# Leveling Blocks Or Wood Planks To Level Travel Trailer???



## alabamahappycamper

OK, we are finally having our Sydney 310bhs delivered to our campsite Thursday. (We were scheduled to get it a couple of weeks ago but we wanted the dealership to add slide toppers which caused a delay.) Since this will be our first time out I want to make sure we are prepared. Would you experienced outbackers recommend the kind of plastic leveling blocks you buy from camping world or wood planks? If wood, what sizes should we get and what kind of wood would you recommend? We have levels to put on the outside of the camper (per info I found on this ever-so-helpful site!) and a couple of concrete blocks to put under the tongue jack. Do we also need wheel chocks? I would really appreciate your advice on this.


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## TwoElkhounds

Congratulations, just in time for summer!!

I learned very quickly that if you do any dry camping, state park camping, or National Park camping, you need a couple 2X6 or 2X8 planks that are long enough to fit under both wheels. Trying to lift your trailer up four or five inches on stacked boards can be nearly impossible, especially if you are pushing uphill. I have two 2X8's, one cut about 6 feet long, the other about 5.5 feet long. I store these in the bed of my truck. These provide a stable base when you need to raise one side of the trailer significantly. I then trim as required with 1X8 boards under the individual wheels.

DAN


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## swanny

I also like the wood planks / blocks. I do have the plastic ones but only used then once. the plastic seem to sink into the ground more than I like. their kind of like cookie cutters on the bottom. Wheel chocks are a MUST. I would never unhook without the wheel chock in place.

kevin


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## Lakewood

I looked at those giant Lego's at Camping World but figured I'd need 10 sets to have enough. I instead bought a couple pressure treated 2x8's and cut one to about 6' and cut two pieces about 2' that I put under the longer board if I need more height. I also have some scrap 1/2" plywood cut to 8"x24". If I need to get up on a big stack, I use one of the plywood pieces as a ramp to keep the boards from sliding. You can't have too many boards for leveling.


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## dhdb

Wood planks 2x6 or 2x8 (2) 2 footers, (2) 6 footers and (4-6) squares for under stabilizers. PS paint them yellow so they stick out against the ground and you won't forget them when you leave.


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## Bakerman

Congrats on the new trailer!!! Looking at your post the trailer is being delivered to your site, and no tow vehicle indicated...so you're setting it up as a seasonal? I'm sure others more experienced than I (none) will chime in next, but I'm thinking any wood might risk attracting insects. The seasonals I've seen used mostly concrete blocks and sturdy (permanent) leveling jacks, no wood, no plastic blocks...

Steve.


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## alabamahappycamper

yes, we will be staying put on beautiful Guntersville Lake. Didn't think about the insect issues, maybe we should use concrete blocks??? Thanks for pointing this out - I wonder how hard it is to get the trailer level using those?


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## TwoElkhounds

alabamahappycamper said:


> yes, we will be staying put on beautiful Guntersville Lake. Didn't think about the insect issues, maybe we should use concrete blocks??? Thanks for pointing this out - I wonder how hard it is to get the trailer level using those?


Seems to be shame to park such a beautiful trailer in one place. Maybe a diesel in your future.









You can use pressure treated wood if needed. However, I would hope that your seasonal site is level enough so you do not need much to level your trailer, maybe a couple 1X4's??

DAN


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## mena661

I use the plastic blocks. I have one package with 8 or 10 blocks but I think I'll need another package. No big deal, they're cheap.


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## Nathan

For a seasonal site, I would hope the site is pretty level. If it were me, I'd use pressure treated lumber.... Wait, that is what I do....









The reason is that in my first Seasonal site, I put down some concrete blocks and they crushed when I drove onto them because the ground was a little soft. Concrete is also hard on tires over the years, so wood (or just dirt would be better). The only reason not to do just dirt is if the trailer settles in in the spring and doesn't settle evenly. This is only going to be a big problem in the softer soils.


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## alabamahappycamper

I hope to have a TV in the future - I would love to be able to pull the outback to other places! DH and I slightly disagree on this point. I think he is blinded by the great bass fishing in Guntersville. But hey, I will take this one step at a time - we get the trailer then I begin working on the TV!!!


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## twincam

we use the lynx stackable levelers, lite weight, easy to use .


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## Southpaw

made this for under $15...


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## alabamahappycamper

I can't tell from the pic - are they joined together permanently? It looks really neat and clean - I will share with my DH. Thanks!

Jennifer


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## Southpaw

alabamahappycamper said:


> I can't tell from the pic - are they joined together permanently? It looks really neat and clean - I will share with my DH. Thanks!
> 
> Jennifer


Actually that was the debate between the finacee and I. We decided to allow for use elsewhere...put two screws in at an angel at the end of the top board into the bottom board. I can unscrew them if I ever need just one board.


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## VacaRick

We use the yellow lego blocks on jacks and TREX 2x6 boards for the wheels. The Trex boards replaced wood planks - they won't split or rot and are insect free.


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## Lakewood

VacaRick said:


> We use the yellow lego blocks on jacks and TREX 2x6 boards for the wheels. The Trex boards replaced wood planks - they won't split or rot and are insect free.


Hmm....Trex is a great idea. They are using Trex decking on one of my apartment projects. Time to go looking for scraps.


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## Chasn'Racin

This might just be a verbage thing, but make sure your jacks are just stabilizing your trailer, not leveling it. All leveling as close as possible should be done with planks or pads under the tires. THEN use the corner jacks to get it stabilized. The frames on these trailers are not made to handle the tweaking the jacks can put on them. If you jack one too much, you will notice it in the fitting of your doors and other things that don't quite fit right anymore. Just my $.02.


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## GlenninTexas

I went the wood route as well , 4 2' long 2x6 and 2 4' 2x6. I used red cedar instead of pressure treated. Much lighter and easier to handle.

Regards, Glenn


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