# Sanitized Fresh Water Tank And Drained Hot Water Heater



## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

I have searched and searched and can't find an answer to my most simple question...

I am almost finished with sanitizing our fresh water tank since we haven't done it in awhile...
DH pulled the drain plug on the hot water heater since we have never drained it before and thought it would be a good idea.

It may sound dumb, but my question is this:

After replacing the drain plug back into the hot water heater, will the tank automatically fill up either by city water or with a full fresh water tank and the water pump??

We'll be dry camping this weekend and I just want to make sure that we don't fry anything up after turning on the water heater.

Thanks!


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## whodey (Feb 9, 2007)

Yes, both will fill the hot water tank. Run the hot water to fill the tank/lines BEFORE turning on the water heater.

Mike


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

connect to water sourse...open hot water faucet...tank will fill....then turn on heater.

Silly you...you should know by now there are no silly questions here.


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## skippershe (May 22, 2006)

Thanks for your help!

I might have not thought to open a hot water faucet


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

The open faucet will also give the hot water tank full of air a place to go.

Not a bad question at all


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

skippershe said:


> Thanks for your help!
> 
> I might have not thought to open a hot water faucet


You don't have to, but I like to open it just a bit just in case some presure was to build up. Better safe than sorry...


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

If I'm outside the Trailer, I will jsut pull the pressure relief valve on the water heater. That lets the air out too.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

I thought I remember in the manual that you shouldn't use the pressure relief valve that way, as it interferes with the normal by-design air pocket that's supposed to be mainained in the tank. Yes, no, maybe so?

As to the original question - it's important to remember the hot water tank any time you're not going to have water hookups. If you've drained the hot water tank, you'll need to run the pump and get the air out of the lines at the fill station or you'll just waste the first 6 gallons from the freshwater tank.


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

BoaterDan said:


> I thought I remember in the manual that you shouldn't use the pressure relief valve that way, as it interferes with the normal by-design air pocket that's supposed to be mainained in the tank. Yes, no, maybe so?


Anyone have any input, I just filled my tank last weekend this way and am leaving soon an a trip, I guess it might not matter as I filled it this way for the last 3 years and no problems. Gas only no electric for my weekend.


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

I don't think pulling the pressure relief will hurt anything if you did, but I too remember reading something about an air pocket for expansion. However, pressure relief valves get testy after they age and will often fail after they have been opened. It's probably better to just leave it alone.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

California Jim said:


> I don't think pulling the pressure relief will hurt anything if you did, but I too remember reading something about an air pocket for expansion. *However, pressure relief valves get testy after they age and will often fail after they have been opened. It's probably better to just leave it alone*.


I second that. These valves can be temperamental.

Install drain plug, put winterizing valve to normal position, fill fresh tank, turn on pump, open hot water faucet and run water till no more air comes out and you are done.

Both the hot water outlet and the TP safety valve are near but not at the top of the tank and both will leave about a 1/2" to 1" air pocket.


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## GarethsDad (Apr 4, 2007)

If I had a nickle for every T&P valve that I replaced from someone using it to release the air from the water heater in their house. T&P reliefe valves are designed to fail if the temperature exceeds 210 degrees or 150 psi. If you have any particulite sediment in your system and it ends up in the seat of the T&P it will leak, if the brass seat is corroded it will leak. Please open a faucet. James


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

Point taken, never a leak but won't fill it that way anymore.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

2500Ram said:


> Point taken, never a leak but won't fill it that way anymore.


Do you have an outside shower on the same side as the hot water tank? You could simply turn on that valve vs. using the PR on the hot water tank.


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## BoaterDan (Jul 1, 2005)

2500Ram said:


> Point taken, never a leak but won't fill it that way anymore.


Yeah, no kidding. Thanks for that James.

I've used it when draining the tank as it speeds things up. Guess I won't be doing that any more.


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