# How Do You Level Your Trailer



## NDKoze (Jan 5, 2011)

How do you level your trailer?

I did a search and found several older threads where it seems that most people use 2X6/2X8 or Plastic Leveling Blocks.

But I have a few other questions that I did not see discussed:


Do you have to put the boards under both tires? I did a Bing search and found the following link where the guy from Pete's RV only drives one wheel up on the ramp:
How to Level your Camper - Pete's RV
Do the boards slide at all when you back up on them? Or do you stake them into the ground somehow?
I am a visual learner, so pictures of your setups would be very helpful









Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.


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## 26rester (Dec 11, 2012)

Well we level our unit with the plastic leveling blocks and the 2x8 cut wood. We have not had an issue with this way of leveling.


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## muddy tires (Jun 22, 2007)

Level side to side first by driving the low side onto boards or leveling blocks. Both work equally well. The number required depends on the slope of the ground. A board/block under only one wheel will raise about half as high as doing both wheels. I have both boards and blocks. The blocks are a bit easier to keep clean but the boards are much easier on the pocketbook. Sometimes the boards will move a little but nothing too serious. You get most movement when you are stacking several high. In that case you have to build layers into a pyramid shape for the wheels to climb. Just have your spotter watch them but stand clear.

Then level front to back by using the tongue jack.

When all is level, deploy the stabilizers.


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## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

When I was a noobie I used boards, but they were slip & sliders which eventually became firewood.

I now own two sets of the interlocking plastic blocks - Lego's for adults!

As mentioned earlier, I level side-to-side first. I've gotten so good at it over the past seven years that just by eyeballing it I know how many of those leveler blocks I need. I'm sure most others learn this trait with experience as well.

Depending upon the campsite, I either back-up or pull onto the blocks. My wife lets me know when I'm perfectly on them. I use the same number of blocks for both wheels, and when placing them I make sure they touch the tires before I drive up on them.

I have done this without my wife's assistance since I have a wireless video camera and screen which I can use as a set of eyes to let me know when I'm up on the blocks perfectly.

Once the side-to-side is perfecto mundo (a carpenter's level is my tool of choice for this), I unhitch the trailer, then use the electric tongue jack to level the trailer front-to-back (either up or down - depending on the campsite terrain). I only find a perfectly level campsite about 20% of the time, so those leveler blocks are well used.

Only after that's done do I put down my stabilizers, as one should NEVER use stabilizers to level a trailer (did you see the word NEVER in all caps?).

When I get ready to leave, we do the whole process backwards. The last thing I do is drive off the blocks, the wife picks the up and then stows them.


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## bbwb (Apr 4, 2008)

I use the Mega Levelers...they work great! With these units, I do not need to carry a lumber yard along to level up. The only downside if there is one is that I have to have a family member look at the bubble levels to tell me when I have it right.
Check out this forum discussion:
http://forums.goodsamclub.com/Index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23480053.cfm
bbwb


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## NDKoze (Jan 5, 2011)

I think I understand pretty well what order to do things (side-to-side, front-back, stabilize), and I definitely know not to level with the stabilizer jacks. Many years with the pop-up and pop-up forums taught me that. But I always used a BAL Leveler and nerve worried about blocks and boards. But those are only for lighter single axle trailers.

It's just the side-to-side that I am mainly concerned about.

It seems like it would be hard to get even on those plastic levelers without going over the top of the pyramid and back down. Maybe I am overthinking this too. Do you have two blocks on the top of the pyramid or one typically?


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Note...if you have a trailer with a LARGE a slideout or two slideouts (like our 301BQ) then you have to learn how to "level" the trailer a bit lower on the door side prior to removing the trailer from the TV. Because the slideout is so heavy and it goes waaaaaaay out, it will tip the trailer in that direction. We've done this enough now so we know the perfect "unlevel" position to be in, so we're level post slideout.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Note...if you have a trailer with a LARGE a slideout or two slideouts (like our 301BQ) then you have to learn how to "level" the trailer a bit lower on the door side prior to removing the trailer from the TV. Because the slideout is so heavy and it goes waaaaaaay out, it will tip the trailer in that direction. We've done this enough now so we know the perfect "unlevel" position to be in, so we're level post slideout.


x2 Even though we have opposing slides (one on each side), the drivers side is longer and Like Oregon Camper, I know about how much "off level" I should be with the slides in to be level with the slides out.

My leveling ramps are 2 2x12's and a 1x12. 1x12 is the shortest, 2x12 are slightly different lengths. Then each 2x12 has short lag screws in the corners and the shorter one has through holes for the lag screw heads to lock into. 1x12 just has the holes. That way the boards will stack and not slide around on each other. Stack as needed and drive up. Much quicker and easier than the "building blocks". Boards are sized so the shortest (1x12) is long enough to go under both tires on one side.

And BTW the heads of the hex bolts are located such that lynx levelers will drop on top and the bolts will hold them in place if I do need any extra height


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## Snow (Sep 27, 2011)

Like others I use a combination of wood and lynx blocks... I have made two boards 2x8 (each about 6ft long) with a raised block at one end... I can use just the board(s) or if I have to I can lay down the lynx blocks on top of the board to increase the height.. The Lynx blocks start at the raise block on the board and lay down going forward...

No pictures of them but hopefully this will give you an idea of what I mean.....

* ^_______________ * That would be the block on top of the board, the block acts like a stop for the lynx blocks so they don't slide off or move while backing onto them...


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## raynardo (Jun 8, 2007)

I do create a pyramid when I need to, using my yellow leveler blocks. Since my TV, Brutus, is a 2012 F-250 Powerstroke Diesel 4x4, it has no problem pulling anything. In fact, I've created a seven-block high pyramid for just one wheel when I've had a flat and need to get the adjoining wheel off the ground.

Here's that photo....and I've done this more than once.


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## bbwb (Apr 4, 2008)

NDKoze said:


> I think I understand pretty well what order to do things (side-to-side, front-back, stabilize), and I definitely know not to level with the stabilizer jacks. Many years with the pop-up and pop-up forums taught me that. But I always used a BAL Leveler and nerve worried about blocks and boards. But those are only for lighter single axle trailers.
> 
> It's just the side-to-side that I am mainly concerned about.
> 
> It seems like it would be hard to get even on those plastic levelers without going over the top of the pyramid and back down. Maybe I am overthinking this too. Do you have two blocks on the top of the pyramid or one typically?


No, never had a problem of over driving the tear drop levelers. You would be amazed at how much engine muscle you need to drive up the levelers. I have found these things to be very easy to level out the side to side.

On a side note, I see that you are from the other side of the state...hail the Bison! (went to school there)

bbwb


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## Jewellfamily (Sep 25, 2010)

Like Oregon Camper said, if you have large slides, the leveling will be off a bit if you dont accomodate for the slides going out. I level side to side by driving up on blocks, but "level" without the slides out is just a bit less than 1/4 bubble off. When I run the slides out, it comes right into center...


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## Colorado Camper (Jan 19, 2013)

I use the plastic leveling blocks. So far I havent been so far out of level that I couldnt just stick one or two in front of each wheel and drive up. I haven't had to make a pyramid yet. I used those 3 level yellow plastic ones before and they were ok.

I have some other questions about leveling that are probably going to be more of a personal opinion but curious to see how others do it.

Where do you check for level and what do you use?
I am planning on mounting some levels on the trailer but for now I have been using my iphone placed on both sides of the tongue. There is an app (RV Companion free) that has a level and tells you how many inches you should raise a side to be level. Not sure how accurate it is but it definitely works to find level. I guess the question is does using the tongue work or do I need to test inside? Yes I should have tested this when I leveled off but it just occurred to me.

How far off of level will you leave your trailer and not hassle with it?


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## muddy tires (Jun 22, 2007)

I usually measure on the floor just inside the door. I find this gets my stove level (so the eggs don't slide to one side of the frying pan) and leaves the drain side of the tub slightly low (nothing worse then ending up with a puddle of soapy water at the end of my shower). I then put the nose slightly high so the rain doesn't run around my storage cupboards outside at the front and my bathroom door doesn't swing out if not latched. But in general I have a pretty high tolerance for out-of-level which is directly correlated to the length of stay and time of arrival.


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

I wonder if I'm the only one here that isn't persnickety about side to side level. As long as I'm "within the bubble" I haven't found it detrimental to camp a little off. Most of my friends know I'm a little off.







I understand that the refer needs level but I have not had a problem in the 15+ years of camping. The only problem is an occasional complaint from the DW about the bathroom door opening or closing if not latched. Front to back is always easy and usually I raise the front just a might to help water shed from the rear slide.

I usually use the bullseye bubble level placed just inside the door, on the floor. I have a carpenter's level that is best but when I need it is always inside the trailer way up on the bed. I try not to get in and out of the trailer while it's only supported by the tongue jack . I too have been thinking about installing a couple of levels on the TT and await some advice.


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