# Bad Crimps On Electrical Connectors



## Brian (Jan 25, 2004)

All,
I got a chance to check out my Outside Floodlight today, it had been out last trip out last year. I removed the four screws and the cover. Bulb was OK. Went inside and pulled switch covers and removed screws holding switches in place. Then gently pulled the switches out to expose the back side where the fittings were. All of the fittings were improperly crimped! The plastic portion(insulation) of the connectors were crimped but not the metal portion. Needless to say I had wires pull out with little or no effort! Blackness due to sparks arcing were clearly visible. I was able to crimp them all correctly and light works fine. Not really happy about that but at least it's repaired correctly and no harm done. So I hate to think that there may be more out there! If you feel qualified to perform this inspection I'd recommend you do it. Remember to have all power off to camper A/C Power and disconnect the negitive cable on the Battery! Hopefully I'm the only one this happend to!









Thanks Brian


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## shaela21 (Aug 16, 2005)

Thank you. I may have to have a look at that and ensure that there are no problems.


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## dwest369 (Feb 2, 2004)

One more item to add to the Spring Checklist.


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## drobe5150 (Jan 21, 2005)

brian

thanks for the heads up on that one









darrel


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

This issue has come up from time to time, and unfortunately, I think it is probably an industry wide problem, especially if production is high. Pressure is on to move product out the door, and some of the quality control falls by the wayside. I'm not making excuses by any means, just stating that you will probably find the same problems on other brands too.

Another thing to check every spring, is the screw down terminals on your converter. Some of these did come from the factory loose, and folks have experienced arcing, and I think one person had a small fire. But these can also loosen over time from road vibrations. I check mine several times a season just to make sure, and I have tightened them more then once.

Tim


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## Brian (Jan 25, 2004)

Tim,

Can you see the screw down connectors 
by removing the converter cover?
I have never been in there!

Brian


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

I'm not surprised about you finding yet another quality control issue -- whay I AM surprised about is that you sound surprised that you found something ---









Holy Cow -- have you ever look at the spahetti of wires and pipes between your underbelley and the tarmac...

I have never quite fiqured Outback out yet -- they were "that" close in making a great trailer -- all they had to do was actually pay attention to simple detail ...


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## ee4308 (Aug 23, 2005)

Brian,

Thanks for posting the "heads-up" info. Looks like the "Black Tank Guy" fills in at several different stations.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Brian said:


> Tim,
> 
> Can you see the screw down connectors
> by removing the converter cover?
> ...


just remove the cover from the converter and you can see all the screws inside.
On both the A.C. breakers and neutral bar and the D.C. fuses and ground bar.
Kust make sure that all the screws are tight.
I'll second that this should be checked at least every year.


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## Burger (Dec 20, 2005)

Brian said:


> All,
> I got a chance to check out my Outside Floodlight today, it had been out last trip out last year. I removed the four screws and the cover. Bulb was OK. Went inside and pulled switch covers and removed screws holding switches in place. Then gently pulled the switches out to expose the back side where the fittings were. All of the fittings were improperly crimped! The plastic portion(insulation) of the connectors were crimped but not the metal portion. Needless to say I had wires pull out with little or no effort! Blackness due to sparks arcing were clearly visible. I was able to crimp them all correctly and light works fine. Not really happy about that but at least it's repaired correctly and no harm done. So I hate to think that there may be more out there! If you feel qualified to perform this inspection I'd recommend you do it. Remember to have all power off to camper A/C Power and disconnect the negitive cable on the Battery! Hopefully I'm the only one this happend to!
> 
> 
> ...


Funny you should mention that. I was repairing a defective drawer latch in my 25RSS yesterday (the one that is closest to the light switches for the inside, both outside white spotlights and the outside amber light). I pulled the drawer out for it's repair and when I shined the flashlight in the recessed area I saw all the wires going to those four switches. Every one of them had bare wiring exposed and the wiring loop hanger that originally was stuck on with adhesive tape had come loose, allowing the drawer to pull on the wiring each time I opened and closed it. So, I removed the switch covers carefully, removed the screws holding them in, and repaired the exposed wires. I also used some nylon tie straps to hold the wiring loom back in it's proper position. This only takes a minute to check and I recommend everyone check theirs.


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## Brian (Jan 25, 2004)

Ghosty, I'm not Surprised!
I have been tolerant with non 
safety related issues! 
This is the first time I felt vulnerable!
Still love it though!
Brian


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

It's come down to getting the trailers out the door and hoping they won't have a warranty claim.


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## Herbicidal (Aug 29, 2003)

For any wire repairs, I would recommend *soldering* vs. re-crimping those connections. Slip on some correctly sized heat shrink tubing before doing the repair to cover up the connection when you are done. This makes a better electrical connection by far.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Herbicidal said:


> For any wire repairs, I would recommend *soldering* vs. re-crimping those connections.Â Slip on some correctly sized heat shrink tubing before doing the repair to cover up the connection when you are done.Â This makes a better electrical connection by far.Â
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Soldering makes repairs tough and soldering multiple #12 multi strand wires is really not very easy and prone to cold solder joints. Properly done crimp on bayonet connectors is the way to go. Note that the operative word here is "Properly".


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

I agree with Andy especially if they are not exposed to the weather elements. Exposed, soldering and shrink tubing is better

John


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

What is really scary about this, is that it cannot be excused by saying they were trying to get it out the door fast. It took just as long to crimp the wires wrong as it would to crimp them correctly. Obviously, they must have brought someone in off the street, and gave them, for their first job, wire crimping. (the black / grey tank labeling job was already taken by a high school summer temp) I wonder how many other jobs are performed by people inadequetly trained. Scary.


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

What I found in the OB, is that when they crimp 2 wires, they are OK....

Its when there is three or more together, they should be using a bigger size wire nut to handle it.

I just replaced the tailights, and on both sides, there was actually three white wire leads from inside with the one to the tailight. The wire for the tailight was barely even attached.

I think if they use the right tools for the job, they would be OK.

Steve


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

It is unfortunate that this issue continues to rear it's ugly head.







I remember this being the talk of the forum about this time last year. In particular at the converter panel.

I checked all of our wiring I could get to, and everything was fine. Whew! I would strongly recommend that we Outbcakers see this as a needed annual inspection. Even put together correctly, considering the environment these things live in, wires can work loose.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hey at least they used crimp connectors. I have been replacing wire nuts when ever I find them. Wirenuts have their place but not in a TT where they can vibrate loose. When I find them I use the solder method with heat shink as a repair. Another place to look is behind the wall switch for the slider. Mine was a mess with wire strands exposed sticking out of the wire nut. This one worried me because of the power it draws and the possible short in the wall. The other place that bothered me was when I installed the outside storage compartment under the refrige I found where they make all the 12 volt ground connection. Every connection was loose in the terminal block. This terminal block is mounted behind the converter and the only way to get to it is to remove the converter. It will slide right out after you remove 4 screws but please if you do check it disconnect the battery and shore power first. I vote for the solder method as a permeant fix. Kirk


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