is the 5' hose was too short. Went to lowes and bought a 10' hose and a connector to attach the quick connect from the old hose to new hose. All good now.


Do it yourself if you are handy, have a flat spot to work and a friend or two that also enjoy camping. Easy job for a saturday. Saves you more than half of what you would pay a shop to do it for.


----------



## Cale

CamperAndy said:


> I'll hang on to my $2k if that is what it will cost and just be prudent when packing for a vacation. I actually use a sidekick grill. It fits on the counter top of outside kitchen and can slide under the cabinets. The grill that came with the camper was too tall. Downside is the 5' hose was too short. Went to lowes and bought a 10' hose and a connector to attach the quick connect from the old hose to new hose. All good now.


Do it yourself if you are handy, have a flat spot to work and a friend or two that also enjoy camping. Easy job for a saturday. Saves you more than half of what you would pay a shop to do it for.
[/quote]

Cecilt,

He is right. I figured high end of labor. I would do mine myself, but I am in school working on my masters for the next 18 months, plus all my tools are in FL. If you look under the trailer, everything can be off in about an hour. Everything for parts would run about $1000. That would include the Dexter EZ Flex system. I am seriously thinking about doing after the first of the year. I will let you what I find out.

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Cale said:


> I'll hang on to my $2k if that is what it will cost and just be prudent when packing for a vacation. I actually use a sidekick grill. It fits on the counter top of outside kitchen and can slide under the cabinets. The grill that came with the camper was too tall. Downside is the 5' hose was too short. Went to lowes and bought a 10' hose and a connector to attach the quick connect from the old hose to new hose. All good now.


Do it yourself if you are handy, have a flat spot to work and a friend or two that also enjoy camping. Easy job for a saturday. Saves you more than half of what you would pay a shop to do it for.
[/quote]

Cecilt,

He is right. I figured high end of labor. I would do mine myself, but I am in school working on my masters for the next 18 months, plus all my tools are in FL. If you look under the trailer, everything can be off in about an hour. Everything for parts would run about $1000. That would include the Dexter EZ Flex system. I am seriously thinking about doing after the first of the year. I will let you what I find out.

Cale
[/quote]

I would spend $1k if that got me all the pars and labor to do it. Keep me posted o what you find out for parts. Tks


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## Cecilt

Looks like all the parts can be sourced for about $1k. If a shop can do this in 2 hours probably looking at $1200. Sell the old axles and brakes and springs for $400- $500 and this might be a doable option.


----------



## KTMRacer

Cecilt said:


> Looks like all the parts can be sourced for about $1k. If a shop can do this in 2 hours probably looking at $1200. Sell the old axles and brakes and springs for $400- $500 and this might be a doable option.


Here is a hint to save some time and agrivation in making sure you get the exact axle you need if you decide to go with new axles. Crawl under the trailer and there is a serial number and and maybe some other numbers on the existing axle. Give that to whomever you order axles from. With that info they can make sure you get an axle set with the correct length, spring dimensions (width and length) flange to flange spacing, bolt center, number of lugs etc. Otherwise you'll need to take the wheel off (and maybe the drums) to make those measurements yourself.

and as long as your taking the axles off, go ahead and fix the other weak link. lack of "wet bolts" and the flimsy side plates on the spring shackles. Install dexter/alko wet bolt kit with the heavy duty side plates. IMHO no need for the dexter ezflex, the alko or mor ride that is already on there is plenty good. Lots of debate as to which brand is better, but they are all way better than a stock equalizer setup.


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## Cale

Another project that will need tending to will be the air con system/vents. It was only 82 here yesterday, but the air con ran the whole day with it set on 72... I did pop the inlet off and it looked taped up pretty well, but the flow through the vents is a little anemic. Yes, we were out in the sun (no shade) and the front cap was pretty hot, but the 15k btu air con should have done the trick pretty quick. I did remove the vent in the bunk room, the duct keeps going aft, I will drop it back down and block it off aft so that cold air is not being wasted and maybe add another vent to the trunk. I have read a couple threads about adding one, seems very easy and painless. I will also look to put a closeable vent in the restroom, it was pretty cold in there....will also do one in the master bedroom, in addition to a second air con for when we go to Vegas, then ultimately back to FL.

Cecilt, I know you got that big awning topper. How does it look? I know it would cut down on heat, but with it as big as it is, how will it do in windy conditions?

On the bright side, the heat system works like a champ...wished there was a heat vent in the restroom, froze my buns getting out of the shower this morning, while the rest of the spaces were comfortable...

Thoughts on a kitchen fan...any idea if there are wires near the kitchen ceiling vent for a MaxxAir vent with fan? That would be key, especially when cooking something with odors, would evacuate a lot quicker than the stove vent fan.

Cale


----------



## KTMRacer

Cale said:


> Another project that will need tending to will be the air con system/vents. It was only 82 here yesterday, but the air con ran the whole day with it set on 72... I did pop the inlet off and it looked taped up pretty well, but the flow through the vents is a little anemic. Yes, we were out in the sun (no shade) and the front cap was pretty hot, but the 15k btu air con should have done the trick pretty quick. I did remove the vent in the bunk room, the duct keeps going aft, I will drop it back down and block it off aft so that cold air is not being wasted and maybe add another vent to the trunk. I have read a couple threads about adding one, seems very easy and painless. I will also look to put a closeable vent in the restroom, it was pretty cold in there....will also do one in the master bedroom, in addition to a second air con for when we go to Vegas, then ultimately back to FL.
> 
> Cecilt, I know you got that big awning topper. How does it look? I know it would cut down on heat, but with it as big as it is, how will it do in windy conditions?
> 
> On the bright side, the heat system works like a champ...wished there was a heat vent in the restroom, froze my buns getting out of the shower this morning, while the rest of the spaces were comfortable...
> 
> Thoughts on a kitchen fan...any idea if there are wires near the kitchen ceiling vent for a MaxxAir vent with fan? That would be key, especially when cooking something with odors, would evacuate a lot quicker than the stove vent fan.
> 
> Cale


For the AC your on the right track. Trailers this size are pretty marginal for a single AC. However, much improvment over "as delivered" performance is possible. Here is what I did on our 295RE and it should help your situation as well.

First, as you did, drop the AC plenum and open up the openings to the ducting as much as possible and then seal all unwanted stuff up with the aluminum duct tape.
Next, I recomend getting rid of the existing ceiling vents and replacing them with "aireport" vents available online. The are a drop in replacement, but the direct air horizontally 360 degreees AND you can easily go from "full on" to "full off" with them.
Second, for each vent, drop the cover and use the same aluminum tape to make sure the duct is sealed to the ceiling so no air goes into the attic..
Third, add a bunch more of the aireport vents into the duct. In our 295RE I added one more in the bedroom, one in the bathroom and two in the living area. You'll likely find the ducting goes way past the last vent on each run, simply add a duct at the end of each run. You can cut the holes with a holesaw or a circle cutter bit on a variable speed cordless drill.
You'll end up with way more airflow, and if you want to cool the living area quicker, shut off the bedroom or vice versa.

And on the kitchen. IF your trailer layout and wiring is anything similar to the 295RE, what you'll find is that if you pull out the microwave, you'll find multiple hot 12V feeds behind it. One is to the stove fan/light etc. But any one will do. Then when you replace the vent with a fan, cut a 1" dia or so hole in the ceiling behind the microwave, and use a snake from the ceiling vent to the microwave to pull a wire and connect it to one of the hot runs behind the microwave. OR, if you don't want to do that, run a wire to one of the ceiling lights near the vent. the issue with that is the the ceiling light main swith will also control the fan power.


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## Cecilt

KTMRacer, is the the vent replacement you are referring to.:

My link

For the 323bh layout I think an additional vent in MBR, living room and bunk room will be great and close off or reduce airflow into the bathroom.


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## KTMRacer

Cecilt said:


> KTMRacer, is the the vent replacement you are referring to.:
> 
> My link
> 
> For the 323bh layout I think an additional vent in MBR, living room and bunk room will be great and close off or reduce airflow into the bathroom.


yup, that's it and the ad isn't hype. IMHO they are way better than the typical vent. First they area easy to close off, Second, by directing the air 360 degrees you don't get a cold blast in only one direction. Third, they are a direct replacement for most factory vents.

And Robertized spacer between the ceiling and ductwork is brilliant. Didn't think of that when doing mine.


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## Cecilt

Question. If I add a second AC, but before doing this I add an additional vent in the MBR am i wasting my time. . I assume if you add the second AC you would close all all vents in the MBR as they would not be necessary. Will this cause issues when operating the first AC. I correlate this to a home AC when you close off vents you are not equalizing the system and it winds up working less efficient,y. Tks


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## Cecilt

KTMRacer. I had these vents in my Rockwood TT. any thoughts on these. I liked them as I cold direct the airflow where I wanted it to go. Also, what is the real purpose of the vents on the overhead supply. If you open them all up you loose pressure going to the ducted vents. Cold you open one of these instead of all 3 In the living room to prevent adding a new vent in the living room. tks


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> Question. If I add a second AC, but before doing this I add an additional vent in the MBR am i wasting my time. . I assume if you add the second AC you would close all all vents in the MBR as they would not be necessary. Will this cause issues when operating the first AC. I correlate this to a home AC when you close off vents you are not equalizing the system and it winds up working less efficient,y. Tks


I don't think there will be a problem as long as there are six that are opened....or open the a vent on the plenum to compensate for one hat is closed. I think this is going to be a project for next weekend.

I will probably be looking to add the heat strip in the unit also...I know it doesn't equate to much more than a space heater, but it may be enough to knock off the morning chill. And I won't have a space heater sitting around for kids/animals to knock over

Cale


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## Cale

robertized said:


> Another project that will need tending to will be the air con system/vents. It was only 82 here yesterday, but the air con ran the whole day with it set on 72... I did pop the inlet off and it looked taped up pretty well, but the flow through the vents is a little anemic. Yes, we were out in the sun (no shade) and the front cap was pretty hot, but the 15k btu air con should have done the trick pretty quick. I did remove the vent in the bunk room, the duct keeps going aft, I will drop it back down and block it off aft so that cold air is not being wasted and maybe add another vent to the trunk. I have read a couple threads about adding one, seems very easy and painless. I will also look to put a closeable vent in the restroom, it was pretty cold in there....will also do one in the master bedroom, in addition to a second air con for when we go to Vegas, then ultimately back to FL.
> 
> Cecilt, I know you got that big awning topper. How does it look? I know it would cut down on heat, but with it as big as it is, how will it do in windy conditions?
> 
> On the bright side, the heat system works like a champ...wished there was a heat vent in the restroom, froze my buns getting out of the shower this morning, while the rest of the spaces were comfortable...
> 
> Thoughts on a kitchen fan...any idea if there are wires near the kitchen ceiling vent for a MaxxAir vent with fan? That would be key, especially when cooking something with odors, would evacuate a lot quicker than the stove vent fan.
> 
> Cale


For the AC your on the right track. Trailers this size are pretty marginal for a single AC. However, much improvment over "as delivered" performance is possible. Here is what I did on our 295RE and it should help your situation as well.

First, as you did, drop the AC plenum and open up the openings to the ducting as much as possible and then seal all unwanted stuff up with the aluminum duct tape.
Next, I recomend getting rid of the existing ceiling vents and replacing them with "aireport" vents available online. The are a drop in replacement, but the direct air horizontally 360 degreees AND you can easily go from "full on" to "full off" with them.
Second, for each vent, drop the cover and use the same aluminum tape to make sure the duct is sealed to the ceiling so no air goes into the attic..
Third, add a bunch more of the aireport vents into the duct. In our 295RE I added one more in the bedroom, one in the bathroom and two in the living area. You'll likely find the ducting goes way past the last vent on each run, simply add a duct at the end of each run. You can cut the holes with a holesaw or a circle cutter bit on a variable speed cordless drill.
You'll end up with way more airflow, and if you want to cool the living area quicker, shut off the bedroom or vice versa.

And on the kitchen. IF your trailer layout and wiring is anything similar to the 295RE, what you'll find is that if you pull out the microwave, you'll find multiple hot 12V feeds behind it. One is to the stove fan/light etc. But any one will do. Then when you replace the vent with a fan, cut a 1" dia or so hole in the ceiling behind the microwave, and use a snake from the ceiling vent to the microwave to pull a wire and connect it to one of the hot runs behind the microwave. OR, if you don't want to do that, run a wire to one of the ceiling lights near the vent. the issue with that is the the ceiling light main swith will also control the fan power.
[/quote]

Cale I agree with KTMRacer X2, but as with any fix for a problem we all like to share our $.02. On the Second item on his list about sealing around the individual outlets, I cut a circle out of foam board insulation to make a spacer to fill in the 1" gap between the duct and the ceiling at each outlet and then used the aluminum duct tape to seal and secure it. http://www.outbacker...1_1850_8611.jpg 

Third he is correct about installing more outlets on the two ducts that leave the A/C plenum area. AIRXCEL is the manufacturer of these units and in the Installation Instructions, under the heading Supply Ducting and Registers it states (A minimum of 6 is recommended). 

To prevent heat from entering the trailer around the roof vents, remove the four screws holding up the trim, then used a ¼" foam board to insulate and seal around this area also. 

One other place I found a lot of heat radiating into the trailer was around the refrigerator. The frig itself has insulation around it when installed, but at the upper portion of this opening into the trailer is not. The space above the frig is not insulated and is surrounded by cabinets on three sides. The heat generated by the frig and the outside ambient temperature is directly exposed to the surrounding cabinet walls inside the trailer. Our pantry is on the left hand side of the frig and there is a storage cabinet above as well, and while you have the Micro wave out that space is also exposed to the outside from the uninsulated portion of the frig compartment. I had to install ½" foam insulation in the pantry and the other cabinets to help keep the heat from building up in there. You can get an inferred thermometer for about $29. You would be surprised at where the heat is getting into the trailer. Good Luck.
[/quote]

Robertized,

Those spacers just sit around the collar of the vent?

As for vents, I will be getting a bunch and adding a handful of vents. For the bunk room, it looks like it goes back a ways, I will use a measure tape to see how far back it goes....then put one at the back of the bunk room.

For the roof vents, does Keystone have wires running to the vents so fans can be installed?...like a prepositioning for future expansion?

As far as above our fridge...the top of it is the top of the slider....I may be able to go from the upper vent outside and slide some foam board in there.

I noticed today...the vent fan above the stove doesn't vent outside...I hate and like it at the same time... In my other trailer, I used a foam board to keep the coolness out and when in storage, but pulled it out when it was needed...the way this is, I would rather not have a hood over the stove, I am too tall to use the back burners....maybe I should let the 4ft 11in wife do all that.


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## Cecilt

robertized said:


> Cecilt your understanding about supply and return air is right on. Depending on the weather conditions you are in using only one A/C might be all you need at that time. So having the proper amount of outlets on the primary A/C is money well spent. Using the aireport vents would allow you to adjust the output as needed, don't forget at on the cover of the primary A/C you have louvers that can be opened or closed in that area as needed. The A/C you add in the bedroom will have outlets for that room only. Good Luck.


Thanks Robertized. By outlets on the second AC I assume you mean the vents on the plenum since the second AC would not be ducted. So if I install a second AC I could close off 1 or the 2nd--if I add a second vent, in the MBR and this won't cause equalization issues within the first system. Tks so much for all this input. I think I will add 3 vents next week- 1 in MBR, 1 in living room and 1 in bunk room. Cale, is this your plan as well?


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## Cecilt

If 6 is the minimum why would a 36' TT only have 4. I asked this question to the sales guy as my 34' Rockwood had 6. He said if Keystone designed and tested it 4 should be enough. I knew that was BS so I guess I will be adding 3 more fior a total of 7 and possibly closing off the bathroom vent so net 6. If I add the second AC and close off 2 vents in the MBR and the one in the bathroom I am down to 4 open vents. Am I still in trouble. Tks


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## Cecilt

I am going to order 7 vents tonight. Do we need bright white or white ? Tks


----------



## KTMRacer

Cecilt said:


> Question. If I add a second AC, but before doing this I add an additional vent in the MBR am i wasting my time. . I assume if you add the second AC you would close all all vents in the MBR as they would not be necessary. Will this cause issues when operating the first AC. I correlate this to a home AC when you close off vents you are not equalizing the system and it winds up working less efficient,y. Tks


to add a second AC and be able to run both at the same time means upgrading to a 50A service or installing a seperate supply for the second AC unit. A 30A supply really can't run 2AC units reliably. You might start and run both AC's but as soon as you turn anything else on you'll pop a breaker And by code a 30A service is limited to something like 24A "dedicated" devices, like AC units.

Next, be careful about adding a second AC, unless they unit has a second AC option. The reason I mention this is that in some units, you'll find that in the bedroom you can't get a 14" x 14" opening without cutting into doubled up roof trusses. They double up a roof truss on plywood joints (good, insures a good joint). then Keystone never installs any vents etc. on a plywood roof joint, which is good, an invitation to leaks etc. so, what happens is that the bedroom is the first candidate to end up with no spot that has a true 14" x 14" opening since they know where vents are and design the roof layout to avoid them on vents.

And unless the unit is prepped for a second AC unit with the 50A service, you'll have to find a way to run a dedicated 20A circuit into the attic. Not an easy task.

My advice, clean up the ductwork, nice and tidy, add additional ducts, then see if it works for you. It did for us in our 295RE, but I will admit we are NOT in a hot climate.

However, our 295RE has a 13.5KBTU AC and in early sept I was in western idaho for a weekend when it was unseasonably hot and humid. pushing mid 90's in the afternoon and we were parked in the direct sun. The AC was able to keep the trailer in the mid 70's and was cycling, probably near an 80% duty cycle. I turned it on before it got real hot inside, about 80F and it was able to keep up. This included keeping the bedroom cool. Before I did the mod's I mentioned and added the vents, no way would I have been able to keep the whole trailer that cool, and I doubt I could have even kept the living area that cool running the AC 100%


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## KTMRacer

robertized said:


> Cale I did a post both on the collar for the vent outlets and one on venting out the hood vent over the stove I will see if I can post those here for you. Good Luck.
> 
> http://www.outbacker...=1&#entry437161
> 
> http://www.outbacker...l=&fromsearch=1
> 
> PS: As for the roof vents KTMRacer suggested fishing a wire from inside the Micro wave Oven compartment, but I have also heard of others getting 12V power from inside the A/C plenum, as it requires both 120V AC and 12V DC to operate.


it's possible to fish a wire from the AC as well. the reason I did the microwave is that is was basically inline with the celing vent so I didn't need to fish a wire through the rafter which can be a PITA. But use whatever works best for your layout.


----------



## Cecilt

robertized said:


> I am going to order 7 vents tonight. Do we need bright white or white ? Tks


I went out to the trailer just now and they are white but not as white at the trim around the roof vent, but if you are going to replace them all at least they will all look the same. Good Luck.
[/quote]

Tks for looking. My camper is at camping world waiting for a slide repair or I would also look. Would it be better to get bright white to match vent trim then or is the ceiling more a regular white. I don't want them to stick out and look out of place. Tks


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> I am going to order 7 vents tonight. Do we need bright white or white ? Tks


I went out to the trailer just now and they are white but not as white at the trim around the roof vent, but if you are going to replace them all at least they will all look the same. Good Luck.
[/quote]

Tks for looking. My camper is at camping world waiting for a slide repair or I would also look. Would it be better to get bright white to match vent trim then or is the ceiling more a regular white. I don't want them to stick out and look out of place. Tks
[/quote]

Cecilt,

Let me know how yours looks and I will follow suit...I start classes again tomorrow, so I will only have limited time on the weekends to get these done...the wife will be riding me to get this completed as she likes to be comfy.

To touch on your slide....I did notice that my trim on the outside of my kitchen slide is not cut right, this makes for a weird/tight fit. I am going to trim it up so the slide is not in a bind. I also paid special attention to the final movements of the slide in and out today...it seems as though the limit switches don't stop the motor, it is the motor itself binding to stop. So I am only operating the slide in and out without running it to a hard stop. If there is a way to adjust the stop points, it would be worth a look...

Cale


----------



## Cecilt

Cale said:


> I am going to order 7 vents tonight. Do we need bright white or white ? Tks


I went out to the trailer just now and they are white but not as white at the trim around the roof vent, but if you are going to replace them all at least they will all look the same. Good Luck.
[/quote]

Tks for looking. My camper is at camping world waiting for a slide repair or I would also look. Would it be better to get bright white to match vent trim then or is the ceiling more a regular white. I don't want them to stick out and look out of place. Tks
[/quote]

Cecilt,

Let me know how yours looks and I will follow suit...I start classes again tomorrow, so I will only have limited time on the weekends to get these done...the wife will be riding me to get this completed as she likes to be comfy.

To touch on your slide....I did notice that my trim on the outside of my kitchen slide is not cut right, this makes for a weird/tight fit. I am going to trim it up so the slide is not in a bind. I also paid special attention to the final movements of the slide in and out today...it seems as though the limit switches don't stop the motor, it is the motor itself binding to stop. So I am only operating the slide in and out without running it to a hard stop. If there is a way to adjust the stop points, it would be worth a look...

Cale


















[/quote]

Ouch. That sure is off. Dealer should fix if you don't want to mess with it. What does other side look like. Could the entire slide need adjusting?


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## Cecilt

I pulled the vent cover in the bunk room. Duct continues past vent at least 3'. Shoved some small towels to block off the duct just past the vent. Not any noisier and a little more air flow. Pulled vent off in MBR but duct stops at this vent. Nothing to do in MBR.

I think I am going to replace the vent in the bath with one of these. May consider doing the others with this style as well. Don't think I will be adding more vents.

Aireport vent


----------



## Cale

Cecilt said:


> I pulled the vent cover in the bunk room. Duct continues past vent at least 3'. Shoved some small towels to block off the duct just past the vent. Not any noisier and a little more air flow. Pulled vent off in MBR but duct stops at this vent. Nothing to do in MBR.
> 
> I think I am going to replace the vent in the bath with one of these. May consider doing the others with this style as well. Don't think I will be adding more vents.
> 
> Aireport vent


I bought seven of the 360 degree vents. I will be adding a second vent in the bunk room and a second in the living room, somewhere in there. I will also be doing the collars that Robertized showed....that is next Saturday's project.

Since your vent goes back about three feet, I will do one near the end of the run, then I will close everything off with foam board and the silver tape. I am hoping that when I am done, this sucker will cool like no other....the second A/C will go in before our trip to Vegas.....want to be sure there will be no chance of us sweating it out while we are there....

Cale


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## Cecilt

Cale said:


> I pulled the vent cover in the bunk room. Duct continues past vent at least 3'. Shoved some small towels to block off the duct just past the vent. Not any noisier and a little more air flow. Pulled vent off in MBR but duct stops at this vent. Nothing to do in MBR.
> 
> I think I am going to replace the vent in the bath with one of these. May consider doing the others with this style as well. Don't think I will be adding more vents.
> 
> Aireport vent


I bought seven of the 360 degree vents. I will be adding a second vent in the bunk room and a second in the living room, somewhere in there. I will also be doing the collars that Robertized showed....that is next Saturday's project.

Since your vent goes back about three feet, I will do one near the end of the run, then I will close everything off with foam board and the silver tape. I am hoping that when I am done, this sucker will cool like no other....the second A/C will go in before our trip to Vegas.....want to be sure there will be no chance of us sweating it out while we are there....

Cale
[/quote]

Which vents did you order. Do you need collars for them? What AC unit are you going with. I will decide on that next year when we are camping in hot weather. Thinking a 9k BTU would be just fine since it won't be ducted. A 13.5 in the bedroom may cycle on and off too much and not be as efficient.


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## Cale

Cecilt said:


> I pulled the vent cover in the bunk room. Duct continues past vent at least 3'. Shoved some small towels to block off the duct just past the vent. Not any noisier and a little more air flow. Pulled vent off in MBR but duct stops at this vent. Nothing to do in MBR.
> 
> I think I am going to replace the vent in the bath with one of these. May consider doing the others with this style as well. Don't think I will be adding more vents.
> 
> Aireport vent


I bought seven of the 360 degree vents. I will be adding a second vent in the bunk room and a second in the living room, somewhere in there. I will also be doing the collars that Robertized showed....that is next Saturday's project.

Since your vent goes back about three feet, I will do one near the end of the run, then I will close everything off with foam board and the silver tape. I am hoping that when I am done, this sucker will cool like no other....the second A/C will go in before our trip to Vegas.....want to be sure there will be no chance of us sweating it out while we are there....

Cale
[/quote]

Which vents did you order. Do you need collars for them? What AC unit are you going with. I will decide on that next year when we are camping in hot weather. Thinking a 9k BTU would be just fine since it won't be ducted. A 13.5 in the bedroom may cycle on and off too much and not be as efficient.
[/quote]

I got the 5840 that spins up and down and puts air out all around....I did not get any collars, I figure that I will do the inserts Robertized showed and the tape and it should be good to go. If I find I need collars, I will get some later.

Been looking at the Dometic Penguin series. There is an 11k BTU model I was looking. I agree that a 13.5 may be too much for the front alone. I will also watch the current 15k installed, there is a Dometic 15k that is supposed to rival residential performance.


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## Bishopss

We've also had the kitchen slide fail.

As for access with the large slide in, we bungy the bathroom door open to the master bedroom door and close the slide. It allows bathroom breaks on the road and entry into the master.


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## Cecilt

Bishopss said:


> We've also had the kitchen slide fail.
> 
> As for access with the large slide in, we bungy the bathroom door open to the master bedroom door and close the slide. It allows bathroom breaks on the road and entry into the master.


Great idea. Will try that this weekend. How did your slide fail? I just had mine fixed again 2 weeks ago. Motor and gear box were okay but the cables were so far out of adjustment. Now the cables are tight all the time (open or closed). Scares me that it is so much pressure but seems to work fine. I really love the camper layout but have been pretty disappointed in the quality to some degree.


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## Bishopss

Cecilt said:


> We've also had the kitchen slide fail.
> 
> As for access with the large slide in, we bungy the bathroom door open to the master bedroom door and close the slide. It allows bathroom breaks on the road and entry into the master.


Great idea. Will try that this weekend. How did your slide fail? I just had mine fixed again 2 weeks ago. Motor and gear box were okay but the cables were so far out of adjustment. Now the cables are tight all the time (open or closed). Scares me that it is so much pressure but seems to work fine. I really love the camper layout but have been pretty disappointed in the quality to some degree.
[/quote]

The gear box failed. That thing has got to have gobbs of torque. Hopefully they upgraded it.


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## hybris1

I had an issue with the door on the outside kitchen. I wrote up the fix here:
http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=46770


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## Bishopss

hybris1 said:


> I had an issue with the door on the outside kitchen. I wrote up the fix here:
> http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=46770


Ours is warping to the point it's getting hard to latch. The door itself is going concave on me.


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## hybris1

This is my new problem. The big slide make a bad noise when retracting. It appears that it may be the floor rubbing on the edge or something. Does anyone else's make this noise?


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## dhdb

hybris1 said:


> This is my new problem. The big slide make a bad noise when retracting. It appears that it may be the floor rubbing on the edge or something. Does anyone else's make this noise?


Is that the gaskets "chattering" on the side of the slides? At first I thought it was a compressor running....


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## joeymac

hybris1 said:


> I had an issue with the door on the outside kitchen. I wrote up the fix here:
> http://www.outbacker...showtopic=46770


In the process of getting my outdoor kitchen door replaced, as well as the countertop. Due to the door leaking water from the hinge, it warped the coutertop. Also have it back in due the the main slide leaking again !
Really disappointed with this unit, as our first 312BH was great.


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## Stokescd

I have the same problem with the door bracket bending and the screws pulling from the door on the outside kitchen of my 323bh. Does anyone know what the dealer does to resolve the problem? I have only had the camper 2 months and only used it twice.


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## hybris1

Stokescd said:


> I have the same problem with the door bracket bending and the screws pulling from the door on the outside kitchen of my 323bh. Does anyone know what the dealer does to resolve the problem? I have only had the camper 2 months and only used it twice.


I couldn't figure out how a dealer would fix it. That is why I did my own repair. Sucks having to do to such a new, expensive trailer.


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## Stokescd

hybris1 said:


> I have the same problem with the door bracket bending and the screws pulling from the door on the outside kitchen of my 323bh. Does anyone know what the dealer does to resolve the problem? I have only had the camper 2 months and only used it twice.


I couldn't figure out how a dealer would fix it. That is why I did my own repair. Sucks having to do to such a new, expensive trailer.
[/quote]
Your repair looks awesome! I guess I need to learn to weld... Did you use the same screws and put them into the same holes? A couple of my screws/holes were loose and I put toothpick pieces in the holes so the screw would be tight.


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## hybris1

Stokescd said:


> I have the same problem with the door bracket bending and the screws pulling from the door on the outside kitchen of my 323bh. Does anyone know what the dealer does to resolve the problem? I have only had the camper 2 months and only used it twice.


I couldn't figure out how a dealer would fix it. That is why I did my own repair. Sucks having to do to such a new, expensive trailer.
[/quote]
Your repair looks awesome! I guess I need to learn to weld... Did you use the same screws and put them into the same holes? A couple of my screws/holes were loose and I put toothpick pieces in the holes so the screw would be tight.
[/quote]

Yes, I used the same screws. Mine were not stripped. I also put adhesive silicone behind the plates. I left the brackets/shocks off for a couple of weeks in 100 degree weather and the door restored almost completely back to original shape. You could do similar without welding. Just bolt the shock brackets to the plates. Maybe use some flat head screws from the back side. The main purpose of the plates is to distribute the bending moment on the brackets. Really poor design. There should have been hard points in the door.


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## Stokescd

hybris1 said:


> I have the same problem with the door bracket bending and the screws pulling from the door on the outside kitchen of my 323bh. Does anyone know what the dealer does to resolve the problem? I have only had the camper 2 months and only used it twice.


I couldn't figure out how a dealer would fix it. That is why I did my own repair. Sucks having to do to such a new, expensive trailer.
[/quote]
Your repair looks awesome! I guess I need to learn to weld... Did you use the same screws and put them into the same holes? A couple of my screws/holes were loose and I put toothpick pieces in the holes so the screw would be tight.
[/quote]

Yes, I used the same screws. Mine were not stripped. I also put adhesive silicone behind the plates. I left the brackets/shocks off for a couple of weeks in 100 degree weather and the door restored almost completely back to original shape. You could do similar without welding. Just bolt the shock brackets to the plates. Maybe use some flat head screws from the back side. The main purpose of the plates is to distribute the bending moment on the brackets. Really poor design. There should have been hard points in the door.
[/quote]

Its 70 miles to the dealer so I would probably save myself a lot of time and aggravation doing it myself. I might fill the holes with fiberglass or something and redrill them so they are sturdier. Thanks so much for the advice, I'll follow it and hopefully it will come out as nice as yours!!!


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## Mattkhat

Cecilt said:


> We've also had the kitchen slide fail.
> 
> As for access with the large slide in, we bungy the bathroom door open to the master bedroom door and close the slide. It allows bathroom breaks on the road and entry into the master.


Great idea. Will try that this weekend. How did your slide fail? I just had mine fixed again 2 weeks ago. Motor and gear box were okay but the cables were so far out of adjustment. Now the cables are tight all the time (open or closed). Scares me that it is so much pressure but seems to work fine. I really love the camper layout but have been pretty disappointed in the quality to some degree.
[/quote]

I just brought my 323BH in because the kitchen slide failed. The large slide doesn't sound too healthy either. It sounds like it's skipping a tooth on the gears when going in or out. It's pretty disappointing because we just bought this camper in April of this year.


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## hybris1

The gear slipping sound that my large slide make seems to be coming from the bottom. It doesn't appear that the driveshaft or anything is slipping. It only makes the sound for the first third of it retracting. It seems to be just the bottom of the slide rubbing on the frame. When the slide tilts back the sound goes away. I guess I'll have to bring it in for nothing else just to record the problem.


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