# Equilizer Sway Control Hitch... Loose In My Receiver



## Aluminum UFO (Jul 1, 2016)

I received an Equalizer Hitch with my trailer purchase. It is intended to fit a 2" receiver, but it was loose in my 2014 Tundra and my current 2016 F350 Ford receiver.

When I say... loose... once inserted I can move it left and right, up and down. It does not slide in snug and firmly. It is less than a 1/16" or so...but still enough to make one curious.

Does anyone else experience the same issue of this loose fit?

I had a 2006 Tundra and the hitch that used the chains to adjust that fit snug into the receiver. It was included in the sale of my first trailer.

Is this expected? If not, what is the cure? If it is suppose to fit loosely into the receiver, what is the purpose?

This is my first post on the Outbackers... I sent earlier this evening two emails to Equal-i-zer Sway Control Hitch in Utah for the same answer. Some times it does not hurt to hear from the USER and the SELLER to get the story straight.

Thank you for your experience with this hitch. Even loose it works well, but has bothered me.


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## Todd&Regan (Jul 1, 2010)

All hitches will be a bit loose. It shouldn't be loose once your trailer is hooked up and your spring bars are adjusted correctly. The spring bars will lift the hitch up.


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## MikeR/T (Jul 21, 2014)

On my F-250, the receiver is 2 1/2" with an adapter for 2" But there is still quite a bit of play in it.

I just ordered a 2 1/2" draw bar from eTrailer.com. Hopefully that will be a tighter fit.


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## Aluminum UFO (Jul 1, 2016)

I am currently corresponding with Equalizer customer support concerning this slop between the shank and receiver.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

Mine is the same way. I believe it is normal. If it fit much tighter it would be difficult to get the shank in or out of the receiver.


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## rdvholtwood (Sep 18, 2008)

Aluminum UFO said:


> I am currently corresponding with Equalizer customer support concerning this slop between the shank and receiver.


Probably the best thing you could do; Let us know what they tell you. I have the same hitch that moves around the same way and never had any issues with it.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

I've yet to see a hitch that doesn't have play in the receiver. Now, a 2" shank, and 2.5" adapter in a 2.5" hitch adds to the play since EACH has play.

However, Once the trailer is hooked up, especially with WD the play basically disappears. You WD puts a 500-1500lb upward force on the shank, basically keeping it from moving.


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## deepvee16 (Jan 27, 2014)

None of these are a tolerance fit, they all have some degree of slop. It's just the way it is, there's nothing to worry about.


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## thefulminator (Aug 8, 2007)

deepvee16 said:


> None of these are a tolerance fit, they all have some degree of slop. It's just the way it is, there's nothing to worry about.


I would like to ask if any other brands of hitch are any different in how much slop they have.


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## KTMRacer (Jun 28, 2010)

thefulminator said:


> deepvee16 said:
> 
> 
> > None of these are a tolerance fit, they all have some degree of slop. It's just the way it is, there's nothing to worry about.
> ...


I've used probably over a dozen stingers in 5 different vehicles. All have noticeable play, all seem to be about the same amount of play, although I've never measured it exactly, but subjectively they all seem to have been about the same amount.

What I can say, even with very noticeable play if they stay in during the rainy season, surface rust is enough to requires some extra work to pull them out. IMHO if it was a tight fit, they could be very very hard to get out with any surface rust buildup, which IS going to happen with the type of steel used in the receiver and stinger.


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## Good Times (Jan 23, 2012)

Also looking for the input you received from Equilizer as I'm towing with the same setup....I do have the 2.5" receiver and am using the reducer that came with the truck to the 2" size.....I don't have huge concern for the little bit of movement while just pinned in as everything is extremely tight once the distribution bars are properly loaded....then nothing moves in the hitch receiver!!


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## Aluminum UFO (Jul 1, 2016)

Rod... my answer to your question... "what did you hear from customer support"?.

The Expert's response:

Rather than using the reducer from 2.5" to 2.0", buy a 2.5" shank. "The the weight distribution, the shank is pushed UP and that takes care of the slop". I have pair of 1,000 pound bars.

I think to myself... Prove it. Some say it bangs around a lot when moving.

I am going to try to put a shim of USP Coil Strap, 22 gauge, 25 feet originally coiled in carton. I used about four feet to secure some stairs onto our deck, so have a lifetime of strap to use. If I fold it to double its thickness and leave it long enough, I will check shortly how that fits. Even if I can take out 50% or more of the slop, it cannot hurt.

It is just a matter of experimenting.

2.5" Shank for Equalizer Hitch:

Retails for $185.00 at Equalizer.

ETrailer sells the 2.5" including shipping for $139.00 with a four day delivery.

No Equalizer service shop in Littleton, Colorado kept a 2.5" shank in stock. (I wanted to try the fit and none to be found locally.)

This would decrease the slop to the thickness of a ten cent coin using the 2.5" shank.

Using the 2.0" shank and sleeve the slop is the thickness of a dime and quarter combined. That is another solution... but for $139.00. Removes the 25 cent thickness of slop down to a dime. The strap costs ZERO and if it slips out... I have lots more.

'Good Times' is right when your trailer is attached... and parked. When you get moving over irregular roads and Forest Service gravel... I would like to have a video of what is going on. Everyone knows about the slop. They say it is needed so your shank does not get stuck. Which is true. While using some steel a bit thicker than a 25 cent coin, I needed a bumper jack to pull the shank out of the receiver.

So... the sloppy shank story keeps getting longer. I have seen photographs of receivers that look hammered on the outside edge. One guy says he lets it all RUST solid. I will pass... but it works for him.


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## CamperAndy (Aug 26, 2004)

Bite the bullet and get the correct stinger for your Truck/trailer.


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## RLM5150 (May 18, 2016)

CamperAndy said:


> Bite the bullet and get the correct stinger for your Truck/trailer.


I agree. $139 seems like a bargain to eliminate a nuisance. I paid 186 for mine from the dealer, and it was worth it to me.


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## Aluminum UFO (Jul 1, 2016)

I have to agree with Camper Andy and ditto with RLM5150. I called two dealers in the Denver, Colorado area so I could check the fit of the 2.5" stinger... and they would have to... order one from Equalizer AFTER my purchase. They are Equalizer dealers. How fly by night can a dealer be, when they do not stock some basic parts as a supplier?

Something that came up was on the Airstream Forum on a similar discussion. This time the two pivots that hold the sway bars.

When I purchased the trailer the dealer also sold me the hitch for the 25 footer and matched to my 2012 Tundra Crew Max 4x4 5.7L pickup. The sway bar pivots that they fit into on the Hitch were very easy to swing back and forth. On an Equalizer thread the complaint was... "The sway bar pivots are difficult to swing". What??? Mine were easily moved when getting the hitch ready to attach to the trailer.

To discover on the fine print on the Equalizer Hitch that the bolts are to be torqued at 45 pounds. Mine, from the Airstream Dealer in Denver, maybe 30 pounds if I were being generous. The lock washers, both, were flat... and from a visual would appear to have been assembled correctly. They were NOT.

The washers were not even done correctly to set the ball to my trailer's hitch, and I had to purchase washers (Grade 3? A hard steel washer) to get it correct. Thank You... Dealer.

I torqued both bolts to 45 pounds and they are... snug. With the length of the sway bar/equalizer they move with some effort. I did notice from the initial dealer's set up that being loose, also caused the edges of the pivots were cutting a groove into the flat hitch surface. Now... that should not happen.

Those of you with an Equalizer Hitch... check your swinging pivots. If they are easy to move... check the torque. Some trailer owners said 40 pounds was tight, and others went to 50 pounds on well used hitches. Just do not make the assumption when you leave the Trailer Sales dealership that everything is done correctly. Just check it out.

Getting wiser every time I find something to fix, tighten, replace or upgrade. Some day... I might just know all I need to know.


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## mj1angier (Jul 15, 2016)

Off-topic. Started new thread.


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## Aluminum UFO (Jul 1, 2016)

First... check the pivoting sockets that the two Hitch Arms fit into with the pin. They should be torqued to 45 pounds. The bolt and lock washer is beneath the sockets, so I turn the hitch upside down and insert into my vehicle's receiver. This way I can torque the nuts.

If you do not have a torque wrench, first check the looseness of these two sockets. If they move easily... too loose. When at 45 pounds they move with the hitch arm inserted, but difficult to move if you do it by hand. Apply light grease to keep them from rusting and some lubrication to reduce wear.

If the sockets and hitch arms move with effort, many will grease the contact of the hitch arm and friction part of the sway control bracket. It reduces the noises, but some say it also negates some of the sway feature while towing. I have not had an issue, but am going to try it without grease now that my surfaces are worn and polished from towing.

Equalizer sells some attachment on the sliding surface to reduce the noise. Grease worked for me, but messy to clean up.

The more weight transfer, the more friction, the more noise.

Good luck mj1. Use trial and error and what works best for you.


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## OHIOJERRY (Apr 18, 2016)

When I bought my 326rl the dealer installed a 2" E2 into my truck's 2.5" receiver. You talk about a lot of slop and banging noises. I questioned them about it and they said it was fine and when the weight of the trailer sits on it there would be no movement. I still wasn't comfortable with the setup so I inserted one of those 2.5" to 2" sleeves into the receiver. Still has a little slop and some banging noises when not towing. As far as I know it's just something I'll have to live with.


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## Aluminum UFO (Jul 1, 2016)

Hello Jerry. My Ford F350 came with the 2.5" receiver and the 2.0" sleeve reducer when new from the Dealer. The sleeve has a loose fit into the 2.5" opening, and the 2.0" sleeve has slop fitted into the 2.5" receiver. The total slop is about the thickness of a dime and a quarter dollar stacked. If I can reduce the slop to the thickness of a dime... I would be content.

Equalizer recommends that you convert the hitch to 2.5" 'stinger' to reduce the slop. I would take off the hardware, buy a new 'stinger' and reattach the hardware. This would eliminate the quarter dollar of slop, down to a dime's thickness. About $100. If what I have been told... is true.

I will try to shim the quarter dollar of slop out. If not, it will be going to replacing the 2.0" with a 2.5" 'stinger'. But will keep the old stinger in the event I change vehicles some day and need to reverse it all.

You have already figured it out. I am going to snug it up by a removable metal shimming.


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## Leedek (Nov 28, 2010)

mj1angier said:


> We pulled from the bay over to their campground for the first night as a trail run of camper. Heard what I think were normal clunks in turns Un-hooked to go out for supper.
> 
> Reattached the next day .... As we were making turns in town, we get a loud chatter sound...Wife watched while I made slow turns. She thinks chatter is coming from arms sliding on L brackets.
> 
> I have order the bracket covers, jackets...


This thread is talking about 2" and 2.5" receivers and stingers. so your question is somewhat off topic. Some members are talking Chain and Spring WD hitches with anti-sway and some are talking receiver / stinger stuff. It can get confusing for sure.

I believe you are talking about the Equalizer 4-point sway control hitch. The spring bars rest in L brackets and create friction/tension to control sway movement. Here is the link to view this hitch: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/About%20Equal-i-zer/fourpoint.php

Before I back into the RV park lot I usually remove the spring bars. The added effort to raise the trailer by the tongue jack and remove bars is compensated by not having the moaning and groaning when backing. I have found it to be advantageous to pull the trailer out from any uneven ground park place also. My home RV parking place is on a slant and getting the bars in place gets to be unsafe. I pull the trailer from the place and hitch up when I'm on level ground in front of my home.

The jacket covers you have on order are a good investment. Sway Bracket Jackets link here: http://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=66&zenid=84b41cb9c6d84157d798ad2bcf9aa207 They quiet down the trailer when moving in tight radius. Just keep in mind that you DO NOT want to lubricate the L-brackets. The springs get their anti-sway function from the friction/tension between them and the brackets.

This Equalizer 4-point sway control weight distribution anti-sway hitch is the best on the market as far as I'm concerned. Good luck!

Leigh


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## RLM5150 (May 18, 2016)

OHIOJERRY said:


> When I bought my 326rl the dealer installed a 2" E2 into my truck's 2.5" receiver. You talk about a lot of slop and banging noises. I questioned them about it and they said it was fine and when the weight of the trailer sits on it there would be no movement. I still wasn't comfortable with the setup so I inserted one of those 2.5" to 2" sleeves into the receiver. Still has a little slop and some banging noises when not towing. As far as I know it's just something I'll have to live with.


WOW! Whoever did that at the dealer is an outright idiot. You never do that without using the adaptor. Good thing you used your head, knew it wasn't right, and had the adaptor to use.


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## Good Times (Jan 23, 2012)

Update with new condition......I recently towed from Michigan to Colorado using the spacer with my 12K Equil-I-zer. Estimate that we towed about 3200 miles for this trip. I noticed that the Ford spacer was getting harder and harder to remove from the 2.5" hitch, then to the point I couldn't get it out without forcing with hammer and vice grips. To make the story short, my 2.5 hitch is deformed from the movement allowed by the slop in the system using the spacer. Being that my 350 is only a few months old, I held Ford accountable asking for their review as a warranty issue as they say towing like this is acceptable. Ford is covering the replacement of the hitch and the spacer. I will no longer be using the spacer for towing our RV, only for light duty utility trailers around town..... I have adapted the 12k EQ to the 2.5" drawbar. Stay tuned as that will be "up for sale" soon as we are in process of ordering a 5th wheel...... Anybody want a 2012 301BQ???


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