# 2008 Chevy Silverado 2500 Hd Gas



## Lehnertfamily5 (Apr 4, 2006)

We took our 2007 duramax to the dealer to get rid of it because it is such a peice of crap . we have had it for 6 months and we have had it in the shop every month.

Come to find out we were to upside down on the truck to keep our payments where we wanted them for another diesel. They were talking 790.00 payment ( no way)

So we are looking at the 2008 chevy silverado hd it is the 6.0 vortec with a 3.73 something lol ( shows i am a girl) Will this pull my 2007 outback 28rsds without being too overloaded?

Fast advice would be appreciated . we are supposed to go to the dealer in a couple hours when dh goes to work

Thanks so much Leigh


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## jdpm (Apr 12, 2007)

Wow! Really sorry to hear about all the problems with the diesel. I'm so glad I bought a 2006 Ram diesel. Since the '07s have come out, no matter what brand, all you read about is issues. It has to do with all the epa crap loaded up on these new diesels. 
So for diesel shoppers, buy yourself a low mileage 2006 or older. Avoid the headaches. 
Good luck with your new truck purchase. PCM


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## jasonrebecca (Oct 30, 2007)

Has your Chevy been in teh shop for the same thing each time? If so check your state lemon laws.

We bought a Chev Aveo for commuting and it was in the shop about the same as yours, Chevy bought it back from us at full price minus mileage. All of this because the dash clock kept going out even after replacing the clock.


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Sorry to hear about your diesel grief. If there is anyway possible to get Chevy to make it right with that truck it would be my best advice.

That said, I have a 2007 Suburban that sits on a 2500 pick-up chasis, has the same 6.0 liter engine, but upgraded 4.10 gears which are lower and better for towing than 3:73's. Although this truck is very stable and does an acceptable job pulling my 28BHS, it's not exactly impressive for power. It gets the job done, but no where near what a Duramax will do.

Please consider persevering the grief and getting the Duramax fixed.


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## WYOCAMPER (Mar 28, 2007)

Lehnertfamily5 said:


> So we are looking at the 2008 chevy silverado hd it is the 6.0 vortec with a 3.73 something lol ( shows i am a girl) Will this pull my 2007 outback 28rsds without being too overloaded?
> 
> Thanks so much Leigh


Leigh,
I would research that truck a little further. I could be wrong, but I thought that the 2500's with the 6.0 gas all came with 4.10 gears instead of the 3.73's. I've owned a 6.0 gas 2500hd with 4.10's and it was a competent combo. Hopefully someone here can comment specifically on pulling an Outback with that truck. I agree that it will not do the job as easily as your diesel. Is it even a possibility to get your Duramax fixed?


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## Lehnertfamily5 (Apr 4, 2006)

[you know we had thought about just sticking it out and keep taking it in for repairs. BUt what about when the warranty runs out. Btw it has been in the shop for several different things nothing the same.

we had to have the steering linkage replace last month and the previous month was the egr valve and something else. and now the front bumper is loose and so are the lights ..it's insane. I am sure if i kept it it would be in the shop again for something else. I wish we wouldn't have ever bought the chevy and just stayed with our 2002 dodge cummins.

Leigh


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## ronmhagen (Jul 9, 2007)

Hi Leigh,

I own the truck similar to the one you are looking at and tow the 26kbrs pictured below.

It tows fine, but it will not tow as well as your diesel did. If I did it over again I would definitely get the 4:10 gears. The 6.0 is loaded with horsepower so it can tow a lot, but if you look at the specs on the engine you will see that the horsepower is generated at a higher rpm.

In my opinion I would prefer the 4:10 even while not towing. The engine is always at a low rpm while driving around town and imo in too high of a gear if anything. The 4:10 should help your throttle response at lower speeds.

Keep in mind the 6.0 will get considerably less mpg than that diesel had the potential for. In my opinion the 4:10 gears would not hurt your mpg at all unless freeway driving.


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## Bull Elk (Feb 28, 2005)

WYOCAMPER said:


> So we are looking at the 2008 chevy silverado hd it is the 6.0 vortec with a 3.73 something lol ( shows i am a girl) Will this pull my 2007 outback 28rsds without being too overloaded?
> 
> Thanks so much Leigh


Leigh,
I would research that truck a little further. I could be wrong, but I thought that the 2500's with the 6.0 gas all came with 4.10 gears instead of the 3.73's. I've owned a 6.0 gas 2500hd with 4.10's and it was a competent combo. Hopefully someone here can comment specifically on pulling an Outback with that truck. I agree that it will not do the job as easily as your diesel. Is it even a possibility to get your Duramax fixed?
[/quote]

Not to make light of you situation, but now I am scared that Gilligan took a job with Chevy.







Anyhow, I had a 2006 1500HD with the 6.0 4.10 and it did a good job of towing our 28rsds. It does run at high rpms and with any sort of head wind we looked at 6-7mpg towing, but it was very safe feeling. We switched to the Duramax this time around, because we might look at a 5ver in the future. Good Luck with whatever you decide.
Rich


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## nynethead (Sep 23, 2005)

I would first contact chevy about the diesel before pulling the trigger on the 07. I think maybe you have a bad dealer, you should be able to almost come out even on an 07 diesel for an 08 gasser. I wiould give it a little more time. I have an 06 and turned it into the dealer new to fix 4 things. since then I have 25K miles and just brought it in for the middle steering coulmn fix. they had it 2 hours and i have it back no charge. pulls like nothing else. my cousin who has an f350 just traded it in for an 08 duramax dually.

Hope everything works out for you and the family


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## bigdisneydaddy (Oct 26, 2007)

Lehnertfamily5 said:


> [you know we had thought about just sticking it out and keep taking it in for repairs. BUt what about when the warranty runs out. Btw it has been in the shop for several different things nothing the same.
> 
> we had to have the steering linkage replace last month and the previous month was the egr valve and something else. and now the front bumper is loose and so are the lights ..it's insane. I am sure if i kept it it would be in the shop again for something else. I wish we wouldn't have ever bought the chevy and just stayed with our 2002 dodge cummins.
> 
> Leigh


The intermediate shaft is a problem on all of the GM trucks, its not confined to the diesel, I agree its a PITA but they can be replaced easily enough and there are ways to add grease fittings to them to take away the slop.
Unfortunately the EGR has been a common problem, The permanent fix for that is to block it off. 
The bumper problem is something new to me, never heard of that. I have had mine for 3 yrs and 44k miles and wouldnt sell it for what I paid for it 3 yrs ago.

Maybe you need to look for a dealer that makes the process a little less painful when you take it in ?

Scott


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

California Jim said:


> Sorry to hear about your diesel grief. If there is anyway possible to get Chevy to make it right with that truck it would be my best advice.
> 
> That said, I have a 2007 Suburban that sits on a 2500 pick-up chasis, has the same 6.0 liter engine, but upgraded 4.10 gears which are lower and better for towing than 3:73's. Although this truck is very stable and does an acceptable job pulling my 28BHS, it's not exactly impressive for power. It gets the job done, but no where near what a Duramax will do.
> 
> Please consider persevering the grief and getting the Duramax fixed.


Jim is right. I have the 2007 2500HD Classic with 6.0L and 4:10 rear-end (which means I'm geared a little lower - hard on the fuel economy but more pulling power than the 3:73). We pull a 29BHS. It pulled adimirably to Florida and back last summer, for nearly 2800 miles. But we slowed down some pulling up the hills in KY, TN, GA, and AL. A Duramax diesel with the 6-speed Allison tranny would have not even worked up a sweat!

Spend some time browsing through this site: NHTSA Website You can search on your vehicle for recalls, Service Bulletins, known Defects, Defect Investigations, etc. Great website!

We chased electrical problems on my DW's 2002 Impala for three years. And then I found Service Bulletins and lists of complaints filed with the NHTSA. We finally pressured the dealer into replacing ECMs (brain box), sensors and other components that had been proven defective.

And the 2007 EPA requirements have all the diesel manufacturers struggling to meet requirements and still deliver a reliable engine - Cat, Cummins, Volvo, to name a few. (I work at one of these - and warranty costs are a concern.) I, like Jim, woud recommend that you just keep up with all the recalls, service bulletins, and complaints - and file complaints if necessary - and keep yourself from getting financially sideways out of frustration, by dumping a nearly new vehicle for another new vehicle (and I know how frustrating it can be!). Given time and your relentless, firm, but quiet attitude with your dealer's *Service Manager*, they will get things figured out. There will be fixes for every problem, with patience. (Remember, you have the 5-year, 100,000 mile power train warranty!)

In the end, you'll have a great truck that will pull any Outback built - and then some!

Good luck!

Mike


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## ELSEWHERE (Sep 16, 2007)

Lehnertfamily5 said:


> We took our 2007 duramax to the dealer to get rid of it because it is such a peice of crap . we have had it for 6 months and we have had it in the shop every month.
> 
> Come to find out we were to upside down on the truck to keep our payments where we wanted them for another diesel. They were talking 790.00 payment ( no way)
> 
> ...


We bought a 2008 GMC 2500HD extended cab, long bed with the 6.0L and 4.10 rearend last September. We also bought a 2008 Outback 27RLS in October. I retired in December and we left in January for warmer weather. In driving down the west coast, which is far from level, and through the southwest, also over mountain ranges, I've been very happy with our purchases. When we left home I weighed our combination. Full of food, clothes, etc., empty grey and black tanks, 1/3 full water and the 750# Harley in the truck bed with ramps and gear (about another 100#) we grossed 15,200#. The trailer is weighing a good 8,000# and the truck, with bike and gear, is over 7,000#. At 55 to 60 mph, level or hills, it cruises right along. At 70 to 75 it starts working, especially up hills. I'm sure a diesel wouldn't be working as hard. If I get in to the 8 mpg range I'm doing good. It's not uncommon to see low 7's if there are hills or a good headwind. I don't have the info available right now, I'm sure your dealer does, but I don't think the 3.73 gears makes a big difference in tw ratings. With the new 6-speed auto and it's tow/haul mode I wouldn't think you would have a hard time getting moving from a start, which is the major advantage of 4.10's. Unless that 28RSDS is a lot heavier than I think I doubt you would have a problem.

By the way, I was seriously considering a diesel but when I started reading about some of the new emissions gear, particularly the DPF system, I decided against being a potential guinea pig. Also paying anywhere from 30 to 60 cents/gallon more for diesel on the west coast didn't enthuse me either. Also keep in mind there is a difference in the 6.0L motors for 2007 and 2007 1/2. The 2007 1/2 and newer are stronger motors.

Hope this info helps...


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## GoVols (Oct 7, 2005)

You didn't mention if this was an 07 Classic or the new body style (post Jan. 1 2007 build). The 07 Classics will not have the additional pollution control stuff. As mentioned by others, GM has a design problem with the intermediate steering shaft. I have had 3 GM trucks in the past 13 years now, both required repair, and at 12,000 miles, the DMax is starting to get that clunky feel in the steering too. The EGRs are problematic also with all the brands.

I would suggest sticking it out another year if you can. You have taken a bath on depreciation the first year, and the vehicle should be under warranty for 5 years/100k miles on the power train. Once you go diesel, anything else will be a disappointment.


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## Rollrs45 (May 7, 2007)

nynethead said:


> I would first contact chevy about the diesel before pulling the trigger on the 07. I think maybe you have a bad dealer, you should be able to almost come out even on an 07 diesel for an 08 gasser. I wiould give it a little more time. I have an 06 and turned it into the dealer new to fix 4 things. since then I have 25K miles and just brought it in for the middle steering coulmn fix. they had it 2 hours and i have it back no charge. pulls like nothing else. my cousin who has an f350 just traded it in for an 08 duramax dually.
> 
> Hope everything works out for you and the family


That steering linkage seems to be a GM problem. I had an 05 Yukon and had the same thing occur. The dealer installed what they called a lube pack. When I got my D'Max I noticed the same vibration coming form the steering linkage. It seemed GM changed their approach and were no longer installing the lube pack, they were just replacing the whole linkage.

Every brand has some type of issues. The Dodge is notorious for bad gas mileage (I know, I owned one) and for Dodge, the transmission is their weak link. I'm like others who have chimed in.......... hold on to the D'Max and see if you can ride it out. If you're still having problems towards the end of your warranty period then look to replace it. Maybe by then you wont be buried on the payments. You might even get a better trade value given the prices of fuel these days. Dealerships are trying to unload their trucks, some offering 15K discounts. Whatever you decide, good luck and I hope it turns out for the best!

Mike


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## Scoutr2 (Aug 21, 2006)

Rollrs45 said:


> I would first contact chevy about the diesel before pulling the trigger on the 07. I think maybe you have a bad dealer, you should be able to almost come out even on an 07 diesel for an 08 gasser. I wiould give it a little more time. I have an 06 and turned it into the dealer new to fix 4 things. since then I have 25K miles and just brought it in for the middle steering coulmn fix. they had it 2 hours and i have it back no charge. pulls like nothing else. my cousin who has an f350 just traded it in for an 08 duramax dually.
> 
> Hope everything works out for you and the family


That steering linkage seems to be a GM problem. I had an 05 Yukon and had the same thing occur. The dealer installed what they called a lube pack. When I got my D'Max I noticed the same vibration coming form the steering linkage. It seemed GM changed their approach and were no longer installing the lube pack, they were just replacing the whole linkage.

Every brand has some type of issues. The Dodge is notorious for bad gas mileage (I know, I owned one) and for Dodge, the transmission is their weak link. I'm like others who have chimed in.......... hold on to the D'Max and see if you can ride it out. If you're still having problems towards the end of your warranty period then look to replace it. Maybe by then you wont be buried on the payments. You might even get a better trade value given the prices of fuel these days. Dealerships are trying to unload their trucks, some offering 15K discounts. Whatever you decide, good luck and I hope it turns out for the best!

Mike
[/quote]

The intermediate steering shaft defect is a problem throughout the entire Chevy product line, and it has been around since the late 1990s. It is an inferior design that has cost GM millions. You'd think they would redesign and stop the bleeding of warranty dollars. (Of course, we all pay for it every time we buy another one!) My wife's 2002 Impala has been in the shop 5 times for this same clunking feel/sound in the steering. It's been replaced twice, repacked with grease twice, and "exercised and greased" once. It's a known issue and has been for quite some time.

There is no safety concern, just a captive center shaft that fits too loosely in the upper and lower universals of the steering shaft. It makes noise and feels clunky.

Mike


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## bigdisneydaddy (Oct 26, 2007)

Scoutr2 said:


> I would first contact chevy about the diesel before pulling the trigger on the 07. I think maybe you have a bad dealer, you should be able to almost come out even on an 07 diesel for an 08 gasser. I wiould give it a little more time. I have an 06 and turned it into the dealer new to fix 4 things. since then I have 25K miles and just brought it in for the middle steering coulmn fix. they had it 2 hours and i have it back no charge. pulls like nothing else. my cousin who has an f350 just traded it in for an 08 duramax dually.
> 
> Hope everything works out for you and the family


That steering linkage seems to be a GM problem. I had an 05 Yukon and had the same thing occur. The dealer installed what they called a lube pack. When I got my D'Max I noticed the same vibration coming form the steering linkage. It seemed GM changed their approach and were no longer installing the lube pack, they were just replacing the whole linkage.

Every brand has some type of issues. The Dodge is notorious for bad gas mileage (I know, I owned one) and for Dodge, the transmission is their weak link. I'm like others who have chimed in.......... hold on to the D'Max and see if you can ride it out. If you're still having problems towards the end of your warranty period then look to replace it. Maybe by then you wont be buried on the payments. You might even get a better trade value given the prices of fuel these days. Dealerships are trying to unload their trucks, some offering 15K discounts. Whatever you decide, good luck and I hope it turns out for the best!

Mike
[/quote]

The intermediate steering shaft defect is a problem throughout the entire Chevy product line, and it has been around since the late 1990s. It is an inferior design that has cost GM millions. You'd think they would redesign and stop the bleeding of warranty dollars. (Of course, we all pay for it every time we buy another one!) My wife's 2002 Impala has been in the shop 5 times for this same clunking feel/sound in the steering. It's been replaced twice, repacked with grease twice, and "exercised and greased" once. It's a known issue and has been for quite some time.

There is no safety concern, just a captive center shaft that fits too loosely in the upper and lower universals of the steering shaft. It makes noise and feels clunky.

Mike
[/quote]

I replaced the one on my 99 at 38,000 miles and at 64,000 it was getting sloppy again. I drilled and placed a grease fitting in it (while still on the truck) and then pumped about 10 shots of grease in it, its like brand new for the last 500 miles. I figure a shot of grease is cheaper than buying another new one for $90. 
The one in my 05 was replaced at 18,000 miles and is still good at 44,000 so I am hoping that one will do better, I still have more grease fittings just in case. 
Scott


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## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

Lots of talk about the steering shaft clunk. Here is the easy and inexpensive fix that I use with photos. Page one of the thread has more info. This works and lasts for over a year. As previously stated the noise is not a safety issue, just annoying.
http://Outbackers.com/forums/index.php?topic=925.15


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## battalionchief3 (Jun 27, 2006)

Mine has the same clunky feeling, but not really while towing....Older Dodge trucks had a big wearing out problem years ago and could not make a good left turn to safe its own life. Hello...big 3 auto makers..... how about a little R&D.....

Here might be a fix...

http://www.hotrodssuperstore.com/19chevfulsiz1.html


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## OutbackPM (Sep 14, 2005)

GoVols said:


> .... the DMax is starting to get that clunky feel in the steering too.
> 
> I would suggest sticking it out another year if you can. You have taken a bath on depreciation the first year, and the vehicle should be under warranty for 5 years/100k miles on the power train. Once you go diesel, anything else will be a disappointment.


 I have 27,000 on mine now and I have the clunky stearing issue as I had with my 2001 1500. I have heard but not confirmed that GM has a new up graded stearing intermediate shaft to fix this problem once an for all. Worth contacting the dealer when its convenient.

I would also agree that you should not be having anything serious with you Dmax and should stay on the dealer to put it right. The Dmax seems to be doing very well from what I have read about them. I know mine is so far and you should be under warranty as I am.

Good luck


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## Rubrhammer (Nov 27, 2006)

OutbackPM said:


> .... the DMax is starting to get that clunky feel in the steering too.
> 
> I would suggest sticking it out another year if you can. You have taken a bath on depreciation the first year, and the vehicle should be under warranty for 5 years/100k miles on the power train. Once you go diesel, anything else will be a disappointment.


 I have 27,000 on mine now and I have the clunky stearing issue as I had with my 2001 1500. I have heard but not confirmed that GM has a new up graded stearing intermediate shaft to fix this problem once an for all. Worth contacting the dealer when its convenient.

I would also agree that you should not be having anything serious with you Dmax and should stay on the dealer to put it right. The Dmax seems to be doing very well from what I have read about them. I know mine is so far and you should be under warranty as I am.

Good luck
[/quote]
Save your energy on the "new GM fix". Slip some grease in it once a year and forget it. Mine is 8 yrs old with 104,00 miles on the original shaft and I've only greased it twice. I've read truck forums where guys have gotten each "new" fix GM puts out and they _still_ have the clunk come back. Doing the fi I recommended in an earlier post is easier than greasing the front end (if you don't have a hoist for the grease job).
Bob


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