# Winterizing In The Pnw



## QuantumRiff (May 31, 2015)

I just moved to Salem OR from Wisconsin. In the past with our 2015 312bh, every Nov, I would pull the battery into my basement, bypass the water heater, and run RV anti-freeze through all the lines, etc. Out there, our winters would regularly hit 30 below. (I also have a large RV cover)

Now, I live in a place where if there is an inch of snow, they cancel school for the day. Is just draining the lines (and water heater) sufficient for winterizing? or blowing them out with a small compressor? Since its so wet here, do I need to look into using a chemical solution to get rid of 'dampness' in the RV over the winter to prevent mold, etc?

I also anticipate using the RV a few times in early spring, so not having to go to the same level to winterize would be nice.

thanks!


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Welcome to Oregon... 

Your winterization steps will a *LOT *easier. You will need a few things to make this work. First, if you have the ability to run power to the RV, then leave it plugged in over the winter months, so the converter keeps battery(s) charged. Normally the winter here won't be cold enough to force you to remove batteries....some folks do....we don't. Now, if I see the forecast for an extreme cold snap...say in teens for >3-4 days, then I will remove batteries. Big PITA, as we have 3 Trojan T-1275 (heavy)

Now, for the last 10 years, I have only blown out our water lines. Here is the link to Amazon for the plug I use that connect to water line. Set your compressor to 50 PSI. This is 2 man job...as one person needs to hold the air line on the valve, while other person opens all water lines. Don't forget to drain your low point valves as well.

Yes...drain hot water tank. Put a BIG note on your hot water switch, so you remember to fill the tank, prior to using it next time.

You will need a gallon of RV antifreeze to pour into the sinks/shower to fill p-traps. I also flush toilet, so no water is in the bowl, and then pour antifreeze into the bowl...about 1/2 inch

Moisture...yep, bigger problem in PNW. Get 2 of these containers (link to Amazon) and 2 bottles of the dri-z-air crystals (link to Amazon). Then just check on them 1x per month and empty water and refill with crystals as needed. You will be SHOCKED at how much moisture they remove from the RV.

...don't ya just LOVE Amazon.com


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## QuantumRiff (May 31, 2015)

Thanks for the info.. Pouring RV antifreeze down a few drains is MUCH nicer than having to pump it throughout the plumbing, and bypass the water heater, etc!


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

I was born and raised in Salem. Go Saxons!. In the winter of 1971 or 1972, we had a huge ice storm. There was a half inch plus of ice on all of the tree limbs and power lines. People were getting killed from falling chunks of ice. I remember icicles hanging from our roof and touching the ground which was about twelve feet. I'm not sure if it was the same storm but I also remember going to the now closed West Salem Elementary School in the morning and by noon the buses couldn't make it over the bridge to take us home. The snow was up to a 2nd graders crotch in that amount of time. I guess the moral is that it isn't usually too bad in Salem during the winter but that isn't always the case.

Now I live just North of Seattle.

It might be overkill but I still put antifreeze in the lines and drains. Two gallons will do my 250RS with the water heater bypassed. I have a friend up here that does the water line blowout and paid the price for not getting it right. One July a couple years ago, while we were camping together, I asked him why there was water trickling out the side of his trailer. Apparently he hadn't got all the water out of the valve on the back of the toilet and the valve split when it froze. He had to drive to the next town and find a cap to seal off the water line and go without a toilet in the trailer for the remainder of the trip.

I leave my batteries on the trailer and I don't pay for electricity at my storage lot because of the insane price they charge for it. Every couple months I go to the lot and plug the trailer in just before the gates lock for the night. The next morning I go in and unplug just after the gates open. They have never tried to charge me for that. The batteries have never had a problem.

Another thing you should do is close all the windows and vents and use damprid or another dehumidifier. In the Northwest it doesn't freeze all winter so the humidity level is higher that somewhere that it is below freezing all the time. I usually have to go refill my damprid once during the winter. With so much humidity you have a really good change at having mold or mildew problems. Annual rainfall is about 15% more in Salem than it is up here so use some dehumidifier. It's cheap insurance. I keep three of these in the trailer during the winter. https://www.amazon.com/DampRid-FG90-Moisture-Absorber-Easy-Fill/dp/B002C4UN4U/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1508431792&sr=8-15&keywords=damprid


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## Stumpy75 (Feb 26, 2014)

For moisture control, I use three of these.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/DampRid-64-oz-Fragrance-Free-High-Capacity-Moisture-Absorber-FG50T/100391308

It has absorbent material below the crystals, so there is no emptying it.

Our winters are colder than the PNW, but the moisture may be close to the same, since I'm in the Great Lakes area...


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## The John (Nov 6, 2015)

I have always drained my lines and thoroughly cleaned both waste tanks on my 2003 21rs, i don't use antifreeze in the water lines (flavored cheap vodka) but I put a little bit in both tanks. I also leave my faucets open as I was told a very long time ago to do this over the winter (and i haven't had any issues, at least yet).

Like others have said the amount of moisture you will see in your trailers dehumidifier(s) is very eye opening.

I also cover my trailer during the winter not for rain protection but mainly for UV and dirt/blowing material protection. I also put covers over the tires to protect them from UV rays but I do this all year when in storage.


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