# Leak Near Tub



## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

We have developed a leak from the tub on our 2005 28RSDS. I pulled the cover on the side of the tub, and while I can't see much, it appears pretty clear the leak is coming from the pressure fittings at the tub faucet. So I believe if can I take the faucet off and gain access to the fittings, it will be a fairly easy fix.

Taking the faucet off
I removed the screws that hold the whole faucet plate to the wall, and just as I was about to dig a knife into the caulk, I realized there appears to be a gasket on the back of the faucet that looks like a much easier break apart point.

The black line behind the faucet in these pictures is the gasket: 


















So, how do I get the faucet off? Do I pull plugs on the handles and unscrew the screws inside? If so, how do I get the cover plugs out? I cannot feel any obvious pry point. Or, do I unscrew the handles really hard? I prefer not to pull the wall covering but it doesn't really initimidate me if I have to.

Yes, this would be a great time to ditch the tub and make some upgrades like we have recently seen posted but we are leaving on vacation in two weeks so I think prudence must prevail right now. I better just fix it and go, instead of biting off more than I can chew before we leave.

As always, I appreciate the input. 
CJ


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I have not taken the inside shower/faucet apart but from other similar faucets, they are typically held in place with too large nuts the screw onto the hot and cold water inlets to clamp the faucet to the wall.

The 4 screws you took off will be your only access unless you can reach them from the access panel from the side of the tub. You also may not have much play in the lines so it may be that you have to disconnect the fittings under the tub. Then pull the faucet out with these stubs connected. Repair/tighten the fitting on the back of the faucet and then fish them back into the wall and under the tub for reconnection.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

I could be under-estimating the amount of free play but it looks like enough to move the faucet around. They appear to be continuous under the tub to some point well away from the leak...

There are clearly screws in the hot and cold water handles, but they are covered but a plastic trim cap. If I take that cap off, an unscrew the screws, will the faucet move off? If this will work, how do I get the trim caps off without destroying things?


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

I just did this my very self two days ago when my floor was leaking from there...

I took the four screws off and the entire contraption/faucet fell forward ..

I then was alble to tighten everything from the rear of the removed panel...

not only was my hose very loose and leaking .. but the faucet was moving around...


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Is it leaking all the time or just when you use the shower??

We had a similar leak in our 21RS and the cause was water getting past the gasket when we used the shower. I put a bead of silicone caulk around the faucet and it stopped.

Mike


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Like Ghosty said, the access is done by removing the four screws and removing the whole "Contraption" from the wall.
There is no way to remove the faucet by taking the handles off.


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Ok, I got the contraption off by removing the four screws and pulling the whole mess away from the wall. In case you guys didn't know this already, you can't get the faucet off by removing the screws in the handles.... hahaha... I tried that. Hopefully, I put it back together right. My wife is gonna kill me if I screwed somehting else up in the process







She is having a coniption because I have waited this long already!!!

In assessing things out there, I believe there is a strong possibility water is getting past the black gasket. I deduced this myself after looking at the layout and realizing it only happens when the shower is going... then I came in and read all the posts so it looks like I was thinkin' logically. It's possible the shower connect has been spraying water back into the black gasket...

For anyone following the post, here is what the pressure fittings behind the faucet look like when the faucet comes off:


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Thanks for adding the pics. It makes it very easy for us to figure it out...in the future...if needed.


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Never had to take mine apart yet
But thanks for the info and the pictures

Don


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## pjb2cool (Apr 8, 2004)

Great job in the "do it yourself" department! Really like the pictures, in case I am ever in the same predicament


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

After the last post I filled my water tank and pressurized my water lines by turning on the water pump. I opened the faucet into the tub and it flowed aggressively with no visible leaks from the pressure fittings. I reconnected the shower hose to the faucet to ensure it was not improperly connected, then I opened the showerhead flow. No visible leaks to any pressure fittings.

With the shower head laying in the tub so it wasn't sraying any water on the wall, I plugged the tub and filled it by letting water flow from the faucet and the shower head, switching back and forth periodically. With the tub completely full, I had no water on the outside floor. Holding my breath, I removed the plug from the tub and let the water drain out. The last thing I wanted was a leak from the drain pipe. No leak, dry floor prevailed.

So it appears fairly conclusive that it was one of the two connection points between the faucet and the wall. I went to garage and got some fresh caulk, but suddenly I can't find my caulking gun, so I am headed to the Home Store to get a new one... I'll have two when I find the lost one. Don't tell my wife







.

While I am there I am going to try to get some pull down shades to replace the blinds, and a new switch for the slide out. Stay tuned, I'll be back in a few hours.


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Thanks for the info and pics, CJ!









We had a leak in ours as well, but fortunetely we were able to reach the offending fittings through the access panel on the front of the tub and tighten them up. Most of these leaks seem to just be the fittings not tightened enough. I guess Gilligan must have had other things on his mind.









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Back from teh home store. Everything is caulked. Lots of caulk! Turns out that black gasket behind the faucet isn't much of a gasket... it's a hard plastic plate. I caulked it too. I'll see how it works after it dries.


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## sircarryalot (Jun 23, 2005)

CJ999 said:


> We have developed a leak from the tub on our 2005 28RSDS. I pulled the cover on the side of the tub, and while I can't see much, it appears pretty clear the leak is coming from the pressure fittings at the tub faucet. So I believe if can I take the faucet off and gain access to the fittings, it will be a fairly easy fix.
> 
> Taking the faucet off
> I removed the screws that hold the whole faucet plate to the wall, and just as I was about to dig a knife into the caulk, I realized there appears to be a gasket on the back of the faucet that looks like a much easier break apart point.
> ...


Some parks we visit now a days have very high water pressure. In some cases I'm sure it gets to 90 p.s.i. I would recommend getting a hose regulator pre-set at 50 p.s.i. and just attach it to the hose. This would insure that your plastic fittings are not put under more stress than they are made to handle.

Mike


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## CJ999 (Aug 11, 2005)

Good point on the pressure regulator. I actually have a 25 pound regulator. I went to a campground recently where they made you sign a waiver that you understood their water pressure was really high!!!

I don't think that trip was the cause 'cuz I used my regulator there and it started while we were dry camping, using the pump. I am seriously starting to suspect that my showerhead hose was not connected properly and it was spraying water against the black plastic "gasket", and that gasket was letting water through. I may have been able to fix this simply by reconnecting the shower head hose. I haven't done my tests yet though so I may also be speaking too soon!!!


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

I did what you did to ALL the plumbing connections before the maiden voyage (way back in 1994







). Almost all of them were a bit loose. No water leaks in almost three camping seasons.

Randy


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Castle Rock Outbackers said:


> I did what you did to ALL the plumbing connections before the maiden voyage (way back in 1994
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow! That was a long time ago, Randy!
Time really flies when you are having fun, eh?









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## nascarcamper (Jan 27, 2005)

If you still have a leak you may want to take a close look at the crack between the shower walls and the tub base. Mine was following the crack to the corner and running down the trim and in the floor making it appear to be coming from under the tub. If you find that to be the case you just need to run a bead of chaulk from the outside corner back to the tub so it will divert the water into the tub. I had everything apart several times before I discovered that was going on. Hope you found the fix.


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## jeff28rsds (Jul 16, 2005)

Wow- DejaVu stuff. I just had to pull my whole faucet rig apart two days ago. Here is my version, and what I did to fix.
See the parts break down image below. It's laid out as a dissassy image.

1) Take out the 4 screws on the almond face (as you have done in image 1). 
2) It's clear silicone holding it on. Gently get it off. (yup...Pry away there).
3) The hose fittings will be in the back w/ white twist on's. Get a marker and mark hot & cold. (do it! I forgot in about 10mins which was which. they will float around on you.)
4) Once you get the source fittings off, take the faucet assy, and remove the two large white nuts on the faucet thread stems. 
5) You'll need to remove the shower source pull knob too. Unscrew it off. 
6) Undo the screws holding the H & C water valve knobs. (pry out the little H or C cap on top first).
7) pop off the opaque little white cap on each stem. (what you turn for the water. )
8) Unscrew the white stem (like a 7/16 or so.. I used my channel locks).
9) Yep...It's even got a rubber washer if you ever get a drip 
10) you'll need to pull the whole assy out fo the plastic shell.

You can put it all back together minus the shell and see what leaks. I did that and saw what happened instantly. The shower attacehment spigot threads into the main pipe w/ 3 little threads. It got yanked and I could nt get it to seal. Notice the JB Weld over it. I've yet to put it back together.

PS- Notice the two little yellow compression fittings in the end of the source pipes. Pull them off before they fall into the wall.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Whew...that is one detailed picture you have there. Thanks for going to all the work to get this lined up for us.


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## jeff28rsds (Jul 16, 2005)

Thanks. I was just odd that I had all the parts sitting here on the table and I saw that post. Had to lay them all out for all. My quest also involved learning how to get images into the posts too. So ,at this point I'll no longer fall back on the 'newbie' term for myself. I wanna be a sophomore now!











Oregon_Camper said:


> Whew...that is one detailed picture you have there. Thanks for going to all the work to get this lined up for us.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

jeff28rsds said:


> Whew...that is one detailed picture you have there. Thanks for going to all the work to get this lined up for us.


Thanks. I was just odd that I had all the parts sitting here on the table and I saw that post. Had to lay them all out for all. My quest also involved learning how to get images into the posts too. So ,at this point I'll no longer fall back on the 'newbie' term for myself. I wanna be a sophomore now!









[/quote]

Well, you have 2 squares below your name you are officially promoted out of the Freshman ranks and into the Sophomore class. Congrats!!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

A picture is worth a thousand words but only one post. Great job on the repair.


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