# 27rsds Towed By Escalade



## pk8183 (Jul 15, 2007)

I kinda know the answer, but I am looking for input anyway.

I am looking at a 2006 RSDS to tow behind a 2003 Cadillac Escalade (Standard Length) The Escalade can tow up to 8100lbs, but I do not want to go over 6500 max. The wheelbase is a boit short for the length, but I will only have the TV for another summer or two.

We are not going to be doing any real long trips or any hills (it's Kansas....hills are few are far between)

Mostly it would be from storage to the camp ground (1 1/2 miles), to our house every once in a while (50 miles) and to the caves for winter storage (30 miles)

Most of that driving can be done on smaller two lane roads without having to worry about trucks passing you at 80mph...

Any thoughts or cautions?

thanks in advance!


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Paul Kilgore said:


> I am looking at a 2006 RSDS to tow behind a 2003 Cadillac Escalade (Standard Length) The Escalade can tow up to 8100lbs, but I do not want to go over 6500 max. The wheelbase is a boit short for the length, but I will only have the TV for another summer or two.
> 
> thanks in advance!


My two magic books here at work show that the towing rating is 7400 for 2x4 and 8100 for AWD (not sure which one you have but assuming the AWD)...

Your actual towing numbers are a concern -- Trailer is listed at 6700 pounds (OUTBACK says 5865 but TRUE weight is listed at 6700) and you can pull 6480 (8100 X 80%NHTSA recomendation) = so you are already pulling 220 pounds more then you should..

The wheel base is a little short (116.0) for the the trailer length in my opinion so you wil have to make sure that you have a good SWAY and WD hitch...

Your GVWR is also a concern ..

Your GVWR is 7000 (assuming the AWD) and the curb weight is 5600. That leaves you 1400 pounds to play with... 1400 pounds to load gas, people, hitch, receiver, propane, batteries, supplies, etc

so using the recommend NHTSA 80% towing rule...

1400lbs x 80% NHTSA = 1120lbs - propane and batteries (100) = 1020 - gas and adults (200 + 140 + 120) = 460lbs avail - hitch and hitch weight (600) = (-240)

So even before you load a single thing you are 240 pounds over the GVWR limit for your vehicle and 220 over your towing capacities. If you start adding clothes and food, and supplies that number does nothing but go up...

Technically you could probably make it OK -- it may be white knuckle driving at times -- and probably a strain on your transmission and engine -- but in my opinion -- you are just inside the red zone -- doable but not advised -- your trips are relatively short -- and Kansas is flat -- so thats a few pluses -- but the wear and tear you are taking on your vehicle may not be worth it.. may be time to get that new TV early

so i would give this the "doable but not going to be a relaxing experience" rating...

just my .02


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

I wouldn't be concerned about weight. I know many like 80% of the tow rating, but the manufacturers do test these vehicles at their tow ratings.








Given that you won't be trying for high elevation there is really no need to decrease from the manufacturer's weights.

That being said, and given your location, my concern would be winds and wheelbase. I'm not real happy when I get caught with a crosswind as it can blow me off the road.









I'd get a good WDH with sway control and then upgrade the vehicle before you plan long distance trips!


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Nathan said:


> I wouldn't be concerned about weight. I know many like 80% of the tow rating, but the manufacturers do test these vehicles at their tow ratings.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


When the manufacturers do "their" testing -- ONLY their personnel are there -- they do NOT have to PROVE the results to anyone.

When they do their testing -- the gas tank is less then 1/4 tank full, the truck is light - they don't even put a spare tire on -- and they put one small driver driving (lighter the better). Also they take the engine and transmission limit right up to the breaking point for the engine and the transmission.. back it off a little .. and thats the NUMBER they publish.

This is why the National Highway Traffic Safety Adminsitration says that you should take 80% of what the manufacturers state as "truth"...

Also -- in many states now -- if you have a wreck -- and its NOT your fault -- but the Trooper determines that your TRAILER was overloaded or your TV was over weight -- then the accident is NOW your fault ...

just my .02

The OUTBACK dealer that I did NOT buy from told me that we could tow our 23RS with my wife's Xterra with NO problem... !!!!


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## campingnut18 (Mar 11, 2004)

i hada 2002 chevy tahoe and towed a 27rsds just fine. 
you cant win any race. i had a great hitch set up with great sway bars.
you do have to watch your weight and keep it low.
but we towed to fla even up to high elevations in the moutains.
you can do it if your very careful.

campingnut18


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## pk8183 (Jul 15, 2007)

Thanks for the advice and the caution.

I think we are going to make sure that when we tow it any distance (outside the campground or storage) we are going to make sur everyone but me is in the other car and we put as much weight as we can in the second vehicle. I am going to have the RV dealer deliver the camper to my storage site rather than drive the 250 miles

I imagine we will look for a new TV in the July time frame, assuming the stock market does not take any more of my $$$! I am thinking about getting an older truck and only use it for towing the camper and the boat (not at the same time) and theen buy a run around car since I do a lot of driving for work.

I can not wait to go look at the outback!


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

Ghosty said:


> When the manufacturers do "their" testing -- ONLY their personnel are there -- they do NOT have to PROVE the results to anyone.
> 
> When they do their testing -- the gas tank is less then 1/4 tank full, the truck is light - they don't even put a spare tire on -- and they put one small driver driving (lighter the better). Also they take the engine and transmission limit right up to the breaking point for the engine and the transmission.. back it off a little .. and thats the NUMBER they publish.
> 
> ...


I'll never argue with someone saying you shouldn't push the weights. However, manufacturers carefully state the limits they use to avoid lawsuits. If they say it can do X GVWR, then they have tried it..... trust me....








Sure, they each have their own test procedures and acceptance standards, but they understand the importance of a reputation for durable trucks. I really don't think any of them would intentionally quote a number that the truck wouldn't handle for acceptable life.


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