# Battery Question



## akdream (Mar 21, 2006)

We have a 28 krs that we took on its maden foyage last week. It was a great trip except for the battery. The battery was new with the trailer. We have had the TT for about a month and a half. It was towed home and parked. The TT was pluged into the house current for the entire time prior to the trip. We towed it about 3 hours to the camping area. The TT battery seemed charged. I turned on the heat and within a few hours the battery was dead. The dealer told me that if the battery lasts 4-5 hours it is in good shape. I know that the heater draws alot of power however it was not running the entire time. The frig was on gas, no lights were on. Lucky for us I convinced...the boss...to let me buy a generator, Honda EU2000. It worked great. The generator ran for 4-5 hours in the morning with out any draw on the system (the heater was off, no lights, etc). I then turned the generator off for about 3 hours and the battery indicator was showing only 1 light. Back to the generator for about 6 hours. When I turned it off to refill it I could see the lights dimming. Any ideas?







2 batteries, what kind, etc.....


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

There are many things this could be:

1) You got a bad battery

2) You failed to keep the water level topped off (you said it was plugged in for 1.5 months). Did you check the water level? Distilled water only for the battery.

3) You have a short in your system

To solve this mystery, you could borrow a friends 12v Deep Cycle battery and see if you have the same problem (waitâ€¦is your battery a Deep Cycle Marine Battery??) If not, that would be the #1 issue. If the dealer only put a car battery in there, then the 4-5 hours he quoted would be about right. If you still have the same problem with a different 12v Deep Cycle, then I'd rule out the battery.

Back to the resolution...

You should be able to go 2-3 nights one a single battery. Now, I would highly recommend you ditch the 12v battery the dealer installed and get yourself 2 6v batteries. This will still provide you 12v of power but at a greater cycle. Meaning, two 6v batteries will outlast two 12v batteries. I can go for 4-5 days before I have to charge my system, using my two 6v batteries.

Grab a cup of coffee and take 30-45 minutes to read the following web site. You will find a lot of information and you'll be a battery expert when you're done.

http://www.ccis.com/home/mnemeth/12volt/12volt.htm

If you still have questions....feel free to ask.


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Do all the things that Jim suggested, and in addition;

You should also check all connections from the battery, all the way to the converter and make sure nothing is loose. A loose connection is not a good conductor of electricity, and it is also a fire hazard. Also check to make sure you don't have any popped fuses or breakers on the panel.

Tim


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

If you are going to be serious about dry camping and usig batteries -- then I highly recommend (2) 6-volt (six volt) batteries ... and then add a solar panel when you get a chance.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Sounds like you have gotten good advice on future batteries but you need to find out why the battery is not holding a charge.

Check the electrolyte levels in all the cells, A new 6 week old battery should not have been cooked dry but it may never have been filled properly.

Get a volt meter to check actual voltages.

When you had the generator on, the converter supplied the trailer with 12 vdc and should have been pumping the amps into the battery, as such the fan in the converter should have been running hard. Did you hear the fan running in the converter?

Let us know what you find.


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## BigBadBrain (Aug 26, 2004)

Some posts have suggested that the charger in the TT is of limited capability for charging quickly. That might be why you had little charge even after some hours of 'charging'. I would get a battery tender or other charger that will hook to the generator and then isolate the battery (no load) and charge it separately.

But then again, I'm not an expert.


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

Personally -- if i had a new 2006 like you do i would simply call Outback ... tell them the battery was dead -- and ask them for the nearest authorized exchange spot to take it to... there has to be a dozen in your area....


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

The battery is not a factory installed option. Keystone has no liability to replace it. If it was part of the deal with the dealership, they would be the one's to replace it.

I'm not a lawyer, but I did sleep in an Outback once.

Tim


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## akdream (Mar 21, 2006)

Thanks for the advise. I checked the fluid level when we were camping and they were all full. The connections to the battery are clean and tight. I am pretty sure the fan was running on the converter. I will dig into it further today. Are there any mods necessary to go to 6v system? Eric


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

hatcityhosehauler said:


> The battery is not a factory installed option. Keystone has no liability to replace it. If it was part of the deal with the dealership, they would be the one's to replace it.
> 
> I'm not a lawyer, but I did sleep in an Outback once.
> 
> ...


I totally spaced on that and you are correct -- thats a dealer option -- my Bad...


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## akdream (Mar 21, 2006)

I just got back from Schuck's and the battery tested fine under load. I bought a second 12v battery so we'll see how that goes. Later today I will check the draw on the system with various things on (lights, heater, etc).


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## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Ghosty said:


> hatcityhosehauler said:
> 
> 
> > The battery is not a factory installed option. Keystone has no liability to replace it. If it was part of the deal with the dealership, they would be the one's to replace it.
> ...


Wow, a legal professional that admits being wrong.....









Only kidding Ghosty...hope I didn't ruffle any feathers. Sometimes I overlook that not everyone has a firehouse sense of humor.









Tim


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## NDJollyMon (Aug 22, 2003)

> Sometimes I overlook that not everyone has a firehouse sense of humor.


Yea....'extremely warped!'


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

One other thing to check. The fridge has a 12volt door heater to reduce condensation if it is left on with no hookups it will drain the battery fast. The switch is on the frame if you open the freezer it on the top.

John


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## WFO383 (Apr 13, 2006)

I have been fighting the same problem in my 2006 23rs. The battery will run to low to operate even the lights in about 3-4 hours. I checked the fluid level and tested the battery all checked out fine. I am going to try another battery and see if it works. Well if anything at least i'm not the only one who has this problem. 
Regards,
wfo383


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

WFO383 said:


> I have been fighting the same problem in my 2006 23rs. The battery will run to low to operate even the lights in about 3-4 hours. I checked the fluid level and tested the battery all checked out fine. I am going to try another battery and see if it works. Well if anything at least i'm not the only one who has this problem.
> Regards,
> wfo383
> [snapback]108125[/snapback]​


Just wondering...what are you doing for 4hrs that requires battery? I'm guessing you're running the heater, but that seems like a long time to run the heater.


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

Something is odd. I run my heater all night when dry camping in the winter and the battery lasts the entire night - even when temps drop into single digits. Of course, all the lines freeze, but that's a different story.







I have a battery switch and switch to a fresh battery in the morning. Depending on the length of stay and the temps, I'll charge the battery with the generator in the evening.

The battery should last much, much longer than what you describe. I would look for a short or loose connection to something.

My 2 cents.

Scott


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## Txcamper (Apr 3, 2006)

Is it best to keep the battery charged by keeping the TT plugged in at storage or by unhooking it and placing it on a small charger?


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## nascarcamper (Jan 27, 2005)

If the battery only showed one bar after charging with the converter for 4 hours it sounds like the converter isn't charging the battery. Some don't have the built in charger but most do. I'd start by charging the battery with a regular battery charger and see how long it lasts that way. If it still don't last long you need to start looking for what's creating such a large draw. The moisture switch on the fridge is a good place to start. Mine will drain down in about a week just sitting in the yard so I had to install a cut off for mine and the nearest I can tell the furnace controls up in the a/c unit is drawing the power down but not in four hours. It should easily run all night with the proper deep cycle battery fully charged. Good luck.


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

I don't want to hijack the thread, but just what does this switch in the fridge do? I just went out to see if I had one - I do and I never noticed it before. It was in the off position so it hasn't been a drain on the battery, but why would I switch it on?

Scott


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Moosegut said:


> I don't want to hijack the thread, but just what does this switch in the fridge do? I just went out to see if I had one - I do and I never noticed it before. It was in the off position so it hasn't been a drain on the battery, but why would I switch it on?
> 
> Scott
> [snapback]108176[/snapback]​


It is a heat strip around the door seal to prevent condensation.


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> Moosegut said:
> 
> 
> > I don't want to hijack the thread, but just what does this switch in the fridge do?Â I just went out to see if I had one - I do and I never noticed it before.Â It was in the off position so it hasn't been a drain on the battery, but why would I switch it on?
> ...


Pardon my stupidity, but does it heat the door? Does it prevent condensation on the outside of the door by heating it? And does it stay on even when the fridge is turned off while in storage. If it stays on even when the fridge is off that might explain the battery drain.


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

You re not the only one that never knew. I am reading this with interest and I love learning new things

John


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## 2500Ram (Oct 30, 2005)

Back to the battery question, check the main 30amp fuse. If that's blown the converter wont charge the batteries.

Bill.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Moosegut said:


> Pardon my stupidity, but does it heat the door? Does it prevent condensation on the outside of the door by heating it? And does it stay on even when the fridge is turned off while in storage. If it stays on even when the fridge is off that might explain the battery drain.
> 
> [snapback]108197[/snapback]​


Not sure if it is operational when the fridge is turned off but I suspect not. It only heats the frame of the fridge where the door seal touches.

It will eat up a battery very quick if turned on without shore power.


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## Moosegut (Sep 24, 2005)

CamperAndy said:


> Moosegut said:
> 
> 
> > Pardon my stupidity, but does it heat the door?Â Does it prevent condensation on the outside of the door by heating it?Â And does it stay on even when the fridge is turned off while in storage.Â If it stays on even when the fridge is off that might explain the battery drain.
> ...


Thanks CA. I imagine I should turn it on if I see condensation. It's good to know I have it if I need it.


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## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

Don't think I've ever seen condensation on my frig? When does this normally happen?


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## NJMikeC (Mar 29, 2006)

To check for a drain proceed as follows:

Go to an automotive store and get a 12V test light. Unhook the battery and place the test light in series with the battery. Start with everything completely off. I MEAN EVERYTHING. Start hitting fuses, etc until you see the light go on the test light. Then you know what circuit is causing a drain. That is how you trouble shoot a car that keeps on draining the battery. It works! The light goes on when there is current being drawn through it. No current being drawn no light, no current then the battery isn't being drained.

Next you go to the battery

I know how to check a regular car battery but not a deep cycle one. For a car battery you put a load on it and see if it falls below 9.6 volts over a short period. The load you put on it is about 100AMPS or roughly equal to that of what a cars starter draws when you crank the engine. That test isn't so great for a RV battery since they have much less current draw for a much greater period but I guess if it fails that test then it would also have a reduced life in the RV as well.

In the winter take you batteries out of the camper bring them in the garage and put a charger on them every 2 months. For that matter don't even waste time with plugging house current into the camper as the converters are notable poor chargers. There are 2 types of chargers trickle and higher rate. Trickles are great until the battery is totally dead then you need a higher rate charger.

Good trickle chargers are $60 & $70 bucks but over time it is worth the hastle of not worrying about dead batteries. Cabelas and Bass Pro shops sell good trickle chargers. Automotive stores sell the higher rate chargers. If you buy a cheap high rate charger you probably have to monitor it and don't leave it on all night or for days. It will cook the battery.

I charge my batteries religiously on everything when they are in storage. Snowmobiles, lawnmower, ATV and the electric boat motor batteries. Many of my batteries are 5 years old and counting

Hope this helps. It helps me a lot!


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

NJMikeC said:


> In the winter take you batteries out of the camper bring them in the garage and put a charger on them every 2 months. For that matter don't even waste time with plugging house current into the camper as the converters are notable poor chargers. There are 2 types of chargers trickle and higher rate. Trickles are great until the battery is totally dead then you need a higher rate charger.
> 
> [snapback]109717[/snapback]​


Just so you know the 3 stage WFCO converters installed in the Outbacks are about as good as any 3 stage battery charger. Have not heard of anyone here running a battery dry when leaving it plugged in. I check my battery every 2 months and have only added water once in 20 months.

In the winter I bring the batteries in and put them on a 1.5 amp battery minder. Plug and forget till it is time to re install them in the trailer.


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