# Quickie Flush Install Dilemma



## SurferZ (Feb 18, 2006)

So after viewing all the previous posts/gallery of other member's quickie Flush mods I decided to have a look at the under belly on my 06' 25rss.
It seems I am confronted with 2 options:

1) If I install it in the place recommended, a support frame is blocking the way In order to accomplish this the only viable way I can see would be to use a hole saw making a 3" hole in the frame in order to get access to the side of the black tank and squeeze the QF through the hole to be mounted in the tank. Naturally the concern is the geometry and stability of the frame after making the 3" hole, would this negatively affect the structural integrity of that frame piece and or make the trailer unstable?
I do not have a degree in structural engineering so I cannot answer.

2nd option, install the QF on the opposite side of the black tank, no frame is present but it will now be on the same side as the drain and sensors.

I guess I am just looking for some feed back, this would bprobably void the warranty if I went with the first option but it still pisses me off the plcaement of the tank to the frame.

Are there any other options? (besides taking the whole frame out and rewelding it)
thanks for the input!


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## Humpty (Apr 20, 2005)

2nd option, install the QF on the opposite side of the black tank, no frame is present but it will now be on the same side as the drain and sensors.

That is what I did!

No direct shot to the sensors, but mine still work fine.

I think some have used a small 90 degree drill to get between the tank and the frame.

BTW, I also installed one on the Grey tank. Thought I might as well since I was under there.

Good Luck


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

SurferZ,

From a structural engineering point of view, drilling through the web (vertical components of the beam) should not weaken the beam. Drilling through the flange (horizontal components of the beam) is a big no-no. Notice, I said 'should not weaken'! I don't recall how tall the beam is, and that could be a factor. You also need to consider introducing the possibility for future corrosion at the cut, if not properly protected.

As far as mounting on the same side of the tank as the sensors is concerned, that is what we did, and the QuickieFlush works fine. Make a note of where the side holes are on the nozzle, and you can kind of aim them a little bit towards the sensors.

Happy Trails,
Doug


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## California Jim (Dec 11, 2003)

Mount it on one of the sides (driver / passenger) if possible. Mine works fine this way and was easy to get to. No way I would go to the trouble of drilling or notching the frame.


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## SurferZ (Feb 18, 2006)

Ok then, i am gonna stay away from the frame. Its just a flush nozzle anyway.
I'll take the least path of resistance.


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## wicandthing (Jul 11, 2005)

Actually, drilling through the vertical portion of the beam is the big no-no. The vertical part is the strength of the beam. The horizontal is just there to keep it vertical and prevent horizontal deflection. Take a look at any construction manual and it will have a table showing how big a hole/notch on a beam is allowed and where. Same type of tables apply to steel as well.


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

Ok I"m guilty of drilling that cheezy crossmember that is thinner than the plastic of the black tank. I believe I used a 2 1/2" holesaw. I wouldn't consider that steel to be structural but then I'm just an electrician. Have fun which ever way you choose.

John


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## SurferZ (Feb 18, 2006)

Just so we're clear, the crossmember that goes side to side of the TT is the one I am looking at and yes its about 1/16 of an inch thick. NOT the metal frame that goes lengthwise down the TT body.

BTW, ther are already holes preset into this frame, my guess would be to run cabling front to back.


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## Katrina (Dec 16, 2004)

take the path of least resistance.
Mine works fine on the same side as the sensors.


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## johnp (Mar 15, 2004)

Holesaw


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## tdvffjohn (Mar 10, 2005)

Katrina said:


> take the path of least resistance.
> Mine works fine on the same side as the sensors.
> [snapback]88038[/snapback]​


Mine too









John


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## Ghosty (Jan 17, 2005)

I did a number two (no pun intended) ...

I mounted it left of the outlet pipe... still works fine...


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## PDX_Doug (Nov 16, 2004)

wicandthing said:


> Actually, drilling through the vertical portion of the beam is the big no-no.Â The vertical part is the strength of the beam.Â The horizontal is just there to keep it vertical and prevent horizontal deflection.Â Take a look at any construction manual and it will have a table showing how big a hole/notch on a beam is allowed and where.Â Same type of tables apply to steel as well.
> [snapback]88013[/snapback]​


I strongly disagree, Wic.

The strength of the beam is from the tension the bottom flange is subjected to when a load - and bending - is applied to the top of the beam. Next time you are in a large open ceiling building (warehouse, etc.) take a look at the roof trusses. There is hardly any material at all making up the very open webs. What is there, is simply to transfer the load to that lower flange.

Sorry, this is simple Structures 101 stuff! I'm not sure what your background is, and I'm not looking to pick a fight, but I spent over twenty years in the industry, designing exactly this sort of thing. I like to think that those buildings are still standing by more than just dumb luck on my part!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## kjdj (Sep 14, 2004)

3" conduit punch. Works great. The end jet shoots across right into the dump pipe.


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## SurferZ (Feb 18, 2006)

Thanks for everyone's input. 
I ended up putting it in the place of least resistance, nex t to the sensors, it was pretty easy actually. The biggest pain in the ass was making it through the under belly.
I think though the placement of the external connection will need to change, I really like Doug's custom job in the gallery.


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## wicandthing (Jul 11, 2005)

PDX_Doug said:


> wicandthing said:
> 
> 
> > Actually, drilling through the vertical portion of the beam is the big no-no.Â The vertical part is the strength of the beam.Â The horizontal is just there to keep it vertical and prevent horizontal deflection.Â Take a look at any construction manual and it will have a table showing how big a hole/notch on a beam is allowed and where.Â Same type of tables apply to steel as well.
> ...


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## hurricaneplumber (Apr 12, 2004)

On mine I removed the toilet and the black tank support brackets, this allowed me to move the tank enough where I could slip in the quickie flush, I cut the hole in the tank with my Roto-zip. To install the hose, I drilled a hole small enough to pass it through the steel support member, this kept the hole small and allowed a straight flow of water at the quickie connection. Then re-installed the tank supports and toilet.

So now my flusher aims at the outlet and sensors.

Whether it is right or wrong, all I know is it works and works very well.

Those darn structural engineers always mess up my great mechanical designs, although they are better than architects
















good luck

k


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## LateralG (Feb 11, 2006)

PDX_Doug said:


> I strongly disagree, Wic.
> 
> The strength of the beam is from the tension the bottom flange is subjected to when a load - and bending - is applied to the top of the beam. Next time you are in a large open ceiling building (warehouse, etc.) take a look at the roof trusses. There is hardly any material at all making up the very open webs. What is there, is simply to transfer the load to that lower flange.
> 
> ...


Doug speaks the truth!


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## HootBob (Apr 26, 2004)

LateralG said:


> PDX_Doug said:
> 
> 
> > I strongly disagree, Wic.
> ...


He sure does









Don


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