# 30 Frks 6-volt Battery Modification



## LastFrontier1! (Feb 13, 2007)

Hello All,

We finally got our new 2006 30 FRKS Outback delivered yesterday and are getting "up to speed" on all its features. Since the one 12-volt Group 24 battery that came with it was not going to be adequate for our dry camping needs, I bought two 6-volt batteries (220-amp hours) and will be installing them shortly. However, before I "re-invent the wheel" or encounter unexpected problems with this installation, I thought I would ask other 30 FRKS owners if they have done this type of battery conversion in the past and might be willing to offer any tips, suggestions and/or photographs on their installation.

Thanks in advance for the assistance and I look forward to hearing from my fellow Outbackers on this great website!

Regards,
Mike


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

I looked at that myself...and I don't know what to suggest. I will be watching this, I may want to do this upgrade myself.

Gary


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Very simple...doesn't matter which Outback you have.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Very simple...doesn't matter which Outback you have.


Call me a little slow if you must, But why are you only supplying your lift system with 6 volts?


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## Scrib (Jun 28, 2005)

Katrina said:


> Call me a little slow if you must, But why are you only supplying your lift system with 6 volts?


The "Red" cable connecting the negative terminal on the left battery, to the positive terminal on the right battery, effectively makes these two 6V batteries look like one, big, 12V battery to anything connected to them. The system can likewise be charged with a "normal" 12V charger, just like a single 12V battery.


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

Scrib said:


> Call me a little slow if you must, But why are you only supplying your lift system with 6 volts?


The "Red" cable connecting the negative terminal on the left battery, to the positive terminal on the right battery, effectively makes these two 6V batteries look like one, big, 12V battery to anything connected to them. The system can likewise be charged with a "normal" 12V charger, just like a single 12V battery.
[/quote]

Jim is correct. The way it is shown, the lift system will only see 6V.

Bob


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## Scrib (Jun 28, 2005)

W4DRR said:


> Jim is correct. The way it is shown, the lift system will only see 6V.
> 
> Bob


Oops! my bad - glanced over the line coming off the rear terminal


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Guess I will change the lift to the back connection. The gound is connected to the trailer ground.

I have never had any issues with power or ability to lift with this setup. Didn't know they would work with only 6v.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Oregon_Camper said:


> Guess I will change the lift to the back connection. The gound is connected to the trailer ground.
> 
> I have never had any issues with power or ability to lift with this setup. Didn't know they would work with only 6v.


Let us know how it does with 12 volts supplied to it.
Maybe you'll get things done twice as fast.


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

I understand the wiring of the batteries. The problem is there is a battery box that is recessed into the "floor" of the compartment and is vented to the outside with a hose that is attached to the battery cover. The first problem we have to overcome is mounting the second battery in the compartment and then venting out to the outside. The batteries sit directly under my bed...I don't want to go to bed and wake up dead one day.

Gary


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

I'm still not sold on the fact I don't have 12v's going to the lift.

I have the plug on the pos/neg....there by having both batteries connected.

I'll toss a meter on it tomorrow and find out for sure.


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## map guy (Jan 11, 2007)

Fire44 said:


> I understand the wiring of the batteries. The problem is there is a battery box that is recessed into the "floor" of the compartment and is vented to the outside with a hose that is attached to the battery cover. The first problem we have to overcome is mounting the second battery in the compartment and then venting out to the outside. The batteries sit directly under my bed...I don't want to go to bed and wake up dead one day.
> 
> Gary


Gary, 
This may be one of those applications that an AGM sealed battery is the best choice..... Price is higher but zero outgassing unless very brutally charged for a long period of time.

Map Guy


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Fire44 said:


> I understand the wiring of the batteries. The problem is there is a battery box that is recessed into the "floor" of the compartment and is vented to the outside with a hose that is attached to the battery cover. The first problem we have to overcome is mounting the second battery in the compartment and then venting out to the outside. The batteries sit directly under my bed...I don't want to go to bed and wake up dead one day.
> 
> Gary


Is there room to mount a second battery box and vent?
Or a larger box and vent?
They are not hard to find.
Hey!!!!

Wait a minute!!!!!!!!!!









You've never dry camped in your life!!!!!


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## Fire44 (Mar 6, 2005)

Katrina said:


> I understand the wiring of the batteries. The problem is there is a battery box that is recessed into the "floor" of the compartment and is vented to the outside with a hose that is attached to the battery cover. The first problem we have to overcome is mounting the second battery in the compartment and then venting out to the outside. The batteries sit directly under my bed...I don't want to go to bed and wake up dead one day.
> 
> Gary


Is there room to mount a second battery box and vent?
Or a larger box and vent?
They are not hard to find.
Hey!!!!

Wait a minute!!!!!!!!!!









You've never dry camped in your life!!!!!








[/quote]

SHHHH....Dawn might be watching!!!!

I am thinking about a trip this fall.....

Gary


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

Oregon_Camper said:


> I'm still not sold on the fact I don't have 12v's going to the lift.
> 
> I have the plug on the pos/neg....there by having both batteries connected.
> 
> I'll toss a meter on it tomorrow and find out for sure.


It is a given. *If* it is wired as you depicted it, then you only have 6V on your lift.
As Scotty used to say...."you can't change the laws of physics."








(Maybe your diagram is in error???







)

Bob


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

W4DRR said:


> I'm still not sold on the fact I don't have 12v's going to the lift.
> 
> I have the plug on the pos/neg....there by having both batteries connected.
> 
> I'll toss a meter on it tomorrow and find out for sure.


It is a given. *If* it is wired as you depicted it, then you only have 6V on your lift.
As Scotty used to say...."you can't change the laws of physics."








(Maybe your diagram is in error???







)

Bob
[/quote]

I'm getting the trailer tonight (from storage) and I will test this as soon as I can.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Happy to report you guys were RIGHT and I was wrong...

I now have the jack powered by a full 12 volts and WOW...it goes up/down much faster then before.

Thanks for pointing this out...I would have never found this out on my own, as it was working.

Here is the updated diagram.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

Good deal Jim!
Glad you got it sorted out.


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## W4DRR (May 17, 2005)

Great!








Actually, I'm surprised it even worked on only 6V.

Bob


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## ron4jon (Sep 26, 2005)

I was about to comment on the first version of the connection diagram but I see that that has been sorted out. We have a 28 FRLS 5er and I too plan on changing out the orginial 12v battery to two six volt batteries. My primarily concerns are (1) the best way to mount the second battery and (2) how to provide venting of battery fumes from the "second" 6v battery. This assumes that the "first 6v battery will be installed in the orginial battery box with it's vent tube routed to the propane compartment. I am considering using a black plastic marine battery box and modify it to include a vent tube roouted to the Porpane compartment (which is right beside the battery area) The entire propane compartment is sealed from the rest of the camper including the "underneath" storage area where the batteries are mounted. I have yet to come up with a way to mount this marine battery box in such a way that it will still be easy to access the 'first" battery box. I have not pruchased the batteries nor marine battery box yet so I don't know the dimensions and therefore know if the "second" battery will fit the the "recessed battery tray" but I this will work out OK. The owners that have a 28 FRLS know what I am trying to describe.

BTW, plastic "Marine battery boxes" have been and are still used in RVs but I think you all know what I mean. They have a cover that is almost like my existing battery box, plus they come with a strap-down lid.

Anyway, I would appreciate feed-back on my ideas to see if anyone has a better plan or forsees problems with my approach. Thanks....!


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## srjaynes (Feb 4, 2007)

You might want to consider 2 6-volt AGM (Absorbant Glass Mat) sealed batteries. They are not supposed to outgas. Both Tojan and Lifeline make good ones, but they are about 2x flooded lead acidy.

By the way, I believe the gas from batteries is mostly hydrogen, making a fire hazard, vs. a toxic hazard.



AlaskaOutbacker said:


> Hello All,
> 
> We finally got our new 2006 30 FRKS Outback delivered yesterday and are getting "up to speed" on all its features. Since the one 12-volt Group 24 battery that came with it was not going to be adequate for our dry camping needs, I bought two 6-volt batteries (220-amp hours) and will be installing them shortly. However, before I "re-invent the wheel" or encounter unexpected problems with this installation, I thought I would ask other 30 FRKS owners if they have done this type of battery conversion in the past and might be willing to offer any tips, suggestions and/or photographs on their installation.
> 
> ...


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