# New 2008 Outback 23rs Tow Vehicle Question



## rames90 (Feb 28, 2009)

I bought a new 2008 Outback 23RS last week!

I been reviewing a lot of the great info people have posted here and I have a couple of questions that maybe some one could help me out with.

I have a 2003 Yukon 4x4 not XL, towing capacity of 7400 lbs, max touge weight of 1000 lbs, with Auto Ride, GCWR 13,000 lbs
I also have a 2002 Sierra 4x4 ext cab, towing capacity of 7800 lbs, max touge weight of 1000 lbs, GCWR 13,000 lbs

GM recommends equalizer bars and sway control so I have already arranged for that and an electronic brake control

My questions are: 1) The wheelbase on the Yukon is quite a bit less than on the Sierra, wil this be an issue for pulling a 23' trailer? 2) The Sierra can pull a bit more trailer (400 lbs more) and I think with the truck and trailer loaded up I will be near the 7000 lb mark, should I pull with the Sierra or does the 400 lb difference in towing capacity not really make much difference?

I would very much prefer to go camping with the Yukon because of the much larger interior than the Sierra but I'm unsure if these 2 items are that important.

Does anyone have experience with these issues?


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## cabullydogs (Jul 12, 2008)

Congratulations on the new trailer and welcome to the site! Either vehicle should be able to safely tow your new trailer, but a longer wheelbase tow vehicle will usually yield the better towing experience. However, it is certainly understandable that you want to use the SUV as opposed to the truck, for the extra passenger space. I guess it comes down to where you are going and whether or not you are bringing a lot of gear or if you are bringing several people.

Absolutely go with a quality weight distributing hitch/setup in either circumstance.


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## mike (Dec 17, 2006)

Congrats on ur new tv, We have a 23 rs and pulled it 14000 miles in two years with a dodge durango. It pulled it pretty good. Yes, I did feel it there and had to put the pedal to the floor on occasion through some mountains. I highly recommend a good sway, wt dist. We have the equalizer. One of the reasons we upgraded is that we do alot of miles and it is diffinitely a better ride. It also has alot more room and we will on occasion push the miles to get to our destination. We are planning a 8000 mile trip this year. I think with either veh u should be fine. One other thing to think about is that one time we were in a hurry and just through stuff into the tt. This threw the balance off a little and made it sway a little, enough to learn that how u pack is also impt.

Also what part of the country are u from, the people on this site like to get everyone out camping.


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## Paul (May 14, 2008)

I have a 23RS and first towed it with my 02 Chevy 2500 HD 4X4. With the TT fully loaded and four adults in the truck with all their stuff the Chevy worked pretty hard. I went from Northern WI to extreme South TX and we averaged about 9 MPG. When the tanks are full and you are loaded with supplies and stuff to have fun the 23RS can get heavy. Get a good hitch, load the trailer evenly and you should be OK. MIKE is a STUD for towing a 23RS with a Durango for two years. When the truck prices dropped I jumped on a great deal on a F250 6.4 diesel 4X4. Now I can tow any Outback made







, Maybe in a few years I will step up to a 5ER







.


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## mike (Dec 17, 2006)

My durango did have the 5.9l which helped and as I have said in other posts I did not feel unsafe. Its just nicer to have a more powerful and comfortable tv to do our long trips with.


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## MJRey (Jan 21, 2005)

I think either one will do just fine with a good hitch and brake controller. The longer wheelbase is generally better but with the 23RS it probably isn't an issue to pick one over the other. I've read here that some people have had issues with the GM factory receiver hitch so you might want to read up on those issues. I know you said that the Yukon/SUV might be better because of the interior space but having gone from an SUV to a pickup I really like being able to put all of our camping gear in the back of the pickup. I find it far easier to load and unload than what I used to do with the SUV. You can probably try both vehicles and see which one works best for you. Good luck and enjoy your new trailer.


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## rames90 (Feb 28, 2009)

Thanks for all of the replies!

To answer your question Mike, I'm from Calgary (western Canada).

Sounds like this TV and TT is not an uncommon set-up set-up so I should probably be OK with the Yukon. (Iguess if the tranny goes I can switch to the Sierra







) I think if after the first time out I feel there is to much sway maybe I'll add a second sway control arm if I can't adjust the first one enough.

I was reading a lot of other posts yesterday and I like the idea of video taping the initial walkthrough on how everything works! While I ask a million questions maybe the wife can hold the camera!

Seems to be some leaking issues with a few trailers, I'm going to read that 7 year warranty brochre again and check if all of that type of repair/damage would be covered. I initially turned the warranty down but was assured until I take delivery in April I can still purchase it.

This form sure is a great source of info! Especially for a guy with his first RV like me!


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## kycamper (Jun 1, 2008)

rames90 said:


> I bought a new 2008 Outback 23RS last week!
> 
> I been reviewing a lot of the great info people have posted here and I have a couple of questions that maybe some one could help me out with.
> 
> ...


You could also consider a Hensley or Pro-pride hitch and you would not have to worry about the sway issue-just my 2 cents, I know some folks feel you do not need a pivot point projection hitch, but it sure makes my towing a much calmer feel


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## TitanFlyer (Feb 5, 2009)

rames90 said:


> Seems to be some leaking issues with a few trailers, I'm going to read that 7 year warranty brochre again and check if all of that type of repair/damage would be covered. I initially turned the warranty down but was assured until I take delivery in April I can still purchase it.
> 
> This form sure is a great source of info! Especially for a guy with his first RV like me!


I bought the 7 year warranty, and its my understanding that it won't cover leaks. Check into it, but they consider that type of thing upkeep and maintenance, and they are not responsible for that, which I understand to a point. Its been pouring here in Charlotte NC for about 3 days, so I am going to run over and check out my trailer to see if its leaking.

Congrats on the new TT!!!! I have been doing nothing but planning and spending money like crazy to get it ready with all the stuff you need and alot of what you don't need... its exciting.

James


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## rames90 (Feb 28, 2009)

I'm just doing the same thing TitanFlyer, trying to figure out everything I'll need when I'm out camping, I sure am looking forward to my first trip out on May 1!

I checked the Warranty brochure from the dealership and it says nothing about leaking or water damage, but it seems to cover everything else. I guess leaking isn't covered, and as I recall the warranty was over $2,000, so I think I'll probably pass.

I'm pretty handy so I should be able to do almost any repair that doesn't require highly specialized tools. (If I can build hardwood furniture from rough lumber I should be able to maintain my RV! If not I guess it'll cost me.)









Now I'm into researching Inverter/Solar Panel set ups for dry camping. With one of these I should be able to go deeper into the mountains and still be able to placate 3 yr old son with Disney movies.


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## Rob_G (Feb 16, 2006)

rames90 said:


> I checked the Warranty brochure from the dealership and it says nothing about leaking or water damage, but it seems to cover everything else. I guess leaking isn't covered, and as I recall the warranty was over $2,000, so I think I'll probably pass.


The warranty will not cover the damage, but it should cover bad seals or whatever else breaks. All damage should be covered by your insurance coverage so make sure you choose wisely on that! I learned this the hard way with my '06 Keystone Zeppelin Z291 when the slide leaked and the trailer turned into a petri dish over the winter. ICK!

Thank goodness my dealer is AWESOME and gave me a new '08 Outback even swap!


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## TitanFlyer (Feb 5, 2009)

rames90 said:


> I checked the Warranty brochure from the dealership and it says nothing about leaking or water damage, but it seems to cover everything else. I guess leaking isn't covered, and as I recall the warranty was over $2,000, so I think I'll probably pass.


Unless its a totally different warranty company, you are being given the high end of the spectrum on price. I paid 1100 dollars for my 7 year warranty, and I have seen people on here say it cost them less than I paid. I don't have the paperwork on it yet and the name of the company escapes my constantly shrinking memory. When I get it I will send you a PM to use as ammo if you are interested. I wouldn't have bought it at 2K dollars for sure, but for 1100, I figured it was a good resale proposition.

James


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## TitanFlyer (Feb 5, 2009)

Rob_G said:


> The warranty will not cover the damage, but it should cover bad seals or whatever else breaks. All damage should be covered by your insurance coverage so make sure you choose wisely on that! I learned this the hard way with my '06 Keystone Zeppelin Z291 when the slide leaked and the trailer turned into a petri dish over the winter. ICK!
> 
> Thank goodness my dealer is AWESOME and gave me a new '08 Outback even swap!











Every time you post you cost me money... 300+ for a cover.. thanks man.

james


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## rames90 (Feb 28, 2009)

The warranty is called SAL Protection Plan backed by Industrial Alliance Pacific General Insurance Corp. Their address is in Vancouver BC Canada.

So may be a different company, plus mine will be in Canadain $$


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## rames90 (Feb 28, 2009)

I did some research on the dealer-offered 7 yr extended warranty. Here are some excerpt of what is not covered (in the Canadian version anyway):

"...any repair or replacement due to Wind Noise, Squeeks, Rattles and Water Leaks. Loosening of external Fastners and Connectors."

"...any of the following repairs or replacements: squeeking of floors, &#8230; bowed walls or ceilings&#8230;
Any deficiency in&#8230;siding, roofing, windows, doors&#8230; glazing, delamination"

"Any repair or replacement to &#8230; sealants, caulking, washers, grouting and gluing compounds.

"seepage of any seals or gaskets"

Apparently does not cover leaking in any way shape or form. I will definately pass on the warranty.


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## TitanFlyer (Feb 5, 2009)

rames90 said:


> I did some research on the dealer-offered 7 yr extended warranty. Here are some excerpt of what is not covered (in the Canadian version anyway):
> 
> "...any repair or replacement due to Wind Noise, Squeeks, Rattles and Water Leaks. Loosening of external Fastners and Connectors."
> 
> ...


It was explained to me that there is no such thing as an extended warranty, thats just the name. Its really a service agreement for the trailer. Its really meant to cover the systems. For 2K canadian pesos I would pass too (I am an ex-canadian myself from Kingston Ontario). The nice part for me was that if for the life of the 7 year "service agreement" I always take it back to the dealer I bought it from there is no deductible. Doesn't help me on the road, but most stuff can wait till i get back.

James


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## Nathan (Jan 2, 2007)

rames90 said:


> ...Sounds like this TV and TT is not an uncommon set-up set-up so I should probably be OK with the Yukon. (Iguess if the tranny goes I can switch to the Sierra
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Most here would recommend the Equal-I-Zer or the Reese Dual Cam (or Straight Line) WDH. Both have built in sway control that is far superior to the friction bars. Even if you feel the fricition bar will work, you should remove or loosen those prior to backing up, and that is not a restriction for the better systems.

Congrats on the new OB!


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## cabullydogs (Jul 12, 2008)

I will second the vote for the Reese Dual-cam. We worked it into the deal we got on our trailer last year and am quite pleased with the ease of use/construction/effectiveness


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## bbwb (Apr 4, 2008)

My turn to chime in...we have an '08 23rs that we picked up almost a year ago. Our tow vehicle is an '06 GMC Sierra with the high output aluminum block engine, z71, extended cab. The truck came with 3.42 gears. We went and picked up the camper and brought it home...not a fun time. I was okay on the flats but when I started to go up hills...lets just say I was shocked. The truck STRUGGLED to climb any type of grade (loaded semi's were passing me). The truck returned a wonderful 7 mpg while trying to maintain 60 mph. 
After I got it home, the first thing I did was bring the truck in to get the gears changed to 4.10 ratio. This made a horrible towing experience tolerable. I can now maintain speed and climb hills with less effort. Sometimes if I am towing and have a head wind, I'll still work the truck. The gear change gave me another 1,000 lbs towing capacity.

I was talked into the friction type sway control...I would stick with the recommendations made above on the Equalizer or Reese Dual Cams. I get some wiggle from the trailer in a cross wind or a passing semi.

I certainly would not go any larger on the trailer with a 1/2 ton. Don't know what gears you have or the terrain that you will encounter, but think that you are at the limit. The Sierra is my vote, the Tahoe I think will be knocked around.

bbwb


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## Collinsfam_WY (Nov 9, 2006)

bbwb said:


> My turn to chime in...we have an '08 23rs that we picked up almost a year ago. Our tow vehicle is an '06 GMC Sierra with the high output aluminum block engine, z71, extended cab. The truck came with 3.42 gears. We went and picked up the camper and brought it home...not a fun time. I was okay on the flats but when I started to go up hills...lets just say I was shocked. The truck STRUGGLED to climb any type of grade (loaded semi's were passing me). The truck returned a wonderful 7 mpg while trying to maintain 60 mph.
> After I got it home, the first thing I did was bring the truck in to get the gears changed to 4.10 ratio. This made a horrible towing experience tolerable. I can now maintain speed and climb hills with less effort. Sometimes if I am towing and have a head wind, I'll still work the truck. The gear change gave me another 1,000 lbs towing capacity.
> 
> I was talked into the friction type sway control...I would stick with the recommendations made above on the Equalizer or Reese Dual Cams. I get some wiggle from the trailer in a cross wind or a passing semi.
> ...


This was my experience with my F150 and the 3.55's and bbwb has alot more power with his hi-po chevy small block than I do with my 5.4. Torque is closer. Gears make a big difference. If you can get 4.10's - do it and you will be very glad you did.

-CC


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## rames90 (Feb 28, 2009)

We picked up the new '08 23 RS last weekend!

The Yukon struggled quite a bit towing it up the hills on the highway. Down to 80 km/hr on relatively small hills. I'm going to look into changing the rear end gearing from 3.73 to 4.10. It's got to be very hard on the truck (and my wallet) to run at 4500 rpm in what appears to be second gear to keep above 80 kph.

Or maybe I'll price out a used Ford F250 or F350... I've still got an '02 Sierra Z71 to trade in....

We live very close to the Rocky mountains where I'll be camping most often and the Yukon won't cut it as is.


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