# Winterizing A 270bh



## aleximom (Mar 31, 2009)

I'm going to be winterizing my TT in the next few weeks (my first time ever). I've read, and read, and then read some more about what to do. I've also gotten great advice from TexasFriends. After all my reading and consulting with my local RV dealer (who is not the dealer I bought my RV from) I've decided I will blow out my lines and then use the pink stuff. However, I want to use as little as possible but still protect my TT from the harsh Chicago winters. I should mention that I bought a little 2 gallon air compressor to use and the fitting for the RV. The compressor can be regulated and I plan to use 40 - 45 PSI for the blow out.

Here's where my questions begin. I BELIEVE my TT came with a water heater bypass valve (I haven't checked yet), so assuming that to be the case . . . (if not I'll have way more questions), think I'm clear on bypassing and draining this (hoping I can get the darn thing loose!

In several of the threads I've read people talked about using a hose, hooked up to the inlet valve of the water pump and sucking the pink stuff straight out of the container. Love that idea. Except I have no idea where the water pump is, nor (here's the really dumb question) once I find the water pump how to identify the inlet valve. I'm thinking I can manage this, but only if I can find the darn thing! Does anyone know where it might be? (2010 270BH)

If I've NEVER used the outside shower do I need to blow pink stuff through it??

Somewhere someone mentioned not to forget to blow out the quickie flush. I get how to blow air through all the sinks/tub, etc., but how in the world do you blow out the quickie flush?? I have a vision in my mind that is simply NOT pretty (I don't care how clean that tank is).

I plan to leave all the inside faucets ON once I'm done to allow for expansion of the pink stuff -- want to confirm though that I should hand tighten the caps on hot/cold drains and fresh water drain. I'm thinking critters (mice/spiders) would love to crawl up in there if I leave those open.

Think that's it for now. Appreciate any advice! Suzanne


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

aleximom said:


> I'm going to be winterizing my TT in the next few weeks (my first time ever). I've read, and read, and then read some more about what to do. I've also gotten great advice from TexasFriends. After all my reading and consulting with my local RV dealer (who is not the dealer I bought my RV from) I've decided I will blow out my lines and then use the pink stuff. However, I want to use as little as possible but still protect my TT from the harsh Chicago winters. I should mention that I bought a little 2 gallon air compressor to use and the fitting for the RV. The compressor can be regulated and I plan to use 40 - 45 PSI for the blow out.
> 
> Here's where my questions begin. I BELIEVE my TT came with a water heater bypass valve (I haven't checked yet), so assuming that to be the case . . . (if not I'll have way more questions), think I'm clear on bypassing and draining this (hoping I can get the darn thing loose!
> 
> ...


Lots of questions! But that's a good thing. You need to get good answers and you came to the right place!

But first, I have a question. I, too, live in the great state of Illinois and I'm wondering why you are winterizing so early







. There are still a couple months of camping weather left in our region. If you are worried about freezing this early (and I don't - I start watching the weather forecasts closely after Oct. 1), you can just uncap the low-point drain lines, open all faucets, and drain the water heater until you REALLY have to winterize. If the night-time temps dip below freezing for a few hours, you should be OK with the lines just drained - IMHO. I've done it this way for over 10 years with no problems.

First off, there are several types of WH bypass valves. Mine is just a single valve that directs water to the heater inlet in one position and bypasses in the other. If you are getting hot water right now, then the other position is the bypass. If you have two bypass valves (inlet and outlet), then the other position for both valves will bypass. (Incidentally - I drain the water heater even in warm weather, if I am not going to be camping for a couple weeks. The water can get stale and smelly - depending on the last water source - if it sits in there for weeks at a time.)

I don't know where your pump is, but usually they are inside a compartment close to the city water and tank filler connections - just inside the wall. Mine is beside the bed, in front, beneath a carpeted lid that flips open. You can blow out the lines if you want, but I just drain mine (like I just stated) and bypass the water heater. Then I hook up the shower's sprayer hose (remove from tub spout and remove sprayer head) and connect that hose to the pump inlet after removing the tank suction line. The threads on the shower hose are the same as the pump inlet threads. Then just stick the end of the shower hose in a jug of pink stuff, turn ON the pump and open faucets one at a time (starting with the ones furthest from the pump) until pink flows out. Make sure to let enough pink stuff run down the drain in order to winterize the drain traps. (And the inlet is the side of the pump that has a hose that does not have a "Tee" hose coming from it. That side is the outlet, or pressure side.)

You can also do like I just did and buy a winterizing kit that allows you to permanently install a valve and suction hose to the inlet so all you have to do is turn the valve to draw in pink stuff. But if you are like most folks, the first year finds you buying all kinds of stuff that you absolutely need, so the shower hose will work if you want to keep the spending down for awhile.

I don't know how to winterize a Quickie Flush, but I'd guess that your screw-on fitting and compressor will do a good enough job. Someone else may have a better idea.

And DO NOT forget to purge the water behind the water hose connection outside. With the pump running and sucking up pink stuff, go outside, remove the little screen at the hose connection, then push the little button (check valve) IN. It will shoot out water, and then pink stuff, so stand off to the side when you do this. Otherwise, the line that "Tees" into the pump outlet (the one I mentioned earlier) will freeze and break, because it will be full of water and will not get winterized until you push the button IN. (That is, unless you blow out the lines with a compressor from the hose connection.)

And yes, even though you've never used the outside water, it is still connected to the water system, so it will have water in it and needs to be drained/blown out and then filled with pink stuff too.

And you are also correct about opening faucets to allow for expansion. Last winter we had some -20F temps (remember?) and even the pink stuff will turn to slush and expand in those extreme temps. I even leave my low-point drain caps off, after I am convinced that all of the water lines have been filled with pink stuff.

One other thing - be sure to completely drain your waste tanks (black and gray), give them a thourough cleaning and then let a little pink stuff sit in them, too. You can't help but get some in there as you fill drain traps and let pink stuff run through the toilet lines and the bowl. (Make sure you see full-strength pink stuff swirling down the bowl for several seconds. The toilet can get overlooked.) And make sure to leave the fresh tank drain valve OPEN, so no water can sit in it and break the plastic valve. (I know someone will argue about this!)

Now - these are my opinions, from experience. Some folks may take exception to a couple things, so go with your gut feeleings and always lean toward the safe side. (I've never had any critters crawl up in any open water lines of fresh tank drain valve.) And I'm sure someone else can help you pinpoint where your pump is located and answer the couple questions I could not.

Cheers,

Mike


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## aleximom (Mar 31, 2009)

Mike -

Thanks so much for the advice - I really appreciate it.

I know I'm winterizing sooner than needed, but figure I want to start now in case I do run into any "surprises" in completing the job. My TT is at Lake Carroll (near Galena) and I live in Glen Ellyn - so I can't just run back and forth to work on it.

I'm still unclear about figuring out the intake valve on the water pump. I'd install the winterizing kit, if someone can direct me to instructions on how to do it. Thanks much. Suzanne


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## shaston (Jul 2, 2009)

I also have a 270BH and the water pump is next to the bed on the same side as the slide. There is a boxed in compartment that is covered in carpet. to accces the pump, you will need to lift the matress and underbed storage up. Then you will be able to slide the carpeted top back toward the rear of the trailer. Shawn


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

It sounds like you have already received sound advise. I you are able to make the fall rally in Wisconsin, there will be a couple of us that plan to winterize there. Nothing like a hands on tutorial.


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