# Electrical Problem



## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

Today I moved my slideout partial out to retreive some items above the storage space. Moved the slideout back in. Everything is OK. Shore power was connected the entire day. Tonight we hear a popping sound and it is coming from the connections beside the battery. There is NO arcing.

Popping sound is like " click-click" then a pause for 5 seconds and repeats. This happens with shore power or without. I can disconnect the negative wire to the battery and the sound continues. I disconnect the postive and the sounds stops. When only on battery power, the "click-click" makes the lights blink.

Everything inside the camper works OK , except the slideout will not operate (with / or without shore power )

Checked all fuses. OK

Advise !!!!


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

It sounds like your 12 volt auto reset thermal breaker is bad. Here are a few posts that dealt with the auto reset thermal breaker. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...&hl=thermal. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...&hl=thermal . James


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## prevish gang (Mar 19, 2006)

larry said:


> Today I moved my slideout partial out to retreive some items above the storage space. Moved the slideout back in. Everything is OK. Shore power was connected the entire day. Tonight we hear a popping sound and it is coming from the connections beside the battery. There is NO arcing.
> 
> Popping sound is like " click-click" then a pause for 5 seconds and repeats. This happens with shore power or without. I can disconnect the negative wire to the battery and the sound continues. I disconnect the postive and the sounds stops. When only on battery power, the "click-click" makes the lights blink.
> 
> ...


We had the same issues. Had to replace the relay that are beside the battery. Part cost about $5. Make sure you get the one for 30 amps. Hubby forgot and got 30 amp for us, but we needed 50 amp with the bigger trailer.

Darlene


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

larry said:


> Today I moved my slideout partial out to retreive some items above the storage space. Moved the slideout back in. Everything is OK. Shore power was connected the entire day. Tonight we hear a popping sound and it is coming from the connections beside the battery. There is NO arcing.
> 
> Popping sound is like " click-click" then a pause for 5 seconds and repeats. This happens with shore power or without. I can disconnect the negative wire to the battery and the sound continues. I disconnect the postive and the sounds stops. When only on battery power, the "click-click" makes the lights blink.
> 
> ...


With our trailer the slide out will not work without the battery connected - Just curious - is your battery have a full charge?


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

prevish gang said:


> Today I moved my slideout partial out to retreive some items above the storage space. Moved the slideout back in. Everything is OK. Shore power was connected the entire day. Tonight we hear a popping sound and it is coming from the connections beside the battery. There is NO arcing.
> 
> Popping sound is like " click-click" then a pause for 5 seconds and repeats. This happens with shore power or without. I can disconnect the negative wire to the battery and the sound continues. I disconnect the postive and the sounds stops. When only on battery power, the "click-click" makes the lights blink.
> 
> ...


We had the same issues. Had to replace the relay that are beside the battery. Part cost about $5. Make sure you get the one for 30 amps. Hubby forgot and got 30 amp for us, but we needed 50 amp with the bigger trailer.

Darlene
[/quote]

What does this relay do?


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

Not a relay they are self resetting fuse http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/cat...8672&page=1 Try this link


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## jozway (Jan 28, 2008)

GarethsDad said:


> It sounds like your 12 volt auto reset thermal breaker is bad. Here are a few posts that dealt with the auto reset thermal breaker. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...&hl=thermal. http://www.outbackers.com/forums/index.php...&hl=thermal . James


What he said!!!


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

prevish gang said:


> Today I moved my slideout partial out to retreive some items above the storage space. Moved the slideout back in. Everything is OK. Shore power was connected the entire day. Tonight we hear a popping sound and it is coming from the connections beside the battery. There is NO arcing.
> 
> Popping sound is like " click-click" then a pause for 5 seconds and repeats. This happens with shore power or without. I can disconnect the negative wire to the battery and the sound continues. I disconnect the postive and the sounds stops. When only on battery power, the "click-click" makes the lights blink.
> 
> ...


We had the same issues. Had to replace the relay that are beside the battery. Part cost about $5. Make sure you get the one for 30 amps. Hubby forgot and got 30 amp for us, but we needed 50 amp with the bigger trailer.

Darlene
[/quote]

There are two connections attached to the trailer frame with red covers. Which one should be replaced. ( battery is fully charged )


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

larry said:


> Today I moved my slideout partial out to retreive some items above the storage space. Moved the slideout back in. Everything is OK. Shore power was connected the entire day. Tonight we hear a popping sound and it is coming from the connections beside the battery. There is NO arcing.
> 
> Popping sound is like " click-click" then a pause for 5 seconds and repeats. This happens with shore power or without. I can disconnect the negative wire to the battery and the sound continues. I disconnect the postive and the sounds stops. When only on battery power, the "click-click" makes the lights blink.
> 
> ...


We had the same issues. Had to replace the relay that are beside the battery. Part cost about $5. Make sure you get the one for 30 amps. Hubby forgot and got 30 amp for us, but we needed 50 amp with the bigger trailer.

Darlene
[/quote]

There are two connections attached to the trailer frame with red covers. Which one should be replaced. ( battery is fully charged )
[/quote]
If you have a multimeter set it for volts DC, with the black probe on the frame or - on the battery test each side of the breakers with the red probe. James


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

The one that runs just the slideout. Now if its clicking every few seconds there could be a short in the slideout motor and the breaker is resetting and then tripping again. I think the lights dimming tells me there is a short in the slideout wiring or the motor trying to run after its closed.

John


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

johnp2000 said:


> The one that runs just the slideout. Now if its clicking every few seconds there could be a short in the slideout motor and the breaker is resetting and then tripping again. I think the lights dimming tells me there is a short in the slideout wiring or the motor trying to run after its closed.
> 
> John


Should I disconnect the battery tonight until I can make test tomorrow.??????


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

larry said:


> The one that runs just the slideout. Now if its clicking every few seconds there could be a short in the slideout motor and the breaker is resetting and then tripping again. I think the lights dimming tells me there is a short in the slideout wiring or the motor trying to run after its closed.
> 
> John


Should I disconnect the battery tonight until I can make test tomorrow.??????
[/quote]

YES
I would
John


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

johnp2000 said:


> The one that runs just the slideout. Now if its clicking every few seconds there could be a short in the slideout motor and the breaker is resetting and then tripping again. I think the lights dimming tells me there is a short in the slideout wiring or the motor trying to run after its closed.
> 
> John


Should I disconnect the battery tonight until I can make test tomorrow.??????
[/quote]

YES
I would
John
[/quote]

Thanks everyone. I will give feedback tomorrow.


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

larry said:


> The one that runs just the slideout. Now if its clicking every few seconds there could be a short in the slideout motor and the breaker is resetting and then tripping again. I think the lights dimming tells me there is a short in the slideout wiring or the motor trying to run after its closed.
> 
> John


Should I disconnect the battery tonight until I can make test tomorrow.??????
[/quote]

YES
I would
John
[/quote]

Thanks everyone. I will give feedback tomorrow.
[/quote]

I just used a multimeter. On the breaker that is directly connected to the positive wire from the battery, both post read 11.5. On the next breaker the top post reads 11.5 but the bottom reads nothing. What does this mean ????

I noticed that while reading 11.5, it would drop to 7.5 during the " click-click" .


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

IF you are reading 11 on one side and zero on the other then its tripped now when you are reading the 7 volts during the "click" you should be reading that breifly on both terminals then 0 on the load side. That would lead me to believe your slide is trying to run after its closed or when it was closing it pinched the wires. Also everytime it clicks your drawing the battery down which explains why you are reading only 11 volts.

John


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Just a thought but if you can see the wiring for the slide out motor check to see if they are pinched under the motor and connected tight. Mine had wires smashed between the motor and the floor but mine smoked the wires and the butt connectors were junk. Its fixed now. Dont know if that will help but its worth a look.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

johnp2000 said:


> IF you are reading 11 on one side and zero on the other then its tripped now when you are reading the 7 volts during the "click" you should be reading that breifly on both terminals then 0 on the load side. That would lead me to believe your slide is trying to run after its closed or when it was closing it pinched the wires. Also everytime it clicks your drawing the battery down which explains why you are reading only 11 volts.
> 
> John


I think the slide control switch is stuck. I would disconnect the battery until the reason for the high draw is located.


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

Any word from Larry?

Find the problem yet?

John


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

johnp2000 said:


> Any word from Larry?
> 
> Find the problem yet?
> 
> John


Still searching for the problem , but deer hunting is getting in the way. Thanks John.


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## Rollrs45 (May 7, 2007)

I wish I had your problem. I still pull my slide out by hand.









One day we'll have the new 5th wheel!

Mike


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## Sayonara (Jul 23, 2007)

Rollrs45 said:


> I wish I had your problem. I still pull my slide out by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Slide out by hand? I actually have no idea how that would be done. I should probably learn though.


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

larry said:


> Any word from Larry?
> 
> Find the problem yet?
> 
> John


Still searching for the problem , but deer hunting is getting in the way. Thanks John.
[/quote]

OK. Yesterday I replaced the 50 amp and 30 amp breakers at the battery. This did not solve the problem. Next I removed the slideout switch from the panel inside the Outback. I've tried to disconnect the wiring harness from the switch but it is stuck. ( I think it can be unplugged ).

I believe the slideout switch is the cause of the clicking. On the "out " part of the switch there is a firm feel when I push it, but the " In " side of the switch feels soft (like it's not making contact)

Should I pry off the switch from the wiring harness ???? It might be cooked.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The wires should pull off the back but they could have used a switch with flying leads. Pull the slack in the wiring from the wall and look for wire nuts. If there are no wire nuts then the connectors must pull off the back of the switch.

The wires can fall back into the wall and on some models that will make them very hard to get to so before you disconnect anything tie a string around the wires to prevent them from falling.

A photo of the switch would be great if you can post it.


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## Rollrs45 (May 7, 2007)

Sayonara said:


> I wish I had your problem. I still pull my slide out by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Slide out by hand? I actually have no idea how that would be done. I should probably learn though.
[/quote]

Grip with two hands.... make sure a window is open and pull like hell.

When all you have is a bed slide out the back, that's how it gets done.

Mike


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

The fact that the "in"side of the switch feels soft could mean the switch came apart inside and the contacts are still stuck together. If there is only three wires on the switch "Its been a few years since I pulled one apart" switch the two end wires leaving the center alone and re connect the battery if the slide starts to move on its own then replace the switch. In a bind you could alternate the wires to open and close the slide.

John


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> The wires should pull off the back but they could have used a switch with flying leads. Pull the slack in the wiring from the wall and look for wire nuts. If there are no wire nuts then the connectors must pull off the back of the switch.
> 
> The wires can fall back into the wall and on some models that will make them very hard to get to so before you disconnect anything tie a string around the wires to prevent them from falling.
> 
> A photo of the switch would be great if you can post it.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

larry said:


> The wires should pull off the back but they could have used a switch with flying leads. Pull the slack in the wiring from the wall and look for wire nuts. If there are no wire nuts then the connectors must pull off the back of the switch.
> 
> The wires can fall back into the wall and on some models that will make them very hard to get to so before you disconnect anything tie a string around the wires to prevent them from falling.
> 
> A photo of the switch would be great if you can post it.











[/quote]

A couple of questions - you said the slide won't go out when you push the switch - but - do you hear the motor running? or is it just popping?

Looking at the picture - it looks like you can disconnect the switch from the wiring where the wires go into the black plastic connector?


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

Ok unplug the 4 wire connector and see if you can plug it back in with the switch rotated 180 degrees reconnect the battery and if the slide try to go out as soon as you connect the battery the switch is bad.

John


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

johnp2000 said:


> Ok unplug the 4 wire connector and see if you can plug it back in with the switch rotated 180 degrees reconnect the battery and if the slide try to go out as soon as you connect the battery the switch is bad.
> 
> John


I would bet the connector is keyed so it will not go in the other way but I would like to see a picture of the back of the switch. Also I expect the wires to have connectors (wire nuts) inside the wall.

Larry - How much more slack is there in the wall?


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> Ok unplug the 4 wire connector and see if you can plug it back in with the switch rotated 180 degrees reconnect the battery and if the slide try to go out as soon as you connect the battery the switch is bad.
> 
> John


I would bet the connector is keyed so it will not go in the other way but I would like to see a picture of the back of the switch. Also I expect the wires to have connectors (wire nuts) inside the wall.

Larry - How much more slack is there in the wall?
[/quote]

The motor is making no sound when I push the switch. The clicking is coming from the new 30 and 50 amp breakers at the battery. I cannot pull the switch off. It looks like as if there is some black plastic melted to the switch from the wiring harness. It is hard to see from the picture. There are no wire nuts inside the cabinet wall.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

If you can not disconnect the switch then I would then disconnect the wires at the motor. The popping indicates a short and over load condition to the motor.


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> If you can not disconnect the switch then I would then disconnect the wires at the motor. The popping indicates a short and over load condition to the motor.


There are only 2 wires at the motor (that I can see) and 5 wires at the switch.


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

An RV company will buy one switch for all of the models it makes.(cheaper to buy bulk) James


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> If you can not disconnect the switch then I would then disconnect the wires at the motor. The popping indicates a short and over load condition to the motor.


What if ?? I cut all 5 wires, order a new wired harness, slice to the present 5 wires, and purchase a new (square 5 pin in-line switch). I found the switch @ rvpartscountry.com for $12.86 (part # 553603). I cannot find the 5 wire harness ???


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

larry said:


> If you can not disconnect the switch then I would then disconnect the wires at the motor. The popping indicates a short and over load condition to the motor.


What if ?? I cut all 5 wires, order a new wired harness, slice to the present 5 wires, and purchase a new (square 5 pin in-line switch). I found the switch @ rvpartscountry.com for $12.86 (part # 553603). I cannot find the 5 wire harness ???
[/quote]
Did you ask (rvpartscountry) if they could get you a harness? Tell them that your switch and harness are melted together. I found a 5 pin switch on eBay. You could ask them if they have a harness. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-Slide-Ro...sspagenameZWDVW .James


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

larry said:


> Ok unplug the 4 wire connector and see if you can plug it back in with the switch rotated 180 degrees reconnect the battery and if the slide try to go out as soon as you connect the battery the switch is bad.
> 
> John


I would bet the connector is keyed so it will not go in the other way but I would like to see a picture of the back of the switch. Also I expect the wires to have connectors (wire nuts) inside the wall.

Larry - How much more slack is there in the wall?
[/quote]

The motor is making no sound when I push the switch. The clicking is coming from the new 30 and 50 amp breakers at the battery. I cannot pull the switch off. It looks like as if there is some black plastic melted to the switch from the wiring harness. It is hard to see from the picture. There are no wire nuts inside the cabinet wall.
[/quote]

I would disconnect at the battery - negative side - to open the circuit, replace the switch, and then reconnect. Be carefull!!


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

GarethsDad said:


> If you can not disconnect the switch then I would then disconnect the wires at the motor. The popping indicates a short and over load condition to the motor.


What if ?? I cut all 5 wires, order a new wired harness, slice to the present 5 wires, and purchase a new (square 5 pin in-line switch). I found the switch @ rvpartscountry.com for $12.86 (part # 553603). I cannot find the 5 wire harness ???
[/quote]
Did you ask (rvpartscountry) if they could get you a harness? Tell them that your switch and harness are melted together. I found a 5 pin switch on eBay. You could ask them if they have a harness. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/RV-Slide-Ro...sspagenameZWDVW .James
[/quote]


I finally pulled the switch off the harness, as you can see two connectors on the harness are melted. Need to replace both switch and harness. I found the wire nuts inside my cabnet for rewiring. Main question: what caused this short ??? I was connected to shore power when last used the slide (extension cord from my house - 100 ft). The photo shows melting on the " IN " position of the switch. Should a breaker have tripped ??????


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

The breaker was what you replaced first on the frame it trips then resets that was the clicking noise. The reason the wires melted to the switch is they use junk switches that can't handle the load being placed on them when the motor is running.

John


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Do all the outbacks use the same slide out system by Lippert?


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

The most likely cause for the burnt wire was poor contact in the switch (high resistance) which caused high current flow which arced and melted the switch.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

rdvholtwood said:


> Do all the outbacks use the same slide out system by Lippert?


They are not all the same as there are different size slides and motors but the concept is basically the same.


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

The outbacks use one stlye and the Sydney's with the bigger slides have a heavier duty slide but I believe they are both made by Lippert.

John


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

CamperAndy said:


> The most likely cause for the burnt wire was poor contact in the switch (high resistance) which caused high current flow which arced and melted the switch.


AKA cheap switch

John


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

johnp2000 said:


> The outbacks use one stlye and the Sydney's with the bigger slides have a heavier duty slide but I believe they are both made by Lippert.
> 
> John


Thanks John - I thought this _may_ help to get an idea of the wiring. I tend to *agree* though that it is the switch and somehow it was overloaded and burnt out...


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## Rip (Jul 13, 2006)

try here http://www.lippertcomponents.com/LIP/0024.pdf


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## campingwiththe6pac (Sep 22, 2004)

I want to chime in.

I have been a member for years, but I mostly read to see what is happening and do not comment much as time is usually only enough to cruse the posts. 
My 28RSS is parked on some property and used as a destination now. I recently towed it in to the shop to change out the black tank valve. I mentioned to them that when I disconnected the battery recently there was some arcing under the front end. When I picked up the rig they said the relay was shot&#8230;basically falling apart. So they put a new one on - no charge. I took the trailer home and plugged it in and , planning on doing a though cleaning inside and out before taking it back to our property up north. When I plugged it in, I instantly heard the clicking. I called the shop and they informed me that if it is kicking in and out I must have a wiring issue and that could be why the first one went bad. I looked at it for a bit and say that the positive and negative wires were very close to each other. Not touching, but bare wire was very close to a direct sort. I disconnect everything and readjusted the wires so that they would be spaced apart. When I reconnected the battery and the shore power the clicking was gone. Cool I thought&#8230;problem solved. A few days later I hooked up for the trip north to leave the trailer for the winter and when I pulled the shore power I had clicking again. I do not recall what I did, but I managed to get it to stop. Once up north I placed the rig and hooked it up and there was not any clicking. It now sits un-plugged and no battery for the winter. I do not know what to expect next spring when I open up the place. I do wished I had more time this fall that I could have taken it back and them go find the issue. That is something I may need to do in the spring. 
Another item of interest, On Crashedtoys.com until 11/25 in the Stillwater section 3rd item down is a 03 outback with frontend fire damage. It almost looks like the relay failed and caused the fire. They have pictures that show the fire was in that area. Now that scares me. In my handle, the 6pac refers to the number of children&#8230;but now numbering 7 and designed in fire hazard is freaking me out. You can bet this will be fully repaired before anyone spends the night in this next summer. So please be sure to post your final outcome. Also if anyone else has had this issue please add your experience here .


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Larry, just curious as to how you are making out with this problem? Here is lippert's phone number in case you would like to contact them - 1-866-524-7821


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

rdvholtwood said:


> Larry, just curious as to how you are making out with this problem? Here is lippert's phone number in case you would like to contact them - 1-866-524-7821


Sunday, after I had removed the switch from the wiring harness, I reconnected the battery to see if the clicking stopped. NO. Now the black wire on the wiring harness which is the positive from the battery was very hot and the clicking continued but at a different level. This was not the case when the switch was connected. I checked the wires at the slide-out motor under the camper and those wires were not hot.

Next, I pressed on the wiring harness with pliers to see if some of the wires were possilbly touching (since the harness connection was charred on one side ) . The clicking stopped and the heat on the black wire cooled down.

I concluded from this that the switch shorted out , burned the wiring harness , and the 30 amp breaker was working.

I finally found the part # for the 5-pin straight line wiring harness and slide out switch from rvpartscountry.com . I will order both tomorrow.

After I have received these items I repaired, I will follow up with everyone.

I know this issue has been a concern to many members and I hope my experience will be helpful for others. There has been a great deal of help from one special Outback member.


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## larry (Oct 19, 2004)

larry said:


> Larry, just curious as to how you are making out with this problem? Here is lippert's phone number in case you would like to contact them - 1-866-524-7821


Sunday, after I had removed the switch from the wiring harness, I reconnected the battery to see if the clicking stopped. NO. Now the black wire on the wiring harness which is the positive from the battery was very hot and the clicking continued but at a different level. This was not the case when the switch was connected. I checked the wires at the slide-out motor under the camper and those wires were not hot.

Next, I pressed on the wiring harness with pliers to see if some of the wires were possilbly touching (since the harness connection was charred on one side ) . The clicking stopped and the heat on the black wire cooled down.

I concluded from this that the switch shorted out , burned the wiring harness , and the 30 amp breaker was working.

I finally found the part # for the 5-pin straight line wiring harness and slide out switch from rvpartscountry.com . I will order both tomorrow.

After I have received these items I repaired, I will follow up with everyone.

I know this issue has been a concern to many members and I hope my experience will be helpful for others. There has been a great deal of help from one special Outback member.
[/quote]

Follow-up to my slideout problem. I ordered and received the switch/wiring harness. After installing , slideout not working. I then called Lippert Company, the electric slideout manufacture. They were very helpful. The tech. rep. walked me through checking for a failed motor my straight wiring the slideout motor to the battery and bypassing the switch. The motor had also failed.

Ordered a new motor and gear box assembly from Lippert ($385) and received this morning. The tech. rep. wasn't sure if any damage had been done to the gear box, so ordered both . I installed this afternoon and everything works fine. Removing and reinstalling the assembly was NOT easy. The top bolt holding the motor in place to the actuator (slideout screw shaft) was placed against the camper floor. Lippert help me through that issue also.

Now to the best guess from the Lippert technical people for the main failure cause.

My slideout bottom was leading about 8 inches from the top during "out" operation. They feel the motor pressure for the out-of-adjustment was the probable cause for motor failure and then switch/wiring harness burn out. Lippert said the proper lead should be only 2 inches.

I never knew I had a problem because the slideout seemed to work OK. The adjustment was off and I did not know. I have now corrected the adjustment, with the bottom and top meeting at the same time at closure.

Everyone should check their adjustment. I hope my experience has benefited everyone.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

larry said:


> Larry, just curious as to how you are making out with this problem? Here is lippert's phone number in case you would like to contact them - 1-866-524-7821


Sunday, after I had removed the switch from the wiring harness, I reconnected the battery to see if the clicking stopped. NO. Now the black wire on the wiring harness which is the positive from the battery was very hot and the clicking continued but at a different level. This was not the case when the switch was connected. I checked the wires at the slide-out motor under the camper and those wires were not hot.

Next, I pressed on the wiring harness with pliers to see if some of the wires were possibly touching (since the harness connection was charred on one side ) . The clicking stopped and the heat on the black wire cooled down.

I concluded from this that the switch shorted out , burned the wiring harness , and the 30 amp breaker was working.

I finally found the part # for the 5-pin straight line wiring harness and slide out switch from rvpartscountry.com . I will order both tomorrow.

After I have received these items I repaired, I will follow up with everyone.

I know this issue has been a concern to many members and I hope my experience will be helpful for others. There has been a great deal of help from one special Outback member.
[/quote]

Follow-up to my slideout problem. I ordered and received the switch/wiring harness. After installing , slideout not working. I then called Lippert Company, the electric slideout manufacture. They were very helpful. The tech. rep. walked me through checking for a failed motor my straight wiring the slideout motor to the battery and bypassing the switch. The motor had also failed.

Ordered a new motor and gear box assembly from Lippert ($385) and received this morning. The tech. rep. wasn't sure if any damage had been done to the gear box, so ordered both . I installed this afternoon and everything works fine. Removing and reinstalling the assembly was NOT easy. The top bolt holding the motor in place to the actuator (slideout screw shaft) was placed against the camper floor. Lippert help me through that issue also.

Now to the best guess from the Lippert technical people for the main failure cause.

My slideout bottom was leading about 8 inches from the top during "out" operation. They feel the motor pressure for the out-of-adjustment was the probable cause for motor failure and then switch/wiring harness burn out. Lippert said the proper lead should be only 2 inches.

I never knew I had a problem because the slideout seemed to work OK. The adjustment was off and I did not know. I have now corrected the adjustment, with the bottom and top meeting at the same time at closure.

Everyone should check their adjustment. I hope my experience has benefited everyone.
[/quote]

Larry great news!! I am so glad you found the problem and lippert was able to help you. With a new TT, I will be checking my slide and paying attention to its travel. It took awhile, but, at least now and it's fixed... Thanks so much for sharing this information with us!!


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