# Grey Tank Valve Leak?



## vvsarpsjr (Aug 17, 2008)

Haven't had this problem previously but on the past 2 trips (after full hook-ups and dumping at site) when I open the main waste cap for the next stop, there is a gush of grey water. There's probably a quart of liquid. Both grey valve handles are pushed in as far as they can go. The trailer has been either level or slightly leaning on the main waste outlet side during the prior dumping. After dumping the grey tanks and shutting the valve, flow stops, no dripping, seems normal. Has anyone else had this problem? Is the valve leaking or is grey water between the valve and the main outlet stagnant or blocked? Thanks


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

My guess is there is a bit of debris stuck in the seal. I would try multiple flushes/rinses if you happen to be at the dump station with no one waiting behind you. There is also a product sold to help lube the gasket to help prevent this. You can purchase this at your local RV store.


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## bbwb (Apr 4, 2008)

I had/have the same problem, except mine is the black tank valve. All of flushing in the world would not allow the valve to close all the way. I did not want to got to the trouble of replacing the valve and dealing with the underbelly, so I installed a third valve just upstream from the sewer hose connection. I now don't have to worry about making my white sneakers brown!
bbwb


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## mountainlady56 (Feb 13, 2006)

bbwb said:


> I had/have the same problem, except mine is the black tank valve. All of flushing in the world would not allow the valve to close all the way. I did not want to got to the trouble of replacing the valve and dealing with the underbelly, so I installed a third valve just upstream from the sewer hose connection. I now don't have to worry about making my white sneakers brown!
> bbwb


I had this same problem, on my last motorhome, and they told me to just "spray the handle each time with WD40"! I took it in about it, about 3 months from purchase, and they didn't do anything. Later, it would be 2 1/2 hours labor at $115/hr!!
Be thankful you can do things, yourself!! Like you, I got tired of my sneakers getting soiled!!
Darlene


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## CdnOutback (Apr 16, 2010)

mountainlady56 said:


> I had/have the same problem, except mine is the black tank valve. All of flushing in the world would not allow the valve to close all the way. I did not want to got to the trouble of replacing the valve and dealing with the underbelly, so I installed a third valve just upstream from the sewer hose connection. I now don't have to worry about making my white sneakers brown!
> bbwb


I had this same problem, on my last motorhome, and they told me to just "spray the handle each time with WD40"! I took it in about it, about 3 months from purchase, and they didn't do anything. Later, it would be 2 1/2 hours labor at $115/hr!!
Be thankful you can do things, yourself!! Like you, I got tired of my sneakers getting soiled!!
Darlene
[/quote]

sneakers are better than flip flops or sandals!


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## Bob in Virginia (Jul 15, 2010)

I had the same problem on my grey valve on my new 301BQ. Made sure it wasn't operator error and then took it in for warranty repair. They replaced the existing handle and shaft with a longer one. Turns out the valve couldn't close all the way with the existing short shaft. Happy camper, no more gush of water when opening the cap.


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## vvsarpsjr (Aug 17, 2008)

This weekend was able to do multiple flushing of the tank but leak remains. Technically this problem began before the year warranty was up but I suspect that will be an issue and not crazy about going back to dealership because of time and distance. I have heard it is not difficult to replace the valve (4 bolts and it comes out) but getting at it can be difficult with the covered under carriage. Is there a rule of thumb where it should be in relation to the handle? Is it a big deal to cut a hole in the under carriage and repair it? Thanks to all have responded so far.


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## Insomniak (Jul 7, 2006)

vvsarpsjr said:


> This weekend was able to do multiple flushing of the tank but leak remains. Technically this problem began before the year warranty was up but I suspect that will be an issue and not crazy about going back to dealership because of time and distance. I have heard it is not difficult to replace the valve (4 bolts and it comes out) but getting at it can be difficult with the covered under carriage. Is there a rule of thumb where it should be in relation to the handle? Is it a big deal to cut a hole in the under carriage and repair it? Thanks to all have responded so far.


Not a big deal to fix the valve & it's probably just the gasket. My black tank valve had the same problem last year and no amount of flushing could fix it. I cut a flap in the underbelly and had plenty of room to work. Removed the four bolts, pulled out the valve and popped in the new one. I don't remember if I replaced the entire valve or just the gaskets, but it solved the problem. A few years ago, I bought several sheets of the same plastic that's used to enclose the underbelly from an online art supply store. I think they were 24" x 36" or something like that, and not too expensive. I cut a piece bigger than the hole I created, drilled some small holes around the perimeter, sealed the edges with black roofing cement and attached the patch with little zip ties. Closed the opening well and I can still get back in there if I need to.


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## vvsarpsjr (Aug 17, 2008)

No going well. Got the replacement gaskets and cut into the underbelly. Removed the bolts with difficulty because there was not a whole lot of room to work. Then could not slide the valve out at all. Even with gentle prying could not get it to come out. It is possible that the two pipes on either side are just too close together? Anybody have any suggestions? Replaced the bolts then filled the tank some on the hope that the manipulations helped; no such luck. Still leaking...


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## 5 KENDALL'S CAMPING (Jul 9, 2008)

I also had the same problem every time I took the waste cap off to dump, a rush of water came out before I could put the sewer hose on. Somewhere on this site I read about a new valve that attaches to the opening at the end of the waste line just like the waste cap and then the cap just fits on that. Now I can take off the cap add the hose and then open the waste valves and don't have to worry about a spill. I actually think whatever was in the way of the leaking valve has been flushed out because I don't hear a rush of water when I open the new end valve but I left it on anyway as a backup. I think it cost about $20 or $30 and just twists right on like the hose or cap.

Dean


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