# Chevy Owners!



## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Just wondering if I should add on:

POWER TOWER
K&N filter

Any thoughts? I'm hearing the increase in power is well worth it.


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## marty&dianeww (Feb 23, 2004)

May not hurt. You should check in to Airaide and others. I am using an Airaide intake and a Flo master system. They seem to help getting 19.5 mpg at 65 (not towing) out of a 99, 350 in a Z71. I am using a single not dual exaust system (did not want to mess with spare tire removal).


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

K&N is on the list of mods, but from other Av owners I know I won't see a major improvment in mileage no matter what I do.


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi jman, I do have the helix power tower on my tahoe as well as flowmaster exhaust,k&n air system. Here is something else I have been looking at> www.vararam.com <, I have read some good things about it, also going to put up a set of headers when the budget allows. Kirk


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Kirk
I think I'm going to get the POWER TOWER. Did you yank out the factory intake/filter or did you just add a K&N filter to the existing box?
Did you get the performance increase they all claim? How about MPG?

That Vararam looks very simple. Wonder how true the performance claim is?


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Jman, Yes I did remove the existing air box and the bracket that held it into place. I then installed the heat shield and tube and tower to the throttle body, yours may be different my throttle body is on the front of the manifold, some earlier years were on top of the manifold. By taking the mounting bracket out this allows a direct passage to the under side of the tahoe and you get max air flow. I also made a couple of sheet metal plates to completely seal off the motor compartment and glued foam strips to the inside of the hood so I only get cool outside air. I think all mods to the motor have a adding effect expectually with intake and exhaust you have to do them both to see any advances in HP or MPG. This is why I will do the headers when the budget allows. I also use a superchip tunier to optimize the performance when towing and around town. Yes I do think it has helped with MPG and HP, every little bit helps, Kirk

PS I may just add a whipple supercharger to this thing as well, have been considering it, What a boost 275 hp to 375 hp with a single bolt on item, wow


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Excellent. I'll get all these mods soon. I don't think I'll be getting a super charger though. I have a teenage son, and I'd never get to drive my 'Ho!

Thanks for the info!


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Yea I know what you mean about the teenage son. Mine is still on his permit and about 2 month away from his lisence. Maybe thats why he is so for doing the s-charger







. Good luck with your mods,Kirk


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## JimWilson (Feb 24, 2004)

NDJollyMon said:


> Any thoughts? I'm hearing the increase in power is well worth it.


Probably the most noticeable increase will be engine noise, not power. Both of your suggested upgrades have a tendency to increase the intake sounds, to the point that you can start to hear them in the cab under certain circumstances. Some, like the throttle body spacer, also have a propensity to make a whistling sound under load. That can get old fast.

There's one other thing to consider; since your increasing your trucks ability to "inhale" you'd really need to make the corresponding changes in it's ability to "exhale" (read: exhaust system) in order to take full advantage of those mods. But either way, the difference won't be significant.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Jim...
Thanks for your thoughts. I never really thought about the engine noise. Then again, my FLOWMASTER MUFFLER is loud enough to where I may not hear it!









I'm going to my brother in laws for Easter, and I'll listen to his 'Burb engine. He just did the mod.


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Here is my list in the order that they will be installed:

Rancho adjustable shocks - Installed
4.10 Eaton positraction rear end - going in on Thursday
Thorley long tube headers & Gibson cat-back exhaust - next month
k&N FIPK intake - month after that
Hypertech Power-programer III - month after that

So in about 90 days I'll be done.

I subscribe to Sport Truck magazine and they do alot of dyno tests on these items. I saw in a past issue that they got 5hp to the rear tires on a Chevy 5.3 with the K&N FIPK system. On another test they got about 10hp out of a cat-back exhaust. The biggest bang-for-the-buck was the smog legal headers which put 35-40hp the the ground. Most numbers had a similar boost in torque as well.

I figure by doing the whole program I should wake up my 5.7 nicely


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Let us know how it turns out.

Tim


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Eaton 4.10 positraction went in today







One more item checked off the list.


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi Jim, that is also on my list. Why did you choose the eaton and if you don't mind how much did it cost to install. I have a price of $1200.00 to put in a 4:10 posi but I did not check on the brand? Does eaton hold up better then other makes? Kirk


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Hey Kirk:

The Eaton brand is a very heavy duty unit and is a far better system than what Chevy installed. Also, Eaton has a long reputation for handling really BIG horsepower and torque in the racing industry, and is very popular amongst that crowd because of this. One last Eaton benefit is that in the event of a failure you can rebulid it. Not so with Auburn (Eaton's largest competitor).

The total cost out the door including 8.25% sales tax was $1098. This total was about $100 higher because I had them replace all the central bearings while they were in there. Of course $225 of the cost was for new gears because I switched from 3.73 to 4.10. For those of you who want to keep your ratio the same the cost will be less. $395 for the Eaton unit and about $200-300 for labor.

They also did a really nice job flushing out the pumpkin and axel tubes with some special solvent that gets into all the crevices and leaves the system totally clean. Make sure your installer does this.

One last note, after getting much advice to do so, I had them fill the system with Mobil 1 75-90 synthetic gear oil which is suppposed to run about 20 degrees cooler and will not foam in the event of a severe overheat. They also insisted on putting in one bottle (about 4 ounces) of a GM Positraction additive.

I'm going on a weekend road trip to Las Vegas today (without the trailer) that will put me over the 500 mile break-in needed before towing. Although after dropping $1000 in the rear end I'll be playing nickel slots!


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

$700 is a lot to spend if there is nothing wrong. I guess I will wait until the GM factory limited slip fails, and the truck is no longer in warranty before I upgrade to that. I'd be interested in hearing what your non-towing mileage changes are though. I have the 3.73's, and would be interested in knowing the everyday difference with the 4.10's

Tim


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## DernMooseAK (Apr 16, 2004)

Most of these mods sound good. Some better than others, here is what I found out from experiance and from research. Hope this helps some of you all.

Throttle body spacers: Do there best work for those with Throttle bodies or carbs, when the spacer goes between where the fuel & air mix. The newer vehicles that have fuel injectors in the intake manifold or the direct injection to the cylinder there is very little to no gain. Because the fuel & air mix after the spacer.

Air Intake system: Improve air intake, improve mpg, and horse power but cost versus price is important to keep in mind! K&N system $200-300 for 1 or 2 mpg. Average HP increase of 10 or less. Slight increase in noise, rarely noticed by anyone but primary driver. Replacement K&N or other high flow filter is better, and cheaper choice.

Exhaust: Probly the best bang for the buck. More HP and better mpg on average 3-4. With just a muffler change. But, with good comes bad. In the form of noise! More than likely... alot.

I have done these upgrades, mods or what ever you want to call them on 2 of my own vehicles 5.7 and 5.3 suburbans. Remember an engine is a big air pump the faster it goes in, the faster it needs to come out to get good returns.

My 2 cents worth, hope this helps.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Dern...
Thanks for your info! You sound like you've done what I'd like to do!

I think I'll do the Throttle Body Spacer & the K&N filter. I have a FLOWMASTER already. Air in...air out!


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## JimWilson (Feb 24, 2004)

California Jim said:


> The Eaton brand is a very heavy duty unit and is a far better system than what Chevy installed.


Actually, Eaton IS the brand of locker used by GM from the factory.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

True or False?

I have heard that the K & N type filters can foul up some GM sensor? (the filter oil)
Any truth to that, in anyone's experience?


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## DernMooseAK (Apr 16, 2004)

I have not heard that, there is only a very little bit of oil on the filter. It shouldn't even shine on your hand if you run your finger across the filter.


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## JimBo (Oct 20, 2003)

Where do you hook up your brake away switch cord/line on your tow vehicles?. I don't seem to have a good attachment spot on my TV frame? Thank you...


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Perhaps true, but the aftermarket version Eaton is nothing like what came out of there.


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Here is a question...

Has anyone used a transmission temp. gauge other then the units included in the Denali/Escalade/Silverado SS gauge clusters?

I'd really like to add a temp gauge, but I really don't want to spend $200+ for a new cluster, and go through the hassle of calibrating the odometer/hour meter.

I was looking at the VDO unit, which is reasonably priced, and the Dakota Digital, which is a little more expensive. Does anyone know if the sending unit was installed on all 2002's, and if so, will it work with either of the above gauges?

Tim


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

hey jimbo, The break away cord on mine just slips on one of the hooks then the hook goes on the hitch part on the frame. It is always hooked to the hook even when off. Kirk


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Yea, I got the Ok from my better half to change the gears. I found a place in Corona which beat the local shops by $300.00 and can have it done in one day. They are going to put in the eaton 4:10 posi unit and new everything else. Now it's just a matter of coordinating so I have enough time to get the 500 miles on before the next trip at the end of May. Thanks Jim and others for the info







Kirk


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

From what I hear...
The breakaway switch cable should be hooked to spot separate from the hitch. A place on the vehicle, so if there is a failure of the hitch, it will still stop the RV.

I can't see my hitch system ripping off my TV, so I hook it to the chain loop hole on the hitch.


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## JimWilson (Feb 24, 2004)

NDJollyMon said:


> True or False?
> 
> I have heard that the K & N type filters can foul up some GM sensor? (the filter oil)
> Any truth to that, in anyone's experience?


True.

If you over-oil the filter, which isn't all that hard to do, you will foul up the mass airflow sensor. That, in turn, sets off a domino effect of problems because the computer is now getting false intake air readings.

Changing your air filter regularly is a good idea, but you should really avoid any one that needs to be oiled.


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Good luck Kirk. I've got 900+ miles on mine now and am leaving for a local weekend trip with the Outback this weekend. I'll be at Eastshore RV park in San Dimas if you're thinking about heading out for a quickie


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi Jim, Can't pull the Outback down to San Dimas this weekend because we will be out at the NASCAR races in Fontana. We work one of the concesstion stands and donate the money to the High school football team my son plays for. This is one of the major fund raising events of the year and no way to get out of it. Have fun at Puddingstone. Kirk


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Go Rusty....GO!


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## fixjet (Jan 19, 2004)

An Oiled Air Filter like the K&N of Amsoil can contaminate the Mass Air Flow Sensor if you over oil them. The most common problem this will cause is the engine to stumble all over itself just off idle, then come to life. If you don't over oil the filter at your annual service you won't have a problem. If you do it's no big deal to clean the MAF with contact cleaner and that cures the problem. Amsoil and K&N flow much more air and clean better so I believe they are worth it.


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Is the MAF sensor easy to get at and clean? Where is it?


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

Don't forget the lube the do hickey, or the thinamobob will stick and your do wang will kick in when the black thingy is pushed in.


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

J-man, the MAF is in the big hose going from the air cleaner to the trottle body. It has several wires hooked to it and is black about a inch thick and yes it is very easy to get to and clean. If I remember right it is only held in by a couple of hose clamp. I have had my K&N filter on for a year now and cleaned and reoiled it twice and have had no problems with MAF. Just follow the recharge instuctions and you will be OK. Kirk


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Cool. I will probably get one soon. Just wanted some advice on whether to get one or not. I certainly don't want to damage the Chevy!


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## fixjet (Jan 19, 2004)

NDjollymon, as aplvlykat said it is very easy to clean the MAF if you need to. (2 hose clamps and a connector) I haven't had a problem with my Amsoil Filter since the last reoiling. First time I got to much on and it messed up the MAF. Nothing that a little contact cleaner didn't solve. If anyone is interested I have a PDF of the Amsoil Filters.
Dan


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

Is the Amsoil filter like the K & N filter? I'm not familiar with them.


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

I have a question I hope someone can answer. The K&N filter system that I have is suppose to swirl the air therefore giving you better effiency. Here is the question, the MAF that is my Tahoe has a screen to keep it clean, I guess, but I always felt that the screen defeats the swirling action. Can I remove this screen and will the MAF work properly? Kirk


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## fixjet (Jan 19, 2004)

Amsoil filters are very similar to K&N. They are an oiled 2 stage Foam filter, that you can clean and reoil. Flow is equal to or better than K&N depending on whose data you read. 
The screen in front of the MAF is to protect it from impact damage. If you get to much oil on a filter it gets on the MAF sensor probes and tends to get bad reading to the computer. Don't over oil and it's no problem.


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Well, I went to the local performance shop yesterday, and ordered my tranny oil temp gauge. Some interesting info from the guy at the shop. He said that the 1500 series Avalanche's do not have a sending unit pre-installed in the tranny. Not that it mattered much, as the gauge I purchased, (AutoMeter) comes with a sending unit.

I will be adding a "T-Block" manifold for the sending unit. Do any of you mechanic types have a recommedation for the location of the block? I would guess somewhere in the engine compartment, but would think nearer the transmission would be best. I just need to figure out which line is going to the cooler, and which is the return.









Tim


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Tim, if I remember right the flow comes to the radiator out to the air cooled unit then back to the tranny. Can someone else verify this. Kirk


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## DernMooseAK (Apr 16, 2004)

aplvlykat 
You are correct on the flow. Also remember you want your temp gauge on the out side of tranny(going to the cooler). If its on the return(cooled) you get a lower temp then the tranny really is. And by the time you see on the gauge your temp is getting to high your tranny is hotter than indicated.


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## Y-Guy (Jan 30, 2004)

Tim what is the ballpark price of the temp gauge and everything?


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Gauge and sending unit=$50, Mounting unit to put the gauge on the "A" Post=$20, In line manifold block to connect sending unit=$30. Total with sales tax $127. Cost of knowing how hot the tranny is? Priceless!









I will post some pic's when I get everything installed. 
Tim


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Tim, I would like to see some pic's as well. I had bought a new cluster off E-bay but it is the wrong one, yah it works but the tach is the wrong RPM range, max's out at 5000 rpm, where the original max's at 6000 also the trip meter does not work. I still use it but only on trips because it does have the temp gauge. I am thinking about selling it and recouping some of the money. So beware if you buy a cluster off the internet. kirk


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Well guys the old tahoe goes into the shop tomorrow







. I have my wifes blessing and am getting the gears changed from the 3:42 open to 4:10 eaton posi unit.
They gave me a price I couldn't turn down also the shop can get it done in one day. The down side is that I have a 500 mile break-in period before we can tow. Does anyone know how to calculate the effective ratio, I changed the tires from 30.6 to 33", does this lower the ratio or raise it?? Kirk


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## camping479 (Aug 27, 2003)

Kirk,

At the bottom of the favorite links page is a link to a page for calculating tire diameters and rear gear ratios. http://www.rvtowingtips.com/index.htm

Mike


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## aplvlykat (Jan 25, 2004)

Hi folks, I got the tahoe back today with the new posi unit installed. Seems to work great and feels like I have more get up and go. I pulled the Cajon summit , for those not familuar it's a 6% grade for 20 miles and tops out at 5600', at about 65 and it did not down shift at all. I am very pleased and ready to tow the mountains after the 500 mile breakin period. Kirk


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Congrats Kirk!

Yeah, you got alot of bang for your buck going from 3.42 to 4.10. With the tire size change you listed, and the new 4.10 installed, your effective gear ratio is 3.80 which is still a conservative blend of mileage and power. I have the same situation as my tires are 2" taller than stock. But still a noticable improvement for me, and alot of peace of mind knowing that strong unit is in there. I tow close to capacity.

Enjoy!


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

On Friday, my Av is having a aux tranny cooler, and a tranny temp gauge installed, as well as a flush of the tranny, and a replacement with synthetic tranny fluid.

Steve, I will post some pic's of the A-Post mounted gauge when it is done.









Tim


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