# Omg,check Your Furnace.



## puffer (Aug 28, 2008)

I peeled the wood face off the front of my furnace to see what was under there and it felt like a hurricane under there. There are at least 5 air leaks on the furnace. There are about 6 round cutouts that just twist lock in there and 3 of them leaked and on the top there is a rectangle cutout that someone had pushed the corner down and was leaking so bad it would blow your hat off. Id have to say i was losing 20% of my heat through leaks around the furnace.Time to get the tape out.


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## 5th Time Around (Jul 8, 2008)

Can you add pictures to show the problem? Thanks


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## puffer (Aug 28, 2008)

Its extremely tight in the furnace compartment,but i will see what i can do......


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## puffer (Aug 28, 2008)

http://s360.photobucket.com/albums/oo45/pu...mper%20furnace/ Here are some pics. You can see scratches on the furnace where it looks like the furnace was used as a shelf along with all the saw dust on top. The side plugs needed twisted in more,but they still leak a bit.


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Amazing.....


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## jetjane (Feb 8, 2007)

Thanks for the heads up...we will have to check ours too. We don't get much heat coming out of our front bedroom vent so maybe it would help. Is the wood panel difficult to remove or is it just a few screws to remove?


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Just a few screws but its tight in their. I would turn the blower on and stick your hand carefully in their and feel for air leaks, use the foil tape for HVAC to seal up the holes.


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## jdpm (Apr 12, 2007)

You are right. I felt that the output of air in the floor vents was really poor from day one. So right after delivery, I tok off the access panel. Sure enough, 2 of the round twist lock outlet covers were laying on the floor. Just reconnecitng them increased the air flow a lot. phillip


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## jetjane (Feb 8, 2007)

Well the good news is that we removed the panel and found no noticeable holes or leaks. I turned on the furnace so my DH could see if he could feel any leaks but didn't really discover anything that way either. I guess the bad news is that we won't get any better output from the front floor vents after all since we had already replaced the bunkroom vent cover with one that closes.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

jetjane....When I bought my 31, I complained big time about the lack of heat to the front, almost nonexistent. To there credit Schaeffers did fix the issue. Under the step going up is where the duct work is. It goes from the cheap rectangle piping under the floor to a dryer style round hose to the upper rectangle piping for the upper vents. Schaeffer removed the step and added a second hose and then sealed both better than factory. Much better.

I still prefer the electric heater I use from home and let the campground supply me with electric heat. But if you do not have hook ups.

John


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

tdvffjohn said:


> I still prefer the electric heater I use from home and let the campground supply me with electric heat. But if you do not have hook ups.
> 
> John


I use an electirc heater as well if we have hook ups. Rarely does the furnace turn on unless it gets below 35 or so.

This is great info. Thanks for passing it along. Ill be bringing the OB home for a wash and wax this week and will check this out.


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## maddog (Dec 16, 2009)

We have a 2010 329fbh that had no heat in the front bedroom with no airflow. The dealer fixed the problem by replacing the 4" round hose that connects the two ducts with a 6" hose. now have much better flow and heat.


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