# Virgin Outbacker! :)



## TNFiddler (Jun 13, 2005)

Wow.

First time outbacking with my 21RS - took it on a trip that took 5 hours - Cades Cove in the Smokey Mountains.....and for those that have never visited heaven before, this is it - even though it is dry camping!









I'm not used to driving 62 MPH on the Interstate, but I took your advice and did just that. Sure, it took probably another hour to arrive, but to keep me sane, it was worth it. I actually enjoyed the ride - only having to pass twice on the way there, once on the way back. Wow. I always used to be annoyed having to pass those people that drove 10 miles under the speed limit - now its fun being the annoyee







heh

Ok - on to a few questions and suggestions.

1. Fresh Water guage.
We dry camped from Thurs night till Sun morning. I took a quick shower each morning (except for Sunday morning). Took a while to realize that the hot water heater wasn't on - that little tiny light was on beside the monitor - yep - means that the pilot light didn't light. I reset it after I realized it was off - and *poof* - hot water 15 minutes later (fast heater!). Loved the hot water - while it lasted.

I realized that the guage went to 2/3, then to 1/3 very quickly. Grey water guage said 2/3 full very quickly. I had to make a quick trip down the mountain to an RV store and bought a 25 gallon portable waste thing. Whew. Emptied the grey without any problems (didn't even use the toilet, so no black all weekend).

Saturday night, the guage on the fresh water reads Empty. No showers Sunday morning. On our way out of camp, went over to the dump station, emptied the grey and turned on the water, expecting it to be empty. Well, it ran for a good 5-10 minutes!!! All of us could have easily had a shower Sunday morning. So here's my question (if it isn't obvious) - how the heck do you know exactly how much water you have left? Mine said Empty - but obviously had many more gallons left.

2. Leveling the TT.
I spent a good hour getting it level my first time - at least front to back. I thought it would be just as easy getting it level left to right - uh, no. That is apparently where some good boards come in handy. It wasn't too bad - but enough to make me get some boards for my NEXT time. Can you purchase those automatic leveling things for these TTs? Or is that only for high end campers/homes?

3. Getting it home...
I got it home tonight and set it in my driveway for a good cleaning. This time the tongue has to come way down to be level. So I put the jacks down in the back (and back up a little, as I had to crank UP the tongue). I unhooked it from my truck and begin to lower it down to level it - and maybe you've guess it - it started to roll a little. I was able to hold it while my wife went around and put the jacks back down in the back to hold it. Sheese. Then I realized that I missed putting blocks around the tires to hold it in place. Eventually I'll figure out the correct order - hopefully without watching my TT go down a hill or something. Sheese.

So here's my question - is there a way that I can lock the tires without using a block/chock? Is there a manual way to activate the electric brakes? Needless to say, I'm a little spooked about getting in the dern thing now in my driveway (my driveway is aggregate) - even though the jacks are down and EACH tire now has a chock. How can I be assured that this thing will not move at all?

I still love the TT - best thing I bought for the family.

Thanks!


----------



## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

I'll answer the water question first but just to let you know all the questions are good.

For the fresh water fill the tank then use a 2 gallon bucket to see how many you get before each indicator changes.

To figure out where the level indicators were put you have to test it by making sure the Grey and black tanks are dry. Then add the 2 gallon bucket one at a time and record when the lights come on. To do this the trailer must be level. Many of the full indicators are near the middle of the tank. You will get a lot of water in the tanks once the full light comes on so just keep going until it backs up. Then you know it is really full.

As for leveling and unhooking.

It depends on the site but here is what I do.

I place my trailer where I want it on the pad. Then check for side to side level. If it requires adjustment I place the required thickness of Lynx levelers next to the tire on the side that needs to be raised. You can also use 2x6 for this. I then pull forward and then slide the levelers under and behind the wheels. I then back onto the levelers.

Now the tricky part. You need to see if the site would cause you to roll forward or backward. Once you figure that out I use a Lynx chock that connects to the levelers and place on the end that the trailer wants to roll toward. Now move the trailer as required to force the tire into the chock preloading it and have the DW place a second chock on the other side of the tire. Then I place the truck in neutral and make sure that the trailer is still tight against both the front and rear chock. If it is then I place the truck in park and remove the trailer from the ball. I always leave the chains on until I am released from the hitch. Once released complete the disconnect and then level the trailer front to back with the tongue jack. Now you can run the stabilizers down to ground contact plus 1 turn. I always do the back ones first then the front ones.

Now you can put out the slides.


----------



## Oregon_Camper (Sep 13, 2004)

1) Fresh Water Gauge - Covered by CamperAndy

2) Leveling - Wow, you actually sent an hour? You have patience









Seriously, just get it close. It does not have to be perfect for all the appliances to work. Get the side-to-side done first, then lock the wheels, then level front-to-rear. Again, just get it as close as possible.

3) Chocking - there are a few methods for this. One is the easy 4 chocks in front-back of each side for the trailer. Guess you could do all wheels (making it 8 chocks) but that'sa bit overkill for me. You can get fancy and buy the "chock & lock" from Camping World if you want to spend some more $$ 
http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/in...33&skunum=26563

Glad to have you here.


----------



## drobe5150 (Jan 21, 2005)

tnfiddler action

glad to see you had a good time, even if it took you an hour for leveling, practice makes perfect.

jeez, i think camperandy should be a moderator,







he makes it so much easer for the rest of us.

thank you camperandy









darrel


----------



## hatcityhosehauler (Feb 13, 2004)

Howie,

Andy covered the water level indicators. Industry wide these type are not very accurate, as it all depends on where the sensors are placed in the tank. There are more accurate systems out there, that you can add for some money.

As far as leveling, I do pretty much the same as Andy too, execpt I'm cheap by nature, so I just used some 2x6 and 5/4x6 PT pine that I had left over from building a deck at my house. I also made 2 regular chocks, and 2 "lock" chocks from the very same material (used 4x4's for the lock chocks.). Then after I am leveled side to side, and chocked and locked, I disconnect from the truck, and level front to back, then give the jack a couple turns to raise the tongue slightly, and pitch the roof and rear slide back. Takes about 15 minutes from start to finish, and that includes walking the site before I back in.

I will post a photo of the homemade lock chocks for you, as soon as I find it.

Tim


----------



## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

I think the fault tolerance of the gauges are off about 99% ... my grey tank gauge will go from 0/3 to 3/3 in one quick hand washing....

The fresh water tank is listed at 45 gallons -- thats allot ... the first time i went out my fresh water tank supposingly ran down to where it read empty -- just to see how much i had left in it I let it drain ... and drain... and drain... and drain... it must have had another 15 gallons in it --

so moral of the sotry is -- the gauges are just for show and tell......

--


----------



## TNFiddler (Jun 13, 2005)

Thanks all for the info. I went and bought these at my local Camping World tonight: http://www.campingworld.com/browse/skus/in...109&tab=reviews

I must say - they are extremely easy to install and my confidence went up 300% when I walked into my TT tonight.







I love them, to say the least.

Oh - and Camping World - wow - they had to tell me to stop staring at things and buy something. heheh - I felt like a kid in a candy store.

Regarding fluid levels - now that I have it home, I think I'll take the time to really learn exactly how much the tanks really hold. I guess I'll eventually get a good "feel" how much a full tank will last.

Ok - one follow up question - I bought a 25 gallon portable waste thing, and I'm only talking grey water here - but do you ever just leave the valve open and leave it connect to the TT while you camp? I noticed at Camping World tonight they had this little bobber thing that raises with the waste level, letting you know when it is full - but I didn't know if that meant you could just leave the valve open while you camp. I don't know the best practice there.

Thanks again all - I really look forward to contributing to the site more as I get more experience.

TNF


----------



## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

Hi TNFiddler
Haven't been at a Campingworld yet
We got a Balance Deluxe Tire Locking Chock when we got our very first Outback
And love it. we also just got Aluminum Stacker Jacks really stabilize the camper.
The waste thingy around here they call them (Honey Pot on Wheels) the gauge is just 
to some ideal of how much is in it. Don't leave the valve open because you do have to disconnect
the hose to dump it you could have a mess. 
Don


----------

