# Led Light Strip In Awning Role Or Against Tt



## m2edumacated

Just wondering if anyone has had any success with this. This seems to be the latest mod I'm seeing on new tt's. personally I have the 2011 outback 301bh. Really do love it. Thought that would be a cool mod. Also stuck on how to get it safely wiring it up to a switch on the inside without ripping it up too much. Two options I have seen was inside the awning roll itself ( mine is motorized) or right where the awning meets the trailer. Thoughts? Even better instuctions or pics?


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## H2oSprayer

I did this with our 312 last year. I simply purchased a strip if waterproof 5050 RGB LED lights that had a white background and double sided tape on the back. I stuck them to the underside of the rain gutter, that way I would not have to worry about them damaging the awning. I ran the 12 volt wire into the camper via the same means as the powered awning motor wire, except at the opposite end of the awning. I was lucky that where I needed to enter the camper was inside the bathroom cabinet. I stopped at my local RV dealer and had them order the awning bracket wire cover so you cant even see the wire. It turned out to be a very clean install. With it being a 12 volt lighting system, I have awning lights even when not hooked up to shore power. LMK if you would like a more detailed explanation of the installation.


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## m2edumacated

H2oSprayer said:


> I did this with our 312 last year. I simply purchased a strip if waterproof 5050 RGB LED lights that had a white background and double sided tape on the back. I stuck them to the underside of the rain gutter, that way I would not have to worry about them damaging the awning. I ran the 12 volt wire into the camper via the same means as the powered awning motor wire, except at the opposite end of the awning. I was lucky that where I needed to enter the camper was inside the bathroom cabinet. I stopped at my local RV dealer and had them order the awning bracket wire cover so you cant even see the wire. It turned out to be a very clean install. With it being a 12 volt lighting system, I have awning lights even when not hooked up to shore power. LMK if you would like a more detailed explanation of the installation.


Thanks for the insight! Looking at mine, I don't think I have a cabinet around. Have to see what to do. Might be taking you up on your offer for more details once the snow clears


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## raynardo

I put a 16' LED strip on the metal drum around with the awning revolves/retracts.

I made sure that the strip faced the trailer. It is great lighting.

I connected it to plug which I plug into a 12v transformer when I'm on shore power, or I can run it of a battery 12v source when off the grid.

Here are some photos:


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## mcsquid86

[quote name='raynardo' date='13 February 2013 - 11:15 PM' timestamp='1360815305' post='431929']
I put a 16' LED strip on the metal drum around with the awning revolves/retracts.

I made sure that the strip faced the trailer. It is great lighting.

I connected it to plug which I plug into a 12v transformer when I'm on shore power, or I can run it of a battery 12v source when off the grid.

That looks great. I might try that.


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## m2edumacated

raynardo said:


> I put a 16' LED strip on the metal drum around with the awning revolves/retracts.
> 
> I made sure that the strip faced the trailer. It is great lighting.
> 
> I connected it to plug which I plug into a 12v transformer when I'm on shore power, or I can run it of a battery 12v source when off the grid.


Just curious on the attachment? At the end of the strip, what did youbdo to connect power. I'm wondering how to to that considering you have to retract the awning i dont want any cables to be banged around or wound up. Thanks


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## raynardo

For me, I use a 2.1mm (0.8") coax power plug on a 6' cable attached to the LED lights. If you look at my last photo you'll see a strange button-like object in the middle of the photo, that's a Bluelounge Design CDBR CableDrop. I put it into that position so that it will be in the right place to hold the coax power plug. When that's done, I just roll up my awning as usual. It presents no problem, and it's always ready to go!


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## summerfun

How expensive are 16' LED light bars? How did you attach them to your awning? I like this better than having the hanging lights off the awning, looks good. And where did you find them?


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## ifd22

How water tight are these? My concern would be the constant moisture. My awning always seems to be wet when I unroll it, even when it was dry when I rolled it up.


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## LaydBack

Hitlights.com they're about $45 for the kit. Water weeps in from the ends and I never had an issue with it on mine. Just make sure you order the waterproof ones. If you need wireway covers for your awning arms, you have to get a number off of the awning arms and order them from Dometic.


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## H2oSprayer

ifd22 said:


> How water tight are these? My concern would be the constant moisture. My awning always seems to be wet when I unroll it, even when it was dry when I rolled it up.


The strip that I provided the link in my above post is uncased in some sort of a silicone gel, making them completely waterproof. I chose the placement of mine for a couple of reasons; not wanting to worry about plugging / unplugging them and not wanting to worry about damaging the awning. So far, they have worked flawlessly.


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## m2edumacated

H20,

Once you got into the cabinet did you simply look for power and splice into it? What kind of switch didmyou install? The more i think about it the more that seems to be the way to go for me. Besides if a storm comes in, one less thing i have to worry about.

On a side not, i'll be ordering a 5m strand, 44 different colour combos with remote. I can plug in or wire (has parts for both) I'll be in 32 bucks. Look for 5050's and waterproof. Getting mine straight from China, skipping middle man. Actually, up here in Canada i have to go through 2 or 3 middlemen usually. Place called aliexpress. Look for good ratings and be prepared to wait a couple of months.

Glad i started this thread







thanks again everyone, lets keep the info goin!


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## raynardo

I purchased my waterproof LED strips in warm gold (3533), length 16.4' at 4.8w/meter from Meritline.com, paid $23.91 to have them delivered to my door. I've purchased a number of items from Meritline.com, they're always inexpensive and many times cheap, but these lights were okay. There's an adhesive strip on the back for the entire length that makes putting them on the awning very easy.

I've been running mine about a year. I thought I was one of the first people to come up with this idea. In fact I was even thinking of marketing a complete kit in different awning lengths, complete with shore power and 12v hook-up (polarity counts!). But I'm too lazy to start marketing a product and handling all the associated BS with running a company. I'm retired. I like being retired. I like camping.

Nevertheless, I've never seen any other RV with this set-up and whenever I camp anywhere and have the lights running, people are amazed, and want to know everything about them.

I'm guessing it'll be a short time until some manufacturer makes it an optional item on their awning for a $100 mark-up!


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## H2oSprayer

m2edumacated said:


> Once you got into the cabinet did you simply look for power and splice into it? What kind of switch didmyou install?


Keep in mind, I installed this in a 312BH, so wire routing will end up being different for your unit.








As this is the kit that I used for under the awning, please refer to the photo throughout this description. The first first thing that I did was to cut the black wire half the way between the plug and the strip. I found a length of wire laying around that had enough conductors inside (I believe it was from a in ground sprinkler system install) and attached it to the wire leading from the LED strip. Keep in mind that this portion will be subject to weather, so solder and heat shrink tubing will be your friend. I decided where I wanted my wire to enter the camper and after a bit of reassurance from Steve (LaydBack) I finally grabbed the drill, held my breath and started drilling the hole. Keep in mind that your awning support should be bolted through an aluminum wall stud, so you will have to use caution to drill around the edge of it. As I said above, the wire entered inside the bathroom vanity and I ran the wire under the shower, through the furnace compartment, under the stove (behind the converter / fuse panel), under the kitchen sink and finally in the cabinet where the slide out switches, awning control switch and tank monitor display is located. I spliced the black plug onto the end of the wire and plugged it into the white color control module. I drilled a small hole to pass the IR receiver for the color changer module into the cabinet. I then used a piece of Velcro to stick the remote to the inside of the cabinet so it wouldn't become misplaced. I then went back to the fuse panel, found an empty 12 volt power point, installed a fuse and ran another wire over to where I mounted the remote control. I clipped off the round plug from the kit supplied power supply and attached that to the wire I ran from the fuse panel. Although the remote control has an on/off button on it, I installed a 12 volt switch in the power supply wire so there will not be a constant low draw when the lights were off. I then went back outside and filled the hole around the wire where it came into the camper with a copious amount of Dicor sealant. I capped that off with a wire cover that my local RV dealer was able to order from Dometic. Although this is an over simplified overview of the install, you get an idea of what you are in for. All in all, it took about 2 hours and about 6 beers; 5 of which were consumed while trying to gather enough courage to drill through the side of the camper. I'll look through the thousands of photos that we took last summer and see if I can find any that I may have taken of the install.


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## m2edumacated

Wow! Lots to wrap my head around but i got the idea. Good calls on the beer! As I mentioned earlier, trailer is still in winter storage so this little project is for when the snow melts. H20, thanks for taking the time to write that up. It is appreciated.

Oh, you know the spt where you cut the cable, well i think i will be using a dc wire adapter that plugs into the remote module and has the wires on the other end. instead of the power block. Thanks again. Im pulling a 2011 outback 301bh so my pantry next to the fridge is right where my awning ends. That is where i think im going in!


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## kebm

H2oSprayer said:


> Once you got into the cabinet did you simply look for power and splice into it? What kind of switch didmyou install?


Keep in mind, I installed this in a 312BH, so wire routing will end up being different for your unit.








As this is the kit that I used for under the awning, please refer to the photo throughout this description. The first first thing that I did was to cut the black wire half the way between the plug and the strip. I found a length of wire laying around that had enough conductors inside (I believe it was from a in ground sprinkler system install) and attached it to the wire leading from the LED strip. Keep in mind that this portion will be subject to weather, so solder and heat shrink tubing will be your friend. I decided where I wanted my wire to enter the camper and after a bit of reassurance from Steve (LaydBack) I finally grabbed the drill, held my breath and started drilling the hole. Keep in mind that your awning support should be bolted through an aluminum wall stud, so you will have to use caution to drill around the edge of it. As I said above, the wire entered inside the bathroom vanity and I ran the wire under the shower, through the furnace compartment, under the stove (behind the converter / fuse panel), under the kitchen sink and finally in the cabinet where the slide out switches, awning control switch and tank monitor display is located. I spliced the black plug onto the end of the wire and plugged it into the white color control module. I drilled a small hole to pass the IR receiver for the color changer module into the cabinet. I then used a piece of Velcro to stick the remote to the inside of the cabinet so it wouldn't become misplaced. I then went back to the fuse panel, found an empty 12 volt power point, installed a fuse and ran another wire over to where I mounted the remote control. I clipped off the round plug from the kit supplied power supply and attached that to the wire I ran from the fuse panel. Although the remote control has an on/off button on it, I installed a 12 volt switch in the power supply wire so there will not be a constant low draw when the lights were off. I then went back outside and filled the hole around the wire where it came into the camper with a copious amount of Dicor sealant. I capped that off with a wire cover that my local RV dealer was able to order from Dometic. Although this is an over simplified overview of the install, you get an idea of what you are in for. All in all, it took about 2 hours and about 6 beers; 5 of which were consumed while trying to gather enough courage to drill through the side of the camper. I'll look through the thousands of photos that we took last summer and see if I can find any that I may have taken of the install.
[/quote]

I bought a very similar strip on ebay for around $23. It does not have the ac power adapter as in your pic, though. Too cold out now to install, but I hooked it up to a portable jump starter to test it out. I was impressed in how bright it is. Also like that it is dimmable. We also have a 312bh . My plan is to attach the strip on the side of the TT just under the awning, drilling through into the cabinet above the kitchen sink. The led strip has power connectors on both ends, and I have a y splitter for the power output of the controller. The strip would have to be cut to length at the hole and both power connectors fed into the hole. I would then tap into 12v power at the switch panel for the outside lighting inside the cabinet. Then the IR remote sensor would be fed back through the hole so that the remote can be used outside. I like your velcro remote storage idea, I could velcro mine in the outside kitchen. Also I hadn't thought of adding a switch, that is something I will do also. Do you see any problems/any suggestions?


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## susan/vt

We went to an RV show yesterday and guess what was showing up on all the awnings? Yup, LED strips on the roller bar. The guys were all over that.


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## m2edumacated

@kebm liking your idea. Never thought about cutting right down the middle and going into the cabinets in the kitchen. Would be alot easier getting it to the switches that are already part of the trailer. Dont see why that wouldnt work. You go first







let me know and take pictures. Promise ill do it after you









Oh, what do you mean "y splitter" for the adapter?


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## kebm

m2edumacated said:


> @kebm liking your idea. Never thought about cutting right down the middle and going into the cabinets in the kitchen. Would be alot easier getting it to the switches that are already part of the trailer. Dont see why that wouldnt work. You go first
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> let me know and take pictures. Promise ill do it after you
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Oh, what do you mean "y splitter" for the adapter?


The controller has one output connection to the light strip, for this installation it needs to be split into two to connect both ends of the light strip, since it will be cut. I got a splitter on ebay, but here is one on amazon;
My link
I also had to buy a 4 pin connector to connect the splitter to the controller, as all of the ends of the splitter are female.

I really wanted the light on the awning roller, but by mounting it on the side wall no wire needs to be run/removed to operate the awning. I plan to install as soon as it warms up some outside.








I should post some pics after.


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## m2edumacated

Time to bump the thread







decided to run on the awning. Going to run the 12 volt wire down the arm. I am then going to run it t the light switch in the stotage compartment in the front. use the remote to turn on and off. Talked with laydback who has done something similiar with running down the arm. I will be covering the arm with an insert from domestic. Only problem i am seeing is as the awning moves in and out i am worried about the wires getting all messed up inside the awning arm. I know i'll have to have more wire for slack. I think i will need some kind of kind set up for these that allow the wires to move, but keep them from bunching or ripping or any of that messy stuff. Thoughts?


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## LaydBack

m2edumacated said:


> Time to bump the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> decided to run on the awning. Going to run the 12 volt wire down the arm. I am then going to run it t the light switch in the stotage compartment in the front. use the remote to turn on and off. Talked with laydback who has done something similiar with running down the arm. I will be covering the arm with an insert from domestic. Only problem i am seeing is as the awning moves in and out i am worried about the wires getting all messed up inside the awning arm. I know i'll have to have more wire for slack. I think i will need some kind of kind set up for these that allow the wires to move, but keep them from bunching or ripping or any of that messy stuff. Thoughts?


Look at the way the power wiring for the awning is. What you're doing for the LEDs should mock that, and not present any issues.


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## clarkely

are any of these dimmable?


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## m2edumacated

LaydBack said:


> Time to bump the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> decided to run on the awning. Going to run the 12 volt wire down the arm. I am then going to run it t the light switch in the stotage compartment in the front. use the remote to turn on and off. Talked with laydback who has done something similiar with running down the arm. I will be covering the arm with an insert from domestic. Only problem i am seeing is as the awning moves in and out i am worried about the wires getting all messed up inside the awning arm. I know i'll have to have more wire for slack. I think i will need some kind of kind set up for these that allow the wires to move, but keep them from bunching or ripping or any of that messy stuff. Thoughts?


Look at the way the power wiring for the awning is. What you're doing for the LEDs should mock that, and not present any issues.
[/quote]

Thanks! But now what about the turning of the awning as it rolls up. I cant see any other way other than disconnecting it. As it rolls the wires will be looping over and over. Worried about that after doing it for a season. Could really twist up.


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## m2edumacated

clarkely said:


> are any of these dimmable?


Mine are very dimmable. (40 different settings) picked mine up through aliexpress. No issues. Remember to get the 5050's and waterproof.


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## LaydBack

m2edumacated said:


> Time to bump the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> decided to run on the awning. Going to run the 12 volt wire down the arm. I am then going to run it t the light switch in the stotage compartment in the front. use the remote to turn on and off. Talked with laydback who has done something similiar with running down the arm. I will be covering the arm with an insert from domestic. Only problem i am seeing is as the awning moves in and out i am worried about the wires getting all messed up inside the awning arm. I know i'll have to have more wire for slack. I think i will need some kind of kind set up for these that allow the wires to move, but keep them from bunching or ripping or any of that messy stuff. Thoughts?


Look at the way the power wiring for the awning is. What you're doing for the LEDs should mock that, and not present any issues.
[/quote]

Thanks! But now what about the turning of the awning as it rolls up. I cant see any other way other than disconnecting it. As it rolls the wires will be looping over and over. Worried about that after doing it for a season. Could really twist up.
[/quote]
On mine, I left about 6" of wire attached to the LED strip and put a modular connection there were you can plug/unplug before operating awning. I then tuck the other end back down in the awning arm.


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## sptddog

Does the power strip come off the LED strip? In other words, could I adhere them to the metal roller, and then just plug and unplug the power strip in it when I put the awning up? I don't have a power awning, nor do I want to try drilling holes and running the wire inside. I'm fine with the old school concept of plugging it in like the cheap strip like I use now, but I just need to make sure the plug detaches from the end of the strip so I could remove the power strip and put it inside for storage. From the pic posted above, it seems like it does?


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## LaydBack

sptddog said:


> Does the power strip come off the LED strip? In other words, could I adhere them to the metal roller, and then just plug and unplug the power strip in it when I put the awning up? I don't have a power awning, nor do I want to try drilling holes and running the wire inside. I'm fine with the old school concept of plugging it in like the cheap strip like I use now, but I just need to make sure the plug detaches from the end of the strip so I could remove the power strip and put it inside for storage. From the pic posted above, it seems like it does?


Yes. There's a short 4 conductor flat cable on the end .


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## bbuchorn

Want choices? Clarify or confuse? I buy stuff from China through Ebay all the time. bought LED replacement lights for my overhead lights at 4.00 a piece. Here's 22,000 choices for the strip lights. just read carefully, as some come with or without power supplies.







http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1311.R5.TR12.TRC2&_nkw=led+strip+lights+waterproof&_sacat=0&_from=R40


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## cwb440

Ordered these on amazon for my 312bh. 45.99 with free shipping for a 300 led color changing, waterproof strip with remote

TaoTronics TT-SL007 Waterproof 300 Color Changing SMD5050 LED Lighting Strip Kit RGB 16.4ft+44key with 72W Power Supply


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## MacTeam

I ordered and received my LED strip lighting from a Canadian firm "LED Montreal". I ordered "150 LED Multi Flex RGB LED Strip Kit". Service was excellent, I had it in 2 days and the lights work perfect.

3 things to note:
A. Pay the extra $30 and get ip68 class LEDs. These are actually submersible, not just weatherproof. The entire LED strip is encased in silicone tube... very nice. Standard is ip65 class which is not "Waterproof".
B. Pay the extra $15 and get an RF remote (as opposed to an IR). This way you don't need a sightline to activate the lights and there is no sensor. I can turn them on or off, change colours, etc from inside or outside the RV.
C. Wire the units right into the 12V. I am going to use the porch light source. Yes this means my porch light will be on whenever the LEDs are on but it gives me an inside on/off switch for them and the installation is much easier. Dealing with a 120V plug in is a pain. (IMHO)

http://ledmontreal.c...-strip-kit.html


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## bbuchorn

I just bought a string and mounted it under the drip rail where my awning attaches. To power it up I just spliced into the string at a solder pad set over the flood light, and ran a short power wire down into the top of the fixture.Really easy to attach power wherever in the string you want. just carefully trim off the clear insulation down to the copper solder pads and solder on your power leads, then cover your work with clear RTV silicone. Great results. I put white caulk over the power wire. Looks good , works good. Doesn't use near as much power as the regular light. Pictures will follow.







Picked up 2 more strings from Fleabay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/171092407458?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 1 for the back side of the trailer to light things up and 1 for the pass through trunk.


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