# Slide Won't Go Out



## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Suddenly, after a year of reliable service, our side slide won't go out electronically. I had to crank it in and out manually this past weekend.

I checked all the fuses in the panel and they are all intact. Everything else works fine. I checked the 'breaker' fuses mounted on the front of the trailer and they both appear fine. I can see most of the wires under the slide and none appear to have sustained any damage.

My suspicion is the wall switch is kaput. Is there a simple way I could jump the switch to see if that is it?

I suppose it could be the motor too.... but the trailer is only one year old.

Any other ideas about what might be the source of my trouble?

I recently added a second battery and a perko switch, but that has not affected anything else.... could I have torked a wire on one of the breaker fuses mounted to the trailer frame while I was playing with the batteries? Does one of those fuses directly control the slide?

Thanks,
CJ


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

CJ999 said:


> I recently added a second battery and a perko switch, but that has not affected anything else.... could I have torked a wire on one of the breaker fuses mounted to the trailer frame while I was playing with the batteries? Does one of those fuses directly control the slide?
> 
> Thanks,
> CJ
> [snapback]116155[/snapback]​


Yes. One goes to the trailer and one to the slide.

The thermal auto reset breakers will easily be damage by over tightening. I would check it for voltage on both sides of the breaker and then if it is okay then look to the switch.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

If it looks like the switch...

If you pull the wall switch off, it should be very easy to jump the wire and bypass the switch. I have not seen the back side of one, but one wire should be the obvious hot lead (I'm guessing in the middle of the switch), and the other two will control the motor either retracting or extending.

Just jump from the hot lead to the other lead you desire.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## kampy (Feb 14, 2006)

CJ999 said:


> Suddenly, after a year of reliable service, our side slide won't go out electronically. I had to crank it in and out manually this past weekend.
> 
> I checked all the fuses in the panel and they are all intact. Everything else works fine. I checked the 'breaker' fuses mounted on the front of the trailer and they both appear fine. I can see most of the wires under the slide and none appear to have sustained any damage.
> 
> ...


Our slideout motor went out the first time we used the camper. So I wouldn't put to much stock in the fact that yours is only a year old. Ours was just 2 weeks old. Good luck.
Kampy


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Thanks guys.

I hope it isn't the motor but someone else told me many of the "accessories" put on travel trailers are quite old by the time they are actually used, meaning they are made and then sit on shelves for several years before getting any use/service. Life goes on if it is.

The thermal breaker fuse, what kind of voltage should I see when I test it?

The backside of the switch has four wires... one is black (pos?), one is white (neg?), one is green (in/out?) and one is red (in/out?) so if I understand, I should be able to jump the switch by putting a wire between the black and one either of the green/red wires???/


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## bill_pfaff (Mar 11, 2005)

Mine did the same thing last year

The battery connects to one of the busses (connectors) you will find in the front of the TT on the frame

I figured out that one or more of the wires had a bad connection (one bad connection was a poorly crimped crimp connector and the other was just a loose connection)

Once I jiggled everything just right the slide worked again. I ended up having to completly rework the two busses but everything works now.

Good luck 
Bill


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

You should read 12 + volts from both posts of the thermal breaker to ground. This indicates it is closed and has power to the slide. If you read volts only on one post then the breaker is open.


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## DANJOGAVINMO (Apr 17, 2004)

Had my switch go out in the first year, had to replace it. Just taking it out of the wall and wiggling it got it to work long enough to get the slide in.

Mine had a priopretary type of electrical connection that was a BEAR to remove from the old switch.

Seems like they had the switch in stock at my dealer, cost about $15 as I recall.

I didn't try any fancy manual override at the switch cuz I don't have a voltmeter at the time (I know it sounds crazy). The voltmeter is on my short list for father's day.

Danny


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

I am a relatively new volt meter owner myself. I may be seeing shades of senior citizenship here but I really love checking the trailer batteries with it!

I am not sure I understand exactly how to use it to check the thermal breaker fuse... Can I use it to check the interior wall switch too? It has numerous volt/ohm etc settings.

Any explanation/direction is appreciated!

Or maybe a link to a URL that explains it..


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

CJ999 said:


> I am a relatively new volt meter owner myself. I may be seeing shades of senior citizenship here but I really love checking the trailer batteries with it!
> 
> I am not sure I understand exactly how to use it to check the thermal breaker fuse... Can I use it to check the interior wall switch too? It has numerous volt/ohm etc settings.
> 
> ...


When you check battery voltage, you set the meter for DC volts and place the leads across the batteries.
After that, keep the black lead on the negative post of the battery and move the red lead to the thermal breaker and you should see the same voltage on both posts of the breaker.
If you have voltage on one post of the breaker and not on the other, then the breaker is bad.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Following Jim's instructions, the thermal breaker appears fine.

Moving toward the wall switch, how can I test that?


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

DANJOGAVINMO said:


> Mine had a priopretary type of electrical connection


I'm thinking maybe it would not be a bad idea to carry a spare switch in the toolbox. That is such a critical system, and if the part is proprietary...

Thanks for the info, Danny!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Devildog (Sep 8, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> DANJOGAVINMO said:
> 
> 
> > Mine had a priopretary type of electrical connection
> ...


Not a bad idea at all Doug, my problem is by the time it went bad, I would probably forget I had a spare one


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

CJ999 said:


> Following Jim's instructions, the thermal breaker appears fine.
> 
> Moving toward the wall switch, how can I test that?
> [snapback]117189[/snapback]​


I'm sorry, I can't really help you with the switch without a schematic.
I would go to to motor next and check for voltage there while somebody works the switch for you.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

The switch looks pretty simple too me... four posts: white, black, red, green. I'll take a picture and be back...


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

I'm a dork at this obviously but I'm thinking red makes it go one way, green makes it go the other. Can I test anything based upon what is shown in the picture?

Thanks again for all the help.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

check across black and white for 12 volts when switch is off.
then check across green and red for 12 volts when switch is pressed.
green and red should have 12 volts for in position(I think).
and 12 volts with reversed polarity for out position.

Lemme know if I'm confusing you.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

I think I follow you. Just treat the wires like they are a battery?

I think I just tried it - meter set to read 12v DC, pos meter probe on the black and the neg meter probe on the white. I got zilch for a reading...


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Most of these types of switches have a schematic on the side of them. Is there one on your switch??


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

That last message from me is inaccurate. I hafta put kids to bed and then I will clarify.. I had the meter on battery test. I just went out and moved it to "DCV" and got different results.... more to follow in a few.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

CJ999 said:


> That last message from me is inaccurate. I hafta put kids to bed and thne I will clarify.. I ahd the meter on battery test. I just went out and moved it to "DCV" and got different results.... more to follow in a few.
> [snapback]117264[/snapback]​


We'll be here


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Alright, I don't see a schematic. I'll look harder next time I go out.

I moved my meter from the 12v battery test to the DCV reading side and set it on "2".

I unhooked the inbound black and white wires from the switch, and put the appropriate probes on each... reading = .9

I hooked them back to the switch and touched the appropriate probe to the available space on the posts that came off the switch. Reading was .11

I needed a third hand to activate the switch so I haven't tried it yet but does it sound like I have my meter even set right?


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Readings of .9 and .11 are basically the same as zero in this case.
Meter will need to move to the next higher scale which should be 20.
The settings on the meter are for the maximum voltage you expect to see, so "2" will not be it. You are looking for 12 volts.
Can you see the motor?
Can you tell what color wires are coming from the motor?
This will help determine which ones from the switch go to tthe motor.


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## QbcOutback (Feb 14, 2005)

The reading on your meter is 0 Volt (0.11V is just inductive voltage in the wires). If your battery is OK, the problem is probably with the thermal breakers on the front of the trailers. I would start from there...

Have someone press the switch while you check voltage across the two terminals on the thermal breaker that feeds the slide. If you read 12 Volts then the problem is that breaker. A normal breaker will read 0 Volt.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

First you must identify the hot wires.

Check each wire to ground. Have the meter set on VDC and 20. This should show the actual voltage reading. When you check each wire to ground (have the wire clamped to a solid metal part that is connected directly to the frame) activate the switch to see if there is a reaction. You can also test the switch by completely disconnecting it and setting the meter on OHM's and then check post to post. A reading of zero means the posts are connected internally. Change the switch position for each combination of posts.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

After sleeping in a little (kids are just now getting old enough to be up without immediate supervision!!) I checked in to see if anyone had any advice. I am thankful for, and even surprised by, all the help!



Katrina said:


> check across black and white for 12 volts when switch is off.
> then check across green and red for 12 volts when switch is pressed.
> green and red should have 12 volts for in position(I think).
> and 12 volts with reversed polarity for out position.
> [snapback]117258[/snapback]​


I need clarification on how to do this. Meter set on???? Both probes to both wires? Doing it this way, I get zilch. One probe to hot wire, one probe to ground? I'm having a hard time reaching somehting I would consider a ground since the switch is so high off the ground and my wires are so short. Maybe this is why you sent the next post:



Katrina said:


> Can you see the motor?
> Can you tell what color wires are coming from the motor?
> This will help determine which ones from the switch go to tthe motor.
> [snapback]117270[/snapback]​


Yes the motor is easily accessible in a 28RSDS. Wires are visible..... pictures to follow in a few.

For anyone reading simply for edification, it's right under the rear dinette seat. There is a cover plate that has to be removed and then you can manually crank the slide in and out with a ratchet and a socket. It's a little time consuming comapared to using the switch but it is really easy if you are in a jam.



QbcOutback said:


> The reading on your meter is 0 Volt (0.11V is just inductive voltage in the wires). If your battery is OK, the problem is probably with the thermal breakers on the front of the trailers. I would start from there...
> 
> Have someone press the switch while you check voltage across the two terminals on the thermal breaker that feeds the slide. If you read 12 Volts then the problem is that breaker. A normal breaker will read 0 Volt.
> [snapback]117271[/snapback]​


This post confuses me a little. If the interior wall switch is broken, won't my reading be 12? I'll try it anyway! I've never been a word problem guy! I always have to learn by doing!!!



CamperAndy said:


> You can also test the switch by completely disconnecting it and setting the meter on OHM's and then check post to post. A reading of zero means the posts are connected internally. Change the switch position for each combination of posts.
> [snapback]117274[/snapback]​


I'm thinking this ohm test is going to be an important step that I didn't understand how to do.... still don't really but I will look it up with google.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

While all of the above are valid suggestions, start with checking for voltage at the motor while somebody works the switch for you.
Meter set on VDC 20 volt scale.
If you see 12 volts at the motor, that will eliminate the need to do any further testing at the switch.

I'll work on something in a little while on checking the switch using ohms.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Ok the first photo has two purposes.

First, this is what it looks like when you open the cover under the dinette and manually ratchet the slide motor in or out. Notice the ratchet with a 7/16 socket on the left side of the pic.

Second, notice the little tiny black wire in the upper right corner that isn't attached to anything. When I attached it to where it appeared to logically go, nothing changed so I am thinking I pulled it loose in the course of checking the wires. Either that, or I connected it back into the system wrong...

The orange and white wire appears to be out of play here. It just runs past everything without connecting to anything. 









Next picture is two groups of wires converging at the motor. Since a similar little black wire was connected into one of the groups, I reconnected the loose one to the other group, which is the group with the red wire nut on it.

The colors are all jumbled since RV's have black pos white neg and the rest of the world uses red pos black neg, so pay no attention to the color of the wires going in or out of the groupings. I'm thinking now that these two groupings are what I need to be testing for juice? Suggestions?


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Do you see 12 volts when testing across these two wire groups?
Note: somebody will have to work the switch for you in order to see any voltage.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Katrina said:


> Do you see 12 volts when testing across these two wire groups?
> Note: somebody will have to work the switch for you in order to see any voltage.
> [snapback]117408[/snapback]​


In other words, put one probe on each and hit the switch?


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

I disconnected the wire groupings and isolated the pos/neg wires that run out of the switch and to the motor.

I set the meter to measure DC Volts on "20" .

I touched one probe to each wire while my son activated the switch. My reading was .07 when the switch was activated one direction, -.07 when it was activated the other.

Is that enough juice?


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

CJ999 said:


> I disconnected the wire groupings and isolated the pos/neg wires that run out of the switch and to the motor.
> 
> I set the meter to measure DC Volts on "20" .
> 
> ...


Nope, not enough juice.
Should have 12.0 volts when activated one way and -12.0 volts when activated the other way.
Starting to sound more and more like a bad switch to me.
I think I would check with the dealer to see if they have a replacement switch in stock.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Thanks Gents. I like this conclusion and hope that it is accurate because it seems like a lot cheaper solution than a new motor!!!! Plus, I suspected the switch or the thermal breaker right from the start since they seem like the weakest points.

I'll get a new switch and let you know how it turns out.

CJ


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## QbcOutback (Feb 14, 2005)

Check your thermal breaker first! Don't spend big money on a switch that's probably good, when it takes a couple minutes to check a cheap breaker...


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

QbcOutback said:


> Check your thermal breaker first! Don't spend big money on a switch that's probably good, when it takes a couple minutes to check a cheap breaker...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


He already checked the breaker and had 12 volts passing through it to the switch.
Sounds like the breaker is ok to me.


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## lbnaz (Feb 23, 2006)

I had my slide not work after I repositioned the junction box up front on the frame near those thermal breakers on the frame. There is a white wire that was attached to the junction box by the box cover screw. this supplies the ground for the slide motor. After I tightened this up, the slide worked again. My model is the 31RQS so i don,t know if it applies to you. I would be suspicious of a loose connection up front where you did the perko switch work. If it worked before that & then not after I Think you really need to check that area over good. Good luck! let us know what you found.


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## QbcOutback (Feb 14, 2005)

Sometimes on those breakers, corrosion builds up and the contact gets resistive. So the voltage seems ok when there is no load, but since current can't get through, the voltage drops rapidly when you try to drive a big load like a slide motor. That's why I suggested to check the voltage at the breaker posts while someone actuates the switch inside. A normal breaker will not show significant voltage between its terminals while current get through it.

These breakers cost about $3 each, having one or two spares in the toolbox might be a good idea...


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

QbcOutback said:


> Sometimes on those breakers, corrosion builds up and the contact gets resistive. So the voltage seems ok when there is no load, but since current can't get through, the voltage drops rapidly when you try to drive a big load like a slide motor. That's why I suggested to check the voltage at the breaker posts while someone actuates the switch inside. A normal breaker will not show significant voltage between its terminals while current get through it.
> 
> These breakers cost about $3 each, having one or two spares in the toolbox might be a good idea...
> [snapback]117551[/snapback]​


I don't even have an electric slide and i carry a spare breaker


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

lbnaz said:


> If it worked before that & then not after I Think you really need to check that area over good. Good luck! let us know what you found.
> [snapback]117549[/snapback]​





QbcOutback said:


> Sometimes on those breakers, corrosion builds up and the contact gets resistive. So the voltage seems ok when there is no load, but since current can't get through, the voltage drops rapidly when you try to drive a big load like a slide motor. That's why I suggested to check the voltage at the breaker posts while someone actuates the switch inside. A normal breaker will not show significant voltage between its terminals while current get through it.
> 
> These breakers cost about $3 each, having one or two spares in the toolbox might be a good idea...
> [snapback]117551[/snapback]​


It worked fine immediately after the perko switch was installed. I died a couple trips later. I will do the check you recommend and I will get an extra breaker either way! Those things are just to delicate for me to be roaming around without two extra. I'm famous for overtightening things till they break!


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

QbcOutback said:


> Check your thermal breaker first! Don't spend big money on a switch that's probably good, when it takes a couple minutes to check a cheap breaker...


SOME WEEKS LATER:
For the record here, this was the winning entry. I went to the RV dealership to get a new switch but they didn't have one. SO I came home and went over everything again. This time I cleaned the thermal breaker with carb cleaner and put a wrench on the nuts. Lo and behold the nuts were loose and I could not see this by looking at it. I tightned them up, put the switch back on, and bam! I'm back in business!!!!


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## kmcfetters (May 7, 2005)

I just got 2 extra ones in the box...because I hear they go out so easy---glad everything worked out!


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