# Leak In Front Storage Compartment



## Boomer2012

Hi everyone -- We purchased our 2012 250rs about a month ago and during delivery the dealer told us they noted some water in the front door-side storage compartment and, as a result, "re-caulked around the door" and all appeared ok. We've had the trailer covered since then and just brought it home for a run-through of systems prior to our first trip next week. I discovered that after sitting out in some pretty hard rain overnight (uncovered) that the front right compartment had water in in it again.

The door is the type with the hinge on top (like the one in the back of the trailer) and I am surprised at how much play there is in these doors when opening and closing. At first glance, the rubber seal around the opening appears to be new and in good shape and also appears to be in the right place so I am a little confused as to the source of the leak. I noted another post about an older unit that suggested I should caulk around the top of the hinge and will look into this but was wondering if anyone else has had a similar problem and could let me know what you did to resolve it.

I have a call into the dealer but bought it in another state so I would at least like to know what solutions have worked when I speak with the dealer so they don't keep trying the wrong things.

Otherwise, love the rig. Thanks again.

Jim


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## Stoney

Mine had the same problem. Was at the dealer with it and it was found that the seal on that compartment was pieced together at the top. It should have been pieced together at the bottom. This was repaired and the leak stopped.


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## W.E.BGood

Our 2011 had the same problem. I noticed that when I lifted/opened the door, water would run-out of the door trim-surround ON THE INSIDE. It was like water was getting trapped in the surround and not draining out of the little holes at the bottom of the door.
I used good quality latex-silicon caulk, went around the trim joint of the door on the OUTSIDE and it's stayed dry.
I couldn't find any evidence of the black rubber door seal itself not fitting or sealing.


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## Boomer2012

Stoney and W.E. BGood -- thank you for your replies. I was wondering about the same thing, Stoney, as the only thing I noted that might be unusual is that the black rubber/foam sealer that goes around the inside of the door frame (the metal that the door seals against) is also connected at the top. This, coupled with the poor top-hinge design seems like it could contribute to the problem...water enters gap between door and frame, hits the gap in the seal and enters the inside of the door.

WE BGood -- I am a simple beast and wasn't quite understanding your recommended solution and was wondering if you could add some more detail to what you suggest. One thing I was wondering about is I have read a number of owners referencing holes in the door frame or door where water should drain and I don't notice any. I have attached a photo of the compartment in question and was wondering if you could tell me a little more.

Thanks again for your help.


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## W.E.BGood

Boomer2012 said:


> Stoney and W.E. BGood -- thank you for your replies. I was wondering about the same thing, Stoney, as the only thing I noted that might be unusual is that the black rubber/foam sealer that goes around the inside of the door frame (the metal that the door seals against) is also connected at the top. This, coupled with the poor top-hinge design seems like it could contribute to the problem...water enters gap between door and frame, hits the gap in the seal and enters the inside of the door.
> 
> WE BGood -- I am a simple beast and wasn't quite understanding your recommended solution and was wondering if you could add some more detail to what you suggest. One thing I was wondering about is I have read a number of owners referencing holes in the door frame or door where water should drain and I don't notice any. I have attached a photo of the compartment in question and was wondering if you could tell me a little more.
> 
> Thanks again for your help.


OK, the door you have lifted up, there's no drain holes along the edge that is now pointing up? There is a 'band' that goes around the edge of the door that you have hinged up. If you shut the door, there is joint between that band and the facing of the door. It is that joint that I went around forcing the caulk into that seam or joint so that water striking the face panel of the door has to run down and there's no crack, seam or joint for it to seep into. Does that help...otherwise I'll see about getting a pix of mine. Regards, BGood


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## CamperAndy

Actually I think the door design is very good but the leak issue is still there.

The spot at the top of the seal joint has a very low probability as a leak source when located at the top under the hinge. unless there is a significant gap, a butt joint in itself is not an issue

The main leak point is a combination of effects;

First the water that lands on top of the hinge can wick into the gap between the frame and the hinge but the only place it can go to cause issues are the rivets. Again the water can wick past the rivets to the second part of the hinge and again it has only one place it can go and that is to wick into the rivets that hold the door to the hinge. From here it can weep one of three ways. Down the outside face, no problem with that. Around the frame to the bottom, only a minor problem if the weep holes in the bottom of the door frame are plugged or otherwise restricted, allowing the door frame to fill and over flow. Down the inside face of the door, this is the biggest concern for water migration.

To avoid the issue, run a bead of caulk across the top of the hinge. Then open the door and press a dab of caulk into and around each rivet head. No more leaks. We have also had members place stick on rain gutters over the doors and windows and gutter extension on the roof gutters to minimize water running down the wall of the trailer.


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## Boomer2012

Thanks again everyone. You guys, as always, have been extremely helpful. I have printed your replies and will bring them to our dealer when we make the trip to Portland next week. They have been great and will do whatever it takes to figure it out and thanks to each of you I have given them some very specific things to look at.

Jim


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## Boomer2012

One last question -- I was going to caulk the areas you suggested but am not sure what the best product or type is for the job. Any advice? I don't have an RV dealer close by but there are lots of boat dealers and suspect they would have stuff that would work well. Any recommendations?

Thanks again.


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## CamperAndy

Boomer2012 said:


> One last question -- I was going to caulk the areas you suggested but am not sure what the best product or type is for the job. Any advice? I don't have an RV dealer close by but there are lots of boat dealers and suspect they would have stuff that would work well. Any recommendations?
> 
> Thanks again.


No real recommendation for a specific brand but since it is metal I would use a basic caulk that is formulated for use on windows, that have mildew protection. I also prefer caulks that are able to be cleaned up with water.


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## W.E.BGood

Boomer2012 said:


> One last question -- I was going to caulk the areas you suggested but am not sure what the best product or type is for the job. Any advice? I don't have an RV dealer close by but there are lots of boat dealers and suspect they would have stuff that would work well. Any recommendations?
> 
> Thanks again.


Not sure if there isn't "better" stuff, but I used DAP Dynaflex 230 Premium Elastomeric Latex Sealant 50 year caulk, CLEAR, in the standard caulking-gun tube. It has a "lighter weight" smooth viscosity so you can force it into small grooves, water clean-up, comes out white but dries clear, and I've used it for years around the house and found it lasts.


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