# Firestone Or Air Lifter Air Bags



## Bear25314 (Jul 12, 2011)

I have a 2011 F250 6.2 gas. I tow a Keystone Outback 298re travel trailer. We pack the bed of the truck with all the usual gear. I'm looking into adding some air bags to the suspension and have been doing the usual research and have narrowed it down to these two manufacters, Air Lifter or Firestone. I want to have the bags along with the compresser on the truck to adjust on the fly. I do like the wireless controller available for both.

Anyone out there that can advise me on either system and what you would recommend?

Thanks y'all.


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

I've been toying with that as well. Subscribed to see where this discussion goes.

My good friend with a 2007 Tundra CrewMax added the Air Lift version to his truck a few months ago. He has the in-cab single gauge and the push button to inflate on the fly, not the wireless version. He's happy with his choice. Oh, they are the Air Lift 5000 model if I remember correctly. I like the wireless version too.


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

I have the Firestone Ride-rite bags on my truck and have a few buddies that do as well. I dont have the compressor yet as I wanted to try them for a season and make sure I like them and they helped like I had hoped before shelling out the additional coin for the compressor. They work great for me. I only did the rear and bought a Tee fitting to tie the two bags together since I wasnt looking to do any side to side balancing. They had a good heavy durable feel and fit up well during install. I'd buy them again.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

A bit off topic but always keep in mind that the adjust on the fly is great but it also affects the weight distribution hitch and the sway control function.


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## rsm7 (Aug 8, 2009)

I have Air Lift 5000 bags on my F250. I don't have the compressor. The truck really doesn't need much help. I played around with different pressures while towing and found it only needs about 20lbs. Rides pretty good for me. I don't feel the need to pay for a compressor. I put 4000lbs of gravel in the bed last summer and if I remember right I had 30lbs (maybe 40 at the most) pressure. The truck rode nice and level and actually felt pretty stable. My friend bought Firestones for his F250 with no compressor and is equally pleased. If I remember right there are two different applications depending on whether or not you have a fifth wheel hitch and he bought Firestones for no fiver because the deal was better on that and I bought the AirLift for fiver because they were cheaper. I helped him install his and I think mine were easier. We had to drill holes in his frame for the Firestones. Not sure if that was because of the fiver/no fiver part or just a pure Firestone design. Plan on a half day for the install (just the bags), jack the truck up and remove the back wheels so you have some room to work. At the time I found the best deal here: http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/. Good prices and fast shipping.


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## Troy n Deb (Aug 31, 2009)

I have Firestones on the Silverado 1500. They work very well. I run about 40lbs. Takes the bucking out.


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## clarkely (Sep 15, 2008)

you can use either bag with either system - years ago i remember reading somewhere that the seams are better where they meet the mounting plate on a firestone....but i bet they are made by same manufacturer anymore and simply branded....... Some folks choose to just add timbrens or a heavier spring and are happy......

personally i have bagged my trucks for the last 8 years and i swear by the convenience of airing up when and where you need it - I have always done a compressor as i like the convenience of it and you can also add on the fly for changing road conditions - for example a bad road for rhythmic bucking like 95 in southern South Carolina YUCK!! and air back to where you ride best as highway improves.

I have had standard in cab switch and the "smart air" i am on my second smart air as the manifold went after 2 or three years on the first one.......... i didnt have time to find or rig an aftermarket one before a trip and a new system wan't much more than just the manifold............. hopefully that was just a fluke as i like the convenience of the smart air.......

I am a proponent of air bags


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## Joonbee (Jan 18, 2008)

I added Air Lift to my 05 Dodge adn had great success. Got them at ourdealsrock.com, they are also on ebay. Best price I found.

My current Ford has the Contitech Air bags which are basically the Firestone's as the Contitechs are not around anymore, but all the parts cross tothe Firestone for replacement.

I have the single fill, no compressor. Leave about 10-15lbs of air in them empty and I have found that I get a good psi when loaded and just set it to that each time. I did just buy replacement springs, so I will be going thru the process again to see what feels best.

Good luck, Jim


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## Bob Landry (Apr 18, 2011)

CamperAndy said:


> A bit off topic but always keep in mind that the adjust on the fly is great but it also affects the weight distribution hitch and the sway control function.


Not really because changing the height of the rear end does not change the geometry between the truch, hitch and trailer.You are not changing the hitch angle or tension on the WD bars. Actually, Reese's installation instructions say to level the trailer by moving the ball height up or down after adjusting the WD, so I doubt they would say to do that and not tell you to go back and readjust the WD if it were needed.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Bob Landry said:


> A bit off topic but always keep in mind that the adjust on the fly is great but it also affects the weight distribution hitch and the sway control function.


Not really because changing the height of the rear end does not change the geometry between the truch, hitch and trailer.You are not changing the hitch angle or tension on the WD bars. Actually, Reese's installation instructions say to level the trailer by moving the ball height up or down after adjusting the WD, so I doubt they would say to do that and not tell you to go back and readjust the WD if it were needed.
[/quote]
The Reese instructions I've seen always say to adjust the ball height before installing the spring bars....unless something has changed or is different because of the air bags.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

Herbicidal said:


> I've been toying with that as well. Subscribed to see where this discussion goes.
> 
> My good friend with a 2007 Tundra CrewMax added the Air Lift version to his truck a few months ago. He has the in-cab single gauge and the push button to inflate on the fly, not the wireless version. He's happy with his choice. Oh, they are the Air Lift 5000 model if I remember correctly. I like the wireless version too.


It's no secret that the Tundra (especially the CrewMax) has a very bouncy ride on the highway - especially in Southern California where we have sectional concrete and big expansion joints. Over time, something happens to those expansion joints and creates little bumps. As you ride over them, at around 65-70mph, the bouncing in the truck is almost intolerable. I'm not talking about being bumpy because it's a truck, I'm talking shaking so bad that stuff falls off of the seats, teeth rattle and some people get nauseous. It's one of the biggest complaints about the Tundra (search the internet and YouTube for "Tundra bed bounce"). At least one guy actually got Toyota to buy his truck back because the ride was so severe. People in other parts of the country with asphalt freeways think we're completely nuts. The 64 dollar question is, would air bags do anything to improve the ride on sectional concrete freeways? Does your friend have this problem, and did air bags help any?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Bob Landry said:


> A bit off topic but always keep in mind that the adjust on the fly is great but it also affects the weight distribution hitch and the sway control function.


Not really because changing the height of the rear end does not change the geometry between the truch, hitch and trailer.You are not changing the hitch angle or tension on the WD bars. Actually, Reese's installation instructions say to level the trailer by moving the ball height up or down after adjusting the WD, so I doubt they would say to do that and not tell you to go back and readjust the WD if it were needed.
[/quote]

Adjusting the air pressure up has the same effect as if you were sitting still and used your tongue jack to raise the rear of the truck. It will result in the unloading of the weight distribution bars and for most of the popular brands of sway control it will reduce their effectiveness.

As for the Reese instruction I think you may be miss reading them. Ball height is determined before the head angle or bar adjustment is made.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Insomniak said:


> I've been toying with that as well. Subscribed to see where this discussion goes.
> 
> My good friend with a 2007 Tundra CrewMax added the Air Lift version to his truck a few months ago. He has the in-cab single gauge and the push button to inflate on the fly, not the wireless version. He's happy with his choice. Oh, they are the Air Lift 5000 model if I remember correctly. I like the wireless version too.


It's no secret that the Tundra (especially the CrewMax) has a very bouncy ride on the highway - especially in Southern California where we have sectional concrete and big expansion joints. Over time, something happens to those expansion joints and creates little bumps. As you ride over them, at around 65-70mph, the bouncing in the truck is almost intolerable. I'm not talking about being bumpy because it's a truck, I'm talking shaking so bad that stuff falls off of the seats, teeth rattle and some people get nauseous. It's one of the biggest complaints about the Tundra (search the internet and YouTube for "Tundra bed bounce"). At least one guy actually got Toyota to buy his truck back because the ride was so severe. People in other parts of the country with asphalt freeways think we're completely nuts. The 64 dollar question is, would air bags do anything to improve the ride on sectional concrete freeways? Does your friend have this problem, and did air bags help any?
[/quote]

The concrete road way design has improved over the years and most now use alignment pins between the sections to reduce the sections from tilting. The tilting of the concrete sections is what makes them so bouncy. Combined with the section length which on some sections will match a natural harmonic of the wheel base of your truck and you would think you are at the rodeo.

One of the worst sections I have ever traveled is in South Dakota, they have been rebuilding it for the past few years and on the sections they have repaired it is night and day different on how it feels.


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## W.E.BGood (Jan 15, 2011)

I had the AirLift 1000 with on-board compressor and remote control installed on my '08 Tundra DC last year...at the time there was a $100 rebate and lifetime warranty included. I have a 1K/10K Equalizer set-up for the 250RS. All that said, there were 2 reasons I had the bags put on:
#1. There are enough stretches of road we regularly travel to up north that are the concrete paved sections and some are just that I'd get a "harmonic bouncing" effect between the truck and trailer that makes us sea-sick. The bags cure it by running them up to 25-35 lbs on those stretches, and the ride's very comfortable and stable.
#2. For short hauls around the area, the bags allow me to trailer without messing with the WD bars...just hook-up and go. It also really makes it easier backing the trailer into our driveway without the WD bars as we have a high center road crown and low gutters that really put a strain on the bars.
IMO though, I think the truck's empty ride quality on concrete paved roads has suffered, being more jittery, even with just the minimum 5 lbs. in them. Asphalt's still fine.
Regards, BGood

Another advantage of the remote is no air lines have to be run to the cab for gauges.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

W.E.BGood said:


> I had the AirLift 1000 with on-board compressor and remote control installed on my '08 Tundra DC last year...at the time there was a $100 rebate and lifetime warranty included. I have a 1K/10K Equalizer set-up for the 250RS. All that said, there were 2 reasons I had the bags put on:
> #1. There are enough stretches of road we regularly travel to up north that are the concrete paved sections and some are just that I'd get a "harmonic bouncing" effect between the truck and trailer that makes us sea-sick. The bags cure it by running them up to 25-35 lbs on those stretches, and the ride's very comfortable and stable.
> #2. For short hauls around the area, the bags allow me to trailer without messing with the WD bars...just hook-up and go. It also really makes it easier backing the trailer into our driveway without the WD bars as we have a high center road crown and low gutters that really put a strain on the bars.
> IMO though, I think the truck's empty ride quality on concrete paved roads has suffered, being more jittery, even with just the minimum 5 lbs. in them. Asphalt's still fine.
> ...


Crap, a more jittery ride is the last thing I need.....


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## W.E.BGood (Jan 15, 2011)

"Crap, a more jittery ride is the last thing I need....."

Didn't mean to scare you, Insomniak. My Tundra SR5 is a 4X4 TRD "Off Road" package. Those Bilstein shocks in the package make the ride stiffer than the Limited...I know, I drove a Limited before I got the SR5 and it was a significantly smoother ride. AND, the bags were installed this fall, had them for 2 trips and it made the towing difference I noted above. Being retired I don't drive the truck much otherwise and the roads here in the midwest winters become REALLY lumpy, so I MAY not be giving the ride a fair shake compared to summer.
Last week my son borrowed the truck for a few errands and took his 8 1/2 months pregnant wife along. They got back and first thing in the door Amy says, "Holy COW your truck rides rough! I was wondering I'd have the baby before we got back from the grocery store." Whine, whine, whine...she ain't had it yet (just kidding). But I offfered to take her for another ride yesterday to get things kick-started...she declined.

Regards, BGood


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## rsm7 (Aug 8, 2009)

Insomniak my impressions of empty driving have been that they seem to settle down the rear of the truck over rough roads and potholes etc. But whoop d doo's and expansion joints seem to be exaggerated, especially if you have too much air pressure. I found 5-9 lbs seems about right. Any more and it gets bouncy over whoops.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

W.E.BGood said:


> Last week my son borrowed the truck for a few errands and took his 8 1/2 months pregnant wife along. They got back and first thing in the door Amy says, "Holy COW your truck rides rough! I was wondering I'd have the baby before we got back from the grocery store."


Good thing as cleaning the seat after that would have been tough.


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

Keep in mind that when you are adjusting your air bags "on the fly", your ride height was already set up for your WD bars. You basically use air bags to level out the vehicle for ride quality to help the WDH system, instead of the WDH system doing all of the work for ride leveling. When you have to make adjustments ( I dont have a compressor, but have stopped to add air from my portable tank a few times on poor highways), you arent talking about much. Once you have your ride height and WDH system set how you like it, 5 psi adjustments up or down makes a difference. It may only be an inch in ride height but will change how your system behaves much more than you would expect for the little bit of movement. The air bags do make hooking up your WDH bars nice by being able to inflate to a higher pressure to raise the rear of the TV, hook up the bars, and then let the air out to your predetermined air setting to load the WDH bars.


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## Bear25314 (Jul 12, 2011)

Jewellfamily said:


> Keep in mind that when you are adjusting your air bags "on the fly", your ride height was already set up for your WD bars. You basically use air bags to level out the vehicle for ride quality to help the WDH system, instead of the WDH system doing all of the work for ride leveling. When you have to make adjustments ( I dont have a compressor, but have stopped to add air from my portable tank a few times on poor highways), you arent talking about much. Once you have your ride height and WDH system set how you like it, 5 psi adjustments up or down makes a difference. It may only be an inch in ride height but will change how your system behaves much more than you would expect for the little bit of movement. The air bags do make hooking up your WDH bars nice by being able to inflate to a higher pressure to raise the rear of the TV, hook up the bars, and then let the air out to your predetermined air setting to load the WDH bars.


I decided to go with the Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 air bags with the wireless on board compresser. The whole unit cost about $750. I put a call out to an installer and they told me I was looking at around $800 for the install. Ouch! Air Lift says that it is a "no drill, do it yourself" install. Says it takes 3 hrs to do. But, after reading a lot of the reviews, people say that it is a lot more involved and takes about 6 hrs. Anyone out there install one of these systems themselves? Was it really that hard? Thanks y'all.


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