# Wanting To "add Optional Heat Strip" To A/c Unit



## Little_Country_Gal

Anybody added the "optional heat strip" to the A/C unit?
Anybody know which one I need to buy?

Our little 210 is currently "camping" at Canaan Valley,WV Ski Resort's campground for the winter. Monthly "Storage fees" are only slightly more than 1 night's stay at the lodge, and we can leave her plugged in and "camp" in it as much as we want. Since our whole family is a bunch of ski-junkies, we decided to give it a try. I thought that we must be crazy, but we pulled in on opening weekend of ski-season in over 18" of snow to find lots of other crazy people in the campground as well, including 3 sites occupied by TENTS, and several others with just cars! Suddenly I'm looking sane! (Or perhaps sanity is just relative, and it's all about the company you keep!)

We're winterized, and just dry camping, but only a short distance from the shower house. The camper's shower/tub is currently functioning nicely as a ski equipment closet







We were there for almost 1 week, and temps never got above freezing, stayed in the teens at night, and the wind chill was brutal at times. Needless to say that we went through a fresh tank of propane in 5 days, and everybody now has electric blankets on the beds and an extra electric throw for warming those little tootsies in the dining/living area. When we finally pulled out, there were still icicles on the walls behind pillows/mattresses/etc. Yea it's cold baby! Had a great time, going back up next weekend!

While we were there, we tried to seal things up a bit more, and ran across the "install optional heat strip here" sticker inside the roof A/C. There were wires hanging down, so I guess it's pre-wired. Sounds good to me! Where do I get one?

I'm thinking this might be the best route and here is my reasoning:
1. It's cold up there! Way below the efficient operating range of anything "heat-pump" related.
2. Propane comes out of my wallet, electricity is on the campground (no extra charge).
3. 4 people (and sometimes 2 big dogs) in a little 210rs doesn't leave much floor space for a ceramic floor heater. or otherwords: kids+dogs+small camper+floor heater=recipe for disaster
4. Can't really find a good place for a wall-mount heater either.

Any thoughts?
Anybody else done this before?
Since the little OB is currently "skiing" (as is all of her manuals), I'm not sure which A/C unit she actually has installed. Anybody know?

Thanks!


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## Dale

Yes I just did the installation on my new unit and have used the heat strip for 10 years in my previous unit. Be warned that there is a lot of strong opinions on whether the cost is worth it. Biggest reason folks vote against it is the heat output is limited to what you get out of any low cost 1500w heater available everywhere. I like it for the following reasons:


It is installed into the AC unit out of sight, no trip hazards, no burning the dog or ignition sources to be concerned with
It is thermostatically controlled (but need the right thermostat as well) and maintains the interior temperature unless it drops more than 5 degrees below the set temperature (meaning it can not keep up with the heat loss) whereby it will turn on the gas heater until temp is satisfied. It automatically reverts back to electric when satisfied and the cycle continues.
I like the fact that the heat distribution uses the existing ducting so it is evenly distributed in the trailer (note it feels cooler than a portable heater because the heat is dispersed by the high air flow, but it is same BTU output as the portable units regardless)
I like running the fan anyway - especially at night for white noise so I do not notice someone using the bath or kitchen as easily. 

Now I recommend you call the AC manufacturer and they are very eager to help. Assuming it is Coleman (manufactured by Airxcel) - the phone number is 316-832-4857 and I spoke with Eric who was very knowledgeable. I had the same sticker on my unit, so I assume you have the ability to upgrade to the heat strip. The first thing to do is get the model number off the AC control box which should be visible in the same area you saw the sticker. It is an 8 digit number affixed to the control box (where all the wires attach). Will also need to know what model thermostat you have and that is available on the back as a RVP# (need to remove it from wall to read that). These will determine what parts are needed other than the heat strip. Next issue is whether you have a spare wire available from the thermostat back to the AC control unit. I had a cable with 3 extra wires and I suspect you would too. You need the spare wire to hook up the new thermostat which has one extra terminal for the heat strip control. Finally, call the manufacturer and they will tell you on the spot what you need.

It sounds complicated, but I have done this twice and it is fairly easy even with limited electrical knowledge:

Here are the part numbers I ordered from Camping World and completed the job in less than one hour:

Heat/Cool control kit with heat strip #9330A755 for $95, Digital thermostat #8530A3451 for $62

As you can see, if you need all these parts, the cost is much more than a cube heater, but I wanted it nevertheless and love it.


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## KTMRacer

I have one installed on my smaller trailer with the non ducted Coleman Polar cub A/C unit. Does work once the temp is up, but like others have mentioned, it's only about 1500 watts so it doesn't raise the temp very fast.

I'm with Dale on the advantages. But I ran into a dead end when I called Coleman to get info on if it could be installed on the ducted air in our new 295RE. 
after calling two CW stores who gave conflicting info, I called Airxcel. Asked them if it could be installed on ducted air units. They said absolutely NOT to an aftermarket install. (In conflict to the info Dale got and the sticker in the unit) They said It can be done at the factory, but to install it into an existing ducted unit requires a whole new control unit and I would need to buy all the pieces seperately. May have to give them a call again! Mine had the "install heat strip here, but no wires hanging down). Guess I'll check into the PN's Dale listed.

Dale, when was the last time you installed a system?? CW doesn't show either part number listed as available.


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## Dale

I have a 295RE. Sounds like you had bad advise because I had no problems. If you look up into the unit from the air filter opening with a flash light, you will see the control box unit and all the wires. It is above and opposite side from the "install heat strip sticker here". I would call the number listed above at Airexcel (Coleman) and speak with Eric who is the RV expert of the manufacturer of the AC unit supplied on the Outback. He was very familiar with what they install on Outback units and I also purchased the compressor easy start capacitor which the unit is not equipped with. As I pointed out, you will need a new control box kit that includes the heat strip which installed with two wing nuts. All the wires plug in and out easily. Secondly need that new thermostat. The hardest part is stripping the little wires and splicing in an extension to hook up to the control box and thermostat.. The new thermostat is designed to work with electric or gas heat selections. I was a bit nervous it would all work out, but it was easy to do and I really like the way it works to supplement the heat but backed up by the furnace if it can not keep up.


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## Little_Country_Gal

Great to know it has been done! That sounds like a perfect configuration for us. We were burning through a lot of propane while we were away during the day (even though we turned the thermostat way down). Even if the "cool" air is too much during the evenings, we could always go back to propane during those times. It sounds just fine for nights and when we are away during the days.

I had wondered about the controller as well. Good to know ahead of time that I'll need to replace it too.

The costs are within the range that I expected. Even though a floor heater would cost significantly less, I agree with you guys that it's just not worth the other risks especially since we're tight on floor space and heavy on the dog/kids variables.

I finally found that little piece of paper that I scrawled the numbers from the A/C on. Looks like I have model# 8333E8564, serial# 120908577 and I guess the third number must be the part that I need 8330B633? I have no idea what thermostat I have, but I doubt that it will do. Hopefully I can just get a replacement for it.

It looks like you have the 9000 series, and I must have the 8000 series?
The only part I see on CampingWorld.com is Mfg Part #: 9330A6151. I'm wondering if that is just a replacement heat strip (without the control kit) for the 9000 series? I don't see the #9330A755 listed anywhere online, nor do I see any thermostats. I'm going to try making some calls tomorrow. Thanks for the #s!

I'm hoping to be able to locate all of the parts in the next week or so. We'll be heading back up over our self-extended MLK weekend, and I will have some time to work on it then.

Thanks for the scoop, I'll keep ya posted!
-Renee


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## Dub

I installed one in my Fun Finder and I don't think it did nearly as good of a job as my ceramic electric heater which you could touch when on and not get burned. I kept it plugged in on the kitchen counter in oscillate mode and it was out of the way and used "their" energy (electric was included) instead of my propane. It could never warm up the camper from a cold start, always had to use the furnace. My thought is that the heat strip was designed for people in Florida when the temp dips to the 40's and 50's for the night. I ended up buying a Big Buddy Catalytic Propane heater and mounting it on the wall. It uses almost all of the available energy in propane vs. the furnace which pours out a ton of heat through the exhaust. It was about $100 and dollar for dollar I think it was a way better investment than the heat strip. It also uses way less propane than the furnace. I'm considering getting another for my outback. I'm also considering adding a 20A outlet and a second power plug outside the camper to power a second electric heater. I've never been to a campground with 30A service that didn't have a 20A outlet besides the 30A outlet.


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## Dale

The parts needed were specified to me by Airexcel (Coleman). They would not sell direct and advised to call any RV dealer or Camping World. I called CW parts and gave them the numbers I was given and they confirmed a price as I held on the phone. The parts were not visible on the normal website. Mine was a Coleman 8000 series unit. To get the thermostat number, you have to remove the cover and unscrew the two mounting screws. Unless your thermostat has an electric heat switch on the front, you will need a new unit so probably not necessary to figure out what you have. What is most important is to remove it from the wall and confirm you have a spare wire to use. You may have to pull the wire out from the wall carefully to see what you need to know.


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## Little_Country_Gal

Dub: I totally understand your point of view. In your case, and for many others, I might go the same way as well. However, I've got a tiny camper packed completely full. I don't have ANY spare counter space/floor space/or even wall space! Our greatest challenge is always space. I'm not complaining, just being realistic. I think the 210 is just perfect for us. I towed it everywhere last summer by myself/kids, and it's easy on my Jeep even over the mountains. We're mainly outside/away when we are camping anyway, not much for the campground scene personally.

Dale: I'm willing to risk having the wires. I know they are in the A/C space, and I'm willing to bet that they go back to the thermostat as well. Especially since yours did. My camper is currently about 4 hours away from us and I won't be able to check until next weekend. If I can get the parts by then, I'll be thrilled. I'll make sure to take the thermostat off and check for the wires first. Worst case would be no wires at the thermostat, then I'll just wait until I can get her home and run them. I'll take some extra wire and a wire fisher just in case we get over-motivated. I'll make some calls in the morning. Hopefully I can get the part numbers from Coleman, and get lucky if Camping World has them. Thanks again for the #'s and the encouragement!


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## KTMRacer

Dale said:


> I have a 295RE. Sounds like you had bad advise because I had no problems. If you look up into the unit from the air filter opening with a flash light, you will see the control box unit and all the wires. It is above and opposite side from the "install heat strip sticker here". I would call the number listed above at Airexcel (Coleman) and speak with Eric who is the RV expert of the manufacturer of the AC unit supplied on the Outback. He was very familiar with what they install on Outback units and I also purchased the compressor easy start capacitor which the unit is not equipped with. As I pointed out, you will need a new control box kit that includes the heat strip which installed with two wing nuts. All the wires plug in and out easily. Secondly need that new thermostat. The hardest part is stripping the little wires and splicing in an extension to hook up to the control box and thermostat.. The new thermostat is designed to work with electric or gas heat selections. I was a bit nervous it would all work out, but it was easy to do and I really like the way it works to supplement the heat but backed up by the furnace if it can not keep up.


Thanks!! I'll give them a call and ask for Eric. I've looked at the control box before, just where you say it is. I suspect the new control box also has a plug for the heater. First thing I did when we got the 295 was to install a soft start kit. Was thinking about adding a switch to my Hunter programmable to select either the electric or gas heat, I'll have to look at the thermostats. Really do want one that give setback capability. I had given up on the electric after my first call, glad to hear it is easily doable.!! I've got plenty of spare wires on the thermostat cable.


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## Oregon_Camper

What about adding an electric fireplace. I put one in our 301BQ and it REALLY does a good job of hearing the trailer in the winter. I don't even use the propane to heat now.

Click on my link below to jump to my site and check out the fireplace.


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## Little_Country_Gal

Oregon Camper: I love the idea of the fireplace! I can see why you like it. I wish that I had the space for a fireplace as well. If you can think of where I might put one in a 210 please let me know (no entertainment cabinet







). Awesome site of mods there! I enjoyed browsing them all. I'll have to add the step to storage to my spring to do list. Thanks for sharing!

I'm looking at the heat strip only as a supplement to the furnace. I know that it won't replace the furnace. Hopefully once the internal temperature is stabilized by the furnace then this would be able to maintain it for a while, at least during the daytime. If it even cuts my propane usage in half, then it will be worth the money for me. I'm not comfortable leaving a "plug-in" heater going during the day when we are not around. I may still get a small "plug-in" type that I could bring out for the nights (maybe put it on top of the stove after it cools down from dinner?) Any other 21ers out there adding more heat sources?

I called Airxcel this morning, although the contact# above was no longer connected (perhaps Eric is no longer with them?), the main line (316) 832-3400 shortly got me to another helpful "Dale" in service. He was very helpful and indicated that the install wouldn't be too difficult if I indeed do have the wiring to the thermostat. I must have the same unit as our outbacker Dale, as I need the exact same part #s. Thanks a bunch!

I think I'll have to take a trip to town soon and see what I can come up with.


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## Oregon_Camper

Little_Country_Gal said:


> Oregon Camper: I love the idea of the fireplace! I can see why you like it. I wish that I had the space for a fireplace as well. If you can think of where I might put one in a 210 please let me know (no entertainment cabinet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .gif[/img] ). Awesome site of mods there! I enjoyed browsing them all. I'll have to add the step to storage to my spring to do list. Thanks for sharing!
> 
> I'm looking at the heat strip only as a supplement to the furnace. I know that it won't replace the furnace. Hopefully once the internal temperature is stabilized by the furnace then this would be able to maintain it for a while, at least during the daytime. If it even cuts my propane usage in half, then it will be worth the money for me. I'm not comfortable leaving a "plug-in" heater going during the day when we are not around. I may still get a small "plug-in" type that I could bring out for the nights (maybe put it on top of the stove after it cools down from dinner?) Any other 21ers out there adding more heat sources?
> 
> I called Airxcel this morning, although the contact# above was no longer connected (perhaps Eric is no longer with them?), the main line (316) 832-3400 shortly got me to another helpful "Dale" in service. He was very helpful and indicated that the install wouldn't be too difficult if I indeed do have the wiring to the thermostat. I must have the same unit as our outbacker Dale, as I need the exact same part #s. Thanks a bunch!
> 
> I think I'll have to take a trip to town soon and see what I can come up with.


If I was in your situation, I'd put an electrical heater (not fireplace) that can crank out a lot of heat, and place it in the rear storage area. Then open a space from the storage area and vent the heat through the step. Make the step high enough to have two levels. The bottom level would be for the heat to flow right out on the sofa and dinette (PERFECT location) and then the second level would be for stuff like shoes..toys...etc.

Then you simply hit a remote control and boom...you have heat. Just clear enough space around the heater to operate safely.


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## KTMRacer

Called airxcel again, talked to a tech who this time said "No problem, tell me what year AC you have". then gave me the same PN's to order as Dale posted. Wish I would have gotten good info 3 months ago! Now off to buy parts.


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## Dub

Little_Country_Gal said:


> Dub: I totally understand your point of view. In your case, and for many others, I might go the same way as well. However, I've got a tiny camper packed completely full. I don't have ANY spare counter space/floor space/or even wall space! Our greatest challenge is always space. I'm not complaining, just being realistic. I think the 210 is just perfect for us. I towed it everywhere last summer by myself/kids, and it's easy on my Jeep even over the mountains. We're mainly outside/away when we are camping anyway, not much for the campground scene personally.
> 
> Dale: I'm willing to risk having the wires. I know they are in the A/C space, and I'm willing to bet that they go back to the thermostat as well. Especially since yours did. My camper is currently about 4 hours away from us and I won't be able to check until next weekend. If I can get the parts by then, I'll be thrilled. I'll make sure to take the thermostat off and check for the wires first. Worst case would be no wires at the thermostat, then I'll just wait until I can get her home and run them. I'll take some extra wire and a wire fisher just in case we get over-motivated. I'll make some calls in the morning. Hopefully I can get the part numbers from Coleman, and get lucky if Camping World has them. Thanks again for the #'s and the encouragement!


I'm familiar with the space issue, my Fun Finder was tiny...towed with a V6 truck. They also don't make them as wide as a normal camper. You could always mount the Big Buddy or an electric heater up on the wall. Good luck!


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## Little_Country_Gal

A heater in the storage compartment, vented through the step! Now that's thinking! It just might work. I guess I'm going to have to wait until I get her home for the spring for that one. I'm assuming that this would be a genuine DIY creation. I wonder if I could still use the digital thermostat upgrade to control it in conjunction with the furnace? Possibly. Any ideas of a potential supplier for the heater? Thanks!

KTMRacer: Did you get your parts? Keep us updated please!


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## KTMRacer

Little_Country_Gal said:


> A heater in the storage compartment, vented through the step! Now that's thinking! It just might work. I guess I'm going to have to wait until I get her home for the spring for that one. I'm assuming that this would be a genuine DIY creation. I wonder if I could still use the digital thermostat upgrade to control it in conjunction with the furnace? Possibly. Any ideas of a potential supplier for the heater? Thanks!
> 
> KTMRacer: Did you get your parts? Keep us updated please!


Heat kit should be here on monday. I'm going to modify my existing Hunter programable setback thermostat since I want to keep a programable setback thermostat. Will add a SPDT Switch to the Hunter to select between electric and gas heat and set the thermostat to HE so it will automatically turn on the fan in the A/C. When most thermostat controls, including the hunter, are set for HG, they don't turn on the fan relay. If we are on shore power, that means the A/C fan will be on low when the furnace is on, but that may actually help air circulation for heat anyway. If I decide I don't like that, a couple of diodes appropriately wired will let me turn the electric heat fan from the HG thermostat setting. When we are dry camping (most of the time), gas is all we will use. Does mean the neat autoswitchover to gas if the electric can't keep up won't work, but oh well.

Little country gal: you might look into a small 120V Cadet brand wall heater. Home depot/Lowes etc usually has them, and they are about the size of a heat register, intended for permanent mount, and some models include a remote thermostat. Best way to add it would be to add a dedicated 20A circuit and run wiring for it, but I suppose it might be able to be modified to have a cord to plug into an existing outlet. Usually this type of heater is NOT controllable by normal thermostats, they need a thermostat for high current.


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## KTMRacer

Well, finally got the trailer out from under it's cover a few week ago to install the Coleman heat strip in the A/C.

Here is the good news.

1) Very easy to install, probably less than an hour to remove the old control module and install the new module and heat strip.
2) Really don't even need a thermostat with a relay control for the fan. Control module automatically turns on the low speed fan when the heat strip comes on
3) I used my existing Hunter thermostat and simply added a slide switch on the side to switch between the strip heater and furnace.
4) With the higher output and the ducting, it does keep up better than a small heater and keeps the whole trailer at a constant temp.

Downside(s)
1) It is noisier than a small electric heater, same noise as when the A/C is on the low fan setting
2) As mentioned by others, the exhaust air temp is lower than from a small electric heater. DW did complain that the air was to cold, and I somewhat agree with her. Best setup was to turn off the sliders in the unit and let it vent through only the remote ceiling ducts to help reduce the air volume at any one point.

Was it worth it??? Well, yes, IF you install it yourself. If you had to pay someone to install it for me it would have been beyond the benefit/cost payoff.

And, we didn't throw out the portable electric heater. If DW wants to get warm after coming in from the cold, it's the solution.


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## Dale

When I called Airexcell (Coleman) they advised me NOT to use an aftermarket thermostat. They stated that people try it all the time and it works for a short while then damages the unit (I can not recall why other than remembering they cautioned about this). I purchased and installed the heat strip and their thermostat. What I love about it is the programing logic. When in heat strip mode, if the temperature falls 5 degrees below the set temperature, the furnace will automatically take over, it that happens more than twice within a certain time period, the heat strip goes into lock-out mode and the furnace only runs. After a period of time (90 minutes I think), the heat strip will again try to keep the unit warm and this cycle continues. I tried this out when I stayed in my trailer couple weeks ago and love this feature which I don't think would work without the proper thermostat.


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## KTMRacer

Dale said:


> When I called Airexcell (Coleman) they advised me NOT to use an aftermarket thermostat. They stated that people try it all the time and it works for a short while then damages the unit (I can not recall why other than remembering they cautioned about this). I purchased and installed the heat strip and their thermostat. What I love about it is the programing logic. When in heat strip mode, if the temperature falls 5 degrees below the set temperature, the furnace will automatically take over, it that happens more than twice within a certain time period, the heat strip goes into lock-out mode and the furnace only runs. After a period of time (90 minutes I think), the heat strip will again try to keep the unit warm and this cycle continues. I tried this out when I stayed in my trailer couple weeks ago and love this feature which I don't think would work without the proper thermostat.


downside to the coleman thermostat is at least the ones they told me about aren't programmable. I want (need) one that I can set to have the trailer warm when I wake up, or cooled down when I return. I guess I'll watch for any hint of problems using my hunter thermostat. thanks for the heads up. Agree the logic when using the coleman thermostat and heat strip is nice.


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