# 2000 Dodge 3500 Transmission Problems



## Lmbevard

Just got back from camping about 40 miles away. I'm pulling a 30' 5'er with a 2000 Dodge 3500 with a Cummins, so shouldn't have any problems with power and for the first few trips things went great. Last time out, I noticed that the truck was pulling a little harder than normal and that the temp. gauge was running at the top of the normal range where it had been running normally before. Also when I got home, I had transmission fluid dripping from around the connection to the transmission oil cooler. Check the fluid and it was still full and things ran normally without the camper on it but when I left Sunday for camping, the truck was having trouble shifting into 3rd gear and seemed to be pulling harder than normal. I had taken the truck in last fall and had the fluid and filter changed and the bands adjusted at the dealer, but it seems that it might need it again or worst. Anyone have any experience with Dodge automatics to know if this is a simple fix or if this is going to be something expensive?

Larry


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## Ahumadas

Larry,

Sounds like your torque converter could be failing. High temps are the number one cause of turbo diesel trans failures. Failure occurs when the torque converter lock up starts to slip under heavy loads, the worn clutch lining ends up in the ATF and then plugs the valves and ports. Sounds like the start of something bad whatever it is, most likely needing an overhaul. I'd take it to a deisel shop or transmission specialist. The specialist may recommend installing a bigger lock up clutch, a.ka clutch pack, which handles more torque forces without increasing the line pressure.


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## Tiger02

Larry,

As was already stated, heat is one of the biggest killers of auto trannys. Do you use a Trans temp gauge, or an EGT gauge? They are a big help when towing to keep your temps within the safe range. Factory transmission coolers don't always keep temps where they need to be (under 200). The link below is to a Dodge diesel forum that looks pretty good. I've learned a lot from the dieselstop.com forum for the Ford diesels and hope the Dodge site can help you out with what you need.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php

Vince


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## Lmbevard

Thanks guys, it's about what I thought, even though I had hoped for something better. I bought it below market value, so if I can come up with the money, I will still come out ahead. The engine is good, not problem there. I had already checked on the price of a new tranny, and it was about $1400, so not out ragious. I hope I can get it to hold together for a while. Not planning any long trips with it, so I hope I can keep it going. Will bookmark the weblink so I can get other help.

Larry


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## 2500Ram

Larry do tell me your source for a rebuilt 47re trans for $1400, is that rebuilding yours, or a new rebuilt minus your old core. That's a great price.

Bill.


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## jtwcummins

2500Ram said:


> Larry do tell me your source for a rebuilt 47re trans for $1400, is that rebuilding yours, or a new rebuilt minus your old core.Â That's a great price.
> 
> Bill.
> [snapback]104927[/snapback]​


On the early RAMs, 2nd gen is 94-03, the trans cooler lines used plastic clip to retain them in place. I don't know what year they started using the steel clips from the factory. Many people had the trans lines loosen or pop off while towing. Dealer can get you the steel clip lines and it would be a good idea to get the crossover line from trans to heat exchanger on block under the exhaust with the port for a temp gauge.

There is a TSB on the problem so it would be a good idea to check your lines. Easiest place to check is at tranny cooler. RAMs not used to tow never had the problem, but towing put enough heat load on them to cause the problem.

Secret to keeping the 47re alive is get it serviced reqularly w/ band adj. If you experience any shudder under load after a service, complete flush of fluid, try 1 red bottle of LUBE GUARD, really helps.


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## 2500Ram

jtwcummins said:


> On the early RAMs, 2nd gen is 94-03
> 
> Secret to keeping the 47re alive is get it serviced reqularly w/ band adj. If you experience any shudder under load after a service, complete flush of fluid, try 1 red bottle of LUBE GUARD, really helps.
> [snapback]105127[/snapback]​


2nd Gen rams are 98.5-02, when the 24 valve engine was introduced 3rd gen starts in 03 again new engine. Not nitpicking...

So the shudder your talking about. Can you elaborate more. You say any shudder under load after service? I always get a shudder into 4th gear lockup unless I'm pulling the OB. I'm quite aware of band adjustments but not the red bottle of Lube Guard.

Why is it after every flush and fill on an auto tranny it has problems doesn't matter the make and model it just always seems to happen that way.

Bill.


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## Lmbevard

I saw the price in a performance catalog at work, I'll look it up again. The cheapest I saw it on the internet so far is $1850. A couple of the guys at work thinks it's better to have the tranny rebuilt instead of buying a rebuilt one, that way you know what you've got and can tell if its fixed or not. What is your opinion on this?

Larry


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## 2500Ram

Lmbevard said:



> I saw the price in a performance catalog at work, I'll look it up again. The cheapest I saw it on the internet so far is $1850. A couple of the guys at work thinks it's better to have the tranny rebuilt instead of buying a rebuilt one, that way you know what you've got and can tell if its fixed or not. What is your opinion on this?
> 
> Larry
> [snapback]105144[/snapback]​


Reasonable assumption if it's not trashed, doesn't sound like it if your still driving it. Maybe you only need new clutch packs or a valve body and torque converter but I would definitely look at better than OEM parts. Go to a diesel garage to have it rebuilt, not a dealer.

This is my opinion only no experience with the 47re yet, I'm sure my day is coming.

Bill.


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## 2500Ram

Just ran accros this on DTR's website for the 47re lockup problems.



> According to an article on TDR i found today when i was visiting the site, the use of tin foil can help solve the TC lock/unlock problems. Its on the homepage for tdr but heres what you do....
> 
> _
> I have found the cause of the lock-unlock problem to be a frequency-induced electrical noise into the ground circuit of the battery which causes a fluctuating voltage signal from the TPS to the PCM.
> 
> The Solution: Locate the 10-gauge ground wire that runs from the negative post of the passenger battery to the back of the alternator. This wire is often tan with a black stripe.
> 
> Starting at the back of the alternator loom where the tan/black striped wire heads for the battery, wrap the wire with a piece of tin foil about 4" - 6" in length. Wrap the tin foil with black electrical tape to secure it in place.
> 
> Road test the vehicle. If the problem is corrected, smile.
> 
> Tony Garcin
> Dunrite Converters_
> 
> I tried this out today because i was having the lockup problem sometimes while driving and it really did work. I drove the truck be for i did anything to it and felt it lock up and unlock. I came back got out the foil, tape and a few min later i was back driving again. Now it locks up just fine and doesn't feel like its stumbling like it did before. I just thought i'd pass this info on since there always seems to be a thread about lock up problems on here.
> 
> One thing i did different is there is a wire coming off the battery on the P-side that grounds tothe fender, I covered it, the one that is blk/tan that goes towards the alt, and the portions of uncovered 10 ga wire that come off the battery ground that have connectors on them. I'll try to post a pic of what i did.
> 
> Matt


Bill.

Source here


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## GlenninTexas

Bill,

Thanks for this info. I haven't experienced any lockup problems so far, but this easy "correction" certainly won't hurt to do as a preventative measure.

I'm going to post this on Dodgeforum.com just to share the info.

Thanks again. Glenn


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