# Need To Adjust My Hitch



## ZHB (Mar 17, 2009)

Hey everyone - I have a hitch question. I have been using the same hitch almost 5 years now, same truck, same OB. I just came back from a trip, and took a photo on the way back. It looked to me then like the OB was sitting way too low, but I checked the setup, and it the same as I've always used. I have a Reese 12000lb WD hitch. I briefly tried to shorten the chain (hook it on the 5th link as opposed to the 4th) but it was VERY tight and hard to hook. But the way it is now, I'm guessing not enough weight is being sent to the front of the truck.

So - I honestly don't know how to adjust this thing. I see that there is a threaded rod on each side that can be adjusted, but I don't know how, or even IF that is the right thing to do. Any suggestions?


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## supenate (Apr 29, 2013)

I just installed the dual cam on our 27rsds and had fun getting the set up adjusted and still not completely sure if absolutley correct. A couple of things you can try is to first do the fender test, there are post that review the whole procedure this will help determine if your putting enough weight on the steer axle, i moved the hitch head up one hole to help level out and tilted the head back to help get the cam bars more parallel with the tongue. Also when puling up your chains you should have the weight off the bars by hitching up the trailer locking the hitch and with the tongue jack raise up the trailer and tow vehicle so there is very little weight on the bars allowing you to pull the chains and locking them with very little effort then you can lower the tongue and the bars will accept the weight. This is what i have read as there are numerous members that are masters of the trailer , myself i am just trying to learn as we go and keep the fam safe.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like there is not enough weight being transferd forward compounded by the ball height being too low.

If that is truly the case (I do not know the Specs for your truck ie: tow capacity, GCVWR, Payload, etc):

Safety: Ensure you use chocks when connecting and disconnecting. Do not get into a hurry. Take your time and make sure you pay close attention to retensioning hardware. This work should be done on level, or fairly level ground.

Tools: Measuring tape, Hitch Wrenches, chocks, rubber mallet.

1. Disconnect your trailer and level it front to back. 
2. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of your reciever. This will be the target height of your ball. 
3. Adjust the hitch head on your suburban to as close to this height as possible. You may need to flip the stinger. 
4. With your suburban unloaded and not hitched up, measure the distance from a point on the front bumper and the rear bumper to the ground. Record the measurements. 
5. Hitch up and cinch the WDH Bars. 
6. Measure the distance to the ground from your bumpers on the Suburban at the same point you measured before. 
7. If you have a drop on the front and rear that are close to each other (with in a couple of inches) you are pretty much where you want to be. 
8. If they differ greatly, like your photo, you may need to adjust the hitch head angle.
9. If you need to drop the front end of the suburban down a bit more, uncinch your bars, and disconnect. 
10. Loosen the hitch head and tilt it down dropping the bar tips about an inch or so.
11. Reconnect and cinch the bars up.
12. Remeasure your suburban bumper height again and record the change.
13. You may have to make minor adjustments several times.

Eric


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

egredd57 is right on.

However, on the suburban (and most other GM vehicles) I'll add one other comment. There is a rubber bump stop on the front suspension that has almost no clearance. What GM recomends is to bring the loaded height (measured at the bumper or fender) on the front ONLY Back to unloaded. That means the rear will likely be lower than unloaded, but that's the way it is. Trying to DROP the front below unloaded ride height will end up transferring way to much weight to the front and the ride will really suffer since your having to compress the bump stops and they are VERY stiff.

AND it should be near impossible to lever then chain on the snap up bracket without having using the tongue jack to lift the rear of the truck up quite a bit. If you can do it easily w/o lifting the tongue either your bars are not shifting much weight or your lots stronger than you think!

the common way to attach the chains is to use the tongue jack (that's why most of us have electric jacks!!) to lift the rear of the tow vehicle up 4 inches or so. Then with moderate leverage you should be able to get the chain snapped up. Do the same when removing. Remember, if you have 1000 lb bars that means that EACH bar is exerting up to 500lbs of force onto the ball. That's a LOT of force and and you have to overcome that force to put the chains on.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

KTMRacer said:


> egredd57 is right on.
> 
> However, on the suburban (and most other GM vehicles) I'll add one other comment. There is a rubber bump stop on the front suspension that has almost no clearance. What GM recomends is to bring the loaded height (measured at the bumper or fender) on the front ONLY Back to unloaded. That means the rear will likely be lower than unloaded, but that's the way it is. Trying to DROP the front below unloaded ride height will end up transferring way to much weight to the front and the ride will really suffer since your having to compress the bump stops and they are VERY stiff.
> 
> ...


 Yeah! What he said!


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## ZHB (Mar 17, 2009)

Egregg & KTM - thank you! I'll be working on it this weekend. I have not really made ANY adjustments to this since I first bought it, which is why it startled me to see it this way. But yes - I have ALWAYS had an easy time lifting the chains, as long as I'm straight and level. I honestly didn't know it was supposed to be difficult......I may have had it wrong all this time.


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

egregg57 said:


> Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like there is not enough weight being transferd forward compounded by the ball height being too low.
> 
> If that is truly the case (I do not know the Specs for your truck ie: tow capacity, GCVWR, Payload, etc):
> 
> ...


So Eric... the rubber mallet is for lightly tapping your head to ease frustration???


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

Leedek said:


> Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like there is not enough weight being transferd forward compounded by the ball height being too low.
> 
> If that is truly the case (I do not know the Specs for your truck ie: tow capacity, GCVWR, Payload, etc):
> 
> ...


So Eric... the rubber mallet is for lightly tapping your head to ease frustration???















[/quote]

Perhaps!! You never know! Ideally to help drive the hitch head bolts in. But can be used to smash bugs, flatten used beer cans, tapping ones head it frustration, and/or semi-passive aggressive threatening of inanimate objects. Truly a versitile tool one should never be without!

Eric


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## W5CI (Apr 21, 2009)

IMHO if you have been towing with this setup for 5 years with no issues why change anything.


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## egregg57 (Feb 13, 2006)

danny285 said:


> IMHO if you have been towing with this setup for 5 years with no issues why change anything.


 It seems the OP believes he might have an issue according to post #1. The photo seems to back his concern up as well. IMHO.


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## ZHB (Mar 17, 2009)

Basically, it never had that angle before - it was much more level. That's what I'm actually confused about; it appears that something has come out of it's previous adjustment.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

ZHB said:


> Basically, it never had that angle before - it was much more level. That's what I'm actually confused about; it appears that something has come out of it's previous adjustment.


Have you inspected the TV springs to make sure none have broken?


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