# Trailer Jacks



## aceguy

Hi all,

My 25rss has a cheesy wrench for lowering/raising the jacks. The jacks had 2 tabs on each one and the wrench is this flimsy rod that looks like a socket on one end with 2 cutouts to fit over the tabs.








When I get the jacks down I play hell trying to raise the trailer at all using that cheap wrench.
I am wondering if anyone has found anything else to use on their jacks to make leveling the trailer a little easier. 
Do they make a hex adapter to put on so I can use a socket?

Any suggestions, short of changing the jacks?

Thanks


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## tdvffjohn

They are stabilizers not jacks. You cannot pick up the trailer with them. Level with wood under tires and tongue jack.

John


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## KRKarnes

Cut the head off of wrench and put it in a cordless drill.


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## HootBob

I took a 3/8 spark plug socket and cut the two notches so it fits on snug 
And I took a old (long 3/8 extentsion) and welded the two together
Now I used it with my cordless drill/driver 
Works pretty good

Don


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## 2500Ram

tdvffjohn said:


> They are stabilizers not jacks. You cannot pick up the trailer with them. Level with wood under tires and tongue jack.
> 
> John
> [snapback]81449[/snapback]​


John is 100% correct. Do not try to lift the trailer with the stabilizers.

Bill.


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## CamperAndy

I will add my .02.

*DO NOT LIFT TRAILER WITH STABILIZERS*.

You will damage the stabilizers. Always level the trailer with blocks under the wheels for side to side. Then use the tongue jack for front to back. THEN use the stabilizers to minimize trailer movement. Typical max is 2 turns once contact is made and 1 turn is normal.


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## huntr70

What they said.............

Steve


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## bill_pfaff

I'm with the general thought DON'T DO IT !!!!!!!!

I would consider doing it with the heavier scissor jacks and have thought about replacing the stabilizer jacks on my 25 with the heavier ones but in no way would I do it with the stock jacks.

My 2 cents
Bill


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## aceguy

ok point taken.....

I will just be happy with what I have and level the trailer as others have suggested.

Adapt and over come...









Thanks for the input....I've gained some useful info...thanks


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## Katrina

As mentioned above, you cannot lift the trailer with the jacks.
You can find a socked to fit the jack with a hex bit for a cordless drill.
I got mine at my dealer for about 8 bucks.


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## Camping Fan

bill_pfaff said:


> I'm with the general thought DON'T DO IT !!!!!!!!
> 
> I would consider doing it with the heavier scissor jacks and have thought about replacing the stabilizer jacks on my 25 with the heavier ones but in no way would I do it with the stock jacks.
> 
> My 2 cents
> Bill
> [snapback]81462[/snapback]​


Even with the scissor jacks, they're still just supposed to be stabilizers and shouldn't be used to level the trailer. The jacks are positioned at the corners of the trailers and using them to level the trailer can cause damage to the frame by torquing it. Having a few pieces of 1x4 or 2x4 or some leveling blocks like these or  this brand makes it easy to level from side-to-side by backing/driving the trailer onto them. I have two 10 packs of the Lynx Levelers. They work well under the corner stabilizers too when you're camping on sandy/soft ground.

Deb


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## Oregon_Camper

aceguy said:


> ok point taken.....
> 
> I will just be happy with what I have and level the trailer as others have suggested.
> 
> Adapt and over come...
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> Thanks for the input....I've gained some useful info...thanks
> [snapback]81463[/snapback]​


Not your fault...shame on your dealer for not telling you this.

Glad you found out the easy way vs. the hard way and causing damage to your jack and or trailer.


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## W4DRR

I have always been under the impression that is why the supplied wimpy wrench is so....well.....wimpy. That way, you cannot over torque the stabilizers and actually damage something.

Bob


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## beancounter

Ditto what everyone else has said about using the "jacks" to level the trailer. Don't.

Now, for raising and lowering the stabilizers, one option is the socket genie pictured here. We popuppers have been using them for years.










This attaches to a drill to really simplify things. It comes in other configurations, so if this is not the one you need, simply search the internet for "socket genie" and you will find all of the available configs.

Note that the shaft is round not hex. I believe this is to prevent it from being over-torqued such as might happen if used to lift or level the camper with the jacks.


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## W4DRR

beancounter said:


> Ditto what everyone else has said about using the "jacks" to level the trailer. Don't.
> 
> Now, for raising and lowering the stabilizers, one option is the socket genie pictured here. We popuppers have been using them for years.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> This attaches to a drill to really simplify things. It comes in other configurations, so if this is not the one you need, simply search the internet for "socket genie" and you will find all of the available configs.
> 
> Note that the shaft is round not hex. I believe this is to prevent it from being over-torqued such as might happen if used to lift or level the camper with the jacks.
> [snapback]81626[/snapback]​


Not to hi-jack the thread, but did your drill with the socket genie have enough umphh to lift the camper roof, or did you have to use the "beer-powered" hand crank for that? When we had our Sea Pine, the stabilizers were nothing compared to the energy (and sweat) expended cranking that roof up with that heavy Coleman AC unit on it.


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## Burger

I know you said you don't want to change the stabilizers... But, since I had the scissors type put on mine (four years ago) the TT is rock solid at the camp site (and no, I don't level the TT with them). The cheap stabilizers put on at the factory are just a cost saving factor for them and are not very effective, IMO. I highly recommend the scissor type, just don't over do it when setting up at the camp site.


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## PDX_Doug

W4DRR said:


> did your drill with the socket genie have enough umphh to lift the camper roof, or did you have to use the "beer-powered" hand crank for that? When we had our Sea Pine, the stabilizers were nothing compared to the energy (and sweat) expended cranking that roof up with that heavy Coleman AC unit on it.


What, you did not like the 'exercise feature' Coleman included free of charge with the pop-ups?!









Happy Trails,
Doug


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## W4DRR

PDX_Doug said:


> W4DRR said:
> 
> 
> 
> did your drill with the socket genie have enough umphh to lift the camper roof, or did you have to use the "beer-powered" hand crank for that?Â When we had our Sea Pine, the stabilizers were nothing compared to the energy (and sweat) expended cranking that roof up with that heavy Coleman AC unit on it.Â
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> What, you did not like the 'exercise feature' Coleman included free of charge with the pop-ups?!
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> Happy Trails,
> Doug
> [snapback]81657[/snapback]​
Click to expand...

Maybe there is a marketing opportunity here. Take old re-conditioned Colemans and market them has high-end exercise machines. Get Chuck Norris, or some super model to be the spokesperson.
Crank up that roof! Can you feel it!


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## California Jim

Socket Genie Huh!? Never seen that before. Pretty sweet. I was thinking of ordering another hand wrench and cutting it for use in a drill. That looks like alot less effort. "It's ON"


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## 7heaven

I'm with California Jim, an extra crank and a hack saw...


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## GlenninTexas

Just to add a bit more info to this thread, If you find your entry doors sticking after setting up camp, its likely because one or the other stabilizers have been over-torqued.

Regards, Glenn


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## beancounter

> Not to hi-jack the thread, but did your drill with the socket genie have enough umphh to lift the camper roof, or did you have to use the "beer-powered" hand crank for that? When we had our Sea Pine, the stabilizers were nothing compared to the energy (and sweat) expended cranking that roof up with that heavy Coleman AC unit on it.
> 
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> [snapback]81630[/snapback]​


Hijack in progress...

To give a quick answer, I prefer the "beer-powered" hand crank (reason should be obvious - cheers!







). A drill can do the job if it is at least an 18V with a minimum of 400"/Lb of torque. It is usually the hand/arm holding the drill that is the weak link in the machine!

We now return you to the original discussion...


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## Oregon_Camper

PDX_Doug said:


> W4DRR said:
> 
> 
> 
> did your drill with the socket genie have enough umphh to lift the camper roof, or did you have to use the "beer-powered" hand crank for that? When we had our Sea Pine, the stabilizers were nothing compared to the energy (and sweat) expended cranking that roof up with that heavy Coleman AC unit on it.
> 
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> What, you did not like the 'exercise feature' Coleman included free of charge with the pop-ups?!
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> Happy Trails,
> Doug
> [snapback]81657[/snapback]​
Click to expand...

Not sure why, but I counted every time I cranked the Coleman up.

....68....69....70....71....72....73....BEER!!!!!


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## Thor

7heaven said:


> I'm with California Jim, an extra crank and a hack saw...
> [snapback]81694[/snapback]​


I like the socket - where can you get one?

thor


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## 7heaven

Found them here. Their web site is kind of primative, you may have to call.

Or here.


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## HootBob

7heaven said:


> Found them here. Their web site is kind of primative, you may have to call.
> 
> Or here.
> [snapback]82337[/snapback]​


Nice like
They look pretty good btter than the one I made









Don


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## nynethead

One of the first things my dealer advised during the walk through was that they are stabilizers not levelers. I was going to do a mod buying larger scissor jacks to lift the trailer to level. Then I read on the forum that it wsa a good way to bend the frame and make everything else go off. Now I an looking at blocks for the wheels to level them and use the stabilizers to keep steady. I also put blocks under the stabilzers to limit how far they go down as the dealer also said they we stronger at the top of the crank than the bottom.


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## ee4308

aceguy said:


> ok point taken.....
> 
> I will just be happy with what I have and level the trailer as others have suggested.
> 
> Adapt and over come...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input....I've gained some useful info...thanks
> [snapback]81463[/snapback]​


aceguy,

I had to learn the hard way to.


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## Pastor John

All the same, though, the stabilizer jacks on our 21RS (and seen on other Outbacks) are pretty whimpy and don't do the best job of stabilizing. I crank mine about one turn after contacting the ground, just enough to be snug, and they still allow a bit more lateral movement than I like. I ended up with the BAL chocks that crank between the tires as an additional stabilizer. I bought two of them to help control the movement that occurs while moving around inside the camper. Between the stabilizers, the tongue jack, and the BAL chocks, we get a pretty stable setup.

I have also noticed that sometimes when I am finished cranking down all four stabilizers, that I will have lifted the trailer enough that the tongue jack can use another half-turn to snug up again. That may be a sign that I have put too much pressure on the stabilizers, but that extra half-turn restores the stability.


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## 7heaven

did anyone ever end up buying one of these socket genies?


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## Oregon_Camper

7heaven said:


> did anyone ever end up buying one of these socket genies?


Not me...

I have two crank handles and two boys...you do the math.


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## bentpixel

Last time out I tried this leveling/stabilizing proceedure. I used 2x6's to raise the low side. Placed chocks outside high side wheels and unhitched. (I read where un/hitching with the Deluxe BAL chocks can put stress on the TT.) Lowered the tongue jack barely an inch below level. Lowered rear stablizers to firm contact. Raised the tongue jack to level. Lowered front stablizers to firm contact. Installed Deluxe BAL chocks between tire on both sides. This was the firmest setup for me to date. 
I don't think I'm hurting anything. Am I wrong?

I get a touch of verdigo for the first 20 mins. or so while setting up, if TT isn't solid.
















Scott


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## H2oSprayer

bentpixel said:


> Last time out I tried this leveling/stabilizing proceedure. I used 2x6's to raise the low side. Placed chocks outside high side wheels and unhitched. (I read where un/hitching with the Deluxe BAL chocks can put stress on the TT.) Lowered the tongue jack barely an inch below level. Lowered rear stablizers to firm contact. Raised the tongue jack to level. Lowered front stablizers to firm contact. Installed Deluxe BAL chocks between tire on both sides. This was the firmest setup for me to date.
> I don't think I'm hurting anything. Am I wrong?
> 
> I get a touch of verdigo for the first 20 mins. or so while setting up, if TT isn't solid.
> 
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> Scott


Minus the BAL chocks, I have been doing the same routine that you described since our 2004 was new, and have had no problems. Although, after reading Oregon_Camper's post, I can see a second crank in the near future


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## cookie9933

Concerning the socket-genie thing, here's additional info for anyone interested.

Go to your tool box and get out your six-point deepwell Craftsman sockets and you will find that one of them fits the stock Outback stabilizers very well without slipping. I did this once and I think it was either 1/2-inch or 7/16-inch that fits. You can use as many extensions as you like with a ratchet or breaker-bar, or you can use a speeder handle to turn the socket. If you don't know what a "speeder handle" is, here's a link with a picture: 
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

Bill


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## Herkdoctor

I agree don't buy a special tool with a single use when you can get something that has multiple uses.


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