# Converter Upgrade



## mj1angier (Jul 15, 2016)

We had our 2017 250urs out for our first "real" camping trip last week for 4 nights. Before we had only stayed 1 night in it when we picked it up. We found that most everything was good, but by the 2nd night the lights were getting dim. We were hooked to shore power, but with the lights burning full on ( Pete, my handicap cousin does not see well and needs the light), radio running or tv going, the converter was not keeping up with the draw.

That 2nd night, a storm was coming and I wanted to put in the awning and the batteries were to low to do the job. I had my battery jump box with me and used it to boost them enough to get it in. That played heavy on my mine, so a 2 am I was up learning more about RV elect. systems.

My late night research made me come to a few conclusions:

1. RV makers put the smallest/ cheapest converter in them to keep cost low.

2. Said cheap converters will hurt you batteries in the long run.

3. When you stay up 2.5 hrs learning this, your butt will be dragging the next day!

So, first thing I did when I got home was to order this:

http://www.bestconverter.com/PD4655TV-55-Amp-Converter-Upgrade-Section-for-WFCO-8955-or-Parallax-7155-Includes-Remote_p_616.html#.V_WW7CSfJzo

This puts more power into battery, and has an automatic step charge- more to charge, less to maintain. It also has 2 cooling fan and a remote so you can change charge rate if you want. It also does auto desulfation to help with battery life.

I came yesterday. It took me about 45 min to put in, that included putting a battery cut off switch on the battery box up front. Instruction were clear enough and it came down to 9 screws- 2 on the cover panel, 2 that hold converter in place, and 5 for the wires.

Very simple upgrade but worth it I think.


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## Parrothead (Jul 17, 2015)

Nice info, thank you. This looks like it will be in my future as well.


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## Stumpy75 (Feb 26, 2014)

You might also change to all LED lights. Just as much light, but 1/10th the power draw. However, maybe the 2017s already have all LEDs? Not sure...

I know turning on every light I have(all LEDs) does not even bring the converter fan on... And I do mean Every light. I tried it once just to see! lighten


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## mj1angier (Jul 15, 2016)

Yes it came with LEDs in all but the dinette light and I changed that right away.

I am not sure what the big power drain was. Maybe the wife was blasting the radio when I went to bath house, lol.

I just know the convertor could never bring the batteries back up. After the 3rd night I ran home and got my battery charger for the cars and put it on and it work great.

We are headed out next week for 4 more days and I will give an AAR when we get back.


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## mj1angier (Jul 15, 2016)

Just got back from 5 day trip. Convertor worked great . Batteries stayed strong, fans never came on, Well worth the money


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

sounds like a few have found out the major issue with the WFCO converters. they are virtually impossible to get into the bulk or boost charging mode, and end up going into the voltage limit rather than current limit mode and set the charge voltage to 13.6V or so. that means around 10-15 amps MAX even on an almost dead battery. that means DAYS to come close to a decent charge.

The PD and other units are much better and a good drop in replacement. I put a 55A PD drop in replacement in our 295RE along with a PD deck mount 65A unit in the pass through. That way if I'm on the honda 2000, I can use either to charge if needed, and if I have shore power or two hondas running I can stuff 110-120 A into the battery bank (4 GC, 500AH). and they will still be stuffing 60A up to about 90% charge before going out of bulk mode charging. Makes short order of charging.

If you do much dry camping tossing the WFCO is the first thing you should do.


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## GovGeek (Jun 28, 2016)

This is interesting. I have a 2016 Outback 324CG with the stock 75 amp unit. I've also got two gel-mat Optima Yellow-Tops installed. When I turn on a single (all lights are LED) I can hear the PDU fan kick on. While camping at the last spot for a week we were plugged into 30 amp shore power the entire time, but the Vortex 2 fan I have wired into 12v was ramping it's speed up and down on its own. For the most part it ran fine and consistent, but there were moments when the fan pitch would lower. Correlated with that, I could see on the EMS that the voltage from the shore power was dipping to 104v on line1 and 2. Twice during the week the EMS went into low voltage protection and killed power momentarily.


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## 325BH (May 10, 2016)

I have a 2016 325BH with the 75 amp WFCO. I don't dry camp however I had the same concerns. I have always heard the fan kick on with very few things turned on.

Over the winter I swapped out the single marine battery with twin T105s. I also have a Progressive Dynamics 9270 (70 amp) converter sitting on my table ready for installation.

I didn't want to wait for problems before I upgraded the converter.

I hear great things about the PD units.

I'm sure your upgrade was worth it!

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## 325BH (May 10, 2016)

ob277rl said:


> You will not regret installing the PD converter. Good Luck.
> 
> Robert


i just installed it last night. I have been behind my power panel several time in the past and knew it was tight quarters... so I was going to put this off. Then I decided waiting probably wasn't wise since I just bought two new T105s. Anyway, after removing the wire harness straps, everything pulled out of the way nicely.

While I was in there I ran the wire for the pendant and my PI EMS' display. (Until now it was just sitting next to the EMS. Now it is eye-level on the wall above my InCommand DC.) The converter swap was pretty painless. As soon as I turned it on it went right to 14.4 volts, something I never saw with the WFCO. I love it already!

Something interesting I am researching...

My InCommand DC (touch-screen control panel inside the camper) displays voltage among other things. It is close to the power panel and converter. The InCommand BCM is the brain and sits near the batteries. I'm trying to find out if the DC gets its voltage reading directly from a 12 v wire close by, or if it gets told by the BCM. The latter is what I believe and would reflect voltage drop which would be a good thing. Don't know the answer yet. No big deal, just my technical brain running amok!

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## 325BH (May 10, 2016)

ob277rl said:


> As the batteries and the converter are tied together I would believe that the voltage reading you are getting would depend on if you are connected to shore power of not. While on shore power it would reflect the charging/power state of the converter, and on batteries alone it would check just the batteries. Good Luck.
> 
> Robert


I wasn't questioning the voltage reading, I'm just researching where in the system the voltage reading is taken. I know how the batteries are tied to the converter. My point was, due to voltage drop, taking a voltage reading right off of the converter would net one voltage and taking a reading right off of the batteries would net a different voltage, especially under heavy charging conditions.

It's all good! Thanks!

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## GovGeek (Jun 28, 2016)

325BH said:


> ob277rl said:
> 
> 
> > You will not regret installing the PD converter. Good Luck.
> ...


My belief is that the voltage is reported from the BCM off the batteries. The evidence of that is if you've ever gotten a message on the InCommand display about too much power draw while moving a slide or the stabilizer jacks, and we have. The BCM would have to know the available voltage to be able to manage this appropriately. Just a guess still, but I've emailed Jensen Tech support to get updated files for the BCM (was getting water heater disconnects) and they're responsive. I'll bet they'd be happy to answer that.


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## 325BH (May 10, 2016)

GovGeek said:


> 325BH said:
> 
> 
> > ob277rl said:
> ...


That is what I have been thinking. Seeing what is connected to the DC would suggest the same.

Why I like this is the voltage reading on the DC screen will reflect/show any voltage drop. I haven't had a chance to upgrade my conductors so this is something I want to follow.

Thanks!

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