# Maiden Voyage - Hooking Up....how Hard?



## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

We took our maiden overnight voyage this weekend, and learned a lot. Biggest issue to note (think we figured all the others out with the help of some super neighbor RV'ers)...hooking the chains and pulling them up to closed when hooking/unhooking.

I'm a girl, and a slight one at that, but should pulling up on the bar to 'close' the weight distribution bars be *that* hard? I got them on to head out Sunday but barely (took all I had). Neighbor RV'er helped me unhook them and mentioned that they seemed much harder than his were to release (lots of pressure). Today, hooking up to come home, there was no way in Haites I could get them on. I tried driving a link longer - and it sucked, front end was too high (though only a slight bit but the steering was all over). Dealer had it at 5 links, and that is def it's sweet spot - no issues at 5. I tried 6. I finally stopped in a parking lot and tried again to hook them at the 5 link mark, and no way no how, no matter how I seemed to try. Finally some nice guys stopped and did it for me. Not big guys, but certainly bigger than me. I don't think it looked easy for them either. The other issue is unhooking - I can't bring them down nice and slow - maybe I'm simply not strong enough for the setting (maybe I'll be joining the husband in lifting????).

I tried raising the trailer tongue with the jack to hook them - at the level mark, at the raise up an inch or two (after the Armada sinks, then I raise the jack back up to try to do the bars) mark, and at the 'pretty much lifting the rear of the truck off the ground mark'.

Is this normal? Is there a sweet spot where the pressure is released the it's easiest to pull them up? I can get the chains on no problem, it's the pulling them up to secure them that I don't have the strength to do. If DH is with me, it's no big deal, but I HATE depending on him to have to do this for me - I will go myself with my mom and the kids, and I don't want to rely on some nice guy in the campground to help me out each time! LOL

ETA - it's a Reese with friction sway (sway was okay - felt a touch with a semi at 60 mph, otherwise very solid). #800 bars....came with the trailer. I'd have bought an Equalizer, but figured for free, I'd give it a whirl. Was happy with it - don't need to tow faster than 60mph anyhow - except for how hard it is to hook up.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

I bought an equal-i-zer so I wouldn't have to play with chain links.

With any weight distributing hitch, the easiest way to hook up the bars is by lifting the back of the truck with the tongue jack. _That_ is why I got an electric tongue jack. Another thing that will affect how difficult it is to raise the bars, is if the tow vehicle and trailer are parked with the tongue area in a depression, increasing the angle that the bars need to be raised.

As you figured out, it is important to have the hitch at the proper settings.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

sptddog said:


> We took our maiden overnight voyage this weekend, and learned a lot. Biggest issue to note (think we figured all the others out with the help of some super neighbor RV'ers)...hooking the chains and pulling them up to closed when hooking/unhooking.
> 
> I'm a girl, and a slight one at that, but should pulling up on the bar to 'close' the weight distribution bars be *that* hard? I got them on to head out Sunday but barely (took all I had). Neighbor RV'er helped me unhook them and mentioned that they seemed much harder than his were to release (lots of pressure). Today, hooking up to come home, there was no way in Haites I could get them on. I tried driving a link longer - and it sucked, front end was too high (though only a slight bit but the steering was all over). Dealer had it at 5 links, and that is def it's sweet spot - no issues at 5. I tried 6. I finally stopped in a parking lot and tried again to hook them at the 5 link mark, and no way no how, no matter how I seemed to try. Finally some nice guys stopped and did it for me. Not big guys, but certainly bigger than me. I don't think it looked easy for them either. The other issue is unhooking - I can't bring them down nice and slow - maybe I'm simply not strong enough for the setting (maybe I'll be joining the husband in lifting????).
> 
> ...


If the hitch is installed correctly, you should be able to raise the snap-up brackets without too much difficulty. What you're describing is a lot of downward pressure on the spring bars - either from a very heavy tongue, a sagging rear end on your tow vehicle, or an improperly installed hitch / weight distribution setup. After you hitch up, raise the back end of the tow vehicle with the tongue jack. The more you raise the back end, the easier it will be to attach the spring bars (this is where a power tongue jack really comes in handy). After lifting, put your chains on the 5th link, snap up and put the retainer clip in the bracket. When both bars are in, lower the tongue jack. I'm guesstimating, but on your tow vehicle, your hitch ball should be sitting somewhere around 23 inches without the trailer connected (assuming the trailer coupler height is about 22 inches high on a 250RS). To check, put your spring bars in the hitch and lift up to take up the slack. The end of the spring bar should be around 7 to 8 inches from the pavement if the hitch is installed correctly. Any closer to the pavement and you may have too much head tilt which would cause excessive downward pressure.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

sptddog said:


> Neighbor RV'er helped me unhook them and mentioned that they seemed much harder than his were to release (lots of pressure).


Every vehicle is different. If his is a 3/4 ton, it won't require as much weight distribution. I'm thinking the Armada is a smaller TV, probably with softer suspension, and would therefore require more pressure on the bars.

Personally, I think the 250RS, especially on a smaller tow vehicle, requires a better hitch than what you have. The equal-i-zer or Reese dual cam would be better (safer) choices.


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

So...the higher I raise the tongue once the trailer is on the ball, the easier it should get? Maybe I didn't raise it high enough.....I didn't go all the way to the top of the jack I don't think.

Are the equalizer bars easier to attach? Does it have that same leverage mechanism? Or is that easier than the snapping up of the chain set-up?

In all my research, I agree, I would have gone equalizer. I still might - we have a trip this friday for the weekend, hour or so drive - which I can do cause the husband is going along, so hooking/unhooking will be easier. I don't have a dealer around here that 'sells' them regularly - there is one that is an authorized dealer, but I fear they'd be as blind as me in the install. I may get a worse ride...LOL. I'm not confident that we could dial one in ourselves without having a dealer do it.


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

> I'm guesstimating, but on your tow vehicle, your hitch ball should be sitting somewhere around 23 inches without the trailer connected (assuming the trailer coupler height is about 22 inches high on a 250RS). To check, put your spring bars in the hitch and lift up to take up the slack. The end of the spring bar should be around 7 to 8 inches from the pavement if the hitch is installed correctly. Any closer to the pavement and you may have too much head tilt which would cause excessive downward pressure.


Yes, it's probably about 23inches - the point where the hitch slides in to the receiver is about 18 - add the hitch and it's probably about 23inches give or take one. By 'lifting up to take up the slack' you mean to just stand back and hold them parallle to the hitch/ground, as they'd be hooked up right? Then measure the hitch ball height?


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## Jimmie (Jan 7, 2008)

Equalizer hitches on sale with free shipping!

Equalizer Hitches

comes with step-by-step guide for set-up.

Jimmie


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

sptddog said:


> > I'm guesstimating, but on your tow vehicle, your hitch ball should be sitting somewhere around 23 inches without the trailer connected (assuming the trailer coupler height is about 22 inches high on a 250RS). To check, put your spring bars in the hitch and lift up to take up the slack. The end of the spring bar should be around 7 to 8 inches from the pavement if the hitch is installed correctly. Any closer to the pavement and you may have too much head tilt which would cause excessive downward pressure.
> 
> 
> Yes, it's probably about 23inches - the point where the hitch slides in to the receiver is about 18 - add the hitch and it's probably about 23inches give or take one. By 'lifting up to take up the slack' you mean to just stand back and hold them parallle to the hitch/ground, as they'd be hooked up right? Then measure the hitch ball height?


Park the truck on level ground with the hitch in the receiver. Put the end of the spring bar in the hitch and point it back as it would be when attached to the snap-up bracket. Lift up on the chain end of the bar slightly to take up any slack. Measure the distance from the tip of the spring bar (the chain end) to the pavement. It should be about 7-8 inches. This measurement will tell you if you have the correct amount of "tilt" in the hitch head. Don't sell the Reese hitch short - it's an excellent product when installed and used correctly. I would recommend hanging on to what you have and picking up the Reese Dual Cam anti-sway device which will work with the stuff you already have. It's about $200 at Camping World.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

Insomniak said:


> > I'm guesstimating, but on your tow vehicle, your hitch ball should be sitting somewhere around 23 inches without the trailer connected (assuming the trailer coupler height is about 22 inches high on a 250RS). To check, put your spring bars in the hitch and lift up to take up the slack. The end of the spring bar should be around 7 to 8 inches from the pavement if the hitch is installed correctly. Any closer to the pavement and you may have too much head tilt which would cause excessive downward pressure.
> 
> 
> Yes, it's probably about 23inches - the point where the hitch slides in to the receiver is about 18 - add the hitch and it's probably about 23inches give or take one. By 'lifting up to take up the slack' you mean to just stand back and hold them parallle to the hitch/ground, as they'd be hooked up right? Then measure the hitch ball height?


Park the truck on level ground with the hitch in the receiver. Put the end of the spring bar in the hitch and point it back as it would be when attached to the snap-up bracket. Lift up on the chain end of the bar slightly to take up any slack. Measure the distance from the tip of the spring bar (the chain end) to the pavement. It should be about 7-8 inches. This measurement will tell you if you have the correct amount of "tilt" in the hitch head. Don't sell the Reese hitch short - it's an excellent product when installed and used correctly. I would recommend hanging on to what you have and picking up the Reese Dual Cam anti-sway device which will work with the stuff you already have. It's about $200 at Camping World.
[/quote]

Just to hopefully clarify, you need the amount of tension on the weight distribution bars required to transfer sufficient weight onto the front wheels of your truck. As you mentioned, 6 wasn't enough, you needed 5. What Insomniak is saying is, if at 5 links your bars are either too close to the ground, or too high and close to the trailer frame, the hitch head angle needs to be adjusted to get the bars roughly parallel to the trailer frame.

If you can upgrade your Reese to a dual cam sway system, that would be the best option.


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## duggy (Mar 17, 2010)

sptddog said:


> So...the higher I raise the tongue once the trailer is on the ball, the easier it should get? Maybe I didn't raise it high enough.....I didn't go all the way to the top of the jack I don't think.
> 
> Are the equalizer bars easier to attach? Does it have that same leverage mechanism? Or is that easier than the snapping up of the chain set-up?


I've never attached a system with chains, so I don't know how high you would have to go to make it real easy, but the higher you go, the easier it will be.

With the equalizer, the bars are more rigid, so it's not too difficult to raise the tongue to the point where the bars will slip onto the "L" brackets without using a lever. I have a lever that came with the hitch, but haven't used it since I got the electric tongue jack. Also, because the system is set up "permanently", you will always have it with the same tension each time you hook up. (no forgetting how many links).


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

The secret w/chains is to raise the whole magilla with the TV hitch ball connected to the TT hitch socket. Using the jack (mine is electric) I raise the whole rear end assembly about 4 - 6 inches. Then the jacking of the chain ends up is quite easy.

If the hitch and TT socket are low, it's an unreal difficulty to raise the clamp with the chain on it, up to "closed." You'll be trying to put a huge amount of torque on the bars with just the lifting rod and that's nearly impossible.

Just raise everything (bars and TT socket and TV hitch ball) up about 4 - 6 inches and you'll find that then the raising of the chain closer upwards is not difficult. The raising and lowering of the tongue is why I got an electric tongue jack!


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## Bob in Virginia (Jul 15, 2010)

First thing I did was to buy a 36" long x 3/4" diameter pipe from Lowes to provide better leverage when connecting my Reese dual cam wdh. My wife can handle it with one hand with the longer pipe. I use 5 links on my setup. I agree with the other posters, friction anti-sway isn't sufficient for these trailers, you will need more.


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## Justman (Jul 22, 2006)

Here's an expensive fix.







You could get a Hensley Arrow or a ProPride and not have to deal with lifting the weight distribution bars again.









On my Hensley, all I have to do is use a ratchet to turn a bolt to raise/lower my weight distribution bars. No chains, no strain. Of course, opinions vary, but I found it to be a worthwhile investment for piece of mind...and with my backup camera I just installed, a very, very easy rig to hook up. I think my 10 year old could do it. Not that I would let her drive my truck...


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

Bob in Virginia said:


> First thing I did was to buy a 36" long x 3/4" diameter pipe from Lowes to provide better leverage when connecting my Reese dual cam wdh. My wife can handle it with one hand with the longer pipe. I use 5 links on my setup. I agree with the other posters, friction anti-sway isn't sufficient for these trailers, you will need more.


I thought about this - but wasn't sure that was 'allowed', nor that I could get it onto the snap hinge to even use it. I might try this in addition to raising the tongue more. I was raising the tongue, but perhaps not nearly far enough - will experiement on that this friday when we go out for the weekend. Also want to see what, if any, sway I get on the PA turnpike. At 60 yesterday, I didn't feel anything except for a semi passing, but I want to make sure, and be more confident, because I too am in favor of better sway control. I actually asked the dealer who did the hitch for me (and of course, they said I wouldn't need it, which I knew they'd say), and agreed to give it a try and then add the dual-cams if needed. Which, because I don't trust the dealer, leads me to the next question....

My bars are actually draw-tite (which is Reese, but not 'Reese')...can the dual cam be added? Dealer said they could be.

I would like an equalizer, but I'd also like LT tires - so it's a toss up on how to work it all financially. If I can get this hitch working, or add dual cam for 200 bucks or so, I'd opt for that, and get the LT tires this winter (probably will need them anyhow, as my factorys on the last armada only lasted about 30-35 thousand miles). If the dual cams can't be added, and the friction isn't working, then maybe I get it this year, and hold off the LT tires until spring.

And yes, would LOVE a hensley...alas, 2 grand would buy tires, a dual cam, an equalizer, AND make a months payment on the camper. Maybe two months.


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## Bob in Virginia (Jul 15, 2010)

sptddog said:


> First thing I did was to buy a 36" long x 3/4" diameter pipe from Lowes to provide better leverage when connecting my Reese dual cam wdh. My wife can handle it with one hand with the longer pipe. I use 5 links on my setup. I agree with the other posters, friction anti-sway isn't sufficient for these trailers, you will need more.


I thought about this - but wasn't sure that was 'allowed', nor that I could get it onto the snap hinge to even use it. I might try this in addition to raising the tongue more. I was raising the tongue, but perhaps not nearly far enough - will experiement on that this friday when we go out for the weekend. Also want to see what, if any, sway I get on the PA turnpike. At 60 yesterday, I didn't feel anything except for a semi passing, but I want to make sure, and be more confident, because I too am in favor of better sway control. I actually asked the dealer who did the hitch for me (and of course, they said I wouldn't need it, which I knew they'd say), and agreed to give it a try and then add the dual-cams if needed. Which, because I don't trust the dealer, leads me to the next question....

My bars are actually draw-tite (which is Reese, but not 'Reese')...can the dual cam be added? Dealer said they could be.
[/quote]

I looked at the Draw Tite site. http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=1&parentid=1600&catID=0&part=0

If you have the trunnion bars on your hitch, looks just like my Reese WDH dual cam. 
Draw Tite also has the dual cam add-on, just click on the Sway Control link on the site.

You can get the parts from eTrailer, if you or DH are handy with the tools. http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP26002.html Current price is $194. They even show how to install it.

Not sure if you have had the fun of driving on a heavy crosswind day, but I love my Reese WDH, it lets me keep good control of the rig.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

hautevue said:


> The secret w/chains is to raise the whole magilla with the TV hitch ball connected to the TT hitch socket. Using the jack (mine is electric) I raise the whole rear end assembly about 4 - 6 inches. Then the jacking of the chain ends up is quite easy.
> 
> If the hitch and TT socket are low, it's an unreal difficulty to raise the clamp with the chain on it, up to "closed." You'll be trying to put a huge amount of torque on the bars with just the lifting rod and that's nearly impossible.
> 
> Just raise everything (bars and TT socket and TV hitch ball) up about 4 - 6 inches and you'll find that then the raising of the chain closer upwards is not difficult. The raising and lowering of the tongue is why I got an electric tongue jack!


 Hautevue has your answer.

It sounds like you have the right amount of pressure on the WD bars for YOUR set up. Ensure the ball is locked in your hitch, raise the tongue jack, this decreases the angle of your WD bars in relation to the trailer frame. Tension up the bars, you will find it much easier now. Lower your tongue jack. To disconnect do this in reverse.

The tongue jack is going to reduce the pressure while you put on and take off the bars and make it safer for you to do so. measurements from the hitch to ground when connected prior to tensioning are not going to be of much use and tongue weight is going to vary unit to unit due to owner loading.

IF you need to ensure everything is correct. Unhitched, measure the distance from bumper to ground (front and back of your tow vehicle). With your camper on level ground, Measure the distance from the frame to ground, front and back.

Connect and tension up the bars, as described above. Measure the distance from bumper to ground on your TV. Measure the distance frame to ground on your camper. The ideal set up will show a somewhat equal measured drop front and back of your tow vehicle and a level to slight nose high measure on your Camper.

Correct hitch head hieght, Hitch Head Angle, and WDH tensioning will maximize the WDH's ability to perform the way it was designed.

Give it a try, if your still having difficulty, snap a picture or two of your connected set up. That usually tells the story.

Good luck!

Eric


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

egregg57 said:


> The secret w/chains is to raise the whole magilla with the TV hitch ball connected to the TT hitch socket. Using the jack (mine is electric) I raise the whole rear end assembly about 4 - 6 inches. Then the jacking of the chain ends up is quite easy.
> 
> If the hitch and TT socket are low, it's an unreal difficulty to raise the clamp with the chain on it, up to "closed." You'll be trying to put a huge amount of torque on the bars with just the lifting rod and that's nearly impossible.
> 
> Just raise everything (bars and TT socket and TV hitch ball) up about 4 - 6 inches and you'll find that then the raising of the chain closer upwards is not difficult. The raising and lowering of the tongue is why I got an electric tongue jack!


 Hautevue has your answer.

It sounds like you have the right amount of pressure on the WD bars for YOUR set up. Ensure the ball is locked in your hitch, raise the tongue jack, this decreases the angle of your WD bars in relation to the trailer frame. Tension up the bars, you will find it much easier now. Lower your tongue jack. To disconnect do this in reverse.

The tongue jack is going to reduce the pressure while you put on and take off the bars and make it safer for you to do so. measurements from the hitch to ground when connected prior to tensioning are not going to be of much use and tongue weight is going to vary unit to unit due to owner loading.

IF you need to ensure everything is correct. Unhitched, measure the distance from bumper to ground (front and back of your tow vehicle). With your camper on level ground, Measure the distance from the frame to ground, front and back.

Connect and tension up the bars, as described above. Measure the distance from bumper to ground on your TV. Measure the distance frame to ground on your camper. The ideal set up will show a somewhat equal measured drop front and back of your tow vehicle and a level to slight nose high measure on your Camper.

Correct hitch head hieght, Hitch Head Angle, and WDH tensioning will maximize the WDH's ability to perform the way it was designed.

Give it a try, if your still having difficulty, snap a picture or two of your connected set up. That usually tells the story.

Good luck!

Eric
[/quote]
Measurements of the hitch while connected won't tell you much, but my suggestion was to measure the height of the hitch ball and the tips of the spring bars while NOT connected. These measurements are critical to ensure the ball is at the correct height for the coupler, and that the hitch head has the proper tilt for the spring bars. Without the right amount of tilt, the bars won't be able to transfer weight effectively, and with the addition of the Dual Cam, they won't control sway very well. And, yes sptddog, you can add the Draw-Tite Dual Cam components, they're the same as the Reese product.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Insomniak said:


> The secret w/chains is to raise the whole magilla with the TV hitch ball connected to the TT hitch socket. Using the jack (mine is electric) I raise the whole rear end assembly about 4 - 6 inches. Then the jacking of the chain ends up is quite easy.
> 
> If the hitch and TT socket are low, it's an unreal difficulty to raise the clamp with the chain on it, up to "closed." You'll be trying to put a huge amount of torque on the bars with just the lifting rod and that's nearly impossible.
> 
> Just raise everything (bars and TT socket and TV hitch ball) up about 4 - 6 inches and you'll find that then the raising of the chain closer upwards is not difficult. The raising and lowering of the tongue is why I got an electric tongue jack!


 Hautevue has your answer.

It sounds like you have the right amount of pressure on the WD bars for YOUR set up. Ensure the ball is locked in your hitch, raise the tongue jack, this decreases the angle of your WD bars in relation to the trailer frame. Tension up the bars, you will find it much easier now. Lower your tongue jack. To disconnect do this in reverse.

The tongue jack is going to reduce the pressure while you put on and take off the bars and make it safer for you to do so. measurements from the hitch to ground when connected prior to tensioning are not going to be of much use and tongue weight is going to vary unit to unit due to owner loading.

IF you need to ensure everything is correct. Unhitched, measure the distance from bumper to ground (front and back of your tow vehicle). With your camper on level ground, Measure the distance from the frame to ground, front and back.

Connect and tension up the bars, as described above. Measure the distance from bumper to ground on your TV. Measure the distance frame to ground on your camper. The ideal set up will show a somewhat equal measured drop front and back of your tow vehicle and a level to slight nose high measure on your Camper.

Correct hitch head hieght, Hitch Head Angle, and WDH tensioning will maximize the WDH's ability to perform the way it was designed.

Give it a try, if your still having difficulty, snap a picture or two of your connected set up. That usually tells the story.

Good luck!

Eric
[/quote]
Measurements of the hitch while connected won't tell you much, but my suggestion was to measure the height of the hitch ball and the tips of the spring bars while NOT connected. These measurements are critical to ensure the ball is at the correct height for the coupler, and that the hitch head has the proper tilt for the spring bars. Without the right amount of tilt, the bars won't be able to transfer weight effectively, and with the addition of the Dual Cam, they won't control sway very well. And, yes sptddog, you can add the Draw-Tite Dual Cam components, they're the same as the Reese product.
[/quote]

Insomniak, This information was provided, and was above and beyond what the OP was having difficulty with in the first place, which was cinching up the bars.

I am do not disagreeing with the hitch head and bars measurement prior to connecting. Doing that is the first step and gets one close to where they need to be. Beyond that point, once connected it is important that weight is being properly distrubuted forward, this is also what you are saying.

The additional information about checking the height of bumpers and frame to ground ensures that there has been proper weight distribution on the tow vehicle, and is an indication that more or less head tilt may be needed, an additional link, what have you, if anything at all is required.

Since the tongue weight is going to be different from owner to owner, because it depends on loading, and in addition the stoutness of the suspension on the rear of her SUV, an Armada, in comparison to a 1/2 ton, 3/4 ton vehicle, and indeed it's normal loading as well, measurements of the connected vehicle will help the driver, if they choose to do so, IF they need to do so, make the adjustments necessary to acheive the best set up possible.

In my case, for example, I did not normally tank water. When traveling to Washington DC, 2007, I put about 60 gallons of water in to our fresh water tank, adding 500 pounds to the front end of the 31QRS. The change in handling required me to change my hitch head angle at the first campground we stopped at to compensate.

In the end we are all trying to give this lady a hand in getting her difficulty under control. I think we have given her much more than she originally asked for.

Eric


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

Thank you all so much, even for more info than I asked for - better to be armed with more knowledge than less. I will do some measurements to confirm a few things, and come back with some pictures for a better analysis.

I'm certain I'm going to order the dual cam sway to add to my existing set up. I will probably use the same dealer to install, unless someone can recommend a dealer in the Reading/Pottstown, PA area that actually knows how to set one up. Sort of ticks me off that dealers suck so much as setting them up properly, because we all aren't as handy as you guys!


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## Bob in Virginia (Jul 15, 2010)

I did some checking on Good Sams and there were some good reviews for the service at Ziegler RV in Allentown. It isn't next door, but 30 miles may be worth it for good service. http://www.zieglersrv.com/


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## Blackjack (Jan 8, 2010)

I can think of about 5 or 6 RV dealers in the area. I'd go with whoever gives the best price, parts and installed. Once installed, you'll want to fine tune it yourself. I also had the Draw-tite and had the dual cam installed, but wasn't happy with the set up until I made a few tweaks to adjust.


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## #40Fan (Jul 7, 2011)

sptddog said:


> First thing I did was to buy a 36" long x 3/4" diameter pipe from Lowes to provide better leverage when connecting my Reese dual cam wdh. My wife can handle it with one hand with the longer pipe. I use 5 links on my setup. I agree with the other posters, friction anti-sway isn't sufficient for these trailers, you will need more.


I thought about this - but wasn't sure that was 'allowed', nor that I could get it onto the snap hinge to even use it. I might try this in addition to raising the tongue more. I was raising the tongue, but perhaps not nearly far enough - will experiement on that this friday when we go out for the weekend. Also want to see what, if any, sway I get on the PA turnpike. At 60 yesterday, I didn't feel anything except for a semi passing, but I want to make sure, and be more confident, because I too am in favor of better sway control. I actually asked the dealer who did the hitch for me (and of course, they said I wouldn't need it, which I knew they'd say), and agreed to give it a try and then add the dual-cams if needed. Which, because I don't trust the dealer, leads me to the next question....

My bars are actually draw-tite (which is Reese, but not 'Reese')...can the dual cam be added? Dealer said they could be.

I would like an equalizer, but I'd also like LT tires - so it's a toss up on how to work it all financially. If I can get this hitch working, or add dual cam for 200 bucks or so, I'd opt for that, and get the LT tires this winter (probably will need them anyhow, as my factorys on the last armada only lasted about 30-35 thousand miles). If the dual cams can't be added, and the friction isn't working, then maybe I get it this year, and hold off the LT tires until spring.

And yes, would LOVE a hensley...alas, 2 grand would buy tires, a dual cam, an equalizer, AND make a months payment on the camper. Maybe two months. 
[/quote]

The pipe might be too long and there for hit the ground! Easy fix would be to take it to a shop that has a torch and have them put a 30* bend in it about 3 inches from one end.


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

#40Fan said:


> First thing I did was to buy a 36" long x 3/4" diameter pipe from Lowes to provide better leverage when connecting my Reese dual cam wdh. My wife can handle it with one hand with the longer pipe. I use 5 links on my setup. I agree with the other posters, friction anti-sway isn't sufficient for these trailers, you will need more.


I thought about this - but wasn't sure that was 'allowed', nor that I could get it onto the snap hinge to even use it. I might try this in addition to raising the tongue more. I was raising the tongue, but perhaps not nearly far enough - will experiement on that this friday when we go out for the weekend. Also want to see what, if any, sway I get on the PA turnpike. At 60 yesterday, I didn't feel anything except for a semi passing, but I want to make sure, and be more confident, because I too am in favor of better sway control. I actually asked the dealer who did the hitch for me (and of course, they said I wouldn't need it, which I knew they'd say), and agreed to give it a try and then add the dual-cams if needed. Which, because I don't trust the dealer, leads me to the next question....

My bars are actually draw-tite (which is Reese, but not 'Reese')...can the dual cam be added? Dealer said they could be.

I would like an equalizer, but I'd also like LT tires - so it's a toss up on how to work it all financially. If I can get this hitch working, or add dual cam for 200 bucks or so, I'd opt for that, and get the LT tires this winter (probably will need them anyhow, as my factorys on the last armada only lasted about 30-35 thousand miles). If the dual cams can't be added, and the friction isn't working, then maybe I get it this year, and hold off the LT tires until spring.

And yes, would LOVE a hensley...alas, 2 grand would buy tires, a dual cam, an equalizer, AND make a months payment on the camper. Maybe two months. 
[/quote]

The pipe might be too long and there for hit the ground! Easy fix would be to take it to a shop that has a torch and have them put a 30* bend in it about 3 inches from one end.
[/quote]

Ohhhh, thats a GREAT idea, and my neighbor welds, he could do that - I'd trust him to bend a pipe!







Thanks for the idea!


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

How awesome is this...called the dealer this morning who I used to set up the WDH (and they did a pretty good job - at least it was level, drove well...just hard to hook up)...and he's installing the dual-cam TOMORROW. If nothing else, they are earning my business by their willingness to turn service around for me on a dime. Yay. I can follow the directions to tweak it (and I'll post pics here after the weekend) - but at least they can do the drilling and initial set up.

I'll let you know how things go after this weekend's trip!


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Next time you hook it up take some pictures to post so we can get a better idea of your setup.


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## sptddog (Mar 22, 2006)

thefulminator said:


> Next time you hook it up take some pictures to post so we can get a better idea of your setup.


I'll do that tomorrow - after they install the dual cam. Wonder if I can upload my my mobile phone....I guess I can post to photobucket from my phone, and then put them here!


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