# 298Re Additional Ac Unit ?



## Bear25314 (Jul 12, 2011)

Took the new 2012 298re out for a spin this weekend. We live outside of Houston tx. We were parked in a semi shadded spot. Outside it was 106 during the day and low 90's at night. Very high humidity. Inside during the day the trailer was around 84 degrees. Once the sun went down it cooled of quite nicely. We made sure all the vents and intake/out take were taped up. Found that closing the bathroom door and bedroom door during the day helped in keeping the living area cooler.

Here's the question. I called the dealer today and asked about what would be involved in getting an additional ac unit installed. They told me that they have done that on our unit before. They drop a 13.5 unit in the bedroom. They said that it would require another 30 plug to run. That the plug would have to be plugged into shore power in addition to the 30amp plug for the trailer to run the unit. So, does that sound right? 2 30amp plugs plugged in once we arrive and set up to cool the trailer down? I asked him how that works considering most campsites only have a 30 or 50amp plug. He said to look for places that have both at all the sites and to then just us a converter on the 50amp to bring it down to 30amp. REally? Or he said that we could bring a generator. Yea, that will work in a campsite.... Anyways, anyone out there have an additional AC installed and can let me know how they are powered and around what all is involved and cost? Thanks for the help...


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## H2oSprayer (Aug 5, 2006)

I would suggest a trip to another dealer. Ever notice those large motor homes with multiple AC units on the roof? They are plugged into the 50amp service which provides an adequate power supply to run both air units. In fact....take a trip over to Keystone's Sydney website. They are now being built with 50amp service and prewired for a 2nd roof air.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

first do a search and look at the mod's I and others have done on the 295RE, same ones apply to the 298RE. they will dramatically improve the a/c performance. I added 4 more vents to the existing vents and it dramatically improved the cooling. In addition to taping all the vent openings and opening the plenum to match the ducting. bedroom has 2 vents, bathroom 1, 2 more added in the living area, one in each plenum run.

Second, installing a second a/c unit in the bedroom or vent may involve cutting the rafters to get the proper clearance and end up with the a/c unit on a plywood roof seam. not a good idea, easy way to end up with leaks. this is the case on the 295RE. the 298 is about 1 ft. longer in the bedroom so you may be able to install one without cutting rafters but I'd check very carefully first. The reason is they double up rafters on roof seams so you only have about 11" spacing between rafters. At the factory they space the plywood to avoid seams for vents, a/c etc. In the 295RE to avoid a plywood seam as they hit the front cap, you don't end up with any 14" openings in the bedroom.

and, given how wiring is run, I'd say converting to a 50A service wouldn't be that difficult. you'd need to upgrade the wire from the mousehole to the panel to the proper gauge and 3 wire, but it is easily accessible in the underbelly. then install a 50A fusepanel.


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

The dealer was partially right. The two options as I read it:

1. install a second 30a shore power line. This avoids the necessity of replacing the main panel to upgrade from 30a to 50amp. Most shore power posts have both a 30a and a 50a socket. Plug one shore power cable into the 30, and use an adapter and plug the adapter into the 50a socket, and then plug the second 30a line into the other end of the adapter. By doing this, the dealer saves you some hassle and expense. The second (new) shore power line would go directly to the new second air conditioner. The breaker in the shore power post serves to protect the lines.

2. convert your incoming power system to 50 amp service. Change the shore power line, run new wire from the mouse hole to the distribution panel (where your power converter is located) and then change the main 120vac panel to a 50 amp one. Then run power to your second air conditioner from a new 30 amp breaker in your new panel.

#2 is a bit of work, and certainly more expensive than #1.

Personally, I'd try all the suggested mods on the air distribution system first--they are far less expensive, and often work. If 25% of your air flow is being lost going into "attic" space, or leaking around joints, etc., a roll of foil tape and some work may save you a ton of hassle and significant funds.

Good luck!


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## Bear25314 (Jul 12, 2011)

Thanks for the replys y'all. I contacted another dealer, Holiday World outside of Houston, and they quoted me $1750 to install a unit that runs 110. That way I can plug it into a regular socket thats available along with the 30amp you find on the post. They told me that the unit would be installed in the front bedroom. That it would have it's own controls and would be a 13.5amp unit. Also they said that they would wire it very neatly wired where there would be and outlet on the side of the trailer where you open a small latch/door and simply plug an extention cord in to power the unit. Sounds nice and neat and all but a bit pricey. ​


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## hautevue (Mar 8, 2009)

The separate ac socket for powering the second air cond. unit seems interesting.

However, most of the shore power stands I've seen do not have a 120v socket on them. The ones I see have a 30a RV socket, and if equipped, also a 50a RV socket.

I'd suggest taking both adapters with you: 50a RV plug to 20a "household" socket. And a 30a RV plug to 20a household socket. I also carry a 50a plug to 30a socket; I actually have been assigned a space at campgrounds that had only 50a service, so how does one plug his 30a plug in? Dive into the storage area and get the adapter out of the milk crate!









That way, after you plug in your 30a shore power cable, you can plug your second air cond unit into the other adapter. Of course, use the regular household socket if the shore power stand is so equipped. BTW: be sure the 120v extension cord is at least #12, and not excessively long--IMHO max should be 25 feet. If you need longer, then buy a cord made of #10 wire. Voltage drop in extension cords is notorious and the last thing you want to do is feed your new air cond unit 105 volts or so and cook the new compressor motor!


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## Xcursion (Sep 10, 2011)

Bear25314,
We may move to Houston for a job I am considering and I am worried about the single AC Unit not being adequate for that area. I would like to hear what you have done. Will a unit mount in the bedroom ceiling vent? I think most Rv parks have a 120v 20 outlet at the shore power stand that you could use for the second AC Unit.,


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