# Help With Water Heater



## FLYakman (Jan 26, 2006)

I need some help.

After 2 weeks of weather and work related delays, DW and I finally got to go on our maiden voyage with the new 23RS. Stayed at a local KOA down the road a few miles.

I do not understand how to get the water heater going. I hooked up the water line beforehand but no hot water. Not the end of the world for this weekend but this is the only thing I could not figure out. Yup, I had PDI but DW says my mind is like a toilet ( no not IN the toilet).Once you "flush it" it's gone ( my mind that is.) That must have happened with the water heater instructions.

Can someone please help me with this?

Thank you.

Rayman (Bill) shy


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

It's probably the hot water heater bypass valve is closed. This valve is typically located near the water heater inside the trailer. In ours, it is located under the sofa.

This valve's purpose is to be able to winterize the water system with RV anti-freeze, without  filling the water heater with six gallons of anti-freeze. Find it and turn it to the other position and you will probably be in business.

Bill


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## our2girls (Jan 26, 2005)

The hot water heater works on electric or gas.....

Was their water going to the heater tank?

Was the tank filled with 6 gals. of water?

Was your propane on?

If you had no water in the tank, and used the electric option to heat water, you may have damaged the heating element.

Mike


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

our2girls said:


> If you had no water in the tank, and used the electric option to heat water, you may have damaged the heating element.
> Mike
> [snapback]82943[/snapback]​


Mike makes a good point. The heater must have water in it before operating either the gas burner or electric element. If the bypass valve is not in the winterize position, water should fill the heater when the water pump is operated (with water in the fresh water tank, of course) or when hooked up to a pressurized water source.

If the water heater is empty, air can be evacuated by opening the pressure-temperature relief valve found behind the water heater access door on the outside of the trailer. Water should now flow freely from all the hot faucets. If you now have cold water and no hot water, there are two possible causes. The water heater bypass valve is in the winterize position or the trailer's plumbing was assembled incorrectly, or both.

Let us know what you find. I hope you find an easy solution.

Bill


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Like the others have said, it is most likely the water heater winterization bypass.

If you had already switched that, and filled the WH, and still no hot water, then there are a few more options.

If the WH is full of water, and you were trying to get it work on electric, check your circuit breaker panel. Most of the trailers came with the electric water heater circuit off.

If you were trying to heat with gas, then did the red light come illuminate on the switch panel. If so, this indicates a fault, and the system didn't light. Not a big thing, as you will probably need to just recycle it to ensure all the air is purged from the line.

Tim


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## Thor (Apr 7, 2004)

I agree with above....odds are the valve is bypass. Make sure water is in the tank before you turn it on. Simply open the outside cover and screw out the nylon plug carefully. If you have the water on, you will get wet. ONce you have water turn on the heat. Elect and/or the propane. Wait 10-15min and you should feel the water getting warm. It will take longer to get the water hot.

Good luck

Thor


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

I agree with everything posted so far, when you turn on the heater on the wall does the red switch light up, same as your water pump. Can you hear the propane ignite?

Bill.


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## shaela21 (Aug 16, 2005)

There is one more thing to check for, and guess how I know about this one







. Ensure the breaker is turned on at the converter for the water heater. I could not figure out why the water would not heat up on electricity, but would on propane. I felt silly after, but now I know.


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

shaela21 said:


> There is one more thing to check for, and guess how I know about this one
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Also on top of the heater itself. You have a black toggle switch.

Bill.


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## FLYakman (Jan 26, 2006)

Let me see if I can answer some of the good questions posed so far.

1. Did not know about the bypass valve under the sofa. I don't know why I didn't but I can tell you for sure I didn't. I will check that tomorrow. Since this is west central Florida I'm doubting it was winterized but I could be wrong. I'll check. I look for the bypass valve.

2. Our2Girls: It did not seem to work on ga sor electric. I did not hear anything.Was the tank fiilled with 6 gals. of water? I was fully hooked to city water and it was coming out of the faucets ok. Was there something I had to do beforehand to fill the WH? If so I may have burned out the element. How major is this?

3.Hatcityhose hauler- The red light DID come on the inside panel for both electric and LP. How do I recycle it?

4. Thor- I will check this carefully tomorrow afternoon. Here is the 64K question:How do I make sure there is water in the WH?

5.2500RAM: Can not hear thre propane ignite.Red switch lights up.

6.Shaela21: There was a breaker that was off at the panel but I'm not certain it was for the WH. Is there a seperate breaker for the WH that's located somewhere else? You say on top of the water heater there's a black toggle switch. Are we talking about on the panel outside the TT?

I'm sorry guy to be a pain on this but I'm a little confused. Actually we a had a great weekend and everything worked well and I handled all the little challenges as they came up. Just can't seem to get this one.

Rayman (Bill)


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

I'll try to give a little insight into this.....

Check the breaker in the panel first off...mine is hand written as to what is what. Mine came with the breaker off for the WH because people tend to forget about having water in the tank first. This is a preventative way to eliminate burn out. I always turn my breaker off agin when I am done using the WH.

If water is coming out the spigot, you should have water in the tank....unless the bypass valve is turned. The easy way to tell is go out to the access panel and use the pressure valve. If water squirts you, there is water in the tank.

Light your stove burners to help purge any air from the propane lines. Run then a few minutes. Flip the lighted switch for the water heater. You should hear it "tick" as the igniter goes on and off. If it cycles and doesn't light, you just flip the switch again to recycle it.

I did not know about the black toggle on the WH itself, I'll have to check that out when its not so cold.

If it doesn't light after doing all these checks, you may want to have a dealer check it out. Is your unit under warranty yet?? If so, I would them tinker with it further, then you are covered against messing it up more than it was.

Steve


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Not everybody has the toggle switch on the heater itself.
I think they stopped those after 2004 or somewhere around there.
Check to see if you have one, but if you don't find one, nothing to worry about.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

No one has mentioned the outside portion of the HWH.

Open the outside cover and do a quick check of the wires. I would recommend that you remove/pull the 2 connectors to the control board, make sure the connections are clean and reinstall. Do this with both the Gas and Electric control switches in the off position.

Also you will see in the picture below an over temperature switch and a thermostat. Make sure they are firmly connected.

To purge the water heater you can manually open the over temperature/pressure valve. Lift the lever about 45 degrees until water comes out in a steady stream. Release the lever quickly to reset the valve. If you get no air or water venting from the valve when open then the winterizing valve is in bypass position.

Edited to add the picture.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> No one has mentioned the outside portion of the HWH.
> 
> Open the outside cover and do a quick check of the wires. I would recommend that you remove/pull the connector to the control board, make sure the connections are clean and reinstall. Do this with both the Gas and Electric control switches in the off position.
> 
> ...


Andy is indeed a smart man.


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

> Since this is west central Florida I'm doubting it was winterized but I could be wrong. I'll check. I look for the bypass valve.


If you bought your trailer factory new from the dealer, it was probably winterized. I know mine was, and it was only on the lot for a week, and was built in March.

As for recycling the switch, sorry, that is an old Navy term for turning it off, and then on again. The gas ignition system will make several attempts to light, and if unsucessful, it will stop, and then the light on the switch panel will come on. (this of course is on my '04 26RS, the light doesn't light up at all on my '04 when on electric, it only alerts you to a fault on the gas ignition). Usually, just turning the switch off, and then on again will allow any air in the line to purge, and the WH burner will ignite. There is no pilot light, so when the flame is out, the gas is off.

Even with the bypass in the winter position, you will get water from the hot water side of the sink. It just goes around the WH instead of through it. This way, you don't have to fill you water heater with antifreeze.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Tim


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## FLYakman (Jan 26, 2006)

CamperAndy said:


> No one has mentioned the outside portion of the HWH.
> 
> Open the outside cover and do a quick check of the wires. I would recommend that you remove/pull the 2 connectors to the control board, make sure the connections are clean and reinstall. Do this with both the Gas and Electric control switches in the off position.
> 
> ...


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## FLYakman (Jan 26, 2006)

The picture was perfect. That is EXACTLY what I've got. Went over to the TT at lunch today ( stored nearby) and opened that valve and water came out. I'm was told today by the dealer that all I have to do is turn on the switch inside the TT. There are 2 switches-one for LP and 1 for electric. Can i turn them both on together.

I also opened the rear slide so i could look under the sofa for a shut off valve. All I saw under there was a completely enclosed box. Did not see any shut off. Looks like that's where the city water and tank fill come in.

I may be ok. Listen guys you all have been great. DW and I are going camping again this week ( I'm NOT rubbing it in for you northern folks!!) from Thursday afternoon until Sunday at Rock Crusher Canyon RV park in Crystal River,FL. They have internet service and I'll have my laptop with me. If I run into what I think is a problem I'll be back on line. Maybe I can even call one of you on my cell this weekend and someone can walk me through it. I promise I'll throw your number away and NEVER call again!!!!

Rayman ( Bill)


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Count me as one of those that has been 'tripped' up - more than once shy - by the water heater breaker being off.

Ours usually takes a couple of tries to get going on gas. Then, once it is up to temp, I usually kill the gas and switch over to electric. As I mentioned, more than once I have gotten up the next morning to cold water! Funny the difference that breaker switch makes!









When showering, I will kick in both the gas and electric elements.

Happy Trails,
Doug

P.S.: It's a good idea to switch off the breaker switch when not using the trailer. Especially if you have little hands around! This will protect against burning out the heater when there is no water in it.


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## FLYakman (Jan 26, 2006)

Just got back from our 2nd camping trip. Water heater works fine when you give it time to heat the water. DUH!!!! I feel pretty stupid!!!

Thanks everyone for your help and advice.

Rayman


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