# Blowing Out The Water System ....



## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

I did a search on blowing out the lines vs. the anti-freeze method.
I didnâ€™t really find what I was looking for.









My question isâ€¦ Does anyone blow out there water system?
What are your steps for doing this?

Our water pump is in a little â€œcubbyâ€ area next to the front queen bed (27RSDS)â€¦
could I just pack insulation around it to keep it from winter damage?








(In our pop-up, that is all we did was blow out the linesâ€¦This is a much bigger system and I donâ€™t want to ruin anything.)

Any thoughts or experience would be appreciated.
I just canâ€™t stomach the idea of putting anti-freeze in my water system.









Thanks, sunny 
MaeJae


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

You can get an adapter to connect an air hose to the City water connection. Set the Air compressor for 45 psi.

To blow out the system it is easiest with 2 people. One holding the air connection on the outside and one burping the faucets and other water outlets in the trailer. You repeat this until the only thing that comes out is air.

Dont forget the outside shower.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

The only hard thing to get ALL the water out of when blowing is the toilet. Drops here or there freezing will not do damage. The only problems I have seen people encounter is the toilet. You could run antifreeze in system then blow all of it out if you do not want it in the lines all winter. Blowing out completly dry is almost impossible and gravity will allow any remaining to go to a low point.

John


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## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

Thanks for the quick replyâ€¦ but my major concern is putting anti-freeze in the water system for even one second.








I would like to skip this all together.

Does any one use just the air method? Or is the water system to big (too long of a distance in the length of water line) to do this efficiently?

Thanks, sunny 
MaeJae


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

I have not used a compressor yet (I'm in the process of buying one), but I winter camp all the time and I plan to blow out the lines after each trip. In my old TT I just opened all the drains before I broke camp and let gravity do its thing on the way home - up an down the hills. I also put antifreeze in the black and gray tanks and, of course, in all the traps - don't forget the shower. I never had a problem, but I know I was living dangerously. I don't plan to live dangerously with the Outback - since I'll never be able to afford another trailer - EVER! College is just around the corner for my eldest.









I've researched the air thing and I'm sure I'll be fine as long as I'm vigilant. I don't put antifreeze in my water system because I use it too much and would have to de-winterize every month. I'm also planning on making a little, insulated, waterproof sock to tie around my fresh water drain and my low point drains to help keep them from freezing. I'll either rig up a draw string or put snaps in them and the underbelly so I can easily remove them for draining. I may even wrap them with 12 volt heat tape, which is what I did with the fresh water lines in the Layton.

I just keep a watchful eye on everything and so far, have had no problems. I expect that with the heated underbelly (I know it's not a four season camper) and the air compressor, I will have it even easier than in the Layton. I'm also going to drop the underbelly and cut a vent into the heat duct so the heat in the underbelly is more than just radiant heat. I just have to work some things out in my mind before I undertake that. I'll post mod pictures when I do.

Scott


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

I'll stick with using the antifreeze.









Don


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

MaeJae said:


> Thanks for the quick replyâ€¦ but my major concern is putting anti-freeze in the water system for even one second.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Don't take this the wrong way, but did you know the antifreeze for RV's is different then auto antifreeze?

The RV stuff is pink and it is drinkable. Now I would go chucking some just for the heck of it, (







) but it's very safe.


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## dougdogs (Jul 31, 2004)

Moosegut said:


> In my old TT I just opened all the drains before I broke camp and let gravity do its thing on the way home - up an down the hills. Scott
> [snapback]60133[/snapback]​


Ohh. . . so that was you I was driving behind on route 80
















Thanks for freezing my windshield!!

Just kidding !! action


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

dougdogs said:


> Moosegut said:
> 
> 
> > Â In my old TT I just opened all the drains before I broke camp and let gravity do its thing on the way home - up an down the hills. Scott
> ...










shy It might have been. I thought I heard someone blowing the horn and cursing.


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## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

Oregon_Camper said:


> MaeJae said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the quick replyâ€¦ but my major concern is putting anti-freeze in the water system for even one second.Â Â
> ...


No offence takenâ€¦yes, I do realize that it is not the same as auto anti-freeze. 
A lot of things â€œseemâ€ safe until a generation later whenâ€¦oops, I guess that wasnâ€™t really safe. 
What is it made of? What keeps it from freezing? 
I would just like to avoid it if I can.

Thank you,
MaeJae


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

I use the antifreeze and flush out good in the spring. Drinkable? No thanks, if it kills my lawn as everyone says, I ll pass.

But, I also use bottled water for cooking and drinking.

John


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

Wow! This compressed air vs. anti-freeze debate is almost as good as a Ford vs. Chevy argument (which, BTW, is quite entertaining for us Titan owners!







).

I'm with MaeJae, I am not keen on the idea of introducing chemicals into my fresh water system. I hate even doing the bleach routine to sanitize, but know I must.

On the other hand, it seems that the compressed air method can't be counted on to do a thorough job either.

I know we have had this discussion before, and I am going to have to winterize soon, but I still can't decide which way is best. So, allow me to ask a stupid question: If I do winterize with anti-freeze, what is the procedure for flushing that out in the Spring?

I'm also with John, we use bottled water for drinking and cooking as much as possible. But you still need the fresh water system for cleaning food, washing hands, etc.

Thanks, and...

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## Kenstand (Mar 25, 2004)

> So, allow me to ask a stupid question: If I do winterize with anti-freeze, what is the procedure for flushing that out in the Spring?


I would just flush and sanitize at the same time. You can simply run water through the city water inlet or fill the fresh water tank and turn on the pump to run water through the system. Either way just open up the spigets and let the water flow. This should provide a thorough flushing of the anti-freeze.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

We use antifreeze method.

The compressed air method just won't get all the water out...and if it doesn't, there's no way to know it...until it's too late.

I've seen far too many people replacing plumbing lines/fittings.
Of course...Mother Nature is much easier on other places in the winter. (like Siberia!)

I wouldn't drink the pink stuff. I will kill your grass.
I also sanitize and flush the system very well after use.

PS...I never drink from the system either.


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

In the Spring when you de-winterize with bleach and baking soda, all traces of the pink stuff will be eliminated, so no worries about that.

Randy


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

> Wow! This compressed air vs. anti-freeze debate is almost as good as a Ford vs. Chevy argument (which, BTW, is quite entertaining for us Titan owners!


Hmmm. Then how do you explain those of us who use both methods? I blow out the lines first, then add the antifreeze.

On the antifreeze note, if you are going to go that route, make sure the container says RV/Marine Antifreeze, and don't just go by the color. Automotive antifreeze now comes in a variety of colors, including pink.

Here are the MSDS's for both RV (propylene Glycol) and automotive (ethylene glycol) antifreeze.

Propylene Glycol

Ethylene Glycol

Enjoy, and be safe.

Tim


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> I'm with MaeJae, I am not keen on the idea of introducing chemicals into my fresh water system. I hate even doing the bleach routine to sanitize, but know I must.
> If I do winterize with anti-freeze, what is the procedure for flushing that out in the Spring?
> [snapback]60306[/snapback]​


Now ya see? This is why I winter camp. When all my tanks and lines freeze, the ice knocks all those nasty little germs, mold spores and mildews off the sides of the lines and tanks. Then when it melts, I just turn on the faucet and it all runs out. No muss, no fuss.























Scott


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## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

tdvffjohn said:


> I use the antifreeze and flush out good in the spring. Drinkable? No thanks, if it kills my lawn as everyone says, I ll pass.
> 
> But, I also use bottled water for cooking and drinking.
> 
> ...


We use our water for drinking and cookingâ€¦ although we do bring bottled water for the majority of our water, we do drink(sip) the water from the tap. A couple of days before we leave for a trip I rinse out the fresh water tank(fill it up and drain twice, running it through the system too) also, we do â€œsanitizeâ€ on a regular basis during the camping months.
I feel a whole other discussion coming onâ€¦ to drink or not to drinkâ€¦
 








When we get to a park we use a filter for both filling the tank or using city water connections.

I think I will take my chances with the blowing out mehtod...

Thanks for your input, sunny 
MaeJae


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## Castle Rock Outbackers (Jan 18, 2004)

Just remember...RV antifreeze also keeps holding tank drain valve seals wet and lubed while your unit is sitting dormant. That's a big plus in my book.

Randy


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## cookie9933 (Feb 26, 2005)

MaeJae wrote: "I rinse out the fresh water tank(fill it up and drain twice, running it through the system too) also, we do â€œsanitizeâ€ on a regular basis during the camping months."

Unless you "sanitize" with a suitable disinfectant such as bleach, you will still have some of whatever bacteria may be in your system. Rinsing or flushing is not as effective as disinfection.

However flushing *is *the way to eliminate chemical contamination, whether it's antifreeze or bleach. True, there will always be a small residual of antifreeze or bleach after thorough flushing, but such a small concentration is essentially harmless. Not the same can be said with leaving in bacteria because those guys multiply. A few drops of antifreeze or bleach that may remain (diluted in 35 gallons of water) does NOT multiply.

Here's to your health.

Bill


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## MaeJae (May 12, 2005)

PDX_Doug said: "I'm with MaeJae, I am not keen on the idea of introducing chemicals into my fresh water system. I hate even doing the bleach routine to sanitize, but know I must."

Yes, I do sanitize/disinfect in the proper manorâ€¦ shy ... but MUST I use anti-freeze? ... that is the question. We never used anti-freeze with our pop-up and we did have one fitting at the sink faucet go..(so we replaced both) and never had another problem. (We were thinking it was the cheap fitting from the factory)

Wow what a great topic...









MaeJae action


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## Big Iron (Jan 16, 2005)

For the record, the below item was copied from the federal mandated MSDS sheets. Just about all MFG's of RV anti-freeze have the same info.

SECTION VI - Health Hazard Data 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Route of Entry: Skin.................... NO 
Route of Entry: Ingestion............... NO 
Route of Entry: Inhalation.............. NON 
Health Hazards - Acute and Chronic...... CONTACT, INHAL, INGEST: NO SIGNIFICANT ADVERSE EFFECTS EXPECTED. 
Symptoms of Overexposure................ THIS PRODUCT IS NOT EXPECTED TO PRESENT ANY HAZARD WHICH WOULD REQUIRE FIRST AID TREATMENT.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Big Iron said:


> For the record, the below item was copied from the federal mandated MSDS sheets. Just about all MFG's of RV anti-freeze have the same info.
> 
> SECTION VI - Health Hazard Data
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ...


I wonder who the FEDS got to drink the anti-freeze during testing???









The FEDS also told me my ASBESTOS fire gear was safe, that the HALON 1211 in the fire extinguishers was OK for me to breathe...

Hey, AGENT ORANGE wasn't causing anyone any problems, and FEMA's response to KATRINA was perfectly fine, and...

OK, I think you get MY HUMBLE OPINION of the matter.









Working for the FEDS for 23 years has taught me one thing for sure...
I'm not going to water my lawn with RV Anti-freeze!


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

PDX_Doug said:


> Wow! This compressed air vs. anti-freeze debate is almost as good as a Ford vs. Chevy argument (which, BTW, is quite entertaining for us Titan owners!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Doug...if you want some help with this give me a shout...it will take us about 15 minutes. This includes installing the bypass switch for the water pump.

I got all the stuff from Curtis for under $20.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Someone explain to me the compressed air method and then running antifreeze through the system. What the heck is the point with the air?
The anitfreeze displaces every square inch of water as it goes through.

I'm puzzled.


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## Devildog (Sep 8, 2005)

Nice lawn Jolly! I used the air compressor in my last TT, have not decided which route to go this winter with the Outback until you all make my mind up!

I have thought about doing the so-called "by-pass" method of pumping the antifreeze in, which does not matter to me either way, I always use bottled water for drinking.

By the way, I had no problems when I did the air method, only reason I am thinking antifreeze this time around is so I can say I have done a MOD on my Outback!


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

All winterized. Used 3 gallons. Took one hour.

Went to Sears hardware, purchased 1 ft of 1/2 plastic hose, a reducer from 1/2 to 1/4 and 3 ft of 1/4 in hose. Cost 4.20. Removed hose from tank supply side of pump and connected my hose set up. Drained low point at caps and recapped. Inserted hose into bottle, switched over bypass and turned on pump. Used 1 1/2 gal on lines. 1/2 gallon into traps. Drained hot water heater, put plug back in, switched bypass back to normal and pumped one gal into hot water heater. Removed plug again and drained.

Just a note to 'new campers' do not forget to remove items in trailer that could freeze and burst. Detergent, mouthwash, black tank chemicals (think it will) soda or beer you stored under the bench, etc. Leave fridge and freezer doors open ( I put a pillow in each so it will not close.)

Nighty night Outback









John


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## huntr70 (Jul 8, 2005)

tdvffjohn said:


> Drained hot water heater, put plug back in, switched bypass back to normal and pumped one gal into hot water heater. Removed plug again and drained.
> 
> [snapback]61553[/snapback]​


Just curious...just everyone put antifreeze into their hot water heater??

I just drained mine and left the plug out, then switched the bypass and put the antifreeze through the rest of the system.

Is it best to put antifreeze into the water heater??

Steve


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## CamperDC (Oct 30, 2003)

Steve,

I use the same procedure you use.. I thought I read somewhere that you were not supposed to put the antifreeze in the water heater but I am not sure where.

There will be a little water left in the tank once it is drained, but it will not be problem during the winter. I have winterized twice now and have not had any issues.

DC


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

huntr70 said:


> tdvffjohn said:
> 
> 
> > Drained hot water heater, put plug back in, switched bypass back to normal and pumped one gal into hot water heater. Removed plug again and drained.
> ...


I won't put antifreeze in the WH, takes too long to get the taste out of the water IMHO.


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## ron4jon (Sep 26, 2005)

I just completed the winterization of my 28FRLS for the first time. I had trouble finding the right combination of pipefittings and matching hose to go into the jug of antifreeze, plus getting to the pump inlet fitting in the first place. So, I thought that while I was at this task I might as well make it a lot easier and faster the next time. I bought two valves, one â€œTâ€, four threaded couplings, and several hose clamps, plus a 10 foot length of Â½ inch ID reinforced hose that matched the existing water hoses. All fittings except the valves were for Â½ inch ID hose. The valves are white PVC with a red handle that only rotates 90 degrees.
Installation:
Step 1: After disconnecting the city water hose from the pump inlet, connect valve #1 to the end of this hose.
Step 2: Next, connect a two inch long hose between valve #1 and the â€œTâ€.
Step 3: Connect a new length of hose about one foot long between the other side of the â€œTâ€ and the pump inlet connection. 
Step 4: Next, connect a two inch long hose between the middle junction of the â€œTâ€ and valve #2. 
Step 5: Finally, connect an approximately 6 foot long hose to the other end of valve #2 and then insert the other end of this end this hose into the jug of antifreeze. The hose length is actually determined by the distance from valve #2 to the ground. This is because you will probably want the jug of antifreeze to be on the ground instead of inside your RV somewhere where a spill could occur.
Operating instructions: 
Step 1: The water Pump must be OFF (initially) and the source of city water, of course, must NOT be connected to the RV. Also, the hot water heater must be drained and by-passed.
Step 2: Close Valve #1 and Open valve #2. 
Step 3: With the hose from valve #2 inserted into the jug of antifreeze, turn pump ON.
Step 4: One at a time, turn every water outlet ON until antifreeze flows out with no air bubbles. I had to start a second gallon of antifreeze about 2/3rd of the way through all water outlet purges with antifreeze. Your RVâ€™s hose length and number of outlets will determine how much you will need. Donâ€™t forget to purge outside shower heads!
Step 5: You must also purge the RVâ€™s water inlet hose and replace with antifreeze using a somewhat different method. Follow the instructions for this procedure found on other Web sites such as http://rvtravel.com/publish/rvwinterizing.shtml (7th paragraph from top). Basically, you remove the screen in the outside city water inlet coupling, and depress the center of the reverse-flow valve just inside until antifreeze appears with no air bubbles. Then, replace the screen and protective cap. 
Step 6: Donâ€™t forget to add some antifreeze to each P trap and holding tanks.
Step 7:When winterization is complete; return valve #1 ON and valve #2 OFF. Drain antifreeze inlet hose and store while still connected to valve #2.

Even with this Winterization modification, I believe it will still take me approximately 30 minutes to an hour to fully complete the procedure. I used to have a large Class C motorhome and a Coleman popup. I used the air purge method on the MH and antifreeze on the popup because I lost a water valve once due to freeze up and it burst! Repair was approximately $50 just for the replacement assembly and I installed it myself. My RV dealership will not use any other method other than antifreeze. Just like my dealership, I am convinced that dealing with Antifreeze winterization and then flush-out is a â€œgivenâ€ with RV ownership.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Just by pass the water heater and you don't need to put antifreeze in it.
I leave the plug out over the winter. (I stuff a chunk of screening in the hole to keep out any critters)


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