# Fifth Wheel Hitches



## Bull Elk (Feb 28, 2005)

We are looking into making the move to a fiver over the winter and were curious for input on hitches. My 2500hd has a standard 6'6" box and I do not want to deal with any body work to the back of the cab. I have been researching the Pullrite Superglide, but really thought I should hear the real story from the members of Outbackers.com.
Thanks,
Rich


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## webeopelas (Mar 11, 2006)

I have a dodge Mega Cab with a 6' 3" bed. I put a Reese 16K Slider in. A Pullrite is a wonderful hitch and takes all the wondering out of when to slide. It does it all automatically. If you are willing to be responsible for sliding the hitch, the manuals work fine too and are cheaper. I have heard stories of people on city streets who needed to slide and hated getting out of the truck to do it. Hopefully those situations are few and far between.

I am able to back into a driveway, and turn around on my street without sliding. When I went to Spring Gulch I did slide the hitch just to be sure. The manufacturers have gotten better at designing the front of the 5er to allow for tighter turning on a shortbed. Heartland RV claims an 88 degree turn without sliding, and Keystone Montana has "cutbacks" on the corners to allow sharper turns.

There is also a new concept called the 5th Airborne Sidewinder. This replaces the pin on your trailer. Instead of the trailer pivoting at the hitch, the trailer pivots at the pinbox on the trailer. This moves the pivot point almost 20 inches to the rear, so instead of pivoting only 39 inches behind your cab, it pivots 59 inches behind and you only need 48 inches to clear your cab to a full 90 degree turn. Keystone is putting on as standard equipment on thier everest line. Humpty here on this site has one and loves it.

So, get a slider hitch of some make, make sure the 5er has an extended pin (almost all do nowadays except for the real heavy ones) and be careful/aware of the trailer at all times while turning and you will be fine.


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## rms0726ea (Aug 9, 2006)

Good info webeopolis.....

I have had the Pullrite Superglide for 2 years and it has been great. I am definitely glad I have it - well worth the $ in my opinion. You can find them alot cheaper online. I brought the internet price to the Outback dealer in Oklahoma City and the matched the price. I like not having to get out of the truck when manuevering in any situation - wether a campground, gas station or tight city streets. Check into the under bed mounting kit - that way when you take the hitch out the bed is fully clear of any rails/mounting equipment.

A+ in my book

Rich


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## GlenninTexas (Aug 11, 2004)

I've got the Reese Superglide 16K. Its a manual type of slider. I also got the under bed mounting rails.
If I knew better when I bought mine, I'd have went with the Pullrite auto slider. Not that the Reese is a bad hitch, just have to be cognizant of things more with the manual, especially when backing. 
Regardless of what yuo go with, the best option is the underbed mounting rails.

Regards, Glenn


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## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

Certainly don't go with the lowest end Reese which have only one locking jaw. My pin it already starting to wear after just one season and it isn't a tight fit so I can feel a little bucking sometimes. I think the manual sliders are fine especially since I'm too cheap for the automatics. What is a PullRite after installation $1600 or so, yikes that is certainly an expensive hitch. I said give me that money and put better tires on the trailer.

I have also found out that with any amount of care you never have to use it other then to back in a tight situation. I even got stuck looking for gas in downtown Wilmington DE and it was a real downtown with narrow streets and the like. Pretty much if you have to get out and slide then you shouldn't have been there in the first place.


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## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

My Challenger came with the Non-Air version of the sidewinder from the factory (even though my truck has a full size bed so I don't need it.) It works great and makes a 5th wheel back just like my TT did.

The Sidewinder moves the pivot point back about 12" -it has a wedge that prevents pivot at the hitch head. I definitely think it is worth considering, but I have heard that Frame manufacturers say aftermarket installations will void the frame warranty.


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## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

Short bed trucks and FW and the slider question. Almost as much enthusiasm in both camps as shown in the generator wars......

IMHO a slider is required on a short bend truck, but may not be needed very much depending on where you travel/camp. B4 you make a choice on this important piece of the puzzle do some real hard thinking:
1. Will someone -wife, son, daughter - unfamiliar with the truck/trailer have to drive on a moments notice. This group of operators will not remember to slide until damage happens.
2. Are you comfortable stopping in traffic to get out, activate the slider, then do maneuver... Hoping the slide will actually slide without needing to put down the front legs of the trailer to take weight off the hitch. Read Reese's manual concerning slide operation....
3. Do you ever have forgetful moments -Who honestly doesn't?
4. Will a u-turn on a narrow street be in your future?

If yes to any of these questions please give strong consideration to an Automatic Slider. This is a place where bring "frugal" can cost you a lot of money / time / aggravation. Don't we go camping to get away from life's hustle?

Another issue identified is the Kingpin / hitch wear issue. This is why you need to look at the various methods each manufacturer uses to capture the kingpin -some are better than others over time. Loose kingpin coupling will transmit more start and stop energy to the truck -Thunk and clunk that cannot be removed without repair of the worn parts. A rubber ride or air pin box won't remove the thunk and clunk of a worn or poor kingpin to hitch coupling....

Pullrite is a quality piece with very good customer support. Hijacker has an auto slide too don't know anything about it yet...

The Fifth Airborne Sidewinder is interesting but the trailer frame manufacturers, lippert, zieman, norco don't like them and may deny warranty claims unless installed by the factory like the Challenger mentioned.

You will get many differing opinions on this question. Good luck!

If a Pullrite ends up being the choice - Check out Kearbey RV Kearbey RV and CD RV Parts Center CD RV Parts Center  for good prices and reasonable service.

Map Guy


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## HTQM (May 31, 2006)

Rich,

We camped this weekend with some friends, they have the 31KFW and 14K Superglide in a F350 short bed. Watching him back that thing betwen some trees on a loop was impressive, the hitch worked just as advertised. Tighter he turned the farther back it would slide pin. We got to talking about it over a cold beverage and the only thing he could think of as a down fall was if the truck broke down while towing the 5er Roo. What activates the automatic slide is a plate bolted (and a few tack welds in his case) to the pin box. If he breaks down, only another Superglide could hook up and tow his camper. I case that could be theft deturent (sp) as well though.

Another thing we discovered, be carefull of the bedrail mounted tool box.







Just some minor scratches in his case but enough to upset when the camper is only to months old.

Hope this helps,
Dave


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## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

HTQM said:


> Rich,
> 
> We camped this weekend with some friends, they have the 31KFW and 14K Superglide in a F350 short bed. Watching him back that thing betwen some trees on a loop was impressive, the hitch worked just as advertised. Tighter he turned the farther back it would slide pin. We got to talking about it over a cold beverage and the only thing he could think of as a down fall was if the truck broke down while towing the 5er Roo. What activates the automatic slide is a plate bolted (and a few tack welds in his case) to the pin box. If he breaks down, only another Superglide could hook up and tow his camper. I case that could be theft deturent (sp) as well though.
> 
> ...


Pullrite has custom capture plates (the part with the wedge that makes the slide happen) for most common PIN Boxes that unbolt quick and easy. Also, in most cases the universal capture plate can be installed without welding it to the PIN box by drilling/tapping pin box and countersinking the bolt heads in the capture plate. Most dealers seem to favor the "weld it on method" utilizing the universal capture plate due to time/labor cost.

Map Guy


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## bikerdude&dudette (Jul 13, 2007)

as dave said..we LOVE ours...we are full timers waiting on military orders and have to move sites on a more than weekly basis.. the DW isnt used to pulling 5ers so this makes it SOOOOO much easier(and cheaper 4 repairs) if she has to move when i am still at work...the quick rail is nice to return my bed to normal use when not towing...with instalation and purchase of super rail and 14k i am only into it ab obout 1900.00 total..i know the reese is alot cheaper, but if you met the DW it is ALOT cheaper..the only drawback is the capture plate which i had to get for the 31kfw was the universal mount which did require a tack weld...but if push came to shove...a good wack with the DH(dear hammer in this case) i could release i believe...and i got a discount on insurance for having a theft deturant....only a superglide can pull it....
hope it helped a bit....
steve


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## webeopelas (Mar 11, 2006)

Only other drawback to the Pullrite is that it is a heavy bugger. 300 lbs according to the manual. It also does not split into two pieces like the manual sliders. If you have friends always willing to help, or some other method of lifting 300 lbs out of the truck bed, it is great.


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## OBcanOB (Aug 23, 2007)

We run the Colibert hitch and the Fifth Airborne Sidewinder. It's incredible. Very quiet, very little chucking. No worries. And it's rated for about twice the weight of our pin, so we feel very confident. One nice benefit is the weight always stays over the axle, whereas with the sliders the weight moves behind the axle when cornering.

I think all the auto sliders work well. And if you don't mind the manual (and have a good memory) system, they too will serve you well.


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## Highlander96 (Mar 1, 2005)

The best hitch that I have is the 18K Reese Slider that I picked up from this site. I couldn't beat the deal and the guy who sold it is a really nice guy.

We were dead set on the Pullrite last year when I got stuck with the 28RSDS. We really wanted a 5er, but we really didn't want the extra lbs. of the cost associated with such.

long story short................We picked up another camper that really was not quite what we wanted and we have been shopping for 5er's, AGAIN!!!

Good luck with your search!

Tim


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## webeopelas (Mar 11, 2006)

My last opinion on this subject and the reason I did what I did:









The hitch was part of the deal on the new 5er. I know the cost was worked in there somehow, but I still got a great deal on the camper, so to me, it was free.

If at some point in the future, I no longer trust my slider, I can put a 5th Airborne Air Ride Sidewinder (the one with the shocks and airbags) on the trailer, get the same benefits as the Pullrite, gain some shock absorbing properties, and have about the same amount of money into the setup as buying the Pullrite.

This question really falls into the personal preference category. You've heard the benefits of the Pullrite, and the fact the manual sliders work well also. So it has to come down to *your* cost vs benefit analysis. (Thats the part that normally takes me six months of obsessive looking on the internet)


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## HTQM (May 31, 2006)

webeopelas said:


> Only other drawback to the Pullrite is that it is a heavy bugger. 300 lbs according to the manual. It also does not split into two pieces like the manual sliders. If you have friends always willing to help, or some other method of lifting 300 lbs out of the truck bed, it is great.


Steves goes into about 4 pieces to take out...very nifty. He picked up the hitch head (probably not called that) and carried it to the tail gate, I think he could have climbed out and carried into the garage but I helped anyway. After that the rails lift out then the rail mounts come out of the bed leaving it clean except four holes.


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## webeopelas (Mar 11, 2006)

HTQM said:


> Only other drawback to the Pullrite is that it is a heavy bugger. 300 lbs according to the manual. It also does not split into two pieces like the manual sliders. If you have friends always willing to help, or some other method of lifting 300 lbs out of the truck bed, it is great.


Steves goes into about 4 pieces to take out...very nifty. He picked up the hitch head (probably not called that) and carried it to the tail gate, I think he could have climbed out and carried into the garage but I helped anyway. After that the rails lift out then the rail mounts come out of the bed leaving it clean except four holes.
[/quote]

I stand corrected


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## GlenninTexas (Aug 11, 2004)

webeopelas said:


> Only other drawback to the Pullrite is that it is a heavy bugger. 300 lbs according to the manual. It also does not split into two pieces like the manual sliders. If you have friends always willing to help, or some other method of lifting 300 lbs out of the truck bed, it is great.


I made a little cart for my hitch, using a piece of scrap plywood and 2x4's as walls on three sides. Put some casters on the bottom. Once I have it lowered from the truck bed using my tractor's front loader, I can easily move the hitch to where I want it. I'll have to take a picture and post it in the gallery.

Regards, Glenn


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## webeopelas (Mar 11, 2006)

GlenninTexas said:


> Only other drawback to the Pullrite is that it is a heavy bugger. 300 lbs according to the manual. It also does not split into two pieces like the manual sliders. If you have friends always willing to help, or some other method of lifting 300 lbs out of the truck bed, it is great.


I made a little cart for my hitch, using a piece of scrap plywood and 2x4's as walls on three sides. Put some casters on the bottom. Once I have it lowered from the truck bed using my tractor's front loader, I can easily move the hitch to where I want it. I'll have to take a picture and post it in the gallery.

Regards, Glenn
[/quote]

Shoot, why didn't I think of that! Only thing I am missing is the tractor with a front loader! Hmmm, dad's got three...2000mi roundtrip to put in/take out my hitch...


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## Wolfpackers (May 31, 2007)

Bull Elk said:


> We are looking into making the move to a fiver over the winter and were curious for input on hitches. My 2500hd has a standard 6'6" box and I do not want to deal with any body work to the back of the cab. I have been researching the Pullrite Superglide, but really thought I should hear the real story from the members of Outbackers.com.
> Thanks,
> Rich


Being new to the towing world and knowing that when things aren't going well (like backing into a tight space), I get in a hurry and would forget to unlock a manual slide or would push the limits without having to get out and operate the manual slide, I went with the Pullrite Superglide automatic slider. I had it installed using the Superrails, which allow the hitch to be totally removed from the truck, leaving the four small holes in the bed. Well worth the money in my opinion.

I installed a small electric hoist in the garage for getting the hitch in/out of the truck. I built a dolly with caster wheels to lower the hitch on and roll it out of the way. I think mine weighs 225 pounds. Hoist is from Harbor Freight... $80 on sale.

All depends on your preferences.

Good luck with your decision.
Brent


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