# Front Diamond Plate



## BAH

This is my first post. I have a 06 29 bhs with delamination problems on the front cap I have read all of the old posts. I am thinking about just putting light gage diamond plate over the entire front of the unit i think this would look good and solve the problem. As of today there are no cracking and no leaking. I have located sheets of plate 4'x 10' gage 22. One of my qustions is there anything under the skin to screw too. any commets would be a great help


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## deanintemp

I would think that there would be aluminum studs up front. Not sure if a stud finder would work, might be worth a try. I would first test it in a non-conspicuous area like beneath a bed or in a closet.


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## BoaterDan

deanintemp said:


> I would think that there would be aluminum studs up front. Not sure if a stud finder would work, might be worth a try. I would first test it in a non-conspicuous area like beneath a bed or in a closet.


I've used a studfinder on the interior walls with success, but I don't know if there's studs on that curved front. Anyone remember from the factory tour or maybe pics??


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## deanintemp

I am not 100% certain that there are studs up front but I can't see any other way to keep the curved shape without a welded structure. This link will take you to a brochure, page 5 kinda indicates welded aluminum structure in the front. Maybe you can call the factory or a dealer and ask for input.


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## thefulminator

Call customer service at Keystone. They might be able to give you a diagram.


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## BAH

thefulminator said:


> Call customer service at Keystone. They might be able to give you a diagram.


Well after 30 minutes on the phone with customer service. I think I will just fix this myself It took me 10 min's just to tell them that the structure is alum and not wood. After she found something that told her i was right. I was told that there are no drawing for the front wall there are just made. I am calling BS on that, there are drawing they just dont want to give them out because I am sure there are a lot of these problems out there. Someone does need to start a class action agaist them. There is something wrong with the design and they know it. I could tell I sure was not the frist she had talking to about this problem. I talked to a Rv body shop today and they do not see why it would not work and have done a lot of this for the lower half before when some thing has hit the front walls.

I will add pictures when it is complete. should be a fun little project but it should not be happening on a 4 year old trailer.


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## CamperAndy

There are studs that are run horizontally and there are 6 or 7 to make up the front. A stud finder works great if it has a metal setting but still good enough even if it doesn't.


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## BAH

CamperAndy said:


> There are studs that are run horizontally and there are 6 or 7 to make up the front. A stud finder works great if it has a metal setting but still good enough even if it doesn't.


Thanks I know they are there just have to find them. I did not know about stud finder with a metal setting i will go to HD today and look


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## wolverine

Has anyone thought of using King Starboard instead of using diamond plate to repair the front cap? It is made of marine grade plastic and it comes in 1/4"x60"x96" sheets and there are different colors of white you can order. I think that this would be a lifetime fix and would look nice.

http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/StarboardXL.aspx


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## Tangooutback

wolverine said:


> Has anyone thought of using King Starboard instead of using diamond plate to repair the front cap? It is made of marine grade plastic and it comes in 1/4"x60"x96" sheets and there are different colors of white you can order. I think that this would be a lifetime fix and would look nice.
> 
> http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/StarboardXL.aspx


That material looks promising for this particular application. I am thinking it would be great for replacing the funky rubber roof and roof deck if it can be welded together to make it seamless.


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## BAH

Tangooutback said:


> Has anyone thought of using King Starboard instead of using diamond plate to repair the front cap? It is made of marine grade plastic and it comes in 1/4"x60"x96" sheets and there are different colors of white you can order. I think that this would be a lifetime fix and would look nice.
> 
> http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/StarboardXL.aspx


That material looks promising for this particular application. I am thinking it would be great for replacing the funky rubber roof and roof deck if it can be welded together to make it seamless.
[/quote
The star board I have worked with is not bendable so for a cap it would be hard to use.


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## Tangooutback

BAH said:


> Has anyone thought of using King Starboard instead of using diamond plate to repair the front cap? It is made of marine grade plastic and it comes in 1/4"x60"x96" sheets and there are different colors of white you can order. I think that this would be a lifetime fix and would look nice.
> 
> http://www.kingstarboard.com/Products/StarboardXL.aspx


That material looks promising for this particular application. I am thinking it would be great for replacing the funky rubber roof and roof deck if it can be welded together to make it seamless.
[/quote
The star board I have worked with is not bendable so for a cap it would be hard to use.
[/quote]

On manufacturer website, it says you can bend it using a heat gun. You may have to cut shallow kerf if the curve is too abrupt.


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## BoaterDan

wolverine said:


> Has anyone thought of using King Starboard instead of using diamond plate to repair the front cap?


Here's my opinion... when making this kind of repair, you have to make it look like you're not just covering up something. Everybody accepts diamondplate on the front of RVs, and may manufacturers are doing it from the factory now. With this stuff, it likely wouldn't match the color exactly, and then it would end up looking like a piece of plastic used to cover something - ya know, kind of like the guy driving down the highway with the plastic and duct tape side window in his car.


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## Tangooutback

BoaterDan said:


> Has anyone thought of using King Starboard instead of using diamond plate to repair the front cap?


Here's my opinion... when making this kind of repair, you have to make it look like you're not just covering up something. Everybody accepts diamondplate on the front of RVs, and may manufacturers are doing it from the factory now. With this stuff, it likely wouldn't match the color exactly, and then it would end up looking like a piece of plastic used to cover something - ya know, kind of like the guy driving down the highway with the plastic and duct tape side window in his car.
[/quote]

In that case, 1/4" treated plywood, primed and painted to match would be cool.


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## hautevue

Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems to me that, since you plan to cover up the front end with something (diamond plate, etc.), you can just use a stud finder and drill holes to find and verify where the studs are. You'll have a lot of little holes, but so what?

Once you have all the studs located, transfer the stud lines to the sides of the TT with a string and chalk lines. To finish up, just squirt some sealant on the drill holes and bingo.

Since you don't care about the looks under the diamond plate, the little blips of silicone will not affect your resale value.


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## thefulminator

This might help you find the studs. I was talking to the service department at my dealer the other day about a problem with the grab handle they installed next to my entry door. I asked them how to find the studs. They said the best way they know how to do it is to wait until first thing in the morning. At that time, if you look at the trailer at an angle, you will be able to see condensation on the exterior every place there is metal under the skin provided it was not too warm the night before.


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## BAH

thefulminator said:


> This might help you find the studs. I was talking to the service department at my dealer the other day about a problem with the grab handle they installed next to my entry door. I asked them how to find the studs. They said the best way they know how to do it is to wait until first thing in the morning. At that time, if you look at the trailer at an angle, you will be able to see condensation on the exterior every place there is metal under the skin provided it was not too warm the night before.


Well that is funny because this morning I walked out and the studs were plan as day on the sides of the unit it looked like a picture of the side framing. But the front cap did not show anything I talked to a friend and he said just push on the cap and you can feel most of them and he is right. Between pushing and drilling a few holes I will find them. 
Thanks for the help


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## BoaterDan

Keep us posted on how this works out. Are you planning to just use stainless steel machine screws?

I'm very curious, as I may or may not have a slight hole in the front of my trailer from shooting a board out when trying to use it to get unstuck from the mud.


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## Tangooutback

How many extra pounds of weight do you add on if you diamond plate the entire front?


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## Nathan

BoaterDan said:


> Keep us posted on how this works out. Are you planning to just use stainless steel machine screws?
> 
> I'm very curious, as I may or may not have a slight hole in the front of my trailer from shooting a board out when trying to use it to get unstuck from the mud.












Sorry to hear that Dan!


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## K. Smith

BoaterDan said:


> Here's my opinion... when making this kind of repair, you have to make it look like you're not just covering up something.


Similarly, when you see a Jeep with diamond plate on the corners, it is pretty much always assumed they are covering up rust spots.


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## aplvlykat

Been there done that to my 25RSS. There are alum. studs but not enough or in the right places. When you remove the side corner moldings and the top overlap seal the whole front cap is simply held into place with staples. It comes off very easy. It took me and my son 2 hour to drop it. Try to locate a sheet metal company that sells bulk alum. sheeting direct to the public. They should also have a fab. shop, most do. I had my new front cap made in three parts, made out of thin alum. flat stock. The reason for three sections is a Outback measures 8' from side to side, so a 4x8 panel will fit without cutting but it takes three sections from top to bottom. I had to make a template for the top bend and center bend. I overlapped, sealed and screwed them into place. I also had to paint two of the sections with automotive spray paint single process white paint. The third panel was diamond plate. You will find batt fiberglass insolation under the front. Think about replacing it with foam board and sealing it into place with expandable spray foam. This will make for great backing support, sound control and added insolation in the front. It will also take all the deflection out of the wall paneling on the inside. I simply added extra 1" alum studs under the seams and riveted them into place where ever I needed them, I think I used two. I don't remember the exact cost but it was right around 800-1000 dollars. I took my time and I think the whole project from start to finish lasted about 20 hours on and off during the week. It added very little extra weight, a couple of pounds and has held up great and looks great. Sound like you are on the right track but don't cover it remove the front and replace it. Good luck with your project. Kirk


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## BoaterDan

If you're doing it for cosmetic reasons (looks or uh... a small hole), and not structural (delamination), is there a reason you couldn't or shouldn't just screw a piece over the existing cover. I'm thinking even just butting up to the corner molding rather than removing that.

I'm thinking like $75 and a couple of hours.

Yes, no, maybe so?


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## kmsjs

BoaterDan said:


> If you're doing it for cosmetic reasons (looks or uh... a small hole), and not structural (delamination), is there a reason you couldn't or shouldn't just screw a piece over the existing cover. I'm thinking even just butting up to the corner molding rather than removing that.
> 
> I'm thinking like $75 and a couple of hours.
> 
> Yes, no, maybe so?


I put a small hole in the front of mu OB also. It was about 1/4" x 2". I went to a small RV place, and they were able to fill it in with a hard epoxy that covers the outside of truck caps. It cost $50 in labor (Material was free, as they used leftover), and about 2 hours. It is a different color of "white", but the dealer wanted $500. This worked much better for me. I will try to remember the name of the product, or call the RV shop tomorrow. It was something that I have heard of, but I can't remember now.


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## kmsjs

kmsjs said:


> If you're doing it for cosmetic reasons (looks or uh... a small hole), and not structural (delamination), is there a reason you couldn't or shouldn't just screw a piece over the existing cover. I'm thinking even just butting up to the corner molding rather than removing that.
> 
> I'm thinking like $75 and a couple of hours.
> 
> Yes, no, maybe so?


I put a small hole in the front of mu OB also. It was about 1/4" x 2". I went to a small RV place, and they were able to fill it in with a hard epoxy that covers the outside of truck caps. It cost $50 in labor (Material was free, as they used leftover), and about 2 hours. It is a different color of "white", but the dealer wanted $500. This worked much better for me. I will try to remember the name of the product, or call the RV shop tomorrow. It was something that I have heard of, but I can't remember now.
[/quote]

GelCoat. That is what it was called!


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## BAH

aplvlykat said:


> Been there done that to my 25RSS. There are alum. studs but not enough or in the right places. When you remove the side corner moldings and the top overlap seal the whole front cap is simply held into place with staples. It comes off very easy. It took me and my son 2 hour to drop it. Try to locate a sheet metal company that sells bulk alum. sheeting direct to the public. They should also have a fab. shop, most do. I had my new front cap made in three parts, made out of thin alum. flat stock. The reason for three sections is a Outback measures 8' from side to side, so a 4x8 panel will fit without cutting but it takes three sections from top to bottom. I had to make a template for the top bend and center bend. I overlapped, sealed and screwed them into place. I also had to paint two of the sections with automotive spray paint single process white paint. The third panel was diamond plate. You will find batt fiberglass insolation under the front. Think about replacing it with foam board and sealing it into place with expandable spray foam. This will make for great backing support, sound control and added insolation in the front. It will also take all the deflection out of the wall paneling on the inside. I simply added extra 1" alum studs under the seams and riveted them into place where ever I needed them, I think I used two. I don't remember the exact cost but it was right around 800-1000 dollars. I took my time and I think the whole project from start to finish lasted about 20 hours on and off during the week. It added very little extra weight, a couple of pounds and has held up great and looks great. Sound like you are on the right track but don't cover it remove the front and replace it. Good luck with your project. Kirk


Ok someone has done this do you remember what gage alum sheets you used. how did you bend them over the template. The block foam sounds like a good idea did you just foam it even with the studs or did you foam it as you moved up or down.


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## BoaterDan

kmsjs said:


> GelCoat. That is what it was called!


Yeah, I know I could do a glass repair on it, but it will likely never match the color, even if a dealer does it. I would think the dealer would just recommend the diamond plate for that reason.

The question for me is whether to make an insurance claim. If I don't, then I'm looking for a fairly cheap option that doesn't leave an obvious sign of a repair.


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## kmsjs

BoaterDan said:


> GelCoat. That is what it was called!


Yeah, I know I could do a glass repair on it, but it will likely never match the color, even if a dealer does it. I would think the dealer would just recommend the diamond plate for that reason.

The question for me is whether to make an insurance claim. If I don't, then I'm looking for a fairly cheap option that doesn't leave an obvious sign of a repair.
[/quote]

When I first posted that I put a hole in the OB, someone on here recommended a do it yourself repair and an Outbackers sticker. I got to thinking that I could use this opportunity to put all of the stickers up front:  Good Sam, AAA, Jelleystone, KOA...


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## hall

aplvlykat said:


> Been there done that to my 25RSS. There are alum. studs but not enough or in the right places. When you remove the side corner moldings and the top overlap seal the whole front cap is simply held into place with staples. It comes off very easy. It took me and my son 2 hour to drop it. Try to locate a sheet metal company that sells bulk alum. sheeting direct to the public. They should also have a fab. shop, most do. I had my new front cap made in three parts, made out of thin alum. flat stock. The reason for three sections is a Outback measures 8' from side to side, so a 4x8 panel will fit without cutting but it takes three sections from top to bottom. I had to make a template for the top bend and center bend. I overlapped, sealed and screwed them into place. I also had to paint two of the sections with automotive spray paint single process white paint. The third panel was diamond plate. You will find batt fiberglass insolation under the front. Think about replacing it with foam board and sealing it into place with expandable spray foam. This will make for great backing support, sound control and added insolation in the front. It will also take all the deflection out of the wall paneling on the inside. I simply added extra 1" alum studs under the seams and riveted them into place where ever I needed them, I think I used two. I don't remember the exact cost but it was right around 800-1000 dollars. I took my time and I think the whole project from start to finish lasted about 20 hours on and off during the week. It added very little extra weight, a couple of pounds and has held up great and looks great. Sound like you are on the right track but don't cover it remove the front and replace it. Good luck with your project. Kirk


Hello Kirk.

Ive been reading your post with interest as I also own a 25rss with front cap delamination. Would you be able to post any photographs of your repair or email them to me at [email protected] Many thanks.

Steve Hall.


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## kikazlx

hall said:


> Been there done that to my 25RSS. There are alum. studs but not enough or in the right places. When you remove the side corner moldings and the top overlap seal the whole front cap is simply held into place with staples. It comes off very easy. It took me and my son 2 hour to drop it. Try to locate a sheet metal company that sells bulk alum. sheeting direct to the public. They should also have a fab. shop, most do. I had my new front cap made in three parts, made out of thin alum. flat stock. The reason for three sections is a Outback measures 8' from side to side, so a 4x8 panel will fit without cutting but it takes three sections from top to bottom. I had to make a template for the top bend and center bend. I overlapped, sealed and screwed them into place. I also had to paint two of the sections with automotive spray paint single process white paint. The third panel was diamond plate. You will find batt fiberglass insolation under the front. Think about replacing it with foam board and sealing it into place with expandable spray foam. This will make for great backing support, sound control and added insolation in the front. It will also take all the deflection out of the wall paneling on the inside. I simply added extra 1" alum studs under the seams and riveted them into place where ever I needed them, I think I used two. I don't remember the exact cost but it was right around 800-1000 dollars. I took my time and I think the whole project from start to finish lasted about 20 hours on and off during the week. It added very little extra weight, a couple of pounds and has held up great and looks great. Sound like you are on the right track but don't cover it remove the front and replace it. Good luck with your project. Kirk


Hello Kirk.

Ive been reading your post with interest as I also own a 25rss with front cap delamination. Would you be able to post any photographs of your repair or email them to me at [email protected] Many thanks.

Steve Hall.
[/quote]

I would like to see pics to if you have any.


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## aplvlykat

If you are interested in replacing your front cap look in the outback modification gallery on page 20 and 21. good luck


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## Jack from Oregon

Interesting topic folks. We are taking delivery of a 2012 210RS (White Cap, not brown) and I'm thinking about preventative measures. We'll be using this rig mostly dry camping on gravel roads in the National Forests and BLM areas...read a lot of gravel being picked up and thrown by the rear pickup tires (BF Goodrich All Terrains). Even with mud guards, rocks do fly! Has anyone thought of, or tried going with a spray on bed liner? I've had great success with a local (Bend, Oregon) RV repair shop repairing the roof of our Evolution 3 Tent Trailer using this method. The new liner blends can duplicate almost any existing shade of color...think about a 2-2 1/2' high coating from the base of the front cap. Talk about "bullet proof". Thoughts?

Jack


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## clarkely

Jack from Oregon said:


> Interesting topic folks. We are taking delivery of a 2012 210RS (White Cap, not brown) and I'm thinking about preventative measures. We'll be using this rig mostly dry camping on gravel roads in the National Forests and BLM areas...read a lot of gravel being picked up and thrown by the rear pickup tires (BF Goodrich All Terrains). Even with mud guards, rocks do fly! Has anyone thought of, or tried going with a spray on bed liner? I've had great success with a local (Bend, Oregon) RV repair shop repairing the roof of our Evolution 3 Tent Trailer using this method. The new liner blends can duplicate almost any existing shade of color...think about a 2-2 1/2' high coating from the base of the front cap. Talk about "bullet proof". Thoughts?
> 
> Jack


I think Line X is a great idea


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## Jewellfamily

I ran into a guy at a gas station heading camping one time that had an older smaller elk camp rig (think late 70's, early 80's) small single axle job that he had masked off the doors and windows and coated the whole thing (except the roof) in yellow Rhino liner. It looked "ok" but he said it worked fantastic when he was dragging it through the sticks to set up. Would probably work great as a lower front gravel guard.


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## TwoElkhounds

BoaterDan said:


> I would think that there would be aluminum studs up front. Not sure if a stud finder would work, might be worth a try. I would first test it in a non-conspicuous area like beneath a bed or in a closet.


I've used a studfinder on the interior walls with success, but I don't know if there's studs on that curved front. Anyone remember from the factory tour or maybe pics??
[/quote]

Here is a picture of the front from the tour this past summer.










DAN


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## TwoElkhounds

BoaterDan said:


> Keep us posted on how this works out. Are you planning to just use stainless steel machine screws?
> 
> I'm very curious, as I may or may not have a slight hole in the front of my trailer from shooting a board out when trying to use it to get unstuck from the mud.


I had a contruction marker shoot out and it punched a hole in my trailer a few years back. The hole was a couple inches in size and was near the propane covers. I bought a propane warning sticker from Keystone, cost about $15 as I recall. I purchased a fiberglass repair kit and filled the hole, being careful not to go beyond the limits of the sticker. After a few coats and some sanding, I covered the patch with the propane sticker. Looks completely natural since the sticker looks like it belongs there (next to the propane tanks). The size and location of the hole is really what matters for this type of repair.

DAN


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