# Equalizer Hitch Torques



## Nathan

Ok, so I was messing with the equalizer hitch today and noticed the bolts holding the L brackets were loose. These are the single bolt which tightens to hold the vertical adjsutment of the L bracket. So obviously I didn't torque it enough last time. The problem is that the online manual has changed since equalizer went to 2 bolts holding the L brackets. So anyone know what torque I should target?


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## rdvholtwood

I've double checked the owners manual and didn't find anything about torque values. I only check them each time I head out and snug them up as needed. This is what the manual instructs as part of the intial setup. I do have one side that is loose and no matter how much I try to tighten it - it stays the same.

Maybe Andy will know.


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## CamperAndy

Unless the manufacture has a specific torque for them you will need to find out what grade bolt, size and threads per inch. Then I can tell you the standard torque for that specific bolt.


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## Kevin K

The manual doesn't spec a torque - torque the bolts until the middle of the bracket starts to deflect from the frame then stop. The friction on the middle of the frame keeps it from walking.


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## Wisconsin-Knight

If you are talking about the two bolts that bolt to the frame on each side, nylon insert nuts would help keep these tight. I just installed new bolts. The originals were threaded the entire length of the bolt, which allows for trailers with thin frames, which we don't have, so might as well use a plane 4 inch bolt.

If you are talking about the square set screw bolts, the best bet is probably to use 5/8-11 jam nuts. Equilizer is now selling these. They have a nylok insert. The idea is to tighten the jam nut up against the brackt and this keeps the bolt from loosening. The set screws do not enter the holes like I expected. If they did, the threads would get messed up and you couldn't loosen the bolts. Thus, they just put the point of the bolt in the hole. The problem is that if the bolts loosen up a couple turns, I think you could lose the L-bracket. My final fix was to get longer set screws (2 in.) from fastenal and full size locknutsw to fit the screws. Rowland


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## Nathan

Wisconsin-Knight said:


> If you are talking about the two bolts that bolt to the frame on each side, nylon insert nuts would help keep these tight. I just installed new bolts. The originals were threaded the entire length of the bolt, which allows for trailers with thin frames, which we don't have, so might as well use a plane 4 inch bolt.
> 
> If you are talking about the square set screw bolts, the best bet is probably to use 1/2-13 jam nuts. Equilizer is now selling these. They have a nylok insert. The idea is to tighten the jam nut up against the brackt and this keeps the bolt from loosening. The set screws do not enter the holes like I expected. If they did, the threads would get messed up and you couldn't loosen the bolts. Thus, they just put the point of the bolt in the hole. The problem is that if the bolts loosen up a couple turns, I think you could lose the L-bracket. I just bought a packet of 10 nylok insert stainless jamnuts. I only need two, so if someone wants a couple let me know. Rowland


Yes, it's the square set screw bolts. I tightened them and towed 40 miles, and they were loose again. As they loosen, the L bracket can wiggle and allow for sway. I pulled the first 10-15 miles with no issues, and then I started getting some sway. I bet that was when they loosened. I'm going to try to call equalizer tonight and see what they say. They changed the trailer brackets this year so there are 2 bolts holding each L bracket in place. Maybe I can just get a set of those. Otherwise, I like the jam nut idea. Thanks.


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## CamperAndy

Nathan said:


> If you are talking about the two bolts that bolt to the frame on each side, nylon insert nuts would help keep these tight. I just installed new bolts. The originals were threaded the entire length of the bolt, which allows for trailers with thin frames, which we don't have, so might as well use a plane 4 inch bolt.
> 
> If you are talking about the square set screw bolts, the best bet is probably to use 1/2-13 jam nuts. Equilizer is now selling these. They have a nylok insert. The idea is to tighten the jam nut up against the brackt and this keeps the bolt from loosening. The set screws do not enter the holes like I expected. If they did, the threads would get messed up and you couldn't loosen the bolts. Thus, they just put the point of the bolt in the hole. The problem is that if the bolts loosen up a couple turns, I think you could lose the L-bracket. I just bought a packet of 10 nylok insert stainless jamnuts. I only need two, so if someone wants a couple let me know. Rowland


Yes, it's the square set screw bolts. I tightened them and towed 40 miles, and they were loose again. As they loosen, the L bracket can wiggle and allow for sway. I pulled the first 10-15 miles with no issues, and then I started getting some sway. I bet that was when they loosened. I'm going to try to call equalizer tonight and see what they say. They changed the trailer brackets this year so there are 2 bolts holding each L bracket in place. Maybe I can just get a set of those. Otherwise, I like the jam nut idea. Thanks.
[/quote]

Now that I see which bolts you are talking about, that application requires a jam nut for sure.


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## Wisconsin-Knight

Nathan,
. I really think that these bolts should be cotter pinned like the nuts on your wheel bearings. In this case, a person would have to cross drill the square nut welded to the bracket and then drill through the bolt when it was almost tight and insert a cotter pin. The deal is that the tips of the bolts enter the holes, not the whole bolt. If the bolt were just a little loose in order to get the cotter pin in, that would be better than a situation where the bolt could come completely loose. I plan to put a bolt in the top hole of the bracket so that it can't fall completely out. I just purchased safety pin type hitch pins and drilled out the L shaped brackets for the 1/4 inch safety pins. I also got larger safety pin type pins for the sway bars. That way I won't have to deal with the little pins that hold the hitch pins on.

Rowland


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## Dub

Wisconsin-Knight said:


> Nathan,
> Send my your address at [email protected] and I will send you two stainless nylock nuts. I really think that these bolts should be cotter pinned like the nuts on your wheel bearings. In this case, a person would have to cross drill the square nut welded to the bracket and then drill through the bolt when it was almost tight and insert a cotter pin. The deal is that the tips of the bolts enter the holes, not the whole bolt. If the bolt were just a little loose in order to get the cotter pin in, that would be better than a situation where the bolt could come completely loose. I plan to put a bolt in the top hole of the bracket so that it can't fall completely out. I just purchased safety pin type hitch pins and drilled out the L shaped brackets for the 1/4 inch safety pins. I also got larger safety pin type pins for the sway bars. That way I won't have to deal with the little pins that hold the hitch pins on.
> 
> I am not surprised that Equalizer is putting on two bolts. I am surprised they haven't been sued by now. (They probably have.) I'm not angry, I just think that they could have done a little better engineering job.
> 
> Rowland


I think this poor design is why my L brackets twisted loose and broke off. They seemed to know all about the issue when I called and later I found out they added another bolt.


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## Wisconsin-Knight

L-Brackets or L-Pins? The L-Brackets have the square hole in them for the L-pins. Did the L-Brackets break?

Rowland


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## Nathan

I called Equalizer. They suggested loctite on the current design. They also will sell the parts to upgrade to the new design for under a hundred dollars. I'm debating between the different options out there. I'll let you know what I decide.


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## rdvholtwood

Hmm...my L brackets are tightened to the max - I'm positive, but, the one I can move side to side. The only problems I have had with those brackets are with the actual pins getting pretty banged up. Despite that, I haven't had any problems towing and after a recent inspection the inspection center told me that I had everything setup properly.


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## thefulminator

Just talked to Equalizer too. Here is the installation manual for the older style L-brackets. The customer service guy said that most of their employees still use the older style L-brackets and they don't really see a reason to change to the new style.


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## Dub

Wisconsin-Knight said:


> L-Brackets or L-Pins? The L-Brackets have the square hole in them for the L-pins. Did the L-Brackets break?
> 
> Rowland


Yes, the L brackets, not the L-pins. I think it was because there was too much movement with one bolt. Didn't break until I had about 25K towing on it.


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## rdvholtwood

thefulminator said:


> Just talked to Equalizer too. Here is the installation manual for the older style L-brackets. The customer service guy said that most of their employees still use the older style L-brackets and they don't really see a reason to change to the new style.


Thanks for the info....this manual shows the older style L bracket info. Equalizer has new re-designed L brackets that Nathan had mentioned:



If you follow the link to their support section you can see how it is assembled....

New L Bracket Assembly

For existing customers, the upgrade to the new L (part# 95-01-05600) brackets are $99.95.


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## Wisconsin-Knight

I just talked to Equalizer to see if I could buy just a few parts and not spend $100.00 for the upgrade. Evidently not, the outer plate for the new design costs $30.00 each and you also need new L-brackets since they changed the hole spacing. The upgrade kit is $99.00. The special deal they have is to sell you everything on the trailer tongue for that price, this would normally cost $159.00. I think the upgrade should be free since you have already paid $600.00 for something that had an engineering problem. Nevertheless, the new design has the plate that is bolted to the tongue milled in the back so the bolt doesn't turn when you tighten the nut on the outside. This was necessary since you can't get to the head of the bolt because it is against the tongue. They could have welded it, and I think they could have used a single larger stud but there is really nothing wrong with the new design. I am not going to upgrade,
I am going to use nylock jam nuts and also Loc-Tite as suggested by Equalizer. It is interesting that when I pointed out that the nuts used on the new system are not jam-nuts, they said they were at first, but they have switched to full sized nuts. Evidently they were trying to get rid of their inventory of jam nuts when they first put this design out, or they were too lazy to order new nuts for the new product. I think we can probably put this baby to rest at this point. I have also considered putting a set screw in the side of the nut to hold the square headed set screw from turning.

Rowland


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## Wisconsin-Knight

The beat goes on. I just discovered that the set screws are not 1/2-13, they are 5/8-11. I purchased a couple 5/8 jam nuts and discovered the original set screws are too short to use them. I have thus ordered two square headed 5/8-11 set screws 2 inches long and a couple 5/8 jam nuts from Fastenal Company. The total cost is around $4.00 less shipping.

Rowland


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## john7349

Wisconsin-Knight said:


> The beat goes on. I just discovered that the set screws are not 1/2-13, they are 5/8-11. I purchased a couple 5/8 jam nuts and discovered the original set screws are too short to use them. I have thus ordered two square headed 5/8-11 set screws 2 inches long and a couple 5/8 jam nuts from Fastenal Company. The total cost is around $4.00 less shipping.
> 
> Rowland


Good information. THANKS


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## Nathan

Ok, the new brackets for the Equalizer have arrived. I also got the bracket jackets at the same time. Installation timing is TBD, but I'd guess in the next few weeks.


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## rdvholtwood

Nathan said:


> Ok, the new brackets for the Equalizer have arrived. I also got the bracket jackets at the same time. Installation timing is TBD, but I'd guess in the next few weeks.


I am thinking about getting the new brackets also - let me know what you think...Also..what are the bracket jackets for?


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## Wisconsin-Knight

The bracket jackets are plastic jackets that fit over the small "L" shaped brackets that hold the torsion bars to the large "L" brackets. According to Equalizer, you get the best sway control with no grease on the "L" brackets, a little less sway control with grease on the "L" brackets and even less sway control if you put the plastic jackets on.
With grease, you cut down the sound of the bars when you turn and with the plastic jackets you cut down the mess caused by the grease. I plan to just run without grease until I find I can't stand the noise. It seems to me that a person could try wrapping tape on the bars to cut down on the noise. I think the plastic jackets are kind of a gimmick or I would get them. Rowland


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## rdvholtwood

Wisconsin-Knight said:


> The bracket jackets are plastic jackets that fit over the small "L" shaped brackets that hold the torsion bars to the large "L" brackets. According to Equalizer, you get the best sway control with no grease on the "L" brackets, a little less sway control with grease on the "L" brackets and even less sway control if you put the plastic jackets on.
> With grease, you cut down the sound of the bars when you turn and with the plastic jackets you cut down the mess caused by the grease. I plan to just run without grease until I find I can't stand the noise. It seems to me that a person could try wrapping tape on the bars to cut down on the noise. I think the plastic jackets are kind of a gimmick or I would get them. Rowland


I don't mind the noise - lets me know its working


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## Wisconsin-Knight

rdvholtwood said:


> The bracket jackets are plastic jackets that fit over the small "L" shaped brackets that hold the torsion bars to the large "L" brackets. According to Equalizer, you get the best sway control with no grease on the "L" brackets, a little less sway control with grease on the "L" brackets and even less sway control if you put the plastic jackets on.
> With grease, you cut down the sound of the bars when you turn and with the plastic jackets you cut down the mess caused by the grease. I plan to just run without grease until I find I can't stand the noise. It seems to me that a person could try wrapping tape on the bars to cut down on the noise. I think the plastic jackets are kind of a gimmick or I would get them. Rowland


I don't mind the noise - lets me know its working








[/quote]

I think that will be my decision also!


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## Nathan

Ok, installed the new brackets tonight in ~30 minutes:








First take off the old hardware

















New hardware:









And torque to specs in same position as old hardware:


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## Nathan

Wisconsin-Knight said:


> The bracket jackets are plastic jackets that fit over the small "L" shaped brackets that hold the torsion bars to the large "L" brackets. According to Equalizer, you get the best sway control with no grease on the "L" brackets, a little less sway control with grease on the "L" brackets and even less sway control if you put the plastic jackets on.
> With grease, you cut down the sound of the bars when you turn and with the plastic jackets you cut down the mess caused by the grease. I plan to just run without grease until I find I can't stand the noise. It seems to me that a person could try wrapping tape on the bars to cut down on the noise. I think the plastic jackets are kind of a gimmick or I would get them. Rowland


I don't mind the noise - lets me know its working








[/quote]

I think that will be my decision also!
[/quote]
I ordered them while I was paying for the shipping. I can take them off in 1 minute if I don't like them. I'll let you know what I think once I tow with it on Sunday.


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## duggy

Nathan said:


> Ok, installed the new brackets tonight in ~30 minutes:
> 
> First take off the old hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New hardware:
> 
> And torque to specs in same position as old hardware:


I just came upon this thread, and was looking at the pictures Nathan posted. Neither your old setup, or your new setup looks like mine. I got my Equalizer almost exactly one year ago. I'd say it's a transition between the two setups. The mounts on the trailer frame are the same as Nathan's new ones in the bottom picture, but the "L" brackets are the same as the old ones in the top picture. The "L" brackets are secured by two Nylok nuts. I installed them last June, and have never had to tighten them since. I did adjust one "L"bracket when I noticed the spring bar was just rubbing on one edge, instead of across the whole surface. I'd say the new "L" brackets have been modified to give a larger friction surface on the bottom.


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## duggy

I feel a little silly now! I just figured out that what I thought was a wider surface on the "L" brackets, is the plastic jacket. I guess my "L" brackets are the new system. That said, I haven't had any issues with things coming loose.


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## thefulminator

I've been using the jackets for a couple years now. They make a big difference with noise and I've not noticed a major change in sway control. Another thing that has helped with noise for me is to keep the L-Pins from riding the bars. The L-Pins are only there to keep the bars from falling off the L-Brackets. Below is a repost of the image I made a couple years ago of my stretch cords for keeping the L-Pins from binding on the bars.

When I was talking to the rep at Progressive a few weeks ago I told him about the stretch cord idea. He asked for a diagram and has submitted it to their Engineering department. The last time I checked with him he said they found it to be an "interesting" concept that they hadn't thought of before and are looking into it. They are just a piece of 1/4" stretch cord tied into a loop and wrapped around the L-Pin to raise it high enough to not bind on the bars. It's possible you may see them make it into an accessory some day.


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## Nathan

thefulminator said:


> I've been using the jackets for a couple years now. They make a big difference with noise and I've not noticed a major change in sway control. Another thing that has helped with noise for me is to keep the L-Pins from riding the bars. The L-Pins are only there to keep the bars from falling off the L-Brackets. Below is a repost of the image I made a couple years ago of my stretch cords for keeping the L-Pins from binding on the bars.
> 
> When I was talking to the rep at Progressive a few weeks ago I told him about the stretch cord idea. He asked for a diagram and has submitted it to their Engineering department. The last time I checked with him he said they found it to be an "interesting" concept that they hadn't thought of before and are looking into it. They are just a piece of 1/4" stretch cord tied into a loop and wrapped around the L-Pin to raise it high enough to not bind on the bars. It's possible you may see them make it into an accessory some day.


I was hoping that the Bracket jacket being thicker would help this. Perhaps I should implement this solution as well. My last L pins were bending due to the binding.


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## thefulminator

Try it without the stretch cords then try it with some. See if you notice a difference. All you will be out is about $1 for the stretch chord material from a hardware store.


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## rdvholtwood

My L pins are all bent - what size stretch cords did you use? I did purchase a new set of pins and don't want them to get all bent up again.


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